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Reliable storm drain– guaranteed protection of the site from flooding

It’s unlikely that anyone will like it when the entire local area turns into a water park after rain. Problems with drainage can cause poor condition of lawns, flower beds, and general form the area is suffering. Fortunately, storm drainage according to SNiP is not such a complex structure, so you can cope with its construction on your own.

Let's understand the design and operating principle of storm drains

Storm sewerage, depending on the method of organizing water drainage from the site, can be divided into:

• open— storm drainage open type does not require pipe laying. Water drainage is organized as follows: water is drained from the roofs of the house through drainage trays, then it is delivered through a pipe to a storm inlet in the form of a grid (a point scheme for collecting wastewater);

To drain wastewater directly from the site, a linear wastewater collection scheme is used.
For this purpose, special ready-made blocks are used, from which the drainage channel is assembled. The upper part of such a block is covered with a grate, through which water gets inside; channels are laid, as a rule, along the paths.

• closed the wastewater disposal system is much more complex. The water first enters a device for sifting out sand and fine suspended matter, then it is transported through pipes laid underground to treatment facilities, and only after that it is discharged into the general city sewer network. Option using treatment facilities and pumps are not used in everyday life; this option is used only for servicing large enterprises.

Since the design of the type 2 drainage system is not simple, in private construction an open or combined storm drain is more often used. This allows you to save time and guarantee reliable drainage of water from the site.

Proper organization of drainage

For normal operation It is not enough for storm drains to simply provide a slope and direct runoff outside the site. It will be necessary to perform at least an approximate calculation of the volume of water discharged so that none of the sections of the storm drain are overloaded.

Regulatory Requirements

The main standard defining the operating conditions of storm sewerage is SNiP 2.04.03-85 and its updated version of 2012 SP 32.13330.2012. Since we are primarily interested in a storm sewer system for a private home, we will pay attention only to gravity sewerage.

When installing a storm drain in country house On your own, the recommendations of SNiP are not mandatory, but you should still listen to them, because the performance of the system as a whole depends on their implementation.

From the entire document it is worth highlighting:

• standardization of slopes depending on the material of the tray. In this matter, everything depends on the surface roughness, for example, for asphalt concrete trays minimum slope should not be less than 0.003, but for trays with polymer coating slope 0.001 allowed;

The width of the bottom of ditches and ditches should not be less than 0.3 m, and the depth is not recommended to be less than 0.4 m;

• When using a closed sewer system, the slope depends on the diameter of the pipes. Pipes with a diameter of 150 mm must be laid with a minimum slope of 0.008, 200 mm - 0.007. In this case, it is assumed that the pipeline will operate in a free-flow mode with a filling in the region of 0.7-0.8;
• for pipe diameters up to 500 mm, SNiP recommends that the installation depth be taken to be 0.3 m below the depth of soil freezing in winter. The laying depth refers to the mark of the bottom of the trench into which the pipe is laid;
• With regard to inspection wells, the standard allows the installation of wells with a diameter of 600 mm (on pipes with a diameter of up to 150 mm) so that a cleaning mechanism can be introduced into it. There is no provision for people to descend into them.

Storm sewers and drainage systems should not be combined into one. In a heavy rainfall, the pipes simply cannot cope with the drainage of water, and they will become dirty much faster.

In principle, if you are installing a storm drain with your own hands outside the city, then from the entire SNiP, you should pay attention only to the diameters of the pipes and the minimum slope. The remaining requirements can be taken as recommendations.

Basic elements of storm drains

For a better understanding of the operation and design of storm sewers, we will list all the elements that are required for its construction and briefly define their purpose:

• each roof slope must be equipped with a gutter suspended on holders so that water will be delivered to the drainpipe (you can use a diameter of 100 mm);
• A rain inlet is installed under the outlet of each drainpipe. Through the grate, water enters the sand trap; the first filter on the path of rainwater in the form of a grate prevents small pebbles, branches, leaves, etc. from entering the system. But in the sand trap, water settles; under the influence of gravity, sand particles settle to the bottom and other small debris, this is much better than if sand settles in the pipes;

A simple gravity sand trap is enough for your home.
The price of such a device depends on the material and starts at approximately 1200-1500 rubles for a plastic model; concrete analogues will cost 70-80% more.

