This is my favorite structure in the garden. When everyone around me is surprised at how many cucumbers I collect and asks how many are planted, I calmly answer - nine - and wait for a reaction. Yes, there are only 9 seeds, but from mid-June to mid-September the harvest continues. At least 6-7 buckets of selected cucumbers per summer. And you don’t need more! In addition, they are beautiful, easy to care for, and cucumbers are always dry and clean.

1 First, the long side of the old slate was dug in standard size 170 * 110 cm. We dug 60 cm, leaving 110 cm above the ground. The result was a cube a little more than a meter. To keep the slate vertical and not be pushed apart by the mass of earth, they tied it with steel wire in two places.
2 In the spring, as soon as the ground thawed, they began to fill the cube: first they poured a cushion of sand 50 cm high, then they laid a film, and on it a layer of 30 cm of fresh manure and compost mixed. This is a firebox, overheating, the manure releases heat and warms from below. Then 25 cm of good rotted compost mixed with garden soil. Spilled 3 buckets hot water with potassium permanganate. Then we cover everything with black lutrasil. In general, you can make and fill the cube in late autumn, just cover the top with film so that the food does not wash out from the top layer. I “soften” the edge of the cube with several layers of old polyethylene so that the lashes don’t cut.
3 I sow the seeds directly into the ground in mid-April (to guarantee, you can sow a supply of 5-7 seeds somewhere in the corner, in case they don’t sprout). I make cuts in the lutrasil, turn the corners inward and sow. I place the arches low so that they can be pulled out and the arch enlarged. I immediately cover the cube with 2 layers of lutrasil and 2 layers of thin film, securing this blanket with a simple elastic band. I don’t sow all the seeds, but only 6 of them; for now I fill the back row with tomato seedlings for growing. Then, in mid-May, the stocky, fat seedlings of tomatoes will go into their greenhouse, and in its place I will sow three more seeds or replant those cucumbers that have sprouted in the corner. This is for late harvest. Until the cucumbers sprout, I don’t remove the film, and then I take it off for a day so that it can rain. You can leave it on for quite a long time, the cube is humid and warm - cucumbers like it.
4 By the time the lashes have grown sufficiently and the threat of frost has disappeared, the plants can be released into free swimming, covered only with lutrasil at night. And soon you won’t even need this: it heats from below and from above, the main thing is not to forget about watering.
5 It is very convenient to collect cucumbers - they hang clean and are clearly visible. When the lashes get close to the ground, I pinch them. In mid-August I begin to cover the entire mountain with lutrasil again at night, otherwise the growth of the cucumbers will slow down. And in September I make an audit and leave the most fruit-bearing shoots, which I lift to the top and put inside the cube, closing it like in the spring. It is better to sow 2-3 proven varieties, the harvest will be greater.
I found the information on classmates. The author is not known to me.

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ABOUT miraculous properties manure on cucumbers and other vegetables has long been known among gardeners. Discussions continue about which manure is better, horse or cow, pig or bird, goat or sheep. From experience own garden I tested the effect of various types of manure on vegetables, and in the end I chose the most suitable for cucumbers. suitable look manure, which I’ll tell you about.

There are various types of manure - the result of the vital activity of domestic animals. Animals are different, and the effect of manure and its influence on plants are different, namely:

• Horse manure is the driest and most crumbly, differs short term decomposition, suitable for application to most crops, including flower gardens. I make an excellent liquid fertilizer for vegetables from horse manure: I put a bucket of manure in a plastic barrel and fill it with water, cover it with a lid and leave it for a week. It is also suitable for mulching plantings;
• The second most popular in my garden is cow manure; it is more liquid than horse manure and is somewhat inferior in the range of nutrients to horse manure. An effective liquid fertilizer is obtained from cow manure - mullein, I make it in the same proportion as the infusion of horse manure. Cow manure is not suitable for mulching, but it is excellent for filling warm beds;
• Goat manure is also good; its structure is closer to horse manure, but it decomposes more slowly. Also suitable for warm beds;
• The use of sheep manure has an interesting effect; it is more nutritious than horse manure, and more loose, even crumbly, but it rots more slowly. I keep it in specially designated compost for a couple of years;
• Chicken droppings and other droppings poultry also applicable in the garden. There is one thing: such fertilizer loses its effectiveness after just a month, so you need to use it right away. However, even in fresh form, the litter has a weak effect; I use it mainly in the form of an infusion;
• I will specifically focus on rabbit manure. Honestly, it’s a stretch to call it a fertilizer; the ammonia content in it is so high that such nutrition is more likely to cause harm than benefit. Rabbit waste must rot for at least four or even five years, but even after this time, in its pure form, the fertilizer is of little use, but it can be added in layers to the compost. It is not suitable for liquid fertilizer.

Which manure is best for cucumbers?

So what kind of manure do cucumbers still like? To grow crops, you need horse manure; it is acceptable to use cow and bird droppings. I have been preparing a warm bed for cucumbers since the fall. I put fresh or slightly rotted horse or cow manure at the bottom. By the time the roots reach it, it will already rot. I try to keep the horse manure in layers; it plays the role of the main biofuel and warms the soil. Inside the warm bed I also add chicken droppings, if any, alternating layers with leaves and grass. I also spread horse manure on top of the bed, nutrients penetrate into the soil along with melt water and feed her. In the spring, I lightly dig up the soil, add rotted horse manure and place cucumbers.

