Making cabinets from chipboard is simple and affordable, using self-assembly technology. The advantages of creating furniture with your own hands Making furniture with your own hands drawing

Assembling furniture yourself at home is a labor-intensive task, but at the same time it is an excellent help for saving the family budget, as well as an opportunity to demonstrate an original design approach and aesthetic flair. Making cabinet furniture with your own hands is not very common, but it brings noticeable benefits and moral satisfaction. The created product can be very stylish and advantageously emphasize the overall interior design.

Select fasteners after you have decided on the base material.

In order to cope with this not very simple but fascinating task yourself, you must have at least initial skills in working with the tool and be attentive and accurate. To create cabinet furniture, you can choose inexpensive parts or use materials available in the house.

The created product can be very stylish and advantageously emphasize the overall interior design.

To assemble a cabinet or chest of drawers, you must first calculate the parameters of the future product. To make cabinet furniture with your own hands, the first thing you need to do is make a drawing with the dimensions of all the parts.

Before making furniture, prepare a drawing of the future product.

You also need to determine what material you will use during assembly. Depending on this, fasteners, tools and auxiliary arsenal (sandpaper, etc.) are selected.

You also need to determine what material you will use during assembly.

Wood as a material can be “capricious”; it is important to choose high-quality boards with a good, even texture, dried and processed. Birch, poplar, maple, aspen and other hardwoods are suitable. Conifers need special conditions, therefore, pine or spruce must be selected in combination with some other variety. Try not to select layered rocks so that the base does not split during processing.

When making cabinet furniture, pay attention to the fact that laminated chipboard may crumble during insertion of fasteners.

Do-it-yourself cabinet furniture can be made of chipboard, MDF or laminated chipboard (the latter option is the most common). These materials are processed differently.

The material requires accuracy and precision in outlines and actions.

All details of the future cabinet must be carefully checked against the drawings and carefully adjusted to the intended dimensions.

Wood as a material can be “capricious”; it is important to choose high-quality boards with a good, even texture, dried and processed.

A specialized store will help you make adjustments (trimming). This can also be done using a ruler, pencil and a wood saw at home.

You can improve it if you want appearance original inserts.

Chipboard panels must be coated with a protective compound - this will reduce the risk of evaporation of resinous substances. Other materials do not require this approach.

Do-it-yourself cabinet furniture can be made of chipboard, MDF or laminated chipboard (the latter option is the most common).

How to work with laminated chipboard - the main material for cabinet furniture?

Material such as laminated particle board, is quite actively used in the manufacture of furniture. Laminated chipboard has a number of undeniable advantages over chipboard:

• holds fasteners better;
• inhibits the evaporation of formaldehyde;
• looks aesthetically pleasing;
• You can choose an interesting texture and color.

Do-it-yourself cabinet furniture requires the ability to process the material, for example, to clean and cover the cuts with an edge that matches the overall surface (this must be done to avoid evaporation of the adhesive composition of the chipboard. It must also be remembered that when cutting to size, chips and cracks of the laminated part are possible. For assembly Cabinet furniture made from laminated chipboard will require care, attentiveness and accuracy.

Material such as laminated chipboard is quite actively used in the manufacture of furniture.

The panels should be coated before assembly, not after, to avoid smudges.

Furniture made from laminated chipboard is not always appropriate in a nursery, especially if the room is small, poorly ventilated or located on sunny side, and the base itself is not very high quality. Resins and chemical compounds can evaporate quickly and create an unfavorable atmosphere. This also applies to chipboard. It is better to prefer solid wood and plywood.

Do-it-yourself cabinet furniture requires the ability to process materials.

What tools are needed?

To assemble cabinet furniture, the tools that you have in the house are suitable:

• screwdrivers;
• screwdrivers;
• Sander;
• jigsaw;
• wood hacksaw;
• ruler;
• simple pencil.

Sandpaper is suitable as a material for cleaning surfaces. In order to measure the elements correctly, it is necessary to do this not on the floor, but on a table, preferably a carpenter's table or something similar. You can use stools as supports when cutting off extra centimeters from the board.

To assemble a cabinet or chest of drawers, you must first calculate the parameters of the future product.

Preparation before assembly

The selected material - chipboard, chipboard or solid wood panels - must be properly processed. Preparing the parts of a cabinet or chest of drawers involves leveling the surfaces, if it is not a laminated base, as well as cleaning them from roughness and burrs. The cut edges of the chipboard can simply be sanded and covered with a matching laminated edge.

Spot lighting is also a practical addition.

