What to do when the strawberry harvest is harvested. How to care for strawberries in July to get a big harvest again

After fruiting, strawberry plants remain active for a long time - it is during this period that the next year’s harvest is laid. If you care for strawberries after harvesting thoroughly and thoroughly, then next year you can experience an increase in yield of up to 30%. Rested bushes that have received additional nutrition will produce tastier, juicier, sweeter berries. Caring for garden strawberries (strawberries) after fruiting continues all summer in July and August.

Caring for strawberries in July after harvest

In July, after fruiting, it is necessary to trim the tendrils, remove dry leaves, weed the beds, feed the plants, water and hill up. There is no need to trim or mow all strawberry foliage in July. You only need to remove unnecessary leaves and whiskers. But if a nematode is found on strawberries, the bushes should be dug up and destroyed without regret. Spraying will save you from strawberry mites. Timely feeding and watering will help the plants both restore strength and stock up on new ones.

Pruning strawberries after harvest

Immediately after harvesting, we advise you to weed the beds, removing all weeds. At the same time, you can remove some of the tendrils, especially those that crawl out of the garden bed, and also cut out all the dried out leaf blades that are starting to turn red.

I advise you to burn the cut leaves as quickly as possible. There is no need to compost them, and you should not make a layer of mulch or covering material out of them. The leaves may have diseases or pests.

Immediately after you remove all the unnecessary leaves, you need to get rid of the old layer of mulch, if there was one. Then you can begin to loosen the soil, watering and applying fertilizer.

How to properly prune strawberries

You can remove leaves by combing them with a rake, mowing or cutting them with a garden knife or scissors. I strongly do not recommend picking off leaves: by pulling a leaf, you can pull out a bush or part of it, disturbing the root system. A damaged bush will take a long time to recover, become sick, and the harvest for the next season will decrease.

Most best option for those who have small areas, this is to remove unnecessary leaf blades with sharp garden scissors or pruning shears. You can mow the leaves, but try not to damage the rosettes and healthy leaf mass.

Processing strawberries after harvest

When working with garden strawberries, I advise you to pay more attention to the leaves. If you notice that some have become corrugated, then most likely they were attacked strawberry mite . If it is detected, the plants must be treated with any approved acaricidal (anti-mite) drugs, strictly following the instructions on the packaging.

Sometimes the central leaves of a strawberry plant suddenly begin to turn yellow, their petioles noticeably thicken and become shorter. This means only one thing - the bushes were struck nematode . It is difficult to get rid of it; it is much easier to remove the bushes from the area and pour boiling water on the soil where they grew.

Loosening strawberries after harvest

Try to loosen only between rows; I do not advise you to climb close to the bushes so as not to damage the root system. In the row-spacings, you can deepen the tip of the hoe by 7-8 cm, this is quite enough. After loosening the row spacing, you can hill up the bushes with 2 cm of fresh soil.

Try first to hill up those bushes that have root system for some reason it is bare (usually in plants 2-3 years old), and the soil should not get into the center of the bush.

Fertilizing strawberries after harvest

In July, it is best to use a mixture of complex and mineral fertilizers for fertilizing. Consumption rate: 20-25 g per 1 m². When using nitroammophoska, it is scattered over the surface of the soil, both dry and dissolved.

How to fertilize strawberries

Dry mineral fertilizers strawberries must be applied in a certain order:

1. loosen the soil
2. water – a bucket of water per 1 m²,
3. sprinkle fertilizer over the surface,
4. sprinkle dry soil on top.

Also, dry mineral fertilizers can be dissolved in water (0.5 tbsp per 1 liter of water) and watered with them on the soil under the earthen bushes, spending 2-3 liters per 1 m² of soil.

Attention!

Fertilizers containing chlorine, such as potassium chloride, should not be applied to garden strawberries. Strawberries react very poorly to chlorine: growth may slow down or fruiting may deteriorate.

Photo: Phosphorus-potassium water-soluble fertilizer Monopotassium phosphate for fertilizing fruits and other crops

Fertilizing strawberries after harvest with chicken droppings

In July, you can enrich strawberries with organic matter. Towards the end of the month, it is permissible to feed strawberries with chicken droppings diluted 15 times with water. Chicken droppings dissolved in water can only be applied to plants; it should not be applied to the foliage - this can cause severe burns.

In general, try to water and fertilize in the evening or early in the morning.

Watering strawberries after harvest

Watering is combined with fertilizing. 2-3 days after fertilizing, if there is no rain, you can water the strawberries again, pouring out 2 buckets per 1 m² and mulching the surface with a 2-3 cm layer of humus. Humus has a very good effect on the soil: it prevents the formation of a crust and prevents evaporation moisture, slows down the growth of weeds and improves the structure of the soil substrate.

