Tile finish. Technology of wall cladding with ceramic tiles - step by step and in detail

Tiling walls requires certain knowledge and special tools; there is an opinion that this type of work can be performed by anyone, but this is not the case. There are many technologies and nuances that are inaccessible to the average craftsman, using and following which a professional will perform installation in accordance with the unified SNiP standard.

Do not forget that the installation of a ceramic “shirt” is final stage landscaping, a kind of face of the premises. Therefore, it should not only be practical element decor, but also perform protective, water-repellent, fire-retardant functions. main part work remains invisible, but the quality of the finish depends on them.

Cost of tiling walls

By ordering cladding from the San-Sanych company, you can not only save on the purchase of material, but also receive highly qualified services at an affordable price. Thanks to a variety of design and style forms, modern ceramics can be installed in the bedroom, living room, kitchen, and bathroom. It all depends on the main goal, as well as the financial capabilities of the customer.

The surfaces in the apartment, finished with ceramic material, are practical, durable, and easy to maintain. Extensive color palette allows you to select the cladding for the specific purpose of the room.

The total cost of wall cladding with ceramic tiles consists of:

• Market price, dimensions.
• Cost of consumables.

It is necessary to understand that Finishing work using small, as well as extra-class tiles, will cost more, since the time for providing services increases and the risk of compensation for damage increases if individual elements material will be deformed or damaged.

When ordering services for comprehensive landscaping of a premises, you can receive a discount on the footage of the work.

Ceramic tiles (tiles) are one of the most ancient building materials, the first evidence of the use of burnt for more than 6 thousand years. For thousands of years, the material has been used to decorate palaces and temples; its reliability and practicality have been tested by time.

In the 20th century, ceramic tiles became available to the mass consumer; modern construction technologies determined the main area of ​​application of tiles in residential premises - the bathroom. Commercial network offers a wide selection of ceramic tiles; you can order products in online stores.

Advantages of the material

Correctly chosen tiles have virtually no drawbacks; the price range allows you to buy high-quality products at an affordable price; showroom stores offer exclusive batches of original designs. The popularity of the material is ensured by:

• Using natural material– clay, tiles do not contain any “chemicals”, have no sharp edges, retain heat well, and are pleasant to the touch.
• Reliable and durable, absolutely resistant to hot water and a couple. For maintenance you can use abrasive and chemical active agents. detergents, including those based on chlorine.
• Resistant to mechanical stress, the surface does not scratch or crack, the service life exceeds 15 years.
• There are no microcracks, there are no conditions for the appearance of mold and the development of microorganisms.
• Provides installation of water fittings and mounting of hanging accessories.
• Manufacturers offer a wide selection of ceramic tiles, a wide variety of colors and storylines, the tile retains its rich, bright color.

1. Its weight depends on the size of the tile; for walls, the most popular sizes are: rectangular 15x25, 20x25, 33x45 cm or square - 13x13, 20x20, 30x30 cm; designers advise placing at least six tiles in a row on one wall. It is recommended to buy the entire set of material at once and with a reserve; even from the same manufacturer, different batches may differ by 1-2 mm.
2. Ceramic tiles are divided into eight categories according to the degree of moisture resistance; for the bathroom, buy tiles marked with the letter “A”, in this case the surface absorbs less than 3% of moisture.
3. Based on wear resistance, tiles are divided into five types, marked with the PEI symbol and Roman numerals from I to V; for the bathroom, grade II or III is chosen.

Tools

A good tiler can be seen not only by quality work, but also with a thorough approach. He always keeps his tools in good condition and makes sure that everything necessary is always at hand before work. The right technology Wall cladding with ceramic tiles involves the use of the following tools:

In addition to the listed tools, glazed ceramic tiles for interior wall cladding require the use of high-quality tile adhesive (mastic). Glue is purchased separately as ready mixture(usually based on Portland cement), which must be diluted with water before use (all manufacturers must indicate the proportions on the packaging). For reasons of economy or other reasons, you can prepare the tile mortar yourself.

Self-preparation of the solution

When preparing the solution at home, the most suitable base is ordinary M400 cement, and the filler is used construction sand sifted through a fine sieve. The proportions of the components are usually chosen as follows:

• 2 parts of cement M400;
• 5 parts fine sand;
• 1 part water.

For preparation, you will need a measuring container that will allow you to measure out the exact quantities of components, calculated depending on how much of the finished solution is required.

Before adding water, the cement must be mixed very thoroughly with sand until a homogeneous mass of the same color is obtained. If you pour in water until the lumps of cement are broken up by sand, it will be almost impossible to get rid of them.

