How far can a toilet be attributed to the riser? Moving the toilet from the riser: to a minimum and long distance

You can move the toilet some distance from the riser. However, this seemingly simple event has many nuances on which the further use of the equipment depends. Plumbers warn that longer distance the sewer riser will have to overcome sewage, the higher the risk of blockage. Some “masters” argue that this is not so, because theoretically, the pollution will “get” to the goal in any case. This is true, but there are much more opportunities to “stay in place” on a long journey. Another problem is the appearance of an unpleasant sewer smell in the room. It is associated with excessive vacuum, which is inevitable in sewer pipes that are too long. In this case, each flush will be accompanied by the suction of water from all nearby plumbing fixtures and the breakdown of their water seals. In addition to odors from the sewer, there will also be unpleasant gurgling sounds. To avoid the problems described above, you should follow the recommendations of the current SNIP.

The document prescribes moving the toilet no more than 1.5 m from the sewer riser. In addition to the “correct” removal, you also need to observe the required slope under which the pipeline should be laid. For parts with a diameter of 100 mm, the slope should be 2 cm per meter. For elements with a diameter of 50 mm, the slope cannot be less than 3 cm per meter. These recommendations should be strictly followed, otherwise problems with blockages cannot be avoided. Reducing the recommended parameters will reduce the speed of fluid movement, which will lead to blockages. Increasing the slope, on the other hand, will cause the water to move too quickly. It will not have time to capture solid contaminants, which will begin to accumulate in the pipe and, over time, completely block it. It turns out that most often, when moving the toilet to another place, it is necessary to lift it in order to provide the necessary slope for the pipes. In this case, depending on the transfer distance, a fairly decent amount of lift can be obtained. In addition, the pipe connecting the riser and the toilet will also have to be masked somehow. Considering that its diameter is quite large, you may need to raise the floor or equip a small podium specifically for plumbing equipment.

Another one important detail: When laying a new pipeline, right angles must be avoided. If you can’t do without them, proceed as follows: install two 45° angles instead of one 90°. Otherwise, the likelihood of blockages in the pipe increases sharply. All the above requirements are mandatory when moving the toilet. However, even they do not work if it is necessary to move the equipment to a distance greater than that specified in SNIP, or its recommendations turn out to be difficult to implement. There is a solution in this case too.

The first is moving the riser itself, which is extremely troublesome. The second is the use of special equipment that is intended for forced sewerage.

You will need

• - 45 degree toilet outlet;
• - bell;
• - fan pipe;
• - corner bends;
• - fastening elements;
• - silicone sealant.

Instructions

Remove from the room all unnecessary objects, furniture, and plumbing fixtures that may interfere with work. Assemble together the elements of the supply elbow - these are two 90' corner bends made of polyvinyl chloride with a diameter of 110 mm, a 45' toilet bend with a seal for the outlet, a section of a waste pipe with a socket, the diameter of which is 110 mm. It can be used as an extension for the transition elbow, which makes it possible to move the toilet more freely. This process is not easy - you need to achieve the tightest possible connection of the pipes.

Once the fitting is complete, make marks on the bends using felt-tip pens or a simple pencil at the junction lines. This will make it easier to assemble the structure later. Now disassemble the knee and treat the rubber cuffs that are included in the joints with silicone grease. Install them in their original place, and then reassemble the outlet structure. Connect its outlet to the outlet of the toilet, and connect the opposite end to the waste pipe that is part of the riser structure.

Having completed these steps, proceed to adjust the outlet height. Make sure that the structure has a uniform slope from the toilet to the riser with an angle of more than two degrees. There are holes in the toilet pedestal - through them, use a marker to mark the points at which the toilet will be fixed after the final transfer to a new location.

Install cistern in place. Make sure that it does not rest against the wall. In the marks made on the floor, drill holes into which the dowels will need to be inserted. This way the toilet will be secured in place. This completes the work on reinstalling the toilet - all that remains is to bring other furnishings into the room.