Any material that you are going to use must be of high quality and well dried so that after production the product does not create dangerous chemical fumes in the room.

Before assembling cabinet furniture, you need to carefully measure the area where the structure will be installed. For a cabinet with doors, you need to leave a little free space so that the doors can open without the possibility of friction against the walls.

You can use a power tool in your work, which simplifies the attachment of a particular part to the body.

Repeated parts of the future product must be symmetrical to each other, otherwise misalignment is likely.

Select fasteners after you have decided on the base material. Try to buy reliable connecting parts. They should be purchased with a reserve so that if they fail, they can be easily restored.

Sandpaper is suitable as a material for cleaning surfaces.

Main assembly steps

Before making furniture, prepare a drawing of the future product. It is necessary to once again check the dimensions of the cabinet schematically marked on paper with the proportions of the prepared parts.

1. Mark the extra centimeters of the laminated chipboard panels using a simple pencil, saw off along the lines with a wood hacksaw, clean the edges and cover them with an edge.
2. Attach the side, bottom and top panels to the rear panel using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws.
3. Before hanging the doors, mark the locations for the hinges. If the sashes are heavy, increase the number of fasteners, otherwise over time the panels may warp under their own weight. The distance from the edge to the bottom and top loops should not be less than 12-13 cm.
4. Fasten the hinges and check the operation of the doors. They should fit tightly, without gaps or displacements. Don't forget to embed the mini-lock.
5. For a cabinet with sliding doors, you should choose a roller mechanism that will be located at the top and bottom of the panels. Most often, aluminum elements are used for this.
6. If legs are intended, then they need to be made before hanging the doors. After assembling cabinet furniture with your own hands is completed, check the stability of the structure, how level the cabinet is and whether it “sinks” to one side or another.
7. Using self-tapping screws and strips, make supports for the shelves. The latter are adjusted to size after assembling the cabinet body. Special holders are sold for glass shelves that will not damage the base.
8. It is better to equip drawers (if any) with guides, then they will slide out easily and freely, without the possibility of warping and getting stuck.

The selected material - chipboard, chipboard or solid wood panels - must be properly processed

When making cabinet furniture, pay attention to the fact that laminated chipboard may crumble during insertion of fasteners. The material requires accuracy and precision in outlines and actions.

Drying time is required after each coat is applied.

Furniture fittings

The choice of fittings for cabinet furniture is a moment no less important than the assembly itself.

Cabinet hinges	Poorly selected loops can negate the results of your efforts.
Hinge mechanism with four hinges	Today this detail is being used more and more often. Adjustment is carried out both at the fastening stage and after completion of the installation work.
Drawer guides	You can take roller or ball ones.
Handles for drawer lids and cabinet doors	They need to be matched to each other. They may differ in style - it is important to adhere to uniform design for the facade or for internal filling. For children's cabinets or chests of drawers, it is recommended to choose streamlined handles so that the child does not get hurt while moving or playing.

Any material you are going to use must be of high quality and well dried.

Furniture finishing

If desired, you can improve the appearance with original inserts. These can be mirror panels, dividers, various patterns or stencils, or ornaments. Spot lighting is also a practical addition. In addition, it looks quite stylish, especially if there are glass or frosted inserts.

When installing furniture, make sure that straight lines do not fall on it. Sun rays.

Using natural wood It is recommended to cover it with a varnish composition. Finding the right shade is not difficult. To fix, apply the coating two or three times, then the surface will look smooth and even. Drying time is required after each coat is applied. This will make the surface resistant to abrasion and fading. The panels should be coated before assembly, not after, to avoid smudges.

Repeated parts of the future product must be symmetrical to each other, otherwise misalignment is likely

Popular design craquelure varnish makes the facade of the cabinet look original and expensive.

With the help of decoration, you can not only add style to a new piece of furniture, but also elevate an old product.

Advice: When installing furniture, make sure that direct sunlight does not fall on it. This will avoid fading of surfaces and drying out of the wooden base.

To create cabinet furniture, you can choose inexpensive parts or use materials available in the house.

VIDEO: Manufacturing of cabinet furniture. A couple of tricks.

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You bought new clothes, but it turned out that there was no room in the old closet for new things...

The question has arisen about purchasing a new wardrobe for clothes.

You decided that it would be ordinary three-door wardrobe ceiling height. A trip to furniture stores that sell serial furniture revealed that the price of standard cabinets is quite acceptable, but the right size It’s not possible to buy a wardrobe from them. Accordingly, individual manufacturers of “Custom Furniture” have charged you a fairly high price for this order, which you are not willing to pay.

