Installation of plasterboard sheets on walls. Do-it-yourself plasterboard walls - make strong and reliable structures yourself

On this moment Installing drywall is one of the most economical solutions for renovations in an apartment or private house. Using this building material, you can easily get rid of defects in walls or ceilings, achieving a perfectly smooth surface. It is also effective as a building material from which arches, boxes for masking communications and other decorative elements can be made. In this article we will look at the technology of attaching it to walls and ceilings.

Features of the material and its application

First, let's look at what this building material is like and what characteristics it has. Drywall consists of three layers: two external ones (made of special cardboard), and an internal one (made of gypsum with additives). The weight of a standard size product can reach 30 kg. Depending on what additives are used in production (hereinafter referred to as gypsum boards, plasterboard sheets), there are:

• Regular plasterboard,
• fire-resistant – GKLO,
• moisture resistant - gypsum plasterboard.

The most common are ordinary sheets, which are used when working on the walls and ceiling of a room being renovated. Moreover, different thicknesses of the material are suitable for different elements. For example, attaching plasterboard to the ceiling implies the use of building material with a thickness of 9-9.5 mm, for walls - 12.5 mm, for decorative elements(arches, etc.) – 6 mm. The easiest way to install walls is from plasterboard - fastening can be done even by one person. Read about how to do this in this article.

Any installation technology involves the use of special fastening profiles. There are several separate types of profiles:

• ceiling
• wall
• rack-mount
• guides.

Usually, maximum length such profiles do not exceed 4 m.

Preparatory work

Preparation for installation of sheets is a critical stage of work, on which the future of the planned repair depends. Preparatory work includes selecting the tools necessary for installation procedures, as well as assessing the working surface on which the sheets will be mounted.

Installation tool

Since installation work plasterboard sheets require extreme precision; among the necessary tools are such items as a level, a tracer, a square, a tape measure, and a pencil. This set will allow you to accurately determine the locations for the profile fastenings. We will also need a hammer drill, metal scissors, a special plane and knife for drywall, a screwdriver (how to fix drywall without such a convenient tool? Read about it) - they will allow you to securely fix and refine the finishing surface.

Assessing the condition of the working surface

Before starting cladding, regardless of what surface it is mounted on, a thorough inspection of the plane is carried out. Great importance has the composition of the building material from which the walls or ceiling are made, as well as the air humidity that will subsequently be established in the room. After assessing the situation, a specific type of finish and suitable fasteners are selected. For residential premises, standard materials are best suited for bathrooms or basements, characterized by high air humidity - moisture resistant. For an arch you need to choose a special arch material!

Selection of fasteners

When installing on a stone surface (concrete, brick, etc.), fasteners such as dowels are used (usually for such types of work their length reaches 40 mm and diameter 6 mm). For fastening on surfaces made of less dense materials (for example, silicate blocks, etc.), installation of drywall is carried out using dowels with a large diameter and length (8 by 80 mm). Self-tapping screws are used for wood surfaces.

Preparing the working surface for installing drywall

At this stage, the main work consists of measuring the parameters of the base surface for installing the structure on which the sheets will subsequently be attached, as well as marking it for the mounting suspension.

Ceiling markings

Regardless of whether we are going to make a ceiling from plasterboard or a wall, before fastening it is necessary to carefully mark the surface and prepare it for installing the profile. Considering that ceilings are not always perfectly horizontal (moreover, builders often lay floor slabs at an angle), it is necessary first of all to find the lowest angle of the ceiling. To do this, use a tape measure to measure the distance from each corner of the ceiling to the floor (you can simply use a level). Having decided on the lowest point of the ceiling, you can begin further work. By the way, it is the lower part of the ceiling that will serve as the starting point when lowering the ceiling from plasterboard sheets. When you have decided on the height of the ceiling, it’s time to mount the profile around the perimeter (as a rule, preference is given to UD 27, but for different rooms it is advisable to use a different type of profile) at a distance of at least 4 cm from the base ceiling. After this, you can begin marking for the mounting suspension.

Wall marking

The marking of the wall is carried out in the same way as the ceiling. There are only a few nuances: the perimeter profile is installed at a distance of at least 5 centimeters from the wall, and the distance between the marking lines is not 40 (as for the ceiling), but 60 centimeters. As for the placement of marks for mounting the mounting suspension, it is the same as for the ceiling. If you plan to make a niche in the wall, then this must be taken into account when marking the wall.

Fastening hangers and profiles

The technology for installing drywall involves the use of fastening hangers (type ES or others), as well as knitting needles with a rotating hanger and an eye. We will be looking at ES suspensions. We will assume that we have already installed all the suspensions on the ceiling (wall) at strictly marked points. Using metal scissors, we shorten the CD profile along the length of the lines marked on the ceiling, but shorter by about 10 mm. These profiles are inserted into the UD profile previously installed around the perimeter and are oriented inside the ES mounting hangers. Here it is important to achieve the exact horizontal position of the CD profiles. We use a level to make adjustments. We secure the CD profile using small metal screws, and bend the excess edge of the ES suspension. To strengthen the base, you can additionally connect our parallel CD profiles with crab fastenings, using pieces of the CD profile specially cut for this purpose (40 and 60 centimeters long - for the ceiling and wall, respectively).

If the room parameters are such that the standard sheet sizes are not suitable, you need to cut it to give it required parameters. A knife is used for this; the edges of the cut are additionally processed with a special plane. It should be understood that the location of the CD profile on the surface must be such that all edges of the plasterboard sheets fall on the profile. This is one of the most important fastenings, so this recommendation should not be neglected. So, we can say that the frame is ready.

Installation of gypsum boards

Once again we check the parameters of the frame for installing plasterboard sheets. After this, we fasten them with screws for metal with a length of 25 mm. In this case, you need to adhere to a simple rule: the distance between the fasteners is no more than 25 centimeters, and the self-tapping screw must be screwed in perfectly (the cap does not protrude and is not deeply buried in the finishing material). Next, putty is applied to give the seams and places where screws are screwed in a perfectly smooth appearance. Used for putty special compounds, as well as a crescent film, which improves the adhesive properties of putty and cladding. Only after this can we say that the sheets are finally installed and ready for subsequent decoration. Also, for wet rooms, laying tiles on drywall is relevant, which we described in detail.

How much will it cost from third party specialists?

Name of works	Cost of work per 1 m2, rub.	Cost of materials per 1 m2, rub.	Total, rub.
Plasterboard partitions
with 1 layer covering on each side	420	400	820
with 2 layers of lining on each side	520	530	1050
Wall cladding with plasterboard
in 1 layer on a metal frame	300	300	600
in 2 layers on a metal frame	350	380	730
Plasterboard ceilings
in 1 layer, on a metal frame	420	300	720
in 2 layers, on a metal frame	500	370	870

More and more builders are choosing to use drywall instead of other materials. After all, this material is easy to work with and can be used to perform a wide range of tasks. Thanks to gypsum plasterboard, even the crooked walls can become perfectly smooth without cracks or differences. And creating a single or multi-level ceiling will not be difficult. Many designers are turning to drywall to create unique interiors with decorative niches and arches.