Video on the topic

note

Prepare everything necessary tools and materials in advance. Work to move the toilet should be carried out as soon as possible - the smell is far from pleasant. There is nothing good if work is delayed due to running around the shops in search of the right part,

Helpful advice

To fit the structure as best as possible, remove the rubber sealing gaskets from both the corner elbows and the sockets. It is advisable to ensure that the end of the elbow coincides exactly with the outlet of the toilet being installed in the new location. You need to do the same with connecting to fan pipe. This is best achieved by pulling out and pushing in the connecting elements. When performing such actions, the required length of the straight section is selected.

Is it possible to move the toilet from its usual place to a more convenient one? How to do it? What materials will be needed for the operation and what nuances should be taken into account?

Let's try to figure it out.

Why is this necessary?

There can be quite a few reasons for transfer:

• Changing the layout of the toilet. If the wall is moved, the old location of the toilet may be inconvenient - too close to the wall or, conversely, not optimal in terms of space utilization.
• to another, having different dimensions . If the old toilet was perfectly placed across the combined bathroom, and the new one can only be positioned along it, obviously, the sewer system will also have to be redone to accommodate it.
• Purchasing new furniture for the bathroom, washing machine, baths and so on.

Regardless of the motivation, the conclusions in all cases are the same: the old toilet should be removed as intact as possible and, after redoing the sewerage system (and, sometimes, the water supply system), it should be reinstalled at another point in the room.

Advice: in general, pull a rigid liner to the point of the new location of the toilet bowl cold water rarely needed.
If the toilet is moved within the same room, it is often much easier to buy a long flexible hose.

Moving the toilet

Simple case

The toilet unfolds or is moved to a small distance, about a dozen or so centimeters.

Dismantling

Dismantling a toilet greatly depends on the installation method.

If the toilet was mounted on standard fasteners, and its outlet is connected to the sewer with a standard rubber cuff, everything is simple:

1. Remove the screws securing the toilet to the floor;
2. Pushing the toilet towards you strictly along the axis of the socket sewer pipe, pull the toilet outlet out of it.

In this case, it is not even necessary to turn off the water to the tank.

If the toilet is mounted on glue or cement, and its outlet is covered with the same cement in a cast iron pipe, you will have to tinker:

1. Armed with a strong screwdriver or a narrow chisel, carefully remove the putty from the space between the sewer pipe and the toilet outlet. Be very careful: a bad move and you'll have to go get a new toilet.

1. Once the outlet is released, we will need to loosen the toilet on the floor. A wide chisel is carefully driven, with little force, one at a time from different sides under the base of the toilet. Sooner or later he will swing, announcing that the job is done.
2. Then, again, we move the toilet towards ourselves, pulling its outlet out of the sewer socket strictly along its axis. If it gets stuck, do not pull harder, but slightly rock the toilet from side to side. Of course, before doing this, it is better to turn off the water to the tank and drain the water.

Installation at a new location

Since the distance to the sewerage and water supply will be small, we will not need to remodel the sewerage system or build up water pipe.

If old flexible liner is in good condition - we won’t touch it. If it leaks or is not long enough, we simply replace it with an analogue one. The operation is simple and, I think, does not require a separate description.

We will connect the toilet to the sewer with corrugation. This corrugated pipe, in general, it has on both sides rubber seals; but it would be a good idea to stock up on silicone.

In addition, you will need a toilet mounting kit.

Important: fasteners must be equipped with plastic washers.
Steel screws should not be pressed directly onto the earthenware.

1. Clean the toilet outlet and sewer pipe from debris and wipe dry.
2. Mark new holes in the floor for the toilet mountings and drill them. If there is a tile on top, first pass it with a drill through a tile of a slightly larger diameter.
3. Place the corrugation on the toilet outlet, after applying sealant.
4. Pull the toilet towards the floor. We need him to stop wobbling, nothing more. Seal the gaps between the base and the tiles cement mortar– this will prevent the lateral force from splitting the base of the toilet, creating additional support for it.
5. Insert the corrugation into the socket - again on the sealant.
6. Use it.

Difficult case

We have already agreed that within small room It is easier to connect water with a long flexible hose. Moving the toilet to a distance greater than the length of the corrugation will be accompanied by alteration of the sewer system.

Dismantling and installation will be the same; in order to expand the sewer system, a plastic pipe with a diameter of 110 mm is used. The length and selection of corners depend only on the new position of the toilet.

