What year do strawberries begin to bear fruit? Strawberries: growing and care

Strawberries are the queen of berries! It is long-awaited for every gardener. The vegetative period has 2 waves: in spring and summer after the first harvest.

For successful cultivation strawberries, you need to choose the right site, variety, seedlings, observe crop rotation, planting method and be prepared to fight pests and diseases.

Soil and place for growing strawberries. Strawberries grow best on chernozem, loamy and sandy soil, on dark gray forest soils on southwestern small slopes.

The yield will be worse on light gray, peaty, clay, sandy or soddy-podzolic soil, in a lowland. , it is necessary that the pH was 5 - 6.5. Level ground water should be at least 60 cm, and the soil in winter at a depth of 15-20 cm did not freeze to -8 ° C.

How to prepare a plot for planting strawberries

The Colorado potato beetle, strawberry nematode and others will not refuse such a delicacy as strawberries. Before planting, it is better to check the area for the presence of their larvae. After the snow melts and the soil dries up, collect all the remains of vegetation, burn it. If there are many larvae, then alkaloid lupine is planted, the larvae die from it, or the soil is treated with ammonia water (20 kg per 1 hundred square meters). It is possible to clear the area from cereal weeds in autumn with the composition of Roundup (2.5-3 liters per 1 ha). Plow the ground in October to a depth of 25-30 cm. In the spring they are harrowed and cultivated immediately before planting to a depth of 15 cm.

How to determine the quality of seedlings for planting strawberries

The best seedlings are considered to be those with a root collar in diameter of more than 6 mm, and root system fibrous, more than 7 cm in root processes. Seedlings should have 3-5 leaves, a whole apical bud and juicy roots white color 3-5 cm long.

Strawberry seedlings, obtained on the side or selected on the spot, need to be planted faster. If, for some reason, planting is delayed, then the seedlings can be stored for 2-3 days dug in a moist loose earth in a shady place or a cold room (basement, cellar), wrapping the roots in wet moss.

How to plant strawberries

Planting strawberry seedlings in early spring(as early as possible) or very early autumn. Autumn planting is carried out from August 10 to September 25, after moistening the soil well. Do not delay planting, as later spring or autumn planting significantly reduce yield. There is an opinion that you can plant strawberries in summer time, July-August, two-line method. Then on the selected site in the spring you can grow early vegetables. But in the south of Russia and Ukraine, there is little precipitation in the summer-autumn period, and the air and soil temperatures are so high that no shading and watering can give the desired effect. Planted plants quickly wither and die.

5 days before planting, the seedlings are kept in a cool place, immediately before planting, the roots are dipped in a clay mash for better survival in order to avoid drying out. Planted in moist, but not wet soil. During planting, the box with seedlings should be in the shade. If the root system is too long, then shorten it to 7-10 cm.

To protect against rapid drying of the soil and the formation of a crust, the wells of watered plants should be sprinkled with earth, and even better - with humus. After planting, the soil on the site is compacted, it should be loosened to give free access to water and air to the roots of plants. If the weather is dry, watering should be repeated as needed.
Clay mash recipe:

• Pour 1/2 bucket of orange clay with water to slightly cover the clay, leave to infuse.
• After a while it will be a creamy mass.
• If the lumps of clay have not completely dissolved in the water, then mix the mass several times so that the water can completely absorb all the lumps.

Ways to grow strawberries in the country

Growing strawberries in rows using the row method

With this placement, 600 to 670 seedlings are required per 100 m2.

Any time for planting strawberries can be chosen, except for winter. In the spring, strawberries are planted as early as possible, in early April, since if you plant them in May, the development will be much slower. If planted in July-August, it will be possible to harvest the next season. The last date for planting strawberries can be considered mid-September.

1 - two-line; 2 - single line; 3 - two-line on the ridges

For planting, cloudy and damp weather is chosen. You can plant with a single-line method, two-line or two-line in the beds. The most optimal is a two-line planting, where the distance between plants is 15-20 cm, between ribbons (rows) 60-70 cm, between lines 30 cm. With a single-line planting method, the following distances are observed: between plants 15-20 cm, between lines 60-70 see. Place the beds from north to south, plant 2 rows of strawberry seedlings along the edges.

Planting strawberries on small areas follows the cord. To do this, at two opposite ends of the plot, using a tape measure, you need to make marks for future rows-lines. In the marked places, put the pegs and pull the cord for every two opposite pegs. Using a stick measuring 25 cm near the cord, mark the places for planting plants in a row. On the same side of the cord, make holes with a bayonet, and on loose soil with ripper cats or hands. A liter of water is poured into the hole. When the water is absorbed into the soil, the roots of the seedlings are placed in the resulting mud and they are well covered with mud, the holes are covered with dry earth, which then must be tightly compressed. The holes should be of such depth that the roots of the plants do not bend when planting. Before planting, it is necessary to inspect each strawberry bush and remove plants with diseased leaves and roots. For seedlings intended for planting, the roots should be shortened somewhat, leaving them 5-7 cm long. This will contribute to more strong development lateral roots.