• To drain water from the site, prefabricated trays (concrete or polymer) are used, assembled from separate sections and installed so that the grid on the surface is flush with the ground. A sand trap is installed at the end of the tray and from it the rainwater moves on;
• through pipes laid below the freezing depth, water is directed either to or to the central sewer network, or is simply discharged outside the site, for example, to a ravine or river;

• You will also need to install inspection wells at pipeline turns and at their junctions.

If necessary reuse For additional purification of rainwater, filter cartridges can be used.
They can be installed either in a manhole or directly in a storm drain.
Outwardly it looks like a piece of pipe with filter media, and the principle of operation resembles the simplest household filters for drinking water.

The calculation itself is not complicated, but rather labor-intensive and requires attention; you will have to work with a lot of coefficients and take into account local climatic conditions. The main document, as before, is SNiP 2.04.03-85.

The basic calculation formula is:

where q20 is the intensity of precipitation lasting 20 minutes, determined according to SNiP 2.04.03-85, l/s per 1 ha;

F – catchment area, ha. It is not the actual roof area that is calculated, but its projection onto the horizontal plane;

Ψ – runoff coefficient, depends on the type of material.

As for the calculation of individual sections of the network, the point comes down to ensuring the required slope and flow speed. These parameters must be within the limits recommended in SNiP.

As for the need for calculations, it all depends on the construction site and type of structure. If you just need to ensure normal drainage of rainwater from a site outside the city, then the instructions do not require mandatory calculations; you can simply take the diameter of the pipe with a small margin.

Sewage installation

The gutter at the edge of the roof slope is attached to special holders (the slope of the gutter is given in the region of 2%), and a drainpipe is also installed. In order to slightly reduce the speed of the water, the lower end of the drainpipe is installed at an angle of 20-30° to the vertical. In no case should its end be brought to the ground; there should be a distance of about 10 centimeters between the storm inlet grate and the end of the pipe.

In theory, it is necessary to ensure that the pipes are below the freezing depth, but in practice this requirement is not always met. If the soil freezes to 80-110 cm in winter, then, taking into account the recommendations of SNiP, trenches will have to be dug 110-140 cm deep, and excavation work is one of the most labor-intensive stages.

To reduce the labor intensity of the work, you can simply insulate the storm sewer pipe. But it’s still not worth taking risks and laying it 20 cm from the surface of the earth.

The next important stage is ensuring the slope. A level will come in handy here; with its help, it is easy to control the slope of the trench at key points when profiling its bottom. It will not be so convenient to work with a building level.

Sometimes fragments of bricks and stones are placed under the pipe to give the desired slope. Is not The best decision problems, the soil under the pipe will be under-compacted, then it will begin to work like a beam on 2 supports, which will affect its durability.

The trays are installed so that the gratings are flush with the ground. When drawing up the project, the entire site is divided into drainage basins, and a separate tray provides water drainage from each of them.

The issue of wastewater discharge is resolved individually. For city houses the best option- discharge into the citywide network, for suburban real estate - either a collector, or simply discharge outside the site.

Summarizing

Storm drainage in a private house is a simple thing, but simply necessary for normal condition plot. In the most advanced cases, problems with drainage can even lead to the erosion of the foundation of the house; it is clear that this does not increase the service life. So it’s better to resolve this issue right away rather than putting it off for later.

The video in this article is a small master class on how to install a storm drain.

Today, I want to tell you what is happening under your feet. Show the scale of the structures and open your eyes to underworld. All photos were taken personally in Volgograd, the story will be based on its example

1. Elshansky collector

Do you often think about what is under your feet? What is under the hatches that you constantly step on?
I don't think anyone cares. There are many secrets buried underground, but today we’ll talk about storm drainage.
Every day we all see drainage grates at the curbs on the roads; they are the beginning of a large drainage system

2.

Under almost every road there are pipes with a diameter of 30 cm, this is the very beginning of the system; perpendicular pipes of smaller diameter go to these pipes from the gratings. Water entering the grate flows into the main pipe under the road. When estimated quantity water exceeds throughput, then the pipe diameter increases. So the pipes go until they intersect with another collector of larger diameter, where the drainage takes place. So the diameter of the pipes increases incrementally, right up to the main and pressure collectors, which are huge and very dangerous. Let's look at some systems now.

