What to do if winter garlic has risen before frost. Growing winter garlic in open ground

Winter garlic can be found in almost every garden. He doesn't need special care, likes to grow in fertile loamy or sandy loam neutral soil. Winter garlic is cultivated in open ground everywhere, even in regions with cold, harsh climates. In this article we will tell you step by step how to grow winter garlic in open ground, how and when to plant in the fall.

Types and characteristics of winter garlic

Winter garlic, as a rule, produces a more abundant harvest than spring garlic. They begin to use it when it is not yet fully ripe, at the beginning of summer. Later it is stored, but until the next ripening it is easier to preserve spring garlic. There are two types of winter garlic: bolting and non-shooting. The latter is better stored if it is provided with proper care, it is removed on time, and stored at low positive temperatures until spring.

Winter garlic often pleases gardeners with its harvest; the main thing is to choose the right variety, plant it correctly and care for it.

However, becoming infected viral diseases, non-shooting winter garlic weakens, degenerates, and cannot be renewed. Therefore it is less common. Shooting winter garlic produces the richest harvests and is more often used as food in summer and winter. Harvested in time, fully ripened spring garlic is stored for a very long time. With the help of bulbs it is constantly updated. He doesn't degenerate.

The cloves grow in the soil, so they can become infected with viruses or fungi. A new plant that grows from an infected clove will be infected initially. In a couple of years you will receive good plant it will be impossible to obtain, since degeneration will occur. In addition, garlic becomes smaller over time. That's why planting material must be updated every 2-3 years.

As such, garlic does not have seeds. Those who think that bulblets are just seeds are mistaken, but this is wrong. Inside the seeds there is an ovule, which begins to develop after fertilization, and a new plant grows from it. And bulblets are special organs that are used only for vegetative propagation. Winter bolting garlic, together with flowering, forms aerial bulbs, which are called bulbs.

In order to get green feathers, they grow perennial garlic, which does not have bulbs, but has seeds with which it reproduces. Decorative garlic is also propagated through seeds, but it is not eaten at all, but is grown for its spectacular appearance and phytocides, with which this garlic disinfects the air around it. Winter garlic, which is grown for its cloves, does not have seeds.

When to plant winter garlic in the fall

The photo shows what winter garlic looks like when it has already sprouted; there are two types of winter garlic - bolting and non-shooting.

The main difficulty is that you need to predict when real frosts will come. However, it is approximately known when winter will come - this is the time to navigate by, paying attention to the days recommended for planting in the lunar calendar.

Preparation of beds and planting material

To improve the health of the seed, before winter, one-toothed cloves grown from bulbs are planted, from which not a full-fledged head is grown over the season, but only one large clove, which has all the advantages of its variety. And from these one-toothed plants, planted in open ground in the fall, next year in the summer they will produce beautiful heads, which consist of many teeth. Thus, the “seeds” will give a full harvest in just a couple of years.

Before planting, one-toothed trees and teeth must be disinfected. To do this, they are placed in a 1% solution for 25 minutes. copper sulfate or for 2 hours in a solution of ash alkali: 1 cup wood ash pour 2 liters of water and boil for half an hour. After harvesting pumpkins, cabbage, zucchini, cucumbers, and squash, the beds are prepared for garlic. They need to be dug up, potassium sulfate and superphosphate, compost or humus added, watered and left to rest for several weeks.

The main rule for a high-quality and large harvest of winter garlic is to plant it correctly; basically everyone plants this plant with cloves.

The soil must settle so that when the roots grow, there is no movement of the soil. The roots are not very deep, but grow vertically downwards. If the soil moves, the roots will have to bend upward, and this will have a bad effect on the crop, and no amount of care can correct this.

Tip #1. It is advisable to raise the bed by 10 cm so that in the spring there is no stagnation of melt water.

In order for garlic cloves to overwinter well, they must be buried 10-12 cm. The distance between large cloves should be at least 10 cm, between small cloves - a little less, since their heads will not grow very large. Between rows - 15 cm. When preparing planting furrows, some gardeners add ash or sand to the bottom so that the cloves do not touch the soil.

