Time to open the roses... Has it come? When to open roses in the spring - detailed instructions When to open roses in the year.

How to know when to open roses in the spring after winter shelters? If you once carefully read the information on this issue, then from now on the main points that you should pay attention to in this process will be remembered once and for all.

If you are late with the opening date of the bushes, they may prohibit it. Most often, bushes cannot be saved from such a situation and they die. Therefore, let's start our practical advice and sensible recommendations with exactly how to prevent roses from being banned.

Saving roses from excess moisture

It is young and not yet experienced flower growers who most often encounter the situation described below. It seems that the bushes were covered correctly in winter; everything was fine with them during the cold period. Even when the shelter was removed in the spring, the shoots looked healthy and green. But, after a while, the bushes began to turn black and die. What was wrong and at what stage could the fatal mistake for the roses be made?

Experienced gardeners say that it is extremely important in the spring: not earlier, but not later, to remove the cover from the bushes. This is a crucial period, which can begin at the very beginning of spring, or maybe, depending on the weather in a particular year, it can be postponed to other dates. Most often, the described option for the death of rose bushes occurs due to the fact that the flowers are blocked. That is, it was too late to remove the cover.

Important! To prevent this from happening, and to prevent even a few days of delay in removing the shelter from leading to disaster, you need to choose The right way covering flowers for the winter. Many people choose the air-dry method, which is considered the least dangerous.

In the video given in this material, you can understand exactly how to determine the timing of when to open after winter shelters. Detailed information on this issue will also be given in the second part of our material. In the meantime, let’s look at what must be done to ensure that your bushes are not banned.

What to do to save bushes:

• Rose bushes always react to warming. As soon as warm days arrive, the plant leaves the dormant period and begins to form buds. But, if the ground is still frozen and cold, then root system not working yet.
• Already in March, the sun often shines brightly and warmly, so that the tops of the roses’ shelter begin to become bare, and the snow also disappears from the ends. During this period, you should carefully monitor exposed areas and cover them additionally.
• Already at the end of March or the very beginning of April, the shelters can be removed completely. But it is important to make drainage grooves so that melt water did not stagnate in the root system.

When to remove cover

As already noted, the above problems simply will not arise if the shelter is removed in time in the spring. But how can you understand, especially without experience working with flowers, the timing that is most suitable for this? You can determine when to open roses in the spring after winter shelters in Ukraine or another country by looking at the bush itself.

Important! If you open roses too early, spring frosts will damage the buds that have time to form. Late opening of roses will cause the bushes to become blocked and, as a result, turn black and die.

The soil has begun to thaw - this is the first signal that should remind the gardener that the favorable time will soon come to remove the cover from the roses. When the weather becomes warm, but rare and not severe frosts still occur in winter, you can remove the insulation. But only if the grower has checked that by this time the soil has thawed to a depth of 20 cm.

You need to remove the cover from roses on a day when there is no sun (or in the evening): this will help avoid sunburn, which are dangerous for delicate bushes. It should also be noted that the cover from roses should be removed in several stages.

Stages of competent and gentle removal of cover from roses:

• Initially you need to open the ends of the bush.
• Next, you should open the northern and eastern sides (this can be done not in one day, but one after another).
• The third stage will be the complete removal of the cover.
• At the same time, it is recommended to additionally shade bushes that are already completely open for a while using paper and spruce branches.

Advice! When the rose bushes are already open, it is recommended to carry out cosmetic pruning. Dry twigs and parts that may have broken due to frost should be removed. Do the same with those leaves that could have remained on the bush since the fall.

About the treatment of spring roses

With the timing of when to open roses in the spring after winter shelters, everything is more or less clear. It often happens that the bushes are damaged after winter or the covering was done incorrectly. In such a situation, you need to understand: what exactly is the problem with the plant and how to solve it in order to save the bush? Pay attention to .

When the ground has completely thawed, it will need to be raked away from the bushes. This is done extremely carefully so as not to hurt the bark of the shoots, which is tender during this period. It is also necessary to free the neck where the graft was given from the ground. Wipe this area with a cloth and rinse with solution copper sulfate 1% (you can use a light solution of potassium permanganate).

Sometimes there may be frost holes on the shoots after winter. They appear due to the fact that water entering the cracks of the trunk freezes inside. Most often these cracks are located near the grafting site. For treatment, you can use, again, either a 1% solution of copper sulfate or a light solution of potassium permanganate. Apply the solutions with a brush to a clean, damaged area, and then cover with a medical plaster.

