Fastening for a chandelier to the ceiling. How to hang a chandelier correctly and how to attach it

After reading the title of the article, someone will probably say, “why about this?” something like that write, any apartment owner can handle this kind of work himself.” Yes, of course, installation and connection of the chandelier is not considered work highest category difficulties, however, and these processes have specific nuances, on which, by the way, the safety of living in an apartment depends.

The chandelier is connected to electricity, and all electrical appliances, if not installed correctly, installation become source of danger - electric shock or even fire. In addition, this lighting device is often quite massive, and can cause a lot of trouble if it is not securely fixed to the ceiling. Thus, the whole complex of problems related to how to connect a chandelier with your own hands is conditionally divided into two areas - ensuring correct connection it to the electrical network and its reliable and most beautiful placement on the ceiling plane.

find out useful information, from our new article.

What to consider when choosing a chandelier

It is clear that the vast majority of apartment owners choose this lighting device, relying primarily on its external design, so that it matches the overall interior design of the room. However, we must not forget about some other aspects of choice.

• The total light output of the chandelier must correspond to the size and type of room for which it is intended. There are certain standards of illumination, which can be briefly presented as follows:

— For rooms where soft diffused, dim light is required (a typical example is a bedroom), you should proceed from 10 ÷ 12 W/m² of area.

— For rooms with an average level of general illumination (kitchen, bath, toilet) or where it is planned to install additional lighting for specific workplaces (office or children's room) the norm will be from 15 to 20 W/m².

— For rooms with bright lighting (living room), this figure is taken equal to 20 W/m².

In accordance with the calculated power, a lighting device with the required number of horns should be selected. Important nuance– in no case should you increase the overall illumination by using more powerful lamps than allowed by the manufacturer. Material of lampshades, sockets, cross-section internal wiring may not be designed for increased loads, and this will lead to damage to the device or even a fire hazard.

• The dimensions of the lighting fixture must be in harmony with overall dimensions premises. A huge chandelier will look ridiculous in quite cramped room, or, conversely, too small will simply be lost on the ceiling plane of a vast hall. Designers recommend proceeding from the following considerations:

— The optimal diameter of the chandelier can be approximately determined by the formula:

D = ( L+ S)×10

D – diameter of the chandelier in centimeters

L And S – length and width of the room, respectively, in meters.

So, for example, for a room measuring 5 × 3 m the best option there will be a chandelier with a diameter of 80 cm.

• The type of chandelier you choose depends on the height of the room. If the ceilings in the room are low, about 2.5 m, then it is better to give preference to the ceiling version of the lighting fixture, so that there is at least 2.0 ÷ 2.2 m from the floor to it. The suspended option will be appropriate in a room with high ceilings, and here the length of the suspension will be determined only by aesthetic considerations.
• Be sure to compare the type and material of the ceiling with the weight of the chandelier and the method of hanging it - this will be discussed below.
• Chandeliers are most often sold disassembled, so special attention is paid to completeness, matching threads on all collapsible parts, and the integrity of decorative elements. Be sure to check for clear and clear instructions for product installation.
• Unfortunately, the lighting market is literally oversaturated with cheap and low-quality products and outright counterfeits of well-known brands. Such products may be equipped with cartridges made of low-grade plastic, which is not designed for high temperatures. They will give out a counterfeit product due to poor-quality installation of the electrical part, twisted wires, lack of terminal connections, etc. Often you have to independently carry out reconnection of wires, their unsoldering and insulation according to all the rules. This is especially true for “sophisticated” chandeliers with LED additional circuits, power supplies or current transformation, remote control devices, etc. In order not to take on these extra troubles, it is better to choose a product with really high-quality cable and electrical components, ask the store to assemble it and check the functionality of the product.

Prices for chandeliers and ceiling lamps

Chandeliers and ceiling lights

Dealing with the wires on the chandelier and on the ceiling

We will not look specifically at this in this article. complex options with chandeliers stuffed with electronics - their installation in most cases will definitely require the services of an appropriately qualified specialist. But everyone should be able to connect an ordinary chandelier on their own.

First of all, a few theoretical questions in the field of home electrical wiring. As you know, the power supply in our area is organized with a standard voltage of 220 V and a frequency of 50 Hz. Household wiring is carried out through two wires - phase and neutral. If the house has a grounding loop (in modern housing this becomes a necessity and most often, in new buildings this issue is provided for in advance), then a third wire connected to the grounding bus is included in the wiring.

There is a generally accepted color coding for single-phase wires electrical network:

A characteristic nuance is that if the neutral wire is always blue or blue in color, and the grounding contact is yellow-green, then the color of the phase wire can vary:

Often, several phase wires of one or more colors can be assembled in one cable - this is used, among other things, when connecting lighting devices, to switch different modes of their operation:

Ideally, both the chandelier and house wiring should use the same color coding. However, practice shows that in both cases this rule is not always observed. For example, in old houses, aluminum or copper wires in single-color insulation were used for wiring. In this case, you will have to deal with them yourself.

