Compatibility of vegetable crops. What to plant next to grapes What not to plant grapes with

When growing grapes in small plots, gardeners try to make good use of every centimeter of land. The desire is laudable, but when combining crops, you need to know what to plant next to the grapes, and which neighborhood it is better to refuse.

When selecting plants for planting in a vineyard, take into account:

• soil type;
• features of the root system of crops;
• watering modes;
• compatibility;
• required degree of illumination.

Roses are a kind of indicator of infection, warning of danger. The practical benefits of the neighborhood are palpable; it is not for nothing that winegrowers in France, Spain, Greece, and Italy border their plantings with bushes of lushly blooming roses.

It is convenient to grow crops together due to the similarity of agricultural techniques. They have the same requirements for soil nutrition, fertilizing, watering regimes, and shelters. Just like a vine, climbing varieties of roses require supports, for which trellises and stakes are used.

Onions next to grapes

Onions grow successfully between rows of plantings. In this case, it is necessary to observe the watering regime and control the volume of moisture. The onion is free among the vines, the turnip grows large and strong.

It is convenient to plant onions on greens, collecting feathers every two weeks for food. Grapes and onions get along peacefully with each other and do not conflict.

On a note!

Pearl, chives and leeks are not suitable for planting.

Weeds

Surprisingly, they do useful action to the vineyards. Experienced winegrowers note that when growing vines in clean, thoroughly weeded areas, they obtain smaller berry yields. But it is necessary to follow the sowing rules, time, and also know the friendly weeds by sight.

Shepherd's wort, St. John's wort, clover, sweet clover are crop-neutral plants that are acceptable for row spacing. Sowing is possible after the grape bushes reach three years of age. Previously, weeds choke out grapes, prevent their growth and shoot development, and weaken root system.

The emerging weeds are mowed down, leaving to rot to form useful nutritious humus. It is permissible to sow low-growing grasses to obtain a green “carpet” in order to improve the quality of the soil and prevent the growth of weeds that are dangerous to grapes (wheatgrass, bluebell).

Planting cucumbers on trellises

In addition to borage, it is an excellent neighbor for sunny berries. Long-climbing varieties are grown on trellises, resulting in a high yield of greens.

The root system of cucumbers is located in the upper layers of the soil; it does not take away nutrition from the grapes. Enough moisture and heat, while the vegetable is protected from winds and drafts.

Planting green manure

Green manure crops are used to enrich the soil with nutrients. They improve the structure of the soil, saturate it with nitrogen, and promote the appearance of beneficial earthworms.

Attention!

The best green manures for vineyards are legumes and cereals.

The list includes:

• alfalfa;
• oats;
• barley;
• rye;
• sainfoin;
• Vika;
• rape;
• buckwheat;
• peas.

Cereals have a positive effect on shoot growth and vine development. Leguminous plants enrich the soil with nitrogen and phosphorus. They heal the soil, make it moisture-permeable and loose.

Growing scheme:

• sowing green manure after picking berries (in autumn);
• wintering;
• spring watering of plantings;
• mowing green mass.

The soil is not dug up so as not to damage the roots of the grape bushes. It is advisable to sow not one green manure crop, but different plants, in order to ensure a complex effect on fruit plantings.

Another option: rolling green manure to form a single green covering on the ground. In such soils, a large number of earthworms appear, and the percentage of useful humus increases.

Grapes and strawberries

Among the popular options: growing strawberries in the rows of a vineyard or garden strawberries. But such plantings are recommended only while the grape bushes are young, otherwise the strawberries will be uncomfortable in the strong shade of adult plants.

Root systems of crops are located at different levels, cannot tolerate excess nitrogen, but respond well to fertilizing organic fertilizers. Grape bushes will protect low-growing strawberries from the scorching sun, which kills up to 40-50% of plants in open ridges.

Light partial shade is formed between the rows and there is enough moisture. and gives a good harvest of berries.

• make a high bed for strawberries;
• on highly moist soils, consider drainage systems;
• leave a distance between strawberries and grapes of at least half a meter;
• use organic matter (rotted compost, ash) for fertilizing.

When cultivating the vineyard in spring and early summer, care should be taken to cover the strawberries. Use several layers of thick polyethylene film, laying it on the berry bushes.

Varieties relationships

In addition to planting other crops in the vineyard, novice winegrowers are interested in the issue of proximity different varieties. There is no need to be afraid, different varieties grow well and bear fruit in one area.

In addition, plants that produce only female flowers with sterile pollen need pollinator planting. Variety descriptions indicate what type of flowers the species has and what pollinators are suitable. It is recommended to select grapes with the same flowering and fruiting periods, so as not to be left without a harvest.

Capricious and heat-loving grapes require proper care. Knowledge of all the intricacies of agricultural technology and selection of ideal “neighbors” for the crop will allow you to get an excellent harvest.