How to check the quality of the finished mixture

An experienced tiler can determine its quality by the type of mortar, but if you are not sure, then you can use a fairly simple procedure to check:

• spray a little water onto the back side of the tile from a spray bottle until evenly wetting;
• apply and distribute cement-sand mortar;
• the tile is turned with the mortar down and shaken with enough force so that part of the mortar flies off;
• look at the remaining solution - it should remain on the entire surface in a small layer (there should be no empty areas).

If the mixture does not hold or does not hold well enough, you need to prepare a new one.

Self-prepared solution is not suitable for wet areas, therefore, when tiling bathroom walls with ceramic tiles, it is better to prefer factory-made adhesive. It withstands high humidity well, since it contains a variety of additives and additives that give it moisture resistance, fungicidal and other important properties.

Surface preparation

Standard ceramic tiles for wall cladding GOST require good adhesion to the wall surface, therefore, before cladding, the base must be prepared in accordance with certain requirements. The surface of the wall must be flat, a deviation from the plane of no more than 6 mm per 2 linear meters is allowed.

You can evaluate the evenness of the surface using a two-meter aluminum strip. It is enough to attach it to a section of the wall, and measure the difference in height with a regular ruler or other tool. All sections of the wall where the height difference is more than 6 mm must be marked and leveled using a layer of plaster.

Advice! During the leveling process, you do not need to achieve a perfectly smooth surface. On the contrary, minor roughness and minor defects will only improve the adhesion of the tile adhesive to the surface.

If you are going to tile a wall with ceramic tiles for interior cladding, on which there are still traces of the old finish, the preparation process includes the following steps:

1. Remove all remnants of old coatings (wallpaper, paint, whitewash).
2. Tap the area thoroughly with a mallet, listening carefully to the sound and paying attention to the recoil of the hammer. In areas with voids and delaminations, the sound will be noticeably different. These areas should be marked, and in the future they will need to be completely hollowed out and the resulting depressions filled with gypsum or cement mortar.
3. Degrease the surface. This important step is often neglected, but in this case, peeling can occur quite quickly at the site of the greasy stain. You can remove fat using a 3% solution of hydrochloric acid, which is applied to the stain with a sponge and washed off after 3-4 minutes. big amount water.
4. Measuring the evenness of the surface, as described above, knock down all protruding areas using a chisel.
5. When the surface is completely cleaned and degreased, it is additionally leveled using cement-based plaster (or prepared from a purchased mixture). Ideally, it can be completely removed old plaster to the slab and plaster everything from scratch. The result will be much better and more reliable, but this is a labor-intensive and expensive procedure.
6. Notches are applied to the finished surface with a metal object, improving its adhesion to the solution.
7. The last stage of preparation is priming - applying a special composition that adheres well to solutions based on Portland cement.

On a note! If old paint it is very durable and cannot be scraped off; you can simply scratch its surface strongly and deeply. This will significantly improve the quality of adhesion of the tile adhesive.

The correct technology for tiling walls with ceramic tiles includes preliminary marking of the prepared wall, taking into account the size of the tile and the selected joint width. The calculated floor height is selected as the base level. Next, the required height is measured, two dowels are screwed into the wall, and a cord is pulled between them. Having re-measured compliance with the dimensions and strict horizontality, draw a line and transfer the cord to the level of the next seam.

When the markings are ready, begin laying the tiles. IN general case this process consists of the following steps:

1. First, you should lay out the tiles on the floor in the same order in which they will be laid on the wall. In most cases, ceramic tiles for interior wall cladding have certain patterns, and if the aesthetics of the cladding is important, it is advisable to combine them as harmoniously as possible.
2. Having prepared tile adhesive or cement-sand mortar, a small part of it needs to be transferred to a separate container and diluted with water to a liquid state. Wetting with this liquid reverse side tiles, the adhesion of the mortar can be significantly improved. The area of ​​the wall on which the tiles are to be laid must be moistened with plain water.
3. It is recommended to start laying from the corner opposite the entrance, skipping the lowest row. To do this, it is fixed along the bottom marking line metallic profile, on which the row will rest.
4. The adhesive or mortar is applied with a notched trowel to the back surface of the tile or to the wall.
5. The tiles are glued to the wall supported by a previously installed profile. To make sure that the mixture is well distributed and fills the pores, lightly tap the tile with a mallet or the handle of a spatula. Each installed tile is immediately checked using a level.
6. The second tile is installed in the same way. The seam width is adjusted using special wedges. For reliability, you can fix the relative position of the tiles with pieces of masking tape.
7. Having laid out the first row, you need to check its level, after which you can move on to the next row.

