Do-it-yourself solar battery using photocells. How to make a solar battery yourself: step-by-step instructions

Many companies on the Internet sell ready-made panels that are directly connected to the consumer. But such devices are much more expensive than individual elements. Due to the peculiarity climate zone It is unlikely that you will be able to completely switch to solar electricity, so ready-made solar panels will only be able to pay for themselves in 10 to 40 years. To save on expensive factory panels, it is much more profitable to purchase photovoltaic modules, components for them and assemble the cells into a single solar battery yourself.

Which option should I choose?

The first thing you need is to purchase a photovoltaic inverter. Various models are offered by both domestic and foreign manufacturers. The cheapest options are Chinese silicon solar cells. They have a number of disadvantages, but, in comparison with American and domestic ones, they are much cheaper. All models, depending on the type, are divided into three types:

• monocrystalline modules– consist of artificially grown crystals sufficiently large sizes. They are distinguished by the highest efficiency of 13 - 26% and the longest service life of 25 years. The disadvantage of solar batteries based on them is the decrease in maximum efficiency during the period of operation.
• polycrystalline solar cells– in comparison with the previous ones, they have a much shorter service life, as the manufacturer claims – 10 years. They can also provide only 10 - 12% efficiency, in comparison with the previous ones, but this parameter remains constant for them throughout the entire period of operation.
• amorphous batteries- These are film batteries in which amorphous silicon is applied to a flexible base. Such photocells appeared relatively recently and can be glued to any surface - windows, walls, etc. They are characterized by the lowest efficiency - 5 - 6%.

Choice certain type depends on your wishes and goals. For example, if the quantity solar radiation is relatively small in your region, it is better to install monocrystalline converters, since they have the highest efficiency.

Preparation of tools and selection of materials

In addition to converters, to assemble a full-fledged solar panel you will need the following materials:

• Solder– the solar battery requires low-melting tin alloys.
• Connecting wires– single-wire copper grades are selected. Bare conductors are used to connect monocrystalline and polycrystalline wafers, and insulated conductors are used to remove electricity.
• Frame– creates the main frame in which the entire solar battery is located. It consists of a base - chipboard, USB, plywood and others, metal or wooden strips, corners and screws for connecting them.
• Glass or resin plate– create protective layer on top of monocrystalline plates, also, in combination with a frame, serve to hide elements from the effects of precipitation and mechanical influences.
• Sealant – the best material epoxy compound is used for sealing, but this is quite expensive, so it can be replaced silicone sealant.
• Accumulator battery– designed for storing electrical energy in daylight hours days for further use. There is no point in saving when choosing a battery, as a high-quality model will last much longer.
• Inverter– used to convert direct voltage to alternating voltage. A voltage converter is required to connect any type of solar battery. household appliances.

The tools you will need are a hacksaw, a drill, or a regular screwdriver for tightening screws, a multimeter or ammeter to determine the performance of a solar battery, and a soldering iron.

Drafting

At the project preparation stage, it is necessary to determine the most suitable location for installing the solar panel. Determine which side of the site is most sun rays, there is no shadow from trees and other buildings. The installation location can be on the ground, roof slopes, walls or free-standing structures. For example, if you want to install a solar panel on your roof, you need to make sure that the structure can support its weight.

Due to the fact that the maximum performance of mono- and polycrystalline cells is ensured only when the sun's rays hit them perpendicularly, it is desirable to assemble an adjustable design for them. Which will allow you to change the angle of the solar battery, depending on the time of year or even the time of day. Since the position of the light source at different periods of the year and day differ significantly (Figure 1).

Rice. 1: dependence of the position of the sun on the season

Also note that in a permanently installed battery, for example, generating 7 kW/h under ideal conditions, only 3 kW/h will be produced in the morning and evening. Accordingly, when installed in only one position, the battery will only provide rated power for a few months a year. If you decide to mount it in a stationary position, the panels should be placed at an angle of 50 to 60º; for adjustable ones, two limits are set - winter at 70º and summer at 30º, and in the intermediate period, they are tilted as stationary.

To determine the number of plates, it is necessary to calculate which electricity or the power is generated by one of them or 1 m 2. As a rule, 1 m2 produces about 125 W, so to get about 2.5 kW for domestic needs, you need to install 20 m2 of panels.

The procedure for manufacturing a solar battery

Elements based on poly- or monocrystalline silicon must be combined into a single panel. To do this, solder the contacts to the conductors. The soldering procedure is as follows:

If the solar panels you purchased are already equipped with connecting conductors, you can skip this step and go straight to making the frame.

Making a frame

The solar battery frame is a box with low sides, which is covered with transparent glass. To make a frame:

Rice. 7. Assemble the solar panel

Try to choose a material for a transparent cover without glare, otherwise some of the sun's energy will be reflected, which will significantly reduce efficiency. After making the frame, assemble the solar panel.

Manufacturing of modules

This stage requires special care and attention, since this is where you form electrical circuit solar battery. If you allow burns or cracks, you can damage not only any specific element, but also the entire module, which will eventually have to be redone.

All elements are connected sequentially from top to bottom, so as not to crush the lower ones when you solder. Solder the vertical rows onto a common bus.

After you have assembled the battery, check its functionality. Take it out into the sun and measure the current at the terminals.

Rice. 12: Take it outside and check with a multimeter

Compare this value with the previously measured value for one solar cell. To check the correctness, multiply the number of elements by the current from one, if the device shows this value or close to it, the solar battery is assembled correctly and can be sealed.

For sealing, compounds or silicone sealants are used that are suitable for temperatures below zero. To do this, the solar battery can either be completely filled or sealant can be applied only between the modules.

Rice. 13: fill with sealant

The second option is more economical, but the first will provide you with much greater reliability and better sealing. After sealing, moderate pressure is applied on top until it hardens completely.