Nina Nikolaevna, I sympathize with you! This is truly a nightmare! I also have thrips, but not nearly as many! I can’t get it out to the end (I’ve been struggling for a year). It’s just possible to restrain them; it’s also possible to drive them away from the roses! But in the future to carry out preventative treatments it will definitely be necessary. And here’s why: if this problem had not affected me, I would never have known that these bastards are everywhere. Almost all flowers suffer from them, and shrubs too. I find them on daylilies, daisies, even on the wild (beautiful...) “Mullein” in my garden. I removed phloxes from my garden for the same reason. Both gladioli and sunflowers suffer from them (neighbors plant along the fence...). And now I conclude (and have already accepted) that isolating your garden from them is UNREALISTIC! After all, there are also neighbors’ gardens, and there are a lot of wild flowers all around, which also contain thrips. The only way out is to control the number of thrips on your roses and other flowers in the garden. During the season (May-September) it is necessary to do 3-4 sets of treatments according to the following scheme: First, insert “Fly beetle” granules into the soil (good in April-May), but this is never too late); then, 1st day:” Confidor" (according to instructions, and even in a slightly higher concentration) - according to the sheet. After 1-2 days: “Konfidor” (or, for example, “Aktelik”) - on a leaf and spill the soil with “konfidor”. After another 1-2 days: “Konfidor” (or another medium). Once a month, do the cleaning according to this scheme (except for “Mukhod”, since it must be used more than 2 times per season it’s impossible, so it would be good to “time it” the second time to coincide with the last treatment, at the end of the season). windless weather). In your current case: do not regret and remove all the buds and flowers and then only do the processing. Nina Nikolaevna, I carried out this scheme clearly only 1 time, and then only 2 times on the soil - the result is the same as last year! I didn’t completely remove the thrips (when the roses bloomed, I can’t decide to spray anymore; our neighbor keeps bees; he really loves this activity, he’s 85 years old. And his bees are “friends” with us; they don’t bother us, but they “work in the roses”) intensively! But our neighbor gives us honey every year. Several years ago, almost all of his bees died in the winter, so our neighbor took it very seriously, he even got sick... But, Nina Nikolaevna, believe me, these treatments were enough to feel the result: flowers, which last year even lost their shape - this summer they “regained” their faces, and are blooming very profusely. In my situation, I just need to contain their numbers, and maybe a miracle will come - just don’t despair if you have no restrictions! the frequency of treatments, everything can be solved, believe me, just give yourself time, patience and work, of course, not a little... Good luck to you!

Caring for grapes damaged by frost and pruning them after frost

This year (2012) began with very severe frosts throughout Russia, and they did not escape Kuban, a wine-growing region.

With such frosts above 25 degrees, the grapes suffer very much, especially the grapes that are not covered, including those that form arbors, for example, the well-known Isabella - even she does not tolerate such frosts well, although she is famous for her resistance. What can we say about “noble” grape varieties - before our eyes they turn into dust, and we have to wait with anxiety, or rather with hidden hope, for spring.

As is known, the degree and nature of damage to bushes by low temperatures depend on the frost resistance of the variety, the conditions of the previous growing season (weather, crop load of the bushes and the level of cultivation technology), the intensity and duration of the impact of frost on grapes, the condition of the plantings, their age and the location of the site.

The purpose of this article is to help you possibly the shortest possible time restore damaged plantings, ensure you get the maximum possible harvest this year and good fruiting in subsequent years.

Hereinafter, terms that are used by professional winegrowers will be used - you can familiarize yourself with them, as well as what parts of the grapes are called, here: “Dictionary of a beginning winegrower.” When reading the article, it is recommended to keep it open so as not to get confused in the terms “top”, “shoulder”, “loop” and the like...

First, you need to determine how much the grape bushes suffered from frost.

Some gardeners and summer residents involved in viticulture make a common mistake: having cut a grape shoot or its eyes during frost and seeing that they are green, they think that they are healthy and have not suffered from the cold. The same mistake is made by those winegrowers who, having cut off a shoot, immediately bring it into a warm room, where a brown color appears on the cuts, and in this case they think that the grapes are frozen.

To determine the condition of the buds of wintering eyes and annual shoots, samples of the latter should be taken. In this case, the sample is taken no earlier than 2-3 days after a sharp drop in temperature. The shoots must be normally developed, that is, have a length of the ripened part of at least 100 cm and a thickness at the base of at least 6 mm. Weak and poorly ripened shoots, as well as fattening shoots (thick shoots usually developed from dormant buds on perennial wood) are analyzed separately. In fattening shoots, the cells are large, loose, with a large core, their water content is increased, the supply of plastic substances is reduced, and the lignification of the cell walls is weak. Resistant to low temperatures in such shoots, naturally, it is lower than in normal ones.

It is also necessary to separately analyze the condition of the stepson shoots, since it is known that the fruitfulness of the eyes of well-developed stepson shoots is not inferior to the main shoots, and in many varieties it is even higher. A number of scientists have also found that the frost resistance of the eyes of normally developed stepsons is higher than that of the main shoots, due to the fact that they are formed during shorter days and low temperatures at night.

The average sample from each individual area and for each category of shoots should be from 10-15 to 20-25 shoots, cut to a length of up to 10-15 buds. On household plots and summer cottages where the number of bushes is limited, you can take 3-4 vines for analysis. If the bushes have already been pruned, then cut off the entire length of the fruit shoots.