Installation of drywall on the wall using a frame method

An undeniable advantage of gypsum board is its versatility, which was mentioned above. In addition, drywall does not crumble over time, when correct operation There are no cracks or irregularities.

Drywall sheets will help bring any design idea to life

Another important argument is that drywall is suitable for carrying pipes, cables and wires into the voids of the structure. Even when it comes to plating water pipes or about rooms with high humidity, then gypsum plasterboards with moisture-resistant properties can help here.

Let us also note the environmental friendliness of this material. Neither gypsum nor cardboard emit harmful substances during operation.

Tool preparation

When planning to install gypsum boards on walls, first prepare all the components. Remember that only the correct installation technology will allow you to create high-quality walls.

Choose drywall based on the location of application. In places with high humidity, GKLV will do an excellent job. And in rooms where flammable products are stored, fire-resistant gypsum plasterboard is suitable. The more properties a gypsum board has, the more expensive it is. But use standard sheets in conditions not intended for it, it is fraught with damage to coatings.

In addition to the gypsum board sheets themselves, you will need several types of profiles and components - dowels, screws, etc. List of tools:

• Laser level or a regular analogue with threads;
• Tape measure, markers, construction knife;
• Metal scissors;
• Hammer or drill (professionals use a gas gun to quick installation all guides to the walls);
• Screwdriver;
• Cutter;
• Spatula for sealing seams.

This is what the main set of tools looks like

The most labor-intensive process is the installation of a wall frame for gypsum boards. What is important here is the correct technology for laying the profile according to the markings made.

If you are faced with the question of choosing a frame made of galvanized steel or wood, then we will immediately note that using wood involves risks. They are that the tree itself is very unpredictable construction material. It does not have durability and is susceptible to rotting and deterioration when exposed to high humidity.

When working with surfaces made of concrete and brick, dowels 40 millimeters long are used. In cases where the frame is attached to more soft materials, it is recommended to use long dowels (80 millimeters). When covering walls made of wood, you can safely use self-tapping screws.

Making the markings

Marking technology requires concentration and correct use tool. The best assistant here is a laser level. But it is irrational to purchase such expensive equipment for one-time installation of gypsum boards on the wall. Therefore, marking more often occurs using a regular level and additional components.

Thanks to the laser level, professionals make markings in minutes

Having measured the required distance for carrying out communications and laying insulation, a plumb line is fixed on the ceiling, closer to the corner of the wall. At the point where it touches the floor, make a mark (screw in a self-tapping screw). This procedure is done in every corner of the room. Then, to facilitate the marking process, stretch the thread between the horizontal points. Having transferred the lines to the ceiling and floor, the threads are removed. Now you can start installing the profile.

When marking, remember that the wider the indentation from the base of the wall, the more area of ​​the room is “eaten up”. The profile is mounted along this line, and the gypsum board, putty and final coating will increase the thickness by another 1.5-2 centimeters. But the minimum indentation should still be at least four centimeters. Draw the drawing so that it does not get erased after several careless movements along the lines.

Surface marking

Installing the frame

The profile installation technology is simple and only requires correct execution all steps. The guides are attached with dowels to the ceiling and floor, and it is recommended to use sealing tape. Galvanized steel is cut using tin snips.

Next, mark the places where the rack profiles will be installed. They are attached at a distance of 40-60 centimeters (measured from the center of the previous profile). This will allow installation of drywall joints directly in the center of the profile.

If you plan to mount heavy objects on the wall (kitchen cabinets, shelves, plasma TV), then it is recommended to install the profile at intervals of 40 centimeters with the installation of horizontal jumpers in the places of future fastening. This will simplify further installation attachments and will prevent fastening materials from being pulled out of the walls.

The rack profiles are carefully inserted first into the lower guides, and then into the upper ones according to the given markings. After this, the racks are attached to the wall using hangers.

Build process metal frame under the cladding

Horizontal profiles are needed to secure drywall joints and provide greater rigidity in areas where attachments will be installed. After securing all the elements, the frame is ready for final stage wall installation.

Further technology involves carrying out communications and laying insulation. You can do without wall insulation, but as practice shows, this helps not only to retain heat, but also to create better sound insulation of the room.

Wall covering and preparation for finishing

The final stage involves installing drywall on the wall. When starting to cut gypsum plasterboard, remember the fragility of the material. Having cut the top layer of cardboard on one side and not completely cut it on the other, the sheet is placed on the edge of the support and smoothly split. After this, the sheet is turned over, the cardboard is cut and broken to the end. To process such edges, a plasterboard plane is used, but you can do without it, working with a construction knife.

Processing of joints

The sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws at the junctions with the vertical and transverse slats. The sheets are arranged in a checkerboard pattern, placing a short sheet of drywall in each row, either top or bottom. The sheets are joined strictly in the center of the guide, avoiding sagging. Each gypsum board is screwed to the frame along the edges and in the center at a distance of 40-60 cm. If the sheets have a straight edge, then it is recommended to chamfer the vertical joints. This will allow you to better fill the joints.

More details in the video:

If sockets or switches are supposed to be placed on such a wall, then they need to be taken care of in advance. The terminals for sockets and lamps are marked and cut out before mounting on the wall. Then it will be difficult to do this, you can ruin the sheet.

Metal corner protects walls from dents after impacts

Having completed the wall covering, they begin to prepare the surface for applying the finishing coating. All joints are carefully puttied and glued with a special reinforced mesh. This mesh will bind the putty material and securely fasten the joints.

External and internal corners of the wall are reinforced with corners to impart rigidity and prevent crumbling of the plasterboard.

Before you start puttingty for painting or wallpapering, it makes sense to prime the new walls. The primer will help even out the absorbent properties of the surface, prevent the appearance of microflora and improve adhesion to wallpaper or paint.

In contact with

How to install drywall sheets.

Installation of the frame for gypsum boards.

Installing gypsum boards on walls.

Pre-treatment of walls.

Necessary materials and tools for gluing the material.

Drywall has long occupied its niche in the market. It enjoys well-deserved popularity as it is a universal material that can be attached to walls or ceilings or used as a partition. However, depending on the installation location, installation methods will change, and various tricks will appear that must be taken into account when carrying out work.

Drywall is used to level walls and ceilings indoors.

There are several ways to install drywall on walls: on a metal or wooden frame or with glue. Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages. It is worth considering them in more detail.

Frame installation on walls: necessary materials and tools.