Important! If you do not treat the bush for this scourge, then soon the frost holes will become hotbeds for the proliferation of fungal infections. High humidity promotes the rapid spread of fungal spores.

If in winter the roses were covered too late, then in the spring, after the shoots open, cover them. Also, this problem often arises in a situation when a gardener decides not to treat the stems of a bush for the winter with a solution of iron sulfate or simply a soap solution with the addition of copper. You will need to carefully remove the mold with a damp cloth, and then treat all areas with the means described above.

As can be seen from this material, it is important not only to accurately meet the deadlines for opening roses in the spring after winter shelters. So that the bushes delight active and correct height, beautiful flowering, you need to deal with them constantly. It all starts with proper preparation bushes for the winter, their shelter in the fall, as well as timely and phased, correct removal of the shelter in the spring.

In its homeland the rose is evergreen shrub. The growing season of flowers does not stop, it is only suspended for a short period of time. In conditions middle zone the rest period extends for several months.

At good care bushes can grow for about 10 years. Roses bloom from the end of June until the first frost. The shelter protects the bushes from the cold and creates conditions for rapid growth in the spring.

Winter is a real test for roses; bushes are damaged not only from the cold, but also damp out. Some varieties of roses may die even when the temperature drops to -3 degrees. To prevent this from happening, the rose bushes are covered for the winter. Depends on proper shelter and timely removal of protection from plants. abundant flowering, growth and development of bushes.

In spring, flower growers are often late in removing protective covers. The dormant period for roses ends with the first warm days of spring. The buds swell, but the roots remain dormant.

When the shoots become dense, juicy, and the buds are saturated with moisture, you can begin removing the covers.

The cover is not removed immediately. The plants first get used to ventilation and only after 2 weeks the protective material is removed. This occurs from the beginning to the end of April (depending on the region and weather). In a warm, early spring, the shelter can be removed in late March - early April.

In the first weeks, the plants are covered with non-woven material and only in stable warm weather are the bushes completely freed and, if necessary, completely straightened.

When the soil melts to a depth of 20-30 centimeters, the protective cover can be removed.

Attention! It is prohibited to remove the shelter if there is snow!

Temperatures at night should not fall below -2 degrees. When removing the cover, the roses are first covered with film or spunbond.

Daytime temperatures should remain at least 10-15 degrees.

When the air warms up, the film is removed and the rose can grow without additional protection from the sun and cold.

In the Moscow region, overwintering of rose bushes is much worse than in warm regions. Due to the short summer, the bushes do not have time to fully prepare for the winter period.

The bark of the shoots is more watery and loose. Nutrients are often in short supply. Therefore, plants need good shelter.

In the Urals

Strong, powerful bushes withstand winter in the Urals best. Preparations for wintering begin in mid-August. Before the autumn shelter, the bushes are covered with a thick film for a month, this reduces the accumulation of moisture. Covering is done when the soil first freezes. For the winter, plants are covered with leaves, peat, spruce branches, and a film on top.

In the event of a warm spring and complete melting of the snow cover, the shelter is removed from the beginning to the end of April. To protect against frost, the bushes are covered with non-woven material. The material is removed in warm weather and returned again at night. Complete removal of protection occurs at the beginning of summer.

In Siberia

The best shelter for Siberian frosts is spruce branches or boxes. 2 layers of cardboard and roofing felt are laid out on top of the inverted box. When the air temperature drops below -8 degrees, the ventilated holes are covered with spruce branches or film.

The shelter can be removed in the third ten days of April. To protect against spring freezing, roses are covered with spunbond until the air and soil are completely warmed up.

Shelter needs to be taken care of from mid-August. Flowers are covered with turf soil from the garden, 1-3 buckets of soil are used for each plant (depending on the age and size of the bush). Before autumn shelter all young, immature shoots are pinched.
The rose is watered with a solution of double superphosphate (300 grams per bucket of water). Watering is done around the bush. On square meter It takes about a liter of solution. The red leaves then turn green. The plant is almost ready for winter.

A month before sheltering, you need to start picking leaves from the bushes, moving from bottom to top. When covering, there should be no foliage, flowers or buds left on the plant. At the end of autumn, the base of the bushes is sprinkled with sand. Treatment for various diseases is carried out. Ripened stems easily tolerate cold down to -8 degrees.

Before frost, the base of the bush is covered with a mixture of leaves and peat to a height of about 10 centimeters. The lashes bend down at 5 degrees of heat. After the first frost, roses can be covered with a protective cover.