Advice! It is recommended to lay the missing bottom row of tiles last. This is done in case, after laying the floor, the whole tile will not fit. Then it can be simply cut with a tile cutter, which is impossible to do with already laid tiles.

• In order to drill holes in the surface of smooth ceramic tiles for wall cladding for various fasteners and decorative elements, it is best to use a “ballerina” - a special drill-cutter with a flexibly adjustable hole diameter.
• If it is not possible to apply the same amount of mastic to each tile, you can cut a special template from plastic of a suitable thickness. IN plastic plate A rectangle is cut along the contour, the dimensions of which are 5-10 mm smaller than the dimensions of the tile. Now, applying the tile to the plate, you can fill the resulting frame with the mixture, and then carefully level it, removing the residue with a spatula. This ensures the highest dosing accuracy even in the absence of experience.
• When tiling bathroom walls with ceramic tiles, you should use factory-made tile adhesive, the specifications of which indicate that it is moisture resistant; it is also desirable that it contains a fungicide. When tiling, the surface of the tile and the wall should be wetted especially carefully to ensure maximum reliability of adhesion.

Approximately 24 hours after laying the tiles, you can start grouting the joints. For this procedure, choose a putty whose color matches the tile itself and the general interior premises. The prepared mixture is applied using a rubber spatula, firmly pressing it into the seam so that it completely fills the gaps.

On a note! You can give the seam a certain shape using a piece of electrical cable, the diameter of which is selected in such a way that it provides a constant profile of the seam without damaging it.

Excess grout mixture from the smooth tile surface must be removed immediately. After waiting for the mixture to dry a little, carefully level each seam using a damp cloth. This simple procedure will make the tiled surface more neat and aesthetically pleasing.

Video

Laying ceramic wall and floor tiles is not a very difficult job that requires special qualifications and skills. But there are several principles, applying and being guided by which, even novice tilers can cope with the task perfectly. We should not forget that tiling the walls is the final stage of work, a kind of makeover. The main part of the work remains invisible, namely on the quality hidden work(base preparation) and the quality of finishing depends.

When choosing tiles, in addition to colors, you need to pay attention to the physical and chemical properties of the tiles. First of all, you need to check whether they have the same colors, patterns and sizes, paying attention to the geometry of the tiles, whether their edges have a right angle and whether the surface of the tiles is even.

Sequence of work

1. Surface preparation.

The base for the tiles must be strong and properly level, free from dirt, dust, lime, grease and paint residues. All loose plaster elements must be removed. Applying a 2 m long rule, we check all deviations of the wall from the vertical and “for clearance”. If deviations from the vertical and gaps between the slats and the wall are more than 5 mm, the wall must be leveled.

Wall alignment is done in several ways. Complete leveling of the wall is done by replacing the plaster layer and leveling the new plaster along the beacons. As an option, the walls can not be plastered, but lined with waterproof plasterboard (GKLV) or CSP sheets (cement particle boards). The cladding of DSP walls is carried out in the same way as cladding with plasterboard, with the only difference being that it is advisable to additionally attach relatively heavy sheets of cement-bonded particle boards to the wall by doweling with “fungi” and/or self-tapping screws.

Partial leveling of the “dips” of the walls identified during the clearance test can be done with tile adhesive, which will be used for gluing the tiles.

Highly absorbent or dusty substrates, such as old ones lime plasters, must be primed. Priming strengthens and stabilizes the base, and also increases the adhesion of the mortar to the base. We use the primer emulsion undiluted. Apply the primer evenly to the wall with a brush or paint roller. On highly absorbent substrates, for example, aerated concrete, we perform priming twice. The first time, using an emulsion diluted in half with water, the second - an undiluted primer. We prime the walls not only before gluing the tiles, but also before partially leveling the “dips” of the walls with tile adhesive. It must be remembered that tile adhesive shrinks slightly when it sets, so you should not try to level the wall “to zero”, the main thing is to reduce the gaps. Monitor the thickness of the applied layer of glue; there is no need to make it thicker than the manufacturer recommends; it is better to apply another layer of glue to the “failure” site, waiting for the bottom layer to dry.