This method is applicable to any premises, regardless of their size and purpose. The frame is used when covering walls and ceilings, as well as when constructing a partition from gypsum plasterboard. It is worth noting that the sheathing in all cases is assembled almost the same way.

Nomenclature of profiles for gypsum boards.

On initial stage it is necessary to prepare all materials and tools. To carry out the work you will need.

assembly knife.

screws for wood or metal (depending on the material of the sheathing.

scissors or hacksaw for metal.

profiles or slats.

mounting hangers.

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Preparing the walls and marking the base.

Important! Preparation of the base includes cleaning the wall from easily peelable coatings, repairing if there is significant damage, and removing deformations.

Scheme single-level ceiling from plasterboard.

The next stage is marking. It is necessary to make an indent from the wall to be closed to the distance necessary for laying communications and insulation. Next, the location of the guide profiles located on the floor and ceiling, as well as on the walls, is noted. All guides must be in the same plane. Then it is noted where the rack profiles will be located. The distance between them should be 40-60 cm. In this case, it is necessary to calculate the distance so that the edges of the plasterboard sheets lie on the profiles and do not fall into the gap between them.

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Installation of the frame for gypsum boards.

Next, the frame is assembled. First of all, guide profiles are installed on the floor and ceiling. The reliability of the entire structure will depend on them, so they must be secured very carefully. The profiles are installed using dowels in increments of 40-60 cm. Next, guides on the walls are installed in a similar way.

Scheme of fastening a metal frame under drywall.

Then, mounting plumbs are mounted to the wall along the line of the supporting profiles. The step is 60 cm. On adjacent lines, it is advisable to shift the plumb lines relative to each other. You can arrange them in a checkerboard pattern. This will give greater strength and rigidity to the structure. Next, rack profiles are inserted into the guides and moved into place. They are attached to guides and plumb lines. Self-tapping screws can be used for this operation. If the plumb lines have “ears” left, they should be wrapped inside the frame. After installing the vertical profiles, begin installing the transverse ones. All operations are performed in the same way.

If the profile is too long, it can be trimmed using a hacksaw or tin snips. If, on the contrary, it is short, then it is necessary to increase the length using special connectors. The lathing from wooden blocks is assembled in the same way.

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Installing gypsum boards on walls.

The last step is installation of drywall. However, before moving on to the final stage, it is necessary to resolve the issue of noise and heat insulation of the room. Mineral wool, foam sheets, and cork can be used as insulation. All these materials absorb sound well. Installation of communications and laying of engineering systems is carried out before the walls are covered with plasterboard. When the room is insulated and all communications are connected, you can begin installing the sheets. To do this you will need metal screws.

Important! The gypsum board is drilled every 30-40 cm to all frame profiles.

During installation, the following rules must be observed.

Scheme for processing drywall seams.

The sheets should be laid in a checkerboard pattern or like brickwork.

GCR can be mounted both vertically and horizontally.

Self-tapping screws are screwed into the material at right angles; deviations are unacceptable. The heads must be recessed into the plasterboard by at least 1 mm. The tails extend from the profile by at least 10 mm.

The panels must be securely fixed around the perimeter and in the center to prevent sagging. The edges of the sheets must be laid on the profile.

When attaching gypsum boards, it is necessary to make an indent from the edge of the sheet with a factory cut of at least 10 mm, with your own cut at least 15 mm.

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Pros and cons of this type of drywall installation.

This method has many more positive aspects; it is used more often.

Walls are leveled even with significant differences, holes or protrusions.

all base flaws are masked.

reliable fastening of drywall.

there is no need for careful preparation of the base, its leveling, etc.

the possibility of additional insulation and soundproofing of the room.

no “wet” operations.

can be used in any room.

There are only three main disadvantages.

reducing the area of ​​the room.

low maintainability.

There is no solid wall behind the gypsum board.

If assembling the frame seems too troublesome, you can try simply gluing the material to the walls.

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Fastening drywall with glue.

It is not always possible to glue drywall. It can only be used if the following conditions are met.

Scheme of covering walls with plasterboard on a metal frame.

There is no need for additional heat or sound insulation of the room. Fasten the gypsum boards properly to mineral wool or other material is impossible: after a while it will fall off.

Irregularities on the walls do not exceed 20 mm. Otherwise, the sheets will warp, like the base, or will not stick, since the glue in the depressions simply will not reach the wall.

The height of the room does not exceed the length of the sheet. Standard size panels are 2500x1200 mm. If the height is greater, then you will have to look for a sheet 3 m long, but these are not available everywhere. It is not allowed to increase the length using cut pieces. This is difficult to do smoothly and at the same time efficiently.

If at least one of these conditions is not met, it is better to use the frame fastening method. You cannot glue plasterboard to the ceiling: in this case, lathing must be used. One of the special advantages of this type of installation is the space saving. It is very convenient in small spaces.

Installation of drywall is the process of covering surfaces with plasterboard sheets. This is the most economical and quick way hide existing unevenness in the base. Wall decoration using this material is preliminary work before applying plaster, paint or wallpapering walls. In addition to leveling, installing drywall allows you to insulate and soundproof the room.

List of required tools

To install drywall yourself, you will need a number of special tools, which are best prepared in advance. Each stage of work has its own tools to make the work process as convenient as possible.

Marking tools:

• Level, laser level;
• Plumb;
• Roulette;
• Pencil;
• Dying lace.

When making a frame you will need:

• Hammer;
• Hammer;
• Bulgarian;
• Screwdriver;
• Pliers;
• Metal scissors.

When working with plasterboard sheets, you should use the following tools:

• Hacksaw;
• Rail of the required length;
• Sharp knife;
• Plane.

To properly seal screw holes, sheet joints and corners, you should prepare the following tools:

• Spatulas;
• Container in which mixtures will be mixed;
• Rollers and brushes for priming;
• Grater with mesh or sandpaper.

Of course, when working, you can not use all of the above tools or replace them with alternative accessories.

Drywall mounting options

Modern technology There are two ways to install drywall:

• Frameless option(special adhesive mixtures based on cement or gypsum);
• Frame option (use a frame made of metal profiles or wooden beams).

The use of any method should ensure the fulfillment of the main task - even, reliable and durable fastening of drywall sheets located in the same plane.

Each of the options is reliable and durable, the main thing is to carry out the installation efficiently.

We fasten without a frame

To use the frameless method for installation, the wall covering should not consist of peeling materials, be dry, dust-free and unpainted with enamel or oil paint. When using cement-polymer or gypsum glue, the base must be strong, primed and fairly level (only small differences are allowed). It is impossible to lay thermal insulation under drywall constructed in this way, so you have to use a foam insulation cycle. The advantages of the frameless method are: excellent sound insulation from structural noise, a minimal set of tools used, a short distance from the front surface to the base.