To protect strawberries from pests, dirt and decay, place a roofing material or lutrasil on the ground, making holes in it 25-30 cm wide from each other (cut the canvas crosswise with a knife and bend the corners into the soil).

Make a hole with a bayonet shovel and arrange the seedlings so that the heart is flush with the surface of the soil. If the heart (growth point) is deep, it will rot; if it is high, it will freeze from the cold in winter.

1 - correct;
2 - wrong (deep);
3 - incorrect (high)

Sprinkle the roots with earth and compact a little. Water at the rate of 0.5 liters per plant and so on for 7-10 days until it takes root. Be sure to mulch after watering. It is important that the roots, when planting, are located freely in the hole and the earth fits snugly against them. With such a planting, a plant pulled by a leaf does not pull out. If the roots are not tightly pressed against the ground, then the plant takes root more slowly and may die.

Do not leave covering material on the site for the next year, since ants will create colonies under it, which will be extremely difficult to fight - the plants will die.

In dry hot weather, plants are shaded with green branches or burlap, after watering they are mulched so that the soil does not take on a crust. In November, strawberries are covered if there is no snow cover yet.

Growing strawberries under cover (film tunnels)

Shelter allows plants to develop faster, ripen several weeks earlier than plants planted in open ground. Usually grown like this early varieties strawberries. The simplest shelters are film tunnels. Strawberries cover the 1st and 2nd year of fruiting. Install tunnels in late April-early May: install wire arcs placed at a distance of 1 meter from each other, up to half a meter high from the ground. Deepen the ends into the soil and fix the film on them. The film may sag on the side and top, so the arcs should be secured with twine. Film tunnels need to be ventilated from time to time, watered, mulched and harvested, which means that one side must be made deaf, sprinkled with earth or laid heavy objects on the edges of the film, on the other side, attach a rail to the film. At the end of the shelter, collect the film, tie it in a knot, tie it to pegs, which you then dig into the ground.

It is not difficult to take care of strawberries in film tunnels, place a thermometer in a shelter, if the temperature inside the structure rises above 25 ° C, then you need to urgently ventilate it. When the weather is good and the strawberries are in bloom, the shelter is removed for the day. When the crop is harvested, the film is removed.

• In summer, water strawberries once a week early in the morning. warm water. Weed the beds periodically. Fertilize plants and watch out for pests on strawberries.
• In autumn, strawberries are covered with straw, spruce branches, corn stalks or fallen leaves (spunbond or lutrasil is also suitable). If there is no such covering material, then spud the bushes without sprinkling growth points. Immediately apply compost, peat or a mixture of them as fertilizers.

Growing strawberries in vertical beds

Cultivation takes place in a multi-tiered arrangement of containers. This method can be used both in open and in closed ground in cases where the soil is infertile, heavy, with high level groundwater, near fences and various buildings. An undoubted advantage is the possibility of a large number of harvest at small area landing.

as containers for vertical cultivation strawberries use any design of cone-shaped and pyramidal shapes, 10 cm high. Containers should be placed in such a way that there is a distance of at least 10 cm between plants, and the volume for each root system is at least 1.5 liters. Containers are filled with a mixture in equal proportions of peat, humus and soddy soil, you can use peat and soddy soil in a ratio of 2:1 and a little sand.

Having prepared containers and freshly dug strawberry seedlings, planting begins from the lower tier. Such strawberries need regular watering with warm water (2-3 times a week, 200-300 g for each bush), fertilizing is carried out (combined with watering) and mustache removal.

Plants are protected from frost by:

• The containers are removed and placed on the ground, covered with agrofibre, leaves or peat.
• If frost intensifies, the “insulation” layer is also increased, plus covered with a layer of snow, trying to keep the temperature inside above 6 ° C.

Growing strawberries under agrofibre

Thus, berries can be obtained in more early dates, for about a week. When the snow melts, the strawberry bushes are covered with agrofiber, which allows you to create a good temperature inside for the growth and development of plants, and also protects against temporary frosts and winds. When weather conditions become stable, the material is removed.

You can get a crop 2 weeks earlier than usual, you can also use a tunnel under the agrofibre. Long wire frames 2 m long are set in an arc along the rows of strawberries at a distance of 1 m from each other, using a wire 4-6 mm thick. They are deepened into the ground to a depth of 25-30 cm, fastened from above and covered with agrofiber in April, burying the ends in the ground. If the weather is warm, slightly open the ends of the agrofiber for ventilation. If the weather is completely settled, then the material can be opened completely. Close with agrofibre immediately after the plants fade.