When working with electrical wiring, special attention should be paid to safety measures. It is strictly forbidden to touch bare wires with unprotected hands unless the general power supply is turned off. You must wear shoes with rubber soles. To work near the ceiling, you need to provide a reliable base - an unstable stool or bedside table can lead to loss of balance, falling and injury. For these purposes, the best option would be a stepladder mounted on a rubber mat.

1. So, the simplest option is a cable with two wires coming out of a hole in the ceiling. It is clear that one of them is phase, and the other is zero. According to existing rules, the neutral must go directly to the distribution box, and the phase must be interrupted at the switch. Nevertheless, it doesn’t hurt to check - very often electricians “don’t bother” with these issues.

• To check, you need to have a special device - a phase indicator. Most often it comes in the form of a screwdriver with a transparent body, although modern models may have other designs, including even with indication of the phase voltage value.
• First of all, it is necessary to completely de-energize the room or the entire apartment at the distribution panel. This is necessary in order to thoroughly strip the wires of insulation and oxides to a length of 5 ÷ 8 mm. After stripping, the wires are spread as far apart as possible to prevent short circuits. After this, turn on the machine on the dashboard.
• Then, with the switch in the off position, both wires are checked sequentially. Neither should show the presence of a phase. If there is a phase on one wire, it means the wiring in the house is done incorrectly - the “zero” on the switch, apparently, is interrupted. It is very difficult to change anything in this case - you just need to keep this in mind, taking special care in further work.

• The phase is checked in the same way when the switch is in the on position. As a result, a phase wire will be identified, which can be marked in a certain way (with a marker or colored electrical tape).

2. If a switch with two or more keys is installed in the room, then from the ceiling the holes should be the appropriate number phase wires. The test is carried out in the same way as described above, with each phase marked separately, in accordance with the location of the switch keys.

A similar check should be carried out even if color-coded wiring is installed - simply to eliminate mistakes by the electrician who once installed it.

3. Now - about the cable part of the chandelier itself.

• The easiest way is when the chandelier has one or two or three arms, without dividing them into groups. All wires from the cartridges are assembled into two contact groups - neutral and phase. If there is a ground wire, it is usually attached to the metal body of the lamp.

• In the event that it is necessary to divide the horns with cartridges into two or more groups, then all the blue “zero” wires are connected into one bundle, and the phase wires are divided into several, according to the number of keys on the switch.

Very often on chandeliers this can be seen quite clearly, and such switching will not be difficult.

The simplest case: all the wires are in full view

• In both cases, the bundles of twisted wires should be thoroughly soldered and placed in a screw terminal block or separate spring terminals.

• It is somewhat more difficult to understand when the design of the chandelier does not make it possible to visually understand it internal wiring. However, you can figure it out here too by calling all the outgoing wires using a multitester. To do this, you can sequentially screw an incandescent lamp into the sockets (an energy-saving fluorescent lamp will not help in this case), and experimentally find out which horn is powered from which wire. After this, it will be easy to distribute the horns into groups.

To “ring” hidden wires you will need a multitester

There are other methods for determining the internal wiring of a chandelier, based on calculating the resistance of the circuit with lamps of the same rating screwed into all sockets, but in practice it is probably easier to simply ring each horn.

So, the result of checking the chandelier circuits and fixed wiring in the room should be a clear understanding of the circuit, prepared for switching and marked wires on the ceiling and groups of contacts on the lighting fixture itself.

Video: diagram of connecting a five-arm chandelier to a two-key switch

Mounting a chandelier on the ceiling of a room

If everything has become clear with the electrical part, it is necessary to ensure that the chandelier is securely fastened to the ceiling. The technology of operation depends on the design of the chandelier and the type of ceiling covering.

Hanging a chandelier on a hook

This is an old and proven method of installing chandeliers, which have a special loop, ring or hook for this purpose.

In older multi-story buildings, hanging hooks were installed in ceiling openings during the construction stage. If it’s standing, then there’s less of a problem; however, it doesn’t hurt to still test it for strength. To do this, it is necessary to hang a load with a total mass twice the weight of the chandelier planned for installation. If such a load can be easily withstood, then there should not be any particular concerns.

But what if the old hook is unreliable or its condition does not inspire confidence that it will withstand the load? It's okay, you can install it yourself.

WITH wooden ceiling In principle, there should be no problems - a hook-screw can be easily screwed into it.

There can be various solutions with a concrete floor slab:

— You can hang the hook on a transverse steel rod, which is inserted into the cable channel of the slab. When doing this, be careful not to damage the wiring running there with the rod.

— Another option with an old hole in the ceiling is to insert a hook with a butterfly lock into it. Having passed into the cable channel, the “wings” of this fastening will straighten and create the necessary support, and all that remains is to fix the entire suspension with a washer and nut.