Rice. 14: Set to moderate pressure

Before pouring, you can install a dense foam damper between the solar cells and the chipboard. The width of the foam rubber is chosen less than the height of the side; in the case under consideration, the height is 2 cm; accordingly, you can take foam rubber 1.5 cm thick. Install ready-made and tested batteries according to the drawn up project and connect to electrical network at home via battery and inverter.

Other video instructions

Living in the "Organic" style, such a popular idea in last years, presupposes a harmonious “relationship” between a person and the environment. The stumbling block to any environmental approach is the use of minerals for energy.

Emissions toxic substances and carbon dioxide into the atmosphere released during the combustion of fossil fuels are gradually killing the planet. Therefore, the concept of "green energy" that does not harm environment, is the basic basis of many new energy technologies. One of these areas for obtaining environmentally friendly energy is the technology of converting sunlight into electric current. Yes, that’s right, we will talk about solar panels and the possibility of installing autonomous energy supply systems in a country house.

At the moment, industrial power plants based on solar panels, used for the complete energy and heat supply of a cottage, cost at least 15-20 thousand dollars with a guaranteed service life of about 25 years. The cost of any helium system in recalculation of the ratio of the guaranteed service life to the average annual costs of utility maintenance country house quite high: firstly, today the average cost solar energy is comparable to the purchase of energy resources from central power grids; secondly, one-time capital investments are required to install the system.

It is usually customary to separate solar systems intended for heat and energy supply. The first uses solar collector technology, the second uses the photovoltaic effect to generate electric current in solar panels. We want to talk about the possibility of making solar panels yourself.

The technology for manually assembling a solar energy system is quite simple and affordable. Almost every Russian can assemble individual energy systems with high efficiency at relatively low costs. It's profitable, affordable and even fashionable.

Selecting solar cells for a solar panel

When starting to manufacture a solar system, you need to pay attention that with individual assembly there is no need for a one-time installation of a fully functional system; it can be expanded gradually. If the first experience was successful, then it makes sense to expand the functionality of the solar system.

At its core, a solar battery is a generator that operates on the basis of the photovoltaic effect and converts solar energy into electrical energy. Quanta of light striking a silicon wafer knock an electron out of the last atomic orbit of silicon. This effect creates a sufficient number of free electrons to form a flow of electric current.

Before assembling the battery, you need to decide on the type of photoelectric converter, namely: monocrystalline, polycrystalline and amorphous. To assemble a solar battery yourself, choose commercially available monocrystalline and polycrystalline solar modules.

Above: Monocrystalline modules without soldered contacts. Bottom: Polycrystalline modules with soldered contacts

Panels based on polycrystalline silicon have a fairly low efficiency (7-9%), but this disadvantage is offset by the fact that polycrystals practically do not reduce power in cloudy and cloudy weather; the guaranteed durability of such elements is about 10 years. Panels based on monocrystalline silicon have an efficiency of about 13% with a service life of about 25 years, but these elements greatly reduce power in the absence of direct sunlight. Efficiency indicators of silicon crystals from different manufacturers may vary significantly. Based on the practice of operating solar power plants in field conditions, we can say that the service life of monocrystalline modules is more than 30 years, and for polycrystalline modules - more than 20 years. Moreover, over the entire period of operation, the power loss for silicon mono- and polycrystalline cells is no more than 10%, while for thin-film amorphous batteries the power decreases by 10-40% in the first two years.

Evergreen Solar Cells with contacts in a set of 300 pcs.

At the eBay auction you can purchase a Solar Cells kit for assembling a solar battery of 36 and 72 solar cells. Such sets are also available for sale in Russia. As a rule, for self-assembly of solar panels, B-type solar modules are used, that is, modules rejected for industrial production. These modules do not lose their performance characteristics and are much cheaper. Some suppliers offer solar modules on a fiberglass board, which implies high level tightness of elements, and, accordingly, reliability.

Name	Characteristics	Cost, $
Everbright Solar Cells (Ebay) no contacts	polycrystalline, set - 36 pcs., 81x150 mm, 1.75 W (0.5 V), 3A, efficiency (%) - 13 in a set with diodes and acid for soldering in a pencil	$46.00 $8.95shipping
Solar Cells (USA new)	monocrystalline, 156x156 mm, 81x150 mm, 4W (0.5 V), 8A, efficiency (%) - 16.7-17.9	$7.50
	monocrystalline, 153x138 mm, U cold. stroke - 21.6V, I short. deputy - 94 mA, P - 1.53W, efficiency (%) - 13	$15.50
Solar Cells on a fiberglass board	polycrystalline, 116x116 mm, U cold. stroke - 7.2V, I short. deputy - 275 mA., P - 1.5W, efficiency (%) - 10	$14.50
		$87.12 $9.25 shipping
Solar Cells (Ebay) without contacts	polycrystalline, set - 72 pcs., 81x150 mm 1.8W	$56.11 $9.25 shipping
Solar Cells (Ebay) with contacts	monocrystalline, set - 40 pcs., 152x152 mm	$87.25 $14.99 shipping

Development of a helium energy system project

The design of a future solar system largely depends on the method of its installation and installation. Solar panels should be installed at an angle to ensure direct sunlight at right angles. The performance of a solar panel largely depends on the intensity of the light energy, as well as the angle of incidence of the sun's rays. The placement of the solar battery relative to the sun and the angle of inclination depend on the geographical location of the helium system and the time of year.

From top to bottom: Monocrystalline solar panels (80 watts each) at the dacha are installed almost vertically (winter). Monocrystalline solar panels in the country have a smaller angle (spring). Mechanical system for controlling the angle of the solar battery.

Industrial solar systems are often equipped with sensors that ensure the rotational movement of the solar panel in the direction of movement of the sun's rays, as well as solar concentrator mirrors. In individual systems, such elements significantly complicate and increase the cost of the system, and therefore are not used. A simple mechanical tilt angle control system can be used. IN winter time solar panels should be installed almost vertically; this also protects the panel from snow accumulation and icing of the structure.

