Electrical wiring diagram in the apartment: electrical wiring for different rooms. Electrical wiring diagram: design, analysis of abbreviations and symbols (115 photos) Where to start

Installing or replacing electrical wiring is an extremely important matter that requires special treatment. Once laid, the cable will have to serve the tenant for decades. Uninterrupted operation and safety directly depend on the quality of work performed. And a well-designed electrical wiring diagram is one of the most important and primary tasks of all electrical installation procedures.

Before you start designing an electrical wiring diagram in a private or apartment building, office or other premises, it would be useful to think carefully. The main problem that most people face is a poor understanding of the placement of sockets, switches and other points.

One has only to outline a possible common situation, and it becomes clear why it is so important to pay special attention to the smallest details already at the design stage. Let's say the wiring is laid, everything is connected and cosmetic repairs are made to the room. It's time to install and arrange the furniture. But it turns out that one socket is hidden behind the closet, the other behind the sofa.

But where various equipment is located, on the contrary, there are no sockets. So what should you do in this case? Pull extension cords? But this will not only spoil the appearance of the new home, but also create a lot of inconvenience. You will feel it especially well when you have to catch on the wires stretched throughout the house a couple of times. But it is quite possible to avoid such situations if, already at the stage of creating the project, you take into account the location of furniture, equipment and some other nuances.

Create a schema

When everything is calculated, you can move on to drawing up the diagram itself. And here you will need colored pencils, pens or markers, a sheet of paper and a ruler.

Of course, if you already have experience creating such diagrams, then you can easily get by with just a pen and a piece of paper, but for less experienced people it is better to use several colors, so that in the process it will be easier to understand what is where.

It is best to start with the power part, that is, with sockets, switches and wiring boxes. But first you need to draw a standard plan of the apartment or house itself. It is not necessary to strictly observe the dimensions and scale - the main thing is that all rooms are displayed. Next, furniture and appliances are drawn. Moreover, it is better to highlight electrical consumers in some other color. For example, red. After all, in these places or somewhere nearby there will have to be an outlet.

As a rule, switches are installed at door openings - they also need to be drawn on the diagram. The main thing is not to confuse the side of the wall, and place such parts where needed. Don't forget about the symbols. There are icons accepted and used in the professional environment, which are used in electrical wiring diagrams. It will be better if they are in the drawing. But on a separate piece of paper, for yourself, you can draw such symbols with an explanation.

The next step is to draw up the final version of the scheme. And here you will need another piece of paper, where you again need to draw a plan of the building, but without furniture. But sockets and switches must be marked. In order not to miss anything, and to correctly draw up the wiring diagram in the apartment, it should display:

• Single and double key switches.
• Sockets.
• Junction boxes.
• Power shield.

Lighting

The next stage of drawing up the diagram will be to indicate the location of all lighting points, that is, chandeliers, lanterns, sconces, lamps and others. In the drawing they will also be indicated by a special symbol: a circle with lines crossed diagonally. If the wires in the room are simply changed and the location of the lamps is known, then, after taking measurements, you can mark their location and distance from the wall with the junction box on the diagram.

The process looks a little more complicated if the wiring is being laid for the first time and the location of the lighting fixtures is not known. It is customary that the main lamp or chandelier is located in the center of the room. All that remains is to correctly calculate where it is:

• Measure the distance from wall to wall in width and divide by two.
• Measure the distance from wall to wall along the length and also divide by two.
• The crosshair of these values ​​will point to the center of the room.

Pay attention to wall decoration for economic reasons. If the plaster is applied in a thin layer, then you will have to make vertical grooves. And this is not easy and time-consuming work. If the plaster is laid down in a thick layer, then you can lay and fasten the cable directly to the wall, then it will hide in it. It's even easier with drywall. Here the cable is placed in a corrugated, non-flammable tube and placed behind a plasterboard covering.

Attention is paid to the finishing of ceilings for the same reasons. If you plan to simply level it, you will have to run the cable to the lamps in the slab. To do this, you will need to make additional holes in the ceiling sheet and draw a line until it reaches the lamp. And this is more difficult than it might seem when planning. It’s a different matter if the ceilings are suspended or suspended. In this case, it is enough to place the cable in a special corrugated non-flammable tube, and then just secure it to the ceiling.

Load-bearing walls, as a rule, are always concrete, which complicates working with them. And it is simply prohibited to violate their integrity, so it is preferable to conduct all wiring through the partitions. During electrical installation, floor slabs often have to be overcome. And this must be taken into account when drawing up the electrical wiring diagram for the room.

Firstly, here it is worth additionally taking into account the cable length for the bypass. And secondly, if you run wiring through a window or door, it will not only be more difficult technically, but also fraught with troubles in the future. After all, the wiring above the window opening can easily be damaged if you need to hang a curtain rod.

Thus, knowing the amount of cable and having an idea of ​​the electrical work to be done, you can save a lot of money both financially and physically, spending less effort.

Transfer to drawing

Now all measurements and calculations need to be transferred to the drawing. Given the known data, this will not be difficult to do. A good start would be combine two (power and lighting) existing circuits into one.

Choose any room, and place a junction box near the exit. They begin to pull the cable from it. In the diagram, all cables are simply indicated by straight lines. Consequently, taking into account how the cable will be laid, a straight line is drawn on the diagram along the route of its passage.

The easiest place to start is with sockets. And it is on them that the lines from the junction box should be drawn. If there are double, triple or more sockets installed in the room, then running one cable to them and then throwing a cable is not very correct. It is better to supply each of them with a separate wire from the junction box. For convenience and savings, this can be installed directly above the sockets themselves.