When the temperature rises above 0 degrees and the snow is actively melting, it must be cleared from the shelters. Drainage grooves are created near the plantings to remove excess moisture. The spruce branches are removed. The ends of the shelters are opened slightly, the bushes are ventilated. Then the shelter is closed, leaving a hole on top for ventilation.

The area around the roses, covered with earth for the winter and covered with sawdust and spruce branches, is loosened. The edge of the insulation is raised to ventilate the plants.

Removal is done when the soil warms up in the evening, otherwise the young bark may get sunburned.

First, the ends of the shelter are opened. Every other day the eastern or northern side opens.

On the third day, the cover can be removed completely. Roses can be darkened with any non-woven material or spruce branches. The shelter remains for 2 weeks, until warm weather sets in.

Temperatures at night should not fall below five degrees.
Excess soil, sawdust, and peat need to be raked out from under the bushes and removed from the area. In case of severe swelling of the buds, spraying with protective drugs is carried out.

To protect plants from the cold, ground cover, climbing and standard types of roses are added and covered with additional layer snow.

Polyantha, hybrid tea, and floribunda roses are afraid of the cold and require dense covering with fluffy snow throughout the winter.

Since miniature, standard, climbing, Pernsian, groundcover rose species were covered with earth when covering and covered with leaves, sawdust, and spruce branches for the winter, they need to loosen the soil around the bush in the spring.

Then the shelter returns to its place, and along the edges there are gaps for the passage of air. When the soil warms up (after a week), the frame shelter opens on one side.

After a couple of days, the shelter is removed.

Hybrid tea varieties, after removing the cover, cover the frame with a film, this will protect the plant from the cold and accelerate the growth and flowering of the plant.

climbing roses They rise to the supports after warm weather sets in. When there is a sharp cold snap, the bushes are covered with spunbond.

What do roses cover?

Roses can be covered with spruce branches, fresh sawdust, pine needles, peat, dry leaves, boxes, film, cut large plastic bottles.

Cannot be used to cover roses: dense film, old hardwood sawdust, moss, straw, hay, manure. Increased dampness leads to root rot and death.

The covering layer must be thin, otherwise the bush will begin to rot. Such a shelter will allow the plant to breathe and protect it from cold and bright sun.

After the roses open, it is necessary to prune them. Cold-damaged and dry branches and leaves are removed. Pruning for each variety must be individual. After these procedures, the roses are sprayed with a solution of copper sulfate.

Heavily frozen areas located near the grafting site are removed.

Slightly damaged shoots are washed with a soft brush:

• potassium permanganate solution (1 gram per 4 liters of water),
• iodine (1 milliliter per 400 milliliters of water)
• solution of copper sulfate (10 grams per liter of water).

The cutting areas are treated with garden varnish.

If the root system is severely damaged, the plant is dug up and removed from the site.

Bushes are watered at the roots warm water. After 3-5 days, fertilizers are added to the soil and the bushes are hilled.

How to protect bushes from damping off

A bush with high air humidity and soil begins to rot (affected by rot) due to improper or untimely removal protective shelter. A propagated or frozen shoot leads to the death of the flower.

For prevention, protective measures are taken. The site of plant grafting is cleared from the soil layer. The area is cleaned and washed with a solution of fungicides or copper sulfate.

The sunken areas are removed, the shoots are washed with a solution of copper sulfate or fungicides.

Severely damaged roses should be watered with Kornerost or Kornevin, and sprayed with Epin. The bushes recede by early summer.

To prevent damping off, you need to use a thin, breathable covering material. A thin shelter protects from the cold, allows plants to breathe and does not accumulate excess moisture.

In the fall, the bush is treated with a copper-containing preparation or iron sulfate with an admixture of soap solution.

Roses after winter: video

Roses, regardless of species and varieties, are an ideal decoration for gardens. Proper implementation of covering measures and timely removal of cover from bushes allows you to get beautiful and lush flowers in the summer.

However, statistics show that the majority of those killed rose bushes It doesn’t freeze out, but rather weathers out. And to prevent this from happening, it is necessary to take care of the flower garden in March.

The main spring concerns in the rose garden consist of:

• opening of bushes;
• inspection;
• trimmings;
• spraying;
• fertilizing

To decide when to open roses after winter in the Moscow region or other regions, you need to clearly understand the processes that occur inside rose bushes.