Scheme for calculating the angle of inclination of a solar panel depending on the time of year

Solar panels are installed with sunny side buildings to provide the maximum amount of solar energy available during daylight hours. Depending on your geographic location and solstice level, the battery angle that is most suitable for your location is calculated.

If the design becomes more complex, it is possible to create a system for controlling the angle of inclination of the solar battery depending on the time of year and the angle of rotation of the panel depending on the time of day. The energy efficiency of such a system will be higher.

When designing a solar system that will be installed on the roof of a house, it is necessary to find out whether roof structure maintain the required weight. Independent development of the project involves calculating the roof load taking into account the weight of the snow cover in winter.

Selecting the optimal static tilt angle for a monocrystalline type roofing solar system

For the manufacture of solar panels, you can choose various materials By specific gravity and other characteristics. When choosing construction materials, it is necessary to take into account the maximum permissible heating temperature of the solar cell, since the temperature of the solar module operating at full power, should not exceed 250C. Once the peak temperature is exceeded, the solar module abruptly loses its ability to convert sunlight into electrical current. Ready-made solar systems for individual use, as a rule, do not require cooling of solar cells. Do-it-yourself manufacturing may involve cooling the solar system or controlling the angle of the solar panel to ensure the functional temperature of the module, as well as choosing an appropriate transparent material that absorbs IR radiation.

Proper design of the solar system allows you to provide the required power of the solar battery, which will be close to the nominal one. When calculating a structure, it must be taken into account that elements of the same type give the same stress, regardless of the size of the elements. Moreover, the current strength of large-sized elements will be greater, but the battery will also be much heavier. To manufacture a solar system, solar modules of the same size are always taken, since the maximum current will be limited by the maximum current of the small element.

Calculations show that on average on a clear sunny day you can get no more than 120 W of power from 1 m of solar panel. Such power will not even power a computer. A 10 m system provides more than 1 kW of energy and can provide electricity for the operation of basic household appliances: lamps, TV, computer. For a family of 3-4 people, about 200-300 kW per month is needed, so solar system, installed with south side, 20 m in size can fully meet the family's energy needs.

If we consider the average statistical data on the power supply of an individual residential building, then: daily energy consumption is 3 kWh, solar radiation from spring to autumn - 4 kW h/m per day, peak power consumption - 3 kW (when turned on washing machine, refrigerator, iron and electric kettle). In order to optimize energy consumption for lighting inside the house, it is important to use lamps alternating current with low energy consumption - LED and fluorescent.

Making a solar battery frame

An aluminum corner is used as the frame of the solar battery. At the eBay auction you can purchase ready-made frames for solar panels. The transparent coating is selected at will, based on the characteristics that are necessary for a given design.

Solar panel frame kit with glass, starting at $33

When choosing a transparent protective material, you can also focus on the following material characteristics:

Material	Refractive index	Light transmittance, %	Specific gravity g/cm 3	Sheet size, mm	Thickness, mm	Cost, rub./m2
Air	1,0002926	—	—	—	—	—
Glass	1,43-2,17	92-99	3,168	—	—	—
Plexiglas	1,51	92-93	1,19	3040x2040	3	960.00
Polycarbonate	1,59	up to 92	0,198	3050 x2050	2	600.00
Plexiglass	1,491	92	1,19	2050x1500	11	640.00
Mineral glass	1,52-1,9	98	1,40	—	—	—

If we consider the refractive index of light as a criterion for choosing a material. Plexiglas has the lowest refractive index; a cheaper option for transparent material is domestic plexiglass, and polycarbonate is less suitable. Polycarbonate with an anti-condensation coating is available for sale; this material also provides a high level of thermal protection. When choosing transparent materials based on specific gravity and ability to absorb the IR spectrum, polycarbonate will be the best. The best transparent materials for solar panels include those with high light transmittance.

When manufacturing a solar battery, it is important to choose transparent materials that do not transmit the IR spectrum and, thus, reduce the heating of silicon elements, which lose their power at temperatures above 250C. In industry, special glasses with a metal oxide coating are used. The ideal glass for solar panels is considered to be a material that transmits the entire spectrum except the infrared range.

Diagram of absorption of UV and IR radiation by various glasses.
A) ordinary glass, b) glass with IR absorption, c) duplex with heat-absorbing and ordinary glass.

Maximum absorption of the IR spectrum will be provided by protective silicate glass with iron oxide (Fe 2 O 3), but it has a greenish tint. The IR spectrum is well absorbed by any mineral glass with the exception of quartz; plexiglass and plexiglass belong to the class of organic glasses. Mineral glass is more resistant to surface damage, but is very expensive and unavailable. For solar panels, special anti-reflective, ultra-transparent glass is also used, transmitting up to 98% of the spectrum. This glass also assumes absorption of most of the IR spectrum.

The optimal choice of optical and spectral characteristics of glass significantly increases the photoconversion efficiency of the solar panel.

Solar panel in plexiglass housing

Many solar panel workshops recommend using plexiglass for the front and back panels. This allows contact inspection. However, a plexiglass structure can hardly be called completely sealed, capable of ensuring uninterrupted operation of the panel for 20 years of operation.

Installation of the solar battery housing

The master class shows how to make a solar panel from 36 polycrystalline solar cells measuring 81x150 mm. Based on these dimensions, you can calculate the size of the future solar battery. When calculating the dimensions, it is important to make a small distance between the elements, which will take into account the change in the size of the base under atmospheric influence, that is, there should be 3-5 mm between the elements. The resulting workpiece size should be 835x690 mm with a corner width of 35 mm.