There is an option to save up to 40% on custom furniture orders - this is to make the furniture yourself.

Cabinet project

First you need to draw your future closet on paper. It is imperative to take into account the parameters of the room where it will stand (flatness of the walls and floor, presence of baseboards, etc.).

The standard depth of a wardrobe for clothes is 600 mm. The minimum depth is 500 mm (if the clothes rail is planned to be positioned across the width of the closet), these dimensions are determined by the width of the clothes hangers (hangers).

The depth of the cabinet can be made smaller, but in this case you will have to use a special retractable rod that is placed along the cabinet. In this case, the capacity of the closet is reduced, and you will not be able to hang more than 3 or 4 winter jackets in such a closet.

Let's say you need a 3-door wardrobe with a width of 1200 mm, a height of 2500 mm, a depth of 600 mm with two compartments: the 1st compartment is 800 wide with hangers for clothes, and the 2nd compartment is 400 mm wide. For ease of assembly and installation, as well as for subsequent operation (if you have to move the cabinet), I recommend making two cabinets: one 800 mm wide and the second 400 mm, since this turns out to be a rather large and heavy structure. It is necessary to provide in advance the number of shelves and at what distance they will be from each other.

When setting dimensions, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the chipboard, usually 16 mm.

Also, during the drawing process, it is necessary to immediately determine how the front and horizontal parts will be joined and on which side.

After you’ve managed to draw the cabinet and put down the dimensions, you can make a detailing (list of parts with dimensions).

Cutting, sawing, edging

Now in every medium-sized city you can find organizations that sell laminated chipboard, and as a rule they provide cutting, cutting, and gluing services.

Cutting is the optimization of cutting finished parts and waste. Cutting is usually done using a special software, the use of which helps to save on material. For example: Your cabinet was cut out to 3 sheets of chipboard, 2 of which are completely filled with parts, but there are some trimmings, and the 3rd sheet is only 15% filled. In order not to buy 3 sheets, you can resort to the following tricks:

1. change the direction of the texture on some parts (on the sidewalls the texture is made along the length, it is not changed, but with shelves and internal parts boxes you can experiment with);
2. change the size of the cabinet by 1-2 cm (change the depth of the cabinet from 600 mm to 580 mm or 570 mm) this change will not affect the functionality.

There are some chipboard suppliers that provide a full range of services for the sale of lumber, starting from drawing your project in special 3D programs, ending with the delivery of ready-sawn and edge-faced parts, and sometimes even fitted ones (with drilled holes for fastening fittings), which will only need to be assembled. But you can also do the cutting yourself by downloading a program from the Internet, the only thing you need to know is the size of the chipboard that you plan to buy.

When ordering lumber, do not forget to order fiberboard - this material will go to the back wall of the cabinet and the bottom of the drawers.

Sawing

The sawing is carried out on special format-cutting machines, in which the lumber is cut at once by 2 saws rotating towards each other. This technology allows you to avoid the formation of chips in the material and cut workpieces with maximum accuracy in accordance with the specified dimensions.

Edge banding

Kitchens and wardrobes are almost the easiest types of furniture to assemble for novice craftsmen (not counting only bedside tables and shelves). In general, furniture for the living room and bedroom usually requires a more serious approach, the use of non-standard materials, glass. This article will help beginners understand how to make furniture themselves.

Wood in its pure form is practically no longer used in cabinet furniture; solid wood is considered an expensive luxury material.

Now wood is being replaced with a cheaper material - laminated chipboard (abbreviated laminated chipboard). Most often, these boards have a thickness of 16 mm; chipboards with a thickness of 10 and 22 mm can also be found on sale. 10mm sheets are typically used to fill wardrobe doors, and 22mm sheets are used for bookcases and shelves where high bending strength is required. Also, sometimes the structure is decorated with elements made from 22 mm laminated chipboard.

Almost all furniture parts are made from 16 mm laminated chipboard (except for doors and facades).

Laminated chipboard

Laminated chipboard is cut on special machines along guides. Of course, you can saw it off at home using a jigsaw, but then there will be chips and wavy irregularities on the edges. It is almost impossible to saw off chipboard evenly with a jigsaw at home.

Edges

The most vulnerable place of laminated chipboard is when it is cut down. It is easiest for moisture to penetrate through it, so when poor defense soon the ends may swell. Therefore, the ends are closed using edges; there are several types of them.

• • Melamine edge is the cheapest, but of poor quality. You can stick it on at home using an iron.