Now you can draw a line on the lighting fixture, that is, the chandelier. From the same junction box they draw a wire to the lamp. It is important to consider how the ceiling will be processed. After all, there may be a chance to save cable. Next, draw a line from the switch to the box. The main thing is not to confuse which way the door will open. It is necessary that the switch is immediately accessible, and not located behind a door or cabinet.

All the wires in the wiring diagram are connected in one place, which is indicated as a small circle - a junction box. For convenience, it can be highlighted in a different color. Other rooms are sketched similarly.

The power cabinet is usually installed either at the entrance to the apartment or in the vestibule room. One wire is output from the panel to each room to power the outlets and one to power the lighting. In the diagram, it is preferable to designate the cable for sockets in one color, and the second for lighting.

It is also worth considering here some other nuances. So, if an electric stove is used, it is better to allocate a separate group for it and run its own cable. Separate sockets can also be made for a washing machine and other energy-intensive appliances.

If the wiring is changed in a wooden house, then you will have to take into account that the walls will be made of wood, so the cable must additionally be placed in a corrugated metal or plastic non-flammable tube. Otherwise, everything depends on the covering of the walls, ceiling and layout of the country house.

What should be the electrical wiring diagram in a private house under construction? How to properly distribute wires throughout all rooms? I will tell you what wiring cross-sections modern electrical appliances need, and how to provide protection against electric shock and short circuits. And as a bonus, I’ll clearly explain how to connect a voltage stabilizer and generator to your home panel.

Required elements

Let's start with the main thing - with protective elements. The electrical panel in your home should include:

Image	Element
	General switch or circuit breaker at the input, breaking the phase and neutral wires.
	Residual current device(RCD), which is triggered when current leaks through damaged insulation, when a person or pet touches the terminals or wires. Its sensitivity should allow it to respond to a leakage current of 30 mA.
	Slot machines for certain consumer groups (sockets in a separate room, lighting, boiler, electric stove, etc.). The circuit breaker is placed on the phase wire and trips when the rated current is exceeded. Its task is to prevent overheating and fire of the wiring.

The tripping current of the circuit breaker must minimally exceed the calculated peak load on the wiring section. Let's say, for a circuit with a peak power consumption of 5 kW, it is worth choosing a 25 ampere machine (which at a voltage of 220 volts corresponds to a power of 25x220 = 5500 W).

Grounding is provided with a separate terminal block for all sockets and metal housings of electrical appliances. The ground wire must not be interrupted by switches or connectors. The source of ground can be the body of the shield (if there is ground at the input) or electrodes buried in the ground.

Accessories

The following are often connected to the panel:

• Voltage regulator, providing stable parameters of the current supplying household appliances in case of serious deviations from the nominal value at the input.

It makes sense to install a stabilizer only on certain groups of consumers who are most sensitive to power (this includes televisions, computers, audio equipment, refrigerators, etc.). Powerful heating devices (boilers and electric stoves) operate over a wide voltage range and, when it drops, only proportionally reduce power consumption.

• Generator, allowing you to switch to autonomous power supply when the lights are turned off with minimal time.

What will be the wiring diagram in each of these cases?

Stabilizer

The stabilizer is connected to the phase wire break. Zero remains common with the meter and consumers. The stabilizer housing is connected to a common ground.

Generator

The actual power switching is ensured by a reversing switch having three operating positions:

1. The consumer is powered from the input;
2. The consumer is disconnected from both current sources;
3. The consumer is powered by the generator.

The signal lamp (LS-47) is needed to indicate the mains voltage. It will allow you to notice the moment the light turns on without the help of measuring instruments (multimeter or indicator screwdriver).

Normative documents

How to install wiring in a house taking into account all the requirements of regulatory documentation? The source of information for us will be SNiP 31-02 (design of engineering systems of cottages) and the manual of the Ministry of Construction of Russia, which supplements its requirements, released in 1997 and again regulating the construction of engineering systems of single-family houses.

For the convenience of the reader, I will bring together the relevant and most important points of both documents for us.

• Installation of electrical wiring in a private house must be carried out with a grounding loop. The ground must be separate: the neutral wire cannot be used as it;

• Power limit determined by the owner of the house. The minimum values ​​are 5.5 kW in a house without electric heating systems and electric stoves and 8 kW if they are present. If the total area of ​​the house exceeds 60 square meters, the minimum input power increases by one percent for each square meter of area in excess of 60;

The local administration may limit the maximum power depending on the condition of the local power grid and the capabilities of the substation.

• Open wiring can be performed directly on walls and other building structures, as well as in boxes and baseboards with cable ducts. In this case, open wires without protective tubes or ducts are mounted on building structures at a height of at least 2 meters;
• Hidden wiring Can be mounted at any height in ceilings and walls. We allow its installation in structures made of flammable materials;

• For wiring installation Only copper wires can be used. With the same cross-section as aluminum, they provide almost twice the resistivity, which means less heating at high currents;
• Wires and cables in protective sheaths can be passed through walls without bushings and pipes. The output of the unsheathed input cable through external walls is carried out in a plastic tube;

The pipe is installed with a slope towards the street to prevent leakage through the wire into the house.

• Electrical wiring in the house should not experience mechanical stress in places of branches and connections. All wire connections are insulated, and the thickness of the insulation should not be less than the thickness of the insulation of a solid wire;
• At connection points hidden wiring to sockets, junction boxes, switches and lamps, the wire must have at least a 5-centimeter reserve length. The supply will be useful when replacing fittings or repairing wiring;
• If the wiring goes from a dry room to a damp one(shower room, toilet, etc.), all connections are installed from the dry room side. There should be no junction boxes in the bathroom;
• Recommended installation height sockets - 80-100 cm, switches - 1.5 meters from the floor level;

In my opinion, it is much more convenient to adhere to European standards: 90 cm for switches and 25 cm for sockets. Low-lying sockets will allow you to get rid of household appliance wires hanging untidy on the walls, and switches will be accessible even to a child who has recently started walking.