	Homemade solar cell made using aluminum profile, is most similar to a factory-made solar panel. This ensures a high degree of tightness and structural strength.
	For manufacturing, an aluminum corner is taken, and frame blanks of 835x690 mm are made. To allow fastening of hardware, holes should be made in the frame.
	On inner part silicone sealant is applied twice to the corner.
	Be sure to make sure there are no empty spaces. The tightness and durability of the battery depends on the quality of application of the sealant.
	Next, a transparent sheet of the selected material is placed in the frame: polycarbonate, plexiglass, plexiglass, anti-reflective glass. It is important to let the silicone dry outdoors, otherwise the evaporation will create a film on the elements.
	The glass must be carefully pressed and fixed.
	To securely attach the protective glass, you will need hardware. You need to secure the 4 corners of the frame and place two hardware around the perimeter on the long side of the frame and one hardware on the short side.
	The hardware is fixed with screws.
	The screws are tightened tightly using a screwdriver.
	The solar battery frame is ready. Before attaching solar cells, it is necessary to clean the glass from dust.

Selection and soldering of solar cells

Currently, the eBay auction offers a huge range of products for making solar panels yourself.

Solar Cells kit includes a set of 36 polycrystalline silicon cells, cell leads and busbars, Schottke diodes and a soldering acid pen

Since a solar battery made by yourself is almost 4 times cheaper than a ready-made one, making it yourself is a significant cost saving. You can buy solar cells on eBay that have defects but still remain functional, so the cost of a solar panel can be reduced significantly if you can donate extra appearance batteries.

Damaged photocells do not lose their functionality

For your first experience, it is better to purchase kits for making solar panels; solar cells with soldered conductors are available for sale. Soldering contacts is a rather complex process, the complexity of which is compounded by the fragility of solar cells.

If you purchased silicon elements without conductors, you must first solder the contacts.

	This is what a polycrystalline silicon cell looks like without conductors.
	The conductors are cut using a cardboard blank.
	It is necessary to carefully place the conductor on the photocell.
	Apply soldering acid and solder to the soldering area. For convenience, the conductor is fixed on one side with a heavy object.
	In this position, it is necessary to carefully solder the conductor to the photocell. While soldering, do not press on the crystal because it is very fragile.

Soldering elements is quite a painstaking job. If you cannot get a normal connection, you need to repeat the work. According to standards, silver coating on a conductor must withstand 3 soldering cycles under acceptable thermal conditions; in practice, you are faced with the fact that the coating is destroyed. The destruction of silver plating occurs due to the use of soldering irons with unregulated power (65 W), this can be avoided if you lower the power as follows - you need to turn on a socket with a 100 W light bulb in series with the soldering iron. The power rating of a non-regulated soldering iron is too high for soldering silicon contacts.

Even if conductor sellers claim that there is solder on the connector, it is better to apply it additionally. When soldering, try to handle the elements carefully; with minimal force they will burst; Do not stack the elements in a stack; the weight may cause the lower elements to crack.

Assembling and soldering a solar battery

At the first self-assembly It is better to use a marking substrate for the solar battery, which will help position the elements exactly at a certain distance from each other (5 mm).

Marking substrate for solar battery cells

The base is made of a sheet of plywood with corner markings. After soldering on each element with reverse side A piece of mounting tape is attached, just press the back panel against the tape, and all the elements are transferred.

Mounting tape used for mounting on the back of the solar cell

With this type of fastening, the elements themselves are not additionally sealed; they can expand freely under the influence of temperature, this will not damage the solar battery or break the contacts and elements. Only the connecting parts of the structure can be sealed. This type of fastening is more suitable for prototypes, but can hardly guarantee long-term operation in the field.

The sequential battery assembly plan looks like this:

	Place the elements on a glass surface. There must be a distance between the elements, which allows for free changes in size without damaging the structure. The elements must be pressed with weights.
	We carry out soldering according to the electrical diagram below. “Positive” current-carrying paths are located on the front side of the elements, “negative” ones - on the back side. Before soldering, you need to apply flux and solder, then carefully solder the silver contacts.
	All solar cells are connected using this principle.
	The contacts of the outer elements are output to the bus, respectively, to “plus” and “minus”. The bus uses the wider silver conductor found in the Solar Cells kit. We also recommend that you remove the “middle” point; with its help, two additional shunt diodes are installed.
	The terminal is also installed with outside frames
	This is what the diagram of connecting elements looks like without a displayed midpoint.
	This is what the terminal strip looks like with the “middle” point displayed. The “middle” point allows you to install a shunt diode on each half of the battery, which will prevent the battery from discharging when the lighting decreases or one half is darkened.
	The photo shows a bypass diode on the "positive" output, it resists the discharge of batteries through the battery at night and the discharge of other batteries during partial darkness. Most often, Schottke diodes are used as shunt diodes. They give less loss per total power electrical circuit. An acoustic cable in silicone insulation can be used as current carrying wires. For isolation, you can use tubes from under the drip. All wires must be firmly fixed with silicone.
	The elements can be connected in series (see photo), and not through a common bus, then the 2nd and 4th rows must be rotated 1800 relative to the 1st row.

The main problems in assembling a solar panel are related to the quality of soldering contacts, so experts suggest testing it before sealing the panel.

Panel testing before sealing, mains voltage 14 volts, peak power 65 W

Testing can be done after soldering each group of elements. If you pay attention to the photos in the master class, then the part of the table under the solar elements is cut out. This was done intentionally to determine the functionality of the electrical network after soldering the contacts.

Sealing the solar panel

Sealing solar panels with self-production- This is the most controversial issue among experts. On the one hand, sealing panels is necessary to increase durability; it is always used when industrial production. For sealing foreign specialists It is recommended to use the epoxy compound “Sylgard 184”, which gives a transparent polymerized highly elastic surface. The cost of “Sylgard 184” on eBay is about $40.

Sealant with high degree elasticity "Sylgard 184"

On the other hand, if you do not want to incur additional costs, it is quite possible to use silicone sealant. However, in this case, you should not completely fill the elements to avoid their possible damage during operation. In this case, the elements can be attached to the back panel using silicone and only the edges of the structure can be sealed. It is difficult to say how effective such sealing is, but we do not recommend using non-recommended waterproofing mastics; the probability of contacts and elements breaking is very high.