Horse manure contains all the nutrients necessary for the growth of cucumbers. This is the only type of manure that will not oversaturate cucumbers with nitrogen.

With the exception of horse manure, other types of manure are characterized mainly by a higher content of nitrogen than other nutrients.

As the cucumbers grow, I feed them with a liquid infusion of chicken manure or mullein. The first watering is a couple of weeks after germination, the second is another two weeks, and to the third feeding I add ash extract.

How to store manure

An important part of garden life is the storage of manure; it must be correct, otherwise the application will be more likely to cause harm than benefit.

When working with manure, you need to remember that applying fresh fertilizer to cucumbers and other vegetables is unacceptable.

I add fresh manure only in the fall so that it is partially rotted by spring, and in the spring before planting I add only well-rotted manure.

I mostly buy manure in bags and the question immediately arises of how to store it and where to store it. For fresh manure, I have a plot of land fenced off with boards in the corner of the plot; I line the bottom with cardboard so that the nutrients do not go into the soil. I shake the manure out of the bags and put it in storage; it won’t rot in the bags.

To prevent the manure from drying out, I cover the storage with film and leave it until the next season. It takes a year for horse manure to rot, while other species require two years. Chicken manure can be added a month later or immediately in the fall.

I also recommend watching a short video about cow dung, which tells you how to prepare it, use it, its advantages and disadvantages:

I believe that you need to grow environmentally friendly and early vegetables without such dubious practices. I'll tell you how I do it.

I soak cucumber seeds in water for one day. room temperature with the addition of potassium permanganate. Then I transfer them to a moistened piece of gauze or cotton fabric and wait for them to hatch.

I take a flat plastic box 5-8 cm high, place a layer of moss on the bottom, and then lay out the hatched seeds on it and cover them on top with a layer of sawdust. And I moisten this whole “layer cake” a little with water so that the moss is moist. Shoots appear on the third day, and later they can be planted in the ground.

Preparing a bed for cucumbers

Now I start preparing the beds. I dig a ditch the width of two spade bayonets and the depth of one bayonet, fill it with fresh, unrotted manure and cover it with earth. It may be objected to me that fresh manure cannot be used in the garden, but it depends on what for.

In this case fresh manure is an excellent biofuel, when rotting it releases a large number of warmth and warms the soil well, which is what you need for early cucumbers.

After this, I lightly loosen the soil and sprinkle it with ash (I don’t add superphosphate, since I don’t like to use mineral fertilizers on my beds - organics already have everything necessary for plants).

On the finished bed, I use a rake to make two deep furrows with high edges. I again pour manure into them, but it is already well rotted (the best indicator of this is its flowability), and cover it with the same soil on top.

And I plant cucumber seedlings. I water in the evening warm water, which stood in the sun in a tank during the day. I place metal arcs over the bed, tie them together at the top with a cord and stretch the film (the cord is exactly what is needed so that it does not sag between the arcs).

Cucumber planting dates (Pskov region)

Now about the timing.

I will plant at the end of April. And although there are serious return frosts in our area at this time, they are not terrible for my cucumbers: both below and above they are reliably protected from the cold. I water them every day, and they grow quickly in this man-made “climate”. And when the threat of frost has completely passed, I remove the film and tie up the cucumbers.

By the way, many people ask me why I do this. And then, cucumbers don’t like to be disturbed.

They grow long lashes that lie in furrows and even creep into neighboring beds. When harvesting, you have to move them and sometimes move them from place to place so as not to trample them.

And if you accidentally step on them, the fragile branch will break, the leaves will turn yellow and dry out, which will lead to a decrease in the harvest. When tied up, cucumbers are always calm: the lashes themselves crawl up the ropes and hold on tightly to them with their mustaches. And it’s more convenient to water the plantings this way (not to mention fertilizing).

I carry out the garter itself as follows. At the ends of the bed I strengthen two wooden pegs 1.5 m high and connect them with a thick crossbar. I cut the thin braid into 1.7 m pieces. I attach one end to the base of the cucumber sprout with an air loop, and tie the other end to the crossbar.

The loop must not be tight so that there are no abrasions on the sprout.

If everything is done correctly, the lashes will quickly rise up and bloom. The spectacle is fascinating: the cucumbers are hanging clean - just pick them! On such a garter, the vines bear fruit for a long time and produce a large harvest.

It is impossible to obtain a full harvest of cucumbers without fertilizing during the growing season. Manure and other types can serve as a worthy alternative to mineral elements. organic fertilizers. To do this, you need to know which manure is best for cucumbers and how it is used.

Natural fertilizers for cucumbers

Usage natural fertilizers on cucumbers has a number of advantages compared to minerals:

• relative availability and low cost;
• ease of use, the ability in most cases to do without special equipment and technology for application;
• activation of the activity of beneficial bacteria;
• more complete absorption of fertilizers by plants;
• slowing down the impact of organic matter in cold soil and increasing it when the soil is heated, which contributes to a more uniform use of fertilizer;
• no soil contamination chemical products decay.

Note! TO beneficial properties natural fertilizers include their saturation with useful substances. Top dressing can replace the application of mineral fertilizers. Organic matter helps improve soil structure and has positive impact on the functioning of beneficial microorganisms, prevents the development of diseases, pests and weeds. The benefits of their use increase if you know how to fertilize cucumbers with manure.