The Tsaritsyn stormwater system includes the main tunnel underground river Tsaritsa 4 by 4 meters, 1.8 km long, two large tributaries: the Krasnoznamensky collector with a diameter of 1.5 meters, 800 meters long and the Tsaritsynsky storm collector with a diameter of 1.8 meters and a length of 1.7 km, there are also about half a hundred small connections

3. The Krasnoznamensky collector enters the Tsarina River

4. Tsaritsyn storm sewer

5. The hole on the right is the passage to the trunk left over from construction

6. Sometimes the depth reaches 26 meters

7. Queen River

8. For scale

9. On vacation

10, Connection

11. The roots have broken through the arch and feed on water

The Petrovsky collector consists of 2 parallel tunnels 1.2 km long. collect water from several highways and the Petrov plant

13. Beginning of the system

14. Main tunnel

15. One of the tunnels

16. One of the divisions

17. Vertical discharge from factory

18. Chamber for combining tunnels into one common one

19. The main feature is a 12 meter arch

22. Exit of the collector to the street

Elshansky collector. Interesting system shield penetration, deep, with a diameter of up to 4 meters or more. Length more than 1.7 km. It passes directly under residential areas and below metro tunnels. Receives water from the street network, groundwater from the metro and water from the road tunnel

23. The beginning is pompous. 7 meter arch in the Stalin Empire style

24. Inside view

25. At the end of the arch there is a transition into a rectangular tunnel

28. Transition to a round tunnel

29. Change of section

31. Smooth turn and water discharge chamber

32. Elevation difference, the lower tunnel goes directly into the Volga

33. Beauty)

The river is white. A huge system and very beautiful + the old site is about 200 years old. Main tunnel 3 km, connection 700 meters, main tributary 2.5 kkm

34. Main tunnel. Beginning of the old section

36. This is beauty

37. Fountain

41. Huge stalactids

42. In one of the connections

Arrangement country house requires solving many engineering and construction issues. In addition to creating convenient and comfortable conditions to live inside the house - you will also have to arrange a personal plot. One of the important buildings on suburban area is a storm drain at the dacha.

Protecting yourself from precipitation

There are practically no areas in our country where there is no precipitation. IN middle lane In Russia, the volume of rain and water from melting snow during the year can be measured in cubic meters. In addition, not a single dacha is immune from heavy rain, which in a limited time can oversaturate the soil on your site with moisture and turn it into a natural swamp.

After your dacha is covered by heavy rain, the fallen water will roll off the roofs and from areas with a hard, non-water-absorbing coating into the ground, excessively saturating it with moisture. Not only can this moisture cause problems for your crops, but it can also cause the foundation of your home to collapse. If you have a cellar, basement or basement in your country houses, water can penetrate into these rooms and partially flood them. The same situation with an excessive amount of moisture in the area can also develop during intense spring melting of the snow cover.

To protect yourself from the adverse effects of moisture - on personal plots they install a storm drain that drains excess moisture outside your dacha, to a place where it cannot damage anything.

Main characteristics of storm drainage

The storm sewer system is a rather specific structure. Unlike conventional water supply, rain and melt water contain a large number of both large debris and small suspended particles. This composition of the drain involves carrying out primary treatment and creating a channel for the uninterrupted movement of littered water.

Composition of the storm drainage system at the dacha

The composition of the storm drainage system is not limited solely to drains that collect rain moisture from the ceilings of structures. Rain pipes are just one of the components storm drains.

The following main components can be distinguished in a dacha storm drainage system:

• Elements that remove rainwater and melting moisture from various areas of floors or terrain.
• Elements that collect diverted melt water away from garden beds or houses.
• Elements that allow you to accumulate or reuse accumulated moisture.

It is also worth noting that storm drainage can be created using two design methods: linear and point, or a combination of both.

Point storm drainage system at the dacha

When using this method of collecting rain or melt water, runoff is collected from hard, non-absorbent surfaces, for example roofing coverings or paved areas. Next, the wastewater is sent to receiving funnels. After collection, the wastewater is transported to the drainage system.

Linear storm drainage system at the dacha

When using a linear drainage system, all runoff from non-absorbent surfaces is drained into gutters located along such areas. After collection, rain and melt runoff is sent to the drainage system. If there is a border with a ravine or reservoir on your site, it is advisable to direct the drains towards the natural flow. As an option, rain and melt runoff can flow into a purification plant, where it undergoes primary treatment.