It is believed that in this case it will be easier for them to take root. If they still sprouted before frost, they must be covered with non-woven fabric or mulched with peat or sawdust mixed with soil. In the spring this is all removed. Garlic rarely freezes, but it should not be allowed to get wet or dry under the covering material when the soil begins to thaw.

Caring for winter garlic

Growing winter garlic in open ground does not require special care. It needs to be watered, fed, weeded if necessary, and the soil loosened. As soon as the snow melts, the beds are fed with a solution of mullein or chicken manure with the addition of superphosphate and potassium salt. If there is no rain, then the plantings must be watered every week. Fertilizing can be combined with watering. If the soil is not very fertile, urea should be added at the stage of 4 leaves, and when the heads are forming, feed with superphosphate.

Watering should be stopped 20 days before harvesting - this way the crop will be better stored. When caring for bolting varieties of winter garlic, the shoots are allowed to grow up to 20 cm, then, if the bulbs are not grown, they are pinched. Often, shoots are left on several plants so that the aerial “seeds” ripen to improve the health of next year’s harvest. In order for the garlic heads to ripen faster, you need to remove the soil from them and leave them a third open.

Typically, winter garlic is more productive, so the harvest will delight you with both the quantity and size of its fruits.

Harvesting winter garlic

Around mid-July, garlic begins to be harvested. A more precise period depends on the variety being grown, the size of the head, its care, and the climate. The crop should be harvested when the leaves begin to turn yellow and lie down. Being late will not affect the quality of the heads. However, if the ripe heads remain in the soil, the scales will dissolve, the teeth will be exposed and in this form they will not be able to be stored for a long time. All the garlic cannot ripen at the same time, so harvesting takes several days.

The dug up heads, if the weather is dry, are left to dry directly on the bed. They can be moved under the roof, but they require fresh air with a breeze. After a week, the harvest must be removed indoors and dried so that the root lobe can be rubbed with your fingers without effort.

Tip #2. Garlic heads are stored at a temperature no higher than +3 degrees with average humidity.

The best varieties of winter garlic

The following varieties are popular among gardeners:

Variety name	Characteristic
Alcor	The variety is bolting. The heads are mid-season. They are most often planted in the garden. From the moment of planting until the first leaves appear, 87-98 days pass. Leaf length 16-41 cm. Width 0.7-2.5 cm. The leaf is dark green with a bluish-gray tint. The length of the arrow is 66-102 cm. At the end of the arrow there are large dense bulbs with 4-5 pink-violet cloves. Head weight 13-36 g. Productive variety. May suffer from yellow dwarfism.
Lyubasha	Arrowhead is winter-hardy and drought-resistant. The luminiferous stem can grow up to 120-150 cm. The length of the dark green leaf is 35-45 cm. The width is 25 mm. The flattened bulb weighs 12-375 g. The number of cloves in the head is 5-9. The weight of the clove is 15-20 g.
Antonnik	Shoots. The heads are mid-season. The dark green leaf with a waxy tint is 34 cm long and 3.7 cm wide. The round head weighs 54-72 g. It has 4-5 white-pink dense cloves, semi-sharp in taste. 1005th yield. The heads are large. The variety is resistant to fusarium.
Hermann	The variety is good to grow in the garden. The heads are mid-season. Shoots. The length of the green leaf with a waxy coating is 60 cm, width 2.1 cm. The flattened head weighs 42-54 g. It has 6-7 creamy sharp teeth. The variety can be stored for up to 8 months.
Dobrynya	Late bolting variety. Ripening period is 120-130 days. Leaf length 55 cm, width 2.5 cm. Round head weight 60 g. Number of cloves 14. Their weight is up to 6 g. They have a light cream color, dense, semi-sharp taste. The variety is stored for up to 6 months, but the fruits are preserved up to 80%. The heads are large. The variety is productive.
Dubkovsky	For growing in the garden. Shooting universal mid-season variety. Ripens in 98-114 days. Green leaf with a faint waxy coating. The leaves are 34 cm long, 1.6 cm wide. The bulbs are small, airy, pale purple, dense, with 10-12 cloves. Head weight 32 g. Can reproduce through aerial bulbs.
Jagged	Shooting variety. The dark green leaf is 46 cm long and 3.7 cm wide. The round head weighs 72 g. The head has 6 cloves. They are white, dense, and taste semi-sharp. The variety is valued for its large heads and productivity.
Doctor	For growing in the garden. Doesn't shoot early variety. Ripens in 100-108 days. The light green leaves are 43 cm long and up to 2 cm wide. The round-flat head weighs 42 g. It has up to 16 cloves. They taste semi-sharp. The variety can be stored for up to 7 months. But the safety of fruits is up to 60%. High-yielding, transportable, winter-hardy.