Mullein

Cow dung is an important source of food and energy for soil microorganisms. This helps ensure that the fertilizer is short period decomposes in the soil. Mullein also improves the physicochemical and physical characteristics of the soil, due to which insoluble substances in the soil become easily digestible.

Cow dung improves the structural features of the soil. When introducing mullein into clay soil it becomes more loose. As a result, the soil will be more convenient to process and will warm up faster and stronger. Feeding cucumbers and tomatoes with mullein, as well as others cultivated plants significantly accelerates their growth.

Feeding cucumbers

It is necessary to prepare the fertilizer in advance, and you need to know how to feed cucumbers with mullein. Mullein is diluted with clean water in a ratio of 1:2 and leave to infuse for a week. After the specified period of time, the substance will be ready for use for its intended purpose.

The application of mullein to cucumbers begins no earlier than two weeks after germination. By this time, the plants should already be forming leaves. Fertilizer can be applied only during watering, since a concentrated solution in its pure form can harm the bushes. 500 ml of compost is diluted in a bucket of water to prepare the substance. 10 liters of the resulting non-concentrated fertilizer is enough for square meter area.

Ideally, it is necessary to introduce mullein into the grooves and furrows in the plot with cucumbers. Thanks to this, it will be possible to deliver the fertilizer directly to the roots. Watering bushes with cow manure from above is not recommended.

Horse dung

Useful properties for cucumbers

When manure is applied to the soil, the benefits of this action begin to appear almost immediately. However, in the first year one cannot expect a significant increase in yield. This is due to the fact that horse manure contains virtually no mineral nitrogen. In subsequent years useful action it will be much more noticeable from manure.

Horse dung

This type of organic fertilizer begins the decomposition process at a temperature of about +80°C. Rotting occurs much faster compared to other categories of manure. As a result, the most loose soil structure is formed.

Horse manure contains many more beneficial nutrients compared to mullein. It quickly warms up heavy and cold soils, which is especially important for cucumbers, which prefer well-warmed soil.

Feeding cucumbers

Fresh horse manure for cucumbers is recommended for soil treatment in autumn period. There should be about 5.5 kg of fertilizer per 1 m2. In the spring, when digging up the site, it is preferable to apply rotted manure under the cucumbers. Treatments with liquid manure are recommended during the flowering and ovary formation phases.

Knowing how to dilute horse manure to feed cucumbers, you need to place a bucket of organic fertilizer in a barrel and add 5 liters of water. The solution is left to infuse for 2 weeks, stirring occasionally. In order to enhance the effect of the fertilizer, it is allowed to add hay or leaves from trees underneath it. The finished product is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. Once the soil is moistened, liquid horse manure can be used on it.

In greenhouses and greenhouses, it is first necessary to remove the top soil layer. After this, horse manure is evenly distributed over the remaining soil and boiling water is poured over it generously to destroy any pathogens present. After this, a new layer of soil must be placed on top of the manure, which is carefully dug up and the beds are leveled.

Compost made from horse manure is of great benefit to cucumbers. To do this, a large container or pit is filled with waste of biological origin:

• sawdust;
• grass;
• leaves;
• tops, etc.

The resulting mixture is mixed with prepared manure. After this, the fertilizer is ready for use.

Bird droppings

Benefits for cucumbers

Among various categories bird droppings are the most effective. This type of organic fertilizer is characterized by a significant nitrogen content, which is necessary for cucumber and other plants for a full set of vegetative mass. It also contains phosphorus, calcium, potassium, magnesium, which are in an easily digestible and accessible form for plants.

Bird droppings

Chicken droppings also contain a number of microelements:

• manganese;
• sulfur;
• zinc;
• cobalt;
• copper.

In terms of its effectiveness, the application of bird droppings is comparable to complex mineral fertilizing.

Additional Information! In terms of phosphorus content, chicken manure significantly exceeds all other types of manure.

The effect of chicken manure on the soil lasts for several years. This is due to the fact that the trace elements that make up the substance take quite a long time to decompose.

This organic fertilizer has a positive effect on the soil structure, quickly dissolving in moist soil. Thanks to this, plant growth accelerates, and the yield of cucumbers increases by 20-40%.

Chicken manure effectively fights against yeast and mold fungi in the soil. By restoring the soil microflora with the help of bird manure, it is possible to reduce the number of weeds in the plot.

Feeding cucumbers

Chicken droppings of any breed cannot be used fresh as fertilizer, because this can cause burns to cucumbers. Instead, an infusion is most often prepared from it. The substance must be diluted with water in an equal ratio and left to ferment for 5-7 days. After this, before use, the finished concentrate is once again dissolved in water in a ratio of 1:20 and the soil in the bite sector is watered with the resulting product. There should be about 0.5-1 liters of the drug per plant. The resulting fertilizer is stored for 2-3 months.

Bird droppings promote good growth

Compost made from bird droppings is also highly effective. To prepare it, prepare a hole about a meter deep in advance. Its bottom is strewn with straw, sawdust or fallen leaves. Bird manure, straw, weeds, peat, and dried leaves are laid in layers on such a bedding. The process of preparing fertilizer takes about one and a half to two months. The finished product is used to prepare the soil for open areas, as well as in greenhouses and greenhouses.

