How to assemble a built-in wardrobe with your own hands. How to make a wardrobe for your bedroom yourself

The layout of Russian apartments is such that sometimes you can find niches in them where a closet just begs to be. Such spaces are located in corridors, kitchens or bedrooms. You can’t place a sofa or armchair, the corner is too far away, but installing shelves for storing things would be the optimal solution. Often, owners have the idea of ​​making a built-in wardrobe with their own hands, and this decision is completely justified. Thanks to such a design, you can effectively use the niche space, and a beautiful facade and false panels can not only enliven the room, but visually even make it larger, for example, if you make mirrored wardrobe doors. So, where to start if the desire to personally have a hand in improving the apartment burns in your soul. We propose to consider all stages of work point by point.

Before you get down to work, you first need to decide what material you plan to make the built-in wardrobe from; it depends on:

• how to build drawings;
• what tools are needed for installation;
• what assembly scheme to use to build the cabinet into the space allocated to it.

Depending on the specifics of the material, the process of arranging cabinets in niches can differ radically.

Material	Degree of compliance with the task	Rationale	Solution
Tree	Not very suitable for built-in cabinet type.	The air humidity in the niche is higher relative to the room as a whole. Wooden parts may swell and warp. The reason is changes in humidity from the blank wall towards the doors. When you open the cabinet, the humidity changes sharply, which triggers negative processes.	Take straight-grained wood, without knots, strands, or cracks. The wood must be seasoned and saturated as much as possible with a water-polymer emulsion or hot drying oil.
Lining	Limited fit.	Due to the fact that the frames of the doors will need to be made of wood, which is sensitive to moisture.	Use only when the interior design requires it.
Gypsum plasterboard sheet (GKL)	Unsuitable as a basis, although it has great potential.	Heavy, brittle and low-strength material. Not suitable for the manufacture of load-bearing structures. May bend under its own weight. When installed vertically it becomes deformed.	Used for finishing only. The shelves are made in the form of a box-shaped spatial structure based on a frame. Requires putty and decorative finishing. Only standard C and U profiles with standard fasteners are suitable for the frame.
Laminate, MDF, fiberboard	Great choice.	Simple construction design. Minimum costs. The materials are not sensitive to changes in humidity.	Fiberboard – medium, high density. A thin bar inside a niche will quickly move.

Wooden lining

Drywall

You will also need to purchase:

• self-tapping screws with dowels;
• guides and mechanism for sliding wardrobe doors;
• double sided tape;
• alcohol wipes for degreasing surfaces;
• friezes to the guides;
• mounting angles;
• hanging racks;
• rod holders.

Before installation, collect all the tools necessary for installing cabinets:

• electronic rangefinder or tape measure;
• level;
• electric jigsaw for cutting;
• screwdriver;
• screwdriver;
• electric drill for holes in the wall;
• hammer.

Before starting work, it is useful to look at the installation instructions for built-in wardrobes.

Rollers and fasteners

Materials

Design and drawing development

Before you take on cabinet drawings, you need to understand how to take measurements correctly. The niche in which you plan to install a wardrobe will not always have the correct geometric shape. That is why measurements in a niche must be carried out according to the following rules:

• first, measurements are taken along the back wall: at the top, at the middle level, at the bottom;
• then we also measure the “front part” with an indentation;
• height measurement also occurs in three positions from the “rear” and from the “front”.

Installing a built-in wardrobe without such measurements can lead to the fact that the body, made without taking into account errors and differences, either will not fit, or when trying to assemble the structure, serious gaps will be discovered. It will be a shame if the cut shelf turns out to be smaller than the required size and simply falls through. Before installing, carefully calculate all errors in order to leave allowance for installation. Sometimes it happens that the end drawing of the shelves resembles a trapezoid rather than the expected rectangle. It all depends on the quality of the walls, the density of the plaster on internal corners niches.

Next we move on to the drawing. If you do not have drawing skills, it is better to contact a designer. Based on your data and wishes regarding the material, they will make a drawing of your future wardrobe in a niche. In such work, you need to remember to take into account the thickness of the material, the edges, if you want to thoroughly cover the cut points, and the margin for the mechanism of the compartment itself, which also needs to be about 10 cm.

Having detailed diagrams on hand, you can be sure that the manufacture of cabinet parts will be more accurate. Allowances left when taking into account wall errors will make the installation more accurate.

Now, as for the design of the future cabinet: without much experience in drawing up drawings and installation, give up complex radial facade designs. Here you need not just skills, but good professional experience in order to calculate and then competently assemble such a structure. Limit yourself to more simple option cabinet, which you are guaranteed to be able to control during assembly. All decorative elements Please order strictly according to the drawing.

Sawing and fittings

If you decide to assemble a built-in wardrobe yourself, leave the sawing to a professional furniture shop. Building a high-quality drawing is half the battle; another question is whether you have the skills to cut out all the necessary parts and how long it will take you. Involving assistants in this situation is more than justified:

• furniture makers purchase materials at wholesale prices, you will have to do the same at retail prices, and this is an overpayment of at least 20 percent;
• Based on your drawings, specialists using computerized equipment will cut the parts quickly and with fewer defects. Cutting on a machine is of better quality than doing it manually, even with the best saw;
• Your cuts will be edged. This will help protect parts of the built-in cabinet from moisture and excessive swelling of materials. For details that will be visible, this will give additional decorative effect. The edge can be simple or thick with chamfers.

If you take laminate or MDF for the product, then the thickness for the body should be at least 16 mm, and for the doors - 25 mm.

As for the fittings, they can be purchased at specialized furniture stores. Before you begin installation, make sure you have everything you need.

Preparing parts

Cabinet parts

Fastening the frame

Before you begin installing the chassis, it is useful to look step by step video DIY built-in wardrobe. Even professionals watch training programs from time to time. If you have basic experience, this will help you build a consistent algorithm of actions. A detailed description of the procedure will indicate the important nuances that built-in furniture implies. The installation instructions will help you maintain order. installation work and get a functional result.

Built-in wardrobes are different in that they do not actually have their own frame. The floor, walls and ceiling of the cabinet are created in the niche itself. In this case, the frame will mean the false panel to which the compartment guides are attached.

When attaching such a frame, it is very important to compensate for unevenness if the ceiling, floor or walls form a slope. If this is not done, the compartment door guide will tilt and movement of the doors may become impossible.

To compensate for existing gaps, MDF or laminate inlays are used. The frame is leveled and secured with self-tapping screws to the walls along with the inlays. Decoration of cracks is carried out using friezes - decorative strips that are attached to double-sided tape or glued. The frieze is pre-cut from chipboard of the same tone as the rest of the cabinet parts with allowances, which are trimmed directly during the installation process.

Measurements and drawing

Installation of frame frames

Fastening the frame

Door preparation

For built-in furniture, doors are the facade. The most common compartment configuration is doors with internal guides. The drive rollers can be located either at the top (suspended) or at the bottom (thrust). The floor-standing version is quieter and more reliable, but requires maintenance. Owners will need to regularly clean the grooves from dust. Top design built-in rollers are less reliable compared to the first, but do not require special supervision, since the grooves do not become clogged.

We assemble the door; depending on your choice, the rollers are attached directly to the door leaf or using special frames. It can only be attached to the canvas when wood or chipboard is used. The facade can be made of plastic, glass, plates, mirrors. Some boast a cabinet with a prefabricated front.

Most often, doors are installed along two or three parallel guides. By assembling the rails in this way, you will get several doors, which will move overlapping each other while using the cabinet. Minimum overlap with this installation in closed view will be 2 cm.