An efficient way to grow strawberries from seeds

This is an interesting method that is not suitable for every strawberry variety, and especially not for hybrid varieties.

Prepare a container or box at least 10 cm deep, fill it halfway with purchased seedling soil, water well. Spread the strawberry seeds and cover the box with glass. Attention: you do not need to cover the seeds with soil! Put the box in a warm place, the soil will be moist, and when the first shoots appear, move it to the brightest place. Remove the glass from the box. When a few true leaves appear, pot out and fertilize every two weeks with strawberry fertilizer. As the seedlings grow up, they can be transplanted into open ground in the country. In order for growing strawberries from seeds to end with a good harvest, it is important to follow some more rules: plant seedlings shallowly, you can’t fill up the apical bud. Strawberries not planted deep enough can expose the roots when watered.

How to Harvest Strawberry Seeds: To grow strawberries from seed, use only the largest berries, which are harvested in July-August. With a blade, remove a thin layer of the berry and rub it on the fabric. Dry in the sun, clean the seeds and collect in paper bag. Store for planting at room temperature.

For growing strawberries from seeds, pay attention to such varieties as: Mutofavorit, Bogota, Lakomka, Sakhalinskaya and others. So that you can enjoy strawberries all the time, select varieties with different ripening periods.

How to water strawberries

1. Strawberries are watered from a watering can. This irrigation method is suitable for small beds with landings.
2. Watering strawberries from a hose is a minimum of physical effort, but it takes a lot of time, water is unevenly distributed, it is possible to damage seedlings and you cannot pour warm water, as strawberries love.
3. The presence of a well or well on the site also takes place.
4. Drip irrigation from manufacturers of irrigation systems - food (water) is supplied directly to the root system. Suitable for growing strawberries in a bag or container way, as the system is installed in a pipe break. For ordinary beds a system that is installed in the side surface or at the ends of the pipe is suitable. "Factory" drip irrigation is also good because, together with water, plants can be fed with fertilizers (fertigation). Among the shortcomings are the cost and the inability to protect plants from frost.
5. Sprinkling with sprinklers: circular, fan, swinging, rotary and other types. But here it is desirable to use warm water.
6. By furrows: before planting, make furrows, water well and plant seedlings in the walls of the furrow, depending on how much row planting.

You can determine the level of soil moisture as follows: with a shovel, dig the soil to the depth of the roots and take soil samples, squeeze in your hand and determine by touch how moist the soil is.

strawberry care

Remove weeds and any pests you see, loosen the soil after watering or compacting. If in the year of planting the soil was supplied with organic matter and mineral fertilizers, then strawberries do not need additional feeding. If not, then in the spring, when digging, you need to add 15 g of ammonium nitrate, superphosphate and potassium salt, 30 g and 10 g, respectively, per 1 sq. M.

Winter care for strawberries

Chic snow cover will be an excellent means of protecting plants from frost. The layer should be from 10 to 20 cm. In the absence of snow and mulch in the form of straw at a temperature of -12-16 ° C, the plants may die.

Development of strawberries in later years

Second year after planting

In the spring, when you see young shoots of strawberries among the foliage, remove the shelter, remove the yellowed and dried leaves (burn them), as they could overwinter different kinds pathogens and pests. Do not touch last year's green foliage, it will nourish the plant and protect the buds from spring frosts.

Let the soil dry out so that you can loosen the aisles well. Then just water and loosen. When the ovary is formed, lay out sawdust, straw or peat, such a mulch will serve to retain moisture and protect it from rotting and bending to the ground during the fruiting period.

That's it, now we are harvesting and waiting for the strawberries to begin to “throw out” their mustaches. Inspect the beds every week, running the whiskers into the rows of strawberries to compact them. In one season, an adult strawberry bush should have 3-5 young shoots. With greater thickening next year, the yield will fall, the berries will become smaller, and diseases will develop more. Remove the weakest whiskers, they will drink juice from the plant, which can be directed to the development of stronger ones. Before winter, cover strawberry bushes with spruce branches, straw or other covering material.

Third and fourth year after planting strawberries

Here, care will be the same, it consists in regularly removing all mustaches (the bushes no longer need to be compacted), if necessary, remove foliage at the end of the season and regularly spud adventitious roots (near the soil surface).

In the spring, remove the covering material, remove the yellowed leaves, let the soil dry out, loosen the aisles, removing weeds. Mulch during flowering. Harvest the first crop, spud the bushes so as not to cover the growth point with earth (development slows down). Hilling favorably affects the development of adventitious roots. We cover for the winter.