Hook with spring lock-butterfly

— If this option is not possible, for example, in the case where there is no “standard” opening for the hook, it will be necessary to drill a hole in the concrete floor for a plastic dowel, but it is still better - for a metal anchor with a ring or hook.

Before drilling, it would be useful to evaluate the direction of the wiring from the junction box to the outlet on the ceiling, so as not to accidentally break the cable with a drill or break its insulation.

If, when drilling, an internal cavity of the slab is encountered, use a special metal dowel for hollow-core structures – with screwing it in forms a “skirt” that securely holds the fastening element in the ceiling.

After installing any type of hook, it should be tested for load - as described above. It is recommended to then insulate the protruding metal part by wrapping it with electrical tape or putting a heat-shrinkable tube of the appropriate diameter on it, followed by heating.

If the hook is reliable, you can hang the chandelier using the standard mount. Be sure to turn off the general power supply to the room in order to connect the contact part. The wires are connected using terminal connectors - twisting is not allowed, as sparks may occur on them and the insulation will melt. The connection is carried out in full accordance with the wiring diagram described above.

The place of the contact connection of the wires and the suspension on the hook is usually covered with a decorative glass (cap).

After completing the installation, turn on the power supply at the panel, then at the switch to immediately make sure that there is no short circuits. It doesn’t hurt to check with an indicator that there is no phase on the metal body of the chandelier. If everything is normal, then with the switch keys turned off, the necessary lamps are screwed in or inserted into the socket and the practical functionality of all chandelier arms is checked in all switching modes.

After checking, you can begin the final installation of the chandelier - installing shades, hanging all removable decorative parts, etc., according to the assembly instructions attached to the product.

Installing a chandelier on a mounting plate

Many manufactured chandeliers, especially those intended for low rooms, are not hung on hooks, but are installed using screws. fastening elements on a special mounting plate fixed to the ceiling. This greatly improves reliability general installation, since the load is evenly distributed over several attachment points.

The design of the mounting strip can be different - it all depends on the specific model of the chandelier and its weight. The strip may be straight or curved, with brackets to secure the light fixture housing, or with protruding studs or screws.

The set with particularly heavy chandeliers may include cross-shaped strips or in the form of a reinforced I-beam profile.

The strip may have a hole with grommet-lined edges to accommodate wires coming out of the ceiling. You can also place the bar in close proximity to the cable exit point - the body of the installed chandelier will hide both the hole in the ceiling and the wiring connection.

The mounting strip is attached to the ceiling plane different ways, depending on specific conditions. In fact, this is described above, with the only difference that instead of dowels with a ring or hook, ordinary ones are used, with a pressure head “under hide».

Just as when using a hook, the reliability of the fastening under load must be checked.

The fastening must be checked under load - to prevent situations like this

Quite often a situation occurs when placing the dowels too close to the old hole in the ceiling does not ensure reliable installation - the edge of the concrete may crack or crumble. So optimal choice fasteners and installation locations still remain with the direct performer of the work.

Attaching the chandelier itself to the mounting plate may also have its own characteristics. In this case, you may need help - the lamp will have to be held suspended while the cable part is being switched. After the wires are connected, the chandelier body is secured to the bar with decorative nuts or screws.

Further work on performance monitoring and final installation is no different from what was outlined above.

Features of attaching a chandelier to a plasterboard ceiling

By by and large, you should plan the placement of the chandelier even before its installation. In this case, no problems are foreseen - one or several additional metal profiles are provided in advance for attaching the mounting strip or is installed a hook that can then be easily extended using a chain or barbell. A hole is immediately marked in the plasterboard sheet and drilled in the right place for the wires and hook to exit.

But what to do if this issue of hanging a chandelier arose later?

• In the case when the lighting device is of a pendant type, it is impossible to install the hook directly into the gypsum plasterboard - its strength is unlikely to be sufficient for a point load. You can do this as follows:

A hole is drilled in the ceiling with a diameter smaller than the decorative cap of the lamp.

Exactly in the center of this opening, with a long drill installed in a hammer drill, a hole is drilled in the floor slab along the anchor fastening.

An anchor with a long threaded pin is inserted and fixed as far as possible in the hole made, so that the pin extends out beyond the plane of the drywall.

An eye-nut is screwed onto the protruding end of the stud, from which the chandelier itself will later be suspended. The excess hairpin is carefully cut off with a hacksaw.

Spring “butterfly” with hairpin

If there is a void or an old hole in the ceiling - that’s it Also, as when working on regular ceiling, only the fasteners do not have a ring, but a long threaded part, so that it goes out.

• If the chandelier is of a cantilever type, that is, installed on a mounting plate, then much depends on its weight.

— In the case when the total weight of the fixture does not exceed 3–5 kg, the bar can be attached directly to the gypsum fiber board sheet. For this purpose, special dowels for drywall are used - “butterflies” or snails.