In the photo you can see how the beds should look, how the holes with planted garlic should be located, then the plant will have enough space to grow and develop.

Diseases of winter garlic

Bacteriosis of garlic. This disease is caused by putrefactive bacteria that penetrate into undried, poorly ripened heads. If the disease develops rapidly, the heads rot right in the garden. However, most often rot appears during storage. In this case, deep stripes or ulcers appear on the teeth, which go up from the bottom. The tissues become pearly yellow. Teeth affected by the disease most often take weak roots when planted and do not overwinter well.

Rust. This is a fungal disease that attacks the leaves. It appears in the form of pads - light yellow in color and slightly convex. Later they turn black. If rust develops severely, the leaves dry out prematurely. In warm weather, the disease develops very quickly. In cold weather it slows down.

White rot. The disease affects garlic at any age during the growing season or during storage. In infected young plants, the leaves turn yellow, starting from the top, and die. Garlic quickly withers and dies. A fluffy white mycelium appears on the scales and roots of the heads, the teeth become watery and rot.

Pests of winter garlic

Onion fly. It leaves its larvae at the base of garlic stems. As the larvae develop, they feed on plant sap. This causes the leaves to turn yellow. To combat onion fly larvae, you can use folk remedy: Dilute 200 g of salt in a bucket of water and treat the beds with garlic with the resulting solution.

Stem nematode. This is almost the most malicious pest that attacks garlic and onions. There are no ways to combat it that ensure 100% freedom from pests, because after harvesting they go into the ground and can live in it for up to five years without food. The stems of affected plants begin to turn yellow and curl, the heads crack and rot. Garlic infected with a nematode must be removed and the acidic soil must be limed. Garlic and onions should not be planted on contaminated soil for at least five years. Planting material is heated for 10 hours at a temperature of 48 degrees.

At proper care, planting and growing, winter garlic is usually not often exposed to diseases and pests.

Questions and answers about growing winter garlic

Question No. 1. How to distinguish winter garlic from spring garlic?

Winter garlic should be planted before winter and in spring. They differ in external features. When comparing the heads of these two species, it is clearly seen that winter garlic has several large cloves in one row. As a rule, there are 4-12 of them. They are located around a solid rod. The teeth are covered with a pink-violet membrane.

Spring garlic has no stem and a lot of small cloves arranged in several rows - about 25. Winter garlic hardly survives until spring. It needs to be dug up in the summer. Part of the harvest is used as seed. Winter garlic has a very hot taste. Spring grain is consumed all winter, as it does not lose its qualities and does not dry out.

Question No. 2. What types of planting material can be used for growing winter garlic?

There are three types of planting material for planting garlic before winter:

• bulbs,
• teeth of the heads,
• single-toothed bulbs, which are grown from bulbs.

Prefers sandy loam soils. The beds for it are prepared in advance, a week and a half before planting. The soil is dug up to a depth of 25 cm, weeds are carefully removed, 5-6 kg of humus are added (but not fresh manure!), 30 g of superphosphate, 20 g of potassium salt per 1 sq. m. A day or two before planting add ammonium nitrate at the rate of 10-12 g per 1 sq. m. Dry soil is watered.