Remontant strawberry varieties grow well not only in areas with a warm climate. They can be grown in the Moscow region, in the Urals and even in Siberia. They do not stop fruiting even after the onset of frost.

"Elizabeth II"

'Elizabeth II' is a large-fruited and well transportable variety that produces three crops a year. The first ripens in June, the second - in July, the third - by the end of August. Under favorable weather conditions, you can get another crop, which is harvested until October. berries attractive appearance, with dense pulp of saturated red color. Fruits that ripen in autumn are not as tasty and fragrant as summer ones. In this variety, the fruits begin to ripen at the end of May due to the formation of buds in early spring. Thus, the growing season of the plant is at least eight months.

"Gigantella"

Another year-round variety is Gigantella. Its cultivation has its own characteristics - this variety does not tolerate a lack of moisture and gives high yields only with regular watering. "Gigantella" is good to grow in greenhouses, where it is easier to maintain the necessary microclimate and high humidity. The bushes are large, powerful, grow to a height of more than 35 centimeters. The berries are very large, just gigantic, regular in shape, with protruding seeds, sweet. The first berries can reach a mass of 80-100 g and 9 centimeters in diameter. In terms of fruiting, this is also May-October.

"Albion"

Strawberry variety "Albion" is ideal for protected ground. The growing season is 9 months. At the end of May, the fruits begin to ripen. Harvest - until the end of October. The berries are conical, shiny, dark red color. The taste and aroma are very intense. This variety is considered the best because it has twice as many flavor compounds as other varieties. In addition, it is particularly resistant to pests and diseases.

"Selva"

The most profitable is the year-round strawberry variety "Selva". It is the most prolific, surpasses all other varieties in terms of the number of crops and the number of berries. Drought tolerant. Suitable for both and open ground. It has bright red berries weighing up to 45 g. This variety can be left unattended for a long time, because the abundance of foliage suppresses weeds, and drought resistance helps to avoid frequent watering. But in terms of its taste qualities, Selva is slightly inferior to other year-round varieties.

Remontant varieties of strawberries are in demand among all lovers of this plant. This is due to the ability to receive several crops per year from one bush. The first harvest in this case will ripen in July. The largest harvest can be obtained at the end of summer - it is at this time that 60 to 90% of the berries fall. Such strawberries are easily grown on the balcony, in pots and can proper care fruit all year round at home.

What is a remontant strawberry, how is it different from others?

Remontant is the ability of some plants to bloom and produce crops several times a year. After the first ripening of the fruit, flower buds are again tied. Such bushes often have a weaker leaf system, but the berries are very large.

Peculiarities! If the second harvest is more important, it is worth sacrificing the first. To do this, it is enough to cut the first flower stalks. This technique will preserve the bush's capacity for abundant fruiting at the end of summer.

Remontant strawberries are grown in greenhouses, and even on the balcony. So you can get abundant and constant fruiting even from 2 - 3 bushes growing in pots.

Features of remontant garden strawberries

• Fruits are tied not only on mother plants, but also on young plants;
• Most varieties are large-fruited (all fruits from 50 to 100 grams);
• Rapid aging of bushes;
• Some large-fruited varieties next year the berries may become smaller.

To ensure constant fruiting throughout the season, it is worth combining remontant and ordinary varieties.

Photo of remontant strawberries

Queen Elizabeth 2

Alexandri

Baron Solemacher

Types of remontant strawberries

Repairability garden strawberries directly depends on the time when the buds are laid on the bushes. More precisely, from the length of daylight hours. In most varieties, buds are laid in the fall. At this time, daylight hours are shortened. At remontant varieties flower buds are laid regardless of the length of daylight hours. In the same year, by the end of summer, the bushes bear fruit for the second time.

Reference! Remontant strawberries form flower buds during neutral daylight hours. These are the so-called NSD varieties.

For remontant varieties, the stages of care should be calculated for the changed vegetative period.

long daylight hours

Remontant strawberries of a long daylight hours lay flower buds with a daylight hours of 16 hours.

This happens in mid-May - early June. At this time, the formation of the ovary occurs simultaneously.

It is this strawberry that can give 2 crops. The first fruiting occurs in June, and the second at the end of summer.

Attention! Varieties of DSD during the second harvest are capable of producing up to 90% of the annual yield. This is possible if the bushes are mature and strong.

It is worth remembering that with each subsequent season, the yield of plants decreases. This will require frequent updating of the bushes for young and strong ones.

short daylight hours

These are varieties in which flower buds are laid in the fall. This allows you to get a crop of early fruits in June. It is easy to propagate, as adult bushes have many mustaches. But, as a rule, they are less common than remontant varieties.

