Correct installation of a toilet in a private house with your own hands: step-by-step instructions. Installing a toilet with your own hands: useful instructions for different models Installing toilets with a cistern directly attached

In cases where there is a desire to save on the services of specialists or simply learn a new construction skill, information on how to properly install a toilet will be useful.

What you need for installation

Before installing a toilet with your own hands, you need to make sure you have a number of tools:

• hammer drill or impact drill;
• a drill with a diameter of 8-10 mm (depending on the diameter of the toilet dowel);
• tile drill (if installation is carried out on a tile or ceramic slab);
• adjustable wrench;
• set of wrenches;
• hammer;
• sealant (either in a special tube or together with a sealant gun);
• screwdrivers (flat or Phillips, depending on the design of the toilet);
• adapter sleeve made of rubber 123x100 (if you need to connect to a cast iron socket);
• a set of fasteners for installing a toilet (if it is not included in the kit);
• rags and a container to drain the remaining water from the old toilet.

Before installing the toilet, you need to do some preparatory work. For example, you need to decide how exactly to connect the new toilet to the sewer pipe. The following options are possible:

• Pleated cuff. This method is the most economical, but in this case the toilet cannot be attached close to the socket. This matters if the bathroom is small.
• Straight cuff. Firmly and hermetically connects the bowl of the structure with the socket of the sewer system.
• Eccentric cuff. Convenient if the connection centers of the system and the socket are shifted.

Next, it is advisable to replace the old one flexible liner for water. The choice of liner is based on the distance from the connections on the pipe with cold water before connecting the toilet filler mechanism. 15-20 cm should be added to this length.

If necessary, you need to purchase adapters in advance for threads at the connection points made of flax or FUM tape.

If there is a wooden stand under the old toilet, it must be removed. A nail puller or hammer drill will help with this. You can fill the resulting void with a cement composition, preferably quick hardening, and a spatula.

Video - Self-installation of a toilet

DIY toilet installation

• First you need to turn off the water. Disconnect the flexible hose and flush the toilet.
• Then you need to unpin drain tank. You can do it carefully, or you can use a hammer (in case the old toilet is no longer needed).
• You can quickly remove the toilet using a hammer and a hammer drill.

Carefully, so that fragments do not fall into the sewer system, use tools at the place where the toilet is attached to the floor and where the device meets the sewer. Then you need to remove the old bowl by pouring out the remaining water.

Removing the wood plank and leveling the floor

• After the old toilet is removed, you need to thoroughly clean the sewer pipe from dirt and rust. Install a rubber adapter sleeve 123x100 into the socket, having previously covered it with sanitary sealant.
• Then plug the hole with a rag so that odors do not interfere with further work.
• Next you need to delete wooden board and fill the resulting void with repair composition.
• Level with the floor using a spatula.

Marking and installation of dowels

• Place the bowl of the new toilet in the planned location. Make markings through the holes in the bowl on the floor so you can see where to drill. The holes in the toilet bowl are located at an angle, in which case you also need to drill at an angle.
• Once the markings have been made, the toilet can be removed. Next, you need to drill holes in the previously marked locations and insert dowels.

Securing the toilet cistern

• In accordance with the instructions supplied with the toilet, you need to install the cistern fittings. There are some peculiarities in this procedure.
• The drain and fill valve nuts must be tightened by hand, while at the same time holding the valve itself, thereby protecting it from turning and possibly damaging the gasket.
• The valves must be installed so that during operation the moving elements do not touch each other or the walls of the tank.
• If you are unsure about the quality of the tank walls and gaskets, sanitary sealant should be used.

The drainage mechanism is available in a collapsible type to facilitate the installation process.

Installing a toilet bowl

• The connecting cuff is attached with the petal part to the transition cuff 123x100, inserted into the socket pre-treated with sealant. The outlet of the toilet bowl is inserted into the transition collar until it stops.
• You should turn the cuff so that the toilet bowl is in a level position and all the mounting holes are aligned.
• The bowl is secured to the floor surface with screws and plastic washers. In cases where the floor surface is uneven, you need to use shims made from pieces of plastic to level the toilet before finally tightening it.

Connection between bowl and drain tank

Before installing the drain tank on the bowl of the structure, you need to put a gasket between them. For reliability and to avoid displacement of the gasket, it is better to glue it to the bowl with sealant in advance.
After securing the tank to the bowl, tighten the screws evenly. After this, install the tank lid and the drain button. Then secure the flexible liner.

Checking the functioning of the system

At the end of all work, you need to carry out a check - fill the tank with water and do a test drain. The amount of water drained can be adjusted; how to do this is written in the instructions.
Inspect all elements for any leaks. If they occur, check the tension strength and, if necessary, disassemble the assembly, re-treat it with sealant, then tighten it properly.
If the reason is a faulty part, purchase a new part and replace it.

Final stage

Install the toilet seat and fill the gaps between the toilet and the floor surface with sealant.

Doing such work with your own hands is not particularly difficult if you adhere to the above recommendations and rules. Good luck!

Sooner or later the need arises to change the plumbing. Recently, many owners prefer to carry out installation work themselves. Later in the article we will figure out how to properly install a toilet.

general information

Before installing a toilet with your own hands, you need to select it. The main criterion in this matter will be the size of the room. So, for a typical bathroom, a “compact” toilet model of imported or domestic production is suitable. Experts recommend purchasing a product similar to the one installed previously or with the same type of fastening system. It must be said that installation different types toilets are different. As a rule, the differences consist in the need to connect special equipment and additional functions. Modern models come with fairly detailed instructions for different languages, including in Russian.

