Secret compost heap

Most summer residents When laying compost heaps, they make do with only grass and weeded weeds. IN hot weather the greens “light up” so much from decomposition that the pile literally melts before our eyes.

This generates a lot of heat. It happens that plant debris, without having time to undergo complete decay, dries out in places. There is little compost produced and it is of poor quality. In cool weather, decomposition slows down. The heap of new portions of grass increases in volume, which pleases the gardener. But liquid oozes from the side of it, spreading bad smell. In this case, compost is not formed at all, but a real silage product of lactic acid fermentation is obtained.

To avoid these and other mistakes when composting raw plant waste, you need to layer it with soil. Let's say we weeded a garden bed, threw the weeds into a compost heap, and more or less evenly crushed several shovels of ordinary garden soil on top. If the soil partially falls through the weeds, that's even better. It will more fully absorb plant juices and rain moisture. And the grass, even when it burns from decay, will not dry out. In addition, the soil will create pockets of organic matter decomposition in the compost heap, which is what is required for compost production. Among other things, microorganisms contained in the soil will suppress lactic acid fermentation that may occur.

All this is good, but where to get the soil, the gardener will ask. After all, weeding, and therefore replenishment of the compost heap, continues all summer. But there is no free land, the beds are all occupied. But weeds grow not only in the beds, but also in the furrows. I usually walk along the furrows with a hoe and scrape off all the weeds. This is what I layer together with the soil on top of the organic matter in the compost heap. And on rainy days, I prepare sod and layer part of it on the same compost pile. And when there is neither one nor the other, I give it the usual estimate. You can always find a way out.

All organic residues should go to the compost heap: and potato peelings, and cabbage stalks, and cut raspberry stems, and apple carrion, and weeds. But at the same time, we must strive, if possible, to alternate between dry and wet, small and large. This is how we create good conditions for rotting. Now it will go intensely, but not as quickly as the cut grass “burns” in dry, hot weather. The result is high-quality compost.

It is in it, in the pile, and not somewhere else that all the slop should be poured. For what? As already mentioned, the compost heap dries out as a result of smoldering, and there is not enough rain for it even in the most inclement weather. In addition, slops contain fats, proteins and carbohydrates, which themselves, in turn, serve as food for microorganisms. And lastly, so you the best way dispose of watery waste. There are always flies near the garbage dumps, unsanitary conditions, but in the compost heap there are no flies or bad smell. And all kinds of pathogens that get into it along with the slops quickly die as a result of the self-healing of the contents of the heap.

You just need to follow one very simple rule - sprinkle earth on everything that rots on the surface of the heap.

Instead of soil, you can use sawdust and peat. But we shouldn’t forget about the land either. The blacker the soil, the more fertile, the more it heals the contents of the heap, the faster it contributes to the rotting and maturation of the compost.

How to make your own compost pile

A do-it-yourself compost heap is not a myth, it is a completely objective reality that any summer resident can implement. The key to success is to take the advice of experienced gardeners.

Proper compost heap: preparing humus
Of course, compost is the garden's breadwinner. The place for it must be determined immediately as soon as you become the owner land plot. Experienced gardeners say this: “Show me your compost and I’ll tell you what kind of gardener you are.”

Correctly, a compost heap is prepared as follows: every time you add waste from the garden, kitchen and vegetable garden, after a year or two it all turns into a homogeneous black mass - humus. Preparing humus is preparing food for your garden.

A compost heap at the dacha can be compared to a stomach or a living reactor in which vitality, performing the digestion and transformation of raw organic materials into the final composting product - ripe humus.

Place for compost at the dacha
The development and planning of the future garden begins with choosing a place for compost at the dacha, the so-called compost yard.
The compost yard should be located in a well-drained area and under no circumstances in a damp, low, or poorly ventilated area. The place for the compost heap should be warm, protected from cold and drying winds, but not in the open sun.


The compost heap should be located on soil cleared of turf and well loosened to a depth of 15-30 cm. The soil beneath the compost heap is home to earthworms and other organisms involved in the composting process. This is in highest degree living earth. When you take out all the compost to fertilize your garden, earthworms and other organisms remain in this soil and, when laying a new heap in this place, take an active part in its decomposition.

When the heap freezes or dries out, the earthworms go down into the ground and wait out the unfavorable period there. In other words, the soil under the compost heap plays the same role in the composting process as yeast does in baking bread. If a compost heap is laid on dead soil, then it will take quite a long period for the necessary flora and fauna to settle and reproduce in it, without which compost will not form.

Proper compost: three piles
Proper compost is usually three heaps. One is formed during the laying process, the other is ripening and the third is for use. Regarding the size of the compost heap, most authors are quite unanimous: the width of each is 1.5 m, the height is 1.0-1.2 m, the length depends on the size of the area being fertilized. Typically, a compost heap 3-4 m long is sufficient for 100 m2 of garden.

Specified minimum dimensions, below this limit the heap cannot be created the necessary conditions: The temperature will not be high enough or the pile will dry out too quickly.