Recycling rain and melt water seems to be a very profitable activity. With its use, you can achieve significant savings on water bills for irrigation or cleaning. Rain and melt runoff carry relatively few pollutants and their treatment in a standard septic tank should not pose any particular problem.

We install storm drains in our country house ourselves

Despite the fact that storm sewerage is a rather complex engineering system, you can easily install it yourself. The situation is made easier by the fact that in the storm water sewer system There are no pressure pumps, and the water in it moves by gravity. Therefore, installing a storm drain at a dacha or in a country house is only a more technically advanced children's igloo with spring streams. In order to competently design and install rain or melt water drainage at your dacha, you need to have only minimal technological skills.

Storm sewer installation technology

1. On initial stage the storm sewer system is being calculated. The minimum necessary elements are a system for draining water from buildings, since rainwater in excess can seriously complicate your life. Next, if necessary, drainage from paths and hard-surfaced areas, for example from an asphalt parking lot, is calculated.
2. Having determined the areas from which water should be drained, it is necessary to ensure that rain moisture does not linger on such surfaces. Everything is clear with the roof - water is collected from it in a standard manner drainage system. But in order to ensure that your paths or parking lot at the dacha are not covered with water after every rain, during their construction it is necessary to provide a slope along which water, under the influence of gravitational forces, will roll into water intake funnels or gutters. Similar devices - funnels or gutters - are installed under the ends drainpipes that collect moisture from the roof.
3. After calculation and construction of all funnels or drainage gutters, the collected water should be discharged away from the site, or into the wastewater treatment system.
4. Water drainage from water intakes can be carried out closed or open method. When using the open method, water flows into gutters closed at the top with grates. When using closed system water enters the collection and disposal site through a system of underground pipes.
5. Both when laying gutters and when placing pipes, building drainage structures should be placed with a slope towards the drainage area. The angle of inclination of drainage pipes and gutters is calculated in the same way as when laying an external sewer system.
6. When laying pipes and gutters, after digging trenches in the selected location, a sand cushion at least 10 centimeters thick is laid on their bottom.
7. The drainage system pipes in the ground do not need to be buried to a significant extent. Storm drainage works exclusively in the warm season and is not threatened by freezing problems.
8. To ensure that the system does not become clogged, it is necessary to install filter grids to collect large debris and sand traps to collect suspended small particles such as sand. At the locations of filters and sand traps for underground closed pipe laying, it is necessary to provide inspection wells and hatches for routine maintenance and unscheduled wastewater treatment.

Features of storm sewer installation

To lay storm drain gutters in an open manner, you can use ready-made solutions - concrete and plastic gutters for storm drains.

Also, storm sewer can be combined with a drainage system. In soils with big amount moisture requires constant removal of excess water. To do this, pipes with holes are laid in the ground, which collect moisture from the soil and divert it away from the site. These same pipes can also be used to move rain or melt water outside the area. However, as a rule, drainage pipes are laid at a depth greater than the storm sewer system.

Carefully calculate the slope of the drainage pipes. Use a building level or a special theodolite.

Please note that water is a rather aggressive environment, so make the storm sewer system exclusively from materials that are not susceptible to corrosion, such as plastic or reinforced concrete. Do not use pipes with corrugated surfaces as they are extremely susceptible to clogging.

Water can find its way out everywhere, so when connecting storm drain pipes, use sealing technologies similar to conventional outdoor drains.

To prevent the water in the storm drain from freezing winter time– at the beginning of frost, the system must be completely cleaned and freed from water.

All entrances to drainage basins and storm gutters must be covered with gratings. It is easier to rake leaves from such grates than to later remove them from the bowels of the sewer system.

At each turn of the drainage pipe there must be an inspection hatch or well.

To learn more about the technology for constructing storm drains in a dacha, watch the video tutorial.

Storm drainage at the dacha: video

When prolonged rains begin, the water accumulating in the area saturates the ground, but the soil quickly becomes oversaturated with moisture, and now puddles form, the lowlands are flooded along with the plants. If you allow rainwater to accumulate, over time there is a chance that the soil under buildings will float or the basement will be flooded, not to mention ruined plantings. To avoid all this, care should be taken in advance to remove precipitation.