Mustache and no mustache

According to the method of reproduction, remontant strawberries are divided into:

• With a mustache;
• No whiskers (or beardless varieties).

It is most convenient to propagate strawberries with a mustache. Begins to produce a crop within a few months after planting. The beardless strawberry is less common as it can be propagated exclusively by seed.

Peculiarities! Beardless varieties are more resistant to insect diseases. They look neat in the garden, because they do not grow.

Landing

Features of growing remontant varieties:

1. For planting, it is best to choose open, sunny areas;
2. Fertile, well loosened soil.

It is grown by means of preliminary sowing on seedlings. This is done in February or early March. In May, after the risk of late frosts disappears, the strengthened seedlings can be planted in open ground.

Peculiarities! To obtain good harvest, the land on the site must be prepared in the fall. Mineral and organic fertilizers are applied to the soil, after which they are deeply dug.

Propagation of remontant strawberries

To keep as long as possible beneficial features remontant varieties of strawberries, mustache propagation is best suited. But this is not always possible, since some varieties do not have a mustache at all. The only way to get young plants is to grow seedlings.

seeds

This is the most hard way cultivation remontant strawberries. But it allows you to get a large number of young and healthy bushes.

In the case of alpine, or beardless garden strawberries, this is almost a single method of reproduction.

For propagation by seeds, it is worth collecting the largest and sweetest berries of the variety you like. From them you can get seeds that are planted for seedlings in late February or early March.

mustache

Mustache propagation allows you to get many young plants during the season.

This is especially important for remontant varieties, which age quickly and require replacement.

To do this, you need to carefully monitor the appearance of outlets. They are left on the mustache only 2 - 3, as close as possible to the mother bush.

Attention! Weak mustaches must be removed in time, as they weaken an actively fruiting plant.

In other ways

There is another method vegetative propagation remontant strawberries. This may be the division of the bushes. It is used only in the case when you need to urgently receive seed. For reproduction, only strong and healthy bushes can be used.

Attention! This method of propagation is not suitable for all remontant varieties.

Care

Abundant fruiting 2 times a season greatly exhausts the bushes. Because of this, plants need especially careful care. It should be started in early spring, after the snow has melted. You need to remove the old mulch and carefully examine the beds. If there are naked fibrous roots, they need to be spudded. Then loosen the soil in the area and mulch it with small sawdust.

Watering

Garden strawberries need abundant watering throughout the growing season.

The top layer of soil must be kept constantly moist, without dried soil "crust".

It is best to pour water into the grooves between the rows. Or you can water the plants with a hose, simulating rain.

Transfer

Transplantation in the fall is especially relevant for large-fruited varieties.

After 1 - 2 years, depletion occurs, as a result of which the berries become smaller. Frequent moving to a new site will also prevent pests living in the ground from accumulating.

Peculiarities: It is advisable to carry out a transplant before the beginning of September. This will allow the bushes to fully prepare for wintering.

For this:

1. Dig up the area to the depth of the shovel bayonet, remove all the roots of weeds;
2. Add 1 bucket of humus and 30 grams of phosphate fertilizer to the ground square meter;
3. Harrow with a rake and leave the site for 14 days;
4. Mark the site, then dig holes up to a depth of 20 centimeters;
5. Transfer the plants to the holes by the method of transshipment, spud with earth;
6. Mulch the bed with sawdust.

After that, the bed with transplanted plants is watered abundantly.

top dressing

Bushes of remontant varieties during the season are greatly weakened by abundant fruiting. To remedy the situation, apply liquid top dressing:

• Urea;
• bird droppings;
• Dung slurry.

It is introduced in early June, before flowering. The dosage of the drug is 10 liters per 1 square meter.

Wintering

Winter preparation includes:

1. Trimming dry foliage and mustaches;
2. Mulching with straw, peat or dry leaves.

DSD varieties are often exposed to early frosts. This leads to the loss of part of the crop. If there is a risk of early cooling in September, they are grown under covering material. It is best to use spunbond for this. Bushes can be watered without removing the shelter.

Features of growing in open ground

Remontant strawberries have their own special agrotechnical conditions:

• Particular sensitivity to soil quality and watering;
• The growth cycle of remontant varieties is a maximum of 2-3 years;
• The best neighbors for strawberries are carrots, garlic, peas, lettuce, radishes and beans.

It is undesirable to plant remontant varieties of garden strawberries next to potatoes, cucumbers, eggplants and peppers.

Peculiarities! Landed between strawberry beds garlic will protect the crop from slugs or snails.

Popular varieties

The most common varieties of remontant strawberries:

There are also hybrid varieties designed for growing in greenhouses or on a balcony.

Why doesn't it bloom and bear fruit?