If the number of door panels is even, then they are distributed in a checkerboard pattern along the guides, and if the number is even, then they can be left joined. Many consider the disadvantage of the compartment system to be the inability to gain access to the entire built-in structure at once. If, according to the description, the cabinet has doors, there is a high probability of hard-to-reach dead zones.

Another option for mounting guides is external. It is used much less frequently, since built-in cabinets do not often have space for running guides along the wall. This type of installation is suitable for samples built into a niche, otherwise the door leaves will sag. With this installation, dead zones are eliminated, but it is necessary to leave free space for the doors. If you want the doors to be removed, you will need to install a special box. It makes sense to be puzzled by such an idea when planning a major renovation.

Compartment door diagram

Fastening the shelves

Installation of cabinet shelves is carried out before the doors are secured. Once you have assembled the false frame panels, begin marking the internal space to secure the mounting angles. It is recommended to use a level to ensure that the cabinet shelves are installed strictly horizontally. Directly during installation, thanks to the allowances left, the parts’ blades are adjusted to fit inner space closet This is a normal procedure, but you should act carefully so as not to cut off excess:

• If the shelf is more than 800 mm long, be sure to install additional fasteners in the center area. The fact is that such a length under load contributes to the deflection of the material, so the structure should be strengthened;
• if you plan to install honeycomb shelves (lattice), use furniture clips;
• To install cross-shaped structures when dividing shelves into sections, dowels with additional PVA fastening are used.

When assembling corner compartment models, the shelves can be fastened using a stand in the corner part. This option helps to make the most of the space in the corner itself and prevent the formation of a dead zone.

Installing shelves

Shelf mounting option

Painting and installation of doors

If you plan to paint the cabinet doors, then start coloring before installing the shelves. This way, the door panels will have time to dry while you are installing the interior of the cabinet. Acrylic enamels are very good for sliding wardrobes. They give a beautiful color, a shiny surface and, if necessary, are easy to clean. This will be a practical choice if your closet is intended to store outerwear. Some people prefer to cover the structure with drying oil. Before painting, it is better to prime the surface, then the paint will lie evenly and adhere well.

To paint the interior surfaces of the cabinet, it is also better to choose a paint that is easy to clean and will not leave marks on things. Be sure to choose a high-quality option, otherwise you will have to repaint the cabinet very soon.

After all the cabinet parts have dried, you can install the doors in place. If there is no misalignment during installation of the guides, the mechanism will move smoothly, without jamming.

Fastening the guides

Door installation

Light and finishing

After the cabinet structure is completely assembled, it is necessary to take care of the finishing department and lighting arrangement. Make sure that there are no defects on the internal surfaces of the cabinet structure that could later lead to damage to things. Close all screw caps and eliminate cosmetic defects.

A large closet needs lighting. It is recommended to use LED devices for illumination. They save energy, do not heat up and will not burn things when heated. At the same time, they provide enough light so that you can easily find the right thing inside the closet.

Self-production of a sliding wardrobe built into a niche good idea for lovers self-assembly structures that will not only be able to take measurements and draw up a drawing, but also read it when they receive it from a specialist. Despite the apparent simplicity, the work still requires certain skills, so the decision to independently furnish a niche with a closet should be approached responsibly. Sometimes independent work It may come out cheaper than the work of professionals and vice versa. The video will help you make such built-in wardrobes with your own hands, and the installation process is not as complicated as it might seem.

Increasingly, people are trying to replace conventional ones with sliding wardrobes in their apartments, houses and even offices. But what is the reason for the popularity of this type of furniture, what are its pros and cons, what is it made of and is it possible to make it yourself? Our review today will help you sort out these questions and learn how to make a sliding wardrobe with your own hands (the drawings attached at the end will make the task much easier).

Read in the article

What is a wardrobe and is it really needed in the house?

Before we continue to analyze this type of furniture piece by piece, let’s look a little at the history. The first wardrobes, if you could call them that, were in the apartments of Napoleonic officers, which were supposed to hide the place of storage of clothes, shoes and other things from prying eyes. In the form we are familiar with, sliding wardrobes appeared in America in the 20s of the last century and since then their popularity has only been growing.

So, what is a wardrobe? In a nutshell, this is a box with a back wall, drawers, hanger bars and most importantly:. It is the sliding systems for wardrobes, which save space, that have made this furniture so popular. Sliding wardrobes can be installed either separately from other furniture or built into niches.

The good and the bad of sliding wardrobes

In general, as we have mentioned more than once, each device or appliance has its own advantages and disadvantages. Sliding wardrobes also have them.

The advantages can safely be attributed to:

• ergonomics:
• wide range of colors;
• diversity interior decoration and functional content;
• possibility of individual planning and lighting;
• possibility of embedding into niches;
• capacity;
• fits into almost any;
• versatility;

Sliding wardrobes have fewer disadvantages, but they still exist, namely:

• restrictions on the sliding and width of doors;
• relatively limited access to the cabinet shelves (free-standing design);
• price.

What types of wardrobes are there?

All sliding wardrobes can be divided into two types: cabinet or free-standing and built-in (usually in niches). Each of these types has its pros and cons.

Cabinet cabinets

The main advantage of cabinet or free-standing cabinets is their mobility. They consist of the same basic elements as, namely: sides, roof, bottom, shelves and doors. In addition, this design allows you to significantly save space due to sliding doors.

In addition to the straight-line design, you can also make your own corner cabinet with a sliding door system. True, its design has its own nuances.

Cutting the material and selecting accessories

After all the details have been calculated, you need to draw up a cutting map, which will reduce costs. In order not to bother, you can provide a list of parts with sizes and quantities to the company where you plan to buy the material. Most companies selling laminated chipboard, MDF and provide cutting and cutting services for the material.

As for furniture fittings, the main share of costs falls on the purchase of metal profiles, rollers and guides for wardrobes, mesh baskets, tie holders, rods, etc. You also need to purchase drawer guides and handles.

Cabinet filling

The filling of the closet largely depends on the needs and financial capabilities of the owner, since installation, for example, of pantographs and shoes, tie holders, etc., will cost a decent amount. We must think through functionality at the design stage. The closet must have a section for outerwear, a compartment with shelves for light items and bedding, drawers for small items and underwear, as well as a place for shoes and a mezzanine for rarely used and bulky items.

To place clothes on hangers, both longitudinal and transverse retractable rods can be used. You can also make stationary inclined shelves for shoes or install special movable lattice baskets. The same applies to shelves for linen. In general, manufacturers annually, if not monthly, offer more and more new and improved devices for storing clothes.

Everything related to doors and sliding systems

Doors for a sliding wardrobe can be the simplest (frameless), representing a piece of laminated chipboard required size equipped with plastic wheels. This is the simplest and cheapest option, which is now practically not used.

There are also more complex and expensive sliding door systems for sliding wardrobes. They consist of upper and lower metal guides, a frame made of steel or aluminum profile, rollers and filler made of chipboard, MDF, glass or mirror. Such systems are more reliable, durable and quite presentable. The most popular systems are Komondor and Braun.

This video will help you choose the right sliding door system:

Assembling a wardrobe

So, we have the drawing, the material has been ordered, cut and even delivered, as well as the necessary fittings, all that remains is to assemble our built-in wardrobe. Yes, we completely forgot about the tools. We will need the following:

• tape measure, metal ruler and square;
• electric drill and;
• confirmations;
• screws 3.5×16 mm, 3.5×25 mm;
• screwdriver;
• confirmation drill with a diameter of 5 mm;
• Phillips and hexagonal screwdriver bits;
• hammer;
• furniture nails 20÷25 mm.

