How to attach polycarbonate to a greenhouse correctly: basic rules. How to attach polycarbonate - basic tips

Having chosen this material, you should choose the right product that best suits the required conditions. For any design, there are parameters that determine the choice - this is temperature environment(not subject to influence); indoor temperature (set by standards), design loads on the structure (depending on the region) and your taste. However, not the least important place in the selection parameters is played by quality of material. After all, only serious factories produce high-quality material, with a 10-year guarantee and a service life of 25-30 years.

These recommendations for installation, transportation and storage are based on many years of experience at manufacturing plants ( Polygal And Carboglass) cellular polycarbonate and will give you the opportunity correct application material.

For safe operation when installing slabs, you should:

• Follow safety rules when working at height.
• Beware of slippery surfaces.
• Beware of losing your balance in windy weather.

Installation of polycarbonate slabs in flat, pitched and vertical structures(single slope, gable roofs, pyramid structures)

When designing load-bearing structure it is necessary to take into account that the slabs must be mounted in such a way that the polycarbonate stiffeners are positioned strictly from top to bottom to allow condensate to escape.

At the same time, for panels installed in a flat horizontal position, an inclination angle of at least 5˚ is required.

The calculation was made for a wind and snow load of 180 kg/m2.

Slab thickness (mm)	Cell size of supporting structure (cm)
4 mm	50 x 50 cm
6 mm	75 x 75 cm
8 mm	95 x 95 cm
10 mm	105 x 105 cm
16 mm	100 x 200 cm

For correct production load-bearing structure and avoiding large waste, it is recommended to clarify the dimensions of polycarbonate plates and installation method with specialists. Also, before installing polycarbonate, it is necessary to complete all welding and painting work on the structure.

Components used for installation of polycarbonate plates

End tapes (top sealing, bottom perforated)

End profile UP

Connecting profile (one-piece HP, detachable HCP, aluminum clamping strip)

Ridge profile RP (depending on design)

Angular profile (depending on design)

Wall profile FP (depending on design)

Self-tapping screws with sealing rubber washers (with a drill for metal structures, without drill for wooden frames)

1. Polycarbonate sheets have protective packaging film on both sides. Under the film with factory markings is the front side, which has a UV protective layer that protects the polycarbonate from exposure to hard UV radiation. back side has a transparent or plain film. Important! The polycarbonate is installed with the front side (UV protective layer) facing the sun outward. Otherwise, the service life of the panel will be shortened. ( The manufacturer's warranty does not apply to panels installed in violation of the instructions).

2. For storage and transportation, the ends of the polycarbonate panels are protected with temporary tape. During installation, the temporary tape should be removed and installed: a sealing tape - along the upper edge (to protect the upper ends), and a perforated tape - along the bottom (to allow condensation to escape from the cells and protect the sheets from dust). All open channels of the panels must be taped with end tape.

3. The tapes must be closed with end profiles (if the edge of the panel does not go into grooves or other profiles). In profiles that are attached to the bottom edge of the panel, it is necessary to brighten drainage holes with a diameter of 2-3 mm in increments of 300 mm. During installation, it is necessary that the short flange of the end profile is on the outside. For strength, the end profile is attached to small screws or drops of transparent silicone sealant.

4. Immediately before installation, the packaging film must be partially removed from the sheets, but so as not to mix up the sides. Please note that premature removal of the protective film may damage the panel. Immediately after installation, all packaging film is completely removed!

To connect polycarbonate panels, they are used different kinds profiles that are selected depending on the supporting structure.

One-piece polycarbonate connection profile HP:

Designed for connecting sheets together. The profile is attached directly to the structure through a self-tapping screw, the edges of the panel on both sides are inserted into the profile, and the panels are attached to the structure along the lathing using self-tapping screws with sealing rubber washers. Suitable for vertical, horizontal and pitched structures.

One-piece connection profile HP

It should be remembered that HP type profiles (4 and 6 mm) do not provide reliable sealing of the joint.

Wall polycarbonateF-profile

Designed both for sealing panels and for attaching the edges of panels to the base of the wall. Attached using self-tapping screws.

Wall profile FP

Corner polycarbonate profile

Designed for connecting panels in the corners of structures.

Corner profile

Ridge polycarbonate profile

Designed for connecting polycarbonate panels in a ridge up to 120˚ (in gable structures, in pyramid structures).

Ridge profile

Detachable polycarbonate connection profile

Includes

1) a base on which the ends of the joined sheets are placed along their length; it is attached to the sheathing through the center using self-tapping screws.

2) a lid that is attached to the bottom by hand pressure or using a mallet with a rubber tip.