• In a dacha made of timber or logs, in a frame house and on a wooden In the attic, do-it-yourself electrical wiring is done in a metal pipe (steel, copper or corrugated stainless steel). Even if a short circuit occurs, it will not cause a fire: before the pipe has time to heat up to a dangerous temperature, the machine will turn off the power to the circuit;

• Switches are set to phase. Zero does not open;
• When distributing one group line to several outlets, the ground branches off to each of them(either in the junction box or in the socket housing). It is impossible to connect the ground in series to several sockets;

• Metal enclosures in damp areas lamps and other electrical appliances must be grounded. If the lamp is hung on a metal hook, it must be insulated from the body (for example, with a plastic shell) so that in the event of a breakdown on the metal parts of the lamp, a phase does not occur on the entire reinforcement of the reinforced concrete structures of the house;

However: a device with a two-pin plug belonging to electrical safety class zero can be connected to an outlet without grounding, only to zero and phase. In this case, the installation of electrical wiring must be carried out with an RCD on the corresponding line: it will turn off the power in the event of leaks accompanying electric shock to a person or animal.

• If the sockets in the apartment or house are installed at a height accessible to children, they need to be protected with lids or plugs;

• Hidden wiring should not be placed on chimneys and heating panels with an operating temperature above 35 degrees: vinyl insulation of the wiring has limited heat resistance and softens when heated;
• Wires must not cross. The reason is the same: during peak currents, the insulation at the intersection may overheat;
• Switches placed at the entrance to the room, from the side of the door handle.

A number of document requirements specifically stipulate electrical installation in rooms with high humidity:

1. If possible, wiring should be routed to adjacent, dry rooms. The lamps are placed on the wall closest to the input;
2. For lighting with incandescent lamps, lamps with housings made of dielectric materials (plastic, ceramics, etc.) should be used.

What should the wire cross-section be? SNiP 31-02 specifies only lower limits:

• Copper group lines - not less than 1 mm2;
• Aluminum group lines - not less than 2.5 mm2;
• Copper risers and circuits to which the meter is connected are at least 2.5 mm2;
• The same risers and chains, but aluminum - at least 4 square millimeters.

First, examples of a cottage wiring diagram.

Now - some practical tips on how to do electrical wiring in the house.

Wires

I recommend making connections to the meter and input using single-wire copper wire VVG with a cross-section of at least 4 square millimeters per core with an input power of up to 10 kW and 6 mm2 with an input power of 10 - 15 kW.

In other areas the following are used:

• For wiring sockets - VVG 3x2.5 mm2;
• For lighting distribution - VVG 3x1.5 mm2.

It is better not to use stranded wire: its price is slightly higher than that of single-wire wire, and it provides a smaller area of ​​electrical contact on the terminal blocks.

In general, the cross-section of hidden wiring is calculated as 1 square millimeter of copper per 8 amperes of peak current, open - 1 mm2 per 10 A.

Connections

Do-it-yourself electricians are most easily mounted on brass blocks: they reliably connect the ends of the wires and, unlike sleeves and welding, leave the connection detachable. If necessary, you can connect an additional socket to the distribution box at any time.

Wiring

In my opinion, it is most convenient to lay the wiring in a baseboard with a cable duct. Why? Here are the arguments:

• Installation of wiring in this case practically does not involve dirty work. In the worst case, you will have to drill a series of holes for dowel-screws securing the baseboard;
• The wiring remains accessible for repair, and there is no need to open the walls to replace a section of it;
• If you need to connect an additional socket, it will not require much effort: you just need to strip the wire and install three blocks on it (zero, ground and phase), making a branch.

Conclusion

Now you know what the wiring diagram might look like and how to install it correctly. As always, the video in this article will provide you with additional materials. I look forward to your comments and additions to it. Good luck, comrades!

Any work related to electricity requires a serious, competent approach, therefore wiring diagram in the apartment, must be well thought out and executed with high quality. It is with the electrics that renovations begin in a new apartment or house. Any major home renovation should begin with it. The main stages of repair are as follows. First, wires are laid along all the walls, then they become overgrown primer, painting mesh,plaster, putty and wallpaper. Under this thick layer,

The electrical wiring will remain in place for decades. That is why, before installing it, you need to think very carefully about the future wiring diagram in the apartment.

Where to start

As a rule, at the first stages of renovation, people usually have little idea of ​​the final result. And for proper electrical wiring, it would be very desirable to present it. Since the functionality and logic of the location of sockets, switches, lighting, and, in general, all wiring in general will depend on this. The electrical wiring diagram in a private house or apartment should always start the same way, with drawing up an electrical plan. And that's why. Let’s say you made a repair, but didn’t think much about the end result, as the electrician advised, so you did. All is ready. We put the furniture in its place, arranged the consumer electronics, and what did we get? Catastrophe! All sockets turned out to be in cold reserve, one was blocked by a closet, another by a sofa, a third by a chest of drawers and a fourth by a bedside table, even near the TV and favorite stereo system, as by the law of meanness, there were no sockets within a radius of 3-4 meters. And here begins a very fun and exciting game called, scatter extension cords and pilots throughout the apartment. The question is, why did you make new electrical wiring so that you could then walk around and trip over extension cords? Of course no. And in an apartment, this is half the trouble, but an incorrectly executed electrical wiring diagram in a private house promises more global consequences. After all, if in apartments, wiring changes on average every 20-25 years, then in private residential buildings, much less often or never at all. And how many extension cords are needed for a two or three story house, and there are still more of them Do I need to buy it, how much money will it cost? And how many nerves will be spent every time, like you again, you'll stumble about the pilot wire lying on the floor.