• • PVC edge 0.4 and 2 mm – best option. It can only be glued on a special machine, so it is done immediately when ordering a cut. To save money, 0.4 mm is glued to the invisible ends, and 2 mm to the external ones, which will experience constant loads and friction.

PVC edge 2 mm

• • ABS edge is similar to PVC, but made from environmentally friendly material.
  • Mortise T-shaped profile - inserted into a groove previously made with a milling cutter. Rarely used.

• • Overhead U-profile - can be easily glued to liquid nails at home. The main disadvantage is that the edges will protrude a few millimeters, so dirt will get stuck under it. On the other hand, this drawback allows you to hide a poor-quality cut.

Facades

Kitchen fronts and furniture doors are usually made of more elegant materials. But if you are making a drawer door inside a sliding wardrobe that no one will see, you can use regular 16 mm laminated chipboard with a 2 mm PVC edge for it. But the cabinets in the kitchen should look more presentable.

The facade is a separate furniture element. It is usually made to order. If the dimensions of the facades are non-standard, their production may take several months.

By standard sizes you can easily navigate: usually the facades are made 2 mm smaller than the cabinet itself on each side. Therefore, for a standard 600 mm cabinet, a 596 mm façade is used.

The height of the kitchen cabinet also depends on the facade and ranges from 715 to 725 mm for floor cabinets (without legs) and low wall cabinets, and 915-925 mm for high wall cabinets.

Types of facades

Since facades serve mainly a decorative function, the choice is huge; they differ in appearance and material.

• • Facades made of laminated MDF. This is a pressed material, more moisture-resistant and dense compared to chipboard. Most often, the surface is laminated to look like wood. But no matter how strong the film is, over time it can come off at the edges and crack. The main advantage of this material is its low price and fast production.

MDF facades

• • In addition to standard blank facades, there are also options with figured cutouts for stained glass. The glass is attached to the cover on the reverse side.
  • Softforming - such facades are similar to ordinary MDF, but have a characteristic two-color layout with relief on both sides. They can only be used in dry rooms, bedrooms or living rooms.

• • Postforming – even higher quality and durable products. Thin plastic at the edges is wrapped 90° or 180°, thereby eliminating unnecessary seams at the corners. Chipboard or MDF boards are used as the base. Usually postforming is done strict form, without unnecessary pretentious decorative elements.

• • Plastic facades are of high quality, but expensive. They consist of a base (chipboard/MDF) lined on both sides with thick plastic. They always have a strict design and a flat surface, glossy or matte. The edges of the slab are sometimes protected with ABS edges or aluminum profiles. IN Lately Super glossy acrylic plastic is especially popular.

Plastic facades in aluminum profile

• • Facades made of wood and veneer are suitable for lovers of natural materials, but they are expensive. In addition, there is a long debate about environmental friendliness: there is an opinion that there is so much varnish and impregnation that there is only one name left for the tree.

• • Painted facades to resemble enamel. They have a significant drawback - the surface is vulnerable to scratches and deformations, and has low chemical resistance. They used to be popular due to their rich color, but with the advent of glossy acrylic plastic, everything changed.

• Aluminum facades with glass are suitable for a high-tech kitchen. They look modern, but are difficult to manufacture and install. Non-standard fittings are used for their fastening.

Back walls and bottoms of drawers

The back wall and bottom of the drawers are most often made of HDF. The smooth side of the sheet should face the inside of the cabinet/drawer. The thickness of the sheets is 3-5 mm, the color is selected to match the chipboard.

Some people prefer to attach HDF to a furniture stapler, but this cannot be done. Over time, the brackets will become loose and the structure may warp. It’s not worth talking about the bottom of the drawers - a stapler is clearly not suitable for fastening.

Furniture LDVP

Sometimes it is inserted into a groove prepared with a milling cutter, but all dimensions must match down to the millimeter.

Most often, HDF is attached to nails or self-tapping screws. It is better to use self-tapping screws with a press washer, but before screwing them in, you must drill a hole, otherwise the product may crack.

In rare cases, for example, to create a “stiffener” in a tall cabinet or in drawers with high loads, fiberboard is replaced with laminated chipboard. These materials can also be combined.

Tabletops

Table top – horizontal working surface, on which you can cook, eat, read, write, etc.

Most office and desks, as well as in cheap dining rooms, the tabletop is made of the same laminated chipboard as the main parts. The thickness is 16 or 22 mm, it is necessary to frame it with a 2 mm PVC edge.