Modern varieties of roses do not have a dormant period, which is the reason for such a long autumn flowering. But low temperatures artificially force the plant to “calm down”. However, modern winters, with temperature changes, sometimes allow rose bushes to “wake up,” which negatively affects their body.

The same thing happens with spring warmth. It is enough for the temperature on the thermometer to rise to zero, and the rose bush immediately reacts to this.

For a gardener, 0 ᵒС is a signal about the opening of the bushes. Remove the spruce branches, stir up the covering material, give the bushes a chance to breathe and get used to sun rays and gradually increasing temperature.

Removing covers

To decide when to open roses in the spring after winter shelters, you need to take a closer look at the shoots of rose bushes. When the juices move, the shoot becomes dense, juicy, and the pink buds are filled with moisture. This is the moment that cannot be missed.

Over the winter, the material used to hill up the bushes has been compacted, compacted, and now the time has come to stir it up. If the snow has already melted and the ground, having warmed up in the sun, becomes wet, then the time has come to remove the material for hilling. Do not delay this process; with a rapid increase in temperature, the lower buds may rot.

Rake sawdust, peat, soil, everything that covered the bushes from under the bushes. Do not leave it in the flower garden; sometimes it serves as an overwintering site for pests and pathogens, so it must be removed and placed in deep composting.

Inspection of rose bushes

If you are thinking about how to properly preserve roses in the spring, then you need to understand that a rose is a living material and death is a natural process. Experienced flower growers They believe that a waste of 15% is the norm. However, having only a few bushes, we try to protect each of them, and with proper care we succeed.

When examining, special attention should be paid to the lower buds, because they will give the very first and strongest growth, the strongest shoots and the most beautiful flower.

Growing roses, care in open ground seems difficult for beginners. However, by doing everything in a timely manner, regularly, consistently, you can ensure that the roses are healthy and lush.

When examining the shoots, pay attention to middle part. If in this place the buds are swollen and ready to “explode,” then it’s time to treat the overwintering stages of pests and diseases.

Pruning roses

Many flower growers carry out autumn pruning roses However, winter frosts damage a certain amount of the shoot, so it is repeated in the spring.

Pruning is carried out to the healthy tissue of those shoots that will serve as the skeleton of the bush. Broken, weak and thin shoots are cut out at the very base of the bush.

When pruning a shoot, you need to pay attention to the bud that is being manipulated. This bud should be directed not into the inside of the bush, but outward, which prevents the center from becoming overgrown.

When the bushes are pruned, the covering material is removed and the material used to cover the bushes can begin to be sprayed.

Spraying roses

It is better to treat rose bushes after waiting for several fine, sunny days. At this time, insects and pests, having warmed up in the sun, begin to emerge from their winter shelters, and here comes the moment when contact acaricidal preparations can deal with them quickly and efficiently.

Loosen the soil around the bushes, thus helping insects get out, and treat it with pesticides first. Next, loosen the soil again and process the entire rose bush, including the surrounding areas.

If there is more than one rose bush, then all roses must be treated at the same time, avoiding dry places.

Spraying is carried out in calm, clear weather, adhering to the rules for working with pesticides.

Preparations for spring treatment

When choosing preparations to spray roses in the spring after opening, you need to give preference to highly effective agrochemicals. In early spring, it is not yet possible to treat plants with biological protection agents, since they only work at temperatures above 12ᵒ C, and night frosts can completely inactivate them.
To carry out preventive spraying against pollen and leafhoppers, you can use a 0.2% solution of the drug “Aktara” during this period. Having dissolved 2g in one liter of water, such a solution is enough to treat 2 - 3 bushes, taking into account soil treatment.

It is necessary to spray against powdery mildew and gray rot. 6 g of the Horus preparation dissolved in 5 liters of water will cope with this task perfectly.

Experienced gardeners use copper-containing preparations, but the frequency of treatments increases significantly. The first treatment is as soon as the snow melts, and then every 10 days.

Spring feeding

Meltwater carried nutrients, especially nitrogen, from under the rose bushes. And for the start and enhanced growth, it is nitrogenous compounds that are needed, so our task is to restore the balance at the first opportunity nutrients around the root system of the rose bush.

If spring waters everything with rain, there is no need to dissolve fertilizers. Ammonium nitrate and ammonium sulfate can be scattered under the bushes at the rate of 30 g per m 2 of area. If the melt water has gone and no rain is expected, then there is a need to dissolve the same amount of fertilizer in a bucket of water and water the bushes.

In addition to nitrogenous fertilizing, caring for roses in the spring at the dacha also involves fertilizing with minerals that promote the formation of buds and lush flowering.