	Before starting sealing, it is necessary to prepare the Sylgard 184 mixture.
	First, the joints of the elements are filled. The mixture must set to secure the elements to the glass.
	After fixing the elements, a continuous polymerizing layer of elastic sealant is made; it can be distributed using a brush.
	This is what the surface looks like after applying the sealant. The sealing layer must dry. After complete drying, you can cover the solar panel with the back panel.
	This is what the front side of a homemade solar panel looks like after sealing.

House power supply diagram

Home power supply systems using solar panels are usually called photovoltaic systems, that is, systems that generate energy using the photoelectric effect. For individual residential buildings, three photovoltaic systems are considered: an autonomous energy supply system, a hybrid battery-grid photovoltaic system, a battery-less photovoltaic system connected to central system energy supply.

Each of the systems has its own purpose and advantages, but most often in residential buildings They use photovoltaic systems with backup batteries and connection to a centralized power grid. The power grid is powered using solar panels, in the dark from batteries, and when they are discharged - from the central power grid. In remote areas where there is no central network, liquid fuel generators are used as a backup source of energy supply.

A more economical alternative to a hybrid battery-grid power system would be a batteryless solar system connected to the central grid. Electricity is supplied from solar panels, and at night the network is powered from the central network. This network is more applicable for institutions, because in residential buildings most of energy is consumed in the evening.

Diagrams of three types of photovoltaic systems

Let's look at a typical battery-grid photovoltaic system installation. Solar panels, which are connected through a junction box, act as an electricity generator. Next, a solar charge controller is installed in the network to avoid short circuit at peak load. Electricity is accumulated in backup batteries and is also supplied through an inverter to consumers: lighting, household appliances, electric stove and possibly used to heat water. To install a heating system, it is more effective to use solar collectors, which belong to alternative solar technology.

Hybrid battery-grid photovoltaic system with alternating current

There are two types of power grids used in photovoltaic systems: DC and AC. The use of an alternating current network allows you to place electrical consumers at a distance exceeding 10-15 m, as well as provide a conditionally unlimited network load.

For a private residential building, the following components of a photovoltaic system are usually used:

• the total power of solar panels should be 1000 W, they will provide a generation of about 5 kWh;
• batteries with a total capacity of 800 A/h at a voltage of 12 V;
• the inverter must have a rated power of 3 kW with a peak load of up to 6 kW, input voltage 24-48 V;
• solar discharge controller 40-50 A at a voltage of 24 V;
• uninterruptible power supply to provide short-term charging with a current of up to 150 A.

Thus, for a photovoltaic power supply system you will need 15 panels with 36 elements, an example of the assembly of which is given in the master class. Each panel provides a total power of 65 watts. Solar batteries based on monocrystals will be more powerful. For example, a solar panel of 40 monocrystals has a peak power of 160 W, but such panels are sensitive to cloudy weather. In this case, solar panels based on polycrystalline modules are optimal for use in the northern part of Russia.

Ecology of consumption. Science and Technology: Everyone knows that a solar cell converts the sun's energy into electrical energy. And there is a whole industry for the production of such elements in huge factories. I suggest you make your own solar battery from readily available materials.

Everyone knows that a solar battery converts the sun's energy into electrical energy. And there is a whole industry for the production of such elements in huge factories. I suggest you make your own solar battery from readily available materials.

Components of a solar battery

The main element of our solar battery will be two copper plates. After all, as you know, copper oxide was the first element in which scientists discovered the photoelectric effect.

So, for the successful implementation of our modest project you will need:

1. Copper sheet. In fact whole sheet We don’t need it, but small square (or rectangular) pieces of 5 cm each will suffice.

2. A pair of alligator clips.

3. Microammeter (to understand the amount of current generated).

4. Electric stove. It is necessary to oxidize one of our plates.

5. Transparent container. A regular plastic mineral water bottle will do just fine.

6. Table salt.

7. Regular hot water.

8. Small piece sandpaper to clean our copper plates from oxide film.

Once everything you need is prepared, you can proceed to the most important stage.

Preparing the plates

So, first of all, take one plate and wash it to remove all fats from its surface. After this, use sandpaper to clean off the oxide film and place the already cleaned bar on the switched on electric burner.

After that, we turn it on and watch how it heats up and changes our plate.

Once the copper plate has completely turned black, keep it on the hot stove for at least another forty minutes. After this, turn off the stove and wait until your “fried” copper has cooled completely.

Due to the fact that the cooling rate of the copper plate and the oxide film will be different, most of the black deposit will come off on its own.

After the plate has cooled, take it and gently wash off the black film under water.

Important. However, you should not tear off the remaining black areas or bend them in any way. This is necessary so that the copper layer remains intact.

After this, we take our plates and carefully place them in the prepared container, and attach our alligator clips with soldered wires to the edges. Moreover, we connect the untouched piece of copper to the minus, and the processed piece to the plus.

Then we prepare a saline solution, namely, we dissolve a few tablespoons of salt in water and pour this liquid into a container.

Now we check the performance of our design by connecting it to a microammeter.

As you can see, the installation is quite working. In the shade, the microammeter showed approximately 20 µA. But in the sun the device went off scale. Therefore, I can only say that in the sun such an installation clearly produces more than 100 μA.

Of course, with such an installation you will not even be able to light a light bulb, but by doing such an installation with your child, you can stir up his interest in studying, for example, physics. published

If you have any questions on this topic, ask them to the experts and readers of our project.

Humanity in order to take care of the environment and save money Money began to use alternative energy sources, which, in particular, include solar panels. Buying such a pleasure will be quite expensive, but it is not difficult to make this device with your own hands. Therefore, it won’t hurt you to learn how to make a solar panel yourself. This will be discussed in our article.

Solar batteries are devices that generate electricity using photocells.

Before we talk about how to make a solar battery with your own hands, you need to understand the structure and principles of its operation. The solar battery includes photocells connected in series and parallel, a battery that stores electricity, an inverter that converts direct current into alternating current, and a controller that monitors the charging and discharging of the battery.