How to Make a Compost Heap: Basic Principles
There are many methods for making compost, but the basic principles are always the same. The decomposition is better and more complete, the more diverse the organic materials that are placed in layers in a heap. If you make a pile from just one material, such as hay or grass clippings, the composting process will not work. The pile must combine carbon-rich plant debris with nitrogen-rich materials such as manure and bone meal. Before making a compost heap, you can add some previously made compost or just fertile land as a seed.

Soil is a necessary component of a compost heap. It may even be infertile, but it must be clay or loamy soil, which represents the source material for the formation of humus organomineral complexes.

Compost heap construction: alternating layers
Before you properly make a compost heap, remember that the layers in it must alternate. Alternating layers of compost at the dacha is done in the following order: green plants - layer thickness 15-20 cm; nitrogen-rich substances - manure, bone meal - thickness 5 cm; lime, phosphorite, ash are sprinkled on top, and then there is a layer of earth 2 cm thick. The layers are laid in this sequence until the pile reaches the desired height, then it is covered with earth, and on top, to protect it from drying out, with grass, hay, leaves or whatever - similar. You need to make sure that no weeds grow on the compost heap.

Ultimately, the pile will consist of 70% plant debris, 10% soil and 20% manure.

How to start a compost heap at your dacha
Before you start a compost heap at your dacha, you need to remember that millions will live in it. different organisms, and they are in equally you need water and air. This means: the pile should not be too dense and waterlogged, but it should also not be too loose and dry.


When laying a heap, thick sticks are inserted into it at certain distances, which are then removed, leaving in their place holes that serve for ventilation and for watering if necessary. A small trough-shaped depression is made on the surface of the heap to improve the absorption of rainwater. The side walls of the heap are made not vertical, but slightly inclined, so that the heap gradually narrows upward, and in cross section it looks like a trapezoid.

When the heap is ready and covered, decomposition processes begin to take place intensively in it, and it becomes very hot. The temperature inside the heap can rise to 50-60 °C. Then the temperature gradually decreases, but remains slightly higher environment. This does not happen in very small compost piles. The pile does not heat up if the composting material accumulates slowly and the pile does not immediately reach its final size. Without heating, composting is slower but still produces good compost.

How to Make a Compost Heap Using Organic Materials
If you don't know how to start a compost pile, just remember that all decomposing organic materials are suitable for making proper compost.



These can be branches of trees and shrubs, wood chips, sawdust, paper (including newspapers, but without color printing). Also, shavings, plant remains, and weeded weeds with roots are placed in the compost heap. And of course, hay, straw, plant stems, tree leaves, kitchen waste, manure, and turf are suitable for proper compost.

It is necessary to ensure that synthetic products do not end up in the compost. polymer materials, non-degradable, including plastic bags. The maintenance of toilets is not used mainly due to the fear of the spread of worms. However, it is not forbidden to water compost heaps with urine diluted 4 times. Urine is an excellent nitrogen fertilizer, and in English literature it is delicately called "night house fertilizer."

It is not recommended to use seeded weed plants for composting to prevent the compost from becoming a breeding ground for weeds, and potato tops, sick with late blight, as well as vegetable remains infected with fungal diseases, such as false powdery mildew, since the resting spores of the causative agents of these diseases retain their vital activity in the compost. It is better to burn all diseased plants and use them as ash.

The compost pile should not consist only of raw materials. There should be 4-5 times more dry material in the pile than wet material. Providing air access to the pile is enough difficult task, however, the speed of compost maturation depends on its implementation. Those who can do this periodically mix and turn the compost with a pitchfork.

How to prepare a compost heap: maturation speed
Before preparing a compost heap, you need to know about the speed of its maturation and correctly calculate the time for laying and using compost. The rate of ripening of the compost heap also depends on the air temperature. In summer, this process goes much faster and takes place in 4-6 months; in winter, microbiological activity almost completely dies out. Maturation also depends on whether you turn your compost, which is quite labor-intensive.

Ripe compost is a homogeneous crumbly material of dark brown color with a fresh smell of forest soil. It usually takes one to one and a half years for compost to mature, but there are methods quick receipt compost.

Using mature compost
Compost is not just a storehouse of nutrients for plants, it is a concentrate of soil life. In order for him to keep his vital properties, it should be embedded in the topmost layer of soil 7-10 cm deep, where there is access to air. Microorganisms from the compost spread throughout the entire thickness of the soil, revitalizing it and stimulating the processes of releasing nutrients for plants. Most of The roots of plants are concentrated in the upper layer, and it is there that the compost forms a supply of nutrients. Compost is spread over the surface of the soil and worked in with a rake, hoe or cultivator.

How to use unripe compost?
You can add incompletely prepared compost to the soil so that the last stage of its maturation takes place in the soil. This is usually done in the fall. This method of application is recommended for very light or very heavy soils, in which the vital activity of soil microorganisms is thus stimulated. With semi-decomposed compost, you can simply cover the soil surface in the fall with a layer 3-4 cm thick. This is especially recommended for berry bushes and tree trunk circles fruit trees, root system which is very close to the surface. The compost is covered with a thick layer of grass or leaves on top to protect the soil from freezing and create conditions for the life of soil organisms.