This profile is convenient for connecting long sheets on a roof slope or in arched structures.

Detachable connection profile

HCP type profiles (8, 10 and 16 mm) provide both reliable sealing of the joint and high panel clamping force, allowing you to do without additional fastening elements. In this case, the width of the mounted panel should not exceed 800-900 mm (8 and 10 mm panels) and 1200-1400 mm for 16 mm panels.

If you cannot avoid installing panels with an overlap, the recommended amount of overlap for the transverse (on the short side of the panel) joint should be 100-140 mm, and for the longitudinal joint - 70-80 mm.

When using their own or custom-made profiles, the customer should take into account the required clamping width of the panel edges in the profile wings - a minimum of 12.7 mm for panels 6-10 mm and a minimum of 19 mm for panels 16-25 mm plus a margin for thermal expansion. (For example, for a transparent panel 6 mm thick with a width of 1 m, a clamp equal to 12.7 + 2.5 = 15.2 mm will be required. For a bronze panel 16 mm with a panel width of 1600 mm, a clamp equal to 19 + (4.4 x 1 ,6)=26 mm.) In regions with high design wind and/or snow loads, the given minimum values ​​should be increased by one and a half times. When installing panels indoors (in the absence of high loads), it is possible to reduce the indicated values ​​by 3 times, but in any case, the size of the groove cannot be less than 5 mm.

Interpanel connection

1. Fastening of polycarbonate sheets is carried out using self-tapping screws with rubber sealing washers, along the entire sheathing, in increments of 400-600 mm.

2. For each self-tapping screw, it is necessary to pre-drill a hole, the center of the axis of which should be located no closer than 36 mm from the edge of the panel. The diameter of the hole should be 2 mm larger than the diameter of the screw to allow thermal expansion and contraction of the material. This coefficient for transparent panels is 2.5 mm/m, for colored panels – 4.5 mm/m.

3. When fastening self-tapping screws, avoid excessive tightening, which can lead to deformation of the sheet surface. It is important to tighten the bolts perpendicular to the surface to avoid damage.

5. It should be remembered that it is allowed to overhang the edge of the panel beyond the supporting structure by no more than 10 cm, but not less than 3 cm.

Attention! Do not leave panels unattended on the roof or installation site unless they are properly secured and all mounting bolts are in place. During installation, ensure that the panels are protected from sudden gusts of wind.

Installation of polycarbonate slabs in arched structures(tunnels, alleys, vaults, domes)

Polycarbonate panels are installed with cellular channels only towards the arched surface.

Incorrect material positioning

The correct location is in the direction of the arch

Polycarbonate sheets can be bent into an arch to the minimum permissible radius without mechanical damage to the surface. Moreover, the internal pressure that occurs during compression gives the structure additional strength and rigidity. The smaller the compression radius (up to the minimum permissible), the higher the rigidity of the structure.

Important! Compression and twisting of the panel exceeding the minimum permissible radius leads to high blood pressure and surface deformation, as a result, bursting or breaking of the sheet. Panels installed in violation of the minimum bending radius are not covered by the factory warranty!

Minimumacceptableradiusbendingsheets (R)

Recommended aspect ratio of the supporting structure cellin the manufacture of arched roofing

For installation in arched structures, panels are prepared in the same way as for pitched structures. Important! For an arched installation, when both ends of the panel with open channels are located at the bottom, only perforated tape is used. The panels are connected using connecting profiles and roofing screws with sealing washers (see Fig. Preparing panels for installation, Methods for connecting and fastening panels, Interpanel connection). Please note that it is difficult to connect panels with a one-piece connecting profile, so it is recommended to use a detachable connecting profile. If the use of a one-piece connecting profile is necessary, then the profile must be greater than the thickness of the polycarbonate (for example, when connecting polycarbonate sheets 4 mm thick, you need to use an HP profile for 6 mm, etc.).

Transportation of polycarbonate panels

The panels are transported in a truck that has a body of suitable dimensions with a flat floor without protruding bumps. For panels with a thickness of 4-8 mm, protrusion beyond the dimensions of the body is not allowed; panels with a thickness of 10-16 mm can protrude beyond the body by no more than 0.8-1 m. Panels should only be transported in a horizontal position; they can be folded one on top of the other , larger thicknesses at the bottom, smaller thicknesses at the top, avoiding surfaces that sag without support.

In case of emergency, it is possible to transport the panels rolled up in a closed vehicle, but it is necessary that the internal width and height of the body correspond to the minimum permissible bending radius of the panel. For short-distance transportation, it is permissible for the internal width of the body to be 10% less than permitted. (The POLYGLAS SPb company does not recommend such transportation and does not take responsibility for possible damage to panels transported in this way.)