How often to water strawberries

Throughout the entire season and until its end, the soil on the strawberry plantation must be kept slightly moist, not allowing the earthen coma to dry out. Watering should be carried out in accordance with the weather outside the window. If it is cool and raining, then there is no need to water the plants. If it is dry and hot, then watering is necessary and at least once a week.

For 1 m² of strawberry bed, 2 buckets of water are consumed. When watering, it is advisable to use water that has settled during the day, which the sun has warmed to room temperature.

DIY drip irrigation of strawberries

The ideal irrigation option is drip irrigation: it saves both water and precious time. The optimal solution for drip irrigation for a do-it-yourself dacha is to install a tank under the roof of the roof. Place it on a slight elevation and direct several drippers from it directly to the beds. To prevent leaves or large debris from the roof from getting inside, which can clog the dropper holes, the surface of the tank must be covered plastic mesh with the smallest holes. Water will pass through the holes, but debris and leaves will not.

Caring for strawberries after harvest in August

The second stage of caring for garden strawberries after fruiting occurs in August. At this time, you need to continue removing dry leaves, watering, fertilizing, and removing whiskers. It’s also time to start preparing your plants for winter.

Pruning strawberries in August

In August, you need to cut off all the dried leaves on the strawberries that are starting to turn red. First of all, pay attention to early varieties, then move on to mid-season ones and, finally, cut off the leaves of late varieties.

Strawberry processing in August

In August you can produce preventative treatments against fungal infections (fungicides) and against mites (acaricides). Use only approved drugs, the list of which is updated annually.

To fight infection, you can use a more gentle one. environment 1% lime solution and copper sulfate. It will prevent the appearance of rot and spots on plants.

Fertilizing strawberries in August

To increase the immunity and winter hardiness of plants, you can repeat some fertilizing in August. I do not recommend using nitrogen fertilizers in August; strawberries do not need excessive growth activity in the fall.

You can use a solution of potassium salt (1 tsp per 1 m²) and a solution of superphosphate in the same volume. Superphosphate in cold water It does not dissolve very well, so it is better to use water heated to 35-40 °C.

Watering strawberries in August

Around the middle of the month, you can loosen the soil in the strawberry bed, water it at the rate of 1.5 buckets per 1 m² and mulch the surface with a 2-3 cm layer of humus. During the month, it is also worth remembering about additional watering; you should not allow the soil to dry out for a long time or too long .

Covering strawberries for the winter

At the end of the month, I advise you to start preparing for the winter period. For these purposes, you need to stock up on covering material, such as straw, or buy non-woven covering material such as spunbond.

You probably won’t find a gardener who doesn’t grow strawberries in his garden. After all, both children and adults love her. Fragrant juicy berries are not only tasty, but also very healthy, as they are rich in vitamins and minerals.

That is why everyone who grows it wants to get a rich harvest. But to achieve this, you need to care for strawberries not only when they bloom and bear fruit. Great value has care for strawberries after harvest. This is directly related to the laying of future berries, so experienced gardeners pay special attention to strawberries during this period.

The berries have been picked - why do we need care now?

Some people believe that regular autumn harvesting is sufficient for strawberries. But the thing is that strawberries stop bearing fruit very early, and there is still a lot of time left until autumn. Over the summer, the beds can become so overgrown with weeds that autumn harvesting will be very difficult, which is why caring for strawberries after harvest is required.

In addition, bushes that have finished bearing fruit must again replenish their strength, accumulating them for the next season, which will be almost impossible to do in the vicinity of weeds.

Among other things, it is at this time that strawberries begin to form young leaves and form flower buds again. Numerous mustaches appear, which also weaken the mother bush if they are not trimmed in time. Against the background of this process, the old foliage slowly dies off, preventing the new one from developing normally.

All these factors already indicate that caring for strawberries after harvest is necessary. But that's not all.

Various pests and pathogens that have accumulated on old leaves over the season try to move to new young leaves. And they may be quite enough. After all, everyone knows that during fruiting it is not recommended to weed strawberries, much less treat them with chemicals.

So, in addition to the accumulated dying old leaves, it is also necessary to loosen the row spaces. Since strawberry roots are already shallow, the resulting adventitious roots may even end up on the surface of dense soil. And this is just at the moment when strawberries really need extra nutrition.

In fact, it turns out that fertilizing carried out in the fall is still far away, nutrients there is not enough in the soil, and the strawberries remain on a starvation diet. But as already mentioned, the better it gets stronger and lays more flower buds, the more berries can be collected next year. Here are other reasons why strawberries need to be processed after harvest.

What measures should be taken with strawberries after harvesting?

Based on the above, there is a need to carry out comprehensive measures, which will consist of proper plant care.