Special countertops are used for the kitchen. They are a sheet of chipboard 28-38 mm thick, which is covered on top with durable plastic using postforming technology. Moisture-resistant countertops have green color on the cut, and ordinary chipboard is gray. Correct kitchen countertop must have a drip tray that will prevent the flowing liquid from getting onto the facades and drawers.

The weak point of such countertops is the cut edge. They are usually covered with a simple melamine edge, so they become unusable within the first year of use. To avoid this, it is recommended to protect the edges with special aluminum profiles (end strip), and to protect against moisture, pre-coat the cut with silicone sealant.

There are also other types of profiles: corner and connecting strips, which are needed for joining several cabinets with different countertops.

Corner, connecting and end strip for table top

One more element - decorative corner, which closes the gap between the wall and the countertop.

Sometimes used to finish an apron wall panel. Unlike tiles or mosaics, it is more practical due to the absence of seams and is inexpensive compared to glass splashbacks.

The tabletop is attached to the cabinets from below using short self-tapping screws to horizontal spacers so as not to spoil the smooth front surface.

Countertops made from natural or artificial stone are higher quality and more durable than others. A natural stone heavy and demanding special care due to high porosity. A fake diamond has no such disadvantages, it can be given any size and shape. Main disadvantage stone countertops– high price, for a small kitchen they cost from 40 thousand rubles. and more.

An alternative option is a countertop made of tiles or porcelain stoneware. You can make it yourself, but the tiles cannot be mounted on regular plywood or chipboard. The base must first be covered with cement-fiber sheets.

Location of parts

A detail is any element of cabinet furniture: lids, tabletops, walls, facades, shelves. Each part can be either nested or invoice. Right choice the type of location is very important.

Let's look at examples of two kitchen cabinets: one of them will stand on legs, and the second will be hanging.

Base cabinet:

As can be seen in the photo, the operating stress in the floor-standing cabinet is directed downwards from the lid and in the first option is naturally transmitted through the parts to the cabinet legs.

In the second, incorrect option, the load is transmitted through the confirmat (furniture screw), and because of this it will be torn out of the part at a fracture.

Wall cabinet:

In the second example, the opposite is true: the load will go to the bottom shelf, and the attachment point will be on top.

If we use the same fastening scheme here as in the floor cabinet (option 1), all 4 bolts will be constantly under the load of being pulled out of the wood. Therefore, it is better if the confirmations experience stress on the fracture (see diagram “correctly”).

Furniture fasteners

Furniture fasteners are hardware ( hardware), which are used to connect parts. Most often, connections are made at right angles.

• • Wooden dowels - inserted in advance drilled holes in both details. They are used for preliminary fixation and increasing the shear load, then the parts are fixed in a more reliable way.

• • Furniture corners - a popular but outdated look furniture fastening. Among the disadvantages: appearance, loosening over time and bulkiness.

Furniture corner

Main disadvantage This type of fastening means that screwed-in caps remain visible. To hide them, use plastic plugs matching the color of the chipboard.

Furniture fittings

• • Handles - everything is clear here. They are usually attached with screws.
  • Legs are convenient in rooms where wet floor cleaning is often done, for example, in the kitchen. Any wood, especially chipboard, will quickly deteriorate from daily contact with water. In addition, the legs can be used to level furniture on uneven surfaces.
  • A silicone damper is a cheap but very useful part that can reduce the noise of impacts from cabinet doors. It is glued to the top and bottom of the cabinet door or end to soften the impact.

• • Furniture hinges. Round cutouts for them (additives) in the facades can be made in any furniture workshop, if the manufacturer has not made them in advance. The hinges differ in the degree of door opening. Standard hinges have an opening angle of 180° and a closed angle of 90°.
    The hinges have a special mechanism that allows you to adjust the doors in height and seating depth. Separate hinges are sold for glass doors; you can clamp the glass into them without drilling a hole.

Furniture hinges

Among the inexpensive manufacturers of accessories, we can recommend the Chinese Boyard, and among the serious global manufacturers, the Austrian Blum.

Drawers and slides

There are many ways to make furniture boxes. The simplest of them is to assemble a perimeter from laminated chipboard. If a beautiful facade is required, it is screwed onto the main frame from the inside (like the tabletop). The façade can also be secured to eccentrics as the fourth wall of the drawer.

But the main thing is not to assemble the drawer, but to secure it correctly.

Drawer guides are divided into roller or ball guides.