Assembling the box and drawers

First of all, you need to inspect and mark all the parts of the wardrobe. First mark the sides, placing them with their back sides facing each other. When marking, be careful and take into account all the nuances. So, for example, the sidewall has a width of 600 mm, and the shelves are 500 mm, and during marking, some “parking” make the same indentation of 70÷80 mm on both sides of both the barrel and the shelves. As a result, we get mismatched holes and extra holes. To prevent this from happening, with different widths of the parts, markings must begin from the rear edge, that is, if the width of the barrel is 600 mm and the width of the shelf is 500 mm, the holes should be at a distance of 70 and 430 mm.

If you have no experience in assembling “live”, then it is better to drill the holes right away.

The boxes are best assembled as shown in the bottom picture. In our case, it is better to make two sidewalls 450 mm long. The height of the sidewalls of two drawers can be 140 mm, and one drawer can be made twice as deep. The guides must match the length of the barrels or be shorter. In order to correctly install the guides, you can use the template, which, in principle, is in the instructions for the product or search on the Internet.

The assembly is carried out using confirmations, and the façade is first attached to double-sided tape and then additionally secured with 3.5×25 mm screws. After the boxes are assembled, you need to check the diagonals, nail the fiberboard bottom and install the guides.

When calculating boxes, follow the following formula. Let's say we use 16 mm laminated chipboard, and the width of the upper shelves is 450 mm. This means we subtract 24 mm from 450 mm. on the guides and 32 mm on the sides of the drawers. As a result, the length of the middle sides of the drawer will be 394 mm. Very important when calculating openings, shelves, etc. take into account the thickness of the materials. Beginners often make these mistakes, which leads to damage to the material.

Important! Be sure to check the diagonals before filling the bottom of the drawers or the back wall of the cabinet. If this is not done, then the drawers may fit in with friction or not completely, and the doors will be skewed and will not fit properly with the sides of the cabinet.

If the upper or lower shelves are divided into several separate sections, but must be on the same line, then they need to be attached using the helicopter principle. In the lower figure, red dots mark the places where such shelves are attached.

After the box with shelves and drawers has been assembled and the back wall has been filled, you can lift and install the cabinet in the planned location. If there are gaps, you can close them with false panels made of the same material as the entire structure. Decorative strips are attached to the structure frame. After this, you can proceed to the manufacture of sliding doors.

The video “How to assemble a wardrobe with your own hands” will help you better understand all the processes of making furniture at home:

DIY sliding doors

In order not to make a mistake and not spoil an expensive profile, you can use the special Aristo program for calculating sliding doors. Before making facades, you need to decide on their filling, that is, whether they will be glass, mirror, laminated chipboard or a combination.

After making the calculations, you can begin assembly. First you need to mark and make holes in the side profiles for fastening. If the filling is glass or mirror, then we put a silicone gasket on the material and put a long piece of profile on it. Next, we attach the upper and lower blanks, and finally “dress” the last element of the frame. After this, you can begin to tighten the parts together using the screws that come with the kit, but you need to do this carefully so as not to pinch or strip the threads.

We install guides for the wardrobe on the bottom and lid and fix them with screws. Now you can install the doors. If you find a loose fit between the facade and the side frame, you will need to adjust the wardrobe doors.

Rollers for wardrobes

The roller system for sliding wardrobe doors plays a very important role. The choice of system depends on the comfort of use of the facades, as well as the weight that they can withstand without compromising operation.

For example, a roller system for a frameless door can withstand a weight of about 15 kg, while more serious and expensive mechanisms can support facades weighing 60÷100 kg. It is better, of course, to choose expensive systems from a trusted manufacturer, especially if the doors are made of mirror or glass with a sandblasted pattern.

After the doors are installed on the rollers in the guides, you need to install the schlagel on their long sides. Essentially, it is a bumper and softens the impact of the facades on the sidewalls, and also prevents dust from entering the cabinet.

In principle, the installation and adjustment of sliding doors completes the manufacture of a wardrobe. All you have to do is wipe the marker or pencil, brush away the sawdust and wipe it with furniture care product and you can enjoy the creation of your hands.

The presented video shows how to assemble wardrobe doors yourself:

Photo gallery of interesting wardrobe options

We looked at what a wardrobe is, what it consists of and is made of. We also found out that you can make such furniture yourself. However, most people still prefer to contact specialized companies that make kitchens, living rooms, children's rooms and wardrobes to order. Let's see what cabinet furniture manufacturers delight people with.

Decorative PVC film stickers

The simplest option for decorating facades for sliding wardrobes is to use vinyl stickers. The film can be easily pasted and, if necessary, replaced with a new one. Vinyl films are available in various patterns and different shapes. This decor is affordable for anyone.

What to consider when choosing a wardrobe

Before you buy or order a wardrobe, you need to consider several important points, on which the durability of the product, comfort of use and aesthetic pleasure of this piece of furniture will depend in the future.

1. Materials and accessories. It is clear that they must be of high quality, durable and have all quality and safety standards. It is best, of course, if they are from well-known, trusted manufacturers, since furniture is not a household item that is bought for 1–3 years.
2. Shape and dimensions. When buying a sliding wardrobe, of course, it is best to find out in advance the dimensions of the place where you plan to install it and focus on them accordingly. It is also necessary to take into account the shape of the cabinet. If it will simply stand against a wall or in a niche, then you should choose a rectilinear design, but if you intend to install it in a corner, then purchase a corner model, and if you have a large room, you can order a combined model - corner + rectilinear.
3. Content or functionality. Of course, this largely depends on your needs and wallet. There is hardly any need for a pantograph, mesh laundry baskets or tie holders in a small closet. A longitudinal rod for outerwear, shelves for linen and drawers for small items is quite enough.
4. Quality systems for sliding doors. Since sliding facades in a wardrobe account for almost the lion's share of the cost, it is natural that their quality should be taken seriously. The comfort of their use depends on the quality and reliability of sliding systems. It’s worth saying right away that the simplest system, the so-called “Polish” one, is not very good option– “crashes” literally after a year of use.

Where can you buy or order sliding wardrobes and how much does this pleasure cost?

A sliding wardrobe can be purchased in a store or from a specialized furniture company. It’s worth saying right away that the price of a custom-made wardrobe differs significantly from the finished product. But what else affects the cost besides individuality?

The cost of the cabinet also depends on the manufacturer. A model that from a well-known manufacturer costs, for example, 50,000÷70,000 rubles. You can buy copies from manufacturers at half the price.

Article

A wardrobe is a bulky and fundamental thing that is necessary in every home. Often purchased furniture is not suitable for the price, since intermediaries greatly inflate prices, sometimes they do not match in size or design. In this case, you usually have to look for a small company ready to fulfill a personal order. However, as practice shows, workshops ask for a lot of money. The most profitable solution In this situation, it is necessary to independently manufacture a cabinet at home.

Kinds

Before you start, you need to decide what kind of cabinet you need. Depending on the location, there are two main types:

• Built-in models, the main advantage of which is the presence of a floor, ceiling and some walls. This condition significantly reduces the cost of the project. Such options are convenient, since they can be adjusted to any existing niche: recesses in the walls, under the stairs. Oddly enough, this is also a disadvantage of built-in models, since they are built for a specific location and changes are no longer implied. In addition, the curvature of the load-bearing surfaces greatly affects the quality of the cabinets, so they must be leveled before starting the project.
• Hull free-standing cabinets are classic version. Models can be used in any type of premises. Can be disassembled and moved from place to place. In addition, crooked walls, floors or ceilings will not affect the installation. Among the disadvantages, one can note the high consumption of materials, compared to built-in modifications, and the associated increased cost. However, with proper selection of components, the cost can be reduced.
• Partially built-in models are something between the first two options.