It is as follows:

• trimming old leaves and removing whiskers;
• destroying weeds and loosening the soil;
• timely watering;
• treatment against pests and diseases;
• feeding

Trimming old leaves or mowing?

Many people ask whether strawberries are mowed after harvest. In most cases, yes. Because thanks to this, strawberries can be freed from old leaves and the way can be opened for new ones, which just during this period begin to grow. You just have to do this very carefully.

This procedure should begin when at least a week has passed after picking the strawberries. The leaves are mowed at a height of 7-8 cm so as not to damage the growing points, after which they are removed with a rake.

Within a few days, the strawberry bushes will begin to be covered with young leaves, and soon the bed will take on its original appearance.

If you are not a supporter of mowing and are interested in when to prune strawberries after harvesting, then you can also do this after 7-10 days.

Old leaves are cut to the same height without affecting the growth point. Each bush is treated this way. This method is suitable when you need to trim strawberries after harvesting in a small area.

In addition to young leaves in the summer, strawberries begin to throw out mustaches. If you want to propagate it, then you can dig in some whiskers. The rest should be gotten rid of, since they take a lot of energy from the plants.

How to tidy up your garden beds?

After you have renewed your strawberries after harvesting, what to do next? Of course, tidy up the beds.

Destroy all the weeds that managed to occupy it during ripening, go through the rake again, removing the remaining leaves, and you can start hilling each plant with a hoe. During this period, the roots of some bushes begin to protrude, which leads to their drying out, and the plants cannot grow normally. This is why hilling is necessary. Just be careful not to cover the heart with soil.

After this, all that remains is to loosen the row spacing well.

Watering strawberries

Caring for strawberries after harvesting requires mandatory watering. Because the soil in the beds must be well moistened. It should be watered abundantly, but infrequently, taking into account weather conditions. To retain moisture, the soil must be mulched, for which peat is suitable. Do not allow crusting to form after watering. Therefore, you need to loosen the soil around each bush and between the rows.

Spraying strawberries

The summer period, when the berries are picked, is the most best time to improve the health of plants. Treatment of strawberries after harvest against diseases is carried out with various preparations.

Which of them to use depends on different plant diseases, determined by their appearance:

• If damage to young leaves appears, then the earthen mite is to blame. Spraying with colloidal sulfur diluted with water or preparations such as Fitoverm, Actellik and Titovit Jet can help get rid of it;
• the presence of brown spots on the leaves indicates viral diseases. In this case, they are treated with Bordeaux mixture;
• if rotting of the berries was observed, then the plants were affected by a fungus - gray rot. To eliminate it, you need to spray the bushes with a solution of a popular fungicide - copper oxychloride.

Processing strawberries after harvest also involves prevention.

Firstly, the affected leaves must be removed immediately, carefully inspecting the bushes.

And secondly, manganese is a reliable assistant in this case. Dilute a weak solution and not only spray the bushes with it, but also water the soil in the garden bed.

Fertilizing strawberries

Don’t know what to feed your strawberries after harvesting, and why do it? First of all, so that next year it bears fruit well. After all, as mentioned above, it is at this time that flower buds are formed, which determine the next harvest.

Complex fertilizers produced specifically for strawberries, such as Rubin, Ryazanochka or Agricola, are perfect for summer feeding. They must be added according to the instructions, combining this procedure with watering and loosening the soil.

If you are interested in what else to feed strawberries after harvesting, then you can also use humus for this purpose, wood ash or ammophoska.

Preparing for winter

This is not a difficult task, but it is mandatory, since next year’s harvest will depend on this stage.

You have already figured out how much attention strawberries require after harvest, and what to do with them throughout the summer. It remains to figure out how to prepare it for winter.

Don't be surprised, but you've already done some of this preparation. After all best protection from winter cold - these are healthy, overgrown leaves and the absence of pests. So it’s not in vain that you tried all summer, putting the bushes in order, feeding and treating them with remedies for diseases, and also removing weeds and loosening the beds.

Now all you have to do is mulch the plantings with sawdust or peat in October, making a layer no more than 5 cm, and in November cover them with spruce branches or raspberry branches so that snow will linger on them later. This will be the best shelter for strawberries.

For good fruiting Strawberries require year-round care for this crop. After harvest, strawberry bushes require special care recovery. With proper preventive maintenance, strawberries increase fruiting by at least 15-30 percent.

The fruits become larger, juicier and sweeter. Any variety plain or remontant strawberries He is grateful for the care and berries grown with his own hands are strikingly different from store-bought ones.

How to properly care for strawberries after fruiting

Care after picking berries in July

In July, after fruiting of strawberries, care corresponding to this period is carried out, these are:

• mustache trimming,
• dried leaves,
• weeding,
• feeding,
• hilling strawberries.