Compost from fallen leaves
Compost from fallen leaves is prepared separately, since they are decomposed by a completely different microflora than other plant debris, mainly microscopic fungi. Burning leaves is a waste of valuable organic fertilizer. The ash of the leaves contains very few mineral elements: most of them move to the branches before the leaves fall and are stored there until next year. But the leaves are rich in hard-to-decompose organic substances - hemicellulose and tannins (oak, beech).

Therefore, it takes about two years for the leaves to decompose and turn them into compost, and three years for chestnut leaves. Leaf compost provides a stable source of soil humus that provides no nutrients to plants but improves soil structure and water-holding capacity. For composting, the leaves are collected in wire containers, crushed tightly, moistened and left for two years. Leaf compost is especially useful on light sandy and heavy clay soils. It is covered with regular compost and lime. Leaf compost can easily replace peat.

7 Ingredients You Should Never Put in Compost

Composting is an amazing process. Thanks to it, the amount of waste in landfills is reduced, and our gardens receive plant nutrition.

But not everything can and should end up in the compost heap. For example, some seemingly ideal biodegradable materials may contain many tiny particles of plastic or heavy metals, which have no place in compost - because they do not decompose in the soil. Test yourself: We'll look at 7 ingredients you should never compost - and 7 successful composting materials.

1. Pet feces

Use instead

But pet hair can be composted. The only condition: do not put combed wool into the compost if you have treated your pet before special compounds from fleas or ticks.

2. Air purifier filters

Filters used in systems exhaust ventilation(for example, in the kitchen), usually accumulate tiny particles of synthetics (particularly from the fibers of our clothes), which do not decompose in the soil. Add to this the fact that many popular antistatic agents, fabric softeners, detergents contain toxic chemical substances- phthalates used in the creation of synthetic fragrances. Then you will understand why all this belongs only in the trash can.

Use instead

What do you do with wilted leaves? indoor plants? Before they dry out completely, throw them into the compost for an extra dose of nitrogen. The remaining shoots, leaves and wilted flowers after trimming houseplants are ideal for the compost heap.

3. Fatty and oily products

By adding high-fat foods to your compost, you are literally inviting four-legged guests to visit your compost pile. While these substances won't cause any harm in trace amounts, it's worth considering that they decompose very slowly in the soil - which is another reason to keep them away from compost.

Use instead

You should also refrain from using dairy and meat products in compost, but eggshells and vegetarian table scraps definitely need to be composted. Just bury them so as not to attract animals to the location of the compost pile.

4. Contents of dust containers

Household dust may seem completely innocent. However, studies have shown that it contains harmful pesticides - particles of pesticides, fire retardants and phthalates. Their sources are Appliances and furniture, air fresheners and other artificial fragrances.

Use instead

While adding the contents of your dust bin to your compost after cleaning your home is a bad idea, composting your garden waste is a good idea! All types of leaves enrich the compost. To prevent them from sticking together, making decomposition difficult, chop them up with a lawn mower before adding them to the pile.

5. Pieces of drywall

At first glance, drywall may seem like a suitable dry material to add to your compost pile. But that's not true! This construction material can be literally saturated with toxins, since its production often uses waste from coal-fired power plants. Those who need additional arguments may recall the recent scandal surrounding Chinese drywall.

Use instead

You can use sawdust in compost only in moderation as it decomposes slowly and locks in nitrogen. Never use sawdust from painted or otherwise treated wood.

6. Some types of weeds

Do not compost weeds that have formed seeds, or those plants in which pieces of rhizomes or stems take root easily - for example, field bindweed. Also avoid weeds that are extremely drought-resistant, as they often have enough moisture in their leaves to survive even after being pulled out of the ground and tossed onto the compost heap. Such plants can take root in compost and spread with it.

Use instead

Most weeds can be composted before seeding. Drought-resistant plants should first be kept in the sun for several days so that they completely wither and are unable to take root. Weeds that spread by rapidly growing rhizomes (e.g. horsetail), it is better not to use in compost at all. As a last resort, put them in garbage bags, cover them and leave them in the sun for a few days. When the roots finally die and begin to rot, they can be safely added to the compost heap.

7. Glossy paper

Paper, especially glossy paper with colored pictures and text, may contain heavy metals. It's better to recycle paper than toss it in the compost.

Use instead

You can add cardboard to your compost pile after shredding it. Just don't use cardboard that has colored ink on it. And you also need to understand that cardboard packaging is often treated with insecticides to get rid of pests. Therefore, many people also prefer to recycle cardboard to protect themselves.

Many people believe that preparing compost is a simple matter: put branches, leaves and other organic waste in a box or pile, cover it and wait for it to ripen. Simple, but not quite.