Also read on the topic: Grapes in a greenhouse - greenhouse varieties and care

Bushes for sampling are selected along the diagonal of the site or in a grid manner - through a certain number of rows and bushes in a row so as to cover the entire site. One or two shoots are cut from each bush, and they are cut from different sides of the bush, at different heights and preferably with two-year-old wood. Cut vines are tied into bunches with a label indicating the variety, plot number, slope exposure, sampling date, etc. Samples cannot be taken from weak bushes or those with mechanical damage.

Under no circumstances should cut grape shoots for samples and samples be brought into the heat - if they thaw quickly, they will receive damage similar to frostbite. If it is frosty, it is recommended to move them to a room with a temperature of minus 1 minus 2 degrees for a day. After this, move them to a room where temperature regime about also around zero but with a positive temperature - 1-2 degrees above zero will do. In such a situation, the ice will slowly begin to thaw and the plant cells will painlessly absorb it like melt water.

Then the shoots must be transferred to a warm room where the air temperature is 10-15°C, and placed in water to a depth of 8-10 centimeters. Then it is recommended to renew sections of 1.5-2 cm and leave for 2 days. And only after this can you begin to determine the condition of the eyes and tissues of the grape shoots and the extent to which it was damaged by frost.

How do you know if a grapevine has been damaged by frost?

The condition of the tissues of the buds and shoots of grapes is determined by their natural browning. Damaged by frost or other unfavorable factors, grape tissues in the warmth after a few days acquire a color from dark brown to black, which is clearly visible visually on the cut of the eye or shoot (the cut of the eye is made lengthwise with a sharp knife, blade or razor). In this case, it is necessary to capture approximately a third of the eye.

The most favorable temperature in the room where the analysis is carried out is 10-20 degrees. If the temperature in the room is above 20 degrees, then it is advisable to change the water in the vessels daily and renew the ends of the shoots. The shoots under study should not be left near heating radiators.

The condition of the eyes is determined by the presence of healthy and dead buds. On a longitudinal section of the eye, three buds are usually visible, one of which, the most developed and differentiated, is located in the center (the main one), and two replacement, less developed ones, are on the sides.

If all three buds are not damaged and on the cut they have a bright green color characteristic of living tissues, then such an eye is considered healthy. The eye is considered damaged if one or two buds are dead, regardless of whether the main or replacement, and the third is healthy. If all three buds die, the eye is considered dead. All three groups of eyes are calculated as a percentage, taking their total number for each sample as one hundred percent.

Based on these analyses, the percentage of frozen buds and the nature (the buds along the length of the vine were affected) of frost damage are determined.

For the most precise definition condition of grape bushes affected by frost, take into account the length of pruning of the vine and the load on it.

When analyzing ocelli, attention is also paid to the condition of the underlying layer of the ocelli. It is located under the kidneys and is a thin layer of cells rich in chlorophyll. This layer has meristematic activity and can form bud primordia, which can develop into shoots during the growing season. If the analysis reveals that the underlying layer has a brown color, then it is considered dead.

To determine the condition of the shoot and the degree of damage that frost has caused to it, cuts are made on it - both transverse and longitudinal. By the color of the wood and bast, you can determine the condition of the shoot - if they partially darkened, acquired a brown tint not over the entire cut, then the grapes were not very damaged. If the damage is more severe (let's call it that - around 50%), then on the one-year-old grape shoot you will see a dark ring (frozen bast) and a darker layer of inner wood than on a healthy plant. Well, if the entire cut crossbar is dark brown, then the grapes have suffered very badly.

If the extent to which annual grapes suffered from frost is weak or moderate, then you can calm down - the grape plant will survive, the cambium will quickly replace the dead plant tissues with new ones and the bush will grow in the spring, all that remains is to remove the dried shoots that suffered the most from the frost.

If you see that the entire length of the one-year shoot has turned brown, and the eyes are seriously damaged, then the shoot will most likely die. In this case, you will have to check the remaining parts of the grape bush - the trunk, shoulders, etc. (that is, perennial parts of the plant).

Non-frostbitten parts are usually almost white or pale green in color. If they are frozen too, the color will be dark brown.

Often, the condition of annual vines and perennial parts of grapes is assessed in points. To do this, longitudinal sections of bast and wood are made.

If the damage in the form of black spots is single, then they are assessed at 1 point, but if the distance between them is 5-7 centimeters then 2 points, at 3-4 cm - 3 points, 1-2 cm - 4 points and complete cell necrosis ( black fabrics) - 5 points. This scheme is very inaccurate and is used only so that an inexperienced winegrower can visually assess the degree of damage to a plant damaged by frost.

How to find out if grape roots have been damaged by frost.

In order to find out whether the roots of the grapes have been damaged by severe frosts, you will have to excavate them after the ground around the vine has thawed. Dig a shallow hole at a distance of half a meter from the main, central shoot of the grapes (its depth depends on the severity of the frost, and how much you think the ground has frozen in winter) and analyze the condition along the entire hypothetical depth of freezing of the soil - as in the case of shoots, living and healthy roots will be white, frozen ones will be brown, almost black.

Pruning and breaking of grapes damaged by frost and frost.

Based on the results of the survey of vineyards, methods of pruning and cutting off bushes are developed. It is advisable to draw up a plan for performing these works for each variety and area separately. All of them are applicable both for small vineyards, in the country and for large farms.

Based on the degree and nature of the damage, the vineyards are divided into groups, each of which has a specific pruning technique.