• • Roller guides are usually attached to the bottom of the drawer. He will ride on them on two rollers. A pair of such guides costs about 150 rubles, but it is highly not recommended to use them. The main disadvantage is that they do not allow the drawer to be pulled out completely; a heavy drawer in the more than half-open position may simply fall.
  • Ball guides, or as they are also called, “full extension telescopic guides,” can exactly double the length. They have many balls inside, like bearings, so they provide a smooth ride.

Roller and ball guides for drawers

• In addition, Blum has metaboxes and tandemboxes. These are ready-made side walls of drawers with installed guides. All that remains is to install the façade, back wall and bottom.

Doors for sliding wardrobes

The sliding wardrobe can be separate (with side and back walls), or built into a niche or corner (with one side wall). Internal filling can be anything: regular shelves and mezzanines, drawers and baskets, clothes rails, special hangers for trousers, ties, etc.

The main element of the wardrobe is sliding doors. You can’t save on them; you need to buy high-quality fittings, otherwise you’ll suffer with falling and jamming doors. In almost any city, finding domestic Aristo sliding systems in specialized stores is not a problem.

A sliding wardrobe usually has 2-3 doors. They consist of a profiled frame into which they insert decorative elements: mirrors and glass, chipboard, rattan sheets, bamboo, artificial leather (based). Each door can be assembled from a combination of several such materials, which are separated by an aluminum profile. It is not recommended to make doors more than 1 m in width.

Standard profiles are designed for a sheet thickness of 10 mm. But how to insert a 4 mm thick mirror into it? To do this, put a silicone seal on the edge of the mirror. To prevent broken glass from injuring anyone in the event of an impact, you need to order a mirror with a film glued to the reverse side.

The doors move along guides; they are installed at the top and bottom. The lower doors provide forward and backward movement, and the upper ones fix the door relative to the depth of the cabinet.

The bottom rollers are usually made of plastic, have a shock-absorbing spring and a screw for height adjustment. The upper rollers have a rubberized surface.
With the proper approach, homemade furniture turns out to be cheaper and of better quality than that displayed in stores. But besides this, it will be exclusive, precisely suited to the needs of the owners and the characteristics of the room.

It is difficult to imagine a room without cabinet furniture, and the most common item in this part of the interior is the closet. Do-it-yourself cabinet furniture can be made based on the dimensions and purpose of the room. In addition, it will cost much less than the factory model. If the apartment is not so large, it is preferable to install a wardrobe in its space, which will not take up much space when open doors. But if you place mirrors on them, the piece of furniture will also become multifunctional.

Tools and materials

• melamine self-adhesive edge;
• seals;
• sliding system;
• hardboard;
• barbell;
• confirmations;
• self-tapping screws;
• a circular saw.

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Preparing parts

You can make cabinet furniture using chipboard, the thickness of which is 18 mm.

In order to get a more aesthetic piece of furniture, you need to use a melamine self-adhesive edge with a thickness of 0.5 mm. When making facades, you can use a sliding system and seals.

To make such cabinet furniture with your own hands, you need to use chipboard of different colors.

Before assembly you will need to prepare:

Figure 1. Drilling holes for confirmations.

• cabinet sides in the amount of 2 pcs. each of which should have a size of 2400x650 mm;
• a partition with dimensions of 2284x550 mm, on which it is immediately recommended to mark the left and right sides;
• the top cover with dimensions equal to 1200x750 mm, it should be rounded and made with a protrusion forward of 100 mm in relation to the sides, this will add aesthetics;
• the bottom of the structure with dimensions of 1164x650 mm;
• plinths (front and rear) in the amount of 2 pcs. with dimensions 1164x100 mm;
• left shelves in the amount of 3 pcs. with dimensions equal to 500x550 mm;
• right shelves (3 pcs.) – 646x550 mm;
• drawer fronts (2 pcs.) – 495x200 mm;
• side elements of drawers (4 pcs.) – 500x150 mm;
• front and rear elements of drawers (4 pcs.) – 438x150 mm.

You will need to prepare the following elements using hardboard:

• bottom of drawers (2 pcs.) – 472x500 mm;
• rear wall of the cabinet – 2315x1195 mm.

To install cabinet furniture close to the wall, you need to make a selection under the baseboard. You can make a barbell from the corresponding element round section, the diameter of which is 22 mm. To secure it, end fasteners will be needed. The length of the rod blanks should be 1 mm less than the width of the floors, i.e. 645 and 499 mm. This will allow you to get a gap for comfortable installation.

When making such cabinet furniture, the elements can be prepared using circular saw, which has a disk with pobeditovy soldering.