Before planting, several cloves need to be “stripped” and inspected: cloves with signs of rot, mold, or numerous yellow spots (bacterial spotting) are unsuitable for planting. Garlic should be well dried; if damp, it will quickly begin to grow.

To protect garlic from diseases, it can be soaked for 2-3 hours in a warm solution of potassium permanganate pink color. More effective disinfection: 3 minutes in a solution of table salt (1 tablespoon per 2 liters of water), then 3 minutes in a solution of copper sulfate (1 teaspoon per 2 liters of water).

The largest cloves from the largest bulbs are selected for planting. The analysis is carried out immediately before planting - otherwise the bottom of the clove, on which the roots form, will dry out. The old mother bottom must be removed, as it will act as a plug.

Rows on a well-leveled bed are placed at a distance of 20-25 cm, leaving 10-12 cm between plants. Can be planted in furrows. The main thing is not to press the teeth into the ground, this will delay the growth of roots. In addition, compacted soil can then push the garlic to the surface and it will freeze. But the soil should not be too loose (you need to lightly compact it with a board), because then the cloves can “drown” and the bulbs will turn out small and will not be stored well.

Planting depth depends on soil type and clove size. There should be 3-4 cm from its top to the soil surface. Planting too shallowly threatens freezing. Plantings should be mulched with a layer of peat, humus or sawdust 2-5 cm thick, and brushwood should be spread out to retain snow on the beds. In the spring, the mulch layer is removed to prevent the plants from rotting.

Care is quite traditional: systematic loosening, removal of weeds. Watering is necessary during active growth (otherwise a large head will not form), but is not necessary during the ripening period of the bulbs.

If necessary, fertilize: early spring- urea (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water) and another one or two in the summer. You can use slurry bird droppings, diluted 12-15 times. Feed (and water) garlic only at the root. If the leaves become too light, it means that it needs to be fed with a solution of nitrophoska (2 tablespoons per bucket of water).

When the shoots of the shooting garlic grow to 10 cm, they should be removed, otherwise you can’t count on a good harvest. Several strong plants can be left for breeding and the bulblets can be allowed to mature.

Shortly before harvesting, the soil from the bulbs is raked - this promotes the ripening of garlic. And they remove it when they turn yellow lower leaves, late July - early August. By the way, winter garlic ripens better than spring garlic. The scales become dense and durable. You shouldn’t overexpose garlic in the garden: the bulb will begin to disintegrate into cloves, germinate and will not be stored well.

Exists cold method storing garlic (in a dry place at a temperature of 0-3 ° C) and warm - at room temperature.

There is no need to worry about the emergence of winter garlic shoots in the fall. It is called winter because seedlings emerge in the winter, withstand the most severe frosts under the snow, and continue their development in the spring.

Of course, the reference books say that you need to plant three weeks before frost. Here the hope is that the teeth will have time to take root, but will not have time to sprout. But the weather is always different, and it’s almost impossible to predict the landing.

But if you want to sleep peacefully, cover the bed with mats of reeds or straw, or simply mulch with sawdust or a thick layer of humus.

You can leave winter varieties for spring sowing. But they are stored very poorly, and in the spring almost all the teeth will be lost. In addition, when sowing in winter, the number of seedlings will be immediately visible in the spring, and if wintering is bad, you can reseed the bed or plant new cloves.

Well, if you are not sure about the frost resistance of the variety, you can resort to winter sowing. In this case, the cloves are sown in already frozen soil - when only the top layer is frozen. This is the so-called sowing “by shard”.

In this case, the teeth are planted not in grooves, but in separate holes, which are immediately made with reinforcement or a crowbar. The optimal planting depth depends on the size of the seed. On average three times the length of a clove.

The planted teeth are immediately covered with dry soil or humus stored in advance. Such crops will sprout only in spring or during very long thaws. And even with somewhat low frost resistance they will not suffer serious losses.