In the dry extract state, it is possible to preserve fresh chicken droppings until spring. In this case, the fertilizer is spread in a thin layer on a plywood sheet and left to dry in the open air. hot weather for 3 hours. The resulting dung is thoroughly ground through a fine mesh until a powdery substance is formed. The resulting powder is poured into bags or barrels, where it can be stored all winter without loss of quality. When spring comes, it can be used while digging up the soil, adding 200 g of fertilizer per square meter of area.

Humus

Benefits for cucumbers

Humus

As a result of complete decomposition of manure in the soil, a homogeneous granular substance of brown-black color is formed, which is usually called humus (humus). This substance can manifest its useful qualities in any soil. Yes, on clay soils humus improves their structure, makes the soil loose and light. IN sandy soils The substance helps preserve moisture and nutrients as much as possible.

Manure that has been able to rot in the soil often acts as a natural mulch, which prevents the formation of a dense crust on the soil surface. Such soil will heat up quickly and retain heat for a long time, which is especially important for cucumbers and other heat-loving crops. Under the humus layer, it is easier for beneficial microorganisms and earthworms to grow and live, improving the structure of the soil. It can be more difficult for weeds to penetrate through this layer.

Feeding cucumbers

It is advisable to feed cucumbers with rotted manure in the spring. There should be about 4-5 kg ​​of fertilizer per square meter of area. The substance is evenly distributed over the surface of the plot and then the area is dug up, incorporating humus into the soil.

Important! E The effectiveness of this fertilizer is especially increased if manure has not been applied since the fall.

Vermicompost

Benefits for cucumbers

Vermicompost is a natural organic fertilizer. It is formed by processing organic matter by red Californian worms, which secrete coprolites - they are well absorbed by cucumbers and other plants.

Note! In terms of its nutritional composition, vermicompost is 5-8 times superior to any category of manure. The substance combines well with any fertilizer.

Vermicompost helps improve the taste of cucumbers, strengthens the immune system and helps withstand the stress experienced by the crop during planting. To others positive properties substances include:

• stimulation of root formation;
• assistance in the fight against disease;
• reduction of nitrate content in soil and crops;
• acceleration of seed germination and crop formation;
• increase in content useful substances in vegetables.

Feeding cucumbers

Using biohumus for cucumbers in liquid form is especially important when planting cucumber seeds. For this purpose, the fertilizer is diluted in water in a ratio of 1:20. The seed material is placed in the resulting solution for a day and left for a day.

Vermicompost

When the seeds are ready for sowing, vermicompost is used to treat the soil on the site. For irrigation, use a fertilizer solution and clean water in a ratio of 1:50. When digging the beds, fertilizer is applied in a dry state, with about 0.5 kg of vermicompost per square meter of area.

When planting cucumber seedlings, the hole must be fertilized with 100 g of vermicompost. After one and a half to two weeks, the first fertilizing is carried out with the same fertilizer in a liquid state, which is then repeated once every 1-1.5 weeks.

In order to fertilize cucumbers folk remedies has been beneficial, many gardeners and summer residents recommend the following:

1. Sprinkle soil around cucumber bushes after each watering wood ash– this will help not only feed the bushes, but also keep the soil moist, and also protect the plant from a number of diseases and weeds.
2. Use less common types of manure for feeding more widely, for example, rabbit manure.
3. Combine fertilizing with organic fertilizers with the application of mineral preparations, especially complex ones.

Proper use of manure and a number of other organic fertilizers helps to increase the quantity and quality of the cucumber harvest. If you know what kind of manure cucumbers like and follow all agrotechnical recommendations, the result will pleasantly surprise summer residents and gardeners.

We study the theory: feeding methods and fertilization

Many gardeners unknowingly add fertilizers to the soil right before planting seeds, but it is not recommended to carry out work at this time. And all because of the fact that culture big number mineral salts in the soil have a detrimental effect. The most suitable optionduring the preparation of the beds for cucumbersthe use of rotted manure is considered. The mixture is applied while digging the garden under the top layer of soil. In this case, manure will serve as an excellent soil heater, because moist and warm soil is what cucumbers need for development.

• How to water cucumbers correctly
• Four-horned dung fork

As for fertilizers, literally four feedings are enough over the summer. Organic or mineral fertilizers, the use of root and foliar methods - here each gardener must choose the most suitable method for him. However, it is advisable to combine methods. For example, root feeding is best suited for warm weather when the cucumber roots are well developed. If the weather is cloudy, it is best to use the foliar method by spraying the leaves of the plant.

Whatever method you choose, feed the cucumbers for the first time 15 days after planting, the second time at the beginning of flowering, and the third time during fruiting. If you want to extend the life of the plant, you can feed the cucumbers a fourth time.

The best fertilizer for cucumbers and the choice of feeding method

Cucumbers best accept organic and mineral fertilizers; chemicals they are quite cool. And despite the fact that even in poor conditions you will still get a harvest, you should use fertilizing, which will make the plant more resistant to disease.