As a rule, solar cells are made of silicon, but its purification is expensive, so elements such as indium, copper, and selenium have recently begun to be used.

Each photocell is a separate cell that generates electricity. The cells are interconnected and form a single field, the area of ​​which determines the battery power. That is, the more photocells, the more electricity is generated.

In order to make a solar panel with your own hands at home, you need to understand the essence of such a phenomenon as the photoelectric effect. A photocell is a silicon plate that, when light hits it, knocks out an electron from the last energy level of silicon atoms. The movement of a flow of such electrons produces a direct current, which is subsequently converted to alternating current. This is the phenomenon of the photoelectric effect.

Advantages

Solar panels have the following advantages:

• environmentally friendly;
• durability;
• silent operation;
• ease of manufacture and installation;
• independence of electricity supply from the distribution network;
• immobility of device parts;
• minor financial costs;
• light weight;
• work without mechanical converters.

Varieties

Solar batteries are divided into the following types.

Silicon

Silicon is the most popular material for batteries.

Silicon batteries are also divided into:

1. Monocrystalline: These batteries use very pure silicon.
2. Polycrystalline (cheaper than monocrystalline): polycrystals are obtained by gradually cooling silicon.

Film

Such batteries are divided into the following types:

1. Based on cadmium telluride (10% efficiency): cadmium has a high light absorption coefficient, which allows it to be used in the production of batteries.
2. Based on copper selenide - indium: efficiency is higher than the previous ones.
3. Polymer.

Solar batteries from polymers began to be manufactured relatively recently; usually furellenes, polyphenylene, etc. are used for this. Polymer films are very thin, about 100 nm. Despite the efficiency of 5%, polymer batteries have their advantages: low cost of material, environmental friendliness, elasticity.

Amorphous

The efficiency of amorphous batteries is 5%. Such panels are made from silane (hydrogen silicon) according to the principle of film batteries, so they can be classified as both silicon and film. Amorphous batteries are elastic, generate electricity even in bad weather, and absorb light better than other panels.

Materials

To make a solar battery you will need the following materials:

• photocells;
• aluminum corners;
• Schottky diodes;
• silicone sealants;
• conductors;
• mounting screws and hardware;
• polycarbonate sheet/plexiglass;
• soldering equipment.

These materials are required in order to make a solar battery with your own hands.

Selection of photocells

To make a solar battery for your home with your own hands, you need to choose the right photocells. The latter are divided into monocrystalline, polycrystalline and amorphous.

The efficiency of the former is 13%, but such photocells are ineffective in bad weather and appear as bright blue squares. Polycrystalline solar cells are capable of generating electricity even in bad weather, although their efficiency is only 9%, are darker in appearance than monocrystalline ones and are cut off at the edges. Amorphous photocells are made of flexible silicon, their efficiency is 10%, their performance does not depend on weather conditions, but the production of such cells is too expensive, so they are rarely used.

If you plan to use electricity generated by photovoltaic cells at your dacha, we advise you to assemble a solar battery with your own hands from polycrystalline cells, since their efficiency is sufficient for your purposes.

You should buy photocells of the same brand, since photocells from several brands can be very different - this can cause problems with the assembly of the battery and its functioning. It should be remembered that the amount of energy produced by a cell is directly proportional to its size, that is, the larger the photocell, the more electricity it produces; The voltage of a cell depends on its type, not its size.

The amount of current produced is determined by the dimensions of the smallest photocell, so you should buy photocells of the same size. Of course, you should not purchase cheap products, because this means that they have not been tested. Also, you should not buy photocells coated with wax (many manufacturers coat photocells with wax to protect products during transportation): removing it can damage the photocell.

Calculations and project

Installing a solar panel with your own hands is not a difficult task, the main thing is to approach it responsibly. To make a solar panel with your own hands, you should calculate the daily electricity consumption, then find out the average daily solar time in your area and calculate the required power. Thus, it will become clear how many cells and what size you need to purchase. After all, as mentioned above, the current generated by the cell depends on its dimensions.

Knowing required size cells and their number, you need to calculate the dimensions and weight of the panel, after which you need to find out whether the roof or other place where you plan to install the solar battery will support the planned structure.

When installing a panel, you should not only choose the most sunny place, but also try to secure it at right angles to the sun's rays.

Stages of work

Frame

Before you start making a solar panel with your own hands, you need to build a frame for it. It protects the battery from damage, moisture and dust.

The body is assembled from moisture-resistant material: plywood coated with a moisture-repellent agent, or aluminum corners to which plexiglass or polycarbonate is glued with silicone sealant.

In this case, it is necessary to maintain space between the elements (3-4 mm), since it is necessary to take into account the expansion of the material with increasing temperature.

Soldering elements

The photocells are laid out on the front side of the transparent surface, so that the distance between them on all sides is 5 mm: this takes into account the possible expansion of the photocells as the temperature rises.

Converters having two poles are fixed: positive and negative. If you want to increase the voltage, connect the elements in series, if the current - in parallel.

To avoid discharging the battery at night, a Schottky diode is included in a single circuit consisting of all the necessary parts, connecting it to the positive conductor. Then all the elements are soldered together.

Assembly

Soldered converters are placed in the finished frame, silicone is applied to the photocells - all this is covered with a layer of fiberboard, closed with a lid, and the joints of the parts are treated with sealant.

Even a city dweller can make and place a solar panel on the balcony with his own hands. It is advisable that the balcony be glazed and insulated.
So we figured out how to make a solar battery at home, it turned out that it’s not difficult at all.

Ideas from scrap materials

You can make a solar battery with your own hands from scrap materials. Let's look at the most popular options.

Many will be surprised to learn that foil can be used to make a solar battery with your own hands. In fact, this is not surprising, because foil increases the reflectivity of materials. For example, to reduce overheating of the panels, they are placed on foil.

How to make a solar panel from foil?

We will need:

• 2 “crocodiles”;
• copper foil;
• multimeter;
• salt;
• empty plastic bottle without neck;
• electric oven;
• drill.