Important points

Before purchasing a new toilet, you should carefully inspect the old product. You need to pay attention to:

• Release angle. Today various models are produced. The angle can be oblique, straight or vertical. You should measure the height of the outlet to the floor. If the outlet does not match in the model of the selected product, you can additionally purchase a drain adapter corrugation.
• Water connection. Traditionally, bottom or side eyeliner is used. A flexible hose is installed. When choosing a new plumbing fixture, you should consider the length of the liner. Before installing the toilet, you should purchase a new hose.
• Mounting method. The old toilet can be fixed to the floor using two bolts. In this case, you need to purchase another set of fasteners. In some bathrooms, the device is cemented into the surface. In this case, you will need to break the floor screed until the wooden insert appears.

Before installing a toilet with your own hands, you should also check the method of shutting off the water supply to the tank - from a common riser or locally. In the first case, you will have to contact local plumbers. It is also necessary to assess the condition of sewer and water pipes throughout the apartment. You may need to replace some elements before installing the toilet. Before starting work, you should prepare the following tools:

• Drill and drill bit diameter 10.
• Hammer.
• To assemble the tank - 2 wrenches.
• Silicone sealant.

Preparation for dismantling

Before installing the toilet with your own hands, you should remove the old product. Dismantling is carried out in several stages:

Dismantling

The first step is to remove the fastening to the floor. The bolts (if the old toilet is screwed on) are unscrewed. If the toilet is filled with cement, then the screed is broken if possible. If this is difficult to do, you will have to hit the plumbing object in the places where it is fixed. After the toilet is removed, it needs to be tilted back. This is necessary in order to drain the remaining water from the cavities. Next you need to disconnect the bell. The corrugation is simply removed. If a cast iron or plastic socket is installed, then it must be disassembled to the first connection or cut down to size. This is done after the toilet is removed.

Next, a corrugation should be inserted into the sewer socket. On the joint side, the element must be lubricated with sealant. The bell should be cleaned from the inside and also lubricated. The corrugation is inserted all the way. After this, it is better to plug the entrance with an old rag or close it with a special plug to prevent the spread of sewer smell.

Old fastenings

If the floor is flat (screeded or tiled), before installing the toilet on a tile or cement base, the previous fixing elements should be removed. If the new product has similar fasteners, then the parts are installed in the old places. The old plastic dowels are drilled out. New ones are inserted in their place. The holes may be wider than the dowels. In this case, the product will not be secured securely. To prevent this, new holes should be prepared. The toilet assembly is placed at the fixation point. Next, you should mark the fastening areas, taking into account the dimensions of the product, the length of the corrugation and the liner. The dowels must be carefully driven into the prepared holes. Items should fit easily. From proper preparation holes will determine the further stability of the toilet.

Screed

If the plumbing product was filled with mortar, then before installing the toilet, you need to make a new base. After removing the old product, the wooden lining will be visible in the recesses. The floor is leveled with a thick cement mortar, the toilet is placed on top and screwed. After the screed has dried, the bolts are finally tightened. There is one point to consider here. The wooden lining may rot over time. If the installation of the strip is not intended, then pour the screed and allow it to dry for 2-3 days.

We install the toilet ourselves

A new product is placed at the prepared fastening point. The fasteners are tightened alternately - one and the other should be tightened evenly. The product is assembled together with the drain tank. Usually, modern models made in the form of a “compact” design. In this case, the toilet and cistern are already connected to each other. When installing products equipped with automatic system drawing and draining water, usually there are no difficulties. However, attention should be paid to the assembly and adjustment of the float valve. This element is responsible for the volume and pressure of incoming water. The next step is to fix the flexible liner. One end is screwed to the water supply. Then you should open the tap a little and drain a little water. This is necessary to flush the pipe from the inside. Next, the water is closed, the second end of the hose is connected to the toilet. Here it is necessary to check the reliability of the rubber pads located under the nuts. Here's how to install a toilet correctly.

System check

After installation is completed, you need to check the work. Water opens in the system. While it is being poured into the tank, you should carefully inspect all connections and check for leaks. Next you need to drain the water several times. This is how you check for leaks in sewer connections. After a few hours, you should carefully inspect everything again. Here's how to install a toilet yourself.

Custom design

Often there is so little space in bathrooms that many owners decide to install wall hung toilet. It should be noted that the installation of this product is somewhat more complicated than that described above. How to install a wall-hung toilet? More on this later.

General information

The product itself and the tank are mounted on the wall. For this, a supporting frame is used - a frame. It is usually mounted in a wall (in a niche) and closed decorative panel. The depth of the niche will depend on the width of the tank. In this case, technical gaps of 1-1.5 cm should also be taken into account. The sewer pipe, which also closes in a niche, must have a horizontal socket. If it is not possible to make a recess in the wall, then the frame is installed close to the surface. The top can be covered with plasterboard and covered with tiles, like walls. The design of the wall-hung toilet allows you to disguise all communications. Outside there will only be the product itself and the flush button.

Frame installation

The height of the assembled frame, as a rule, is 1.3-1.4 m. The lower part of the frame should be equipped with adjusting screws. Brackets are installed on top. With their help, the vertical position of the frame is adjusted. The drain button is located at a height of about a meter from the floor. The toilet seat should be at a level of about 40-42 cm. Partially, the exact dimensions will depend on the preferences of the apartment’s inhabitants, partly on the product model itself and the position of the sewer pipe. As a rule, there is free space under the structure. This is quite convenient when cleaning the room. The supporting frame is installed strictly in a vertical position. Use a level for leveling. The future location of the frame can be determined using plumb lines. After this, holes are drilled in the wall and floor. Dowels are inserted into them. After this, the frame is installed and the horizontal position is adjusted using screws. Vertical alignment is carried out using brackets. After giving the frame the required position, it is fixed with locknuts.

The final stage of frame installation

How to install the tank? In this case, the element is not attached to the toilet. Installation is carried out on the frame. After installation, the tank should be connected using a flexible hose to the water supply pipe. Then you need to adjust the elbow adapter to length. It connects the outlet pipe socket and the toilet outlet. After this, pins are mounted to secure the bowl of the plumbing fixture itself. Corners are installed along the perimeter of the frame. The sheathing will be fixed to them. All the necessary holes are cut out on its front surface - for pins, pipes and a release button.