Fertilizing with mineral fertilizers:

1. First root feeding. We take 5 g of ammophos per meter and distribute the fertilizer evenly over the beds. The incorporation of the preparation is carried out while loosening the soil.
2. The second feeding can be either root or foliar. In the first case, dilute 30 g in a 10 liter bucket of water ammonium nitrate and superphosphate and 20 g of potassium nitrate. In the second case, take 2 tablespoons of superphosphate per 10 liter bucket of water and spray the plant.
3. Third feeding (root). In a bucket of water (10 l) stir either 50 g of urea or two tablespoons of potassium nitrate.
4. Fourth feeding (foliar). For a 10 liter bucket of water we need 15 g of urea. After mixing the ingredients, spray the cucumber beds with the solution.

Use of organic fertilizers:

1. For the first feeding, slurry is best suited - one liter of solution per 8 liters of water, or comfrey infusion in a ratio of 1:5.
2. For the second feeding, ash is suitable as a fertilizer: take a glass of ash in a 10-liter bucket of water, stir it and apply it under the roots of the cucumber.
3. To carry out the third root feeding, purchase the drug “Gumi”: for a 10-liter bucket of water, 2 tablespoons of the drug are enough.
4. The fourth feeding should be foliar. To carry out the work, the spraying solution is prepared in advance. Fill the rotted hay with water in a 1:1 ratio, leave the mixture for two days, and only after that can you spray the plants. This will not only extend the growing season, but will also protect your plantings from diseases such as powdery mildew.

Some tips for summer residents:

• In order not to burn the plants themselves, it is best to water the cucumbers with a watering can without a sprayer, pouring the solution between the plants;
• It is advisable to fertilize in cloudy weather.

Knowing which fertilizer is best for cucumbers, you can rejuvenate the plants, preventing the appearance of yellow spots on the leaves, this will also help you improve photosynthesis.

Combining out root feeding By using humus and pine needles under the root system of cucumbers, you will significantly extend the fruiting period.

Fertilizers for cucumbers in a greenhouse: from theory to practice

Feeding plants in a greenhouse is somewhat different from the technique used when working with cucumbers in open ground. It is also carried out several times, and it is important to observe the normalization and dosage of fertilizer application. For example, cucumbers do not tolerate an abundance of chemicals and organic fertilizers, which can disrupt their growth and development of fruits. Thus, when moving cucumber seedlings to the greenhouse, fertilizers are used in small doses.

You can also prepare the soil in advance, which should consist of manure and turf soil. The mixture is prepared quite simply: a layer of turf up to 15 cm thick is mixed with a layer of manure 25–30 cm thick, sprinkled with phosphate rock. When working with acidic soil, be sure to add lime. Plants planted in such soil will grow much faster, receiving all the nutrients they need.

If work is carried out in greenhouses or greenhouses that have just been put into operation, gardeners recommend layer-by-layer application of organic matter and soil mixture. First, manure is applied at the rate of 30 kg per square meter and the soil is dug up to a depth of 25 cm. Fresh manure on wood residues is applied to the prepared layer - such a mixture will provide excellent drainage and improve nutrition of plant roots. After this, you can apply mineral fertilizers.

Despite the fact that the frequency of fertilizing is approximately two weeks, it is advisable to monitor the condition of the plants - if you see that your cucumbers are developing normally even without fertilizers, you can wait a little before adding additional funds. Understanding what fertilizers are needed for cucumbers, do not forget that an excess of such substances can have a bad effect on both the plant itself and the yield.

nasotke.ru

Soil preparation as the key to a rich harvest of cucumbers

Since cucumbers are crops that are demanding on soil fertility, in order to get a rich harvest, it is best to worry about preparing the site for planting in advance. Loamy or sandy loamy loose soils are best suited for cucumbers; acidic and heavy ones are unsuitable for this crop. Cucumbers require neutral or, at least, weak acidic soil. Therefore, preparing the soil for planting cucumbers should begin with determining its acidity.

Scheme of growing cucumbers in a greenhouse.

Soil acidity assessment

Soil acidity is expressed by pH. Thus, the soil with a neutral reaction necessary for planting cucumbers must have a pH equal to 7. What smaller number pH, the more acidic the soil and the less suitable for cucumbers. A higher pH is an indicator of alkaline soil, which is also not suitable for this crop.

Soil acidity can be analyzed in a specialized laboratory. This analysis is carried out using a special device, widely known as the Alyamovsky device. Having purchased such a device, an amateur gardener, using the instructions supplied with it, will be able to independently analyze the soil at his summer cottage.

There is a more trivial and accessible way for every amateur gardener to assess acidity using litmus paper. This paper is sold in stores that sell chemicals. The “secret” of this method is as follows: a 30-centimeter vertical cut of the soil is made with a shovel. The earth is moistened with distilled or rain water, and then part of the mixture is squeezed in the hand together with litmus paper. The color of litmus paper is compared with a standard control scale, and the acidity of the soil is determined by matching the color.

In the absence of an Alyamovsky device and litmus paper, you can roughly estimate the acidity by looking at the weeds growing in the area where the cucumbers are to be planted. Peculiar indicators of acidic soil are plantain, horsetail, speedwell, pikulnik, sedge, horse sorrel, mint, creeping buttercup, wood lice, fireweed, and heather. In such an area, the acidity of the soil must be reduced before planting cucumbers. If creeping wheatgrass, field bindweed, coltsfoot, thistle, odorless chamomile and clover grow well on the site, then the soil is either neutral or has a slight level of acid and is quite suitable for fastidious cucumbers.