Types of waste systems - choosing water collectors

The name of this engineering structure Common to all structures is the drainage system. But how it will be located on the area around the house - options are possible. There are point and line types. The features of their device can be understood from the names. The first method of draining rainwater involves installing receiving funnels with lattice or mesh traps for various debris. To be effective, all nearby surfaces must be inclined towards such a funnel. The second type is gratings laid over a certain segment over a gutter or shallow ditch.

You can also choose the method of arrangement of the collecting and discharging elements of the system. This may be a buried network of pipes large diameter with good throughput and special inspection wells. This option good because it’s invisible and therefore doesn’t spoil it at all landscape design local area. The main disadvantage is that it will take a lot earthworks. You can also lay a network of gutters along the surface, covering them with gratings. Stretching along garden paths such water collectors will be noticeable, but will not disturb the appearance of the landscaped area, and this type is easier to install with your own hands.

Basic norms - what do you need to know about SNiP?

There are certain rules for laying storm protection drainage system, which directly depend on the diameter of the pipes you purchase and the depth of soil freezing. So, for example, if you take corrugated drainage with the smallest diameter of 110 mm, it is advisable to reduce the slope by about 20 millimeters per meter. Next standard diameter drainage channels– 150 mm, it has a large capacity, so it is enough to make a slope of only 10 millimeters. All other standard sizes, starting from 200 mm, can be laid with a lowering of the ditch bottom by 7 millimeters for each linear meter of pipe.

At the same time, it is highly advisable to calculate in advance the throughput capacity of your drainage system based on the amount of precipitation falling at a time for each square meter surfaces. There are special climate maps for this, but it is easier to use the average statistical data for each region. Next, the selected value is substituted into the formula for calculating the volume (in liters) that the drain will have to pass per unit of time (per second): Q = q 20 × F × ℘ . Here q 20 – precipitation intensity, F – surface area of ​​the drain from which rainwater is collected, and ℘ - coefficient of moisture absorption by the coating. To use the formula, use the following rainfall intensity data, selecting the appropriate region:

Moscow – 80;

Krasnodar – 100;

Nizhny Novgorod – 90;

Samara – 70;

Saratov – 70;

Volgograd – 60;

Rostov-on-Don – 90;

St. Petersburg – 60;

Kazan – 80.

Roof – 1;

Asphalt concrete pavements – 0.95;

Cement concrete coatings – 0.85;

Crushed stone coverings – 0.25–0.6;

Gravel coverings – 0.15–0.3;

Grass area depending on the soil – 0.05–0.35.

All that remains is to calculate the surface area from which the precipitation that falls on it must be removed. Whether it’s a roof or a path near a house, its shape is most often rectangular, which means calculations won’t take much time. Now we substitute all the numerical values ​​into the formula and find out how many liters per second your drainage pipe should pass.

Elements of watercourses - construction kit for sewerage

Regardless of what the parts of the storm drain are made of, the assembly is usually standard. Special blocks, bends and connecting elements are used, similar to fittings for water pipes. All these components are divided into three groups, each of which has a specific purpose:

• for collecting water, melt and rain, from roofs, paths, lawns;
• to drain water away from the house and paths;
• for accumulation and use in irrigation of rain and melt water.

Collecting water from the roof

Part of the system is mounted on the roof and walls of the house. Gutters are attached along the overhangs into which precipitation falling on the slopes flows. Further along the guide watercourses, the collected water enters special funnels, collection or outlet, to which vertical waste pipes are connected. If necessary, this design uses tees to connect additional hoses, as well as elbows to change the direction of drainage. At the bottom there is a drain elbow that directs the stream into the storm sewer receiver.

Water collection elements of the drainage system

To prevent precipitation from spreading over the surface of the earth, special collecting and draining structures are used. Point storm drains are installed under the sewer pipes of the house, and trays covered with gratings are placed near the porch. In both cases, these elements only accept water flowing into them, which then enters pipes hidden underground. To construct a surface drainage system, gutters are used, which are also capable of receiving excess moisture from the surface, for example, from paths. At the same time, these elements also direct the collected water either outside the site or into the purification system.

Depending on whether the storm drain is external or buried, the same gutter or pipe is used as the main element, respectively. In the first case, almost the entire network runs along the surface of the site, with the exception of water collectors, and in the second, it is laid at the bottom of dug trenches and covered with soil. Also, in most cases, both types of elements are used in combination when it is necessary to direct water from gutters laid along paths and in the local area into buried collectors. Pipes are usually made of polypropylene and have a corrugated outer surface with perforations - tiny holes for moisture to escape.