Depending on the type of doors, cabinets are classified as follows:

• Sliding wardrobe with sliding doors and rigid frame. There are two subtypes: with a roller door movement mechanism and with a monorail. After appearing on the market, such options gained popularity due to the variety of models, designs, internal filling. In addition, the advantages are multifunctionality and space saving in the room.
• Models with hinged doors. Long service life is the main advantage of such options. As well as practicality and durability.
• Options with lifting door leaves.
• Open, doorless cabinets.

Designers also divide cabinets according to how they are assembled and style. The style is diverse: folklore, high-tech, baroque, empire, modern, rococo.

In terms of equipment, the following models can be distinguished:

• Standard options are typical for large productions; they are manufactured to standard sizes, without any frills. Practical and functional furniture. Most often used for offices.

Standard cabinet

Serial cabinet

Modular cabinet

• Serial production is a mass option. It is the release of products in one line, with certain characteristics within the framework of one concept.
• Modular cabinets have always been popular. Their advantages are mobility and functionality. Such structures can be divided into separate sections, easily dismantled, rearranged, and combined with each other.

If we consider cabinets by shape, the most common options are:

• Linear, in other words, straight.
• Corner (depending on the shape of the corner, L or U shaped).
• Round. Rounded side or front panels.
• Rectangular.

Linear

Angular

Round

Rectangular

Depending on the number of doors, there are double-leaf, single-leaf, three-leaf or open doors without doors. Of course, combined options are also popular.

The most main characteristic cabinets – functional. Only after a decision has been made on the purpose of the structure, all of the above classifications are taken into account. According to the purpose of use, cabinets are:

• For clothes. This includes dressing rooms, wardrobes, which are characterized by hangers for dresses, suits, ties, and trouser holders.
• For storing things. Here you can mark the cabinets for bed linen, dressers.
• Book. Use various modifications from open to combined.
• In the hallway. These models are characterized by shelves for shoes and hats, hangers-hooks, umbrella holders, a mirror, and built-in sections for outerwear.
• For kitchen. Often, such cabinets are equipped with specific mesh or pull-out shelves for kitchen utensils and dishes, hooks for towels and other small items.

Materials

The most common materials for making cabinet frames are as follows:

• Drywall. If a complex configuration is expected, then it is better to choose this option. GCR can be bent into any shape, since it is not afraid of deformation.
• MDF. Rigid frames that do not require bending are made from furniture panels that do not require cladding. The board is characterized by high density, unlike chipboard, which makes it more durable. The fittings fit better inside, and the likelihood of chipping when cutting slabs is low. The disadvantage is the large mass. The material is affordable, but more expensive than chipboard.
• Chipboard or laminated chipboard. To cut sheets, it is better to use the services of a workshop. At home, the quality of cuts can be poor due to the lack of necessary woodworking tools. You can make various complex elements from chipboard if you have the skills and the necessary machines. Laminated chipboard is distinguished by a laminated layer that protects the sheet from external influences and the user from formaldehyde. In addition, laminate is good for decorative purposes, as it imitates various coatings.

• Plywood. The material is low cost. The service life of plywood products depends on the thickness of the sheet, the quality of gluing, and the indoor climate. In any case, it is unsuitable for large structures of large mass, since it will sag under its own weight.
• Solid boards. When choosing, it is better to use wood that is easy to process. Cabinets made of wood species such as maple, ash, acacia, rowan, walnut, oak will outlive their creators many times over. It should be taken into account that the cost of the project in this case increases significantly.
• Old boards. IN Lately Vintage style is gaining popularity. It allows you to give a second life to old things.

For example, by disassembling an old cabinet, table, door made of boards, you can create an interior element such as a wardrobe, cabinet, or chest of drawers with your own hands.

• Boxes. The fashionable hobby of making furniture from packaging cardboard is widespread today throughout the world. Typically a thickness of one to three layers is used. Single-layer cardboard is usually used for interior walls and curved surfaces. To fill the volume, use material with greater thickness. Cabinets made from boxes are the cheapest, but most short-lived option.

Materials for making facades are of no small importance:

• The film is convenient in every sense. For the facade you can use the same materials as for the body, pasted over decorative coating. A wide range of films makes it possible to create vivid images, decorate a closet in the style of an existing interior. In addition, it is easy to care for.

• Photo wallpaper. An excellent and inexpensive solution for decorating the facade.

• A mirror is the most popular option, but rarely implemented when making cabinets yourself.

It must be remembered that mirror surfaces are fragile and require certain tools for cutting and adjusting to the required dimensions.

• Lining. There are two types of material: wood and plastic. The facade, made of lining of various widths, is suitable for an eco-style interior, for country houses, balconies. Most often, wooden slats are produced in 4 classes. Panels of type “C” are subject to the least degree of processing, so they may have knots and cracks. A, B and “Extra” are more attractive, and also have a low resin level.

Where to start?

Initial stage self-made cabinet is design.

You need to take it seriously, for this you need:

• Determine the future location of the structure. The dimensions and quantity of required materials depend on this.
• You should decide what shape the cabinet is planned to be built: straight, corner, built-in, and so on.

• Sketch sketches of the exterior and interior contents. Determine in advance how many sections, drawers, shelves there will be. Fix the desired number of doors, sliding and hanging elements. Determine the order of arrangement of hooks, hangers, holders. Even the need to install a decorative facade should be decided at this stage.
• Select the material, determine the color of the product, comparing all the parameters with the style of the interior. If necessary, decide what texture the façade should have. Identify a company that produces furniture fittings, based on reviews from specialists.

After this the different measurements and calculations are made. It is necessary to understand that calculating the dimensions does not mean measuring the width and length of the cabinet. At the same time, you need to measure the distances between the shelves and the width of the sections. All dimensions are transferred to the drawing for clarity.

When taking measurements, it is necessary to take into account that the standard width of the sash should not exceed one meter. In addition, you should remember about the thickness of the sheet from which the body is made, so 1-2 centimeters are added to the width of the sash. In the same way, the allowance for the height of the door panels is calculated.

The diagram should be clear and take into account all the desired parameters. If it is difficult to complete such a drawing yourself, you will have to turn to specialists.

Features of fastenings

An important stage in building a cabinet with your own hands is the selection of fittings. Today, the furniture industry offers a huge number of fastening and connecting elements. Their characteristics depend on the functional features of the cabinet and operating conditions.

Often, for wooden cabinets with hinged doors, four-hinged doors are used. door hinges, which are divided into several types:

• Invoices. The most common option for sashes.
• Semi-overlay hinges are suitable when one section is closed by two doors.

• Internal or hidden are installed on the inside of the door.
• Corner models are necessary for furniture located in corners that require installation of the doors at an angle of 45 degrees.

• Inverse awnings allow the door to be opened 180 degrees.
• Piano mechanisms have a low degree of reliability, and therefore are rarely installed on cabinets.
• Mezzanine hinges have a spring in their mechanism.

Glass sashes can be secured using the following elements:

• mounting strips;
• fastening loops;
• O-rings;
• stubs.

For short canvases, two fastenings are sufficient; when lengthening to 1.5 meters or more, the number of loops is increased. If desired, you can install a closer to protect your fingers from injury and increase the durability of the mechanism.