To ease the work of the gardener, the agrochemical industry produces a number of preparations with a balanced composition of potassium, phosphorus and microelements selected specifically for roses. Under the root you can add prepared solutions of the preparations “Fertimix biohumus”, “Agricola”, “ Blank sheet for roses." But “Terraflex - F” is suitable as foliar feeding.

Experienced rose growers in early spring renew the soil under the bushes. This is not difficult to do. Starting from the root collar, the soil is lightly raked off, and in its place fresh compost or well-rotted cow, pork, horse dung, mixed with garden soil.

Stove ash is also considered a good fertilizer, but its elements are poorly mobile, so feeding it with ash in early spring will only produce an effect by the next season. However, the annual addition of ash contributes to beautiful flowering rosary

Every year the same question, when to open roses? Have you already opened it? In what month did they start installing ventilation? Every year I forget when I did this before... So this post is a reminder. In 2016, I opened the first rose garden - a mixborder on March 27. A week before, I removed the first layer of agrotex. Maybe I'm wrong about this. It may happen that there will be a frost and everything will freeze, but this will also be an experience.

My first thought was, shouldn’t I become a lily grower? Such beauty! I hit a stick with a pruning shears in the fall and forgot about it until spring. Then I woke up, and here you are already beautiful and without thorns.

This doesn't work with roses. It turned out that I have a million fingers and they are all covered in thorns and splinters, and they all hurt like hell! In the fall, due to depression, I did not tear off the leaves. What was I hoping for? They didn’t crumble, nah... And they didn’t decay there on the branches. So every single one of them hung there, infected.

I tore it off, cleaned it, trimmed it.

I must say that this is the first mixed border rose garden that I planned taking into account the color, size, flowering time and shape of the flower. And this is the first flower garden that I don’t want to change yet.

I'll tell you more about it.
This flower garden is located in the western zone of the house, visible from our bedroom window.

My favorite color scheme

We dance from her.

The main rose of this rose garden is Shocking Blue. If you still don’t have this rose, urgently look for it and plant it. I have two of them. Despite the fact that she has zone 6, she winters better than all others every year.

Its color is stated as fuchsia-pink with a lilac reverse: due to the play of light and shadow on the wavy petals, the flower looks dark lilac or purple.
I agree with every word, I would add a shade of weathered beef, but I feel that you will not understand me... Flower size - 13 cm (minimum).

The beginning of flowering.

The bush is in the background on the left.

The bush does not fall apart, does not droop under the weight of flowers, I reached a height of 2.5 meters and I could not reach the tallest flower. Not sick.

If I haven't convinced you yet... The smell is incredible!

For me, its advantage also lies in the fact that the first wave of flowering begins simultaneously with the peonies.

The burgundy-crimson peony flower matches in shade and size. Located at the feet of the rose.

The main companion of this rose is Swan Lake. Both waves of flowering of these roses coincide exactly in time. The flower size is identical. The flower is densely double, white with pink breath in the center. The flowers are lightly scented.

In addition to roses, white clematis was planted on the arch in this group. Blue blue fescue and thyme. In the center of the flower garden itself are forest ferns. This year, Ascot will be added to complete the composition.

After the first wave of flowering in lilac tones, after the pink peonies fade, new colors and shades appear. Because at this time you already want brightness, violence and eye-catching color

Fairy Dance.

Declared as a ground cover, polyanthus rose. The flowers are dark pink or crimson, semi-double, appearing in large quantities, in brushes of 5-15 pcs.

For me it grows like a miniature climbing plant.

To support her, 3 white roses were planted, matching in nature and flowering time. Alba, Winchester Cassedral and Maria Bagnet. In addition, there is also double gypsophila, Grefsheim spirea and Macrophila spirea (due to the red-burgundy young growths). The tea hybrid Sophia Loren misses the color a bit, but stays there for now. Red Robusta was planted to support it. Simply because I love them dearly. Let some provocation remain.

What can I say about these roses?

Fairy at correct pruning and shape - an incredible rose, hard worker, neat and simply beautiful. Alba and Winchester Cassedral are first year roses that I have high hopes for.

Maria Bagnet disappointed me terribly.

This is my first white rose. I naively thought what to buy white rose as easy as pie. What's so complicated about it, really? It turned out that experienced rose growers spend half their lives finding the perfect white rose for a formal flower garden.

Maria Bagnet does not freeze, but when the flower opens, not a single drop should fall on the bud. Otherwise everything... Stains and rot.