Its advantages are quite decent. In particular, even teeth with an extended growth period will grow well in the spring. Plants will undergo natural hardening and elimination over the winter - those that are too weak will die. The harvest is obtained two weeks earlier than with the earliest spring sowing.

What else to plant before winter

Such sowing is no less useful for many slow-growing crops: parsley, sorrel, carrots, dill, celery...

Interestingly, not only winter garlic can survive spring in the sprouting state. They winter well with leaves - parsley, spinach, sorrel, onions, leeks... Inexperienced gardeners think, when they see green foliage in the spring or during a thaw, that all this has grown under the snow or during a thaw. In fact, the foliage grew in the fall before frost, it was simply preserved under the snow, and in early spring the bushes will continue to develop.

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Garlic – early vegetable crop, which can be planted both in autumn and spring. Autumn plantings are called winter crops; they give big harvest bulbs with large teeth. Spring plantings are called spring plantings, and their harvest is bulbs with smaller cloves.

Depending on what kind of garlic needs to be grown, different planting times and different varieties plants. What is different about planting winter garlic in spring? And how to get a full harvest from spring plantings?

Existing varieties of garlic are divided into two groups according to planting time: winter and spring. Winter varieties are intended for planting in the fall, “before winter.” Spring varieties are intended for planting in the spring, “in the summer.” Varieties differ in methods of germination and storage. Winter garlic must undergo “cold hardening” to form a decent harvest.

At the same time, it will be perfectly stored all winter. For spring varieties, such hardening is not necessary, but they will not “survive the winter”; they must be eaten in summer and autumn.

If winter garlic is planted in the spring, then by autumn it will form only a single-toothed head. This is due to the fact that it did not go through the “cold” development cycle, did not survive the winter and did not feel frost. What to do if you didn’t have time to plant the cloves at the end of autumn? Keep winter variety until next year, or can I plant it in the spring?

In order to get a full-fledged garlic head of winter garlic planted in the spring, it is necessary to apply agrotechnical tricks, namely, to “imitate” winter.

To “imitate” winter, garlic cloves are given a special cold “stratification” or aging in the refrigerator. It is important that the prongs are not simply stored on the bottom shelf of a refrigerator or on an unheated porch. They should be kept cold in a damp substrate - sand, sawdust, or wrapped in a wet cloth.

Using proper pre-sowing preparation, you can plant a winter variety of garlic in the spring and get a good harvest. As for spring garlic, it will form a garlic head without cold stratification. This is due to the growth characteristics of spring varieties.

When can you plant garlic?

Using special agrotechnical techniques, you can plant winter garlic in the spring. Now let’s decide when is the best time to do this. Plant growth and root formation require heat and moisture. Garlic is a cold-resistant crop; it begins to grow already at + 5°C.

Note: garlic is planted when the average daily air temperature reaches +5°C. It should be understood that the recommended indicators are averages. With an average of +5°C, the temperature during the day can be +10C, and at night it can drop to 0°.

Soil temperature is also important for root growth and development. Fast and friendly growth will begin at a soil temperature of +15°. Before this, the roots will develop slowly.

Note: resistance to cold means that the plant will not die in case of possible frosts. However, it will not grow during frosts.

From here, we give the dates for planting garlic for various regions of Russia:

1. Southern regions - can be planted in late February or early March.
2. Middle zone - garlic is planted in April - the beginning or middle of the month, and in especially cold spring - at the end of April.
3. Northern regions - garlic is planted in early May.

For the same region, the timing of planting bulbs and root crops can vary within 1-2 weeks - depending on the air temperature and the early/late start of spring.

Choosing a variety for planting

The main difference between spring and winter varieties of garlic is the formation of a peduncle, a “arrow” on which the bulbs ripen. Spring varieties do not have a peduncle; they reproduce only by cloves. Winter crops have a peduncle; they reproduce both by cloves and by bulblets formed in the peduncle. Hence, winter varieties are called bolting garlic, and spring varieties are called non-shooting types of garlic.