Dowels “butterfly” and “snail” for fastening parts to drywall

The former are held as a result of the expansion of the plastic structure under the sheet of drywall when screwing in the self-tapping screw. The second has a different principle of operation - a very high and sharp thread with a large plane of contact with the sheet material creates a reliable connection when screwed in. The “snail” is screwed in completely, flush with the surface of the gypsum plasterboard, in the right place, and in its center there remains a hole into which a regular self-tapping screw can easily fit.

— If the chandelier is heavier, then to attach the mounting strip you will have to resort to the method with anchors with studs. - - as described above. The protruding threaded parts of two or more studs will become fasteners for a rack or cross-shaped console.

All further actions are no different from installing a chandelier on a regular ceiling.

Video: option for attaching a chandelier to a plasterboard ceiling

Prices for various types of anchors

Anchors

Mounting a chandelier on a suspended ceiling

None practical advice By self-installation chandeliers will not be installed on suspended ceilings - this should only be done by craftsmen and exclusively before hanging the ceiling sheet.

Read detailed information about what is important to know in our new article.

To install the chandelier, a mounting platform is prepared in advance and suspended from the floor slab, the lower cut of which should fall at the planned height of the stretched fabric. Based on the location of this embedded platform, craftsmen must cut and properly process the holes themselves, strengthening their edges, through which wires and fasteners will pass.

Attempts to independently cut holes in order to hang a chandelier on an already installed stretch ceiling, using working techniques like plasterboard ceiling, will not lead to anything good. With a probability close to 100%, they are doomed to failure. The deplorable, but logical result of such amateur activity will be the need to completely replace the canvas.

After the ceiling craftsmen have completed the work, leaving the necessary holes for the chandelier and fasteners, reinforced with special grommets, the installation of the lamp is carried out with the utmost care, so as to in no case allow the surface to rupture or puncture.

On a suspended ceiling, it is preferable to use a suspended one so that the lamps are not in close proximity to the canvas. In addition, ordinary incandescent lamps, “halogens” or fluorescent “housekeepers” are not suitable for these purposes - they will quickly ruin the decorative appearance of the ceiling covering. Therefore, in order for the ceiling to retain its attractiveness for as long as possible, only LED models are needed.

Video: example of installing a chandelier on a suspended ceiling

A chandelier is both a lighting fixture and an important decorative element, which is why many of them are quite heavy and have a complex design. Installing a lamp becomes an important stage of repair, because even the safety of the room’s occupants will depend on the reliability of its fastening. To understand how to attach a chandelier to the ceiling correctly and with minimal costs, you need to know what kinds of lamps for rooms there are and how the methods of installing them differ.

Skipping the details of the decorative differences between chandeliers, let’s focus on what is important for the installation process: classification by type of fasteners. Based on this feature, there are two main types of devices:

• ceiling mounted with a hook;
• cantilever, which are mounted on brackets or special strips.

Mounting the chandelier on a hook and on a bar (bracket)

Heavier models belong specifically to the first category, since only a hook can reliably hold massive structures. The same models, which are lighter in weight, are conveniently mounted on different types strips that can be attached to suspended ceiling profiles.

Types of fastenings

How are the different fastenings structurally arranged? Most often the hook is already built into the ceiling, however, if it is not there or it is unreliable, you can make it yourself. There are several types of structures that are used for such purposes, one of which is the collet pin. It consists of a collet, which is practically used as a dowel, and a pin, replacing a self-tapping screw, onto which the hook clings.

Types of collet pins

You can use another option: a metal anchor or a self-tapping hook. When a chandelier is attached to a plasterboard ceiling in this way, the design may also include a chain. There is also a type of hook that is used for hanging light fixtures from plasterboard ceilings and is called “butterfly” for its drop-down design, which prevents the fastener from falling out of the hole in the profile.

Ceiling hook for chandelier

As for the mounting strips, they are attached using dowels and screws. Long screws can also be used. Cantilever chandelier models are often mounted using a butterfly dowel, which opens when secured with a self-tapping screw and can be either metal or plastic.

Dowel "butterfly"

Stages of installing a chandelier on a hook

When thinking about how to attach a chandelier to the ceiling with an already installed hook, first of all check its strength: hang a load of the same weight as the lamp you have chosen, or pull it strongly. An unreliable hook that falls out or becomes loose must be replaced. It is important to remember that fasteners for heavy chandeliers are mounted only on the main ceiling, since no type hanging plasterboard will not withstand such a load. To install the collet, a hole is drilled with a hammer drill into which the fastener is inserted. A pin is screwed into the collet, onto which the anchor hook is hung, or it is screwed directly into the collet.

Mounting the collet on the ceiling

A hole in the drywall is also needed to drive a metal anchor into concrete base or screwing a self-tapping hook into a wooden base. To overcome the distance separating the base ceiling from the suspended ceiling, a chain is used: it is hung on a hook and the chandelier itself is attached to it.

As for light fixtures that are mounted on plasterboard ceiling profiles, fastening is carried out as follows: a butterfly hook is inserted into the hole in the plasterboard, which corresponds to the hole in the ceiling frame profile, which automatically opens and locks.