The degree of freezing and damage caused to grapes as a result of frosts, spring frosts

Group 1 of plants - the plant was damaged so that no more than 60-70% of the buds died and the rest of the vine was not damaged.

In this case, prune as usual, at the usual time, but leaving more shoots with eyes. Consider the length of the vine based on the nature of the damage to the eyes on the shoot. If it is heterogeneous (for example, the eyes are damaged both above and below, as happens with strong wind in frosty weather) then leave longer vines in the lower part for the berries. If the eyes in the upper part of the shoots are frozen, then they need to be cut short, but in this case the shooter on the grape bush should be left larger than usual. Also in this case, you can leave more than usually well-developed stepchildren cut off by 3 eyes.

In the spring, remove unnecessary shoots. After severe frosts, even in the first group, leave only those that you plan to rejuvenate the trunks, shoulders and sleeves of the vine. Trim “tops”, double shoots, shoots on arrows and knots, as well as underdeveloped parts.

Considering the duration of the past frosts, it can be assumed that there will not be very many vineyards classified in group 1. These can mainly be isabella varieties, as well as interspecific hybrids: Crystal, Gibbernal, Gift of Magaracha.

2nd group of grapes affected by frost—more than 80-83% frostbite of the eyes with slight damage to annual vines, and possibly perennial wood. Such vineyards are pruned in two terms. First, the bushes are freed from all shoots, that is, thin, unripe ones, and cleared of tendrils. Leave all normally formed shoots and shoots. However, some vines will need to be pruned short by 2-4 buds in order to grow powerful shoots on the shoulders or sleeves to form a knot and fruit shoot (fruit link) next year.

After the green shoots reach a length of 8-10 cm, when the inflorescences are already clearly visible, the bushes are finally pruned with a piece of unnecessary green shoots. At the same time, sometimes it makes sense to leave the cut out sleeves and shoulders of grapes or parts thereof on the trellis until autumn, since their removal can lead to breaking off a significant number of green shoots and reducing the load on the bush with them. The second pruning must be done no later than ten days before the grapes begin to bloom.

If necessary, when cutting out shoots that have developed on the head of the bush, leave 1-2 to replace the sleeves or trunks. Top shoots are left on the sleeves and shoulders to form new fruiting links, as well as to shorten elongated sleeves. It is necessary to take into account that after partial damage to wood by frost during the subsequent growing season, the bushes may become chlorotic, which is associated with difficulties in the movement of nutrients through the vascular system damaged by frost.

The second group of plantings may include varieties that are interspecific hybrids such as Vostorg, Talisman, Northern Saperavi, Riton, Bianka, Dekabrsky and others.

3rd group - eyes and annual vines are almost completely damaged, and the old vine of the bush has minor damage. However, the roots were not damaged.

At the beginning of the spring season, weak and poorly ripened shoots on such bushes are completely removed, and normally developed vines are shortened to 3 lower buds or trimmed to the corner buds.

In this group, I advise you to especially take care when pruning the grape vine lying on the ground - covered with snow, it may not suffer at all, and then even in the worst case, you can still count on at least some share of the harvest from last year.

The restoration of the bush occurs due to the shoots that have developed on the head of the bush, and the top and corner shoots on the sleeves, trunks and shoulders. In such vineyards it is necessary to restore the formation in order to create favorable conditions for obtaining a high harvest next year. If there is a need to replace damaged sleeves and trunks, then 1-2 shoots are left on the head of the bush.

On the sleeves and shoulders they create the basis for future fruit links. To do this, the top shoots that have developed in the right place are pinched, leaving two or three lower nodes. From the developed two stepson shoots, fruit links are formed in the fall, cutting one for a replacement knot (2-3 eyes), and the other for a fruit shoot.

If the grapes are underloaded with green shoots, you can use pinching of the main shoots (at 10-12 nodes) so that the stepsons develop better.

When carrying out such pinching, it is necessary to remove the growing point with two or three nodes.

When the stepsons grow back next year, they can be used again to form a grape bush.

By the way, in some grape varieties (only early ones), for example, white Chasly, Aligote, etc., even in this case, you can get a small harvest of grapes on these artificial stepsons - in other varieties it simply does not have time to ripen.

On fan formations, the shoots left to form the sleeves are pinched at a height of 70-130 cm (depending on the required length of future sleeves). Of the developed stepsons, two or three upper ones are left, the rest are removed completely or leaving 2.3 lower nodes.

4th group - complete death of all above-ground parts of the bush with preservation of the root system. If the entire above-ground part of the bush has died, and the grafting site was covered with earth or covered with snow in the fall, then top shoots, as a rule, develop in the lower part of the trunk. If the grafting site and the lower part of the trunks or sleeves were open during frosts and died, then shoots grow from dormant buds on the underground trunk.

If these are self-rooted standard plantings, then early in the spring, after removing dead trunks, the bush is dug up to a depth of 25-30 cm and the underground trunk is cut to healthy tissue above the former node. To activate dormant buds, injections are made with pruning shears, a knife or a nail in several places on a node on the underground trunk, which significantly accelerates the awakening of dormant buds and the growth of shoots from them.