If such a tool is not available, then it is preferable to entrust the cutting to professionals, but it is better to do the fastening of the edge yourself. Gluing the edges yourself will save you a lot of money. In this case, you can use an iron, the power of which should be set to ¾ of the maximum power.

To fix the edge, you need to attach it with the adhesive side to the end and iron it several times. The treated edge should be ironed with a dry rag, which will allow the edges to be pressed more tightly, and the excess should be removed using a dull knife, this will eliminate the possibility of damage to the laminate. If roughness occurs, it is preferable to get rid of them using fine-grained sandpaper, it should be wrapped around a cigarette case or an object that is similar in shape.

Do-it-yourself cabinet furniture can be assembled using confirmations, which will allow you to get quite robust construction. The size of the said fasteners should be 5x70 mm. In Fig. 1 you can see in which elements you need to make holes in the end parts, and in which you need to make holes in the plane. It is worth noting that through holes need to be drilled in the plane, the diameter of which is 8 mm, while at the ends the holes should have a diameter of 5 mm and a depth of 60 mm.

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Marking the sidewalls and partitions of the structure

Figure 2. Assembly diagram of cabinet drawers.

The axles for the shelves need to be marked on top of the sidewalls and partitions. The height of all shelves can be determined independently depending on desire, with the exception of one shelf.

The left shelf, located above the drawers, should be marked along the axis of the confirmations: 537 mm should be set aside from the bottom of the sidewall, while 419 mm should be set aside from the bottom of the partition.

You can make cabinet furniture with your own hands correctly only by following the fastening lines, which also applies to drawer guides. Thus, from the bottom of the sidewall you need to set aside 215 and 410 mm, and from the bottom of the partition - 97 and 292 mm.

The guides, the length of which is 500 mm, should be located at a distance of 30 mm from the rear ends of the sidewall and partition, since in the described design the drawer fronts will be internal.

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Cabinet assembly process

In Fig. Figure 2 shows how to install the drawers; the drawing can also be used in the process of assembling the cabinet, since it differs from the drawers only in dimensions. To tighten the ties, it will be necessary to use a hex bit; twisting with it will be easier than with a hand wrench.

When making the described furniture with your own hands, it is better to abandon nails when fastening the bottom, since such fasteners will not be reliable. It is preferable to use self-tapping screws with dimensions of 4x16. However, the back wall can be reinforced with nails, since less pressure will be exerted on it.

The guides along which the doors will move can be reinforced with self-tapping screws with the same dimensions of 4x16 mm; the pitch from the front edge of the sidewalls and bottom is preferably adjusted on site.

It is recommended to make such a cabinet using the Komandor sliding system, since its advantage lies not only in the ease of sliding of the doors, but also in the possibility of their easy adjustment in order to get rid of cracks. This will be required during operation, since cabinet furniture of this size will begin to sag and shrink, changing linear dimensions, subjected to significant loads.

Such cabinet furniture is made by hand in short time. The assembly process without preparing parts can take about 3 hours. If desired, internal or external lighting, as well as closers, can be installed in such a design. It is permissible to supplement the closet with mini chests of drawers. If the dimensions of the structure need to be increased by adding one more to the two existing sashes, the horizontal dimensions will need to be added required amount millimeters. In this case, the internal contents of the cabinet can be increased.

-> Manufacturing, construction, Agriculture

Furniture manufacturing business

Have you ever tried to make furniture yourself, with your own hands? At home. At home, in the garage...

If you are not at all familiar with this issue in general and the process of organizing a furniture manufacturing business in the so-called “home environment” (as a consequence of this knowledge and skills), then I will tell you that this is done in an elementary way!

Learn make furniture yourself and, perhaps, start your own furniture business- believe me, this is available to everyone!

That's what you think it is furniture business in Russian today?

And this is a business that:

Does not require large financial investments;
- has profitability from 80 to 300%;
- a product that is used by all people;
- can exist and develop regardless of the technical equipment of your future enterprise;
- will never end;
- every year it develops more and more.

A business that people are already doing and quite successfully. A business that even a full-time student can start.

Piece manufacturing and mass production of furniture today have become outrageously simple...

This can no longer be called production... Rather, it is a process that can be called: “Assemble a construction set without outside help if you are over 14 years old.”

Today there is a real opportunity make it yourself high quality, modern, absolutely any furniture, any configuration that you are used to seeing in a store - be it a kitchen, a wardrobe, a wall...

And in order to make this furniture, you do not need to have any machines - only a computer, a printer, a hand drill and a small amount of manual (not electric) small tools in the form of screwdrivers, a hammer, etc. And of course, knowledge of how it is all assembled , I emphasize, is not manufactured, but assembled.