In July, after picking berries, the plants begin to grow new leaves, form new horns, the growth of tendrils with lateral rosettes intensifies, and new flower buds are laid.

First, the beds are weeded. Excess tendrils and dried leaves are removed. Reddened leaves are removed first. You cannot tear off the foliage and mustache, you can only cut it, otherwise the bush will be damaged and will hurt.

For pruning, use sharp scissors or pruning shears. It is better to burn old leaves to prevent the proliferation of pests. If young leaves curl or take on a corrugated shape, this is an indicator of strawberry mite infestation and the plants should be treated with acaricidal preparations.

If the central leaves turn yellow and the petioles are thickened and short, this is a sign of a nematode. At the same time, the plant is dug up, treated with boiling water and removed from the site.

After pruning, old mulch is removed from the beds. The soil around the strawberries is loosened, fertilized, and watered.

The row spacing is loosened to a depth of 10 centimeters. Around the plants, loosening is carried out to a depth of 5 centimeters. The bushes are sprucing up.

In this case, the roots should be completely covered, and the upper part of the bush should remain above the ground. This is especially true for plants that have been growing for several years, since their root system begins to protrude above the ground.

For feeding, mineral fertilizers with an admixture of microelements are used. There are about 30 grams of fertilizer per square meter. A special fertilizer for garden strawberries, Fertika, ammophoska, is suitable for this.

Fertilizers containing potassium chloride cannot be used, as it slows down growth and impairs fruiting. Fertilizers are embedded in the soil to a depth of about 6 centimeters.

In addition to these fertilizers, you can use last year's humus. It crumbles on top. It will improve the soil structure and make it more fertile.

You can also fertilize the beds with diluted chicken manure (15 parts water and 1 part manure). When feeding, we must not forget that this solution should not get on the foliage, otherwise burns will appear on the plants, which provokes the development of diseases. A high concentration of the solution can completely destroy the bush. Therefore, this type of feeding is not used so often.

In dry weather, the beds are watered. Soil moisture should be maintained until the end of the season. Watering is done once a week with a bucket per square meter.

For better results, you can use drip irrigation. This type of irrigation will allow you to get required quantity moisture and at the same time the plants do not rot, since the soil does not become waterlogged.

The soil around the bushes is mulched with chopped grass, peat, and straw.

Caring for strawberries in August

To get a bountiful strawberry harvest next year, proper care is required. The last month of summer is best suited for this.

Care includes:

• pruning leaves,
• mustache transplant,
• preparing plants for winter.

Old leaves are cut off. If varieties grow in groups, they are processed first early varieties. Then come the middle and late varieties, this will allow you to evenly care for the plants and will not allow them to outgrow, which leads to the threat of infection with diseases and pests.

The mustache is cut off at a distance of 10 centimeters from the base of the bush. After pruning, young foliage and the core (horns) remain on the bush.

The mustaches with new rosettes and young roots are planted to form young bushes. For this purpose, the strongest specimens are selected, and the weak ones are removed.

For better yield After harvesting, the strongest tendril remains on the bush. A new mother bush will grow from it to replace the old one. This operation is performed every three years.

And the spots are treated with therapeutic and preventive spraying of strawberries.

For spraying the following preparations are used: Karbofos or Actellik, this is protection against weevils and strawberry mites; Azocene and Topaz are used for the prevention and control of powdery mildew; a one percent solution of lime and copper sulfate saves bushes and berries from rot and spotting.

Feeding the bushes during this period increases the degree of frost resistance of the plant and promotes the formation of flower buds.

Feeding with fertilizers

For fertilizers, fertilizers with nitrogen are used (a strong urea solution is not suitable).
Complex mineral fertilizers should include: 1 part nitrogen, 2 parts phosphorus, 4 parts potassium. IN ready-made version, it could be: Fusco, Autumn, Autumn. All of these preparations, in addition to the base, contain other useful material.

The Autumn fertilizer does not contain nitrogen, which allows it to be used even at a later period, but this preparation contains all the elements that are necessary for the growth and good fruiting of strawberries.

Suitable organic fertilizers include: peat, horse manure in granules, humus, bone meal.

Bird droppings are not used to avoid excess nitrogen.

Mineral and organic fertilizers should not be mixed. In rare cases, when the soil is depleted, mineral and organic fertilizers are introduced over the entire area of ​​the beds. If the strawberry planting area is quite large, this mixture can also be used.

After feeding, the plants are covered with mulch, and for wintering the bushes are covered with leaves, pine needles, potato tops, and straw. Dry weather is chosen for shelter, otherwise the layer may cake and cause the formation of pests and diseases inside the layer or lead to root rot.

The layer of mulch protecting plants from frost should be at least 7 centimeters. In addition to mulch, non-woven material, such as spunbond, is used.