There are several types of shock absorbers, differing in technical parameters and installation method:

• The damper is the simplest and cheapest. There are many options on the market, the simplest of which is the self-adhesive model. It is a disk of soft material thickness from 1.5 to 5 mm, diameter from 7 to 10 mm, which is glued to the end of the body. For one sash you need at least two pieces.
• Hinge closer. It should be noted that such designs must be purchased immediately with a loop from one manufacturer. The model has the effect of smooth closing of the sash.

Damper

Hinge with closer

• Overhead and mortise shock absorbers, unlike those described above, do not depend on the type of hinges. The advantage of invoices is that they are easy to replace, which does not happen often. However, when installing a closer of this type, additional space is required for the hole in the box on the end wall. The advantage of the mortise version is that no installation space is required; on the other hand, it is more difficult to replace.

Overhead (left) and mortise (right) shock absorber

Hinged doors are often equipped with mechanisms designed to open up, down, or in the form of an accordion.

The models are easy to install, their cost is low, and they are convenient to use:

• Gas elevators and lifting mechanisms combine the functions of opening and closing up and down. The fundamental selection criterion is the weight of the sash, since the device has varying degrees of force.
• Parallel, angled and accordion opening mechanisms. The advantage is greater access to the contents, improved ergonomics of cabinets. The disadvantage is the high cost.

Lifting mechanism

Parallel

At an angle

Accordion

Shelf mounts also have their own classification:

• Stationary ones are mounted using several types of holders.
• Overlays that are mounted to the wall, to the cabinet body or to the facade. In this case, the shelf is placed on top. Represent different kinds corners.

• The mortise ones are built into the cabinet.
• Brackets are used for heavy loads.

• Retractable options consist of rollers and guide rails along which they move. In addition, the mechanisms are usually equipped with limiters and seals.
• Rotating models. The main part is the axis of rotation, usually in the form of a pipe of the required height. Additional items– fasteners for the upper and lower parts of the axle, flanges for mounting the shelf.

How to do it yourself: step-by-step instructions

Before you start working on the project, you need to prepare everything necessary materials, components and tools.

The following may be required:

• drill or hammer drill;
• level;
• ruler or measuring tape;
• pencil;
• hammer;

• glue;
• self-tapping screws, fastening fittings;
• screwdriver;

• a hacksaw or circular saw (if you intend to cut out the parts yourself);
• iron;
• construction knife.

The cabinet assembly scheme at home consists of several stages.

Preparation of parts:

• Cabinet elements are cut out from sheets of the selected material: cabinet walls, doors, shelves, drawer elements. Maximum precision is achieved using a circular saw. Cutting can also be done with a hacksaw, but in this case, without skill and experience, chips are possible.

• Edge processing. For edging, PVC tapes matching the color are used. Their cost is low, and it is very convenient to process the edges with it. Typically, the thickness of the tape varies from 0.4 to 2 mm. Typically, a thicker one is used to process the apron of visible ribs, and a thinner one is used for those hidden from view. The action plan in this case is as follows.
• The iron is turned on at three-quarters of its maximum power.

• The tape is applied to the end with the adhesive surface and ironed several times.
• Run along the edge with a soft, dry cloth, pressing firmly.
• The remaining tape is cut with a knife.
• Preparation of accessories. It is necessary to collect the required number of fasteners, hinges, handles, hangers and other important details.

Frame assembly:

• If the cabinet is built-in or will be located under the stairs, then most likely it will be missing any frame elements: lower or upper strip, sidewalls. In this case, the walls should be prepared for installation of the structure, leveled, puttied, painted or pasted over.
• If other cabinet options are planned, then drill holes in the places of future fastenings.
• Connect the body parts together. First of all, the sidewalls are attached to the bottom, then the upper part must be attached to them. For work, it is better to use the simplest fasteners - confirmats.
• Checking verticality using a level.
• If necessary, secure the back wall.

Installation of shelves and cabinets:

• To begin with, make markings for dividing the internal space into sections. Next, mark the location of the shelves and built-in cabinets.
• Install sectional partitions. Depending on the plan, they can be from the floor to the ceiling of the cabinet, or below. In the latter case, the presence of a horizontal partition is implied.
• Fastenings for internal filling are installed on the side and sectional panels of the frame. If stationary shelves are planned, then these can be ordinary corners. In the case of retractable shelves or drawers, guide gutters are installed.
• Installation of other elements: hooks, holders, hanging rods.

Then the doors are fastened. In order to assemble cabinet doors, you must adhere to certain algorithms for different door options.

Closet:

• Installation of the upper and lower guides, monitoring their parallelism using a plumb line.
• Installation of stoppers.
• Installation of roller elements on the door, if this type of mechanism is planned.
• The doors are inserted into the grooves, starting from the top, until they click.
• Check whether the sash moves freely.
• Installation of additional fittings if necessary.

Swing doors:

• Hinges of the selected type are installed on the doors.
• If necessary, shock absorbers are installed.
• The handles are screwed in.
• The verticality and closing mechanism are checked.

Tilt and lift doors:

• For hinged doors, gas elevators are most often installed. Purchased mechanisms are always equipped with instructions. You should read it carefully before installation. First of all, fasteners for gas elevators are installed on the side parts of the cabinet body.
• Such fasteners are installed on doors that will rise.
• Next, the doors are mounted using canopies or hinges on the side that will be the future axis of rotation.
• Then the elevators are installed. To do this, their head must be placed on the fastener until it clicks on both sides.
• With the door closed, adjustments are made.
• Professionals emphasize that at least 2 mechanisms must be installed on one façade to prevent warping.

Then the final processing of the cabinet is carried out. At the end of assembly, the appearance is completely sanded. All screws are closed with decorative plugs. Polishing with a soft cloth is necessary to clean the product from dust and drilling residues. The facades are designed depending on the designer’s ideas using mirrors and other decorative elements.

You can also see how to make a cabinet with your own hands in the video below.

Organization of internal space

The functional structure of the internal filling of cabinets consists of many elements that satisfy the owner’s requirements. A competent design should provide easy access to any things in the closet and prevent the formation of odors.

Pull-out and sliding drawers, rotating shelves are not only convenient to use, but also ergonomic in nature. They allow you to rationally use the internal space. For large wardrobes, lifting rods are often used for hangers and trouser holders, which can either rise or, if necessary, go deep into the closet. If the design is intended for a hallway, then it includes a box for storing shoes and shelves for hats.

Kitchen cabinets are filled with a variety of elements, from swivel breakfast bars to a pull-out cutting board. Due to the fact that it is necessary to store many different utensils in the kitchen, the functionality interior decoration cabinets have many faces and are determined only by the wishes of the owners.

How to post?

The wardrobe is the most bulky interior element in the room. There are options for their location that will allow you to “hide” and not clutter up the space.

In a niche

If the apartment has natural niches, this will greatly facilitate the task. The cabinet is simply built into them. Niches can be created artificially, which will allow not only to install structures for storing things in them, but also other interior elements: a fireplace, a TV.

Part of the room

If the space allows, then you can fence off a piece of the room and organize a wardrobe in it. At the same time, it is better to choose the darkest corner of the room so that the room remains light.

Pantry

Private houses are sure to have different storage rooms. Sometimes they are found in city apartments. If the owner wishes, the cabinet can be perfectly hidden in the pantry. At the same time, the effort for its design is minimal, since the functions of the body are performed by the walls of the room. It is enough to organize the internal content.

• Openings. Inter-door and inter-window distances can be used rationally using modular cabinets. The structures are mounted on both sides of the opening; mezzanines can be installed above the opening. The element connecting the cabinets under the window is often designed in the form of a bench or sofa.

What can you make from an old wardrobe?