Assembly plastic sewer extremely simple. It is attached to the wall with clamps or laid directly on the floor.

As always, there are a few subtleties.

• To insert a plastic pipe into a cast iron socket, use a sealing cuff. It is better to place it on silicone sealant, first of all, thoroughly coating its joint with cast iron pipe.
WITH modern materials This option will not create problems either.

Conclusion

I think the article answered the question of whether the toilet can be moved. Can; Moreover, there are no special difficulties in this.

Good luck with the renovation!

In standard apartments the bathroom occupies small area. Owners of premises resort to various tricks so that every centimeter of space is used with maximum benefit. Therefore, it is not surprising that as a result of design research there is a need to move the toilet from the riser.

This is not an easy event. The easiest way is to contact plumbing specialists who probably know how to move the toilet to another place. But to do this, you will have to adapt to their work schedule and change your plans. And perhaps even refuse important events. Despite the complexity of the matter, you can do it on your own. The main thing is to understand the essence of the issue and correctly perform all the necessary work.

Moving the toilet: possible risks

At first glance, there is nothing simpler than moving the toilet to another place, fixing it there and starting to fully use it. But moving the plumbing unit away from the riser provokes an elongation of the sewer pipes approaching it. Which, in turn, causes excessive vacuum during flushing and failure of the water seal in other plumbing fixtures. A this process always accompanied by gurgling sounds and unpleasant sewer odors.

Also, moving the toilet away from the riser often causes blockages. Since the length of the transport pipes increases, automatically lengthening the path of sewage. Theoretically, at correct installation pipes and, regardless of their length, the drains in any case reach the outlet into the general sewer system. But, as practice shows, the longer the pipes, the higher the likelihood of blockages. According to the requirements of SNiP, the plumbing fixture must be installed no further than one and a half meters from the riser. This is the only way to avoid the above problems.

An important indicator when moving a toilet to another place is maintaining the slope of the sewer pipes. According to the rules, if the diameter of the parts is 100 mm, the slope should be 2 cm per meter. With a diameter of 50 mm, the slope is 3 or more centimeters per meter. If these rules are not followed, the speed of wastewater transportation is reduced and blockages may occur.

Sometimes, to comply with the rule for tilting pipes, it is necessary to install a plumbing fixture on a pedestal or mount a wall-hung toilet. Both options have a place, but the second also requires the installation of a box on the wall for installation and concealment of water and waste pipes. Therefore, the easiest way is to use the first option - installing the equipment on a pedestal.

And one more important point. If you want to minimize the likelihood of blockages, then the transport sewer channel from the toilet to the riser should be laid in a straight line and not have right angle turns. If it is impossible to lay the pipeline in such a way, two corner pipes of 45 0 are installed in places of sharp bends of 90 0.

How to move a toilet: complex and simple methods

Optimizing space in the bathroom requires moving equipment. Within the rules and without harsh consequences, it can be moved to different distances (within one and a half meters) and rotated. Depending on the transfer distance, a simple and a complex method are distinguished.

Easy way

It involves moving the toilet to the side a short distance - 15 - 20 cm. To do this, you need to carefully dismantle the old device. Since, if it is placed on glue or mortar, and the outlet neck is coated with cement, one careless movement can cause cracks to appear on the toilet. Therefore, after turning off the water, carefully and carefully:

• we clear the space between the bell and the outlet from the layer of putty using a narrow chisel and a strong screwdriver;
• With a little effort we try to loosen the toilet. This may require the help of a wide chisel - it must be carefully hammered in different places under the base of the bowl. We loosen it until the equipment begins to swing freely;
• lift the toilet. Having grabbed the rim of the device’s bowl with our hands, we first direct the efforts towards ourselves, and then, also carefully, along the axis of the sewer pipe, we try to remove the outlet bell from it. If the device is stuck, there is no need to apply much force, as you may break the toilet. It is better to return to the second point of the instructions and rock the device again.

If your device is installed on standard fasteners and connected to the pipe via a rubber cuff, you are very lucky. Since to dismantle it, it is enough to unscrew the standard fastenings to the floor and remove the outlet by pushing the device towards you and turning it along the axis of the pipe.