But what if the strawberries do not bear fruit? These may be such reasons:

1. plant degeneration. After a maximum of 3 years, the plants stop flowering. This leads to the need to update the bushes every 2 to 3 years.
2. Too late transplanting into open ground in autumn. This leads to the fact that the plant does not have time to adapt. Next year, flowering will be very weak, and the berries will be small;
3. Excessive penetration into the ground during planting. This leads to a sharp decrease in the number of berries;
4. Lack of nitrogenous compounds. Leads to weakening of the leaves. Effective prevention in this case is regular watering. aqueous solution ammonia;
5. Lack of sunlight. This leads to a weakening of the bushes, which means a decrease in yield.

Another one common cause are the late frosts in May. To avoid this trouble, you need to cover the beds with a film or spunbond.

Strawberries on the balcony and windowsill all year round

Remontant varieties are best suited for growing on a balcony.

This allows you to get big harvest from 2 - 3 bushes. Curly and large-fruited varieties are ideal for this.

They not only bear fruit abundantly, but also look good. Growing remontant strawberries consists of the following steps:

1. Sowing seeds for seedlings. To do this, you can use a ready-made nutrient mixture or cook it yourself. Seeds are sown in boxes with it. After the appearance of 2 - 3 leaves, the seedlings dive.
2. Planting in a permanent place. Fortified seedlings are transplanted into hanging planters, baskets or boxes.

Care is almost the same as in open field.In October - November, flowerpots or baskets can be left on a glazed, warm balcony. In the self-care program, only moderate watering, no need to feed. This will provide the plant with a good rest during the dormant period and a good harvest for the next year.

Diseases and pests

The most common diseases of garden strawberries:

• Powdery mildew;
• Black rot;
• Gray and white rot;
• Root rot;
• withering;
• Mottling;
• Mosaic.

Insects are another problem.

The best measure of struggle is timely prevention.

Strawberries are perhaps the favorite among other berry crops. It has a very high taste and therefore appeals to both children and adults.

Grow strawberries in your garden personal plot sometimes quite problematic - the berry requires special care. Those who nevertheless decided to take this step should study the features of this culture in advance. In this article we will talk about the timing of ripening berries. They, as a rule, depend on the chosen variety, as well as on the territory in which they grow.

Ripening dates for strawberries of remontant varieties

I must say that there are two types of strawberries: single fruiting (short daylight hours - KDS) and multiple (remontant). The latter variety, for obvious reasons, is gaining popularity every year. This is quite understandable, because the harvest is an order of magnitude larger. So, let's talk about the main features of this type.

The remontant strawberry differs from the ordinary one in that it has practically no antennae. In addition, it bears fruit and, accordingly, it ripens much earlier. The main feature is repeated fruiting. It happens in waves. For example, the first crop can be harvested in June, the second in early July, and the third, if possible, in mid-August.

As for the varieties of this variety, there are a lot of them today. Among the most popular are the following varieties: Albion, Bordurello, Vima Rina, Geneva, Temptation, Queen II, Lyubava, Maara Des Bois, Inexhaustible, Ostara ”,“ Primadonna ”,“ Referent ”,“ Superfection ”,“ Tristar ”,“ Flora ”,“ Hummi Gento ”,“ Charlotte ”,“ Evie ”, etc.

Let's add one more - large-fruited. The size of one berry can reach 50-75 g.

When strawberries ripen ordinary varieties

Strawberry KSD yields only once a year. It differs from remontant by a smaller mass of fruits (25-30 g), the presence of more developed mustaches.

Strawberries of single fruiting are divided into four groups: early, mid-early, medium, and also. Each group certainly has its favorites.

early varieties of strawberries

Mid-early varieties of strawberries

Medium varieties of strawberries

Late varieties of strawberries

There are not so many late varieties of strawberries. Here is the main list:

How to speed up the ripening of strawberries

It is noteworthy that the ripening period of strawberries can be accelerated. For this there are two simple ways. The essence of the first is to use or covering material. This method allows you to harvest a week earlier.

There is another way - planting this crop in a greenhouse. Both the first and second methods are equally effective. Which one to use is up to the gardener to decide. In any case, in order to get a good harvest, you must not forget about the proper care of this crop.

Video about Florence strawberries

Some gardeners argue that an ordinary variety cannot be forced to bear fruit 3-4 or more times a year, since the plant is guided by the length of daylight hours and has a biological clock like animals. And if you try to grow it, you get a much smaller crop and a maximum of 2 times a year. In fact, everything is far from it. Each plant has its own time of formation of generative buds, from which fruits are then formed. The usual variety is genetically "coded" for 1 harvest and it can be both in the middle of summer and in winter, depending on the conditions of its cultivation.