If the wall is tiled with securely held, even tiles, the new tile can be laid on top of the well-washed (degreased) old one. Almost every tile adhesive manufacturer has an adhesive in its product line that is suitable for working on old tiles. Typically, such adhesives have a dual purpose: for lining pools and for working on old tiles. Non-absorbent substrates (old tiles, concrete wall etc.) are treated with primers “for non-absorbent surfaces”. The most famous primer is Betokontakt. However, before you decide to tiling the old tile, it would be a good idea to tap it with the handle of a spatula or a rubber hammer to check for “bumping” and peeling. If the tile makes a bouncing sound, then most likely it has peeled off from the base; it needs to be removed and the “hole” filled with tile adhesive. It would also be a good idea to glue one test tile on top of the old one and leave it for half an hour, and then remove it. If the tile is removed only after prying it off with a spatula, then you can glue it. And remember that the cladding is on top old tiles“steals” the area already small rooms. For example, in a bathroom, tiling over old tiles may not allow you to install a bathtub of the same size as before the tiling work.

Cladding can be done on painted walls oil paints, but only in cases where the paint and plaster underneath do not peel off. Otherwise, the paint must be removed with a hair dryer, removers or mechanically. Before covering walls coated with oil paints, they must be washed with soapy water (degreased) and primed with a primer for non-absorbent surfaces (Betokontakt).

When covering walls with plasterboard sheathing in places exposed to direct moisture, on bases made of plasterboard sheets you need to apply Knauf-Vlachendicht waterproofing.

2. Marking rows of cladding.

First, we need to say that modern tile adhesives allow you to glue tiles in any way: you want, glue it from top to bottom, or from bottom to top. The usual gluing of tiles from the bottom up is more a tribute to tradition than a practical necessity, but this method is still recommended for novice tilers, as it is simpler and more forgiving of small mistakes in gluing technology.

Before you begin laying tiles, you need to accurately plan the placement of the tiles on a given wall. If the size of the wall is not a multiple of the size of the tiles, taking into account the width of the seam, then the tiles will need to be cut. Visually, a wall with a symmetrical arrangement of tiles looks better (we cut the tiles in both corners). We begin laying with the second row of tiles from the center of the wall in any direction. The first, so-called basement row, wall tiles It is better to glue it after laying the floor tiles. This is done to hide jagged edges. floor tiles, which are cut worse due to their hardness.

Rice. 123. Marking the wall for tiling

When determining the height of the second row, you need to take into account the height of the base tiles and the size of the two seams (Fig. 123). We begin the work by marking a horizontal line on the wall and attaching a wooden or aluminum strip in this place. The lath should be smooth and straight, as it determines the level from which we begin laying the tiles. Most often, a profile is used for this purpose to make a frame for plasterboard sheathing, for example, a guide ceiling profile PNP 28×27.

After drawing out the horizontal line and securing a flat bar or profile, we find the center of the wall and draw out a vertical line. By applying the tiles to the wall or using a tape measure, we calculate the number of tiles in the row to the corners of the walls. By placing the first tile with the edge to the axis of the wall or the center, we ensure that the tiles in the corners of the walls will be cut to no more than 1/4 of the width of the tile. Don't forget about the thickness of the tile joint. Seamless installation requires very quality tiles and high professionalism. The seams “forgive” slight crookedness of the tiles and technological errors.

It is not recommended to place tiles less than 1/4 of the width in the corners - they are difficult to trim. It is better to start laying tiles from the center of the wall so that you get cut tiles in the inner corners of the walls. If a whole number of tiles fit on the wall, then this is very good, but this is an isolated case, so the rule of symmetry is observed and the cut tiles “go” into the corners. However, this rule is not a dogma; if equipment will be located in the room being tiled and you know in advance where it will be located, then it is better to put the whole tile in a visible corner, and put the scraps in a non-visible corner. External corners It is recommended to start with whole tiles. Niches and narrow walls are usually made with symmetrical cladding, placing cut or, conversely, whole tiles in the center.

Sometimes not the entire height of the wall is tiled, but only part of it; this part is called a panel. In this case, it is more advisable to glue the tiles from top to bottom. With this method of gluing, the top row will consist of whole tiles, and the base row will consist of cut tiles. Marking for such installation is done in the same way as described above, with the only difference being that the horizontal bar (or outlined line) is installed at a strictly defined height of the cladding panel.

The adhesive solution is prepared according to the instructions on the package. Apply the adhesive solution evenly to the wall with the smooth side of the spatula, and then spread it evenly over the wall surface with the serrated side (Fig. 124). We apply the adhesive solution to the surface of no more than 1 m2, since the solution retains its adhesive properties for 10–30 minutes. This time depends on the type of base and temperature, as well as air humidity. The solution, which has already dried on the wall and has lost its adhesive ability, should be removed and a new layer applied. The size of the trowel teeth should be selected depending on the size and depth of the back side profile, as well as the size of the tile. You should adhere to the principle - the larger the tile, the larger the size of the trowel teeth.