Caring for remontant strawberries after picking berries

Remontant strawberries differ from standard varieties in that they produce several harvests per year. Proper care guarantees not only abundant harvests, but also the formation of new bushes, which allows you to quickly grow this variety on the site.

To get the second and third good result, flower stalks must be thinned out.

After each fruiting, reddened and diseased leaves are removed from the bushes. The first order whiskers remain on the mother bush. It is best to root them in prepared cups for further planting. After the end of the season, the cups are collected, the tendrils are cut off from the main bush and they can be planted in prepared beds.

When caring for remontant strawberries, watering should be done more often than when watering standard varieties, but less abundantly. For irrigation, it is better to use heated water. The soil should be moist, but not waterlogged, otherwise the strawberry root system may begin to rot.

Remontant varieties of strawberries are demanding of fertilizers and must be constantly supplied with potassium and nitrogen. When preparing the soil for planting new plants, phosphorus fertilizers are added.

After harvesting the last autumn harvest from the plants, it is necessary to cut off all the foliage and flower stalks and cover the bushes with a special non-woven material that will protect the plants from frost.

Remontant strawberries, in comparison with simple varieties, have a short life span and after two years the plants must be replaced by new ones. Some varieties do not produce whiskers and are easier to care for, but they use seeds to propagate them, which complicates the breeding process.

July and August are suitable for renewing strawberry plantations. By autumn the bushes take root and easily endure the winter.

In preparation for winter, flower stalks and leaves are torn off from the mother bushes. The bushes are earthed up so that the roots are covered with soil. But the core must remain open, otherwise it will begin to rot. The prepared beds are covered with leaves and grass.

In addition to the standard growing method, remontant strawberries can grow on trellises, columns, and in tunnels.

To protect plants, protective plants, such as corn, are planted on trellises on both sides of the strawberries, which remain overwinter and additionally save the strawberries from freezing.

After the last fruiting, the strawberries are covered with breathable non-woven material, which saves the plantings from freezing. When grown in tunnels, fruiting lasts until the first frost.

During the warm period of Indian summer, the covering material is raised on one side for air circulation. Even when temperatures drop under the material, strawberries fully ripen and do not lose their taste.

And remontant, and this especially applies to the period after fruiting, as the plants become depleted, grow and may begin to hurt.

With careful and careful care, the yield increases, the size of the berries of even small varieties becomes larger, the fruits are saturated with moisture and sweetness.

And in every region, even quite cool ones, you can choose suitable option, which will delight you with a tasty and aromatic harvest.

Every gardener loves to harvest large harvests of strawberries. But its cultivation does not end there. In this article you can find out what actions are necessary to prepare strawberries for the new harvest season.

Many gardeners who grow strawberries on their plots will not be able to answer how strawberries develop after harvesting and what to do after fruiting. But proper care of strawberries after picking the berries becomes the basis good harvest next year. It is necessary to carry out preparatory measures in the fall.

Strawberry

Strawberries begin to bloom and bear fruit very early. Around the middle of the season, the first berries begin to ripen. However, during this time, the plants simply would not be able to obtain all the necessary substances in sufficient quantities to form sweet and large berries.

A natural question may arise here: how is such a harvest formed? The future harvest begins to form at the end of summer of the previous year. As soon as the harvest of fragrant berries is harvested, new buds begin to form, flowers grow and mustaches grow. It is very important to take care of your strawberries at this time.

Please note that different varieties of strawberries will ripen differently. The majority of varieties finish bearing fruit at the beginning of summer. However, the latest varieties of remontant strawberries can ripen until mid-August. Therefore, the timing of events may shift.

Mulching with straw

Trimming

After the end of the fruiting period, the foliage on the strawberry bushes begins to die off and be replaced by new ones. Thus, the strawberries themselves get rid of old leaves after harvesting, what should a gardener do (video) in this case? It is necessary to help the plants get rid of excess old leaves and trim them.

Reasons to get rid of leaves:

• Old leaves can no longer participate in the process of photosynthesis as effectively. They require much more nutrients to maintain them than the benefits they can bring. If the leaves begin to turn yellow and die due to their old age, then you should help the plants and carefully remove them.
• Leaves need to be removed if they have been affected by diseases or mites. Such leaves must not only be trimmed, but also burned to completely destroy the infection. Tools that will be used to trim leaves must be disinfected so as not to spread the infection to all plants.

After this procedure, it would be appropriate to feed the strawberries so that the strawberry roots have time to gain nutrients before the winter period.

During this same period, the mustache begins to actively form. When processing strawberries after harvest, it is important to know what to do with the mustache. Strawberry whiskers are a means of reproduction. If there is no need for this, then you can cut them all off. Otherwise, 1-2 best copies are left. They dig in carefully.