The principle of “opening” and adopting a T-shape also applies to “butterfly” dowels on which console lamps are mounted. At least two of these dowels are needed. They are inserted into holes in the ceiling and profile and secured with a self-tapping screw, after which they are automatically fixed.

Butterfly hook installation

Mounting panel installation

Such fasteners are mounted on a plasterboard ceiling, which is not designed for heavy loads. Therefore, in order not to damage it, you need to strengthen the part of the coating where the lamp will hang. Even at the stage of installing the frame, you should decide how to attach the chandelier to the ceiling and use one of the strengthening options. For example, you can install two parallel profiles (at the same distance from each other as the holes in the plank) or build a square or rectangle from them (again, in accordance with the dimensions of the chandelier fasteners).

First, you need to correctly mark the locations for the holes in the ceiling: they must coincide with the locations for the screws on the plank. Dowels are inserted into the ceiling holes, to which the plank is screwed. In addition, there may be a hook in the ceiling that you do not need, but you should not dismantle it: if you change the chandelier, it may still be useful to you. The lamp itself is attached to the bar using screws.

Attaching the chandelier strip

There is also a very simple option that can be used for light chandeliers small sizes. It consists of attaching the strip to the profiles with long self-tapping screws. For heavier structures, as already mentioned, it is possible to mount only on the main ceiling, concrete or wood.

So, how to hang a chandelier from the ceiling? First you need to evaluate the lamp itself: its weight, type of mounting, size. Moreover, this must be done before installing the suspended ceiling, so that it is possible, if necessary, to install the necessary reinforcing structures.

Then the necessary preparatory work is carried out, the type of fastening material is determined and installation is carried out sequentially. When the fasteners are installed, you can connect the lamp to the electrical network.

The question “How to hang a chandelier correctly?” can be divided into two parts: connecting the chandelier to the electrical network and directly mounting the chandelier on the ceiling. Connecting a chandelier requires knowledge of electrical basics, but figuring it out is not very difficult.

To install the chandelier with your own hands, you will need the following tools:

• stepladder or table;
• electric drill (perforator);
• pliers with insulated handles;
• indicator screwdriver;
• wire cutters;
• a Phillips screwdriver with a thin blade;
• insulating tape;
• mounting block for clamping wires.

Modern chandeliers have two types of mounts. The first is a loop that clings to a hook in the ceiling. In this case, the place of suspension is covered with a decorative overlay - a cup.

Second option - mounting plate, which is fixed on the ceiling and to which the chandelier is then attached. Here the decorative overlay is also a fastening element.

Hanging on a hook

A hanging hook is the simplest option for attaching a chandelier. At first need to make a hole in the ceiling next to the wires coming out of it, with a diameter of at least 8 mm. To do this, use an impact drill or hammer drill.

It is recommended to install the hook using anchor systems. There are different types of anchors.

If the chandelier is small, weighing 1-1.5 kg, you can use a regular hook with a screw thread, which is screwed into a plastic plug - dowel. For heavier chandeliers, expansion metal anchors are required, with a length of 50 mm and a cross-section of 10 mm.

When using plastic dowels, it is better to take corrugated ones, with a length of 40 mm. Smooth dowels do not hold well in the slab. After fixing the dowel, a hook is screwed into it, or an expansion anchor is installed. The hook should be insulated with two layers of electrical tape.

Next, the chandelier wires need to be connected to the wires coming from the switch using a special block with clamping bolts - a terminal block. To tighten the bolts you will need a slotted screwdriver with a narrow blade. This block is included with the chandelier. If it is not there, the wires are twisted and wrapped with insulating tape.

Then you need to move the decorative cup close to the ceiling, moving it along the tubular base of the chandelier, and fix it. The decorative cover will hide the electrical wiring terminals and wire connections. The disadvantage of this type of fastening is that sometimes the height of the decorative cup is not enough, and an unsightly gap remains between it and the ceiling. Before fixing the decorative cup, you need to check the quality of the chandelier connection.

Under no circumstances should the hook be attached to sheets of drywall, as it may not support the weight of the chandelier. When installing a ceiling made of plasterboard or suspended ceiling, you need to leave a hole in it for the hook to come out along with the wires.

If the chandelier is without a hook

The process of attaching a chandelier using a metal strip is somewhat more complicated. In this case, the metal bar takes on the entire load. If there is a hook from an old chandelier in the ceiling, it should be removed.

The plank is applied to the ceiling in the right place and the drilling points for the dowels are marked with a pencil. Then holes are drilled in the ceiling and dowels are fixed in them. Next, mounting bolts are inserted into the bar at a distance equal to the distance between the holes for mounting on the decorative box of the chandelier, and secured with nuts. After this, the plank is placed on the ceiling and secured with self-tapping screws.

It is better to do the next stage of work together, since it will not work alone. Need to put decorative box to the bar so that the mounting bolts fit into the holes on the box, and before that connect the wires of the chandelier and the switch.