Properly prepared compost will help the soil restore vitality and increase fertility, and improve its structure. In practice, every farmer knows exactly how to make compost and prepares it according to his own - the only correct - recipe. In fact, there are a great variety of them, they include various ingredients, additives, and preparations. aerobically and anaerobically. It is impossible to describe each in detail in one article, so we will focus on the basic methods, time-tested and tested by thousands of farmers. I foresee the question: why make compost at home, because now you can buy it? Of course you can. Only if you are confident in the integrity of the manufacturer. Otherwise, you may not help the earth, but harm it. Only by preparing the right compost with your own hands can you be 100% sure that this is “garden gold”.

What you can and cannot put in compost

Can:

• Mowed grass
• Fallen leaves
• Animal manure and bird droppings
• Spilled tea and coffee
• Eggshells that have not undergone heat treatment
• Raw vegetable and fruit trimmings
• Thin branches
• Paper, feathers, natural fabrics (shredded)
• Straw, sawdust, shavings, seed husks

It is forbidden:

• Vegetables and fruits after heat treatment
• Diseased plants
• Perennial and seeded weeds
• Synthetic fabrics and materials
• Citrus peel

Organic waste can be divided into groups:

• Nitrogenous

These include manure, bird droppings, grass, raw vegetable and fruit waste.

• Carbon

These are straw, leaves, sawdust, grass, paper, cardboard.

Compost - how to prepare

Place branch cuttings and wood chips at the bottom of the container - they will act as drainage.

Do I need to mix the compost?

Yes need. The entire mass is enriched with oxygen, the layers are mixed, and decomposition occurs faster. In addition, it is easier to control the degree of moisture in the compost mass. The more often you do this, the sooner you will get mature compost.

How to tell when compost is ripe

The compost mass should be crumbly, moist, and dark in color. And most importantly, such compost should smell like forest soil.

When is the best time to compost?

There are no strict limits here: you can lay layers of organic matter from the very spring, as they become available. In the fall, harvested tops and fallen leaves are added to the compost.

Didn't have time to start a compost pile, and it's already winter? No problem! Advances in science allow us to make compost in winter. Personal experience no, but, according to the manufacturers of EM preparations, ready-made compost can be obtained in 2 months.

To prepare quick compost, you will need food waste, soil (10% of the waste volume) and an EM solution - Tamir, Urgasa, Baikal M1. In a hermetically sealed container we place a handful of waste, a portion of the earth corresponding in volume, moisten it with an EM solution and close it. And so on until the container is full. The number of containers is not limited and directly depends on the amount of food waste you have) The smaller the organic particles, the faster the decomposition process. The container must be located in a room with a temperature of at least 15°C. If all conditions are met, EM compost is ready after 2 months. Naturally, the use of EM preparations allows not only to obtain compost quickly at any time of the year (except winter), but also to significantly improve its nutritional properties. Friends, the conclusion suggests itself: make compost and you will have a rich harvest!

We sowed or planted most of the plants in the spring and it seems that in the middle of summer we can already relax. But experienced gardeners They know that July is the time to plant vegetables to obtain a late harvest and the possibility of longer storage. This also applies to potatoes. It is better to use the early summer potato harvest quickly; it is not suitable for long-term storage. But the second harvest of potatoes is exactly what is needed for winter and spring use.

Astrakhan tomatoes ripen remarkably well lying on the ground, but this experience should not be repeated in the Moscow region. Our tomatoes need support, support, garter. My neighbors use all sorts of stakes, tie-downs, loops, ready-made plant supports and mesh fencing. Each method of fixing a plant in a vertical position has its own advantages and “ side effects" I'll tell you how I place tomato bushes on trellises and what comes out of it.

Bulgur with pumpkin is an every day dish that can be easily prepared in half an hour. Bulgur is boiled separately, the cooking time depends on the size of the grains - whole and coarse grinding takes about 20 minutes, fine grinding literally a few minutes, sometimes the cereal is simply poured with boiling water, like couscous. While the cereal is cooking, prepare the pumpkin in sour cream sauce, and then combine the ingredients. If you replace melted butter vegetable, and sour cream - soy cream, then it can be included in the Lenten menu.

Flies are a sign of unsanitary conditions and carriers of infectious diseases that are dangerous to both people and animals. People are constantly looking for ways to get rid of unpleasant insects. In this article we will talk about the Zlobny TED brand, which specializes in fly repellents and knows a lot about them. The manufacturer has developed a specialized line of products to get rid of flying insects anywhere quickly, safely and at no extra cost.

The summer months are the time for hydrangeas to bloom. This beautiful deciduous shrub produces luxuriously fragrant flowers from June to September. Florists readily use large inflorescences for wedding decorations and bouquets. To admire the beauty flowering bush hydrangeas in your garden, you should take care of the proper conditions for it. Unfortunately, some hydrangeas do not bloom year after year, despite the care and efforts of gardeners. We will explain why this happens in the article.