After cleaning the copper sheet and washing your hands, cut off a piece of foil, place it on a hot electric stove, heat it for half an hour, observing blackening, then remove the foil from the stove, let it cool and see how pieces peel off from the sheet. After heating, the oxide film disappears, so the black oxide can be carefully removed with water.

Then a second piece of foil is cut out the same size as the first, the two parts are folded and lowered into the bottle so that they have no chance of touching.

Foil can also be used for heating. To do this, you need to pull it onto a frame, to which you then need to connect hoses connected, for example, to a watering can with water.

So we learned how to make a solar panel for your home from foil yourself.

Many people have old transistors lying around at home, but not everyone knows that they are quite suitable for making a solar battery for the garden with your own hands. The photocell in this case is a semiconductor wafer located inside the transistor. How to make a solar battery from transistors with your own hands? First you need to open the transistor, for which it is enough to cut off the cover, so we can see the plate: it small sizes, which explains the low efficiency of solar panels made from transistors.

Next you need to check the transistor. To do this, we use a multimeter: we connect the device to a transistor with well-lit p-n junction and measure the current, the multimeter should record a current from a few fractions of a milliampere to 1 or a little more; Next, switch the device to voltage measurement mode, the multimeter should output tenths of a volt.

We place the transistors that have passed the test inside a housing, for example, sheet plastic, and solder them. You can make such a solar battery with your own hands at home and use it to charge batteries and low-power radios.

Old diodes are also suitable for assembling batteries. Making a solar battery with your own hands from diodes is not at all difficult. You need to open the diode, exposing the crystal, which is a photocell, then heat the diode for 20 seconds gas stove, and when the solder melts, remove the crystal. All that remains is to solder the removed crystals to the body.

The power of such batteries is small, but it is enough to power small LEDs.

This option of making a solar battery with your own hands from improvised materials will seem very strange to most, but making a solar battery with your own hands from beer cans is simple and cheap.

We will make the body from plywood, on which we will place polycarbonate or plexiglass; on the back surface of the plywood we will fix foam plastic or glass wool for insulation. Aluminum cans will serve as photocells. It is important to choose aluminum cans, since aluminum is less susceptible to corrosion than, for example, iron and has better heat transfer.

Next, holes are made in the bottom of the cans, the lid is cut off, and unnecessary elements are folded to ensure better air circulation. Then you need to clean the jars from grease and dirt using special acid-free products. Next, you need to hermetically seal the jars together: with silicone gel that can withstand high temperatures, or a soldering iron. Be sure to dry the glued cans very well in a stationary position.

Having attached the cans to the body, we paint them black and cover the structure with plexiglass or polycarbonate. Such a battery is capable of heating water or air and then supplying it to the room.

We looked at options on how to make a solar panel with your own hands. We hope that now you will not have a question about how to make a solar battery.

Video

How to make solar panels with your own hands - video tutorial.

It all started with a walk through the eBay website - I saw solar panels and got sick.

Disputes with friends about payback were funny... When buying a car, no one thinks about the return on investment. A car is like a mistress, prepare the amount for pleasure in advance. And here it’s quite the opposite, you spent money and they are still trying to recoup... In addition, I connected an incubator to the solar panels so they still justify their purpose, protecting your future farm from destruction. In general, having an incubator, you depend on many factors, it’s either a master or a layman. When I have time, I’ll write about homemade incubator. Well, okay, why talk about it, everyone has the right to choose.....!

After much waiting, the treasured box with thin, fragile records finally warms my hands and heart.

First of all, of course, the Internet... well, it’s not the gods who burn the pots. Someone else's experience is always useful. And then disappointment set in... As it turned out, about five people made the panels with their own hands, the rest were simply copied onto their websites, some of them, in order to be more original, copied from different developments. Well, God bless them, let this remain on the conscience of the page owners.

I decided to read the forums; the long discussions of theorists on “how to milk a cow” led to complete despondency. Discussions about how plates break due to heat, the difficulties of sealing, etc. I read it and spat on the whole thing. We will go our own way, by trial and error, relying on the experience of “colleagues”; why reinvent the wheel?

Let's set the task:

1) The panel should be made from available materials so as not to stretch your wallet, since the result is unknown.

2) The manufacturing process should not be labor-intensive.

Let's start making a solar panel:

The first thing we purchased was 2 glasses 86x66 cm for the future two panels.

The glass is simple, purchased from plastic window manufacturers. Or maybe not simple...

A long search for aluminum corners, based on experience already tested by “colleagues,” ended in nothing.

Therefore, the manufacturing process began sluggishly, with a feeling of long-term construction.

I won’t describe the process of soldering panels, since there is a lot of information about this on the Internet and even a video. I'll just leave my notes and comments.

The devil is not as scary as he is painted.

Despite the difficulties that are described on the forums, the element plates are soldered easily, both the front side and the back. Also, our Soviet POS-40 solder is quite suitable, in any case, I did not experience any difficulties. And of course, our dear rosin, where would we be without it... During soldering I didn’t break a single element, I think you’d have to be a complete idiot to break them on even glass.

The conductors that come with the panels are very convenient, firstly, they are flat, and secondly, they are tinned, which significantly reduces soldering time. Although it is quite possible to use ordinary wire, I conducted the experiment on spare plates and did not experience any difficulties in soldering. (in the photo there are remains of a flat wire)

It took me about 2 hours to solder 36 plates. Although I read on the forum that people solder for 2 days.

It is advisable to use a 40 W soldering iron. Since the plates easily dissipate heat, and this makes soldering difficult. The first attempts to solder with a 25 Watt soldering iron were tedious and sad.

Also, when soldering, it is advisable to optimally select the amount of flux (rosin). For a large excess of it prevents the tin from sticking to the plate. That’s why we had to practically tin the record, in general, it’s no big deal, everything can be fixed. (look closely at the photo you can see.)

Tin consumption is quite large.