What to do? Sit down and think calmly, decide on the arrangement of furniture and household electronics. Be sure to note what new electrical appliances you plan to purchase in the coming years. For example: an air conditioner, a dishwasher, a freezer, an electric water heater, an electric oven or hob, and so on, and where, after these acquisitions, existing cabinets, sofas and bedside tables can be moved. Consult with your family, wife and children; in practice, their advice turns out to be very useful.

Drawing a diagram - power part

The installation of electrical wiring from the very beginning to the end is described in as much detail as possible, with all explanations and pictures, in a step-by-step guide

So, you've made your decision. Now, you need to put all your ideas and plans on paper. We draw a plan of your premises. How to do it? Let's take a standard one-room apartment as an illustrative example. To complete the scheme we need:

• notebook sheet
• ruler
• pen
• colored pencils or markers

The diagram shows the location of the walls and doorways. No specific dimensions required, just a general idea.
Here we have a diagram of the apartment. Simple and clear.

To make it clear what we are talking about, I will number and label the rooms:

• Room 1 - hall
• room 2 - kitchen
• room 3 - bathroom
• room 4 - hallway

Now, we need to draw on our diagram the locations of furniture and household appliances.

Items marked in red are consumers of electricity, which means we will need sockets in these places. Now, we simplify the diagram, remove the furniture, and draw designation of sockets on the diagram.
This is the diagram we should get.

Now, let's clarify the conventions that we have used and will continue to use in our diagrams.

• I will duplicate the signatures, from top to bottom:
• socket
• double socket
• single-key switch
• two-gang switch
• lamp, chandelier, light bulb
• end of the wire for further connection of equipment
• power shield

Specific dimensions and locations of sockets will need to be indicated on the diagram as soon as you have finally decided on the placement of furniture and equipment.

Drawing a diagram - lighting part

In our example, all chandeliers and lamps will be located in the center of the room. Let's start drawing with room number 1 - the hall. The coordinates of the location of the lamps, length and width, if the exact dimensions of the room are available, can be indicated immediately. For our example, there are no specific dimensions, so we will take all the necessary measurements during the first stage of installation - marking. For example, I’ll show you how to find the center of a room. First, measure the width of the room and divide the resulting value in half. For example, if the width turns out to be 4 meters, we divide it in half, 4: 2 = 2, it turns out to be 2 meters.
Now, measure the length of the room and also divide it in half. For example, the length is 6 meters, divide in half, 6: 2 = 3, it turns out 3 meters. We know the coordinates of the middle. Using the given values, we mark the center of the room. I marked it with a cross.
Similarly, we mark out all the other rooms.
We divide the L-shaped room, number 4 (hallway), into two parts and also mark it out.
Now, we replace the crosses with the symbols of the lamps and get this picture.
To complete our diagram, we need to draw switches. To do this, we need to think again and decide, this time, on the interior doors. Namely, which side they will open to, left or right, and where, inward or outward. This is done so that some kind of switch does not turn out accidentally outside the door when the repairs are done fully ready. Usually, doors are opened at the smallest angle. Here, the usefulness of the space on the left and right is taken into account, but neither forget about the furniture, the door should not rest against it. So, we decided on the doors.

Now, we can draw the switches. As a rule, switches are located inside rooms. So that when you open the door and enter the room, you can immediately turn on the light, and turn it off when leaving. Control of the light in a particular room will be entirely in the hands of the person in it. We went to bed, turned off the light, but did not need to leave the room. Comfortable. The exception is damp and damp areas, such as the bathroom and toilet. Here, the switches are taken outside, since the constant entry of moisture into the switch will lead to its rapid failure.

We draw switches on the diagram using conditionaldesignations. Before you begin installing the electrical wiring, you will need to indicate on the diagram the specific dimensions of the switches, the height and distance from the edge of the door.

So, in the end we got two pictures:

1. socket layout diagram
2. diagram of lamps and switches

The first stage is completed. Based on its results, we have the first and main part of the electrical circuit.

Stage two, wiring diagram

To begin with, you need to calculate and think through the route of laying the wire in detail. To do this, you need to carefully examine the room in which installation is planned. Know exactly what finishing and finishing work will be done. What you should be interested in:
Suspended, stretch ceilings
Will the walls be plastered, if so, what will be the thickness of the layer?
For monolithic houses, you need to know which walls are load-bearing
The location of the floor slabs, how the channels run and how clean they are
Why is it important. I will explain with a specific example.
Let's say that in our one-room apartment, which we took as an example in the first part, suspended ceilings are planned. From an electrical point of view, this is simply wonderful. The fact is that now, if electrical installation work is carried out independently, you can save a lot of effort and time, as well as a lot of money, on materials. Savings occur due to the fact that now it becomes possible to choose a combined method of installing hidden electrical wiring.
We install the wire along the ceiling in a non-flammable corrugated pipe, we make descents to sockets and switches in vertical grooves.
Look at how many benefits we get using this installation method:
If the electrical wiring is being replaced, hidden, without updating the plaster layer, there is no need to do the lion's share of the hard work of making horizontal grooves for laying the wire. This type of preparatory work takes almost 50% of the time spent on the entire electrical wiring installation cycle.
There is no need to run wires through the ceiling slab channels. This laying method is used to covertly lay a wire to the center of the room to power a chandelier or lamp. We save effort and time, the channels of floor slabs are not always clean, in some situations you have to tinker.
We significantly reduce the amount of wire required. When laying it along the walls, you have to go around extra distances, installing it along the ceiling, you can lay it along the shortest path.
This example shows how the ratio of time and money spent on the entire installation cycle can change. That is why this issue should be approached so scrupulously.
What you should pay attention to if the installation of electrical wiring will be carried out using the standard installation method, hidden along the walls.
It is highly advisable to try to avoid concrete floors located above windows and doors. The first reason is that ditching them is very problematic. Second, in the future, incidents may arise when installing curtains for curtains.
It is necessary to correctly determine how the channels run in the floor slabs, since wires for chandeliers and lamps will be laid in them.
Calculate the location of distribution boxes. With the correct quantity and location, you can significantly reduce the amount of wire required for installation.
If the house is monolithic concrete, you should calculate the location of sockets and switches so that they do not fall on the supporting structures. Violating their integrity is strictly prohibited!
After we have taken into account all the points, we move on to sketching the wiring diagram. To do this, we use two schemes that we obtained in the first stage. We superimpose the diagrams on top of each other and get the overall picture.