Every summer resident knows that plants need nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium for full development. These are three main macronutrients, the deficiency of which significantly affects the appearance and yield of plants, and in advanced cases can lead to their death. But not everyone understands the importance of other macro- and microelements for plant health. And they are important not only in themselves, but also for the effective absorption of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

Garden strawberries, or strawberry, as we used to call it, is one of the early aromatic berries that summer generously gifts us with. How happy we are about this harvest! In order for the “berry boom” to repeat every year, we need to take care of the berry bushes in the summer (after the end of fruiting). The laying of flower buds, from which ovaries will form in the spring and berries in the summer, begins approximately 30 days after the end of fruiting.

Spicy pickled watermelon is a savory appetizer for fatty meat. Watermelons and watermelon rinds have been pickled since time immemorial, but this process is labor-intensive and time-consuming. According to my recipe, you can simply prepare pickled watermelon in 10 minutes, and by the evening the spicy appetizer will be ready. Watermelon marinated with spices and chili can be stored in the refrigerator for several days. Be sure to keep the jar in the refrigerator, not only for the sake of safety - when chilled, this snack is simply licking your fingers!

Among the variety of species and hybrids of philodendrons, there are many plants, both gigantic and compact. But not a single species competes in unpretentiousness with the main modest one - the blushing philodendron. True, his modesty does not concern the appearance of the plant. Blushing stems and cuttings, huge leaves, long shoots, forming, although very large, but also a strikingly elegant silhouette, look very elegant. Philodendron blushing requires only one thing - at least minimal care.

Thick chickpea soup with vegetables and egg is a simple recipe for a hearty first course, inspired by oriental cuisine. Similar thick soups are prepared in India, Morocco, and other countries South-East Asia. The tone is set by spices and seasonings - garlic, chili, ginger and a bouquet of spicy spices, which can be assembled to your taste. It is better to fry vegetables and spices in clarified butter (ghee) or mix olive oil and butter, it's certainly not the same, but it tastes similar.

Plum - well, who isn’t familiar with it?! She is loved by many gardeners. And all because it has an impressive list of varieties, surprises with excellent yields, pleases with its diversity in terms of ripening and a huge selection of color, shape and taste of fruits. Yes, in some places it feels better, in others it feels worse, but almost no summer resident gives up the pleasure of growing it on his plot. Today it can be found not only in the south, in the middle zone, but also in the Urals and Siberia.

Many decorative and fruit crops, except for drought-resistant ones, suffer from the scorching sun, and conifers in the winter-spring period - from sun rays, enhanced by reflection from the snow. In this article we will tell you about a unique preparation for protecting plants from sunburn and drought - Sunshet Agrosuccess. The problem is relevant for most regions of Russia. In February and early March, the sun's rays become more active, and the plants are not yet ready for new conditions.

“Every vegetable has its time,” and every plant has its optimal time for landing. Anyone who has dealt with planting is well aware that the hot season for planting is spring and autumn. This is due to several factors: in the spring the plants have not yet begun to grow rapidly, there is no sweltering heat and precipitation often falls. However, no matter how hard we try, circumstances often develop such that planting has to be carried out in the midst of summer.

Chili con carne translated from Spanish- chili with meat. This is a Texas and Mexican dish whose main ingredients are chili peppers and shredded beef. In addition to the main products there are onions, carrots, tomatoes, and beans. This red lentil chili recipe is delicious! The dish is fiery, scalding, very filling and amazingly tasty! You can make a big pot, put it in containers and freeze - you'll have a delicious dinner for a whole week.

Cucumber is one of the most favorite garden crops of our summer residents. However, not all and not always gardeners manage to really get good harvest. And although growing cucumbers requires regular attention and care, there is a little secret that will significantly increase their yield. We are talking about pinching cucumbers. Why, how and when to pinch cucumbers, we will tell you in the article. An important point agricultural technology of cucumbers is their formation, or type of growth.

is a simple, low-cost method of converting organic materials into a mixture to improve soil quality. When you have your own plot and there is enough space on it to accommodate a compost yard, why not take advantage of this opportunity?

This article talks about the benefits of composting, what composting does, what waste can and cannot be composted, how composting should be done, how to use ready-made compost, what problems may arise during the composting process and how they can be solved. The reader may also be interested in information about how a composting dry toilet works, which can be found.

Composting speeds up natural decomposition processes and returns organic materials to the soil. Through composting, organic waste such as wood scraps, sawdust, fallen leaves, many types kitchen waste are converted into a dark brown, crumbly mixture that can be used to improve soil quality and reduce the need for fertilizers and water. Why throw something away if you can use it for your garden?

There are two types of composting: anaerobic (decomposition occurs in the absence of oxygen) and aerobic (decomposition occurs in the presence of oxygen). In this article I look at aerobic composting, in which the breakdown of organic components is carried out by aerobic microorganisms. This type of composting produces a stable final product without unpleasant odors, with a low risk of plant intoxication.

Compost is a conditioner. With its help, you can obtain soil with improved structure and quality. Compost increases the concentration of nutrients in the soil and helps retain moisture.