Completing the toilet installation

The product is attached to the selected location after the frame covering and other materials are completed. Finishing work. In the area where the toilet is installed, the wall must be perfectly flat. A special paste must be applied to this place. As a leveling mixture, you can use white for seams, Portland cement, or white cement. The paste should have the consistency of a thick paste. A gasket is put on the pipes and pins (it comes included), then the toilet is hung and pressed tightly against the wall. At the same time, the nuts should be tightened. The protruding paste must be carefully removed. In conclusion, I need to say a few words about how to install a toilet seat. Actually, there is nothing complicated here. The seat is usually secured with two bolts. These fixing elements can be found included with the product.

The reasons for replacing a toilet can be different: replacing an old one, repairing or rearranging appliances. You can hire specialists, but if you want to save money, it is better to figure out how to install the toilet yourself, without their help.

Installing a toilet is not such a difficult task, but you will have to master several technological operations and follow some rules.

Choosing a new toilet

Scheme for installing a toilet using the open method.

First of all, you will need a new toilet. When choosing a toilet, you need to pay attention to its size and connection. The most the best option is to purchase a toilet similar to the one that stood previously. This is important because you will be sure that you will not have problems with the connection, since all the holes will match. But often you want to buy something completely different, in which case you will face installation difficulties: the necessary spare parts for fastening may be missing, or you may need to redo the sewerage system if the toilet is mounted, for example, on a wall. Classic version The toilet is a floor-standing toilet in which the outlet pipe is located at an angle of 45 degrees to the floor. If you had a toilet of a different design, it is better to make a drawing of it to avoid mistakes when purchasing. But, of course, you can buy any model you like, especially since some come with detailed instructions on their installation.

When purchasing a new toilet, you need to take into account the distance between the edge of the toilet and the side wall; it should not be less than 20-25 cm; the size of the toilet is selected accordingly. The second parameter that must be taken into account is the distance from the floor to the axis fan pipe, which is indicated in the characteristics of the toilet. If the bell is too high, you will have to raise the floor level, which is quite labor-intensive. If the old toilet functioned without problems, then the new one should be installed in the same place.

Materials and tools for installing a toilet

To install the toilet you will need to stock up on:

Scheme of the structure of a compact toilet.

• a hammer drill to make holes in the floor;
• dowels;
• a set of wrenches;
• screwdrivers for mounting the drain tank;
• silicone sealant;
• large adjustable wrench;
• tape:
• polyethylene;
• a piece of thin rubber or old linoleum;
• pencil or marker.

To drill holes, it is better to use a hammer drill; if you don’t have one, you can rent one. If you use a regular drill and set it to impact mode, you can ruin tiles, and the process can take a long time. Using a hammer drill, one hole is made without much effort within 2-3 minutes.

Removing an old toilet

Before installing a new toilet, you need to dismantle the old one, you can handle this yourself. There is an option to reuse an old toilet, for example, in a country house. But from an economic point of view, this is not the best option. All plumbing fixtures are designed for a certain service life, so they can quickly fail if parts are not replaced. Replacing spare parts with new ones can cost the same as buying a new economy class toilet. Therefore, if the toilet has served most of its life, it is better not to reuse it.

Before dismantling, the pipelines must be cleaned. The easiest way is to pour hot water into the sewer pipes with some detergent. If you simply drain the water from the tank, this will not help much, since the old plumbing is being dismantled, and therefore there are deposits inside that will interfere with dismantling. To flush pipes, you need to take 2-3 buckets hot water and dilute one bottle of whiteness or Domestos in them, then all this must be poured into the toilet. Now you can start dismantling.

Toilet installation diagram.

The tank is easiest to dismantle; difficulties may arise with the lower fasteners. IN Soviet times Bolting the toilet to the floor was not common; most often toilets were installed on mortar. Since throughout the country the same plumbing fixtures were installed on concrete floors with nondescript tiles, the described method was widespread. Such a base can only be broken using a puncher and a hammer. Do not forget about safety glasses, as fragments from earthenware can get into your eyes. If the toilet was installed relatively recently, then to dismantle it you need to unscrew the screws that secure it to the floor.

When dismantling an old toilet, some water may spill out, so you need to prepare rags and buckets in advance. Next, you need to seal the sewer pipe using a piece of polyethylene and tape. Polyethylene should simply be wrapped around the hole and secured with tape. This procedure is necessary in order to prevent overflow if too much drainage flows from above. The receiving hole must be cleaned before sealing. If the sewer is cast iron, then you can use a hammer and spatula. If the pipes are plastic, you can clean them with a sharp knife.

After dismantling the old toilet, you need to clear the place where the new device will be installed. If the floor surface was damaged during dismantling, the imperfections can be filled with putty using a repair mortar. There is no need to wait for the solution to dry completely, since the defects are usually small, and there will be support points for the base of the toilet. It takes a month for the cement mixture to dry completely, after which the surface under the toilet will be a monolith.

Installation of a new toilet

The toilet must be installed on a special gasket, suitable for this thin sheet rubber or a piece of old linoleum. The toilet is placed on the found material, and the place where it stands is outlined with a marker, and places for fastening are allocated. Next, use a sharp knife or scissors to cut it all out. The gasket is placed on the floor, applying a thin layer of silicone sealant underneath to ensure the reliability of the structure. The sealant fills uneven areas and provides a good seal, which will prevent moisture and dust from collecting. After completing this operation, you can start drilling. Drilling can be done along the gasket, or before it is installed. With a glued gasket, installation is easier, since it serves as a kind of guide. First, you need to position the toilet so that it is easy to connect to the pipelines, then trace a place on the floor and glue the gasket there. This will be the guideline.