It is not advisable to start trimming your mustache. In this case, all the nutrients necessary for the formation of new buds will be spent on the development of mustaches and rosettes, which will still be trimmed.

Treatment of strawberry bushes should be carried out constantly, but the bulk of the work occurs in the period after fruiting. If after such treatment the strawberry bushes are completely without leaves, you should not panic. Before the onset of winter, it will have time to grow new foliage.

Weed removal

There is nothing complicated in loosening the soil, although there are some features that should be taken into account when carrying out this agricultural activity.

• The soil between the bushes is loosened thoroughly, but carefully and not deeply. The main part of the roots is located at a depth of 10 cm. It is necessary to loosen so as not to affect the roots.
• When loosening, you should lightly hill up the soil so that the side roots are underground.
• When caring for strawberries after harvest, the question may arise, what to do with weeds. Weeding and weed removal is very convenient to carry out simultaneously with loosening.

Feeding

During flowering and fruiting, it is not recommended to apply nitrogen-containing fertilizers. They promote the formation of new foliage. And this is not very good for ripening berries. But after fruiting is completed, everything changes dramatically, and fertilizers containing nitrogen are especially necessary for strawberries.

Fertilizing strawberries

Watering

Before the onset of winter, watering should be carried out regularly. Watering is very important for caring for strawberries after fruiting; what to do next and how to water correctly can be found below.

• The soil must be kept moist. This can be ensured by regular watering.
• Frequent and superficial watering does not give the desired result. It is better to water strawberries rarely, but abundantly. Heavy watering every 7-10 days is considered optimal.
• To protect the soil from drying out quickly, it should be mulched with peat or use non-woven covering material.
• Watering should be done in the morning or evening, otherwise the strawberry leaves may get burned.

Carrying out proper irrigation after harvesting will have a positive impact on the quality of the crop that can be obtained in the next harvest year.

Treatment for diseases and insects

Diseases and insects can cause enormous damage to strawberry plantings. In some cases, this can lead to the complete destruction of all plants. Therefore, it is necessary to treat plantings annually against the most common pests and diseases. It is better to do this after harvesting so as not to disturb the flowering and ripening of the berries. How signs of disease appear on strawberries after harvest, and what to do (video) to combat them, can be found below.

Diseases

Powdery mildew

• Powdery mildew. The disease occurs quite often and manifests itself in the form of white plaque. Fungal spores overwinter in the affected parts of plants and are carried by the wind when favorable conditions occur. May lead to slower development of berries and further drying.
• Gray rot. A small spot of gray or brown color begins to appear on the berries, on which a gray mossy coating then forms. Such berries begin to rot very quickly and become unsuitable for food. On foliage such signs are much less common.
• Brown spot. The fungus develops on old leaves from mid-summer. A sign of the disease is the formation of brown spots. The fungus negatively affects the formation of flower buds, which can have a bad effect on the future harvest.
• Late blight rot. Brown spots appear on the berries, which gradually spread to the entire surface of the berries. The berries themselves acquire a bitter taste and fall off. Dark green spots of heterogeneous shapes form on the foliage.
• White spotting. It manifests itself in the appearance of brown spots on any part of the strawberry bush. Later the spots turn white. The fungus reduces the yield of bushes on which it has managed to develop.

Pests

Pests can cause the destruction of the entire crop. They easily overwinter in plants, and in the spring they begin to feed on their juices. Therefore, it is very important to know the signs of their appearance on strawberries after harvest, and what to do to get rid of these pests.

Spider mite

• Nematodes. Small and poorly distinguishable worms that usually live in the soil. They reproduce very quickly. They stick to accessible parts of the plant, feeding on its juices and poisoning it with their enzymes. They are very difficult to remove, and in advanced cases it is necessary to change the soil.
• Strawberry mite. Quite a small insect. Overwinters at the base of leaves. Mite larvae feed on plant sap, after which they become wrinkled and yellowish, and then die off altogether.
• Strawberry-raspberry weevil. A small black beetle, only 3 mm long. They overwinter under the remains of leaves. With the onset of warmth, young individuals begin to feed on leaves and buds. As flowering begins, female beetles begin to lay eggs in the buds.
• Small black mower. Small black bugs, up to 5 mm long. They overwinter underground, where they lay eggs. The larvae prefer to feed on roots, and the young beetles prefer to feed on leaves.

Prevention

The best way to protect your crop from pests and insects is to take preventive measures.