In addition, spring and winter varieties are divided into table and industrial varieties. Table fruits include those fruits that contain a lot of pungent taste, essential oil and bitterness. This is also - large varieties with big heads. Technical garlic includes garlic with a less pronounced burning taste and small, small cloves.

Note: Almost all varieties of spring garlic are semi-sharp and technical. And all varieties of winter garlic are table varieties.

Various spring and winter varieties differ in their growing season. It can be 90 days (this is the minimum period for the formation of the head), for later ones - 125 days.

Another difference between spring varieties and winter varieties is that more garlic cloves form in their heads. If a head of winter garlic has 6-8 cloves, then a head of spring garlic will have 12-15 or 20 smaller cloves.

Here are the names of the most popular non-shooting spring varieties of garlic:

1. Abrek – 15 cloves per head, ripens within 90-100 days. Head weight 30 g.
2. Medicine - 10 lobes per head, ripens in 90-100 days, head weight - up to 40 g.
3. Moscow - produces up to 15 cloves in the head, forms a harvest for 100-110 days. Head weight – 15-20 g.
4. Victorio - up to 15 cloves, formed in 100-110 days, head weight 40-45 g.
5. Demidovsky - 16 cloves, head up to 50 g, terms - up to 110 days.
6. Permyak - 17 cloves, head weight up to 35 g, terms - up to 110 days.
7. Degtyarsky - up to 18 cloves in a small onion, formed in 100-110 days. Bulb weight 35-40 g.
8. Uralets - up to 20 cloves, head up to 35 g, terms - up to 110 days.
9. Sochi - produces 30 cloves and forms especially large heads weighing up to 50 g. Formation time - 100-110 days.
10. Saki - forms a head of 12-14 cloves, matures in 110-120 days. Bulb size – up to 20 g.
11. Ukrainian white Gulyai-Polye (by name settlement– Gulyai-Pole) – forms more than 10 cloves in the head, matures up to 120 days. Bulb size – up to 25 g.
12. Alleysky - up to 18 cloves, with a ripening period of 120-125 days, bulb weight - up to 25 g.

And one more feature: spring garlic ripens longer than winter garlic - by 3-4 weeks. Therefore, in the northern regions it is recommended to grow only fast-growing varieties, for example, Lekar and Abrek. IN middle lane In Russia there is a larger choice of varieties - Moskovsky, Degtyarsky, Permyak, Uralets, Demidovsky, Victorio. In the southern regions, varieties of different ripening periods can be grown, especially late varieties of garlic - Saki, Ukrainian. Now let’s talk in detail about how to plant winter garlic in the spring.

Planting winter garlic in spring: soil preparation

Garlic is undemanding to soil and can grow on both chernozems and loams. It needs moisture, but it cannot tolerate flooding - the roots do not develop well when there is not enough air.

Therefore, in early spring, open, raised places are chosen for cloves. And when the site is located in a hollow, they make high ridges that prevent flooding.

Note: In open sunny places it is better to grow garlic on bulbs. If garlic greens are needed, then the cloves are planted on shaded ridges.

To plant garlic, choose an area where onions and nightshade plants - potatoes, tomatoes - have not been grown. Suitable beds on which legumes, cabbage, cucumbers, and pumpkins grew.

Autumn soil preparation should include the application organic fertilizers– rotted manure, mature mulch. There is no need to add organic matter in the spring - it should have time to decompose and release nitrogen to the soil. In addition, fresh organic matter can cause burns to the roots and the appearance of mole crickets. Therefore, we apply manure in the fall, and in the spring we cultivate the top layer of soil. Loosen the crust and remove plant debris.

Note: it is also better to add potassium and phosphorus to the soil before winter. If this has not been done, you can add ash to the ground in the spring. She is also a complex mineral fertilizers in a form digestible by plants.

Preparation of planting material

For planting in the ground, only the outer cloves of winter garlic are used. Internal - not suitable for growing bulbs; they can be planted on a green feather. Therefore, before planting, the head of garlic is disassembled and the inner and outer cloves are separated.