Sometimes you need to raise the toilet a little. For example, if there are two toilets in the system - one in the toilet and the other in the bathroom. To prevent water from stagnating at the lowest point, one of the toilet bowls must be raised by 3-4 cm. For the stand, take a two-inch board, which is cut to size, and a rubber gasket is placed on top of it. All this is held together with silicone sealant.

There are two ways to secure the toilet to the floor: with long metal dowels or large plastic bolts. The simplest and in a convenient way Dowels are considered, they are easier to buy than specialized sanitary fasteners. The sanitary kit consists of 2 long screws, 2 plastic dowels, 2 washers, 2 silicone washers and 2 decorative plastic caps that fit onto the screw heads. First, holes are drilled and then dowels are driven into them. Next, the toilet is installed and screwed to the base. The first stage has been completed, all that remains is to connect the pipelines.

Fittings for the cistern are easy to install; you just need to tighten the necessary nuts. It is more difficult to install the corrugation yourself. The corrugation is a special polymer accordion pipe designed to connect the toilet outlet and the entrance to the sewer. Previously, there was no such accordion pipe, and builders had to fit the toilet to the sewer inlet so that the pipelines connected exactly. The joint was wrapped in a kind of fur coat, for which rags, plaster and paint were used. The corrugation simplified the sealing process.

It is very important to thoroughly lubricate all joints with sealant. Novice craftsmen often lubricate only the lower part of the connections with the corrugation, coupling and sewer. Over time, the sewer may become clogged; all drains may flow through the upper edge, which was not lubricated with sealant. At correct installation It is necessary to apply a thick layer of silicone sealant on both sides of the corrugation in a strip about 2-3 cm wide. The corrugation connects the outlet and the neck of the sewer, and the joints must be pressed down well. After installing the toilet, you should not use it for 4 hours so that the sealant adheres well. The toilet must be installed securely and stable.

How to install a toilet yourself without the help of specialists

You decide to do the repairs yourself, then you need to know how to install the toilet yourself. In this case, you can save your money, since you will not have to resort to the help of specialists.

How to properly install a toilet with your own hands

From our article you will learn how to install a toilet with your own hands. This is a fairly simple operation provided you are able to shut off the supply cold water, and supply and sewer pipes do not need major renovation. In this case, we will install a toilet with a bottom-mounted tank. This option is easier because most of The weight of the tank in this case falls on the toilet. When installing a toilet with an overhead tank, reliable fasteners will be required to support the weight of the latter (for brick walls This is not a problem, but in the case of walls made of hollow materials you will have to resort to special tricks).

1. If during the renovation of the bathroom the floor height has changed slightly, it is necessary to compensate for the difference using an eccentric cuff - the so-called toilet corrugation (for sewerage) and a flexible hose (for supplying cold water). Large changes in height will require the skills of a professional plumber.

2. If the floor in the bathroom is not level enough, it is better to install the toilet on silicone sealant. You can also use small wooden / plastic wedges, but even here you can’t do without sealant, since it allows you to evenly distribute the weight of the toilet.

3. If the sewer pipes go down through the floor and not through the walls, you will need a rectangular elbow or a flexible corrugated cuff. This is not the only difference, but the main one.

Assembly and installation of the toilet cistern

2. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for assembling the tank interior. The sequence of actions depends on the type of drain system used in the model you choose.

3. Make sure all parts are securely fastened, but do not use excessive force when tightening bolts and screws.

4. In most cases, bolts for attaching it to the toilet are sold complete with the tank. Be sure to install the washers and rubber cones before inserting the bolts into their holes.

Installation of a toilet with an installed tank

6. Insert the bellows (corrugated extension) into the sewer pipe, making sure it fits snugly. In our example, a simple straight connecting cuff is required. (When connecting the toilet to a cast iron pipe, you will need an adapter sleeve with a diameter of 110 mm. See photo. It must be generously lubricated with silicone sealant and inserted into a pre-cleaned cast iron pipe see photo. Only after this can the corrugated plastic cuff be inserted into it.

7. Move the toilet towards sewer pipe. Make sure that its outlet is flush with the installed pipe. Most likely, this is the case. But if not and the offset is quite large, then you will need to use an eccentric bellows.

8. Carefully place the toilet in its intended place, placing the cuff over the outlet.

9. Make sure the tank is level using a spirit level along the back wall. Through the back wall of the tank, mark the places on the wall where holes will be made to fix it.

10. Do the same with the toilet itself: check its levelness using a spirit level and mark the locations of the mounting holes on the floor, trying to be as precise as possible.

11. Mark the edges of the toilet base on the floor with a pencil. Knowing the exact position of the “leg” will come in handy when you complete the preparatory work and begin the final installation of the toilet.

12. Move the toilet away from the wall. Drill holes for attaching the tank, focusing on the marks on the wall. Select (taking into account the wall material) and insert dowels.

13. Drill holes in the floor at the points you marked. When drilling ceramic tiles you will need a hammer drill and a concrete drill. At the beginning of drilling, the pressure on the hammer drill should not be too great; after passing through the tile layer, the pressure can be increased. Insert the dowels into the holes. If the floor is wooden, as in our case, they are not needed.

14. Before installing the toilet in place, apply silicone sealant to the floor along the line marked with a pencil, corresponding to the border of the base of the “leg”.

15. Place the toilet in its place. Screw the tank to the wall by inserting washers between the heads of the screws and the wall of the tank. Don't over tighten the screws.

16. Screw the toilet base to the floor. In this case, the same rules apply: firstly, do not forget about the plastic washers, and secondly, do not tighten the screws too tightly.

Connecting water and completing installation

17. Connect the tank to the cold water pipe. You will most likely need a flexible connecting hose for this. The location of the connection depends on the position of the inlet pipe on the new tank.