The structure of a strawberry bush

• Growing resistant varieties will help protect plants from diseases and pests.
• It is not for nothing that compliance with the rules of crop rotation is considered fundamental in gardening. You can grow strawberries in one place for no more than 2 years in a row. Then it should be transplanted to another place.
• Most strawberry diseases are fungal. Therefore, after harvesting, the area can be treated with fungicides for preventive purposes. This is strongly recommended if signs of disease have been detected
• The use of insecticides will help destroy most insects that live on plants and feed on their juices. This procedure should be carried out after harvesting so as not to interfere with flowering and not turn the berries into an inedible poison.
• Weeds often harbor pests, so they need to be removed from the area as soon as possible.

Compliance with these simple rules will help prepare strawberry bushes for winter, and in the spring the efforts spent will pay off in the form of a rich harvest. Knowing how strawberries develop after harvest and what to do (video) after removing all the berries, you can develop the optimal plan for growing these plants.

Any gardener simply must know how to care for strawberries after harvesting, otherwise about large, juicy berries you can't even dream. Strawberries respond favorably to care and care, giving an abundance of tasty and tender fruits.

Strawberry harvest time

Remontant strawberries begin to bloom in May, continuing until October. The first fruiting occurs in early June, depending on the growing region, the second harvest occurs in July, and the third in August. Disposable early varieties can bear fruit as early as May. There are a lot of varieties, and each of them has its own fruiting period, for example, the Flamenco variety begins to bear fruit only in August and ends in December. Therefore, everything is quite arbitrary.

Care after first fruiting

To strawberry ( garden strawberries) bears fruit well and requires almost all-season care. It is a mistake to think that after harvesting strawberries do not need anything, here it is quite the opposite - the bushes need special manipulations for restoration. Proper care of strawberries after fruiting helps to increase yield by at least 15-40%. Thanks to correctly performed preventive work, the fruits become larger, juicier and tastier.

Care after the first fruiting of strawberries

Care after harvest in July

The strawberries have borne fruit; what to do next is one of the most common questions in gardening. Everything is actually quite simple. After harvesting strawberries in the summer, the following manipulations are carried out:

• weeding;
• mustache trimming;
• removing dried, dry leaves;
• feeding;
• hilling.

First of all, the beds are weeded to remove weeds, then the dry leaves are disposed of and the tendrils begin to be cut off. Red leaves must be removed.

Attention! Under no circumstances should they tear off the leaves or tendrils - the bush will be damaged and begin to get sick; special garden scissors and pruning shears are used for manipulation.

If there are young curling leaves or their wavy configuration, the crop must be treated with anti-mite drugs, since these signs indicate the presence of Tarsonemus fragariae.

After you have finished trimming the mustache, remove the old mulch, loosen the soil, fertilize it, and water it. Near the plants, loosening is done to a depth of 5 cm, and between rows - up to 10 cm.

Then they hill up the bushes, the roots of which must be completely covered, and the tops must be above the ground. In particular, this applies to older plants, in which over time the root system tends to protrude above the ground.

Feeding and watering

The bushes need to be fed with mineral fertilizers with the addition of microelements. For one sq. m - on average 30 g of fertilizers. Fertilizers intended for strawberries are suitable for this purpose: ammophoska, fertika. They are embedded to a depth of 6 cm. It is forbidden to use fertilizer that contains potassium chloride, as it slows growth and impairs fruiting.

They also use well-rotted humus, scattering it on top of the soil - it improves the structural parameters of the soil and fertility. Chicken droppings diluted in water (in a ratio of 1:15) are used with caution, avoid getting on the leaves to avoid burns. High concentrations are detrimental to bushes.

Watering is carried out until the end of the summer season, at least once a week (1 bucket per sq. m.). The best effect is achieved by drip irrigation - the soil does not become waterlogged, the plants do not rot, resulting in required amount moisture.

Watering strawberries

Berry care in August

Proper care of strawberries after harvest will help ensure a bountiful harvest in the future. August fits best in this regard.

Care in the last month of summer consists of:

• pruning leaves;
• mustache transplantation;
• protection from diseases and pests;
• preparing strawberries for winter.

All old leaves are cut off (early, middle and late varieties are processed in turn). By overgrowing, bushes increase the chances of diseases and pests. When trimming the tendrils, leave at least 10 cm at the base of the plant. For planting, only healthy, strong antennae are used. To improve the fertility of strawberries, the strongest tendril is left on the bushes, from which a new mother bush will grow to replace the old one. This manipulation is carried out every 3 years.

In August, preventive and therapeutic measures are carried out against fungi, pests and powdery mildew. It is necessary to treat the bushes with preparations of your choice: “Aktellik”, “Karbofos” (protects against strawberry mite, weevil), “Azotsen”, “Topaz” (fights powdery mildew). The use of a one percent solution of lime and copper sulfate is effective against rot.