Installation of drywall using a frameless method using evenly applied adhesive

Frame method - high quality, reliable

This method involves installing sheets on a ready-made frame assembled from metal profiles or wooden beams. The frame method is suitable for carrying out more complex repair work, for example, when creating an arch or a multi-level complex ceiling structure. For such work, this type of installation is considered the most reliable.

To manufacture a metal frame, a galvanized steel profile is used, which has a non-through notch for rigidity and through holes intended for attaching it to the surface. It should be noted that when installed using this method, poor sound insulation is achieved, requiring the use of additional measures to ensure it. The disadvantages include a fairly large set of tools needed to complete the work. The metal profile frame is durable and moisture resistant, and is distinguished by the standardization of the elements used. The advantage of this frame is its use on surfaces with large unevenness and the existing possibility of laying thermal insulation.

A frame made of metal profiles makes it possible to lay communications and a layer of insulation under the plasterboard

To make a wooden frame, dry, even, planed timber is used. Undoubtedly, this type of frame is distinguished by its environmentally friendly material, has good sound insulation and allows for additional thermal insulation. After assembling the wooden frame, it should be treated with a special impregnation that protects the material from moisture, mold, rot, and bugs.

Marking the surface for mounting the frame

To ensure quality repair work, the surface must be marked.

The marking of the walls is carried out in the following sequence. It is necessary to measure a distance of 5-6 cm from the corner and draw a vertical line on the adjacent wall. Similarly, you need to draw a line on opposite wall and using a long strip, connect these lines on the ceiling and floor. Next, vertical lines should be marked from the corner of the wall at a distance of 60 cm and marks should be made on them in a checkerboard pattern every 50 cm - these will be the place for mounting the mounting suspension.

Marking walls for a frame made of metal profiles

When installing drywall on the ceiling, the first thing to note is the horizontal level of the room. To do this, you can use a laser level or a hydraulic level. In all internal and external corners Small marks are placed in the room, then the distance from these marks to the ceiling is measured in each corner and a mark is made with the value of the resulting distance. This manipulation is needed to determine the lowest point of the ceiling from which to push off when lowering it.

It is important! At frame installation the ceiling is minimally lowered by 4 cm from its lowest point.

The found height is marked in each corner, and the resulting marks are connected using a strip with horizontal lines. Next, the profile is installed around the perimeter. Marks are placed on the surface of the ceiling along the wall at intervals of 40 cm. Marks are placed on the opposite side in the same way, then the resulting points are connected by parallel lines. Marks are placed on each line at intervals of 50 cm in a checkerboard pattern, identifying the mounting locations for the suspension.

Wiring under drywall

After setting all the profiles, you should begin to carry out communications: electrical wiring, network, telephone and television cables.

Something to remember! Rules for installing electrical equipment require placing power wires located behind plasterboard sheathing in a corrugated pipe that does not support combustion. This can be a metal hose or a plastic corrugation marked NG (non-flammable).

Wires with safe voltage do not need corrugation, but it can protect the wiring from damage by the sharp edges of the metal frame.

At this stage, you should consider the number of required consumption points, decide on their location and the passage of wires.

It is important to know! The wire must run vertically from the outlet or switch, and the horizontal sections of its passage must be located at the same height as the distribution boxes.

It is advisable to graphically depict how the wire will pass in order to avoid problems when laying it in the future.

Marking the wire passage

The wires are fixed to the wall; for ease of connecting sockets, the length of the wires should be left with a small margin from the surface.

How to cut correctly

To cut a sheet of drywall correctly and efficiently, you will need the following tools: a long strip, a pencil, a tape measure, a sharp knife.

Execute this work very simple, just follow the steps:

Any uneven ends or protruding paper should be sanded using a plane designed for drywall, a wood file or a float with sandpaper. The end result is part of a sheet of drywall required size with neat, smooth edges.

Refinishing the ends of drywall - sanding the cut with a plane

Chamfering drywall

When joining sheets with non-manufactured edges, chamfer should be chamfered at an angle of 45 degrees. First, the paper is cut parallel to the cut with a distance of 1 cm from the edge, and then the chamfer is removed with a knife.

How to make a cutout

There are two types of cuts: at the edge and in the middle of the sheet.

To make a cut from the edge, you need to mark and cut the paper on one side with a knife, then use a jigsaw or hacksaw to make two cuts in the direction from the edge. The plasterboard sheet should be broken and cut with reverse side paper.

A cut on a sheet of drywall is made with a sharp knife along a pre-drawn line

To cut a hole in the middle of a sheet, you should saw through three sides and then break it. Or immediately cut out the hole completely.

Installation of plasterboard sheets on profiles

After installing the frame and carrying out preparatory work You should immediately begin installing drywall. There is one mounting method for walls and ceilings. It is necessary to attach the sheet closely to the finished frame so that one edge of the sheet is located flush against the wall. Plasterboard sheets are attached to the profiles using self-tapping screws.

When performing work, it is necessary to deepen the screw to such a distance that the top does not protrude, but is not too deep. It should be noted that when the top cardboard layer breaks, the fastening site relaxes. The distance between the screws should be 20-25 cm.

If the height of the ceilings is greater than the dimensions of the plasterboard sheet, then it is necessary to secure an intermediate profile. All parts of the sheet must be secured, otherwise the joint will constantly crack. In this situation, subsequent panels must be launched at intervals, in a checkerboard pattern - whole sheet from below, trimming from above and vice versa. Using this method, the reliability of the entire structure is achieved.

Treatment of seams and recesses from self-tapping screws

After completing the installation of the plasterboard sheets, the joints of the sheets should be processed and the recesses from the screws should be filled with putty. For joints, a gypsum mixture is used, which, when dried, forms a very durable material. Chamfered edges must be primed.

A reinforcing mesh 80-100 mm wide is glued to all joints with the factory edge. In a situation where one or both edges of the sheet are chamfered, the mesh should be cut lengthwise and not allowed to go out of plane. If in this case you use a reinforcing mesh of normal width, you will have to putty the entire surface with a layer 1-2 mm larger.

Attention! The reinforcing mesh should always be located in the middle of the putty.

About 60% of the recess volume is filled with the first layer of putty, then the mesh must be immersed in the putty and smoothed. At the end, the remaining volume of the recess is filled.

The recesses from the self-tapping screws also need to be filled with putty; to do this, you need to run a spatula into different directions to fill the hole with putty. As it dries, it shrinks a little, which is normal. The final treatment of the recesses is carried out with finishing putty.

Putty, primer before finishing

It is advisable to putty the surface of the drywall under the wallpaper with finishing putty, which will ensure its uniform color. The strength of their adhesion will not change during this work. Before wallpapering the walls, the putty must be primed.

Finishing is the final stage of drywall installation

You can stick tiles onto drywall directly onto the cardboard surface, only before doing this you need to prime it.