18. Turn on the water by opening the shut-off valve and make sure there are no leaks at all connections. Also check the tightness of the connection between the toilet and the sewer and coat all connections with silicone sealant.

19. Install the toilet seat as intended by its design. If necessary, adjust the seat to exactly fit the shape of the toilet.

20. Apply silicone caulk around the base of the toilet. Smooth out any unevenness with a damp sponge, achieving a neat look.

How to install a toilet with your own hands - step-by-step instruction Photo

Follow our step-by-step instructions and you will learn how to install a toilet with your own hands and what is needed for this

How to install a toilet yourself

Having “straight” hands, you can do most of the housework yourself. This category of work also includes installing a toilet. Knowing the sequence of actions, installation or replacement can be done with your own hands.

Installing a toilet with your own hands is a task of medium complexity

Types of toilets

In this article, we will consider not the features of flushing or the shape of the bowl, but those design features that determine the list of installation work.

By installation method

The toilet itself consists of a plumbing bowl and a flush cistern. The bowl can be floor-mounted or suspended. If the bowl is suspended, then the tank is hidden - built into the wall. In the case of a floor-standing bowl, there are three options for mounting the tank: on a special shelf on the bowl (compact), separate, connected using a flexible hose, in an installation (hidden in the wall of the frame).

Typical sizes of toilets of different designs

The advantage of a floor-standing toilet with a conventional flush cistern is ease of installation. It can be installed without starting repairs. The disadvantage is that compared to a suspended one, it takes up more space and looks heavier. Accordingly, installation of suspended models is complicated - it requires fastening load-bearing structure- installations - in the wall. Perhaps this is only during renovation.

Release to sewer

The choice of toilet for discharge into the sewer depends on the location of the sewer pipe. They happen:

• with horizontal outlet;
• oblique release;
• vertical.

Types of toilet outlets

If the pipe is in the floor, a vertical outlet will be optimal. If the outlet is in the floor, but is close to the wall, it is most convenient to have an oblique toilet. The horizontal version is universal. Using a corrugated pipe, it can be connected to both the wall and the floor.

Installation of a toilet with a compact cistern (floor-standing version)

The store usually delivers the toilet bowl, tank, flush device and float separately. Before installing the toilet, everything except the float must be assembled.

What does a floor-standing toilet with a compact cistern consist of?

The process begins with the installation of a drainage device. It comes assembled, you only need to install it in the hole in the bottom of the tank. A rubber gasket is placed between the drainage device and the tank.

We install the drain mechanism inside the tank, first placing a rubber gasket

WITH reverse side The supplied plastic washer is screwed onto the pipe. It is tightened by hand, then using a key, but very carefully, since it is easy to break the plastic. To prevent the drain device from spinning, it must be held with your hand.

Carefully tighten the nut

The next step is to install the mounting screws on the tank. They are also included as standard. These are long thin screws made of galvanized or stainless steel. They are inserted into two small holes at the bottom of the tank, put on rubber gaskets, then washers, and only then screw on the nuts.

Install the mounting screws on the tank

Before installing the tank on the toilet bowl, a gasket (included) is placed under the tank. To prevent odors from leaking out of the sewer, it must be “seated” with sealant. First we coat it on one side, place it on the toilet, coat it on the other, and place the tank.

Coat the gasket with silicone and place it on the toilet

Coat on the other side

We install the tank on the shelf of the bowl, passing the screws into the corresponding holes. We put washers and nuts on the screws from below and tighten them. At the same time, make sure that the tank is level.

Installing the tank on the bowl

Next, we install a float - a device for controlling the water level in the tank. There are two holes at the top of the tank. Here we insert the device into one of them. It is mounted on the side from which the water supply will be connected.

We put a float in the tank

We wrap a little flax around the outlet pipe, coat it with plumbing paste, and install an angle (brass or stainless steel). Do not overtighten the connection, do not hammer it in; the pipe is made of plastic.

Floor mounting

The toilet is almost assembled, it can be put back in place. The toilet is connected to the sewer using a corrugated adapter. At the ends it has rubber seals, which fit tightly into the pipes and onto the toilet outlet.

Corrugation for connecting the toilet to the sewer

If the sewer pipe is plastic, the corrugation is simply inserted until it stops. If the riser is cast iron, and not yet new, so that the smell does not seep through the microcracks, the pipe is cleaned to the metal, washed and dried. A layer of sealant is applied around the circumference of the dry, clean metal (a little more in the lower part), then the corrugation is inserted. To be more sure, you can also apply sealant to the outside of the joint.

To ensure that the installation of a toilet on old cast iron is airtight, a layer of sealant can be laid under the corrugation

In any case, we insert a corrugation into the sewer pipe.

Insert the corrugation until it stops

The second end of the corrugation is put on the toilet outlet. This is the connection of the toilet to the sewer. It's so simple. There is just one caveat. So that it can be removed later, the corrugation outlet and the toilet bowl outlet are lubricated with soap soaked in water, and only then the bell is put on. If this is not done, removing the toilet without damaging the corrugation will be problematic. But you still have to drill holes for fasteners. It will be much more convenient to remove rather than try to move a partially fixed device.

Having put the corrugation on the outlet, we position the toilet the way it will stand. Having installed the lid on the tank, we check that there is room for it. Next, you need to sit down, check the comfort of use, and adjust the position if necessary. Then take a pencil or marker, insert it into the holes in the sole, and mark the places for installing the fasteners.

Mark places for fasteners

After removing the toilet, drill holes for dowels in the marked places. If the kit comes with plastic fasteners, do not use them - they will break in a few days. It is necessary to immediately install powerful dowels.

If the toilet is installed on tiles, to prevent them from cracking, it is better to cover the glazed surface. Take a self-tapping screw, mark it, and hit it with a hammer several times. This is called “kerning”. Then take a drill or hammer drill and drill the tiles, turning off the impact mode. Once the tiles have been passed through, you can turn on the perforation mode.