Fortunately, modern breeding plots have bred special remontant varieties, in which there is no periodicity in the formation of generative buds. That is, the main thing is to create optimal conditions for the development of the fetus, and there is no difference when this happens. This can be in the summer, spring and at any other time every 2-3 months. Getting 5 harvests during the year is not difficult. Remontant varieties bloom constantly, but greatly deplete the soil, so very serious plant care is required.

Consider the best varieties which are acclimatized on the territory of the Russian Federation.

1. Queen Elizabeth 2. An excellent variety, it became famous due to its high yield - about 5 kg of berries grow on one bush in one harvest and this is not a record! With excellent care, you can get up to 19-25 tons per hectare, which is why Queen Elizabeth 2 is the best option for those gardeners who are seriously engaged in growing berries for sale. The mass of one fruit can reach 150-200 grams, the average berries - 60-80 grams each. Has a very sweet taste. The remontant variety allows you to get up to 4-5 crops per year with good fertilizer soil and constant watering. Resistant to powdery mildew and fungal diseases - they almost never happen on the stem when grown in greenhouses.
2. San Andreas. California remontant variety, but for more than 15 years it has been acclimatized by Russian breeders, recommended for industrial use. The high density of berries allows them to be easily transported over any distance and stored in basement. Up to 2 kg can be collected from one bush, up to 10 tons per hectare. Resistant to fungal diseases, especially brown spot. The fruits have a very sweet taste.
3. Temptation. One of the best remontant hybrids, which is characterized by high yield and large sizes fruits. From one bush you can collect up to 1500 grams, each of which will be at least 60 grams. Thus, at good watering and constant fertilization of the soil with organic matter, you can get up to 50 tons per hectare. It has a high decorative effect, the inflorescences are bright, the bushes are not sprawling. Harvesting can be carried out as early as 2 months after planting a new bush in the soil, the full maturity of the bush comes in a year.
4. Lyubava. If you are looking for year-round cultivation of strawberries in a greenhouse, then you should pay attention to this variety. In spite of small size berries (30-45 grams), the yield reaches 2 kg from one bush and up to 250 kg / ha, since the planting density is relatively high. It is very sweet, has an excellent presentation and smell. Even young bushes bear fruit, and they begin to bloom immediately after they take root. The remontant variety practically does not require pollination, it is enough for him that the bushes will be in close proximity. Another advantage of this plant is that it forms very few whiskers, as a rule, no more than 7 pieces. Thus, you do not have to constantly care for the plants and cut them off to increase yields.

These were the most popular remontant varieties and are very easy to grow in a greenhouse. They practically do not react to the duration of daylight hours and are content with artificial lighting. Unpretentiousness to diseases makes them ideal material for planting in greenhouses where there will be high relative humidity.

Strawberries All Year Round - A Practical Guide to Planting Bushes

The most important part is planting. Not only the future yield of your site will depend on it, but also the susceptibility of the plant to diseases, the number of fruiting waves, the rate of fruit ripening, and much more. To date, there are many methods, but consider some of the most popular landing methods.

Growing strawberries in pots . The advantage of this method is the high organization of the site - you can make rows of the correct form, place the pots in several tiers (usually 5-6 of them), and also arrange it in relation to different varieties and early maturity. There is only one drawback - the relative high cost. Do metal frames and placing ceramic or plastic pots on them will be very expensive, the costs can be up to 1000 rubles per 1 square meter of greenhouse area, and this is without watering. This is the so-called "Dutch technology", which involves a minimum of space costs and a maximum yield per square meter (in this case, even a cubic meter).

It is also very convenient to cultivate a plot with pots: the fruits hang down and are always clean, watering is easy and you can get by with a conventional irrigation system, it is convenient to walk and harvest, since there is nothing on the floor, and a person moves freely around the territory. The yield increases 4-5 times due to the high planting density, but if the plant gets sick with something, especially fungal diseases, then the disease will spread over the entire area in a matter of days.

Growing in boxes. This is the most common technology for growing strawberries all year round in Russia. It provides for the construction wooden boxes different shapes(75x25x25, 50x25x25, 150x30x25 and other sizes) in which strawberries are planted. It is relatively easy to take care of it, since the site is well organized, the floor is free again, you can divide the territory into different dates maturation and variety. The disadvantage is that there will be a small yield per unit area, since the plants are too “sprawling” placed. Advantages - the boxes can be made by yourself, so the costs will be minimal, there is no need to build an expensive metal frame.

Growing on the floor. An option when seedlings are planted directly into the soil. The advantage of this method is its low cost, since there are no costs for arranging the place at all. 10 minutes with a shovel or chopper - and the area is ready to receive seedlings. Of course, there are a lot of shortcomings, otherwise no one would have managed to make boxes, pots, metal structures and other devices. The first drawback is the lack of free space. This is similar to growing strawberries in open ground - a few weeks after the start of the growing season, it is no longer possible to walk around the site, as everything is overgrown with tendrils. A lot of effort goes into removing them. Planting density - 10-15 bushes per square meter, no more, while the Dutch technology allows you to plant up to 60-90 bushes. As a result, the yield will suffer as well.