Do-it-yourself drywall installation - video instructions

Having become familiar with step-by-step implementation work, you can safely install drywall yourself. This process- do-it-yourself drywall installation video instructions describe visually, allowing you to understand all the nuances. This article discusses the basics of drywall installation technology, which allows you to perform everything efficiently renovation work.

To answer questions about how to install drywall, the video lesson provides detailed answers and practical recommendations.

strmnt.com

How to screw drywall?

• 02-12-2013
• 2298 Views
• 17 Rating

• 1. Screwdriver or drill
• 2. Bits for a screwdriver
• 3. Self-tapping screws for drywall
  • A detailed guide to screwing drywall

There is actually nothing difficult about the technique of screwing drywall! But there are still some nuances that everyone who is going to cover something with plasterboard should know. After reading the information below, you will understand how to sheathe walls and ceilings with plasterboard, and you will begin to understand bits and screws. So, to screw drywall we need:

Tool for working with drywall.

To tighten the screws you will need a screwdriver or drill. It is better, of course, to use a screwdriver, since it is specifically designed for such work. It will be simply inconvenient to work with a drill. Accordingly, before work you need to charge the screwdriver battery well, and if possible, also purchase a spare battery.

During intensive work the battery will be discharged and in this case a spare one will be very useful. Almost everyone who is engaged in covering rooms with plasterboard, filing ceilings, and the like, purchases a spare battery, and sometimes two. In cases where two spare ones are not enough, it is better to purchase a screwdriver that will work from the mains. Screwing in self-tapping screws with a cordless screwdriver is easier and more convenient, no one argues, but new batteries are quite expensive. And therefore, sometimes it will be more profitable to purchase a screwdriver that works directly from electrical network. In general, your choice directly depends on the amount of work expected.

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Types of bits for a screwdriver.

Also for work you need attachments for the screwdriver - “bits”. They are metal attachments that allow you to twist various bolts, screws and screws. It is worth selecting bits for the type of screws that you plan to screw in with them. We'll talk about selecting the screws themselves a little later. The bit should fit tightly in the head of the screw: the better it fits in the head, the easier it will be to screw it in.

Install the attachment into the jaws of the screwdriver chuck one at a time simple principle: when the chuck is rotated counterclockwise, the jaws unclench, and when scrolled clockwise, the jaws in the chuck are compressed. Therefore, to replace the bit, you need to open the jaws by turning the chuck counterclockwise, remove the old bit, insert a new one and then screw the chuck in the opposite direction.

The bits, by the way, are consumables, since over time the “petals lick off” and when tightened, the nozzle slips inside the screw head. Therefore, for work it is worth purchasing several good-quality bits at once. Especially if you need to twist drywall not for 30-40 minutes, but for several hours without breaks.

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They need to be selected depending on what material the drywall frame is made of. After all, a self-tapping screw for wood has a wide thread pitch, while a self-tapping screw for metal, on the contrary, has a short pitch - for what? The answer is simple: when screwing into metal, a short thread pitch is needed so that the self-tapping screw holds the metal well with its petals. A rare thread pitch will not allow the self-tapping screw to sit firmly in the metal workpiece.

And since wood is a more fragile and less dense material than metal, in order for the self-tapping screw to hold well in it, a rare thread pitch is needed.

Types of self-tapping screws for profiles.

A small step will spoil the cut threads in the wood, and the screw will not hold well. This means that if your frame is made of wood, then you need wood screws, those with a longer thread pitch. And if the frame, for example, is made of metal profiles, then you need to purchase metal screws.

Their length must be selected based on what layer of drywall you are going to screw on. For example, if you have one layer of drywall, the thickness of one sheet is 12 mm, then the length of the screw should be 20-24 mm. If you are going to screw two layers, then self-tapping screws approximately 32-35 mm long will do. Particularly long screws are not useful in this case; when covering with plasterboard, only self-tapping screws of the optimal length are required, which corresponds to the thickness of the layers.

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1. First of all, you need to make sure that all your tools are in good condition and ready for the intended job. You need to check the functionality of the screwdriver, make sure there are a sufficient number of bits and screws. And by the way, you yourself also need to take on work only in a vigorous, healthy state. If you feel tired or drowsy, then you should not start work.
2. When screwing, you should feel strong support. The quality of work, as well as the level of load on your muscles, depends on how well you stand on your own two feet. If you stand firmly and are in a position that is comfortable for you, then screwing in the screws will be easier and you will spend less effort on it. If, for example, you need to climb a stepladder to screw in a self-tapping screw at a height, then on the steps of the stepladder you should stand on your legs bent at the knees, this will give more stability.

If you are screwing a sheet of drywall to a wall, then for greater effort and stability it is recommended to slightly bend your knees and move one leg back a little for better support. As a result, you will get a kind of boxing stand that will allow you to screw drywall to the wall with less effort.

http://youtu.be/z6vHRu0pm1Y

In the case of screwing drywall to the ceiling, an assistant is needed who would be able to press the sheet of drywall to the ceiling and hold it in this position until the entire sheet is screwed correctly. When screwing screws into the ceiling, we will need another stand; the deflection should no longer be in the knees, but in the back, specifically in the lumbar region.

You should bend slightly backward (pelvic area slightly forward, shoulder girdle slightly back), this will allow you to apply more pressure on the screwdriver when screwing. In this case, it is advisable, as in the previous case, to move one leg back a little. These racks will allow you to do drywall with some convenience and with less of your energy.

1. You need to start screwing in the screw at the maximum speed of the screwdriver and maintain this speed until the screw goes halfway, then you need to gradually reduce the speed and finally reduce it to minimum values. This is necessary in order to correctly and accurately press the drywall to the frame.
2. To properly press drywall, certain standards must be met. The head of the screwed screw should not stick out, in correct form it should be recessed 1 mm into the drywall. If you don't press the drywall down properly, it simply won't stick properly. If you deepen the screw more than 1 mm, the cardboard will tear and will practically not hold on. Therefore, you should twist the drywall with extreme care.
3. When sheathing with plasterboard in several layers, it is necessary to reduce the interval between screws as new layers are applied. If on the first layer they are screwed in every 70 cm, then on the second layer they need to be screwed in every 40 cm.

http://youtu.be/LDSuE-ikX-o

At the junction of sheets of drywall, it is necessary to shift the places where the screws are screwed, that is, it is necessary that they are not screwed in pairs on the same line (not adjacent), but arranged in a checkerboard pattern.

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Installing drywall on walls yourself

When performed independently construction work, more and more people today prefer to use innovative materials and technologies.

This circumstance is associated with completely new possibilities that can be obtained as a result of the use of products of this kind. Moreover modern materials They are also distinguished by their multifunctionality, that is, the ability to simultaneously solve several problems.