Drilling holes for fasteners

We put plastic plugs from dowels into the holes. They must be in the same plane with the floor. If there is a thicker edge, cut it off with a sharp knife.

We sweep the floor, removing dust in the area where the toilet is installed. We put it in place, insert dowels into the holes, and tighten them using the appropriate key. The bolts must be tightened alternately, first on one side, then on the other. Tighten until the toilet is secure and free of play.

The final touch is connecting to the water supply. Connect output water pipe with a tap installed on it with an angle on the tank, which was connected earlier. For this you need a flexible hose. There are union nuts (American) at its ends, so there will be no problems with fastening. We tighten it well, but without fanaticism.

How to install a wall-hung toilet with installation

To install wall-hung toilets, the outlet of the sewer pipe must be located near the wall. The specific distance from the wall is indicated by the manufacturer, but should be small - about 13-15 cm from the far edge. If the exit is from the floor, there is a solution - a special lining, with the help of which the drain is moved closer to the wall.

Installation of a wall-hung toilet begins with attaching stops to the wall installation frame. They are attached in two at the top and bottom. With their help, the distance to the wall is adjusted, the frame is raised and launched.

Install the top stops

The upper stops have the form of rods and are adjusted using a socket wrench and a screwdriver. The lower stops are more like plates; they are also adjusted with a socket wrench but with the head positioned on the side.

Bottom stops and height adjustment

The assembled frame is placed against the wall, its center is positioned above the middle of the sewer outlet. The mark on the frame rises or falls to the height required by the manufacturer (there is a mark on the frame, also indicated in the passport, usually 1 meter).

Adjust in height and away from the wall

Using a bubble level, the horizontal and vertical installation of the installation for a wall-hung toilet is checked.

By adjusting the height of the stops, an equal distance from the wall, specified by the manufacturer, is set. How to conveniently do this, look at the photo.

The specified distance to the wall is set

The exposed frame must be fixed to the wall. Mark them in appropriate places with a pencil or marker and drill holes. Plastic dowel bodies are installed in them. Most of the wall-hung toilets are imported, and they recommend sealing the dowel bodies with sealant. IN drilled hole Some of the sealant is squeezed out and a dowel is inserted. Then, before installing the fastener itself, the sealant is applied to the plastic housing.

Connecting elements - pipes, couplings - can be installed in a fixed installation. They all come included and simply snap into place.

Installation of pipes and couplings

Installation of pipes from the tank and sewerage

Next, metal rods are installed on which the toilet bowl will be supported. They are screwed into the corresponding sockets, and silicone seals are put on top (in the bottom photo these are two rods above the sewer outlet).

Toilet holders are installed, the sewer pipe is fixed

The sewer pipe extends to the required distance and is fixed in the specified position using a bracket. It covers the pipe from above and is inserted into the groove until it clicks.

Next, water is connected to the tank. Open the tank lid (it has latches), remove the plug on the side surface. Right or left - depends on where your water supply is. A corrugated pipe is inserted into the opened hole, a mating part is inserted from the inside, everything is connected using a union nut. It is necessary to tighten without using excessive force - it is plastic.

Connecting the installation to the water supply

A tee is installed inside the tank, and a pipe (usually plastic) is connected to the desired outlet. This is done with the help of an adapter and an American one.

Connecting a water pipe

The hose from the tank is connected to the special inlet of the tee. It is flexible, in a metal braid. Tightened with a union nut.

Connect the hose from the tank

Replace the cover. In principle, the installation for the toilet is installed. Now we need to close it. To do this, make a false wall from moisture-resistant plasterboard. It is recommended to use two sheets, but one is also possible. Drywall is attached to the installation frame and to the mounted profiles.

Attaching the false wall to the installation frame is mandatory

The toilet is placed on pins, its outlet goes into a plastic socket. The connection is sealed, no additional measures are required. This completes the installation of the toilet.

Do-it-yourself toilet installation: floor-standing, wall-hung with installation, instructions with photos, videos

Installing a toilet yourself will save you a significant amount of money. With your own hands you can install both a floor model and a wall-mounted one, with installation.

DIY toilet installation

If this is your first time thinking about installing a toilet, this article is for you. Moreover, it’s better if you have time to read it before you go to the store for a new “faience friend” or before you start finishing in the toilet room.

The fact is that modern toilets are so different that they have very different types of fastening, flushing, sewerage, etc. So, ideally, you should start planning which toilet you will install with your own hands already at the toilet design stage.

DIY toilet installation

What to do if there is an old “throne” in the toilet - how to remove it without a global flood? We will also talk about this in the article. Features of the installation process, step by step guide and a few tips from the experts will help you save money and install the toilet yourself without any problems.

Planning the space in the toilet room

It is impossible to plan a comfortable toilet without taking into account the features of the toilet that will be installed there.

To understand what exactly needs to be done, you need to know:

• Is it necessary to dismantle a toilet that has served its purpose and carry out major repairs in the toilet (including cladding, repair and installation of sewer lines and floor screed);
• what are the dimensions of the new plumbing fixtures - will it not clutter up the space and will it allow your door to open quietly;
• what type of mounting does your future toilet have?
• what is the method of flushing the toilet;
• at what height do you want to install the plumbing?

If you know the answers to all these questions, all that remains is to dismantle the old one (if necessary) and install a new toilet.

Let us remind you that floor plumbing is divided into several types. It differs in shape and structure.

Down with the old toilet!

Surely your toilet that needs to be dismantled is not wall-mounted, which means it is attached to the floor. You can remove it from the toilet in just 7 steps.