Application of fertilizers and other substances

Preparing the site for planting cucumbers begins in the fall. To saturate the soil layer with minerals, it is necessary to apply fertilizers. If it is slightly acidic, it is best to use liquid alkaline organic fertilizers. To neutralize the increased acidity of the soil at the site, it is limed by adding various substances, including slaked lime, dolomite flour, cement dust, chalk, defecate or ash.

With the arrival of the first warm spring days, the ground must be dug up to a depth of at least 25 centimeters. After this, the top, approximately 12 centimeters, layer of soil is thoroughly mixed with a rake with a layer of humus collected in the fall. High-quality humus is real “gold” for a gardener and the key to a future harvest. To prepare it, you can use all kinds of organic matter, for example, sawdust, dried grass, fallen leaves, straw, manure, pieces of paper, and so on. After watering, the area chosen for growing cucumbers is covered with film for several days so that the soil warms up to at least 150 C.

If soil preparation for some reason did not start in the fall, then a simplified version of spring activities is needed. In this case, the application of lime materials must be excluded; it is allowed to apply liquid alkaline organic fertilizers and an increased dose of humus at least a week before sowing seeds or planting seedlings.

Preparing beds for cucumbers

Sowing seeds or planting seedlings should be done only when the threat of frost has passed.

In order to get a guaranteed harvest of cucumbers, it is best to grow them at a higher elevation, where the roots of the heat-loving crop are well heated and protected from excess moisture. That is why, at least a week before sowing seeds or planting seedlings, it is necessary to form beds so that the earth settles somewhat. When setting up a site for growing cucumbers, it is optimal to make several beds 20-30 cm high, depending on the type of soil: the heavier it is, the more height

beds. The width of the paths formed between the beds should be at least 0.5 meters. In addition, when using a vertical type of cultivation, in which cucumbers are woven along a net fixed to a special frame, it is necessary to place the beds in such a way that the nets do not block each other.

When preparing the beds in advance, they need to be watered and weeds removed, since cucumbers cannot tolerate their presence.

ParnikiTeplicy.ru

Feeding cucumbers in a greenhouse: some practical tips For getting good harvest

greenhouse cucumbers, it is necessary not only to strictly maintain the temperature and humidity conditions in the greenhouse, but also to provide the plants with all the nutrients necessary for their life and fruiting. Cucumbers are plants with a very high growth and ripening rate, but at the same time, they have a rather weak one, which is why the price of most mistakes is quite high - a loss in the quality and quantity of the harvest obtained.

The following minerals are most important for optimal growth and fruiting of cucumbers:

• nitrogen;
• potassium;
• phosphorus.

Before moving on to the consideration of fertilizing necessary for cucumbers grown in a greenhouse, we will consider how to prepare the soil in a greenhouse for growing this vegetable crop.

Preparing soil in a greenhouse

Autumn preparation

After the harvest has been harvested in the fall, it is very important to thoroughly clean the greenhouse of plant debris and dig up the soil.

For disinfection, all metal, wooden parts, glass in greenhouses must be treated with a solution of bleach, which is diluted at the rate 300 g per 10 liters of water, after which they insist for about 3-4 hours. Water part the solution is used for spraying, and the sediment is used for treating cracks.

Then the soil must be dug up, adding 1 bucket of rotted manure, humus or compost per square meter. After which, on 1m2, add 300-500 g dolomite flour or fluff lime to reduce soil acidity.

Spring training

In the spring, the soil in the greenhouse is dug up again, adding:

• 20-30g ammonium nitrate;
• 20g potassium sulfate;
• 20-30g superphosphate.

Fertilizers must be applied at least a week before planting cucumbers in the greenhouse. (See How to choose the right fertilizer for cucumbers)

After the soil in the greenhouse has been fertilized and dug up, it must be thoroughly watered with warm water, possibly with a small amount of potassium permanganate ( 1-3g per 10 liters of water), then cover with a thick transparent film, which is removed only before planting.

Let's take a closer look at when and how to feed cucumbers in a greenhouse so that the harvest at the end of the season will please you with its quality and quantity.

Fertilizing greenhouse cucumbers

Cucumbers grown in a greenhouse are fed for summer season 4-5 times. During the development of shoots and leaves, this vegetable crop needs nitrogen fertilizers. During the flowering and fruit set phase, cucumbers must be fed with fertilizers high in phosphorus. During active fruiting, cucumbers need potassium and nitrogen fertilizers.

Based on the nutritional needs of cucumbers, it is necessary to plan and carry out feeding of cucumbers in the greenhouse various types fertilizers

Important: any fertilizing in a greenhouse or greenhouse should be applied in small quantities, since cucumbers do not tolerate excess fertilizers well. It is best to feed cucumbers with aqueous solutions of fertilizers, which are more easily absorbed by plants. It is better to underfeed this crop than to overfeed it with fertilizers.

Root feeding

The first fertilizing of cucumbers in the greenhouse is carried out when the plants already have 3 and 4 true leaves. For this feeding, the following is diluted in 10 liters of water:

• 20-25 g double superphosphate;
• 15-20g of potassium sulfate, or 10-15g of potassium chloride;
• 10-15g ammonium nitrate.

The resulting working solution is used to feed 10-15 plants.