So, for example, using permanent formwork made of foam plastic allows you to erect structures in a short time and at the same time obtain stunning consumer characteristics. The active introduction of siding helps to carry out finishing work at a high level quality level, and at the same time improve the operational criteria of the structure. Plastic pipelines are quick to install and minimum requirements when servicing.

A separate niche in the category finishing materials It also takes up drywall. A material with which you can carry out finishing work in the shortest possible time, make light partitions, and organize additional heat and sound insulation of the room. Installing drywall on walls, although a complex process, can still be done by yourself.

Installing drywall on walls

Of course, the implementation of these measures requires high skill, professionalism and experience in carrying out similar work from the work manufacturer, but if certain recommendations are followed, installing drywall on the walls can be done independently.

Although in some cases it is more expedient to use a frameless method of installing gypsum boards, the most common method of installing drywall on walls is to fix the panels onto a pre-mounted supporting frame. This circumstance is caused by the many advantages of the frame installation method:

Possibility of leveling walls with varying degrees of surface differences;

Speed ​​of work completion and elimination of wet operations;

Possibility of laying engineering systems and additional insulating materials in the free cavity of the supporting frame;

Irreproachable appearance plasterboard walls and an excellent basis for performing finishing operations of any type (wallpapering, laying tiles, painting).

However, we should not forget about the shortcomings of this method of wall decoration. Firstly, this is low maintainability, and secondly, a reduction in the useful volume of the room due to the need to construct a load-bearing frame. But in most cases, such shortcomings are neglected and preference is still given to the presented finishing method. In view of this, we consider it advisable to consider the method of installing drywall on walls with your own hands using the frame method.

Preparing to install drywall on walls

At this stage, it will be necessary to perform a number of works, namely: prepare all the necessary materials and tools, provide access to the structures being finished, and prepare the walls themselves. Let us consider in more detail each of the listed stages:

Procurement of materials consists of purchasing a given number of products to complete installation work. At the same time, installing plasterboard on walls involves purchasing the plasterboard itself, metal profiles or wooden slats for constructing a frame, fastening elements (dowels, self-tapping screws). In this case, it is necessary to take into account some features in order to purchase the material in the most optimal quantity.

So, as for plasterboard, it is most often sold in sheets with dimensions of 1200x2500mm (width x length). Therefore, perform the calculation required drywall preferably taking into account it overall dimensions. In addition, when purchasing gypsum plasterboard, it is advisable to take into account the intended location of its installation and order the material with the appropriate technical characteristics(standard, moisture-resistant, fire-resistant, etc.). When plasterboard is intended to be used as false panels for the manufacture of a fireplace, it is recommended to additionally purchase thermal insulation materials.

If we talk about materials for constructing the frame, then guides and rack profiles are most often used for these purposes. In addition, you may need all kinds of connectors, crosses, mounting hangers, and metal screws.

Preparing the working tool is also very important point at self-installation drywall. Typically, the following devices are used for these purposes:

1. Hammer;

2. Hammer;

3. Assembly knife;

4. Metal scissors;

5. A screwdriver or electric drill with a bit for self-tapping screws.

Preparation of base wall surfaces includes ensuring free access to the object, removing all easily peelable objects from the surface, and repairing deformed bases if necessary.

Marking the room

Before leveling the walls with plasterboard, mark the installation sites for finishing materials. Moreover, this operation must be approached with maximum responsibility in order to facilitate the process of installing drywall and minimize the consumption of materials.

Perform the markings in the following sequence:

Having stepped back from the plane of the base wall to a distance sufficient for laying insulation and communications, screws are drilled into the ceiling at the extreme points (corners) of the wall. Then plumb lines are tied to them and counter fasteners are installed (to the floor) at the points of contact with the floor. Then, by pulling a common cord between the ceiling screws, and a similar cord between the floor screws, base lines are marked, which will indicate the installation locations of the supporting frame profiles. All remaining walls of the room are marked in the same way. After all the marking lines have been drawn, the screws and tapping cords are removed and proceed to the next stage.

In order for the installation of drywall on walls to occur with maximum efficiency, the following recommendations must be followed when performing marking operations:

Be sure to use a building level or plumb line;

Retreat such a distance from the wall surface so as to minimally occupy the free space of the room, but at the same time freely install the gypsum board;

Markings can be done using a pencil or using special dyes.

Next, markings are made on the walls, the purpose of which is to indicate the installation locations of the rack profiles. Therefore, it must be applied in vertical lines in increments of 0.4 or 0.6 meters (so that the ends of adjacent sheets lie on the same profile).

Construction of a supporting frame for installing drywall

Along pre-marked marking lines, profile guides are attached to the surface of the floor and ceiling. For this purpose, they usually use a puncher to make appropriate recesses in the ceiling and floor surfaces and install dowels in them. And the profiles are screwed to them using screws.

It is important to understand here that the reliability of the entire structure depends on the correctness of this procedure, therefore the spacing of the fastening elements for fixing the guide profiles is taken in the range from 0.4 to 0.6 meters (depending on the expected load on the plasterboard walls) and the elements are properly fixed .

At the next stage, the profile guides are attached to the walls in the same way, matching them between the upper and lower profile systems. That is, the work must be performed in such a way that all profile guides are located in a single plane.

At the next stage, using vertical markings on the walls, installation hangers are installed, which will subsequently hold the rack profiles, creating additional rigidity for the entire structure. They are also fixed using dowels, but it is advisable to adhere to the following recommendations:

1. Place hangers on each line in increments of no more than 60cm;

2. On adjacent rows, make an offset when arranging fasteners to increase the future rigidity of the base of the frame.

3. When constructing a plasterboard arch, use additional elements perforation.

After this, the rack profiles are mounted to the frame. To do this, they are inserted into the cavities of the upper and lower guide profiles and screwed at the joints using self-tapping screws not only to the profiles, but also to direct hangers, and the ears protruding outward are bent inside the frame.

When performing this operation, it may be necessary to extend or cut off the rack profiles, since their length must be equal to the height of the walls.

Thus, building up elements can be done using special connectors and self-tapping screws, while cutting off excess can be done using ordinary metal scissors.

All surfaces to be finished should be equipped in a similar way. In addition, it should be noted that to enhance rigidity and improve the fastening of drywall, it is recommended to install transverse profiles, similarly fixing them to vertical elements using fasteners.

Final installation of drywall on the walls

Before leveling the walls with plasterboard, it is advisable to resolve the issue of insulating the room and its sound insulation. This must be done before the walls are covered with plasterboard. Such materials can be glass wool, isover, cork, foam, which are placed in the empty cavities of the supporting frame. It is also recommended to lay all engineering systems and communications at the previous stage.

Drywall should be fastened to the frame using metal screws, observing an installation step of 30-40 cm. At the same time, the sheets should be fixed to all rigid elements of the supporting frame.