Purifiers and storage tanks in storm drains

If thawed and rainwater are not directed through gutters or pipes outside the site (there are no drains or gullies outside the site), care must be taken to ensure that the system uses cleaners and storage tanks. Storm inlets and gutters with trays are connected to special sand traps - tanks in which the outlet pipes are located significantly above the bottom. Small particles of suspended soil carried by water settle in the lower part of the container, and pure water through the outlet openings it is directed into the system. Must be installed check valve so that when the pipes overflow, water does not come to the surface and flood the area.

To branch the network, special tees are installed, and where 4 watercourses converge, they are connected under an inspection well. The latter can be installed directly above the storage tank, which is called a collector, or instead of it, depending on the intensity of precipitation. It is also mandatory to use siphons in front of the storage tanks, which do not allow the smell of stagnant water to escape. Collectors as closing elements of storm sewers are needed only in cases where precipitation and melt water very plentiful. For the same purposes, you can install a regular one.

In some cases, it is possible to connect a storm drain to a garden drainage system so that excess water gradually enters the soil through perforated pipes.

Construction of a buried system - sequence of work

First of all, you should draw up a laying plan drainage pipes on the site, taking into account plantings and the location of buildings, including a residential building. You should also take into account the paths if they are already laid. By the way, it is better to lay surface system gutters along them, making the coating slope from the center to the edges. Next, trenches are dug. The depth, as mentioned earlier, depends on the thickness to which the top layer of soil freezes. From this level to a pipe whose diameter is less than 500 millimeters, there must be at least 30 centimeters. For larger diameters, increase the depth from the lowest freezing point to 50 centimeters. In general, the height of the trench wall from the edge to the bottom should be at least 70 centimeters.

However, when starting the installation of a storm drain, one should also take into account at what level from the soil surface the groundwater lies. If they are located too high, it is better to make the ditch shallow, strengthening the bottom with a carefully compacted layer of clay, and insulating the pipe. Next, according to the markings, we dig holes for sand traps, storm wells and collectors. For pipes up to 150 millimeters, the distance between inspection shafts should be no more than 35 meters. For watercourses up to 450 millimeters, a gap of 50 meters between wells is sufficient. If pipes up to 600 millimeters or more are used, the distance between storm wells can be increased to 75 meters.

It is highly desirable that the shaft diameter manhole was at least 1 meter to make it easier to remove blockages in the system.

All ditches are dug in compliance with the previously specified slope from the house to the location of the collector or septic tank or to the border of the site where the water collected by the storm sewer will be discharged. A sand cushion 10 centimeters thick is laid at the bottom, if necessary, on top of compacted clay. To avoid silting of the system, you can wrap the pipes with geotextiles during installation. Special couplings are used to connect individual parts. Sand traps are installed at the junctions of individual sections, from which there is a direct water flow to the well. The entire branched network gradually converges into one sleeve, which is connected to a collector or septic tank. Then the system is covered with soil.

System maintenance - what are the protection methods?

In cold winters, temperatures can drop to abnormal levels for the area, and soil freezing will be deeper than usual. But the drainage system should not freeze, since in the event of sudden warming it will thaw much longer than the snow cover. In order to protect the sewer system from frost, an artificial heating system is used. To do this, during the installation process, a special self-regulating electrical cable is wrapped around the pipe. This option is convenient because the heat transferred to the drainage element will depend on external temperature. The more the soil freezes, the more the pipe will heat up.

After the cable is wound in frequent turns around the drainage sleeve, thermal insulation is put on top. It should be protected from getting wet by the geotextile wrapped in the next layer. Also, on frosty days, you can create a forced flow of water, in which case the resulting crust of ice should break and be washed off with a stream. This is achieved by using a pump that will supply water under pressure to the storm drain. The same option is also suitable for periodically flushing the system. But in order to avoid its contamination, it is highly advisable to close the inspection shafts with hatches, and the rainwater inlets with frequent gratings.

If blockages do occur, first of all the trays and funnels of the rainwater catchers are cleaned. Then you need to start inspecting the storm wells and only after thoroughly cleaning them - to identify any blockages in the pipes. It’s easier with a gutter system - just lift all the grates to identify the reason for the delay in water flow. Cleaning or simply inspection must be carried out after each heavy rain or after heavy melting of snow. To clean the drainage system pipes, a regular sewer cable is used.