For thin tiles, use spatulas with V-shaped teeth 3–5 mm high, for example; for wall glazed tiles, for larger tiles (150-200mm) 6mm square notch trowels are used, and U shaped trowels are used for larger tiles (size 300mm and above) and irregular shape, assume for handmade tiles. The high ridges created by using a large-notched trowel cover the back of the tiles well. large sizes and tiles with projections, but if you lay small tiles on them, excess mortar will be squeezed into the seams between the tiles. Conversely, using a small-tooth trowel will produce ridges that are suitable for small tiles, but they will not be tall enough to completely cover the back of large tiles or tiles with tabs.

To determine the correct choice of a notched trowel, a small test is performed. The glue is applied to the wall and “combed” with a spatula. After processing the glue with a spatula, strips of glue of a certain height are obtained on the wall. Tiles are glued to them. When pressed into the adhesive, the tile flattens the ridges of the strips, so a layer of adhesive of uniform thickness is obtained under the tile. Immediately remove the tile from the wall, turn it over and watch how the glue covers the back side of the tile. If the glue covers the entire tile, then the height of the trowel teeth is chosen correctly. If there are places on the tile that are not covered with glue, you need to replace the spatula with another one with higher teeth.

Handmade tiles with very uneven backs, mosaic tiles Sheet-mounted tiles and some cut ceramic and stone tiles require additional application of adhesive to the back of the tile using a square trowel to ensure full contact between the tile and the substrate. Applying adhesive to the back of the tiles is an additional measure and does not replace its distribution on the base. Insufficient or uneven application of adhesive will weaken the bond and cause cracking of tiles and grout joints.

We start laying the tiles from the bottom (Fig. 125). Usually, first a vertical row is laid to a height of 3–5 tiles, then a horizontal row (in any direction from the beginning of the cladding) to a width of 4–6 tiles. Verticality is checked with a level. Then the tiles are laid in a ladder. However, although this sequence of cladding is generally accepted, it is not fundamental; you can glue the tiles in a different sequence, it is only important to maintain the vertical and horizontal lines of the seams. To ensure that the seams are the same, we use spacer crosses, selecting them according to the width of the seam.

Rice. 126. Wall tiling

After laying the tiles on the wall, we press them with our hands, and if the tiles are large, we knock them down with a special rubber hammer (Fig. 126). During the work process, we constantly check the correctness of the cladding using the level and the rules. If necessary, freshly laid tiles can be hammered with a rubber mallet or repositioned; then, when the adhesive solution has set, this will be more difficult to do. Let us remember that the “lifetime” of the adhesive solution is approximately 30 minutes. We remove excess mortar in the seams before it hardens. During breaks in work, remove excess mortar from the walls.

Cutting the tiles should be done using special tools, remembering that they are of the appropriate size. We glue the cut tiles separately, last. Remember to maintain the appropriate seam width. We finish the facing with seams in all corners. Never install tiles against walls or ceilings (floors). In the future, the building may settle and the tiles placed in the spacer will peel off. It’s better to have a seam where the tiles adjoin the walls, ceiling and floor; it will partially relieve the tension of the building’s settlement.

During work, hard-to-reach places will appear, for example, behind a heating radiator. It is sometimes impossible to apply the solution there and level it with a notched trowel. Therefore, the gluing technology is changed: they apply glue not to the wall, but to the tiles and level it with a notched trowel. It is easier to reach a hard-to-reach place with a tile by hand than with a spatula.

When tiling the wall around the pipes, it is necessary to drill the tiles. This is done with a core drill of the appropriate diameter. However, having the appropriate tool is not always necessary. Holes of any diameter can be drilled in the tiles with just one drill (Fig. 127). A circle of the required diameter is drawn on the tile and drilled with a small drill, then the jumpers are cut out with wire cutters or pliers. When drilling tiles, first place any drill bit in the drilling area and lightly tap the glaze with a hammer. Then you can drill with a pobedit or diamond drill. When drilling with a hammer drill, it must be switched to drilling. Never drill a tile “with a blow” - it will crack. Even if you then drill the tiles on the wall, for example, in order to hang a cabinet, first the glaze is cracked, then the tile is drilled and as soon as the drill goes through the tile, you can switch the hammer drill to impact and drill the wall.

After finishing covering the wall with whole tiles, carefully remove the strip so as not to cause the bottom row of tiles to fall off. If there is a layer of mortar under the lath, carefully remove it with a spatula. We tear off the rail by lifting it with a nail puller or a screwdriver.

The last stage of laying ceramic wall tiles is gluing the bottom row. Apply the adhesive solution to the wall surface under the first row of tiles. With this sequence of work, the uneven edges of the floor tiles will be covered by the plinth wall tiles.