The next feeding of cucumbers in a greenhouse or greenhouse is carried out 15-20 days after the first application of fertilizers, since it is at this time that the plants begin to bloom en masse and form ovaries.

For this feeding, it is better to use organic fertilizers such as bird droppings or mullein. 0.5 liters of liquid mullein and 1 tbsp. A spoonful of nitrophoska is dissolved in 10 liters of water. It is advisable to add to this solution:

• 1 glass of ash or 50g of potassium sulfate;
• 0.5 g boric acid;
• 0.3 g manganese sulfate.

Water the plants according to 3l working solution for each 1m2.

Advice: if you do not have any organic fertilizers, then a second feeding can be done mineral fertilizers: You just need to increase the amount of potassium and reduce the amount of nitrogen fertilizers.

A couple of weeks after the second feeding, a third feeding is carried out. For it, dissolve 1-2 tbsp. spoons and ½ spoon of liquid mullein in 10 liters of water. The prepared solution is consumed at 7-8 liters per square meter.

The fourth feeding can be done after 14 days with the same solution.

Throughout the growing season, you need to continue fertilizing the cucumbers, preferably combining watering (See Watering cucumbers in a greenhouse) and fertilizing, at least once a week. Fertilizing cucumbers in greenhouses can be done with both organic and humic fertilizers, for example, sodium humate.

Foliar feeding

When thinking about what and how to feed cucumbers in a greenhouse, it is worth considering a system of foliar feeding.

In addition to complex fertilizers, you need to add a complex of microelements to solutions for foliar feeding. You can use ready-made complex fertilizers or prepare them yourself.

For 10 liters of water take:

• superphosphate – 60g;
• potassium nitrate – 30g:
• boric acid – 1g;
• manganese sulfate – 0.4g;
• zinc sulfate – 0.1 g.

Advice: you can carry out foliar feeding with a 1.5% urea solution, diluting 150 g in 10 liters of water.

The video feeding cucumbers in a greenhouse will help you understand this issue in more detail.

Signs of mineral deficiency or excess

Cucumbers react quite quickly to a lack or excessive amount of certain nutrients.

If plants begin to lag behind in development and growth, fruits set and develop poorly, then in this way they “signal” insufficient or improper nutrition.

Nitrogen

If the soil has insufficient nitrogen content, then:

• cucumber fruits become, regardless of the variety, light green in color;
• the top of the fruit, where the flower was, is very narrow and sharp, and can take on a “beak-like” shape;
• the old leaves of the lower level turn yellow;
• the growth of side shoots and the stems themselves slows down.

Important: before you start applying nitrogen-containing fertilizers, analyze whether you are watering the cucumbers regularly and sufficiently. When the soil dries out, beneficial microorganisms living in the soil become less active and plants cannot obtain nitrogen in a form available to them.

If signs of nitrogen starvation are detected that cucumbers show in a greenhouse, fertilizing can be carried out both root and foliar aqueous solution urea or ammonium sulfate, dissolving 10-15 g of the drug in 10 liters of water.

If a lack of nitrogen appears during active fruit ripening, then it is better than feeding cucumbers in a greenhouse chemicals, fertilize with “green tea” or “herbal tea”.

Tip: to prepare “green stuff”, various weeds from the area are finely chopped and filled with water. For 10 liters of water you will need 1.5-2 kg of green mass. Chopped grass, filled with water, is left for fermentation for a week, after which it can be used to feed cucumbers.

"Zelenka" or "herbal tea"

Potassium

Excessive application of nitrogen fertilizers at the beginning of the season can provoke potassium starvation in cucumbers in the second half of summer.

Potassium deficiency manifests itself:

• excessive development and growth of vines and leaves;
• change in leaf color to dark green;
• the edges of the leaves of the lower tier begin to lighten, a yellowish border appears, which you can see in the photo;

• the fruits are pear-shaped.

To eliminate the lack of potassium, you can carry out both root and foliar feeding with an aqueous solution of potassium sulfate, or root feeding of cucumbers with a solution of wood ash.

Phosphorus

When plants lack phosphorus, they:

• the growth of lateral branches and leaves slows down;
• new leaves are much smaller in size than old ones;
• The color of new leaves is darker and they dry out quickly.

To eliminate phosphorus deficiency, you can use solutions of ammophos and diammophos, or dilute 1 tbsp. spoon of superphosphate in 10 liters of water and root fertilize the cucumbers.

Thus, as you understand, there is simply no single and suitable instruction for all situations that arise when growing cucumbers in a greenhouse. It is necessary to carefully monitor the growth and condition of the plants, and make a decision about what to feed cucumbers in a greenhouse or greenhouse based on this.

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Fertilizers for cucumbers in a greenhouse: which ones to choose, when and how to fertilize

Cucumber is a crop that has very high high requirements to soil fertility. In order for a good harvest of cucumbers to form in a greenhouse, abundant and varied feeding with nutrients will be required.

Let's consider how such fertilizing is carried out at different periods of cucumber development.

Stages of feeding cucumbers depending on their growth periods

There are the following stages of feeding for cucumbers:

1. Feeding at the stage of seedling germination: preparing the soil for seedlings; after the first leaf appears on the sprout; after the second leaf appears on the sprout; two weeks after the first feeding.
2. Feeding before transplanting seedlings into beds. The transplant is severe stress for immature cucumber plants, therefore, a few days before this procedure, it is advisable to spray them with a solution of microelements and feed them.
3. Feeding during the growth and flowering period.
4. Feeding during the fruiting period.