The water drainage procedure requires an integrated approach, since drainage is installed on the facade of the house and underground. In order for everything to work properly, it is necessary to make the correct calculation of the storm drainage system.

These are complex collection activities surface water. This means the manufacture of bends from special pipes, gutters, siphons, sand traps, plugs, storm water inlets and other elements. Its main task is to collect and drain rainwater, melted snow and similar precipitation from the house. Discharge can be carried out into a septic tank or a special container.

Advice! If a ground drainage system is being constructed on a site, then stormwater runoff cannot be directed to one place. As a rule, drainage and stormwater are laid in one trench in parallel, but water is collected in different places. Moreover, the stormwater system is located higher in level.

Nuances when installing on the site with your own hands

Must be manufactured in accordance with all prescribed requirements:

1. Features of the landscape (slope, location of buildings on the territory, presence of reservoirs, etc.).
2. Geological features (nature of the soil, its ability to absorb, etc.).
3. The specifics of the building on which the external part of the rainwater drainage system will be installed.
4. Which average level precipitation falls in your area.
5. Where and how other utilities are located.
6. What will it be like total area collection and drainage.

SNiP

Mandatory compliance with SNiP and similar standards according to GOST for its manufacture at small area. Failure to comply with basic requirements will lead to malfunctions in its operation. Thus, the main provisions are set out in SNiP 2.04.03-85 “Sewerage. External networks and structures".

To achieve the greatest effect, it is extremely important to have the following information at hand, preferably documented:

• Plan of the existing sewer system.
• Working drawings.
• A network profile is made in a longitudinal section.
• A statement of the work that will be carried out.

Types of rain systems and their design

There are three main types and methods of organizing a drainage system for collecting rainwater:

1. Open.
2. Closed.
3. Mixed.

The first option is the simplest and inexpensive way arrangement of storm drains. This refers to a system of installed gutters on the roof. Water is collected through them. Then the drainage is carried out through semi-open special grooves.

A more complex system is a closed one. Here pipes and storm water inlets are installed underground. All water is collected, purified and taken to a separate place for further use for economic purposes.

Combined or mixed means the use of elements of open and closed storm drainage. It is especially effective in cases where it is necessary to reduce costs when landscaping large areas.

As for installation schemes, there are two types:

1. Spot.
2. Linear.

The linear scheme is used to collect precipitation from large areas. It includes laying pipes, sand traps and other elements. All receiver locations are connected into a common system.

Point, on the contrary, includes individual storm water inlets from which water is drained through pipes. These catchers are equipped with a protective grille, filters and similar equipment. It is located in separate areas, for example, in the corners of a building, etc.

Selecting material for the system

Rainwater collection is carried out using:

• pipes;
• wells;
• receiving elements;
• gutters.

When choosing them, it is necessary to take into account some features. An important component of the system are the receiving elements. Funnels are installed on the roof and platforms. They are made from polymer concrete, polypropylene and polyethylene. Their design includes filter baskets in which various inclusions settle. To exclude receipt from them unpleasant odors, some types of receivers have siphons. Their installation is carried out under pipes when organizing a point system.

At the entrance to the building, door trays can be installed, which include a drainage outlet and a protective mesh on top. Plus, this grill allows you to remove dirt from shoes.

Mandatory elements are pipelines, gutters and trays. The most commonly used are polymer pipes and PVC. One important requirement is that all pipe joints must be sealed.

Trays for transporting sediments are made of ordinary concrete or polymer materials. The latter are much simpler and easier to install. Moreover, their smooth internal structure does not create any obstacles to the flow of liquid from the inside. As a result, the possibility of clogging is eliminated. The main thing is to install them with the correct slope.

Wells must be installed to collect precipitation. They must be sealed and reliable. They have all the necessary characteristics.

Calculation and arrangement

Design plays an important role in laying out an autonomous system. To calculate everything correctly, the following points must be taken into account:

• Wastewater removal rate.
• The amount of precipitation in your area.
• From what area is collection planned? The roof area is also taken into account.
• How polluted the wastewater will be.
• Features of the landscape and relief of the local area.
• The prevailing temperature in the area.
• Location of the water supply system.