Well, in the photo there are soldered elements, there is a jamb in the second row, one terminal is not soldered, but I noticed nothing important and corrected it.

The glass edging is made with double-sided tape, then a plastic film will be glued to this tape.

The tapes I used.

After soldering, start sealing (adhesive tape will help you).

Well, the plates are glued with tape and the corrected jamb.

Next, remove the protective layer of double-sided tape from the panel edging and glue it onto it plastic film with a margin at the edges. (I forgot to take a photo) Oh yes, we make slits in the tape for the outgoing wires. Well, don’t be stupid, you’ll understand what and when... We coat the edges of the glass, as well as the wire leads, corners, with silicone sealant.

And fold the film onto the outside.

A plastic frame was previously made. When installed in the house plastic windows, a plastic profile for the window sill is attached to the window with screws. I thought this part was too thin. So I removed it and made the window sill my own way. Therefore, plastic profiles remained from 12 windows. So to speak, there is an abundance of material.

I glued the frame with a regular, old, Soviet iron. It’s a pity I didn’t film the process, but I think there’s nothing too incomprehensible here. I cut 2 sides at 45 degrees, heated them on the sole of the iron and glued them after setting them at an even angle. The photo shows the frame for the second panel.

Installing glass with elements and protective film into the frame

We cut off the excess film and seal the edges with silicone sealants.

We get this panel.

Yes, I forgot to write that in addition to the film, I glued guides to the frame that prevent the elements from falling if the tape comes off. The space between the elements and guides is filled with polyurethane foam. This made it possible to press the elements more tightly to the glass.

Well, let's start testing.

Since I made one panel in advance, the result of one is known to me: Voltage 21 Volts. Short circuit current 3.4 Amperes. The battery charging current is 40A. h 2.1 Ampere.

Unfortunately I didn't take any photos. It must be said that the current strength depends sharply on the illumination.

Now there are 2 batteries connected in parallel.

The weather at the time of production was cloudy, it was about 4 o'clock in the afternoon.

At first it upset me, and then it even made me happy. After all, these are the most average conditions for a battery, which means the result is more plausible than in bright sunshine. The sun did not shine through the clouds so brightly. I must say that the sun was shining a little from the side.

With this lighting, the short circuit current was 7.12 Amperes. Which I consider an excellent result.

No-load voltage 20.6 Volts. Well, it's stable at about 21 volts.

Battery charging current is 2.78 Ampere. With such lighting, this guarantees the battery charge.

Measurements showed that on a good sunny day the result will be better.

By that time, the weather was getting worse, the clouds had closed, the sun was completely shining, and I began to wonder what would show in this situation. It's almost evening twilight...

The sky looked like this, I specially removed the horizon line. However, on the battery glass itself you can see the sky as if in a mirror.

The voltage in this situation is 20.2 volts. As already mentioned 21st century. it's practically a constant.

Short circuit current 2.48A. In general, it’s great for such lighting! Almost equal to one battery in good sun.

Battery charging current is 1.85 Ampere. What can I say... Even at dusk the battery will be charged.

Conclusion: A solar battery has been built that is not inferior in characteristics to industrial designs. Well, as for durability.....we'll see, time will tell.

Oh yes, the battery is charged through 40 A Schottky diodes. Well, what was found.

I also want to say about controllers. It all looks nice, but it's not worth the money spent on the controller.

If you are comfortable with a soldering iron, the circuits are very simple. Do it and enjoy making it.

Well, the wind blew up and the remaining 5 spare elements went into an uncontrollable flight..... the result was fragments. Well, what can you do, carelessness must be punished. On the other hand... Where should they go?

We decided to make another socket from the fragments, 5 volts. It took 2 hours to make. The remaining materials came at just the right time. This is what happened.

Measurements were taken in the evening.

It must be said that in good lighting the short circuit current is more than 1 ampere.

The pieces are soldered in parallel and in series. The goal is to provide approximately the same area. After all, the current strength is equal to the smallest element. Therefore, when manufacturing, select elements according to the lighting area.

It's time to talk about practical application solar panels made by me.

In the spring I installed two manufactured panels on the roof, 8 meters high at an angle of 35 degrees, oriented to the southeast. This orientation was not chosen by chance, because it was noticed that in this latitude, in the summer, the sun rises at 4 am and by 6-7 o’clock it charges the batteries quite well with a current of 5-6 amperes, and this also applies to the evening. Each panel must have its own diode. In order to prevent elements from burning out when the power of the panels differs. And as a consequence, an unjustified reduction in the power of the panels.
The descent from a height was carried out with multi-core wire with a cross-section of 6 mm2 each core. In this way, it was possible to achieve minimal losses in the wires.

Old, barely alive batteries 150Ah, 75Ah, 55Ah, 60Ah were used as energy storage devices. All batteries are connected in parallel and, taking into account the loss of capacity, the total amount is about 100Ah.
There is no battery charge controller. Although I think installing a controller is necessary. I’m working on the controller circuit now. Since during the day the batteries begin to boil. Therefore, you have to dump excess energy every day by turning on unnecessary load. In my case, I turn on the bathhouse lighting. 100 W. Also, during the day, an LCD TV of approximately 105W, a 40W fan, and in the evening an energy-saving 20W light bulb are added.

For those who like to carry out calculations, I will say: THEORY AND PRACTICE are not the same thing. Since such a “sandwich” works quite well for over 12 hours. At the same time, sometimes we charge phones from it. I have never reached the full discharge of the batteries. Which accordingly cancels out the calculations.

As a converter, a 600VA computer uninterruptible power supply (inverter) was used, slightly modified for free starting from batteries, which approximately corresponds to a load of 300W.
I also want to note that the batteries are charged even under a bright moon. In this case, the current is 0.5-1 Ampere, I think for the night this is not bad at all.

Of course, I would like to increase the load, but this requires a powerful inverter. I plan to make an inverter myself according to the diagram below. Since buying an inverter for crazy money is UNREASONABLE!