When they fade, the petals dry out and stick to the stem like dirty rags. They hang there and spoil the bush. Several flowers bloom on a branch. There is no pronounced wave of flowering. Gives growth. Terribly prickly.

Why do you think I haven’t moved her out of the fence yet? Yes, because I spent 920 rubles on it. A toad is strangling me and I’ve been enduring it for 3 years now and crying.

I’ll write about Sophia Loren and Robusta separately another time. They are also planted in another rose garden and look more appropriate there.

Next, from left to right, white peonies were to be planted. All from different farms. 2 of them have not yet bloomed, one (Lenusichka, yours) bloomed pink, but it turned out to be completely out of place. To complement the shades of white and red, I added blue speedwells, blue myricaria and striped miscanthus in 3 colors.

To support the intended color, I needed a Kansas peony, which is the only peony in the world (according to the owner) declared red-crimson.

For the sake of the 3 buds of this peony, we, 3 half-graces (me, Lenka and miniature elderly woman 45 kg Tetlyud) risked life and health.

Namely, how it all happened...

The peony was ordered from a catalog, waited, suffered and received by mail, planted on best place in the garden of a miniature woman who is a chicken breeder and part-time gardener, Tetlyud. But some men, her sons, unloaded construction materials and concrete curbs onto the site.

At the gardening council, three of us women decided to move and remove the concrete curbs, dig up the peony and divide it among three, that is, among all participants in the events fairly. It was decided not to involve men, for their barbarity and clumsiness.

During a special operation, with the help of a crowbar and some other iron thing, a miniature woman weighing 45 kg was dropped and almost fell asleep concrete blocks. But everything ended well. The peony was dug up without damage and divided among everyone. So the first flowering is expected this year.

During this winter, every single rose planted in this mixborder overwintered along the entire length of the shoots, except for Swan Lake, which froze a little at the ends. So, flowering is expected entirely as originally intended.

PS. I forgot, there is still a vertical green barberry growing there right in the center of the flowerbed. I also can’t remember its initial goals and objectives yet...

Last year, my roses were green and looked completely healthy immediately after removing the coverings. Suddenly, dark spots appeared on some shoots that grew right before our eyes. Eventually these branches died. What to do to prevent this from happening again?

N. Panich, Luga

It looks like you are dealing with infectious blight, a disease that can cause serious damage to roses. Therefore, immediately after removing the covers, inspect all the shoots, paying special attention to the places where the leaf is attached to the branch. It is there that the first signs of the disease appear - dark spots, which later acquire a reddish-burgundy hue and grow rapidly. “Ringed” branches die. An infectious burn differs from other fungal diseases in the absence of a clearly defined boundary between living and dead tissue.

Having discovered a stain, you must immediately cut the stem below the lesion, capturing healthy tissue. If the outbreak is small, then you can cut out only the affected part and treat this area with a systemic fungicide that penetrates the plant tissue, or with a contact-systemic action preparation (contact, i.e., fungicides acting only on the surface are ineffective).

If the lesions are widespread, it is necessary to spray all roses with a systemic preparation. Treatment will help protect them from other diseases.

* Chemical fungicides.

Contact: Bordeaux mixture, Abiga-Pik, Thiovit jet.

System: Topaz, Skor, Rayok, Previkur Energy.

Contact-system action: Oksikhom, Ordan, Profit gold, Ridomil gold.

Infectious burn. Photo: AiF/ Elena Kozhina

No rush

When is the best time to remove coverings from roses? Some advise doing this immediately after the snow melts, others advise waiting for real warmth. Who is right?

O. Barmina, Murom

IN general case When it comes to opening roses, it makes sense to follow the rule: it is better to overexpose than underexpose. Excessive haste can lead to drying out of the aboveground part of the bushes, since the root system is not yet working. As a result, the “tops” often die.

A “signal” for action can be the moment when the soil has not only thawed, but has already dried out a little and has become loose. The night temperature should stably exceed 0 °C. I usually open roses during the May holidays.

It is better to remove shelters in cloudy weather. Unfortunately, summer residents who come to the garden only for the weekend are not always able to wait for this. In this case, try to avoid bright sun. You can remove the cover in the late afternoon, when it gets cooler, and leave the roses uncovered overnight.

By the way, even before removing the covers, some gardeners first open them slightly and ventilate the roses. I don’t do this because I use non-woven material with a density of 60 g/m² (in 2 layers) - it “breathes”. But if you use film for shelter, it makes sense.