Before transplanting into beds, seedlings should be sprayed with a solution of microelements and fed

At each of the above growth periods, feeding cucumbers has its own characteristics.

Feeding cucumber seedlings

Cucumber seedlings are grown in boxes for a month, and then the sprouted seedlings are planted in a greenhouse. But if the greenhouse is made of polycarbonate and is well heated, then there is no need to pre-plant the seedlings. It is planted directly in the greenhouse, selecting a certain area, and then distributed among the beds. To ensure the most comfortable conditions for seedlings, the crops are additionally covered with PE film.

Cucumber seedlings are fed with solutions of a mixture of superphosphate, cow dung and ammonium nitrate

Since cucumber seeds are planted at a not very deep depth, the substances necessary for plant growth hardly reach it from the soil. Therefore, you need to prepare good compost for the top layer of soil for seedlings. It is also a good idea to add regular manure to the soil for seedlings at a rate of 6 to 8 kg per 1 sq.m with the addition of one glass of ash to this volume.

Cucumber seedlings are fed with solutions of a mixture of superphosphate, cow dung and ammonium nitrate, which, although very useful for the plant, is a source of nitrates that are dangerous to humans. There are special fertilizers for cucumbers that do not contain nitrate nitrogen. In general, sprouted cucumber seedlings are fed only three times in accordance with the above division into periods of its growth.

Feeding during the growth and flowering of cucumbers

Cucumbers that have not yet bloomed or bear fruit need to be fed with nitrogen, phosphorus and calcium fertilizers, and also to some extent with potassium.

Greenhouse cucumbers should be fed up to five times during the entire growth period.

Nitrogen fertilizers (preferably without containing nitrate nitrogen) are needed by cucumbers during almost all periods of their development and growth, but especially in the initial period of the growing season, so that leaves are formed. Fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers is carried out in three ways:

• method of root feeding by watering,
• by foliar feeding by spraying,
• method of drip irrigation of plants.

Cucumbers are fed little by little with phosphorus, but constantly, since without it the root system does not grow normally and does not function, green mass does not increase, and fruits do not set or ripen normally. Correct and timely payment Phosphorus in fertilizers helps the formation of cucumber flowers.

Cucumbers need potassium, since if it is deficient, nutrients do not move well from the root system to other parts of the plant and normal vegetation does not occur.

If the cucumbers develop well, then you can feed them only twice.

Greenhouse cucumbers should be fed up to five times during the entire growth period. The first thing before the beginning of the flowering stage is feeding with a solution of mullein in the volume of a glass per bucket of water, with the addition of superphosphate, as well as potassium sulfate in the mixture, in the amount of one teaspoon per glass of dissolved mullein.

Subsequent stages of feeding are done at intervals of up to two weeks. The proportion of mullein per bucket of water is reduced to half a glass, and instead of superphosphate and potassium sulfate, nitrophoska in a volume of 1 tbsp is taken per glass of mullein solution. spoons.

If cucumbers develop well with healthy appearance and abundant fruiting, then you can feed them only twice: for the first time - before flowering, for the second time - at the beginning of the fruiting period.

Instead of mullein (bird droppings), you can take ready-made fertilizers, such as “Breadwinner”, “Ideal” and “Fertility”.

When cucumbers actively bear fruit, increase the amount of potassium applied with fertilizers, while simultaneously reducing the amount of nitrogen

Feeding during fruiting period

Cucumbers with fruits already need a completely different composition of fertilizing; it should contain more magnesium, nitrogen and potassium (for example, based on potassium nitrate). It is when cucumbers are actively bearing fruit that they increase the amount of potassium applied with fertilizers, while simultaneously reducing the amount of nitrogen.

The most valuable fertilizer for cucumbers during the fruiting period is potassium nitrate. In addition to the fact that feeding it has a beneficial effect on the growth and development of the entire plant, it also improves the taste of cucumbers, removing bitterness. The latter mainly appears due to small amounts of applied mineral fertilizers. Cucumbers also become bitter if there is an excess of potassium and phosphorus and there is a lack of nitrogen in the soil.

It is advisable to apply fertilizing compounds after all measures have been taken to destroy cucumber pests.

An excess of phosphorus leads to general yellowing, the appearance of bright necrotic spots and leaf drop.

Consequences of violations in fertilizer dosage

An excess of fertilizers, along with their lack, leads to the fact that the nutrition of cucumbers is disrupted. The signs of an excess of any fertilizer are very similar to the external signs of a lack of other elements.

• When there is an excess of nitrogen, delayed flowering occurs. A cucumber plant overfed with nitrogen fertilizers is characterized by a thick stem and many dark green dense leaves.
• An excess of phosphorus leads to general yellowing, the appearance of bright necrotic spots and leaf drop.
• An excess of potassium interferes with the supply of nitrogen and leads to stunted growth of the entire plant.
• Excess calcium causes the appearance of pale necrotic spots on the leaves - interveinal chlorosis.

Feeding cucumbers (video)

As you can see, fertilizing cucumbers in a greenhouse is an urgent necessity. The main thing in this matter is to know what and when to give cucumbers, and then they will bountiful harvest will definitely please you.