Internal ones are set aside, external ones are inspected for the presence of rot and sorted by size. Sorting is necessary to separate the plantings - small tines will be planted in one row, large ones in another.

The prepared cloves are soaked in potassium permanganate and then in a stimulant. Soaking time in manganese solution is 5-15 minutes. The concentration of the solution is several crystals of manganese per 1 liter of water.

After this, the cloves are dried. The soaking time in the stimulator is 7-8 hours, after which the garlic is placed in the refrigerator for stratification. Such complex technology preparation is necessary so that the spring bulbs catch up with the winter bulbs in terms of quantity and quality of the harvest and form a full-fledged head of garlic with 10-20 cloves.

Note: garlic has relatively weak rooting, which is the reason for soaking it in a stimulant during spring planting.

After soaking, the cloves are wrapped in damp cloth and left to germinate. The fabric should be damp. To do this, it is dipped into water, squeezed out and placed in a container (plate), cloves of garlic are placed on top and covered with another damp cloth.

A plate with teeth is placed inside the bag and placed in the refrigerator on the bottom shelf, so that the bag is slightly open. The teeth are kept there for 3-4 weeks, periodically removing and checking the moisture content of the fabric. After 3-4 weeks, roots up to 5 cm long form on each clove.

Planting: step-by-step instructions

When the ground warms up to +15°C, you can plant sprouted garlic - cloves with roots in the ground.

The work must be done on a sunny day, which will make it possible to additionally warm the soil in the furrows for planting:

1. We make furrows 10 cm deep. The distance between the furrows should be 20-25 cm. Leave them open for 2-3 hours. During this time, the earth will warm up a few additional degrees.
2. Afterwards, pour sand and ash into the recesses of the furrows in a layer of 1-2 cm. The ratio of sand and ash should be 9:1 - 9 parts sand and 1 part wood ash. Next, we begin planting.
3. The planting depth is 2.5 times the height of the clove, or 6-7 cm. Between large cloves in a row, 20 cm is left. Between small cloves, the distance is smaller - 10-15 cm. Note: the planting depth of spring garlic is less than that of winter garlic. His root system It is not afraid of frost; it requires warmth for its development.
4. The plantings are covered with earth. When the first shoots appear, mulch with straw. There is no rot or pathogens in such mulch. At the same time, it protects the upper layers of the soil from drying out, retains moisture, and releases it to the plants as the soil dries out.

Note: The ground for garlic should be damp. This creates best conditions for the formation of plant roots and bulb growth.

After planting, we wait for the emergence of seedlings and cultivate the plants in the traditional way - water, fertilize, maintain a layer of mulch, and, if necessary, loosen.

Each region has its own optimal timing for planting garlic for the winter.. Usually they coincide with the moment when the soil temperature drops to 10-12#C. The cloves should enter the winter in a well-rooted state, preferably with seedlings 0.7-1.5 cm long. Such garlic overwinters safely and actively grows in the spring, and this is one of the main conditions for obtaining good harvest.

Too early planting garlic for the winter The teeth, not having time to take root well, may begin to grow, which will greatly weaken their winter hardiness. The greenery will die from a sharp drop in temperature. And the plastic substances accumulated in the teeth have already been spent on its formation.

More late dates planting for the winter (closer to November) is dangerous because the garlic will not have time to take root and will freeze.

Science believes that for the middle regions of Russia optimal time for planting garlic with dry cloves for the winter - the period from September 25 to mid-October. About 5 years ago, I also tried to cope with this work before Intercession.

But the weather has changed, so now raspberries help me determine the timing. As soon as its leaves turned golden and flew from the bushes, it was time to start planting garlic. In the spring, feathers at such sowing dates begin to grow immediately after the soil thaws. The more greenery the plant grows before the heat sets in, the larger the garlic heads will be.

However, if there is a risk of not investing in the optimal time (there is no way to get to the site), then I prefer not to postpone this work until November. U late landings There is always more freezing in winter, especially if the winter turns out to be light and frosty.