Growing in bags . This method is for those who want to learn how to grow strawberries in winter according to Dutch technology, but at Russian costs. Craftsmen were able to reduce the price of pots and whatnots hundreds of times by replacing them with an ordinary polypropylene bag that is hung on a rope or simply lies down. Inside the bag there is fertile soil, holes of 5-8 centimeters are cut and seedlings are planted. As a result, we have hanging "pots", huge space savings in the greenhouse and all the other advantages of Dutch technology. For watering, you can use conventional sprayers or a hand watering can. The only difficulty is securing the bag so that it does not swing. You will have to walk very carefully or make special wire extensions between adjacent "pots".

What kind of soil is needed for year-round growing berries

Particular attention should be paid to the soil. It is from its quality that will depend on how quickly the next wave of harvest is formed. To do this, you need to remember just a few rules for creating soil. Let's consider them in more detail.

1. Must have drainage. Regardless of where you grow it, it is important that the moisture that enters the ground quickly passes through the root system and does not linger in it. In this case, oxygen will be better supplied to the roots, and the plant itself will develop faster. It will also keep the earth loose, which is important when growing berry crops. To prepare the drainage, we need crushed stone or gravel, which must be placed at the very bottom of the pot, box, bed or bag. As a rule, it occupies no more than 25% of the volume of the entire soil.
2. To mix fertile land with sand. At least 25% should be sand so that the soil is very loose. This will increase the gas exchange of the root system, as a result, the bushes will grow much faster and form new berries. It is best to use coarse-grained sand, which is mixed with the soil and poured immediately onto drainage gravel or gravel.
3. The soil must contain peat, organic fertilizer and others useful material, which will help the plant start and quickly move to the stage of formation of generative organs. If the soil is Bad quality, the bushes will be "dwarfed" for a month and may not grow at all to the size we need. The number and size of fruits will also suffer.
4. Quality fertilizer. Without it, nothing will grow - this is clear even to a beginner. If you grow remontant varieties, you need to double the amount of fertilizer, since these varieties pull everything out of the earth to the last gram and after them the soil becomes deserted. The constant addition of nitrogen and ammonia fertilizers should become your rule. When planting bushes, it is necessary to introduce a lot of organic components, as well as nitrogen, so that the root system takes root as quickly as possible and begins to give useful substances to the stem. Immediately after the plant takes root in a new place, add superphosphate and ammonium nitrate- they will help to gain vegetative mass and grow the bush to maximum size. Then feed with orthophosphorus fertilizers - they will help increase the fruit in size and collect a maximum from one bush.

If you do everything right, and the soil is not only perfectly composed, but also saturated with minerals and macronutrients, then you can count on a solid harvest and high quality berries!

How to grow strawberries all year round - we organize the site correctly

If you have already dealt with this crop, then most likely you can imagine how many problems growing strawberries all year round can bring you. During the fruiting period (and you will have it almost constantly), it will be necessary to perform many operations at the same time. Watering plants, fertilizing, trimming tendrils, harvesting, spraying against fungus and the like will fall on you in one moment, and some operations will not work together. For example, it is impossible to spray immediately before picking berries, even if these drugs are practically harmless to human health.

The first mistake of a young gardener is the simultaneous planting of several remontant varieties. Experienced specialists plant strawberries in such a way that the harvest time is different. Even if it coincides, then it can be artificially extended or accelerated with the help of irrigation, daylight hours (artificial lighting), and fertilizers.

Automated watering is a significant saving of your free time. As you know, it takes a lot of effort to water the berries, since the area is large, and they have to be sprayed very often. In order not to torment yourself with work, and plants with drought, it is best to immediately stock up on a PVC hose and several spinner sprayers. They can be installed under the roof of the greenhouse and adjusted so that water reaches all its corners. Thus, all that remains for you to do is connect the hose to the water supply and turn on the water supply. 5-8 minutes and not only the earth in pots (bags, boxes, in the garden) will be wet, but also the leaves! And this will significantly increase the productivity of the plant.

Watering will help solve the fertilizer problem. How? Just use carbamide and other liquid preparations that can be mixed into water and sprayed all over the room at once! Remember that you can not be inside the room and go into it 3-4 hours after the end of the procedure, as substances can be dangerous to human health. Use sprayers if necessary!

Strawberries in winter are not a myth, but a reality! All you need to implement this project is a greenhouse, some money for seedlings and great desire get 5 harvests a year!