One person should hold the chandelier and the other should connect the wires, since it is impossible to do this with one hand. After the chandelier is connected and the bolts of the strip coincide with the holes of the box, it is pressed to the ceiling and secured with decorative nuts. All connecting wiring is hidden under a decorative box.

When installing suspended ceilings, you need to prepare in advance the basis for attaching the mounting strip at the ceiling level. This can be a simple wooden block of the required height. The plank is attached to the block with ordinary self-tapping screws.

How to hang a chandelier on plasterboard: if the ceiling is made of plasterboard, metal dowels that can withstand a load of up to 15 kg, or butterfly-shaped dowels are used as fastenings for the strip.

Connection diagram

First of all, you need to turn off the electricity using the circuit breaker located in the electrical panel on the landing. The absence of voltage is checked with an indicator screwdriver.

There should be three wires on the ceiling: one is “zero”, the other two are “phase”. The insulation is removed from the wires; the length of the exposed tip should be approximately 3-4 cm. Separate the wires in different directions to avoid short circuits.

Then you need to turn on the electricity again to determine which of the wires are phase. To do this, touch each of the wires with an indicator screwdriver. If the wire is a “phase”, then the indicator will light up; if the indicator is not lit, then it is “zero”. It is advisable to mark “zero” with electrical tape. If you have a voltmeter available, it is better to use it, because working under voltage is still dangerous.

IN modern houses the wires are color-coded: the blue wire is “zero”, the brown wire is “phase”, maybe even yellow is grounding. The chandelier should be accompanied by instructions with recommendations for its installation. If it states that the design of the lamp involves grounding, this must be taken into account.

The phase wires are led out to the switch, the “zero” goes into the installation box.

If the switch is single-key, you first need to connect the wiring in the chandelier itself. The blue ones from each light bulb are connected to other blue ones, the brown ones to the brown ones. The “zero” wire from the ceiling is connected to the “zero” wire from the chandelier. The phase wires from the ceiling and the chandelier are also connected to each other.

If there is no color marking, then you can arbitrarily connect one wire from each light bulb and similarly connect the remaining wires together. Lead one connection to the “neutral” wire on the ceiling, the other to the phase.

You should know that you cannot twist copper and aluminum wires together. An electron pair from these two metals causes destruction of the contact. A special block is used to connect such wires.

Connecting a chandelier to a double switch

With a two-key switch, you need to make sure that when you turn on one key, only part of the lamps light up, when you turn on the second, the rest, and when you turn on both keys, all the lamps come on together.
If there are only two lampshades, connecting a chandelier with 3 wires is carried out in the same way: “zero” is connected to “zero”, both phases are connected to each other.

The phases of the chandelier wires, if they do not have markings, are determined as follows: the wires are plugged in pairs into the socket, and there is no need to touch the third wire. You need to find a position for the wires such that one of them is constantly in the socket, and when you connect one or the other of the remaining two, first one or the other lamp lights up. Then the wire that is always in the socket will be “zero”, the other two will be phase wires.

If there are several light bulbs, you need to divide them into two groups: which ones will turn on from the first switch key and which ones from the second. Then take one identical wire from each light bulb (phase or “zero”) and connect them together.

Divide the remaining wires into two parts depending on the designated groups and also connect them together - you get two twists. A twist containing wires from all the light bulbs is connected to the “zero” wire. The other two twists are separately connected to the two phase wires.

To ensure reliable connection of wires from the chandelier and wires coming from the ceiling, it is better to use terminal blocks not with screws, but with clamps. They are suitable for both aluminum and copper wires.

Installing a new chandelier in a room is a significant event. Before you hang a chandelier on the ceiling in your apartment, you need to assemble it correctly. Fortunately, the design of most chandeliers is not that complicated, so let's move on to the next part of the preparatory work.

Connecting wires

Let's start with the most basic. To get started, answer the questions:

• How many wires come out of the ceiling?
• How many keys does the switch have?

If there are only 2 wires, then forget about the possibility of turning on different parts chandeliers two-button switch. Without installing the third wire, nothing will work. This means that all the wires in the chandelier are collected in bundles a certain color. If 3 wires are connected to the lamp, and you do not need the light to turn on at the same time, then in the chandelier, the wires going to the socket thread and the ground wire are collected in one bundle, while the others are divided into 2 groups and are also twisted into bundles.

Poor contact will not only lead to heating of the wire, but can also cause premature failure of the housekeeper.

To work you will need a simple tool:

1. Pliers.
2. Small screwdriver.
3. Battery-powered indicator screwdriver.
4. Terminal block.
5. Open-end wrench 12.

The need for a key arises when assembling a chandelier. An indicator screwdriver will be needed to determine where the wire is connected. Take it in your hands, and the moment you touch the tip of the screwdriver and its upper part, it should light up - this means that the device is working. Now, holding the top edge of the screwdriver, touch the tip to the threads (or side contact) in the socket. With your free hand, touch the wires coming out of this socket. When you touch one of them, the indicator should light up. Wires of the same color will be “ground”.