Preparing for winter

Fertilizing in August increases the frost-resistant qualities of the plant and promotes the formation of flower buds. At this stage, the plant needs nitrogen-containing fertilizers. Complex mineral fertilizers should include: nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, in a ratio of 1:2:4. Ready-made ones will do: “Fasco”, “Autumn”, “Autumn”. The latter, in turn, does not contain nitrogen and can be used in later periods. Among organic materials, preference is given to peat, horse manure in granules, bone meal and humus.

The “fed” strawberries are mulched. Leaves, pine needles, straw are used for winter shelter. potato tops. The insulation procedure is carried out in warm, dry weather, otherwise the layer will cake and contribute to the development of diseases inside or rotting of the root system. The layer covering the plant for autumn and winter should be at least seven centimeters. In addition to mulch, non-woven material (spunbond, for example) is used.

Important! Bird droppings contraindicated, otherwise an excess of nitrogen is possible.

Preparing strawberries for winter

Features of caring for reusable strawberries

A permissive attitude towards strawberries after the first harvest is extremely unacceptable, otherwise the future harvest will be in great doubt. The very first harvest, even if insignificant, deprives the plant of many nutrients and strength, and by the end of fruiting it is in a fairly noticeable depleted state.

After harvest:

• the area is well loosened;
• get rid of weeds;
• feed;
• remove the mustache.

You need to start these procedures as early as possible, before the strawberries have grown too much. The roots should not look out; be sure to cover them with soil.

Top dressing

Strawberries respond favorably to herbal infusions and yeast nutrition. A good effect is obtained from nettle extract, which is prepared as follows: 2/3 of the container is filled with finely chopped nettles, dandelion leaves, and common grass (the flowers are removed to prevent the appearance of weeds), then filled with water, sealed and left in the open sun. The result is a mixture that is disgusting in smell and appearance, but at the same time very useful for the crop. The resulting consistency is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10 and applied to the beds. Yeast is added to the herbal infusion.

Watering is carried out until the end of the summer season.

Yellowed and dying leaves of bushes are removed. A controversial issue arises regarding young, intensively growing greenery: gardeners are divided into half, one of which believes that removing foliage contributes to better formation of flower stalks, while the other, on the contrary, argues that bushes after such procedures noticeably weaken, since photosynthesis is much reduced when removing greenery .

Fertilizing strawberries

Removing a mustache

After the first harvest, the mustache grows with excellent speed and strength, while taking a lot of strength from the strawberries. Rooted tendrils contribute to the formation of new bushes, which contribute to additional harvest. It is for this reason that the second fee is allocated big amount berries At the same time, summer residents emphasize that offspring should be expected only from the first shoots, which can be determined by size; subsequent shoots will not produce a harvest this year. Therefore, only the first tendrils are left, and the rest are cut off to save the plant’s energy for the formation of berries.

Removing bushes

Reusable strawberries have two divisions: DSD (long daylight hours) and NSD (neutral daylight hours). The first bears fruit for 2-3 years, the last - only one season, after which the bushes are changed.

Preparing for the winter season

DSD plants are covered with insulating materials (straw, grass, pine needles) for the winter.

The NSD strawberry will need to be transplanted to a new place of residence. The procedure includes the following nuances:

1. old bushes are removed from the garden beds before the first frost arrives;
2. seedlings are transferred to the new territory no later than August - September, so that by the time of arrival subzero temperatures young bushes are well rooted;
3. The planting material is mustaches cut from the mother bushes;
4. flowers that appear on the bushes are removed;
5. after the second frost, the strawberry bushes are cleared of all foliage, and the beds are covered with insulation (straw, fallen leaves, sawdust).

Spring care of remontant varieties

Caring for remontant strawberries in the spring does not have any special features; the berries, like at any other time of the year, require: watering, regular loosening, timely disposal of weeds, fertilizing and treatment against diseases and pests.

In early spring, dry, yellow and diseased leaves are removed from last year's remontant strawberries. They feed ammonium nitrate soil.

The first fruiting is characterized by lower quality berries, so gardeners recommend removing flowers during the first flowering, saving the plant's strength, then the second fruiting will be very productive.

Spring care remontant varieties strawberries

Correct manipulations can increase the yield of berries significantly. Simple, but very effective advice from experienced summer residents:

• Maintain crop rotation: strawberry bushes quickly age and lose productivity; it is not advisable to grow them in the same area for more than 4 years. The best option is to change the bed every year.
• Rotation of varieties: systematic updating of the assortment with new species prevents pathogens from adapting to the immune profile of varieties;
• Weedy strawberries are mercilessly removed: these varieties may have barren flowers, small unattractive berries or not bloom at all, are distinguished by powerful growth of greenery and tendrils, and muffle the “good” bushes.
• Proper propagation: a new bed is made from part of your own bushes and part of purchased ones.

The kind of care you provide to strawberries will result in the same harvest, since it is an important component for the formation of juicy, large and healthy berries.