It is better to leave the cut underground trunk open to facilitate the development of shoots on it. From the emerging shoots or tops (grafted bushes), when broken off, 4 to 6-7 shoots are left. In this case, 2 shoots are used to form trunks and accelerate the development of the formation, and the rest are used to load the bush with eyes in order to obtain a harvest next year and prevent fattening of the remaining shoots.

The next year, the reserve shoots are cut long and tied obliquely to the first wire of the trellis in different directions from the bush. They are harvested and then completely removed during pruning.

You can develop a standard form quickly, leaving only one or two shoots and using well-known green operations (pinching and pinching). However, in this case, the shoots most often become fattened, their tissues turn out to be loose, highly watered, and have poor frost resistance. Therefore, additional shoots contribute to moderate growth of all those left and good ripening.

When restoring a fan-shaped four-armed formation, only five of the shoots that developed on the underground trunk are left, the rest are broken out. When the shoots reach a length of 70-120 cm (sleeve length), they are pinched. In this case, you need to pinch so that two shoots growing in different directions along the row are longer, and two are shorter. Of the emerging stepsons, the top 2-3 are left, and all the bottom ones are pinched over the 2-3rd leaf.

By autumn, from the abandoned stepsons, powerful vines grow, from which they form fruit links, cutting the lower ones into replacement knots (2-3-eye ones), and the upper ones into fruit shoots (pruning length depending on the varietal characteristics). One shoot is cut short (by 2-3 eyes), forming a restoration knot at the base of the bush. This method allows you to completely restore a bush cut “on the black head” in one year.

In grafted vineyards, the sleeves or trunks are cut off above the grafting site and the formations are restored in the same way as in self-rooted vineyards, using top shoots.

Sometimes, even with significant damage to the trunks or sleeves, top shoots may develop on them in the upper part. Some growers may be tempted to use them to restore shape. In our opinion, this should not be done at all aboveground part Still, it is necessary to remove it, and create sleeves or trunks again from coppice or top shoots. After all, damaged by frost to a large extent vascular system perennial parts of the bush cannot provide the normal upward and downward flow of moisture and nutrients, and the plants will only exist and wither. You will never get normal yield from them. Therefore, taking advantage of the critical situation, it is better to rejuvenate such bushes by re-creating the above-ground part.

On grafted bushes, in which the adhesion site and the lower part of the trunks or sleeves have not been hilled up for the winter, death of the scion part may be observed. In this case, shoots of rootstock will begin to develop below the commissure site. Such bushes can be restored either by grafting into a split in an underground trunk, or different ways green grafting, best by simple copulation or budding in the butt.

However, restoration of bushes with a dead aerial part in this way is only possible in household and collective vineyards if there is no large quantities plants. In industrial vineyards, it is unrealistic to use this method; they will most likely have to be uprooted.

Group 5 - damage to roots with a diameter of up to 2.5 mm with preservation of the main root system. When pruning bushes, the load is significantly reduced by leaving fewer fruit vines and cutting them short.

Frostbite of roots that have not reached 0.3 cm in diameter, which are usually located in the upper part of the soil, is not scary. But when larger roots, the so-called conductive ones, which are located in more deep layers land, the load of grape bushes on the harvest will have to be significantly reduced. Here, “I don’t care if I’m still alive” - such a grape bush will take about 1-2, or even three years to recover.

During the season, you will have to take care of such a bush more than usual - apply fertilizers, loosen it even when you have not done this before. For grapes like this, when pruning, trim the vine more (shorter) than usual.

Well, the worst outcome is when the underground, root trunk and entire root system of the grapes are frozen - such grapes can no longer be saved - don’t waste time, uproot them and plant a new one, taking into account past mistakes. The article “How and when to plant grapes correctly” can help you with this.

We really hope that these tips will help you restore your favorite grapes, and you will delight your grandchildren with sunny berries.

Preparing grapes for wintering includes several important steps.

1. Watering

This mandatory procedure, which ensures the accumulation of moisture reserves by the beginning of the next season. The vineyard is watered in October (before pruning). If autumn is dry, the soil needs to be moistened until the ground gets wet to a depth of 50-100 cm.

2. Trimming

There is no specific date for pruning. Winegrowers focus on the condition of the vine: it must be ripe, that is, lignified (dark brown in color). When bent, such a vine creates a kind of crack, but does not break. The purpose of pruning is to free the plant from unnecessary foliage, as a result, all nutrition and energy will be used to create, ripen and accumulate sugar in the bunch. All pruning is based on the Guyot system, according to which in the first year after planting (I welcome only summer planting), one shoot is grown, and in the fall it is pruned into three eyes. Next year, two shoots are grown, which are pruned in the fall: one shoot for the fruit shoot, the second for three eyes (this will be a replacement knot). In March, a dry garter is carried out: the fruit shoot is raised to a height of 20 cm. This is the simplest shaping. All others consist of a combination of perennial wood (these are shoulders or sleeves) and fruit links.

3. Shelter

In my opinion and as practice shows, sawdust - best material for covering grapes. And the thicker their layer, the better. In case of sudden changes in weather, absence of snow cover, which Lately typical of our winters. sawdust will hold desired temperature. True, many winegrowers are worried that sawdust is an excellent refuge for mice. In fact, by the time of the first frost (when they cover the vine) rodents usually have already found a home and will not disturb the grapes. The cut shoulders, as well as the fruit links formed on them, are carefully untied from the trellis and laid on the ground. The stiff, and these are mostly old, sleeves are carefully folded (at the same time they will create a characteristic crack; the main thing is not to overdo it, so as not to break it!) and pinned to the soil with staples. The top is covered with sawdust (shavings), then with fallen leaves, straw, stems of dry plants, etc.