Insert the separated bundles of wires into the terminal block of your choice and securely fasten it there.

Hanging a chandelier

Let's consider two main methods.

1. On a hook.
2. On the mounting plate.

Hook

This used to be the most common method, but is now becoming a thing of the past. Nevertheless, there are still many versions of chandeliers with this type of mount available.

Some craftsmen solved this problem in their own way - they replaced the plastic hook with a homemade hook made from a welding electrode.

The chandelier comes with a special mounting strip, which must be properly prepared before installing it on the ceiling. Fasten the screws to it with nuts so that their heads are in the inside of the bar, just do not clamp them. Insert strip with inside bowls into the chandelier in the same way as it will later be installed, tightening the decorative nuts until they stop - the bar should be flush with the edges of the chandelier bowl, or slightly below it.

After checking, firmly tighten the screws in the bar so that they do not turn, otherwise removing the chandelier can be a big problem. Place the strip against the ceiling where it will be installed and make marks on the ceiling through the holes. With the strip out of the way, drill into the concrete base of the ceiling and insert the dowels. After this, the plank is attached to the ceiling, and the chandelier itself is attached to it. If the base of the ceiling is wooden, then the plank is attached to it with wood screws.

Electrical connection

When the switch contacts are open, there should be no voltage on the wires.

This means that when you touch the wires with an indicator screwdriver, it should not light up. In this case, a screwdriver that operates without batteries will give a more accurate result. After turning on the power, the indicator should show the presence of voltage on two wires. The remaining one is the “ground”, which should be connected to the common beam of the chandelier. If this is not the case in your case, then this means that the switch turns off not the phase, but the ground. If you have incandescent lamps or LED lamps connected, you can leave it that way; this connection is not suitable for housekeepers, as they may blink (this was discussed above).

Do not install housekeepers under any circumstances if the chandelier is connected via a dimmer!

Connecting a chandelier with a power supply

Often people try to increase the brightness of the glow by replacing standard lamps with more powerful ones, as a result of which the chandelier stops functioning.

To prevent the transformer from breaking down, monitor the total consumption of the lamps - it should be lower than the output power of this device.

If your chandelier has halogen bulbs, then most often they are designed for a 12 V power supply. In this case, the power supply is connected through a step-down transformer, on which the voltage at the outputs is always written. Where the voltage is indicated as 220V, we connect it to the network, and the contacts marked 12V are connected to the light bulbs.

When connected directly, the bulbs must be rated at 220V. Otherwise, halogen lamps designed to operate through a transformer will explode and shards of glass will fly throughout the room.

All wires must be carefully insulated.

Mounting to concrete ceiling

In order to secure the fastening strip to a concrete ceiling, you need to attach it to the intended mounting location and make marks on the ceiling where the holes will be drilled. If the floor is made of hollow slabs, then you need to check the thickness of the concrete in the place where the hole will be drilled, since it may happen that the dowel will have nothing to hold onto. You may have to step aside or position the bar differently. If nothing can be changed, you can use anchors, or lead a wooden strip into the cavity of the slab and screw the strip to it with screws. To complete this job you will need:

1. Hammer drill (or impact drill).
2. Pobedite drill, according to the diameter of the dowel.
3. Screwdriver (screwdriver/drill).
4. Dowels (anchors or screws).

Before you start drilling, make sure that dust and sand do not get into the hammer drill chuck. For this purpose, you can pull a disposable cup or half a rubber ball over the drill, and then drill.

Depending on the fastening method you choose, secure the bar securely, but do not overdo it as it can bend if you press too hard.

On a plasterboard ceiling

What difficulties may arise when installing a chandelier on a plasterboard ceiling? The point is that it is important how appearance plasterboard ceiling and mechanical strength installed structures.

You need to decide in advance on the choice of chandelier, and determine how it will be fixed. Let's consider the main recommendations:

1. The place on the ceiling where the heavy chandelier will be located must be additionally reinforced with a metal profile. This needs to be taken care of when making the frame of the ceiling structure.
2. To attach a small chandelier directly to drywall, you need to buy fasteners (folding spring dowels, butterflies). There is no need to strengthen anything.

During work, it is important to follow safety precautions - ensure safe movement under the ceiling and de-energize the electrical system.

If it is not possible to turn off the power to the room, then you need to work with rubber gloves as an electrician and use a good quality tool (nippers and pliers must have intact handles).

We attach the chandelier to the plasterboard ceiling

Drywall has strong mechanical properties, and for this reason the installation is carried out directly to the material itself. But this method has limitations.