4. Filling the seams.

24 hours after the installation of ceramic wall tiles has been completed, you can begin filling the joints using the desired color of joint compound. Pour the dry mass of the solution into a clean container with water and knead manually or mechanically until a homogeneous mass is obtained. After this, leave the solution for 5–10 minutes to obtain better homogeneity, then knead again. Once again, mix the solution and fill the seams with it using a rubber spatula or a grater with glued rubber. We collect the excess mortar with a grater and fill the seams again. When the solution dries a little (after 15–30 minutes), first wash the surface, collecting excess solution and cleaning the tiles. This work is performed using a sponge or grater, covered with a sponge with large pores, lightly moistened clean water. After the solution has completely dried (1 hour), which is characterized by a lightened surface of the tiles, we proceed to final cleaning, which is performed with a clean flannel rag or a hard sponge.

The connection between the wall and the floor in areas where water is frequently encountered, such as bathrooms, should be filled with a material that provides an airtight seal. Silicone is perfect for this. We squeeze the mixture out of the tube and apply it in excess onto the seam, using a hand sprayer we moisten the silicone mass together with the adjacent surface with water and soap. We collect the remaining silicone with a spatula. Moistening with water prevents the silicone mass from sticking to the surface of the tiles.

The seams between the bathtub (shower tray) and the wall covered with tiles are also siliconized in the same way (Fig. 128).

Ceramic tiles have gained wide popularity due to their aesthetic and hygienic qualities. The surface of the walls after such finishing is reliably protected from the effects of fire, chemicals and moisture. In the kitchen, the technology of wall cladding with ceramic tiles allows you to get any decorative effect even after covering only part of the wall in the places where the table, stove and sink are located. You can do the same in the toilet and bathroom. It will be enough to tile the surface 1.5 m-1.6 m in height, and paint the rest of the surface to match the tiles or paste wallpaper.

What is needed for high-quality cladding

Finishing work with tiles is carried out with special tools. You should stock up on them in advance. The list below includes those devices that professional tilers use. Although it is possible that any of the tools will be replaced by another suitable tool.

Required:

• water vessel (about 6 l);
• bucket for solution;
• Master OK;
• rubber spatula;
• hard brush;
• measuring instruments (cord, spirit level, plumb line, square, tape measure);
• wooden hammer;
• dowels or steel pin (needed when working with a cord);
• jointing;
• wire cutters;
• tile cutter;
• special hammer.

In addition to tiles for cladding, you will need glue, cement mortar or mastic and joint filler.

The finishing technology includes three stages:

1. Leveling the main surface.
2. Applying a solution or other adhesive.
3. Facing.

Ceramic tiles are often laid on a cement composition, which is also used to level the base and seams. The construction mixture contains Portland cement, fine sand and water. The ratio of the constituent elements depends on the stage of cladding.

To prepare a mixture for plastering and leveling walls, you will need M400 cement, fine construction sand, water, with a mass ratio of 1: 3: 0.5. Mix first bulk materials and then diluted with water.

For cladding, the same components are taken, changing the component:

• cement of the above brand - 1 part;
• fine sand – 2.4 parts;
• water – 0.4 parts.

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How to check the quality of the solution

A certain amount of the prepared cement-sand mixture must be applied to the back side of the tile after it has been pre-moistened. Then it is unfolded and gently shaken. Quality solution will remain on the tile with a layer of about 3 mm. If the entire prepared mixture falls to the floor, this means that sand and cement need to be added to the solution.

The building mixture for cladding should be prepared in small doses, since its normal consistency will last one or two hours.

Then hardening occurs, and if you add water after that, the quality of the solution will no longer be the same. Therefore, the cement mixture for cladding must be prepared in a volume of approximately 5 liters. It is best for an inexperienced master to prepare an even smaller amount, because the solution must be used up within an hour and a half. You might be interested in:

Kitchen design rules

To prepare a softer composition, take one part of colored cement and one part of ordinary sifted sand. Mix all this thoroughly and add water until softened plasticine becomes thick.

The reverse side of the tile is moistened with cement laitance before facing. It is prepared from water and Portland cement in a ratio of 4:1.

The cement composition can be replaced with mastic. It consists of synthetic or organic binders and dust or mineral fillers.

The most convenient thing is to use mastic prepared in the factory workshop. However, sometimes it is prepared immediately before the facing process.

• Depending on the presence of certain binders, mastic can be:
• plaster;
• bitumen;
• polymer;
• casein;

bitumen-polymer.