Below are other entries on the topic “Do-it-yourself cottage and garden”

Every experienced gardener knows about great value has a favorable neighborhood of plants. So, for example, when deciding which vegetable crop to plant next to grapes, it is necessary to take into account that if some representatives of the flora influence it positive impact, then others, on the contrary, are negative. Let's look at this issue in more detail.

Research by L. Moser

Global research in the field of compatibility of vegetable and garden crops with grapes was carried out by the Austrian winegrower Lenz Moser, publisher of the famous book “Viticulture in a New Way.” When writing your scientific work scientist on personal practical experience experienced more than 17 dozen different vegetable crops, planted near grapes. What conclusions did Moser come to?

The scientist proved that grape bushes that grew in soil freed from weeds are significantly retarded in growth compared to those bushes that were not weeded properly between August and late autumn. Moser recommends leaving naturally growing weeds under the grapes, but only if they are not malicious. However, from such wild plants, like wheatgrass, sow thistle or bellflower, it is better to discard them; cultivated plants should be planted in their place.

Best neighbors

Celandine and dill have a positive effect on the grapevine. Thanks to them, seedlings become less vulnerable to various diseases. A high harvest of grapes helps to obtain sorrel planted near it, and, interestingly, this feature persists even with insufficient water supply to the grape bushes. Plants compatible with grapes also include representatives of bulbous plants, namely tulips, daffodils and hyacinths.

The active growth and development of the grapevine is also promoted by such flora representatives as spinach and basil. The fact is that these plants contain saponin - biologically active substance, which has a beneficial effect on grape bushes. Moser in his works also states the fact of the positive proximity of grapes to peas, onions, garden radish, cauliflower, beets, melon, strawberries, carrots, bush beans, poppy seeds, watercress.

Grape bushes and roses

Since ancient times, roses have been planted next to grape bushes in Europe. In those days roses were reserved protective function: Horses always grazed in places they liked, but when they pricked roses on thorns, they turned back without trampling the vineyards. However, in modern times it has been reliably established that roses and grapes are excellent neighbors, who also have similar agrotechnical cultivation characteristics.

So, the diseases of these plants are the same, but the signs of one or another ailment will always appear first on the rose bushes, which makes it possible to carry out preventive treatments of the grapes in a timely manner, thereby saving the plant and preserving the harvest.

The neighbor who lives behind the door opposite is a master of gold, always ready to help, not like the elderly neighbor downstairs, who constantly breaks into a scream and collects gossip about everything and everyone. This situation happens not only among people, but also among grapes.

He gets along well with some plants next to him, receiving only benefits from their proximity, but he cannot get along with other representatives of the flora, drooping from melancholy and decreased quantity. useful substances in the soil.

Grapes and pears are excellent neighbors

Even experienced gardeners sometimes begin to be at a loss: will the grapes like this plant, a bush with berries, onions, vegetables, other grape varieties, or is it better not to risk it and plant them in different corners of the garden, preferably opposite ones. In order to deal with doubts, this review was created. Below you will find out with what grapes are ready to establish friendly ties, and with which plants hostilities may break out. Beginning summer residents will also learn why to plant different plants nearby.

Be friends with your neighbor, but hold on to your saber

Allelopathy - the science of friendship and enmity

Allelopathy is the property of closely growing vegetables, bushes and other plants to influence each other. The main culprit is chemical substances, secreted by each plant and forming a kind of biochemical protection: they influence the neighbors quietly growing nearby. The influence can be either positive, stimulating the growth of a neighbor, say a grape, or negative, suppressing its development. The substances released by the green creature consist of many elements, including sugars, acids, essential oils and toxins.

Allelopathy is important for people involved in agriculture, and is not important on an industrial scale or on a local scale. For summer residents, knowledge of this science will help them correctly place small area vegetables, herbs and greens, thereby increasing the yield.

Bad neighbors of grapes: calendula (marigold), parsley, yarrow, clary sage

Pests are a real scourge for any cottage. They penetrate everywhere and everywhere. Having sunk their teeth into your favorite onion, cabbage or grapes, they quickly spread throughout the garden bed and if you don’t take action in time, you can forget about a great harvest. The secret is that pests find their victims by smell.

If you plant, for example, garlic or dill, then you practically don’t have to worry about the vines.

The influence of neighbors on each other can be more complex than just negative and positive. Thus, corn planted with legumes will grow much slower than its counterparts, but the harvest will be richer.

Criterias of choice

The choice of what to plant with is based on the following criteria:

In cramped conditions and offended. It is recommended to arrange the plantings in such a way that they do not crowd together, taking away crumbs of space from each other. You can find manuals on sale or on the Internet explaining how much distance should be left between vegetables and bushes.