1. Turn off the water and drain it from the tank in the toilet.

Before breaking the toilet, you must turn off the water supply and unscrew the tank

Removing an old toilet

If the neck is disconnected from the pipe, and the toilet is tightly glued to the floor with mortar, then you need to take a chisel and carefully break off the pedestal from the mortar, you can do it in parts

If there are no plans for the old toilet, and you are seeing it off on its last journey, then after rocking it, you can split it with a sledgehammer so that it is not difficult to take it out. You will have to do the same if the fastenings of old plumbing fixtures are cemented.

After dismantling the toilet, assess the condition of the pipes in the room. Cast iron creates many problems; before installing new plumbing, it is recommended to change them to plastic. Also plastic pipes They greatly facilitate the process of installing a toilet and routing sewer drains.

Self-installation of plumbing “step by step”

Toilet for normal operation You need a flat, tiled or specially prepared surface of the walls and floor.

1. First, we connect the toilet flush with a corrugated pipe to the outlet of the sewer riser pipe. You can also use a rigid pipe. The best option– if the toilet flush enters the riser without extension corrugations, etc. To seal the drain, we use a ring with a rubber border. It is important to take into account that rubber does not tolerate cement and similar coatings on its surface. But the sealant is quite suitable.

Toilet installation - cuff

We take the cuff and apply silicone sealant and install it in the pipe

Then we take the corrugated pipe and also apply silicone sealant

Installing the corrugation in the pipe

Then we carefully move the toilet and install its outlet into the seal of the corrugated pipe

To prevent water from getting under the toilet when washing the floors, this place can be sealed with silicone sealant

We fix it to the floor: 3 types of fasteners

1. First option for floor installation- These are anchors embedded in the screed. While pouring the floor, long anchors are secured at the place where the toilet and its mountings will be located. After the screed has dried and the floor has been finished, the toilet is attached to the anchors. This is the most the hard way fastenings, since it is difficult to install the anchors so evenly that the toilet sits on them without problems. It often happens that inexperienced builders choose anchors that are too short, and then they cannot screw the nuts onto them. The anchor embedded in the floor must be at least 7 cm above the finishing surface in order to screw the toilet to it. Spacers are required under all nuts to prevent the surface of the toilet from cracking.
2. The second option for securely fixing the toilet to a surface during a toilet overhaul is installation on a wooden base. The main thing is that the board strictly matches the size of the toilet base. When pouring the floor, the board is prepared by driving nails into it. Then it is placed in the solution with the nails down. After the screed has dried and the room has been finished, the toilet, previously placed on a layer of epoxy resin, is screwed to the board using ordinary screws. They also need rubber or polymer gaskets under them.

You can fix a toilet with a wall cistern without screws, just using resin. However, with this method of fastening, you must first clean the surface of the tile so that the glue sticks better. When using epoxy, it is important to allow the newly installed plumbing fixtures to dry thoroughly and adhere to the floor surface.

Mounting the toilet to the wall

How to install the installation

Wall-hung toilets are being used more and more often. Their installation is not much more complicated than usual (by the way, you can read about installing a toilet bowl with your own hands on our website). A wall-mounted toilet, as its name implies, will not have contact with the floor surface. It is suspended using a metal frame that is attached to the load-bearing wall. In this case, the toilet tank and pipes are located behind a false plasterboard wall. If the wall-hung plumbing fixture has an open tank, then you can fix it on the wall itself, but then the sewer pipe must be inside the wall. The structure will be held in place by the same anchors embedded in the wall or supporting frame.

Installing a toilet on a pedestal

After fixing the toilet bowl to the wall or floor, all that remains is to assemble the toilet. A tank is placed on the base, already securely fastened, or a pipe from a tank hung on the wall is connected to it.

Installing a toilet on a pedestal

All that remains is to check if the toilet works and if there are any leaks. Turn on the cold water, wait until the tank is filled, adjusting the filling level. We set up the locking mechanism according to the instructions. We wash it off and see if there is any leakage from the drain.

The last step is to screw the toilet seat. But here you can probably handle it yourself.

1. Before purchasing plumbing fixtures, first decide on the type of drain that suits you. If you do not plan to change the sewer riser supply, you need to choose the same type as in the used toilet. Remember: no adapters will help to properly connect a toilet with an unsuitable type of outlet.
2. Do not leave the choice and purchase of a toilet until the final stage of the renovation: it is better to prepare a place in the toilet in advance to facilitate the installation of plumbing.
3. Invest in nickel-plated bolts and anchors to secure the toilet to the floor or wall. They do not rust, which means that unsightly drips and sticking of bolts are excluded.

Do-it-yourself toilet installation was successful

Installing a toilet with your own hands - step-by-step instructions!

Find out how to install a toilet yourself. Step-by-step instructions, lessons, photos + videos and best tips from professionals!

If you have started a major renovation of your bathroom, or the plumbing has broken down, then you may need to replace the toilet. This process has a number of features that must be taken into account, and the approach to choosing a new toilet must also be correct.

Of course, you can call a plumber from the housing office, or contact private craftsmen who will provide professional installation. But installing a toilet yourself will not only save you money, but will also allow you to understand the whole process, which means choosing the most suitable installation option.

In this article, we'll walk you through everything you need to renovate your toilet to help you do the job yourself.

The first thing you need to decide is which toilet to choose.

Replacing a complete toilet is part of a comprehensive package, so it includes:

• selection of a new toilet, taking into account the mounting and drainage methods;
• dismantling the old toilet;
• renovation of the toilet room, including replacement of pipes, screeds, cladding and other things;
• installation and connection of a new toilet.

You should buy a new toilet in advance, and at the same time you need to consider some features that will help you make the right choice.

Floor-standing toilets are divided into several types according to their design. Their differences are based on the shape of the main nodes.

1. The shape of the outlet drain can be horizontal, vertical or oblique, at an angle of 45 degrees.
2. The toilet bowl can be visor-shaped, plate-shaped or funnel-shaped.
3. The models also differ in the type of cistern: it can be combined with the base of the toilet or installed on the wall, and at different heights.
4. The fixings of the toilet to the floor vary. This may be an option with two or four fastening points, or a design in which the toilet is installed on special corners attached to the floor.