Does this sound implausible to you?

But what if I told you that making modern, luxury furniture, which is sold in expensive, supposedly Italian showrooms, which has more “bells and whistles” than a car, is no more difficult to make than assembling a computer from components. Of course, provided that you understand something about this...

What if I also add that this furniture is not made in Italy, but in the garages closest to the store?

Yes, yes, I'm talking about the very kitchen that you dream about all your life, with aluminum or wooden facade... a tabletop reminiscent of natural granite... with smoothly opening wide drawers... with self-opening facades... with a granite sink... with various chrome tubes, baskets, drainers, and aluminum profiles... The one that costs from 80,000 rubles...
About that very wardrobe, which has huge aluminum doors with a huge mirror and a cooler filling than in a BMW... which also costs more than one thousand dollars...

You simply don’t know anything about how furniture is made today!

Making furniture at home? Easy to learn!

You will learn many secrets furniture business which anyone can do who has never thought of doing it before engage in furniture production.

And the most interesting thing is that you do not have to invest a lot of money in this business, but at the same time, this business has a profitability of 80% or higher.

And even a full-time student can do it in his free time from studying.

“How can this be?!”, you ask, “If a business has at least some profitability, therefore, you need to invest at least some amount of money in it in order to make a profit.”

That's right. But it’s not you who will be investing the money. You can be 100% sure of this. You will only need a minimum set of tools, which almost every owner has, and a place to assemble finished parts...

To make your own furniture, you don't have to have a special technical education and have innate design skills. Anyone (even a housewife or a child over 10 years old) can independently design and manufacture almost any cabinet furniture without outside help. At worst, if you doubt your creativity, you can always recreate furniture from any photograph or picture from a furniture magazine that catches your eye.
Can you imagine the seriousness of such knowledge and skill and what role it can play in your life?!

Let's look at specific example manufacturing the most complex type of furniture - the kitchen. Why is the kitchen the most complex look? Because the kitchen package includes the most different fittings and materials, this is the first thing, and the second is that all the details are small, and even the smallest defects immediately catch the eye.

Let's take this expensive kitchen as a basis:

What can you say about her? Large expensive kitchen, made of the most modern materials. It is relatively expensive, 48,000 rubles excluding household appliances, stove, oven and microwave oven. Honestly, its price in the store will be higher by 15 thousand for sure.

The facade is made of framed MDF and has a built-in household appliances, lighting, deep drawers, rails, long handles. The boxes are made of high-quality German laminated chipboard, the fittings are also German, from Hettich. The kitchen is no worse than its Western counterparts, either in quality or price.

Can you make such a kitchen yourself? No? What's the difficulty? Don't know how to do this? Well, okay, I'll try to convince you otherwise.

Take another close look at this kitchen. Would you be able to assemble it if you were given everything disassembled, with a clear sketch of each individual cabinet or bedside table and all the necessary bolts and nuts attached to this “designer”?

Have you thought about it? What if they gave you, say, 24,000 rubles for collecting it? And on top of that for installation 8% percent of the total cost, which will be another 4,000 rubles?

Would it be worth the effort for 5-7 days?

Do you think no one will give that much for assembling a kitchen? They will! You just need to think about it a little. Of course, if you buy such a kitchen in a store, you will receive no more than 3% of the cost for assembly, and if you “make it” yourself, you will receive no less than 50% of its cost.

Your task is to find everything and order it in certain sizes or buy it.

That is, at the first stage, you need to make clear documentation for the product, in which you will have to write down for yourself all the materials and accessories necessary for the manufacture of the kitchen and calculate all the possible costs of making the order.

The material is purchased at a regular warehouse, and sawing is also ordered there. Facades, countertops, fittings, and components are made in huge factories; they have representative offices in every city. So when purchasing, you are on an equal footing with all furniture makers. They also buy everything in a specialty store. You can buy anything, if it is not in stock, it will be delivered to order. Glass is cut in glass workshops to your size. We submitted an application indicating the glass name and size, and received the finished glass...

What then comes of all this?

All you need is to drill holes for the Euro screed to assemble the furniture, install all the necessary fittings, handles, hinges, guides.

Well, everything like that... All this can be done in any garage, on the balcony, or even locally in the apartment.

Let's say, in order to assemble the kitchen that you saw above, you need to spend a maximum of 5-7 days on everything (or sacrifice three days off) - from the delivery of materials to the installation of the finished product.