Good neighbors of grapes: dill, hyacinth, yarrow, strawberry

Light. Plants desperately fight for light because it is the basis of their life. Many representatives of the flora are light-loving, so the main thing here is not to plant a light-loving, but low plant in the shade of a tall one. But some feel great living under other plants - which means these greens prefer shade to sun. The former include dill, cabbage and eggplant and should be planted with neighbors of similar size. Basil, cumin, carrots - they love sparse shade and can be planted under dill, which provides enough light. Mint and periwinkle will not feel intrusive if planted in dense shade.

Cabbage is an unfortunate neighbor, as grapes take away the light from it

Soil and moisture. Nutrients and moisture are collected by the roots and nourish the plant. The lack of these elements results in a depressed state, illnesses and slow dying. In human settlements, where famine began, local residents out of desperation they engaged in cannibalism and fought fiercely with each other for every moldy edge of bread. The same can be said about plants, but if in nature only the strong and cunning survive, then at the dacha a gardener can adjust strict laws and avoid the death of participants in the struggle for food.

Legumes and grapes grow well nearby

“Adjust” means carrying out a strict selection for the title of neighbor, since simply abundant moistening of the earth and its enrichment with fertilizers good results will not give. Some vegetables, instead of stopping quarreling, grow a branched root system, which does not stop their arguing. In addition, not all vegetables turn out tasty in rich soil: an excess is just as harmful as a deficiency.

Therefore, when choosing neighbors for grapes, the first thing you should pay attention to is the roots and nutrient requirements.

Vegetables with deep-lying roots are less dependent on other plants in the garden, as opposed to vegetables with a root system lying close to the surface.

The difference is in care. Different cultures differ in their care requirements. Some plants need a lot of moisture, others come from dry areas and do not like water. So, let's say cucumbers need a lot of water so as not to taste bitter, but onions Excess moisture is harmful, so planting these two vegetables together is a bad idea.

Corn is a very bad neighbor. because it takes away nutrients

Crops also create inconveniences in terms of harvesting: one is already ready for consumption, while the other needs a little more time to ripen, as a result of which the hand accidentally grabs unripe fruits.

Choosing friends

In fact, there are quite a lot of plants with which grapes feel comfortable in the same bed. Best neighbors, TOP variations:

Helps get rid of excess moisture drainage system, or you can raise the strawberry bed higher. The distance between the berries and the trellises varies from 50 cm to 1 meter.

Other grape varieties - but this issue is worth considering separately.

Varieties relationships

Beginning winegrowers are in no hurry to plant different varieties together. A justified fear, because cultivation takes more than one year. A person who has not been involved in planting this crop has to delve into everything from books and advice from experienced people; he is surrounded by a sea of ​​contradictory information, among which in the first place are the demands made by the grapevines on their owner - the guardian. The fears are unfounded. Different varieties feel great together.

Different grape varieties bear fruit well next to each other

The tradition of planting grape bushes together is associated with the nature of this plant. Varieties are bisexual and female.

The former pollinate themselves with their own fertile pollen. In female varieties, the pollen is not fertile, that is, it is inferior, sterile, it is not suitable for pollinating flowers, and without this, the ovaries will not form, and the harvest will not work. It is advantageous to plant female varieties together with pollinating varieties: the neighbor will pollinate the flowers of a sterile companion and contribute to the emergence of a crop. Pollination by an outside bush will also be beneficial and the yield from such a neighborhood will be higher, the berries will be larger in size and tastier.

It is correct to place together varieties that have the same fruiting period.

Either enemies or friends

Onions, radishes and sorrel, beets and strawberries are not the only neighbors that have a beneficial effect; flowers, for example, can be included in the list pansies or asters. Compatibility with roses, fruit trees and shrubs is ambiguous. In the old days, roses were often planted between bushes with grape berries to protect the latter from being trampled by free-roaming cattle. Now that the problem with horses and cows is almost settled, there remains one more reason why it is worth planting prickly flowers with grapes.

Mildew disease is a terrible nightmare for winegrowers, destroying their offspring and the fruits of hard work. Roses are also susceptible to this disease, and even to a greater extent, and if they are placed near the grape plantings, between them, the flowers can be used as an alarm and a call to mobilize the wine-growing team. Roses will also warn about excess heavy metals into the ground and decorate the garden with their presence.

Grapes and roses suffer from the same diseases, so they need to be planted away from each other

Fruit trees are another controversial neighborhood. Vines, no matter what variety, need sunlight, but if you plant them in a circle of shadow falling from the crown, growth problems will begin. The second problem is at the underground level. The roots of the tree are powerful and developed; the grape roots have nothing to oppose them. Tree roots will take the lion's share of nutrients from their neighbor and the productivity of the latter will noticeably lag behind the bar. Almost the only one fruit tree, which gardeners can plant near the vines is a pear.

The pear is a recognized neighbor for grapes; both plants are tolerant of each other.

The proximity to currants and raspberry bushes is acceptable until the effect that the smell of the bushes can have on the vines and their fruits has been studied. Indirect harm to the roots of the latter will come from caring for currant bushes - they need regular watering in the summer, unlike grape roots. As a result, additional, dewy roots of the latter will develop to the detriment of the main ones, and this will lead to sad consequences from cracking of the berries to a decrease in resistance to frost.