The advantages of mastic for wall cladding are that it easily acquires the desired thickness when diluted with water and sets quickly. Therefore, after applying it, you can lay the tiles. The disadvantages include rapid hardening, which is why the entire installation process must be completed as quickly as possible and without errors.

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For tiling the bathroom and areas that are exposed to increased moisture, it is best to use waterproof glue and grout.

Preparatory work

The cladding technology requires scrupulous preparation of the surface before repair.

In order for the tiles to adhere firmly, the walls must be clean, level and dry. Deviation from the vertical is allowed within 10 mm. To determine the evenness of the walls, use a 2-meter duralumin strip and a spirit level. The rail is leaned against the surface and leveled with a building level. The gap from the wall to the batten should not be more than 10 mm. Areas that do not correspond to this parameter must be marked and leveled cement-sand mortar

Elevations greater than 10 mm are removed with a chisel. If necessary, they are primed with polyvinyl acetate dispersion and leveled with mortar.

If the walls have flat surface, but are covered with greasy stains, then the solution will not stick in these places. Therefore, degreasing is required. To do this, use a 5% solution of soda ash or a 3% solution of hydrochloric acid. After 2-3 minutes, the surface is washed and left to dry.

On a smoothly plastered surface, you need to make notches that promote strong adhesion of the mortar. A simple hammer can be used for this purpose. Then the walls must be cleaned of dust. This is convenient to do with a brush dipped in water.

Then hardening occurs, and if you add water after that, the quality of the solution will no longer be the same. Therefore, the cement mixture for cladding must be prepared in a volume of approximately 5 liters. It is best for an inexperienced master to prepare an even smaller amount, because the solution must be used up within an hour and a half. What kind of wallpaper can you use for your kitchen?

If the cladding will take place using mastic, then brick walls covered with gypsum-lime mortar. The ratio of components in it should be as follows:

• lime – 1 part;
• sand – 3 parts;
• gypsum - 0.5 parts.

At the same time, you should not apply a coating layer, which will weaken the adhesion of the mastic and the wall surface.

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Hanging walls and installing beacons

The cladding technology involves laying square and rectangular tiles in straight rows (staggered or seam to seam), and square tiles also diagonally.

Finishing work starts from the bottom. When the floor has not yet been put in order, you need to find out the level of the finished floor and install slats around the perimeter. Standard tiles for skirting boards they are laid out during floor covering, and then to install the slats-rules, the height of the skirting boards is taken into account.

After this, the surface is hung and beacons are placed at the level of the top row on each side of the wall. First, a pair of upper tile beacons are installed, and then a pair of lower ones at the level of the initial row. Beacons for the bottom row are placed exactly in one line under the top beacons horizontally or vertically. In this case, you need to take into account the thickness of the tile, plaster and mortar layer. The solution for attaching the beacons is the same as for all tiles.

Near the lighthouses, pins are driven in and a mooring cord is secured. Stretch it horizontally between a pair of lower beacons one millimeter from top edge initial row of ceramic tiles. To clarify the vertical location of the seams, you need to stretch the mooring cord vertically. It is necessary to check the position of the cord using a spirit level.

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How to do cladding correctly

Before attaching the material to the wall, you need to determine its quantity. To do this, lay the tiles dry. If the cladding will have expanded seams, then for the calculation you need to know the width of the seams. First of all, the tiles are sorted by size and cut pieces of tiles are prepared if the entire plates do not fit in a row.

To cover the walls, the surface is treated with water, and the back side of the tile is immersed in cement milk for a second. This procedure enhances the adhesion of the tile to the mortar and the surface.

The first row begins to be laid from the corner or from the middle of the wall. The latter option is appropriate when symmetrical tile laying is required.

The solution is applied to the back of the ceramic tile using a notched trowel. Then it is applied to the wall at an angle and, guided by the mooring, is brought down to the required level, tapping with the handle of a trowel. After laying the initial row, the pins are driven under the next row. The cord is pulled and the subsequent rows are lined using the same technology. Shaped parts are installed as work progresses.

Then hardening occurs, and if you add water after that, the quality of the solution will no longer be the same. Therefore, the cement mixture for cladding must be prepared in a volume of approximately 5 liters. It is best for an inexperienced master to prepare an even smaller amount, because the solution must be used up within an hour and a half. Kitchen design and assembly

During the tiling process, you need to ensure that during settlement the space between the wall and the tile is completely filled with mortar. All mortar that has protruded from under the tiles must be removed with a trowel or trowel.

Each row must be checked for quality using a 2-meter strip. It is applied to the processed plane and examined for the presence of gaps. A tile laid incorrectly is removed, an adhesive is added and installed back, shrinking to the required level.