1. Because plasterboard sheet can withstand a load weighing up to 6 kg per square meter, then, given this feature, when purchasing, you should give preference to chandeliers that have a relatively light weight.
2. It must be taken into account that deformation of the plasterboard ceiling may occur during operation of the device, for example, when replacing a lamp or if you accidentally catch the chandelier with your hand. Therefore, in order to preserve the attractive appearance of a plasterboard ceiling for a long time, it is not recommended to repeatedly change the chandelier, especially not to make new ones next to the old holes.

First, consider the option of mounting a hanging chandelier. The first step is to drill a hole in the drywall (for the selected fastener) and insert a spring dowel or butterfly - this is where the chandelier will be suspended from the ceiling.

The spring dowel must be tightened with a nut, and the butterfly must be tightened with a self-tapping screw (there should be a click). The dowel and butterfly must be equipped with a pin or hook. After this, you can hang the chandelier on the hook and connect the wiring.

Holes are made at the designated points, as in the case of a hanging chandelier, but there was a hook, and here we will use butterfly dowels, to which the strip will be attached with self-tapping screws. Now the most interesting part - holding the chandelier under the ceiling, you need to connect the wiring, and only after that it will be possible to fix the chandelier.

It is extremely inconvenient to do this work alone, so you need someone who will hold the chandelier until you finish working with the electrical wiring. If there is nowhere to wait for help, then make a small hook and temporarily hang the chandelier on it so as not to scratch it.

When installing a stretch ceiling, you should take care in advance about what kind of chandelier or lamp will be on the ceiling, and what kind of mount for the lighting device you need to use. This is important to take note of, because the stretched material is not the basis for fastening, and if the integrity of the film is compromised, the fabric will simply tear.

How to choose the right chandelier

It is important to pay attention to the choice of chandelier so that it does not spoil the expensive ceiling covering. In this case, you need to consider what lamps will be used. For example, it is better to purchase a chandelier with energy-saving lamps, since they heat up less during operation. If halogen or incandescent lamps are used, they should be hidden in the lampshade and not directed at the ceiling, but to the side.

If you purchased a chandelier with sockets for ordinary incandescent lamps, then it is better to screw in housekeepers or LED bulbs instead. It is important to know that if the chandeliers are overhead with a thin metal base, then adjoining the suspended ceiling in a heated state from incandescent lamps can lead to its deformation.

You also need to make sure that the base of the lighting fixture, which covers the fastener, has no sharp edges and will not tear the film.

We attach it to the suspended ceiling

The most common and reliable way installation is fastening with a hook. But this method is only suitable for hanging chandeliers.

• if the base is under suspended ceiling– reinforced concrete slabs, and the hook has already been installed by the builders, then it is necessary to determine whether it is installed at a sufficient height;
• if the location of the hook may not suit you, then using a dowel or anchor you can install the hook yourself by cutting off the old fasteners with a grinder;
• Another method is to install a wooden embed in the place where there will be a hole for installation in the suspended ceiling, and a hook is attached directly to it.

You need to know at what distance from the main ceiling the suspended ceiling will be located, and also lead the ends of the electrical wire to the installation site.

After the stretch ceiling fabric is stretched, where the hook is located, you need to glue a thermal ring, inside of which a hole is cut for the wires to exit, and then the chandelier is attached. This happens in this way: the chandelier must be hung on a hook, the wires must be connected, and the mounting location must be covered with a lamp cap.

The chandelier can be mounted on a strip or mounting plate.

Most lighting fixtures include special fasteners - metallic profile with screws (the mounting plate mentioned earlier). It is attached to the main ceiling, and the chandelier on top of the stretch ceiling with screws using decorative nuts.

Attaching the chandelier to a suspended ceiling also involves installing a wooden block to the main ceiling, the length of which should not reach the stretch ceiling by almost 1–2 cm. Otherwise, the block will protrude and over time may tear the film of the stretch ceiling. Next, the block should be attached to the ceiling using self-tapping screws and dowels. And when using a wooden block, it is also necessary to make a hole, reinforcing it with a thermal ring.

The mounting strip is attached to the block without going beyond the hole. Then the base of the lighting fixture is attached to the plate. Next, the holes in the base need to be connected to studs (or screws) and tightened with nuts.

In some cases, instead of a wooden block, a thick one is used as a base. moisture resistant plywood with attached metal legs.

Video: installing a chandelier on a suspended ceiling

Mounting a chandelier on a cross-shaped bar

This type of fastening is intended mainly for heavy chandeliers with a wide base. Due to the fact that the mounting holes are spaced apart, it will be impossible to secure the chandelier within the hole. To do this, a wooden block the size of the cross is again attached to the main ceiling as a base. It is necessary to carefully cut five holes in the stretch ceiling fabric and reinforce them with thermal rings: one large hole to remove electric wires and connect the power, and the other four are smaller. Instead of small-diameter thermal rings where self-tapping screws are screwed in, you can use pieces of plastic that are glued to the stretch ceiling. This procedure must be done, otherwise the film where the hole is made will tear.

When the wires are connected, you can hang the chandelier on the crosspiece and secure it with nuts.

Video: installing a chandelier on cross-shaped strips

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