Currants are a neutral neighbor for grapes

Beware of enemies

It is worth noting the fact that not all summer residents agree on the beneficial and negative influence plants on top of each other. Some believe that sorrel and onions, noted in this article as useful plants, actually harm the grapes. A recommendation is advice, but gardens are different. At one dacha, onions are a wonderful neighbor, but at another, they are a blood enemy that has to be rooted out with a fight. Monitor the behavior of your green players and react sensitively to changes in their well-being; this tactic will help you avoid trouble.

Nettle is an antagonist of grapes and is very depressing

Potatoes, eggplants and capsicums cannot be planted with grape bushes.

Weeds can be both pests and beneficial neighbors. If you plant bushes on bare ground, they will grow “creakingly” - slowly and sadly, lagging behind their fellows growing on the green carpet. The grass acts as a kind of fertilizer for the soil, enriches it, saving it from overdrying and hardening. Grapevines will not survive on bare ground. WITH reverse side, weeds were not called weeds because they have pretty eyes. Grass takes away nutrients from young plantings, which is why they cannot develop and grow at a normal pace, so an excess of weeds is just as harmful as their complete absence. The size of the weeds also matters: according to tall grass pests deftly move from the ground to low-hanging grapes.

Weeds protect grapes from drying out

A good neighborhood is good for the vines. Sow strawberries and radishes, but make sure that the bushes like their presence.

Neighbors of grapes. Very often the question arises of what can be planted and what cannot be planted near a grape bush. The Austrian scientist Lenz Moser studied this issue in most detail. He compiled a classification of friends and antagonists of grapes. It is given below, with the usefulness score for grapes indicated in brackets.

Neighbors of grapes. Plants beneficial for grapes

• sour sorrel (+53)
• peas (+45)
• great celandine (+37)
• yellow mustard (+28)
• onions (+28)
• garden radish (+25)
• chard (+25)
• pansies (+24)
• cauliflower (+23)
• radishes (+22)
• garden spinach (+22)
• table beets (+22)
• alfalfa (+18)
• melon (+14)
• strawberry (+14)
• carrots (+13)
• cucumber (+13)
• dill (+5)
• white cabbage (+5)
• common bush beans (+2)
• watercress (+2)
• sleeping pill poppy (+1).

Neighbors of grapes. Plants neutral for grapes (usefulness score – 0)

• fennel
• garlic
• kohlrabi
• pumpkin
• creeping clover.

Neighbors of grapes. Plants slightly harmful to grapes

• eggplant (-2)
• St. John's wort (-3)
• shepherd's purse (-3)
• parsley (-6)
• sweet clover (-12)
• physalis (-12)
• red clover (-12)
• potatoes (-13)
• pepper (-13)
• thyme (-15)
• celery (-18)
• caraway seeds (-18)
• fragrant chamomile (-19)
• woodlice (-20).

Neighbors of grapes. Plants antagonistic to grapes

• dandelion officinalis (-21)
• sunflower (-21)
• common wormwood (-21)
• clematis (-21)
• stinging nettle (-23)
• plantain (-23)
• medicinal marigolds (-23)
• meadow bluegrass ( lawn grass) (-24)
• cornflower blue (-24)
• hemp seed (-24)
• elecampane (-25)
• lettuce (leaf) (-25)
• leek (-28)
• creeping wheatgrass (-28)
• tomatoes (-30)
• chives (-30)
• toadflax (-31)
• tansy (-32)
• large plantain (-33)
• horseradish (-35)
• knotweed (knotweed) (-35)
• wormwood (-41)
• field bindweed (-41)
• corn (-42)
• black nightshade (late) (-42)
• yarrow (-45).

As growing experience shows, on personal plot near the grape bushes every year, today peas, next year potatoes, etc. In such a short period of time it is unlikely that there will be a significant impact on the positive or bad influence plants on top of each other. It’s another matter if grapes and tomatoes grew side by side for several years, then we could say that secretions into the soil, microflora or other factors of these plants inhibit each other. Or the plants would grow in a very limited volume of soil and air (for example, in).

There are certain doubts about this classification; the most useful plant for grapes is sorrel. The peculiarity of this culture is its adherence to, while grapes are neutral, or even slightly alkaline. A reason to think.

There is a lot of evidence of the successful joint growth of tomatoes, onions, flowers and. So, I leave the degree of reliability of the above classification to the discretion of the readers.

In Fig. 1 and 2 grapes (Crimean Pearl variety) in different years adjacent to the later white cabbage and calendula without damaging the yield of both crops.

On a note: When planting vegetable plants or flowers next to grapes, you should take into account the factor of shading each other. On the one hand, by mid-June an adult forms a shaded place around itself, and not every plant tolerates shade well. On the other hand, tall vegetables (tomatoes, beans, etc.) themselves are capable of shading the grape bush in its lower part. But that’s where the grapes that don’t like shade are located.

Gardener's tip: Another nuance is that grapes require processing, especially in June. If you plant garden strawberries, which ripen in June, next to grapes, then processing the grapes will be problematic, because inevitably some of the pesticides will get on ripe strawberries. And this is unacceptable.

Therefore, choose a grape neighbor so that they do not interfere with each other, and you are comfortable.

Important: Whatever the neighbor, it should be placed at a distance of at least 0.5 m from the grapes. Otherwise, when carrying out operations with the green parts of the bush, you will inevitably trample these crops.