After dismantling the device, you can begin preparing for its installation in a new location. We inspect the existing flexible connection for integrity and, if necessary, replace it with a new corrugation. The design of the corrugation assumes the presence of sealing rubber rings at both ends. But to avoid the possibility of leaks, you should still use silicone sealant. You should also take care of special fasteners; they are steel and equipped with plastic washers. Then we proceed to install the device:

• Mark the mounting points on the floor with a pencil. We drill holes: if the floor is concrete, we use a drill with pobedit coating, if it is tile, we take a special drill of a larger diameter than the fasteners;
• we clean the toilet outlet and socket from dirt, the old layer of cement, dust and other deposits, and wipe them dry;
• Apply silicone sealant to the sealing ring on one side of the corrugation and pull it onto the toilet flare;
• install and secure the device using prepared screws with plastic washers. Tighten carefully;
• to create additional support, coat the resulting gaps between the floor and the base with cement;
• to complete the installation, lubricate the sealing ring on the other side of the corrugation with sealant, and insert the corrugation into the socket of the sewer pipe.

A difficult option, or how to move the toilet from the riser to 30 centimeters or more

If, according to the design project, it is necessary to move the toilet to a greater distance than the length of the corrugation allows, then you will have to rework the sewer system. Dismantling and subsequent installation is carried out according to the same scheme as in the first option. The differences lie in the need to expand the sewer pipeline. Most often, pipes of 110 mm are taken for this event. Length and number of elements, as well as configuration connecting parts directly depends on the new location of the plumbing fixture. Pad plastic pipes They are carried out either on the floor, or they are mounted to the wall using special clamps.

What should you pay attention to?

To lay the sewer system at the floor level, it is necessary to remove the outlet to the toilet from the tee or cross. With plastic pipes everything is simple (everything can be easily removed and cleaned). If the parts are cast iron, you will have to resort to help gas burner or a blowtorch to destroy the sealant and cement putty through heating. After which you can easily remove the pipe from the socket.

It is recommended to start laying a new pipeline from the riser, observing the slope rules. Installation of plastic pipes in a cast iron socket involves the use of a special sealing collar. For better sealing, lubricate its joint with silicone glue.

The easiest way to connect to a new pipeline is to use a corrugated pipe, providing free access to it to monitor its integrity. Instead of corrugation, you can install a special adapter pipe, which will provide a more durable connection.

It is human nature to crave comfort. He tries to improve his home, making it even more cozy and comfortable. Very often, such changes affect one of the most important places in every home - the bathroom. It has a small area on which homeowners want to place as many useful things as possible, so they strive to use every free centimeter. The result of design research is often the removal of the toilet from the riser, a difficult and responsible undertaking. How to do all the work correctly? Let's figure it out.

At first glance, moving the toilet bowl some distance from the sewer pipe does not pose any problems. However, it is not. Experts warn that the further the equipment is installed, the longer the distance the sewage will have to travel. Theoretically, they will “get” to the goal in any case, but the likelihood of blockages increases many times over. Another problem may be the risk of severe vacuum in excessively long pipes. In this case, with each flush, it will suck water from nearby equipment, breaking the water seal. The process is accompanied by loud gurgling sounds and unpleasant sewer odors.

A twisted connection can cause frequent blockages

To avoid such problems, you should strictly follow the requirements of the current SNIP. He does not recommend moving the device more than 1.5 m from the riser. A certain slope must be observed under which the pipe is laid. It is 2 cm per meter. This value is established for pipes with a diameter of 100 mm. If the diameter of the part is 50 mm, the slope should be 3 cm per meter. Increasing the recommended settings will cause the water to drain too quickly, without capturing solid contaminants that may accumulate in the pipe. Reducing the slope will reduce the fluid velocity, which can also lead to clogs.

Move the toilet – often only decision to optimize space in the bathroom

It turns out that the new place will have to be raised. Depending on the distance from the riser, this can be a decent amount. In addition, do not forget about the pipe leading to the equipment; it will need to be disguised in some way. Given the diameter, it may be necessary to raise the floor to a significant height or equip a special podium. Another nuance: lay a new pipeline without right angles. If this is not possible, instead of one 90° angle, make two 45° angles. Otherwise, the risk of blockages increases sharply.