Polycarbonate storage

Polycarbonate panels should be stored without disturbing the original packaging. The panels should be reloaded or moved carefully so as not to break the packaging film or damage the panel itself.

Polycarbonate panels are stored horizontally on flat surface(pallets, cardboard, etc.). Storing slabs on the ground is not permitted.

It is necessary to store polycarbonate indoors, avoiding overheating of the panels in the sun.

Do not leave panels with open ends on long time, because the channels can become clogged with dust and insects can get into them.

Cutting polycarbonate

Cutting of cellular polycarbonate is done using a circular saw (“parquet”, “grinder”, jigsaw) or other suitable cutting equipment, including hand-held equipment, which should have a small, straight tooth at an angle of inclination close to 30°. Sawdust that is formed during cutting with a saw should be thoroughly cleaned with a jet of air under pressure or any other available method. During cutting, the polycarbonate should be pressed firmly against the table surface to prevent vibration or movement. If you need to cut slabs of small thickness (4-6 mm), you can use a wide knife or metal scissors.

Washing polycarbonate boards

Polycarbonate can be washed with a soft sponge/rag/brush and warm soapy water. You can use any soap (including laundry soap), dishwashing detergents and window cleaners containing alcohol (but not containing acetone or ammonia); be sure to rinse off the soap so that no stains or streaks remain.

Do not use scrapers, knives or other sharp objects.

Do not use products containing acetone, ammonia, or ethers.

2017-03-17T10:39:40+03:00

As I promised in the previous article, in which we talked about, in this article we will talk about its installation.

Installation of profiled polycarbonate has its own subtleties that you need to know in order to avoid many problems in the future and maximize the service life of the coating.

I hope that you have read the previous article and more or less know about the properties, characteristics and advantages of this type of polycarbonate. The knowledge you acquire will help you more thoroughly understand the issue of installing profiled polycarbonate.

It is very similar to metal corrugated sheeting, although it has some differences - composition, transparency, dimensions, etc. Having almost the same shape, it is actually mounted in the same way.

But, as you understand, “polycarbonate corrugated sheeting” still has its own properties and characteristics, and therefore its own subtleties during installation.

Let's look at what these subtleties are and how to properly install profiled polycarbonate.

Features of installation of profiled polycarbonate

To make it easier for you to assimilate the information, I have broken everything down point by point.

And so, let's go in order.

1. The frame, which will serve as the basis for laying the panels, should be painted in light colors to avoid excessive overheating of the places where the frame comes into contact with the panels. It is worth adding that it is better to paint with hammer paints, since their service life is much longer than oil, enamels and nitro enamels.
2. Panels and components that have significant damage received during transportation and handling are not suitable for installation. Their use will significantly reduce the service life of the product.
3. The panels should be installed at positive temperatures, that is, above 0°C, this will greatly simplify the installation of profiled polycarbonate and reduce the likelihood of damage.
4. The slabs should only be laid with UV protection facing the sun. UV side coated plastic film with markings on it.
5. The panels are laid from bottom to top, as when laying regular slate.
6. The slabs that are used for canopies are attached along the crests of the waves, and those used for fences are attached along the troughs.
7. The edges, as well as the joints of the panels, must be secured to the base on each wave. Fastening in the middle part of the panels is done through 2-3 waves.
8. The edge of the slab should not protrude less than 50 mm from the fastening point, but also not exceed 200 mm.
9. When installing profiled polycarbonate, you must always remember the thermal expansion of this material, so you should make the necessary gaps at the joints and fasteners. You should also know that the holes for the screws should be 2-3 mm larger than the screw leg, this will allow the polycarbonate panels to expand or contract freely.
10. Do not overtighten the screws during installation. Remember that the panels should move without much effort due to thermal expansion. The screw must be turned perpendicular to the surface of the sheets.
11. The sheets are laid longitudinally overlapping every 2 waves. It is possible in one wave, but then it is necessary to lay sealing tape in places where there is overlap. The transverse overlap should not be less than 200 mm and must fall on the sheathing beam.
12. When installing profiled polycarbonate, you must not move directly on the surface of the sheets; use wide boards at least 250 mm wide and at least 25 mm thick wrapped with non-slip fabric for moving.
13. The slope of any polycarbonate canopy should not be less than 15%.
14. Manufacturers recommend not using sheets longer than 7 meters, but I can tell you that already with sheets 6 meters long you will have to suffer quite a bit.
15. The minimum radius of curvature for profiled polycarbonate 0.8 mm must be at least 4 m. For panels of greater thickness, the radius must be larger.
16. The sheets are laid against the main direction of winds, as well as snow and rain.