Let's start with room number 1. Here, there will be standard ceilings for painting, therefore, the wires will be mounted on the walls, for the chandelier in the channel of the ceiling slab. In this room there will be two double sockets, one switch and a chandelier. We pull the wire, starting from the farthest corner, since it contains the first double sockets in the chain. We stop at the exit from the room, where the junction box will be located.

I would not recommend making sockets in a ribbon cable; this will significantly reduce the throughput capacity of the last socket. It will be more correct and reliable to make all connections in the junction box. Therefore, we run the wire directly, from each outlet, to the box. We sketch the route of the wire from the second double socket.

Now, we draw the route for laying the wire, from the chandelier to the junction box.

From switch to box.

All the wires are collected in one place, sketch out the location of the junction box.

Similarly, we sketch the routes for laying the wires of other rooms.
Electrical wiring in the kitchen. Here, it is possible to use the channel of the floor slab to shorten the route of the wire to one of the sockets. We pass the wires through the channel of the stove, thereby saving time and wire.

Just 15 - 20 years ago, the load on the power grid was relatively small, but today the presence of a large number of household appliances has provoked an increase in loads significantly. Old wires are not always able to withstand heavy loads and over time there is a need to replace them. Laying electrical wiring in a house or apartment is a task that requires certain knowledge and skills from the master. First of all, this concerns knowledge of electrical wiring rules, the ability to read and create wiring diagrams, as well as electrical installation skills. Of course, you can do the wiring yourself, but to do this you must adhere to the rules and recommendations outlined below.

Electrical wiring rules

All construction activities and building materials are strictly regulated by a set of rules and requirements - SNiP and GOST. As for the installation of electrical wiring and everything related to electricity, you should pay attention to the Electrical Installation Rules (abbreviated PUE). This document describes what and how to do when working with electrical equipment. And if we want to lay electrical wiring, then we will need to study it, especially the part that relates to installation and selection of electrical equipment. Below are the basic rules that should be followed when installing electrical wiring in a house or apartment:

• key electrical wiring elements such as distribution boxes, meters, sockets and switches must be easily accessible;
• Switches are installed at a height of 60 - 150 cm from the floor. The switches themselves are located in places where an open door does not prevent access to them. This means that if the door opens to the right, the switch is on the left side and vice versa. The wire to the switches is laid from top to bottom;
• It is recommended to install sockets at a height of 50 - 80 cm from the floor. This approach is dictated by flood safety. Also, sockets are installed at a distance of more than 50 cm from gas and electric stoves, as well as heating radiators, pipes and other grounded objects. The wire to the sockets is laid from bottom to top;
• the number of sockets in the room must correspond to 1 pc. for 6 m2. The kitchen is an exception. It is equipped with as many sockets as necessary to connect household appliances. Installation of sockets in the toilet is prohibited. For sockets in the bathroom, a separate transformer is installed outside;
• wiring inside or outside the walls is carried out only vertically or horizontally, and the installation location is displayed on the wiring plan;
• wires are laid at a certain distance from pipes, ceilings, etc. For horizontal ones, a distance of 5 - 10 cm from the floor beams and cornices and 15 cm from the ceiling is required. The height from the floor is 15 - 20 cm. Vertical wires are placed at a distance of more than 10 cm from the edge of the door or window opening. The distance from gas pipes must be at least 40 cm;
• when laying external or hidden wiring, it is necessary to ensure that it does not come into contact with metal parts of building structures;
• when laying several parallel wires, the distance between them must be at least 3 mm or each wire must be hidden in a protective box or corrugation;
• The wiring and connection of wires is carried out inside special distribution boxes. The connection points are carefully isolated. Connecting copper and aluminum wires to each other is strictly prohibited;
• grounding and neutral wires are secured to the devices with a bolted connection.

Electrical wiring design and diagram

Electrical wiring work begins with the creation of a project and wiring diagram. This document is the basis for future wiring of the house. Creating a project and diagram is quite a serious matter and it is better to entrust it to experienced specialists. The reason is simple - the safety of those living in a house or apartment depends on it. Project creation services will cost a certain amount, but it's worth it.

Those who are accustomed to doing everything with their own hands will have to, adhering to the rules described above, and also having studied the basics of electrical engineering, independently make a drawing and calculate the load on the network. There are no particular difficulties in this, especially if there is at least some understanding of what electric current is and what the consequences of careless handling are. The first thing you need is some symbols. They are shown in the photo below:

Using them, we make a drawing of the apartment and mark lighting points, installation locations for switches and sockets. How many and where they are installed is described above in the rules. The main task of such a diagram is to indicate the location of installation of devices and routing of wires. When creating an electrical wiring diagram, it is important to think in advance where, how much and what kind of household appliances will be installed.

The next step in creating the diagram will be to route the wires to the connection points on the diagram. It is necessary to dwell on this point in more detail. The reason is the type of wiring and connection. There are several such types - parallel, sequential and mixed. The latter is the most attractive due to the economical use of materials and maximum efficiency. To facilitate wiring, all connection points are divided into several groups:

• lighting of the kitchen, corridor and living rooms;
• toilet and bathroom lighting;
• power supply for sockets in living rooms and corridors;
• power supply for kitchen outlets;
• power supply socket for electric stove.