To ensure the required slope, you will have to climb

Despite the fact that all the above requirements are quite troublesome to fulfill, they are mandatory when moving plumbing equipment. But these recommendations do not help if you need to install the device at a large distance from the riser or if for some reason you do not want to scrupulously comply with all the requirements of SNIP. It will help either to move the pipes, which is extremely difficult, or to use special equipment designed for arranging forced sewerage.

Devices for forced waste disposal

It is a system designed to perform when traditional gravity-fed designs fail. To set it up, a device called fecal pump or sololift. The equipment is quite compactly located inside the tank or behind it. It is a pump equipped with special chopper blades. It pumps out wastewater, grinds solid contaminants, and sends the resulting mass where it should be.

It is very important that the diameter of the pipe used can be small - from 18 to 40 mm, which makes it possible to easily hide them, for example, behind a plasterboard wall. The power is quite high, which makes it possible to discharge wastewater to a distance of about 100 m horizontally and about 5-7 m vertically. The latter may be relevant if the level at which the bathroom is located is lower than required. Installation is quite simple, without the use of additional construction work.

Compact grinder pump located behind the toilet

The pump has temperature restrictions for waste water. Maximum values ​​vary from +35C to +50C. This information should be found in your passport. It will only be relevant if, in addition to the toilet, a shower, bidet, washbasin, etc. are also connected to the pump. For this purpose, an additional inlet hole is provided on the body. If the requirements for the temperature of the pumped liquid are not met, the device fails. In some models you can find special short-term protection that allows you to pump hot wastewater for about 30 minutes, but this cannot be done constantly.

Types of fecal pumps.

The equipment is very easy to maintain. All that is required of the owner is periodic cleaning. To do this, a special solution is poured along with water to destroy deposits on the walls. It is important to ensure that no organic solvent gets in with the waste water; the substance can corrode the rubber seals. The main disadvantage is considered to be its volatility, which does not allow the mechanism to function during a power outage.

How to move a toilet from a riser: description of the process

Recommendations for transfer in the technical part are very little different from instructions for connecting equipment. The only difference will be the installation process of a longer pipeline connecting the device to the sewer. But the installation of a grinder pump differs in some nuances that are worth considering in more detail. Purchase a device with an inlet pipe diameter that matches the toilet outlet diameter. Otherwise, installation will simply be impossible.

The diameter of the inlet pipe must match the size of the outlet

Proper installation of equipment is carried out according to the manufacturer’s instructions. It includes the steps:

• We insert supply pipes or connecting elbows into the pipes.

• We install the pump behind the toilet and securely fasten it to the floor with screws. For this purpose, there are special holes on the device body.
• The pipes leading to the pump must be laid with a slope of 3 cm per meter. This will ensure the flow of wastewater by gravity.
• We connect the outlet sewer pipe to the outlet.
• Models with a separate ventilation outlet require the ventilation duct to be installed above the ridge of the building's roof. It is mounted after connecting the device. There are more simple options, ensuring the absence unpleasant odor using a carbon filter built into the housing.

Models with a built-in carbon filter are easier to install

• We connect the equipment to the network. If the model is equipped with a plug, it is connected to electricity. If not, then it is connected to the network through an RCD machine.
• We connect pipeline elements using welding, soldering or adhesive joints. All arranged bends of inlet and outlet pipe elements should be as smooth as possible.
• The device diverts wastewater and in the vertical plane. If necessary, the vertical section of the pipe should be installed no further than 30 cm from the outlet. Otherwise, it will be impossible to ensure normal pressure inside the pipeline.
• We must install at the outlet pipe of the chopper check valve, which is necessary to prevent the return flow of sewage in the event of an emergency.

Any redevelopment, no matter how simple it may seem, must be carried out extremely competently. This is relevant for cases when changes typical arrangement plumbing equipment. Everything must be carefully calculated and accurately executed. Even small mistakes can lead to chronic problems in the form of constant blockages and unpleasant odors from the bathroom. For those who do not have experience in carrying out work of this kind, it is best to turn to specialists. They will consider specific conditions and give recommendations for purchasing necessary equipment, and they will carry it out efficiently. Only in this case can we guarantee Good work toilet, which will be installed where the homeowner planned.