When installing profiled polycarbonate, use those elements of connections, connections and fasteners recommended by the manufacturer.

To all of the above, it is worth adding two more points - cutting and drilling profiled polycarbonate.

Cutting profiled polycarbonate

When cutting any type of polycarbonate, it is best to use hand saws, jigsaws or grinders. When using saws and jigsaws, it is necessary to use saws with fine teeth, which are mainly used for cutting metal. You should not use knives when carving panels, as even experienced craftsmen make mistakes, knife carving is very unpredictable.

Drilling profiled polycarbonate

The holes are drilled with a regular metal drill 2-3, and in some cases 4 mm larger than the screw leg, to take into account thermal expansion. Drilling should be done at low speeds with minimal pressure to avoid torn holes. You should not make holes closer than 40 - 45 mm from the edge of the panels.

It must be remembered that before any processing of the material it is necessary to secure it well on a flat surface. These precautions will save you a lot of hassle.

Lathing for profiled polycarbonate

Well, in conclusion, let’s touch on an important topic - this is the sheathing for profiled polycarbonate.

For flat polycarbonate sheets, it is very important that the sheathing takes into account the horizontal and vertical. For profiled this condition not necessary, since the stiffeners allow them to withstand lateral loads without taking into account their support.

For example, for a cell phone with a snow load of 100 kg/sq.m, the sheathing cell should be no more than 900x900 mm, or a multiple of these parameters, while for profiled polycarbonate only the step size in the direction of the water slope is taken into account, that is, along the stiffeners the most profiled polycarbonate.

Thus, the sheathing itself has a somewhat simplified appearance. This allows the customer to save a little on the design.

But still, both for cellular and for the installation of profiled polycarbonate, there are limiting lathing parameters for different snow loads, as well as for a certain thickness of the material. These parameters are presented in the table below.

Table of lathing parameters for profiled polycarbonate.

And so, today we figured out what the installation of profiled polycarbonate is, looked at its main stages, got acquainted with the lathing for profiled polycarbonate, and also learned how to drill and cut this material.

I really hope that this article helped you in resolving issues related to the installation of profiled polycarbonate. Well, if you still have questions on this topic, write in the comments and we will definitely sort them out.

Good luck. Don't forget to subscribe to site updates and leave your like on social media. networks.

Cellular polycarbonate is modern material, which is widely used for cladding greenhouses. It allows you to quickly and inexpensively obtain reliable translucent walls.

In this article we will tell you how to properly attach polycarbonate to a greenhouse.

Advantages of polycarbonate

Like any material, polycarbonate has both its pros and cons.

• Its main advantages include:
• Flexibility and impact resistance - it is about 20 times better than glass.
• This material does not promote combustion and has good thermal insulation due to closed air cells.
• The optimum ratio of price and quality. The average price for a 4 mm sheet 210*6000 cm is 1500-1800 rubles.
• He is not afraid of moisture, high and low temperatures, sudden changes in humidity.
• This material is lightweight, so you will not have any problems securing a polycarbonate greenhouse to the ground. The very thing is enough simple foundation or wooden frame, nailed to the ground with long reinforcement.

The main disadvantage of this material is:

• Low abrasive resistance, easy to scratch.
• It is also destroyed by ultraviolet rays, so to avoid this, manufacturers protect it with a special film.
• During installation, it is necessary to take into account the presence of a thermal gap so that during temperature changes, the casing can freely expand and contract.

Layout of sheets

The stiffening ribs in cellular polycarbonate are located along the length of the sheet, so when fastening they must be positioned so that the channels have an exit to the outside. This is necessary to drain the condensate that forms inside. That is, on vertical walls the stiffeners should be vertical, on arches along the bend of the arc.

Modern polycarbonate is made with a special protective film, which usually contains the manufacturer’s markings and logos. The layer with such a film must be laid outwards. It is better to remove it after fixing the polycarbonate to the greenhouse.

Also, when installing on arched structures, the maximum permissible sheet bending values ​​​​set by the manufacturer must not be exceeded.

cutting

The process of cutting sheets is one of the main ones, because this material is usually supplied in the form of long sheets. Their standard size: width 210 cm, length 6 or 12 m.

The cutting process itself is very simple; for this you can use a regular hacksaw or power tool: jigsaw, circular saw. The protective film will protect the surface from scratches during cutting.