Recycling food and garden waste. Composting helps recycle up to 30% of household waste. The world is throwing away waste every day, and composting can help reduce the amount of waste sent to landfills.

Introduces beneficial microorganisms into the soil. Compost promotes soil aeration, and microorganisms contained in compost suppress the growth of pathogenic bacteria, protecting plants from various diseases and healing the soil.

Good for the environment. Using compost is an alternative to chemical fertilizers.

Composting process. Simple biology

Converting organic waste into compost does not require any complex equipment or expensive artificial additives. Composting waste is a natural process that occurs through organisms found in organic materials and soil that feed or consume each other to process the waste.

Bacteria perform the primary destruction of organic matter. Bacteria are not usually added to compost - they are already found in almost all forms organic matter, and they reproduce quickly under certain conditions.

Non-bacterial compost-forming organisms include fungi, worms and various insects. For them, the compost heap is a wonderful “dining room”. Fungi transform organic components, introducing them into the soil carbon dioxide. Worms consume organic waste, fungi, protozoan nematodes and microbes. Worms process organic matter very quickly, converting it into substances that are easily absorbed by plants. Composting waste using worms is called vermicomposting. The combination of conventional aerobic composting with vermicomposting gives very good results. Insects, by consuming other organisms and each other, also participate in the process of processing materials in the compost.

What waste can be composted?

flickr.com/ szczel/ CC BY 2.0

Compostable materials can be roughly divided into brown and green. Brown (carbonaceous) materials enrich the compost with air and carbon, and green (nitrogen) materials enrich the compost with nitrogen and water. To create compost, you need to alternate layers of brown and green materials.

Table 1 – Materials for composting

Material	Carbon/Nitrogen	Note
Food waste
Fruit and vegetable waste		Add with dry carbon materials
Cut grass		Add in a thin layer so that it doesn’t form clumps.
		Use weeds without seeds
Green leaves of comfrey
Flowers, cuttings		Chop long and thick stems
Seaweed		Make a thin layer; it is a good source of minerals
Chicken droppings		Excellent compost activator
Animal manure		Enriched with microflora and easily decomposing nitrogenous and non-nitrogenous organic compounds
Coffee grounds		Good for fruit trees; attracts earthworms
		Available in bags
garden plants		Use only healthy plants
Eggshell	Neutral	Better shredded
	Carbon	Shredded leaves are better processed
Cut branches of bushes	Carbon	Wood scraps are processed slowly
Hay and straw	Carbon	Straw is better, hay (with seeds) is somewhat worse
	Carbon	Acidifies the soil; use in moderation
Wood ash	Carbon	Use ash obtained from clean wood, sprinkle in a thin layer
	Carbon
Shredded paper	Carbon	Avoid glossy paper and colored ink
	Carbon	Grind the material to prevent caking
Corn cobs, stalks	Carbon	Slowly processed, best used in crushed form
Shredded tissue	Carbon	Made from natural fibers
	Carbon
Chips/pellets	Carbon

You can also add garden soil to your compost. The layer of soil will help mask any odors, and the microorganisms in the soil will speed up the composting process.

These components should not be added to compost!

While many materials can be composted, there are some materials that should not be added to compost.

Table 2 - Materials that should not be added to compost

Getting compost

Choosing a Composting System

Composting waste can be done in a compost heap, hole, box or trench. It is more convenient to compost in a box than in a hole, and it looks more aesthetically pleasing than a heap, while retaining heat and moisture. You can make the box yourself from scrap lumber, wooden pallets, snow fences, chicken wire, old tanks or concrete blocks. For example, this article gives a drawing of a compost bin and explains how it is made. You can also purchase a ready-made composting bin. To begin with, it is better to use a one-box system.

Waste composting area

General criteria:

• The place should be at least partially shaded;
• It is better that it is at least 50 cm away from buildings;
• The site must be freely accessible so that materials can be added to the compost;
• It is good if there is a source of water nearby;
• There must be good drainage so that water does not become trapped in the pile (this can slow down the decomposition process).

Adding materials

To begin with, you can measure out equal parts of green and brown materials to create a good mixture. For example, equal amounts of brown autumn leaves and freshly cut grass may provide the optimal combination. But if it is not possible to immediately create the optimal combination of materials, then you should not worry about it. As composting progresses, you can adjust the mixture by adding the necessary materials.

Base layer. Start with brown materials. Place a 10-15 cm layer of large brown materials (for example, branches) at the bottom of the pile for ventilation.

Alternation of green and brown materials. The thickness of the layers of nitrogen (green) materials and carbon (brown) materials should be 10-15 cm. Composting will become more active after mixing them.

Size matters. Most materials will degrade faster if they are broken or cut into small pieces.

Moistening the compost. The compost pile should feel like a wrung out sponge. Squeeze a handful of compost; If droplets of water appear between your fingers, then there is enough water in it. Goes to the heap rainwater, as well as moisture from greens (freshly cut grass contains almost 80% moisture). If the pile becomes too wet to dry, you can stir it more often and/or add drier brown materials to it.