Installation of drywall on walls must take into account certain requirements, we list the main ones:

• The panels must be fastened in a checkerboard pattern (a whole sheet at the bottom, a section at the top - a section at the bottom, a whole sheet at the top);

• All sheets must be securely fixed around the perimeter and in the center; free sagging of the material is not allowed (the ends of the panels must be laid on the base of the profile;

• When securing the sheet with self-tapping screws, it is necessary to make a minimum indentation from the ends of the drywall: for a factory joint 10mm, for a cut joint 15mm;
• Cut the material using a mounting knife or a special cutter.

After all surfaces are covered with plasterboard, we proceed to implementation. finishing works(sanding, painting, pasting, etc.).

How to putty drywall: let's figure it out together

How to paint walls correctly

DIY decorative plaster

If you liked the material, I will be grateful if you recommend it to friends or leave a useful comment.

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How to make an interior partition from plasterboard with your own hands

After building a private house, cottage or in an old apartment, you have to erect additional interior partitions from plasterboard to delimit large spaces, or to allocate a part, for example, for a dressing room or your own separate room.

To build additional (false) walls, I use plasterboard sheets and corresponding profile guides.

Such material is easy to work with, but at the same time, installing partitions will require adherence to technology, and the erected wall will last a long time. The advantage is the simplicity of finishing work on drywall, the surface comes out smooth and beautiful.

Necessary materials for work

First of all, let's decide what materials you need to purchase. Installation of interior partitions made of plasterboard requires the construction of a frame that will ensure reliability and stability. To do this, you will have to install a structure made of special metal profiles. In addition, additional elements will be needed for proper installation of the wall.

To work with plasterboard sheets, two types of profiles are used:

• D-profile (smaller) - this type of guides is used to form a plane where sheets will be attached in the future.
• W-profile (larger) - necessary for forming the frame of the future partition.

The choice of profile depends on the thickness of the structure being built, since certain types are also used here. Each variety has its own designation.

The support type is designated - C, and is available with a ribbed surface - this gives the profile more rigidity. The profile that performs the guiding function is U. Typically, such elements are U-shaped.

Profile sizes for plasterboard sheets:

• CD – dimensions 60x27 millimeters, used as the main load-bearing element of the frame structure.
• UD – dimensions 28x27 millimeters, used as a guide element for the above (CD).
• CW – dimensions: 50x50, 50x75, 50x100 millimeters, intended for racks when forming a frame.
• UW, manufactured in the following sizes: 50x40, 75x40, 100x40 millimeters, used as a guide for CW.
• UA is an analogue of CW, with thicker metal walls.

To build a simple partition, you will need CW and UW profiles. To form complex walls in which communications will be laid, CD and UD are used - guides are installed in parallel, at the required distance.

To connect the structure, a direct suspension is used (the second name is a universal connector). For fastening, self-tapping screws with a drill-shaped tip are used. The frame is attached to the wall using dowels.

It is advisable to use plasterboard sheets no thinner than 12.5 millimeters for the partition. In addition, they should have a wide chamfer on both sides. To build additional false walls in the bathroom or kitchen, it is recommended to use special moisture-resistant sheets - they differ from others in color: moisture-resistant - with a green tint, simple sheets plasterboards are made in neutral gray color.

As a result, for the construction of the partition, the following materials will be required:

• plasterboard sheets.
• metal profiles.
• fasteners.
• special sealing tape.
• wooden beam (beam) - to strengthen the opening (arch).
• mineral wool - for sound insulation.

Required Tools

To install the partition you will need the following tools:

• Construction level - no more than 120 centimeters long.
• Measuring tool - use a construction tape if the length of its blade is enough to measure the partition.
• Rope or thick fishing line - to level the wall.
• A drill (in this case, it is necessary with reverse), or a screwdriver.
• A hammer drill or special drills for concrete, as you will need to make holes in the wall.
• Metal scissors – for cutting profiles. They must be sharp, otherwise there is a risk of deforming the guides.
• A stationery knife with a thick blade.
• Special grater for plasterboard sheets.

Frame formation

After the tool is prepared and the materials are purchased, we proceed to the manufacture of the partition. We pre-prepare the walls and floor: remove the old finish, clean out cracks and potholes if they are found.

Following the step-by-step instructions, we will form a new partition using CW and UW profiles:

1. To begin with, you will need to make appropriate markings on the flooring. It is advisable that the floor be leveled at 0. Even angles between floors and walls are very rare and this must be taken into account. It is advisable to average this value to avoid possible curvature.
2. In the case where, in addition to erecting a partition, the walls are sheathed with plasterboard sheets, first install a frame with the most right angles. And only after this, they begin to install the partition.
3. When marking, much attention is paid to the first line along which it will be installed. new wall. It is necessary to provide finishing. Once we have decided on the first line, we transfer it to the ceiling and walls. To do this, use a plumb line. You can simplify this task by using a laser level.
4. Guides that are mounted to walls, floors and ceilings must be laid with sealing tape and secured with dowels.
5. Along the edges of the partition, CW guides are mounted. This profile is also used for doorways or place a window if necessary.
6. After the guides are secured, proceed with the installation of the CW racks. This will require precise calculations: the first element is installed exactly 55 centimeters from the wall, and the subsequent ones - 60 centimeters from each other (the distance from the middle of the profile is measured). The rack and guide profiles are fastened with self-tapping screws.

Important: When installing a frame device, it should be taken into account that plasterboard sheets will be laid on top, and accordingly the partition will increase in size. The guides are erected with the front side facing the covering of the walls, floor and ceiling. Separate racks are attached to the UW using self-tapping screws.

Once the frame is ready, we proceed to installing plasterboard sheets.

Doorway in the partition

The places where the supporting profiles for the doorway or window will be located need to be strengthened. For this, you can use a wooden beam. It is desirable that the prepared timber matches the width of the partition being built (see first photo).

Also, it can be noted that when using a reinforced profile with the designation AU, you can dispense with wooden blocks, however, this type will cost you significantly more.

Fastening plasterboard sheets

To securely fasten plasterboard sheets to metal profile, screws of 3.5x35 millimeters are used. It is worth noting that the screws are screwed in every 25 centimeters. The sheets are attached at the edges and only after that can the middle of the plasterboard sheet be attached.

Important: The heads of the screws used should go deeper into the material, this will simplify the preparation for the final wallpaper design, decorative plaster and etc.

Fasten the sheets at a distance of 15 centimeters from the floor - this is necessary to give strength to the partition.

Once the first sheet is securely fastened, you will need to measure the remaining distance to the ceiling and cut out the required remainder. After this, make the fasteners. Subsequent plasterboard sheets are installed in a checkerboard pattern: first the sheet is attached to the ceiling side, then the missing part is attached from below. Next, it’s the other way around. Thus, you will get one side of the future partition. For the reverse side, repeat the procedure in reverse order.