After cutting the desired sheet, you should carefully remove all the chips from the internal cavities; it is best to use a vacuum cleaner for this. This is necessary to prevent condensation from accumulating inside.

Drilling holes

Suitable for drilling regular drills, but holes must be made between the stiffeners, as well as at least 4 cm from the edge of the panel. The size of the holes should be 1-2 mm larger than the diameter of the screws to create a temperature gap.

Note!
When installing long sheets exceeding 6 meters, you need to extend the size of the holes along the length so that they are oval.

The drilling angle must be perpendicular, otherwise it will not be possible to fix the screw and washer exactly. In this case, the tightness will be broken, the mounting location will be unreliable, and the thermal insulation will deteriorate.

Fastening panels

Attaching polycarbonate to a metal greenhouse frame can be done in two ways:

• Using a self-tapping screw with a washer and a sealing gasket.
• Using a thermal washer.

Externally, the thermal washer looks like a mushroom cap and consists of two parts: a sealing part and an upper plastic part. In the center it has a through hole for the screw head. In addition, the plastic leg, which is selected according to the thickness of the coating, prevents the bolt from being over-tightened.

After attaching the self-tapping screw, a special cap is put on it to hide it. Thus, the self-tapping screw is protected from exposure external environment and the bridge of cold is removed. You can see its structure in the photo:

How to fix polycarbonate on a wooden greenhouse? This is done in exactly the same way, the difference with a metal frame is only in the screws used. In this case, it is better to use ordinary roofing washers for this, since they are cheaper than thermal washers.

For metal, self-tapping screws with a drill tip are usually used, and for wood, with a sharp end. They should be 4.2mm in diameter with a press washer. For fastening to wood, a screw length of 25 mm will be sufficient, and for flat metal profiles– 13 mm. The fastening should be every 30-40 cm.

Note!
When screwing self-tapping screws, do not firmly fasten them, overtighten them, or use nails, rivets, or inappropriate washers for fastening.

Cell sealing

Before attaching polycarbonate to the greenhouse frame, you need to carefully seal its ends. The upper end must be sealed with regular self-adhesive tape. You need to stick a tape on the bottom and make holes in it for condensation to escape.

Joining panels

To properly connect polycarbonate to each other, you need to use special component profiles.

• A simple connecting profile for connecting two panels. In this case, the profile itself is not attached to the sheathing.
• The composite connecting profile allows you to connect 2 panels and attach them to the sheathing.
• The end profile is needed to seal the end part of the panels.
• The wall profile allows you to seal the ends and secure the edge of the panel to the wall.
• Corner profile – for mounting perpendicular corners.
• Ridge profile - to create a joint on gable roofs different angles.

Instructions for attaching polycarbonate to the greenhouse are shown in the video in this article:

• Between the polycarbonate sheet and the metal you need to make a heat-insulating tape.
• For attaching to. First, its lower part, the so-called base, is screwed to the frame, and then the panel is inserted into it. Before this, you need to remove the bottom protective film and bend the layer of the top film by 10 cm so that it does not interfere with installation.
• If the fastening occurs at the edge, then from its extreme part close to the composite profile you need to install an end or wall profile.
• Then you need to secure the upper part of the composite profile by simply snapping it into the base. A temperature gap of 3 mm must be left between the profile and the panel.
• For wall mounting, a wall profile is used. It is put on the end of the panel, and its second part is attached to the wall with sealant.
• Immediately after completing the installation completely, otherwise it will stick to it even more strongly.
  
• When installing arched surfaces, the length of the profile should be longer than the panels, since their sizes may differ. The excess is cut off after installation.

Conclusion

Availability large quantity components for polycarbonate will allow you to do the installation yourself without difficulty. (see also article) All joints will be neat and airtight.

Are you going to build your first greenhouse from cellular polycarbonate and have never dealt with this material before? Don’t want to make any unobvious mistakes when attaching the sheathing? Then this article is for you - here you will find detailed instructions on how to install polycarbonate on a metal frame. This material will also be useful for those who want to clarify some of the nuances and deepen their knowledge on this topic.

Cellular polycarbonate - what is it?

Let's start with the basics. Cellular polycarbonate is sheets of transparent polymer, between which there is one or more rows of rectangular or triangular cells. This material is widely used in the creation of outbuildings in country houses and in private households.

Cellular polycarbonate has the following advantages:

• ease;
• high impact strength;
• flexibility;
• resistance to many chemically active substances;
• high light transmittance.

At the same time, the material has one feature that must always be taken into account - a high coefficient of linear expansion. This means that with warming, cellular polycarbonate will expand in length and width by several millimeters.