If you lost your old cabinet appearance, but the fastening elements are intact and not loose, the body also does not have significant flaws, in this case you should pay attention to various techniques that allow you to remake or decorate outdated furniture.

There are many budget options to update your cabinets:

• Repaint it yourself, for example, using stencils.
• You can cover the doors with photo wallpaper or vinyl film.

• If the panels are glass or mirrored, then you can use the services of private workshops for matting or sandblasting.
• Decoupage using vintage paper or wallpaper.
• Can be used in the kitchen tiles for decoration of facades.

If the fastenings do become loose and fall out, it is impossible to keep the cabinet in its original form. In this case, elements for another design can be cut from its parts. Craftsmen create benches, shelves, poufs and other interior items.

Interior layout ideas

Large built-in wardrobes are popular. They are installed both in hallways and living rooms. Usually they occupy all the space provided from floor to ceiling. Internal content is organized depending on the wishes of the owner. Advantages - functionality, the ability to integrate various elements for storing things, including vacuum cleaners, ironing boards, washing and dishwashers. Such structures can be installed in any places inaccessible to cabinet furniture, in attics, niches, corners.

Sliding wardrobes are popular regardless of the size of the apartment and the income of the owners. They are attracted by their ease of use and the ability to adapt them to room conditions. It is quite possible to make them yourself if you know the features of design, calculations and installation.

Types of sliding wardrobes - from what material, where to install

It’s easier to make a rectangular wardrobe with your own hands; professionals can do radius ones with a curved surface. The most convenient place there is a niche for installation. The attractiveness of this location is that an inconvenient place becomes useful, with virtually no impact on the living space.

Installation in the opening between rooms saves the cost of a partition and its decoration, and a built-in wardrobe separates the rooms. The compartment can be installed in the corridor against the wall, which is especially beneficial for small apartments: Doesn't take up much space, which is not enough.

Cabinet sliding wardrobes are also used for zoning rooms. They do not have a back side, they have two front sides, with access to the wardrobe on both sides. Small room Do not overload with furniture; use standard furniture. To the hallway large sizes You can install a spacious wardrobe. If the space allows, then you can easily realize the dream of every woman - the closet turns into a dressing room. Costs increase as sizes increase. Below is a diagram of a large wardrobe for the hallway.

Many materials are suitable for coupes, including laminate, lining, MDF. Only in this case will you have to make frames for the door leaf from wood. They use chipboard, which is convenient for installation due to its large size. Using drywall is possible, but the material is fragile, cannot withstand heavy loads, and sag noticeably without reliable fastening. A simple option is to use an old cabinet with a replacement swing doors for sliding ones.

Room measurements - how to avoid installation difficulties

Making furniture requires right angles, and room walls with such precision are rare. Deviations from rectangular shape may be centimeters, but even a few millimeters can cause installation difficulties. This is especially true for niches, where builders very rarely maintain a right angle.

We take measurements at several points and record the results. We retreat 20 cm from the back wall and mark measurement points on parallel walls. We calculate the height from the floor: the first points are at a distance of 0.8 m, the second - 1.4 m and the third - 2.2 m. Next, we retreat from the first measurements by 30 cm and take another one at the same height. Deviations will have to be corrected with plaster. The walls in the niche can be primed with water-based emulsion, and then painted with acrylic enamel and forget about dust on the surface for many years.

We check the horizontality of the floor and ceiling with a level, but problems may arise with the squareness of the opening. You won’t be able to measure it yourself using a cord, and the accuracy is too low. We use a simple device of two slats with pointed ends. We fasten them in the middle with rubber rings, insert them into the opening diagonally, and at the point of convergence, make a solid mark with a pencil on the surface of both slats. We check another angle and look at the marks: the discrepancy in the thickness of the mark is 0.3–0.4 mm.

Sizing calculations - impact on cabinet design

Before installing the cabinet in a niche, we determine its width, which furniture makers understand as length. It should not be made as close as possible; it is better to deviate from the minimum length of the niche of 6 cm, then the cabinet is guaranteed to fit into the opening. If the structure is located autonomously against the wall, we reduce the tolerance.

When determining the length, we also take into account the dimensions of the material, which you need to know in advance. Using chipboard, we mean that the size of the plate is 1830 mm × 2750 mm. Drywall 2.5 or 3.0 m long, 1 m wide. We try to ensure that the width of the cabinet is equal to the width of the slab or less. Then there will be no difficulties with installation. As for lining and MDF, we try to ensure that the length of the cabinet is a multiple of the width of the strips.

Sometimes it is necessary to make furniture that exceeds the standard width sheet material. The easiest way is to increase the missing length with a segment. At the joints of the bottom and the ceiling we get a weak point, which can deform under load. To avoid this, we place supports at the joints. You can make two cabinets, and then combine them into a single whole. The only drawback is the excessive consumption of materials for the extra wall.

When calculating the depth, we take into account usable space, used for storing things, then we add 100 mm to it for the sliding system. We choose the height of the cabinet to be 10 cm less than the distance from floor to ceiling, excluding the height of the roof. This will allow you to assemble a massive product in a horizontal position, then lift it without touching the ceiling.

A rigid frame and a strong base are the conditions for furniture stability

If the frame is insufficiently rigid, the cabinets sway, and the main reason for this is the lack of stiffeners. Fiberboard sheet for rear walls cannot provide it. We add transverse 25 cm wide chipboard ties to each section at different levels and fasten them with confirmations. This arrangement will provide maximum rigidity.

For a cabinet frame made of plasterboard, only a metal profile with purchased fasteners is acceptable.

Incorrect placement and insufficient number of supports will lead to deformation of the bottom under load. To avoid this, we install supports 30–40 mm from each bulkhead. The sliding wardrobe can be installed on through supports 25 mm high with the possibility of adjustment through holes in the bottom. The only inconvenience is the gap between the bottom and the floor, which will serve as a garbage container. The second option is to use kitchen legs with a height of 100 mm.

Filling – installation of shelves, drawers and clothes rails

If the shelves are located in separate sections at different levels, there are no problems: using confirmations is suitable. Where it is impossible to screw them in, corner furniture ties are installed. When installation on the same centerline is required, a "helicopter" can be used for confirmat mounting. In the middle of one of the shelves we screw in the confirmation and turn it along the axis. We screw two confirmations into the shelf opposite and return it to its place. On opposite sides we also fasten each shelf with two confirmations.

When calculating the installation of drawers, do not forget about the height of the bottom rail so that the drawer does not rest against it.

To store clothes on hangers in the closet, install a rod in a longitudinal or transverse arrangement. The classic longitudinal rod requires a minimum depth of 60 cm. The transverse version uses a retractable rod. It is fastened with four screws, which is unreliable. Instead of a lift rod, it is better to install a regular one. We screw vertically two longitudinal chipboard boards to the top shelf, and in the usual way We attach the shortened rod.

Calculating the width of doors - the principle “so as not to interfere”

When the door slides to the side, it should completely open access to the section and not interfere with pulling out the drawer or lowering the pantograph lift. Let's look at an example with a three-section coupe with a width of 2100 mm:

1. 1. Measure the width of the internal opening. In our example using chipboard, it will be 2068 mm.
2. 2. Take away the double width of the buffer tape glued to the outer doors of the cabinet. The thickness of each is 6 mm, so we get a total of 2068 minus 12 – 2056 mm.
3. 3. We take into account the overlap of the doors, which in a three-section cabinet is 26 mm on both sides, which in total is 52 mm. The total width of all doors is: 2056 mm plus 52 mm, resulting in 2108 mm. We divide the total width by three, and it comes out to 703 mm.