Mixing the compost

flickr.com/ M. Dolly/ CC BY 2.0

Once the compost heap is collected, compost-forming organisms—bacteria, fungi, and insects—get to work. At the same time, you may notice that the temperature of the compost rises and steam may emanate from it.

To exist and reproduce in compost, living organisms that process organic matter need water and air. Water allows microorganisms to develop and move throughout the compost. Mixing the compost with a shovel or pitchfork will allow air to enter. About a week after filling the materials, the compost can be mixed. When mixing, you need to break up any lumps and moisten the pile as needed.

Stir and moisten the compost heap until the compost is ready. The composting process can be quite quick during the summer months. The compost may stop heating after a few weeks. If the compost in the pile is dark and crumbly, smells fresh and earthy, and no longer resembles the original materials, it is probably ready.

Using ready-made compost

flickr.com/ Diana House/ CC BY 2.0

Compost is not a fertilizer, but it contains nutrients, which promote plant growth. Using compost reduces the need for watering and artificial fertilizers.

Adding compost to the soil.IN sandy soils compost acts like a sponge, retaining water and nutrients for plant roots. In clay soils, compost makes the soil more porous by creating tiny holes and passages that improve the permeability of moisture in the soil.

To level the surface and improve the landscape.

Can be used as foliar plant food or mulch. Mulch covers the soil around plants, protecting it from erosion, drying and sun.

Can be added to potting mix for indoor plants.

Composting problems and their solutions

Home composting is not a very complicated process, but usually some problems are encountered in the process of making compost.

The pile doesn't heat up

Size matters. The compost heap should be at least 2 meters wide and 1.2-1.5 meters high, with such dimensions the heap retains heat and moisture.

Moisture. Do a compression test: take a handful of material and squeeze it. If no droplets of moisture appear between your fingers, then the pile is too dry. Stir the pile and add water.

Nitrogen. If the pile is new, it may be missing green materials. Try adding grass clippings or fruit and vegetable scraps. As a last resort, use some nitrogen-rich fertilizer.

Ventilation. The compost heap must “breathe”. Use rough materials such as wood chips to create air spaces in the pile and add carbon to the mix.
Maybe the compost is ready. If the compost has been mixed several times and has been standing for a long time, then it is probably ready. Sift the compost through a sieve and use.

There is a smell

Rotten egg smell. The pile does not have enough airflow because it is too wet. Stir the pile with a shovel or pitchfork to introduce air. To increase air flow, you can add wood chips or some other filler.

Smell of ammonia. This speaks too much large quantities green materials. Add more carbonaceous materials - dry leaves or straw. Mix the pile thoroughly and test for moisture content.

The pile attracts carrion-eating animals and insect pests

Low-fat diet. Do not add food scraps with oils, meats or dairy products; their odors may attract animals such as raccoons or mice.

Cover the compost. Cover new food scraps with carbonaceous materials and place them in the middle of the pile. A closed box will keep large pests out. Insects are an element of the composting system, with the composting process creating enough heat inside to kill their eggs and reduce the number of unwanted insects.

flickr.com/ Diana House/ CC BY 2.0

Organic fertilizers for plants and soil are safe substances that prevent the soil from drying out and depleting. The soil that produces crops annually is subject to fertilizing. The principle of operation of organics is simple: the whole process occurs with the participation of soil microorganisms and earthworms, as well as insects and their larvae.

In a word, for the activity of bacteria to continue, organic matter is needed, and for organic matter to grow, bacteria are needed. In addition, you need to know what not to put in compost so that microbial activity continues throughout the process.

Humic acids are the main substance that gives high performance fertility. Humates are produced under the action of enzymes in the digestive tract of microorganisms and earthworms.

The work of the latter is especially useful. Eukaryotes release coprolites into the soil, which because of this becomes several times more nutritious. Plants absorb microelements several times faster and better, which affects crop yields: it increases by at least 50%.

Compost components

The raw materials for producing compost on your own site are all types of organic matter. These are dry fallen leaves, vegetable and fruit peelings, pruned tree branches, mowed green grass or hay, dry straw, paper or cardboard, cattle manure or bird droppings.

All components are divided into nitrogen and carbon containing. It is necessary to distinguish between them in order to correctly lay out the components and correctly calculate the amount of some and other ingredients.

If, for example, you try to make fertilizer from nitrogen substances alone, the compost heap will begin to rot and emit a stench. The result will be silage. In the worst case scenario, the entire pile will have to be disposed of.

The increased content of carbon-containing substances leads to the fact that under natural conditions, without the use of accelerators, fertilizer will have to wait 2 years. This is not profitable, since plants and soil require nutrition every year.

The correct ratio of substances is when For 1 part nitrogen there are 3 parts carbon-containing components.

Nitrogen raw materials:

• manure;

• fresh grass;

• raw cleaning;

• vegetable tops.