At first glance, these are very insignificant numbers, but if installed incorrectly, even such an increase linear dimensions may cause warping, swelling and cracking.

Properties of cellular polycarbonate

Therefore, it is very important to know all the subtleties, features and nuances of installing cellular polycarbonate on a metal frame. There are two main ways to do this - with point fasteners or using a connecting profile.

Scheme point mounting polycarbonate to metal frame

Point connection - fastener

The most popular method of installing polycarbonate on a metal frame is a point connection. It is carried out using self-tapping screws, screwed along the vertical and horizontal elements of the frame.

At the same time, “bare” self-tapping screws are used for the installation of polycarbonate to a limited extent (only in rooms with a more or less constant temperature). And for the point connection of SPK sheets with a metal frame in greenhouses, canopies and canopies, the following types of fasteners are used.

It is important to note that, regardless of the presence of a thermal washer and its type, the self-tapping screw must be designed for working on metal and have an appropriate thread with a small pitch. Only such products will firmly cut into profile pipe or another type of metal frame and be well fixed in it.

The difference between self-tapping screws for wood and metal

Advice! To facilitate the process of installing cellular polycarbonate on the frame, use metal screws with a drill at the end. With it, the screw will go in faster and with less effort.

Drill at the end of the self-tapping screw

Now let’s study each of the fasteners presented in the table above in more detail and separately.

Roofing screw with washerEPDM- the simplest and cheap way connect the polycarbonate sheet and metal frame. Due to the specific nature of the application, it is often exposed to moisture, which is why it has a high-quality anti-corrosion coating. Hex head.

The roofing screw is supplied with an EPDM washer - a gasket made of atmospheric rubber with a metal cover. This washer is used to seal the hole where the self-tapping screw enters and to distribute the load.

Due to the relatively small diameter and thickness of the gasket, when screwed into cellular polycarbonate roofing screws very often overtightened. As a result, a dent forms at the fastening site, the seal of the hole is broken, and condensation, dirt and microorganisms get inside the cells.

Roofing screws with EPDM washer

When installing using roofing screws, pre-drill holes in cellular polycarbonate and metal frame optional, but desirable. To lay sheets of colored SPC, you can use screws with a painted head.

Self-tapping screw with rubber thermal washer– the first specialized fastener for cellular polycarbonate. It is the same roofing screw, but supplemented not with a thin and small gasket, but with a large and thick thermal washer made of silicone or atmospheric rubber.

When screwed into a sheet of SPK, the thermal washer is flattened and evenly distributes the load around the hole for the fastener. As a result, the risk of overtightening the screw and leaving a dent is greatly reduced.

Self-tapping screws with rubber thermal washer

– further development of the idea of ​​fasteners specialized for working with cellular polycarbonate. The thermal washer itself is a hat with a cylindrical leg.

The latter enters a hole pre-drilled in cellular polycarbonate and is adjacent to the surface of the frame. A self-tapping screw is inserted into the leg and wrapped in metal, while the head of the thermal washer presses the SPK sheet to the frame at the fastening point.

The length of the leg should be equal to the thickness of the cellular polycarbonate. To ensure the tightness of the connection, an O-ring is placed under the thermal washer, and the self-tapping screw is closed with a protective cap on top.

Metal self-tapping screw and thermal washer with leg

Thanks to this design, the fastener does not cut directly into the material, and if the installation technology is followed, it is almost impossible to overtighten the screw and leave a dent. The diameter of the hole in the SPK sheet should be 2-3 mm larger than the outer diameter of the thermal washer leg, so that during thermal expansion of the material the fastening point does not deform. A high-quality thermal washer is made of polycarbonate so that its coefficient of linear expansion matches that of the lining of a greenhouse or canopy.

Important! When purchasing thermal washers, be sure to pay attention to the length of the leg and the color of the cap, which should match the thickness of the polycarbonate sheet you are using and its color.

Thermal washer yellow color
Thermal washer dimensions

There is also another type of fastener - universal thermal washers. They are distinguished by the absence of a fixing leg. On the one hand, this deteriorates the quality of the fastener, on the other hand, there is no need to select a thermal washer with the required leg length.

Self-tapping screws for thermal washers can have either a hexagonal head, like roofing ones, or a round one, designed for straight or Phillips screwdriver. Their connection reliability is the same, but at the same time it is more convenient to work with a hex head - at high speeds of the screwdriver there is less risk of the bit slipping off the fastener and damaging the surface of the polycarbonate sheet.