Sound insulation installation

For effective sound insulation, a double frame is created, independent from each other, into which noise insulation material is placed on both sides of the drywall. This increases the cost of work.

Soundproofing of newly constructed interior partitions made of plasterboard can be done using the following types of material:

• Acoustic plasterboard - the panels are perforated, the presence of holes makes it possible to more effectively absorb noise. Used for internal and external cladding of ceilings and walls. Compatible with many types of finishes.
• Soundproofing membranes are made of polymer fabric with applied felt fibers. The thickness of 2.5-12 mm makes it possible to use in thin partitions.
• Sound-absorbing boards - the basis is fiberglass. The advantages include excellent sound insulation, do not rot, do not absorb moisture, and do not burn well. One minus is the high price.
• Acoustic mats are panels made from stone wool. Environmentally friendly, non-flammable material.
• Glass wool is an attractively priced material, but it requires compliance with safety precautions during work: the use of personal protective equipment.


How to cut drywall at home

When leveling wall fences using gypsum plasterboard, the question often arises - how to properly install drywall on the wall? The emergence of such a question is quite natural, because today there are several technologies for covering walls with gypsum board. And each of them has its own secrets!

In addition, so-called false walls can be made from plasterboard - and in this case, the installation technology will be seriously different from the one we use when covering a main wall. In general, there are quite enough tricks and nuances in this process!

Frameless installation method

Preparing walls for plasterboarding

One of the simplest, and at the same time least expensive ways to level walls in a room using plasterboard is the frameless method. The main advantage of this technology is that there is no need to violate the integrity of the wall surface by drilling holes in it for attaching sheathing elements.

In addition, the price of materials for frameless installation is on average lower than the cost of the profile and fasteners for a drywall frame.

Note!
The more irregularities on the wall, the large quantity Drywall adhesive must be used; accordingly, the less savings will be.

Installation of gypsum board with glue is carried out according to the following algorithm:

• At the first stage, we prepare the surface for gluing drywall, removing the remnants of the old finish and dismantling all parts attached to the wall.
• After the wall is cleaned, we check its flatness using a level or a fairly long rule. If large irregularities are found, they can be trimmed off with a chisel or hammer drill.
• Before installing drywall, we treat the wall with a primer that ensures high-quality adhesion of the glue to the leveled surface. The choice of primer depends on the wall material.

Gluing gypsum boards

When the primer has polymerized, you can begin gluing the gypsum board.

• For gluing we use putty for drywall on gypsum base(for relatively smooth walls) or glue for gypsum boards (for walls with unevenness up to 40-50 mm).
• We apply the adhesive composition to the back of the panel along the perimeter, as well as in several vertical stripes along the very surface of the gypsum board. If Perflix type glue is used, then we lay it small slides at a distance of 23-30 cm from each other.
• After applying the glue, apply the plasterboard to the surface and level it flat using a rubber mallet.

Advice!
To polymerize the glue or dry the putty properly, access to air is required. To ensure this, leave a gap of about 8-10 mm in the lower part of the wall, placing wooden wedges or trimmings of facing slabs under the gypsum board.

• By gluing several panels and without waiting for the glue to dry completely, we control the quality of the resulting surface.
  If necessary, the plane can be trimmed by lightly pressing in the right places with an open palm.

We install gypsum board using a frameless method, starting from the corner of the room and moving along the perimeter. After the entire room is covered, all that remains is to seal the seams and treat the surface with putty. We will tell you how to do this separately.

Frame method

Assembling metal sheathing

The more common technology is plasterboard cladding using a metal frame. This technology is also quite simple (albeit more expensive), and it allows you to hide almost any irregularities.

In addition, wiring and communications can be laid behind the frame sheathing, which is also an undoubted argument in its favor.

For the frame can be used as wooden beams, and special profiles made of galvanized iron. Despite the fact that a wooden frame is more economical, craftsmen still prefer metal sheathing as it is more convenient to use, reliable and durable.

Installation of drywall on the frame is carried out as follows:

• On the wall that has been cleared of finishing, we apply markings along which we will attach all the frame elements. To apply markings, it is convenient to use a laser level mounted on a tripod.
• We attach starting profiles in the upper and lower parts of the room parallel to the plane being sheathed. To fasten the profile, we use dowels with a metal sleeve, driving them into pre-drilled holes in the floor and ceiling.
• We attach brackets to the wall itself according to the markings. Most often, plate hangers are used as brackets (pictured).

• We attach vertical rack profiles to the brackets using self-tapping screws. We place the ends of the vertical elements at the top and bottom into the starting profile and fix them with self-tapping screws or rivets.

Note!
Rack profiles must be installed strictly vertically. Permissible deviations when installing drywall are no more than 15 mm for the entire height of the room, and for improved finishing - no more than 1 mm per 1 mm of room height.

• For improvement mechanical characteristics frame, vertical posts can be connected with horizontal profiles.

Frame covering

When the frame is ready, you can begin covering it with gypsum board sheets. Before installing drywall, it must be cut to the required dimensions.

To trim drywall, you can use a special cutter, jigsaw or file, but most often a paint knife with a replaceable blade is used.

• We apply the sheet cut to size to the frame, and then fasten it with self-tapping screws.
• You need to tighten the screws so that the cap is flush with the cardboard layer, without protruding above it, but also without falling into the gypsum core. To do this, they often use a special limiter attachment on a screwdriver.

Related articles:

GKL partition

In addition to leveling existing walls, plasterboard can be used to build interior partitions.

Below we will tell you how to install a plasterboard wall:

• Before starting work, we prepare all communications that must pass inside the partition. First of all, this is, of course, the wiring, but you can also hide pipes under the drywall, and if the partition has a significant width, then the hood ducts.
• We begin the installation of a false wall by assembling the frame. At the first stage, we attach the starting profile along the perimeter of the room, forming the outline of our partition.

Note!
If a doorway is planned, then we do not install a starting profile at its location on the floor!

• After the perimeter is secured, we install rack profiles. As in the case of wall sheathing, we insert the upper and lower parts of the racks into the starting profiles and fasten them with self-tapping screws.
• We pay special attention to the racks on the sides of the doorway. To ensure sufficient rigidity, we insert wooden inserts into them, additionally fixing the wood to the floor using metal brackets.
• We install a horizontal lintel at the top of the doorway. We also attach horizontal profiles to strengthen the structure.
• We lay communications inside the finished partition frame, after which we cover one side with plasterboard.
• We place insulation in the partition, after which we sheathe the other side.

The final stage of assembling an interior plasterboard wall is covering the door slopes.

Study in more detail all the nuances of the construction and cladding process plasterboard structures you can by watching the video lessons posted in this and other articles on our website.