And the garlic that came up in the fall, according to my observations, has never frozen out. Although if large sprouts pop up, this is not always to his benefit. After the plant produces its first root, the composition of its cell sap changes, sugars accumulate in it, and the syrup, like water, does not freeze. Therefore, sprouted garlic simply falls asleep for the winter, and grows back in the spring, even if the leaves are damaged by frost.

Selection of garlic cloves for autumn planting for winter

For planting, the largest cloves from large heads are selected. The cloves should be easily separated from each other, healthy, without signs of rot, dense and elastic, with pinkish or lilac skin. Their bottoms should not have cracks. If there is at least one suspicious clove in the onion, it is better to discard it.

Advice from a practitioner

Make it a rule to select garlic planting material during harvesting. Dig up the plants you like first and dry them until they turn completely yellow. And then, while trimming the stems, sort out the largest heads.

The heads are disassembled on the day of planting. If this is done earlier, the teeth dry out and lose their germination. When peeling, make sure that no old bottom remains. It, like a cork, does not allow moisture to pass through and prevents rooting.

You should not remove the outer shell from the cloves, after which it will become more susceptible to all unfavorable factors, and the onion grown from a bare clove will not be stored well.

To protect against diseases, planting material (teeth, single-teeth, bulbs) can be soaked in one of the preparations: Immunocytophyte, Fitosporin, Barrier, Barrier.

Keep in mind

If the cloves of a garlic head vary greatly in size, there are few of them, they have a double tip or double, fused, this indicates degeneration. Such bulbs must be rejected; you cannot expect a good harvest from them. This means it’s time to take care of updating the planting material.

To ensure that the plants in the garden are the same, the cloves must be calibrated by size: then they simultaneously sprout, grow and develop. They are also removed in one day.

Note:

The best fertilizers for garlic are organic: humus, compost (not fresh manure!). It also responds well to the combined application of organic and mineral fertilizers. Let us assume that the effect of mineral fertilizers increases significantly when they are used against the background of at least a minimal dose of organic matter.

Place autumn garlic cloves on a winter pillow

For garlic, a flat bed is usually set aside sunny place from early harvested crops: cucumbers, radishes, legumes, early potatoes and cabbage. It needs deeply and thoroughly loosened soil. You need to apply fertilizer and dig it up in advance, preferably 1-1.5 months, but no later than 1.5-2 weeks before the planned planting date. The earth must become denser naturally. If the cloves are planted immediately after digging, the settling soil can tear off the roots, and this entails a significant reduction in yield.

I have loam on my plot. When preparing the bed, I first scatter (under a motor cultivator) humus and dolomite flour or lime. I apply the remaining fertilizers into the furrow just before planting.

Just for one square meter I give a bucket of humus, one glass of ash and dolomite flour, 2 tbsp. spoons of nitrophoska and superphosphate.

You can plant teeth according to different schemes. The main thing is that there are no more than 40-50 of them per square meter. At the same time, they should be placed so that it is convenient to loosen the ground. That is, the distance between the rows should be 15-25 cm, and between the cloves 7-10 cm. The planting depth depends on the type of soil (planting material is planted deeper on sandy loam, and shallower on loam) and the size of the garlic cloves: large and single cloves are planted to a depth (above the planted clove) 6-9 cm, small cloves 5-6 cm.

Advice

On very poor soil, in addition to compost, it would not be a bad idea to add 50-60 g of superphosphate, 30 g of ammonium sulfate or 80-100 g of ammophosphate under the garlic in the fall.

If garlic is planted shallowly, especially in the fall, then the danger of the germinating cloves sticking out to the soil surface increases, which leads to a significant crop shortage.

An important point when planting garlic for the winter

The planted tooth should be in a vertical position. At the same time, its bottom should be well pressed to the ground, then it begins to quickly grow roots. To fulfill these conditions, I plant garlic in pre-cut furrows 8-10 cm deep. With this method of planting, the bottom is not injured, the planting depth and the upward orientation of the clove are maintained.