The diameter of the screws used should be from 4.8 to 8 mm, the length depending on the thickness of the polycarbonate sheet and the frame element. Let's give an example: when building greenhouses, a 4 mm thick SPK and a profiled galvanized pipe with a cross section of 20x20 and a thickness of 1 mm are most often used. In this case, roofing screws of 4.8x19 mm are used as fasteners, and when connecting two sheets of polycarbonate with an overlap - 4.8x25 mm.

Point Connection - Tools

The main tool you will need for point mounting of polycarbonate on a metal frame is a cordless screwdriver with a set of attachments and drills. It is not recommended to use a powerful drill instead - its power is excessive for such work, and therefore overtightening of the screws, as well as slipping and damage to the attachments will be regular. In addition, the drill is too heavy and inconvenient for installing polycarbonate.

Cordless screwdriver

It was already mentioned above that, in addition to attachments for self-tapping screws, you will need metal drills for a screwdriver. To create holes for thermal washers in polycarbonate, use products with a diameter 2-3 mm larger than that of the fixing leg. If you plan to work with a frame with a wall thickness of more than 1.5-2 mm, then it is advisable to stock up on drills for creating preliminary holes in the metal - this way you can significantly make your work easier during the direct installation of the SPC. The diameter should be slightly smaller than that of self-tapping screws.

Advice! Thin sheets Cellular polycarbonate tend to vibrate when drilled, so before doing this it is better to fix them with clamps.

As for the rest of the tools, you will need:

• ladder;
• roulette;
• level;
• spare battery for screwdriver;
• construction knife with retractable and replaceable blade.

Installation of polycarbonate on roofing screws

The process must begin by marking the fastening points. Depending on the type of frame, the weight of the skin and the expected loads, the distance between the points should be from 25 to 70 cm. Marking is done both on metal and on polycarbonate (using a marker).

Step 1. Remove the packaging film from the edge of the cellular polycarbonate by 5-10 cm. If you want to create a thermal gap at the fastening points, drill holes in them 2-3 mm larger than the diameter of the screw. The holes should be no less than 3.5-4 cm from the edge of the sheet.

Step 2. Place the sheet on the frame with the side with the stabilizing coating facing out. If polycarbonate is laid from the edge of a greenhouse or other building, make sure that the “cornice” is not more than 5-10 cm, otherwise the material may sag.

Step 3. If two sheets are connected on one arch or other frame element, you can overlap them, as shown in the images below. However, polycarbonate manufacturers do not recommend such a connection, considering it unreliable and not tight enough - here it is worth using a connecting profile.

Step 4. Attach the end of the self-tapping screw to the polycarbonate, and if a preliminary hole with a thermal gap was made, then directly to the metal.

Step 5. Turn on the screwdriver and start screwing the screw perpendicular to the sheet, at low speeds and with little effort. As soon as the screw goes through the polycarbonate and metal and goes deeper, stop the process.

Step 6. Using short “jerks” of the screwdriver, tighten the self-tapping screw to the end. Be careful not to overtighten the fasteners.

How to properly attach polycarbonate to a metal frame

Step 7 Check for any defects or damage. If a small dent has formed, turn the screwdriver in reverse and partially unscrew the screw.

Step 8 Repeat steps four through seven for all other attachment points.

If you do not correct the situation with the overtightened self-tapping screw immediately, then in a couple of years the polycarbonate at the attachment point will crack and turn yellow. In addition, due to a violation of the tightness between the washer and the sheet, moisture, dirt and microorganisms will penetrate inside.

• The technique of attaching polycarbonate to a metal frame makes it possible to implement the most various options building structures, including awnings and roofing slabs dome and arch type.

  Some of the remarkable properties of polycarbonate that make it so attractive to the average user include:

  • transparency and strength;
  • lightness and flexibility;
  • possibility of operation in a wide temperature range (from minus 45 to plus 120 degrees);
  • environmental safety and durability (service life up to 20 years).

  Let's add this one too important detail, such as the ease of installation of covering elements made of this material.

  In addition to all of the above, canopies of various classes, acoustic barriers, greenhouses, fencing structures and much more are made from this material.

  Types of polycarbonate

  

  There are two types of polycarbonate products on the domestic market (cellular or honeycomb and with a monolithic structure), each of which has modifications that differ in the thickness and color of the material. They are made from the same raw materials, but have many structural and decorative differences.

  When choosing each of the known versions of polycarbonate, we are guided by the following considerations (initial data):

  • structure of the material (since honeycomb panels are hollow, they are lighter and easier to install);
  • cost per square meter;
  • method of attaching polycarbonate to metal;
  • its decorativeness and attractiveness;
  • durability of the material.