Carbon raw materials:

• straw;

• hay;

• paper;

• dry leaves;

• pine litter - be careful with the amount, since such an additive increases acidity;

• woody branches.

To make the composting process faster, large particles must be crushed before storing.

And in order to get fertilizer in 1.5 - 2 months, you need to use biodestructors and properly care for the composter.

Methods for preparing fertilizer

There are two different ways making compost at home. In a sealed composter without oxygen and in an open compost heap. In the first case, anaerobic bacteria will do all the work.

These are microorganisms that do not like sunlight, high temperature and die when exposed to air. If you use them to decompose components, the compost heap must be hermetically sealed and not opened until the fertilizer has matured.

The aerobic method does not require a sealed container, but is more labor-intensive, since the process requires shoveling the mixture several times to ventilate it. With this type of care, bacteria multiply faster and process plant residues more intensively. It is necessary to monitor the humidity level so that the compost pile does not dry out.

Vermicompost

This method of preparing fertilizer is the fastest, since in addition to bacteria, plant residues are processed by red Californian worms.

This type is the most effective because reproduces 500 times faster than ordinary worms, but to produce great amount cocoons, they need to eat a lot. If conditions external environment meet the needs of this species, then the finished fertilizer can be made not only for yourself, but also for sale.

Conditions of detention:

• Warm room with a temperature of 18 - 20 degrees.

• Equipped pile with wet raw materials and air access.

• Constant supply of plant residues for nutrition.

Vermicompost is the most nutritious organic fertilizer, which requires three times less than other fertilizers. Absorbed completely within a short time, so it does not have time to be washed out by rain.

Where to set up a composter

The compost heap box must be hidden from sunlight, which negatively affects the growth of bacteria. This could be a shade tree or a canopy with a roof. It is advisable that the box has a lid to prevent precipitation from getting inside.

The bottom of the composter is concreted or left open. For a stationary pile, it is better to make a solid floor, since during the maturation process, nutrient fluid flows out, which must be preserved, since it is rich in nitrogen. As an option, they are lined with straw, peat or soil.

You can make a box yourself from boards, mesh or slate, or you can buy a ready-made container. In the first case, it is easier to care for the compost, but only the aerobic composting method is available. IN plastic container raw materials are laid for both aerobic and anaerobic decomposition. But it is more difficult to care for because the container has a small hatch.

How to properly start a compost heap

First, prepare the components and grind them to increase the area of ​​penetration of bacteria. It is recommended to air dry freshly cut green grass to reduce the amount of nitrogen. This will prevent rotting and speed up ripening.

The first thing to do is put it on the bottom soil layer about 30 cm. Next, the layers are alternated so that for 3 parts of carbon-containing components there is one layer of nitrogen. It is recommended to water each layer with a solution of biological fertilizer - purchased in a store or prepared with your own hands - for this they use yeast and fermented milk products.

For aerobic composting, the ingredients are placed loosely, without compaction, so that there is air between them and bacteria can multiply.

Video: How to properly make compost from weeds

After laying the components, after 2 - 3 days it is necessary to shovel the pile. The temperature at this moment is already beginning to rise due to the release of gases. Then you need to turn the mixture every two weeks. If necessary, pour water, but do not fill it, as this will lead to the death of microorganisms. The mixture should be slightly damp.

What you can and cannot add to compost

The question that most interests summer residents is what can be put in compost. You can add all the organic matter, but make sure that it is not affected by fungus, otherwise the disease will spread throughout the area along with the fertilizer.

Which plant tops should not be put into compost:

• cabbage put into compost if it is not damaged by clubroot - growths on the roots;

• tomatoes and potatoes are susceptible to late blight disease, which causes darkening of the leaves; if the tops are healthy, then they can be used as raw materials;

• weeds cannot be put into compost if they are collected with seeds - they are pre-soaked in water so that the shell becomes soft, then bacteria can destroy it;

• snot roots pre-crushed so that the plant cannot survive and germinate in the composter.

Which tops cannot be put into compost are determined by appearance. The greens should be clean, and the root area should be free of darkened areas.

What should not be put in the compost heap:

• glass– it is not processed by bacteria;

• rubber– can cause the death of microorganisms;

• artificial fabric scraps– they are also not digested;

• feces of domestic cats and dogs, since there is a risk of contracting toxoplasmosis;

• meat waste and fat– it attracts flies and other pests;

• painted boards or sawdust with chemicals;

• glossy paper– it is treated with chemicals based on heavy metals.

Construction waste such as drywall, laminate and plastic are not suitable for recycling into fertilizer.

Questions that cause controversy among gardeners:

• Can you put potato peelings in compost? You don’t even have to grind it if you use EO preparations. The exception is tubers affected by fungus.

• Can strawberry leaves be put into compost? Berry plants are also susceptible to diseases, but if everything is in order with the bushes, then the trimmings are placed in a heap.

There is often debate about whether to bring in meat and fish waste. It is better not to do this, as rotting meat attracts insects that lay eggs. Fish waste often contains helminth larvae. This compost can contaminate the entire soil on the site.