The above example is just one of many options for lighting groups. The main thing to understand is that if you group the connection points, the amount of materials used is reduced and the circuit itself is simplified.

Important! To simplify wiring to sockets, the wires can be laid under the floor. Wires for overhead lighting are laid inside the floor slabs. These two methods are good to use if you don’t want to scratch the walls. In the diagram, such wiring is marked with a dotted line.

The electrical wiring project also indicates the calculation of the expected current in the network and the materials used. The calculation is performed using the formula:

I=P/U;

where P is the total power of all devices used (Watt), U is the network voltage (Volts).

For example, a 2 kW kettle, 10 60 W light bulbs, a 1 kW microwave, a 400 W refrigerator. Current strength is 220 Volts. As a result (2000+(10x60)+1000+400)/220=16.5 Amperes.

In practice, the current strength in the network for modern apartments rarely exceeds 25 A. Based on this, all materials are selected. First of all, this concerns the cross-section of electrical wiring. To make your choice easier, the table below shows the main parameters of the wire and cable:

The table shows extremely accurate values, and since the current strength can fluctuate quite often, a small margin will be required for the wire or cable itself. Therefore, it is recommended that all wiring in an apartment or house be made from the following materials:

• wire VVG-5*6 (five cores and cross-section 6 mm2) is used in houses with three-phase power supply to connect the lighting panel to the main panel;
• wire VVG-2*6 (two cores and cross-section 6 mm2) is used in houses with two-phase power supply to connect the lighting panel to the main panel;
• wire VVG-3*2.5 (three cores and cross-section 2.5 mm2) is used for most of the wiring from the lighting panel to the distribution boxes and from them to the sockets;
• wire VVG-3*1.5 (three cores and cross-section 1.5 mm2) is used for wiring from distribution boxes to lighting points and switches;
• wire VVG-3*4 (three cores and cross-section 4 mm2) is used for electric stoves.

To find out the exact length of the wire, you will have to run around the house a little with a tape measure, and add another 3 - 4 meters of reserve to the result obtained. All wires are connected to the lighting panel, which is installed at the entrance. Circuit breakers are installed in the panel. Typically these are 16 A and 20 A RCDs. The former are used for lighting and switches, the latter for sockets. For an electric stove, a separate 32 A RCD is installed, but if the power of the stove exceeds 7 kW, then a 63 A RCD is installed.

Now you need to calculate how many sockets and distribution boxes you need. Everything is quite simple here. Just look at the diagram and make a simple calculation. In addition to the materials described above, you will need various consumables, such as electrical tape and PPE caps for connecting wires, as well as pipes, cable ducts or boxes for electrical wiring, and socket boxes.

Electrical wiring installation

There is nothing overly complicated about electrical wiring installation work. The main thing during installation is to adhere to safety regulations and follow the instructions. All work can be done alone. Tools for installation will require a tester, a hammer drill or grinder, a drill or screwdriver, wire cutters, pliers, and a Phillips and slotted screwdriver. A laser level will not be superfluous. Since without it it is quite difficult to make vertical and horizontal markings.

Important! When carrying out repairs and replacing wiring in an old house or apartment with hidden wiring, you must first find and, if necessary, remove the old wires. For these purposes, an electrical wiring sensor is used.

Marking and preparing channels for electrical wiring

We begin installation with markings. To do this, use a marker or pencil to place a mark on the wall where the wire will be laid. At the same time, we follow the rules for placing wires. The next step will be to mark the locations for the installation of lighting fixtures, sockets and switches, and the lighting panel.

Important! In new houses, a special niche is provided for the lighting panel. In the old ones, such a shield is simply hung on the wall.

Having finished with the markings, we proceed either to install the wiring in an open way, or to groove the walls for hidden wiring. First, using a hammer drill and a special bit, holes are cut for installing sockets, switches and distribution boxes. For the wires themselves, grooves are made using a grinder or a hammer drill. In any case, there will be a lot of dust and dirt. The depth of the groove of the groove should be about 20 mm, and the width should be such that all the wires fit into the groove without obstruction.

As for the ceiling, there are several options for solving the issue of placing and securing the wiring. The first is that if the ceiling is suspended or suspended, then all the wiring is simply fixed to the ceiling. The second is to make a shallow groove for wiring. Third, the wiring is hidden in the ceiling. The first two options are extremely simple to implement. But for the third one you will have to make some explanations. In panel houses, floors with internal voids are used; it is enough to make two holes and stretch the wires inside the floor.

Having finished with the gating, we move on to the last stage of preparation for wiring installation. Wires must be pulled through the walls to bring them into the room. Therefore, you will have to use a hammer drill to punch holes. Usually such holes are made in the corner of the room. We also make a hole for running the wire from the distribution panel to the lighting panel. Having finished gating the walls, we begin installation.

Installation of open electrical wiring

We begin the installation by installing the lighting panel. If a special niche was created for it, then we place it there; if not, then we simply hang it on the wall. We install an RCD inside the shield. Their number depends on the number of lighting groups. The assembled and ready-to-connect panel looks like this: there are neutral terminals at the top, grounding terminals at the bottom, and automatic circuit breakers are installed between the terminals.

Now we insert wire VVG-5*6 or VVG-2*6 inside. On the switchboard side, the electrical wiring is connected by an electrician, so for now we will leave it unconnected. Inside the lighting panel, the input wire is connected as follows: we connect the blue wire to zero, the white wire to the top contact of the RCD, and the yellow wire with a green stripe to ground. We connect the RCD circuit breakers to each other in series at the top using a jumper from the white wire. Now we move on to open wiring.