You can do wall cladding with ceramic tiles yourself without spending a lot of money on specialists. It will just take you a little longer than a professional.

Good afternoon to all those who have decided to start renovations in their favorite apartment. In this article I want to tell you how to choose the right ceramic tiles for the bathroom, as well as how to work with them. Be patient, friends, and everything will definitely work out for you. So, let's begin!

How to choose ceramic tiles

I would like to note right away that ceramic tiles are the best material for finishing the bathroom, so it is very important to choose not only the color scheme, to increase visual space, but also a quality product. Initially, experts recommend choosing the tile itself, and only then proceeding with the selection of plumbing fixtures and accessories.

Helpful information:

Basically, ceramic tiles today are produced in collections that contain both wall and floor tiles, as well as decorative elements. The collection will have one style, range and theme. Now the choice is simply huge, and it will not be difficult for you to make a choice, however, a professional consultant in the salon will always be able to help you and even create a 3D picture of your bathroom in the color scheme of the ceramic tiles you like.

When purchasing, pay special attention to appearance and quality. Basically choose classic design, because color schemes made in a soft and pleasing color to the eye. After all, when you go into the bathroom, you want to relax and have fun, and not be in constant tension. You will get tired of bright and colorful ceramic tiles very quickly. The most pleasant tones, as experts say, are: pink, light blue, beige, imitation of natural marble and stone. Don't chase the brand name - these tiles will cost much more.

Preparing the bathroom for tiling

We begin work by first printing out the tiles and laying them out so that they are at hand, and also prepare all the tools. And only after that we begin to mix the glue.

The mixing container is a plastic bucket or basin. Why plastic - yes, because it is easier to clean it later from glue residues. First we pour cold water and then pour out the dry glue mixture, gradually mix with a drill and mixer until smooth.

Important! You should not have any lumps - I think there is no need to explain here.

All instructions are written on the bag of glue powder. If the mixture is liquid, your laid tiles will float; if you mix it too thick, it will be much more difficult to work with. Do not mix too much at once, as the glue thickens and dries quickly.

Important! Do not lay tiles on an adhesive mixture that has already dried a little, this will weaken the adhesion of the tiles to the adhesive mixture. It is better to remove the glue and apply a new solution.

If you start tiling with ceramic tiles on a vertical surface, then start laying from the floor or, for example, from the bathtub, as this will provide a kind of support. And be sure to put crosses.

Also very important! Be sure to leave a seam between the floor and the first row of tiles using crosses. Usually, I’ll tell you from personal experience, the consumption of crosses is twice as much as you bought tiles.

There are so-called areas where it is not possible to apply glue to the wall with a spatula - these are corners, wall joints, various transitions, etc. In this case, apply the adhesive base with a notched trowel directly onto the tile. Thus, we lay out the area that will be most convenient for work and leave it to harden.

The next day, take care of everyone hard to reach places, since when working near tiles that have not dried, a stumble can ruin many hours of work.

Only after the tiles have dried sufficiently and all the moisture has left, and this is 2-3 days, start grouting the joints with a special grout mixture. Which you can easily buy at any store that deals with building materials.

Do not skimp on the grout mixture and buy only from branded manufacturers, as your seams can crack and lose their chic appearance in a fairly short time.

This is done simply: mix the mixture as you mixed the glue and rub in the grout rubber spatula in the seams. After drying, wash the tiles and, voila, beauty!

To achieve an ideal result in your work, you can treat ceramic tiles special composition. It gives the tiles an extra good shine, and also leaves a protective layer against dirt and moisture.

Video: how to grout seams in tiles

How to drill and cut ceramic tiles

If during tiling you need incomplete tiles, then we do the usual trimming of the tiles. It is better to cut the tiles that you have prepared for the floor with a tile cutter. It looks like a glass cutter attached to a bed.

For wall tiles, a regular glass cutter will do. Be sure to measure the exact distance you need and make all marks on the tile with a marker or pencil. We place a good ruler on the wall tile, press it firmly so that it does not move, and use a glass cutter or chisel with strong hand pressure. Afterwards, they simply break it along the cut with special pliers or hit it with the back of the tile on a wooden block at the place of the cut. The cut edge can be sanded using an abrasive stone.

Holes in tiles– is done mainly with a special instrument called a “ballerina”. But at home you can usually do without it. We will need a regular drill and drill bits for drilling walls, concrete and the like. We drill without strong pressure, while slowly pouring water over the drilling area so that the tile does not burst. If a figured cutout is required, then we cut it with a regular grinder with a stone disc or bite it out with special pliers.