Such a simple calculation will provide free access to the sections.

Door suspension - features of different systems

There are suspension systems with two guides and with a monorail. The system based on the bottom rail is most widespread. The top rail only serves to support the doors. The system does not jam, touching the sashes is excluded. Installation is simple: insert the top into the groove, lift it up, and put the bottom in place.

The system based on the top rail is simple, the fittings are cheap, and installation is simple. The movement of the shutters is quiet and smooth. It has significant drawbacks, so it is rarely used. If you press the door carelessly, the rollers may come out of the grooves and the door will go inside the cabinet. The upper guide is not very rigid; a perfectly flat ceiling and reliable fastening are required.

In a monorail system, each door runs on pairs of rollers on separate rails. They keep the doors from wobbling to a certain extent; the bottom guide is not used. The suspension is precise, rigid, and well adjustable. But the monorail is installed mainly in the bedroom, where only adults will use the closet, since handling such a system requires care.

Door structures - step-by-step assembly guide

1. 1. Calculate the length of the profiles and cut them. The height of the sashes depends on the clearances required for normal operation, they are indicated in the instructions for the suspension elements.
2. 2. Drill holes for attaching the vertical handle profile: outer 10 mm, inner 5.5 mm. We drill in the inner and outer wall holes 5.5 mm, then drill out to 10 mm in the outer one. Fastening and adjusting parts pass freely through the outer hole and are attached to the inner one.
3. 3. Install the profiles on the filler: first horizontal, then vertical. It happens that the profile finds it tight, then we use a rubber mallet, with which we apply gentle blows, but not directly on the profile, but through a piece of wood.
4. 4. Connecting profiles. In the upper part we screw a self-tapping screw into the profile, but not completely, so that there is some space left, install the roller and tighten the self-tapping screw. We tighten the profiles from below, insert the lower rollers into the horizontal profile, and screw the adjusting screw through the hole in the vertical profile.
5. 5. Install the upper guide. There are no nuances here, the only thing that should be observed is the absence of gaps with the side walls.
6. 6. Before installing the bottom rail, we lay it from below, installing stoppers, and hang one sash. We move the bottom rail 20 mm inside the cabinet and screw it on.
Built-in wardrobes diagrams and drawings

The most popular compartment designs are built-in and separate. They can be assembled from ready-made kits or ordered cut to their own sizes. To make calculations easier, we offer universal drawings of sliding wardrobes. All you have to do is take them as a basis and adapt them to the required sizes.

You may not have been able to find suitable design. Or it didn’t work out within the budget. Or maybe you just wanted to make something with your own hands, thereby making your family proud. Follow our instructions, put in a little effort - and very soon your hallway, loggia or bedroom will be decorated with a nice and functional wardrobe.

Where to begin?

So, you decided to do a real manly (and maybe also feminine) thing and assemble a closet with your own hands. The first step is to decide for what purpose you are making it, what it should look like and what functions it should perform - in other words, organize the design.

This piece of furniture will serve you long years, therefore, the preparatory stage should be approached with special attention:

• Decide in which room you will place the new wardrobe. Whether it will be a living room, a loggia or a corridor is important, because cabinets for different rooms, as a rule, differ in materials, fittings, and components. Then choose a place in the room and find out what size the planned product should be.
• Calculate the design parameters: width, height and depth, space between shelves, number of shelves, hooks, hanger bars or other components.

• Decide on the shade and design of the intended piece of furniture.
• What goes in the cabinet traditionally determines how the interior space will look. There are the following principles: “raw” things are placed to the side, the most necessary and small things are stored at eye level, “dry” things are on the top shelves, and valuable things are stored in drawers. For example, you cannot place a section for outerwear or umbrellas in the middle - dampness from it will spoil things on the right and left. If it is placed in a corner, then the moisture will escape out. Boxes or shelves for bed linen should not be placed above the floor - there should be a separation of about forty centimeters from the surface to prevent dust and moisture from entering. Better move them to the top section. The more carefully you think about the placement of contents, the smaller the width of the shelves, which means you save space. It is worth remembering that a successful layout guarantees convenient operation and long service life of a piece of furniture.

Popular models

There are many models of cabinets, which, as a rule, can be made of the same materials, but serve different purposes.

• For clothes. Designs of this type are distinguished by the presence of special components. A closet for storing clothes must have a hanger bar (transverse or longitudinal), shelves and hooks. You can also add a mirror to this list, drawers for underwear and a shoe cabinet. Very often, such a piece of furniture is built-in or wall-mounted - installed along the wall using an artificial niche made of plasterboard. Made of wood or metal profiles a frame is assembled and attached to the floor. Then it is covered with plasterboard, the structure is puttied and sanded. After this stage, the installation of shelves and doors (hinged or “compartment”) occurs.

• Shoe. There are two types of shoe storage structures. The first one is how component wardrobe for storing clothes. The second is like a separate chest of drawers, on the lid of which keys, gloves, hats and other small items can be stored. The shelves do not have to be wooden - it is possible to choose the type of dish dryer. Lattice shelves made of metal combine functionality and attractive appearance. Be sure to leave the bottom of the cabinet open, otherwise excess water will accumulate inside. The depth of the shelves should match the length of the box from the largest pair of shoes in your apartment.

• Book. Models of bookcases are divided into open and closed. The latter protect books from dust, moisture and light, but the former look better in the interior. Also distinguished are cabinet cabinets (the most common), modular (giving the opportunity to combine elements and change the appearance), built-in (with a sliding door system), and corner. Most often, these pieces of furniture are assembled from chipboard or MDF. The classic depth of a bookcase is 400 millimeters, height is 2 meters, and width is 800 millimeters. Most books and magazines fit comfortably inside at these figures. Shelves can be mounted not on the corners, but cut into the sides of the cabinet. To make the furniture aesthetically pleasing, use decorative moldings - overhead convex strips.

• Swing. This type is one of the simplest and most familiar for Russian apartments. The design can be very different, and the content can include shelves, drawers, bedside tables or hanging rods. These cabinets are used to store some personal items, clothes, dishes, hobby or handicraft items - in general, for anything.
• Built-in. In addition, you can assemble a cabinet placed in a niche or under the stairs, if possible. These models allow you to save space and refresh your interior design.

Options for different rooms

The design and internal contents of the cabinet depend on the purpose of the room and the required functionality.

• If you are looking for storage for a small living room or narrow hallway, give priority to sliding wardrobes (built-in models), which do not take up much space but allow you to store a large number of of things.
• If you need to choose a wardrobe for the bedroom, then pay attention to the spacious designs, which house a variety of shelves, drawers and modules, bedside tables, rods, racks and hooks. Both sliding wardrobes and regular hinged models are suitable.
• Kitchen sets usually consist of hinged cabinets with big amount drawers.

• Non-standard models look good in a children's room, for example, modular bookcases with bright colors.
• The simplest swing models with a couple of shelves and mirror surfaces are suitable for the bathroom.
• The hallway is a place for built-in structures, including corner and shoe chests of drawers.
• Wardrobes on balconies and loggias are equipped with numerous shelves and compartments and are hinged structures. It is worth considering that a cabinet made of chipboard can only be installed on an insulated loggia, otherwise the panels will begin to warp and the furniture will not last long. Natural wood, properly treated with water-repellent compounds, will last much longer, even in the presence of excess moisture. Open shelves are the simplest option for a balcony cabinet.

What to make it from?

The materials for the production of cabinets are not particularly diverse.