Along the previously outlined lines we fix boxes or cable channels for electrical wiring. Often, with open wiring, they try to place the cable channels themselves near the baseboard or vice versa, almost under the ceiling. We secure the wiring box using self-tapping screws in increments of 50 cm. We make the first and last hole in the box at a distance of 5 - 10 cm from the edge. To do this, we drill holes in the wall using a hammer drill, drive a dowel inside and secure the cable channel with self-tapping screws.

Another distinctive feature of open wiring are sockets, switches and distribution boxes. All of them are hung on the wall, instead of being built inside. Therefore, the next step is to install them in place. All you have to do is place them on the wall, mark the mounting locations, drill the holes and secure them in place.

Next we proceed to wiring the wires. We start by laying the main line and from the sockets to the lighting panel. As already noted, we use wire VVG-3*2.5 for this. For convenience, we start from the connection point towards the panel. At the end of the wire we hang a label indicating what kind of wire it is and where it comes from. Next, we lay the VVG-3*1.5 wires from switches and lighting fixtures to the distribution boxes.

Inside the distribution boxes, we connect the wires using PPE or carefully insulate them. Inside the lighting panel, the main wire VVG-3*2.5 is connected as follows: brown or red wire - phase, connected to the bottom of the RCD, blue - zero, connected to the zero bus at the top, yellow with a green stripe - grounding to the bus at the bottom. Using a tester, we “ring” all the wires to eliminate possible errors. If everything is in order, we call an electrician and connect to the distribution panel.

Installation of hidden electrical wiring

Concealed electrical wiring is quite simple. The only significant difference from the open one is the way the wires are hidden from view. Otherwise the actions are almost the same. First, we install the lighting panel and RCD circuit breakers, after which we start and connect the input cable from the side of the distribution panel. We also leave it unconnected. An electrician will do this. Next, we install distribution boxes and socket boxes inside the made niches.

Now let's move on to wiring. First we lay the main line from VVG-3*2.5 wire. If it was planned, then we lay the wires to the sockets in the floor. To do this, we insert the VVG-3*2.5 wire into a pipe for electrical wiring or a special corrugation and lay it to the point where the wire exits to the sockets. There we place the wire inside the groove and insert it into the socket box. The next step will be to lay the VVG-3*1.5 wire from the switches and lighting points to the junction boxes, where they are connected to the main wire. We insulate all connections with PPE or electrical tape.

At the end, we “call” the entire network using a tester for possible errors and connect it to the lighting panel. The connection method is similar to that described for open wiring. Upon completion, we seal the grooves with gypsum putty and invite an electrician to connect it to the distribution panel.

Installing electrical wiring in a house or apartment is quite easy for an experienced technician. But for those who are not well versed in electrical engineering, they should take the help of experienced professionals from start to finish. This, of course, will cost money, but this way you can protect yourself from mistakes that could lead to a fire.

Are you familiar with the basics of electrical engineering firsthand and have repeatedly encountered electricity in practice? Then new wiring in a small house or apartment will not become an insurmountable obstacle - you can easily install it with your own hands. To do everything correctly, you need to understand the nuances of electrical installation and determine the order of work. This material is aimed at covering these issues in an accessible form.

Drawing up a wiring diagram

Let’s make a reservation right away: we are talking about a single-phase network with a voltage of 220 volts, which is already connected to a private house with an area of ​​100-150 m² or an apartment. Specialized organizations are engaged in the design and installation of three-phase 380 V electrical networks for large country cottages. In this case, it makes no sense to take on the electrical wiring yourself, since without a power supply project and agreed-upon as-built documentation, the management company will not allow you to connect to its communications.

So, the typical electrical wiring diagram for a residential building shown above includes the following elements (starting from the cable entry):

• input circuit breaker rated 25 amperes;
• electric meter (preferably multi-tariff);
• residual current device - RCD, designed for an operating current of 300 mA;
• a 20 A differential circuit breaker, triggered at a leakage current of 30 mA, to protect the socket network;
• automatic switches rated 10 A for lighting (the number depends on the number of lines to the lamps);
• electrical cabinet equipped with a neutral and grounding bus, as well as DIN rails for mounting automatic machines and RCDs:
• cable lines with distribution boxes leading to sockets for connecting household appliances and lighting fixtures.

Note. According to the PUE, the power supply to a bathroom, bathhouse, sauna and other rooms with high humidity must be provided by a separate line, protected by an RCD or a circuit breaker with a response threshold of 10 mA.

The functional purpose of the listed elements is as follows. Circuit breakers protect branches or the system as a whole from short circuits, RCDs protect you from electric shock, and a differential circuit breaker combines these 2 functions. The latter must be installed on each power line. To protect household electrical appliances from voltage surges, you can supplement the circuit with a protective relay installed after the main RCD, as the master explains in the video:

To make a complete electrification scheme, you need to draw a house plan by hand and place lighting fixtures with sockets on it. Indicate the location of the electrical panel and spread the wiring from it along the walls, marking each pair (phase and zero) with one line, as electricians do (called a single-line diagram). An example of such a sketch is shown in the picture.

Reference. In private houses and cottages, the distribution board is usually placed in a technical room, for example, in a garage, sometimes in the corridor. The same picture is observed in multi-storey new buildings. In Soviet-era houses - "Khrushchev" and "Czech" - apartment panels were massively installed in the entrances, but then the owners began to move them to their hallways in order to protect themselves from theft of meters.