  Thus, when constructing greenhouses, canopies and canopies, preference is given to lighter cellular polycarbonate, and for decorative design For fences and other durable buildings, it is more convenient to use monolithic panels.

  The cost of a polycarbonate sheet can vary greatly; it all depends on the modification, thickness and size of the product being offered. Moreover, each user chooses the price range that he can afford (without compromising the quality of the purchased material).

  Regarding the question of how to attach polycarbonate to metal, it should be noted that each such product is accompanied by instructions that describe in detail the procedure for its installation. Due to the variety of its shapes, this material allows you to create complex shapes and original designs with fastening mainly on a substrate (frame or profile).

  Mounting features (installation standards)

  

  High strength properties of structures made from this material are achieved with appropriate orientation of the hollow channels included in its structure. So, when installing polycarbonate panels vertically greatest strength ensures their orientation from top to bottom, and for curved structures - parallel to the bend contour. For inclined elements, maximum rigidity can be obtained by placing sheets in the direction of the slope.

  When installing such products externally, polycarbonate with a protective coating that protects against UV radiation is usually used. All information on the type of protection and method of laying the panels is usually provided on the protective film, so it is not recommended to remove it until the installation of the products is completed.

  

  Before attaching polycarbonate to metal, you need to familiarize yourself with the restrictions on the permissible parameters of its installation, such as, for example:

  • the angle of inclination for a standard sheet length should not exceed 5 degrees, and for workpieces longer than 6 meters this figure can be increased;
  • bending radius when forming arched structures according to the specifications, there cannot be more than 150 nominal thicknesses of the panel itself;
  • diameter of holes prepared for fastening in general case choose 3 mm larger than the same size for the fastener.

  In addition, the list of restrictions specifies the type of hardware (fastening elements) or polymer materials used for fixing workpieces, the procedure for installing sealing gaskets and much more.

  Preparatory activities

  

  Before attaching polycarbonate to a metal frame, we advise you to pay attention to the fact that to install the sheets you will need the following set of tools:

  • hacksaw for metal;
  • electric drill with a set of drills and a screwdriver;
  • sharpened mounting knife;
  • measuring and marking tools (ruler and pencil).

  In addition, before starting work, you should prepare self-tapping screws with a galvanized tip (or of stainless steel) and a set of thermal washers that ensure reliable sealing of the joints.

  Even before they are carried out, you also need to pay attention to the following points:

  1 There are two types of polycarbonate fastening: frame and profile. In the first case, a frame with grooves up to 25 mm deep, made of wood, metal or plastic, is used. The internal dimensions of this design are selected in accordance with the dimensions of the workpiece used (taking into account the required clearances). When choosing the second option, special guide profiles are used for fastening. 2 Fixation on the profile frame can be carried out in two ways. This is the so-called “wet” method, which involves the use of special putty and sealants, and the “dry” method (using self-tapping screws, screws and bolted connections). 3 Self-tapping screws are screwed in perpendicular to the laying plane so as not to deform the material by excessive pressure. 4 During installation, it is mandatory to use sealing elements made in the form of rubber gaskets without plasticizers or a plastic profile.

  

  Gluing sealing gaskets to polycarbonate, as well as attaching it directly to metal, is not allowed.

  5 The spacer fixation step is 50 cm (taking into account a two-centimeter space from the edge of the frame). 6 When working with the “wet” method, you can use polyamide glue or double-sided adhesive tape (for lightweight structures). For external installation, weather-resistant silicone compounds are used. 7 Before gluing prefabricated elements, their surfaces are degreased using a solvent, which is usually used as isopropyl alcohol.

  When describing the upcoming work, we will consider the option of profile fixation of workpieces on a metal frame using the “dry” fastening method.

  Direct installation of polycarbonate blanks

  

  • Then the sheets are marked in accordance with the dimensions of the already mounted profile frames, on which attachment points are pre-marked and holes are drilled for the polycarbonate.
  • Before installing the workpieces, special sealing gaskets are placed in the profiles, secured in any way (but not with glue).
  • Already marked sheets with holes drilled in the appropriate places are mounted on these gaskets.
  • At the final step, all that remains is to fix the workpieces laid on the spacers with self-tapping screws, trying to maintain an even cut line.

  In conclusion, we note that there are often situations when, during operation, an incorrectly secured sheet is torn off by the wind and destroyed. To restore the surface of the structure, it is necessary to remove the remains of the destroyed material, lay new seals along the guide profiles, and lay a pre-prepared sheet of the required size on top of them. The new workpiece is fastened using the method we have already discussed earlier.