How to do it right?

Installation of the outer part of the storm drain begins with its installation on the facade of the building and the roof. First of all, it is necessary to make preparatory work for gutter installation. To do this, you need to secure the hook.

Advice! Experts recommend using a short hook - one that does not need to be wound under roofing material. This is explained by the fact that if dismantling is necessary, it will be difficult to remove the long one, since the roofing material also needs to be dismantled.

The gutter should be laid at a slope in one direction. On average, for 6 meters it is enough to make a slope of 25–30 mm. This will be enough for the water to fall well. Plus, the fastening hook should not interfere with the free flow of snow. Therefore, in the direction of the roof slope, the edge of the hook should be lower.

A connector must be used to connect the gutter. It has a special latch and a rubber seal. A plug is installed at the highest point at the end. All water flowing down the gutter should fall into the canadian and funnel. Through them, all precipitation enters the pipeline.

Based on the projection of the roof from the facade, elbows are used to connect the funnel to the vertical pipe. If the roof is hipped, then a tee is installed at the corners to connect the gutter.

As for the wall part of the drain, a bracket and holder are used to secure the pipe. The drain should be located about 50 mm from the wall. An elbow is also installed at the top of the pipe at an angle of 45 degrees and do not forget about the funnel. When the pipe is fixed to the wall, it is necessary to measure the distance from one elbow to the other. Also note that it must fit 80 mm into both links. This means that 160 mm must be added to the actual distance between the knees.

It is necessary to organize drainage from the building. The outlet of the lower elbow should be located at some distance from the foundation. A pipe branch from the building is laid in the ground. This is where all waste should go. For this purpose, a receiver is installed.

Advice! It is recommended to use roofing sealant when connecting the gutter and tees. This is important even if there is a rubber seal.

All above-ground exterior work begins with digging trenches. In the process of digging a pit, it is necessary to immediately organize a slope. The slope of the line should be 10 mm per linear meter, this is the maximum. This will be enough to prevent the pipeline from silting. It is equally important to determine the depth of pipe installation. The peculiarity of such a system is that the water inside does not stagnate, but drains. Therefore, you should not be afraid of freezing. However, it is important to think about mechanical impact. For example, if the drain will pass in a place where vehicles move, then the depth must be appropriate. Therefore, you can focus on a depth of 70 cm.

During installation, the level must be constantly checked. A sand cushion is made at the bottom of the ditch. This will prevent pipe subsidence, and rubber seals will make the connection airtight. Moreover, the cushion of sand and crushed stone should be compacted. If the soil is dominated by stones, then they should be completely removed from the trench. If the connection is leaky, then drying the ground will not be possible.

If a lot of snow falls in your area, then it is necessary to correctly calculate the diameter of the pipe, since when the snow thaws, the volume of precipitation will be very large. The created drain must successfully cope with both minimal and heavy precipitation. In many ways, the specific features of the drainage device will be determined based on the topography. If there is a natural soil slope, then it is necessary to use it. To collect all sediment, you can dig a hole and place a barrel in it. This water can be used for technical needs, watering the garden, gardening at the dacha.

Gutters for storm drainage

If suburban a private house is arranged open, for this purpose gutters are installed, it is best that they are made of concrete. They can be installed around the perimeter of the house, sidewalk paths and sites. In SNT conditions, they will not allow flooding of adjacent territories and private buildings. When laying them, it is good to focus on the natural slope of the relief. As a rule, installation is carried out on concrete, because they will be subject to physical impact.

How to maintain a storm drain

Designing and building it is one thing. To make it last as long as possible, it needs to be properly maintained. All work in this direction comes down to periodic cleaning. Sediment can form on the walls of gutters, gutters and pipes (for example, stuck leaves from a tree gradually collect silt). This significantly reduces throughput. The cleaning itself is performed mechanically, thermally, chemically or hydrodynamically.

So, the entire service process comes down to the following steps:

1. Cleaning roof drains.
2. Cleaning receivers from sludge.
3. Cleaning of ground drains.

Conclusion

The installation of rainwater drainage is a responsible undertaking. But the effort is worth it. Yours local area will not be oversaturated with moisture. We hope that the information provided helped you draw the right conclusions. Photos, diagrams and videos at the end of the article will help consolidate the whole theory.

Useful video

Technical points:

Installation errors:

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