Preparation of materials

To purchase the necessary installation materials and determine their quantity, take the completed electrical diagram as a basis. The control, protection and metering elements located in the panel are already indicated on it; all that remains is to select cable products and socket boxes (switches and sockets themselves can be purchased later). The recommendations in this regard are:

1. For electrical wiring, use copper cable brand VVG with 3 solid cores and its varieties. Do not use aluminum or stranded wires (for example, PVA) intended for other purposes.
2. Copper electrical wiring in an apartment or private house that powers lighting fixtures must have a minimum cross-section of 1.5 mm². The socket network must be made with a 2.5 mm² cable, and the connection of the ground loop must be made with a cross-section of 6 mm².
3. If it is necessary to draw an external line from a pole to a building, use a 16 mm² self-supporting SIP wire and special hanging brackets.
4. For hidden cable routing, use a metal hose or a plastic corrugated pipe of the appropriate diameter (the wires should occupy no more than 40% of the cavity of the protective sleeve), fixed with latches or clamps.
5. Do not provide many single indoor sockets in different places; it is better to place a couple of blocks with 4-5 plugs. For the kitchen, one group of 5 sockets is sufficient.
6. The number of junction boxes is calculated according to the diagram below, which shows the correct installation of wiring. The box is placed on each branch from the main line.

Advice. For power lines loaded with installations with a power exceeding 3.5 kW, the cable cross-section should be selected according to calculation. We recommend that you resolve this issue with specialists, since the introductory machine and other equipment will also have to be selected individually and you cannot do without a power supply project.

Before calculating the quantity of cable products, consider the method of laying the electrical wiring. The best option is to route the conductors behind the ceiling and wall sheathing made of plasterboard, in the floor or under the baseboard. This approach will protect communications from damage during subsequent repairs and can be easily implemented in one-room and two-room apartments in panel houses.

In wooden houses built from timber or using frame technology, internal wiring of an open type is practiced - on insulators or in plastic channels, as done in the photo. In this case, it is more convenient to lay a network using a flat type of cable - VVG-P. Don’t forget about low-current lines - twisted pair for the Internet, alarms, and so on, they also need to be routed between rooms.

It is also worth mentioning the retro-style electrical wiring, which harmoniously fits into the interior of any wooden home, including a log home. But keep in mind that the price of components is three times higher than conventional materials, and the installation method shown in the video requires some skills.

Minimum tool kit

To install or replace electrical wiring with your own hands, you will need the following set of tools:

• grinder with circles on concrete for making furrows in brick or plastered walls;
• a hammer and chisel to cut out the nests of socket boxes;
• nippers, pliers;
• tape measure and building level;
• narrow metal spatula;
• screwdrivers with various slots;
• cable cutting knife.

Advice. Instead of a regular knife, it is better to use a special tool, a sample of which is shown in the photo. It is equipped with a small heel at the end, which allows you to strip the insulation from the wires without damaging the copper conductors and is safe for your hands.

Electrical panel installation

As a rule, this important stage of work is performed by a specialist – an electrician. But in a small residential or country house with several rooms, you can solve the problem yourself if you follow the step-by-step instructions:

1. Secure the box to the wall next to the cable entry. Installation height – 1.5 m above the floor. If necessary, hollow out a recess in the wall.
2. Place DIN rails for mounting the machines and 2 busbars for connecting the neutral (N) and ground (PE) wires. Lead the external cable through the hole, cut it and connect the “zero” to the bus. Repeat this action with the grounding conductor.
3. Secure the RCD, meter and all machines. Connect the neutral and phase from the power cable to the contacts of the input packet.
4. Carry out internal wiring according to the diagram, using insulated single-core wire with a cross-section of 6 mm². For reliable contact with the terminals of circuit breakers, place special fork-shaped tips on the exposed wires.

Advice. When installing conductors, observe the color markings indicating their identity. The neutral line is indicated in blue, grounding is yellow-green, and the phase is most often brown, black or red.

When purchasing and installing a cabinet for an electrical panel, you also need to take care of the placement of backup circuit breakers, which may be useful later. Therefore, there should be 3-4 free slots on the rail. All the nuances of assembling this important organ are described in the video:

How to install wiring

In past times, electrical networks were laid along the walls before applying the plaster layer and secured with alabaster mortar. Now other methods are used for installation, namely, installation in gates 2 cm deep, cut into plaster or aerated concrete. The technology is like this:

1. Using a level and a tapping cord, mark the route of each line, starting from the electrical panel. Remember that hidden electrical wiring in the house must run strictly vertically and horizontally, and turn at right angles. Mark the installation points for sockets and switches.
2. Make grooves along the markings, observing the width of the groove for a single wire - 2 cm. Cut out recesses for socket boxes and distribution boxes.
3. Install socket boxes and boxes on dowels or alabaster mortar. Try to maintain a horizontal line so that the sockets stand level. Do not forget to cut technological openings on the sides for cable entry.
4. Treat the gates with a primer and place pre-measured pieces of cable in them and bring its ends inside all the boxes. The conductors are fixed in the groove with a solution or special spacers at intervals of 40 cm.
5. Separate the ends of the wires in junction boxes and color-code them with WAGO or terminal blocks.
6. Bare the wires in the socket boxes, put lugs on them and connect them to sockets and switches.
7. Check the functionality of each line with a multimeter, then connect it to the panel and seal the grooves.

Important point. The lighting wiring is connected as follows: blue wire (N) - to the zero bus, yellow-green (PE) - to the ground bus, the remaining conductor - to the machine. The phase and neutral from the socket network are connected to contacts 1 and 2 of the differential circuit breaker, the grounding is connected to its bus.

Proper installation of wiring involves laying it according to the rules - with indentations from the floor, ceiling and doorways indicated in the drawing. In the distribution boxes of the socket group, the conductors are switched by color, in the lighting group - in this order:

• zero passes the switch and is immediately supplied to the lamp (to the contact adjacent to the lamp base);
• the phase wire goes through the switch, and then to the lighting fixture;
• the ground is connected directly to the corresponding contact of the lamp.

A pair or three pass-through switches are connected to each other and to the power cable according to a different circuit. This is discussed in detail. Watch the tutorial video