Tip: choose a toilet based on the type of drain. If you are not going to change the sewer pipe, then take a model with the same type of drain as the old toilet. No adapters will provide a high-quality connection to a toilet with a vertical and direct outlet.

The method of connecting the tank will determine the types of further facing work in toilet room. For example, if you choose to mount it to a wall, you will need a prepared place and anchors for installation.

1. First of all, the water supply inside the drain tank is shut off, the water is drained from it and the underwater hose is unscrewed. After this, the fastenings of the tank are unscrewed. If they are rusty or covered with lime deposits, you need to hold the bolt head with a screwdriver and unscrew the nut with an adjustable wrench. Use kerosene or aerosol lubricant - these products significantly soften rust and lime deposits.
2. After the tank is removed, unscrew the fastenings that hold the toilet - dowels or nuts screwed onto the anchors.
3. Now you need to disconnect the drain from the sewer pipe. If your house is still an old building, then most likely the drain will be fixed. In this case, you will need a hammer and chisel. Position the chisel across the caulk and carefully prick the cement in two places. Rock the toilet with force so that the drain rotates and becomes loose. Tilt the toilet without disconnecting it to drain the remaining water.
4. After dismantling the toilet is completed, close the hole in the sewer pipe with a wooden plug or fabric stopper.

Dismantling the toilet does not require special care, because you are unlikely to reuse the product. Therefore, if the cement coating is too strong, you can beat off part of the toilet bowl with a sledgehammer to make the work easier, and then make a transverse hole in the pipe and insert a metal rod there as a lever to make it easier to loosen the drain.

Please note: if you have cast iron drain pipes in your apartment, it is better to immediately replace them with plastic ones. The operation of PVC pipes is much simpler, both for the initial wiring and when connecting all drain points.

DIY toilet installation process

After you have dismantled the old toilet or completed all the finishing work, prepare the surface, level it and begin installing the toilet installation.

1. Attach a rigid pipe or corrugated pipe to the toilet flush to connect to the sewer outlet pipe. The optimal option would be one in which the toilet flush goes directly into the pipe outlet. Use a rubber seal with a border. Do not seal the transition of the drain into the sewer inlet with cement.
2. Prepare water input. A flexible hose that is screwed onto the inlet of the tank and the water supply tap is well suited for this. Pay special attention to the diameter of the hose fasteners at both ends.
3. After the connection is made, you can fix the toilet to the wall or floor. Below we will look at this process in more detail.
4. Assemble the toilet. Place the tank on the pre-fixed base. If your tank is suspended, secure it to the wall and run a pipe. Now you can check whether the tank settings are correct and the toilet is operational. Turn on cold water and wait until the tank is filled. While the water is filling, you can adjust its level. You can learn more about this from the instructions for the tank.
5. The last stage is attaching the toilet seat. There are holes on the top of the toilet bowl for mounting it, and the necessary parts are supplied in the kit.

Now we will look in more detail at the methods of attaching the toilet, as well as the features of each of them.

How to install a toilet correctly, taking into account every little detail

There are usually three options for attaching the toilet to the floor:

• installation using anchors embedded in the screed or dowels;
• fixing the toilet with screws to a wooden base previously mounted in the screed;
• installation on epoxy resin.

If you decide to change the toilet due to a major overhaul, then suitable option will be anchored or prepared wooden base. In this case, the anchors for attaching the toilet are placed on the floor when forming the screed. They should be installed so that they protrude 5-6 cm above the surface. The excess can then be cut off.

Select taffeta (wooden board) to match the size of the toilet base. Drive nails in a checkerboard pattern over its entire surface so that they protrude from the other side. Now turn the taffeta over and install it where the toilet will be located. Fill the screed with concrete along the top edge of the board, install the toilet and secure it carefully with screws.

There are also certain rules for attaching a toilet to a tiled surface. Be sure to wear rubber gaskets under the nuts and on the dowels: they will prevent the toilet from cracking when tightened and will prevent rusty streaks on the ceramics. Use nickel-plated anchors and bolts; they can be easily unscrewed even after their service life has expired.

Advice: when installing the toilet on, to prevent damage to it appearance, use epoxy resin or dowels.

Under the dowels you will need to make holes through the screed and tile into which the screws will be screwed. The holes should not be too deep so as not to touch the waterproofing layer. If the screed is too thin, pour some sealant into the hole before installing the dowel. Be sure to put a rubber gasket on the screw. It would be best to place the toilet on a sealant pad and then press it down with screws.

What other options are there for installing a toilet?

When installing a toilet, you can completely do without such parts as anchors, dowels and screws. will come to your aid epoxy resin. The main thing is to prepare the base of the toilet and the floor surface according to all the rules. This option is optimal if the tank is mounted on a wall, since it represents half the weight of the complete structure.

1. First, take a walk sandpaper or an abrasive stone on the floor surface so that later the epoxy resin will set and stick well.
2. Apply adhesive to the floor and base of the toilet in an even layer of a few millimeters. Install the structure, level it and wait for the resin to dry completely.

Recently, wall-hung toilets have become popular. They are installed on the wall, without any contact with the floor. For installation, you will need to make a metal frame and attach it to the load-bearing wall, and attach the toilet directly to it if you plan to hide the pipes and tank behind a plasterboard wall.

You can also mount a wall-hung toilet with a cistern open type straight to the wall, but in this case you will need to move the sewer pipe into the thickness of the wall. The structure is secured by using anchors built into the frame or wall.

Video about installing toilets yourself

Having become familiar with the process self-installation toilet, you can easily determine how much money you were able to save without involving a plumber or a private craftsman. We are always happy to help you in any endeavor. In the comments you can leave your questions, comments and examples from your own experience. Comfort to your home!