Furniture panels or plates

Chipboard, laminated chipboard and MDF are panels or slabs made of compressed shavings, fibers and sawdust. MDF is a fibreboard made from very fine chips by hot pressing. This material is dense, flexible and easy to process. The fasteners inside such slabs last much longer; in addition, they do not deform due to changes in temperature and humidity. MDF is quite environmentally friendly and highly durable.

Chipboard - chipboard - consists of compressed and glued sawdust and large shavings with the addition of binding resins. This material is quite fragile and afraid of water, but it can only be achieved flat surface. Chipboard is usually chosen for bookcases and wardrobes. The boards are cheaper in comparison with MDF and laminated chipboard.

Laminated chipboard is a laminated chipboard, the surface of which is treated with a special melamine film. In common parlance it is called “laminate”. The material is moisture resistant and has a wide color palette. Laminated chipboard is much stronger than chipboard due to the fact that the coating is pressed into the structure of the board itself.

All three varieties are quite cheap, easy to process, strong and durable.

Plywood

Plywood is a durable material that does not dry out, is environmentally friendly and does not require additional processing due to its smooth surface. Sold in whole sheets, so does not require joining. If you purchase treated and varnished plywood, you will save time due to the fact that the cabinet will only need to be assembled.

Cardboard

Making furniture out of boxes is no longer a fun hobby - it's now a serious interior design practice. By choosing high-quality cardboard, you can make not only a closet, but also a chest of drawers, a table and even a bed. Such furniture is environmentally friendly, cheap, mobile and surprisingly durable. The only negative is that if left in a humid environment for a long time, it loses its usability. To give cardboard strength, it is customary to use parquet varnish. You can work with this material by gluing sheets layer by layer, creating frame objects, which are subsequently covered with paper, modular designs and even origami. Cardboard furniture should be symmetrical, or with additional supports, and with the presence of transverse parts. Keep in mind that the thicker the cardboard, the stronger it is, and light cardboard is not as durable as dark cardboard.

When designing furniture, remember that 60 millimeters will be occupied by the furniture decor, so when drawing up drawings you need to take this length into account.

Solid boards

A wooden cabinet made of pine or spruce will serve you for decades without changing its qualities. In addition, wooden furniture always looks elegant and weighty. Their cost depends on size, damage, dryness and breed. Pine and spruce are the most commonly chosen woods, with hardwoods also popular.

Lining

Wardrobes lined with clapboard can be placed on a balcony or in a storage room. This material is cheap, durable and aesthetically pleasing. When choosing a material, it is recommended to use lining made of hardwood, since coniferous wood deteriorates from long exposure to the sun.

Drywall

It is possible to make a cabinet from plasterboard, but it is still not recommended. This material is quite heavy and fragile, intended for finishing something. Therefore, it is not possible to store any tangible cargo in a drywall cabinet.

A sheet of drywall sags within six months, even if there is nothing on it.

Accessories

TO furniture fittings for cabinets include:

• fastenings for shelves, hangers and mirrors;
• furniture hinges;
• roller and ball guides;
• handles and decorative fittings;
• thrust bearings and legs;
• retractable mechanisms.

Everything that is used for fastening to the wall (bolts, ties and other hardware), as well as for opening and closing doors and drawers, must be made of high-quality materials.

How to make a drawing yourself?

At first glance, assembling a cabinet is quite a troublesome and resource-intensive task, but do not forget about all the possible advantages:

• you personally select materials, which means you have the opportunity to save money and purchase only the highest quality;
• Having understood the instructions, you will understand that making a cabinet with your own hands is not so difficult: ordinary tools are used, and the materials are easy to process;
• making furniture can develop into a hobby that brings tangible dividends.

Having completed preparatory stage, start creating a drawing. The planned model of the cabinet needs to be transferred in detail to a sheet of A4 paper. First, draw the frame of the future product, indicate the dimensions of the walls, doors and bases. Then transfer the shelves and internal components onto the paper. Again, indicate the length and width on the diagram. Consider the dimensions of the structure and the layout of the apartment, calculate the number of shelves, hooks, rods, the presence of mirrors and their placement in the interior space. Do not forget that the width of ordinary clothes hangers is 40-42 centimeters, and when you hang something on them, it becomes even wider. To complete this step, use a measuring tape, a pencil, and a piece of paper.

Also, drawings can be made in special computer programs: Autocad or “Basis-furniture maker”.

When the drawings are ready, you need to start cutting the parts. However, it is quite difficult to do this at home - the machine is very expensive, and using a jigsaw leads to chips, so hand over the sketches with dimensions for manufacturing to professionals who will do it quickly and efficiently.

When you receive the finished parts, go shopping for accessories. Mainly, you will need confirmations, rivets, guides, corners and holders. Consider the design features and your own preferences.

When choosing a system for opening doors, do not forget that they can open to the sides, up and down, or be a “compartment”.

How to assemble correctly: step-by-step instructions for assembling a wall cabinet

The first thing you need to do is mark the shelf holders and drawer guides, depending on where you want to see them and in what quantity. Make sure that the parts are parallel. Attach fasteners and, if possible - the cabinet is located at the junction of two walls - install shelves. If desired, secure them with glue and nails. Reinforce doors with awnings. Also screw in the guides if you are assembling a wardrobe.

Then you should select the required drill and symmetrically drill holes for confirmations for butt joints. Don't forget about the holes for rods, shelves and partitions.

Start assembling the frame against the wall: arrange furniture panels, plywood or solid boards according to the drawings, connect them together using nails, screws and glue. Place the frame a few millimeters lower than the ceiling level. Install the side frame first and then the front frame. Leave gaps between the cabinet and frames.

After connecting the frames, level the position using wedges.

If you are using chipboard, add decorative edges along the seams. Iron it through the towel and then trim off the excess edge. The iron must be set to three-quarters of the maximum power, and then passed over the edge, the adhesive side attached to the chipboard. Afterwards, iron the hot edge with a dry cloth to press the edges more tightly, and trim off the excess with a knife. If you are using unpainted boards, then it’s time to “ennoble” the cabinet with paints, sandpaper and varnish. Roughness is best treated with fine-grained sandpaper wrapped around an object of suitable size and shape. You can also use special furniture tapes.

Attach the doors to the body using hinges or special fittings.

Attach the plugs to the confirmations, the color of which should match the color of the entire cabinet. Install door handles and decorative elements: lights, mirrors, etc. Cabinets are made of flammable materials, so interior lights should use low-power 12 W halogen lamps. Under no circumstances use a permanent 220 W power supply - it is very dangerous. The light in the cabinet should be powered from an AC/DC adapter plugged into a socket with double-insulated wires.

Examples and options

When assembling cabinets of various models, there are rules.

Swing

If you are making a swing closet, carefully measure the dimensions of the doors. Vertically, everything must be one millimeter per millimeter, otherwise they will not fit or will not completely cover the internal space. The width of the sashes should be two to three millimeters less than the opening, since they are attached to special elements that also have their own width.

Installation of fastenings for shelves and hooks should be carried out at the base of the cabinet. Place the opposite corners strictly horizontally and check the correct installation using a level. Installation of swing doors is carried out at the end of the assembly. Legs are often attached to the bottom of a hinged cabinet. Kitchen legs are a good choice, since they are low cost and adjustable in height.

Thanks to the legs, all the weight will not go to the bottom, and it will not sag in a short time.

Angular

Installing a corner cabinet, start by attaching metal corners to the walls and ceiling, which in the future will prevent the doors from skewing. Then assemble the frame, mount the guides, install the door and the internal “contents”. Corner cabinets are triangular, L-shaped, trapezoidal and five-walled.