Installing a plastic window with your own hands: let's look at installing a plastic window step by step. Self-installation of a plastic window - detailed instructions Attaching PVC windows to anchors

Helpful information

When the installation of a plastic window is carried out by specialists, it seems that there are no difficulties, everything happens quickly and accurately. The assemblers work like a perfectly tuned watch mechanism, where every part fits exactly into the right place. However, not everything is so simple and you need to know exactly what and how to fix it so that the window does not cause problems. It is important to select fasteners for correct installation, as well as direct installation of a specific structure.

Basic mounting elements

The variety of fastener elements can become a stumbling point for an ignorant person, but installers know exactly what parts may be needed during installation. The TBM-Market store offers a wide selection of fasteners for windows, because installation fasteners, if installed correctly, will significantly increase the service life of the structure.

Types of fastening elements:

• dowels or screws for concrete;
• frame anchors different types(anchor bolts);
• dowels and anchor plates;
• self-tapping screws of different diameters, including nipples for them;
• various screws and so on.

The installers install the window and select the necessary fastening that suits the type of walls in your apartment. A good quality fastener, not intended for a specific structural material, will give a poor result, and the period of reliable operation will be shorter.

1. Through installation of plastic windows:

• Fastenings for concrete walls (pins)

Most installers prefer to use concrete dowels or screws (turbo screws), since the dowel is installed quickly, holds the weight of the glass unit reliably, and is firmly fixed in the material. When working, a hole is pre-drilled into which a screw with a threaded notch is screwed in without a dowel, which ensures the strength of the fastener.

Pins have standard sizes for window openings - 7.5 by 152 (132), if it is necessary to replace the glass with light-protective, fire-resistant, etc., the structure is easy to dismantle.

Disadvantage of fastening: dowels cannot be used when installing plastic windows in non-uniform walls that have a layer of insulation.

• Frame anchors

The standard anchor has three components: a screw, a bushing and a conical nut; it requires drilling a hole for installation in the profile and in the wall. The bushing is at the same time a helping element for screwing in the screw, an additional locking link that ensures fixation of the screw in the hole. The countersunk head of the anchor (dowel) can be recessed into the hole or covered with a special cover.

Standard anchors for concrete (solid brick) have a length of at least 60 mm, for porous blocks or slotted bricks - at least 80 mm.

Dismantling a plastic window with anchors is more problematic than with screws, so you need to be especially careful during installation. The disadvantage of anchor dowels is that they cannot be used for multi-layer walls, especially when there is an insulating layer.

Non-through installation

This type of fastening assumes that the integrity of the frame structure will not be compromised (holes are not drilled). For panel-type houses with walls of a multilayer structure, anchor plates attached to the window opening and polyurethane foam are used for glazing loggias. The plate is attached at the end to the frame using self-tapping screws, and it is secured to the wall with dowels (length no more than 40mm).

If you are planning to replace or install new windows, you will need to learn the installation process. It all depends on how you will install the windows: either with your own hands or by hiring a third-party company. It takes approximately 4 hours to dismantle and install the structure if you do not have experience in this matter. For a company employee who does this often, such work will take no more than an hour. But installing tilt-and-turn windows yourself requires some construction skills.

Window system components

Before you begin installation, you need to understand the nuances and details. First, you should find out all the names of parts and materials. The main load-bearing part is the frame. In the version of plastic windows, its production is carried out from a plastic profile, which can be single-chamber, double-chamber, etc.

A special insert is placed in the center of the structure to ensure rigidity. In plastic systems, this insert is made of plastic; in metal-plastic systems, metal is used.

In addition, the profile is divided into classes: premium, standard and economy. All profiles manufactured at the plant are subject to certain standards. If you want to make a choice in favor of good tilt-and-turn windows, take the standard class. In terms of color, white windows are most often found, but other colors can be used: wood, brown. Products made from colored profiles will be more expensive than white ones.

Components of a plastic window

The main element of a window unit is the frame

The design of a plastic window includes the following parts:

• frame – the main structural part;
• if you have big window, most often it is separated by a vertical partition, there may be several of them - it all depends on the choice of design;
• the part that is motionless is called blind, and the part that opens is called the sash;
• double glazed windows can be with different properties, for example, tinted, energy-saving, reinforced, using inert gas. In addition, they are single-layer, two-layer, three-layer or multi-layer - the choice is great;
• In order for the glass to hold securely, they are pressed with a bead, which is a thin plastic strip. For tightness, a rubber seal is used, most often black;
• fittings are always used - this is a special set of tilt-and-turn mechanisms that help open and close the doors and provide various functionality;
• in addition, seals are needed to ensure the tightness of the entire structure;
• Ventilated holes for drainage are made on the inside of the frame, which are covered with caps. Moisture generated by differences temperature regime on the street and inside the room, gets out through them;
• another part of the structure is the ebb - it is mounted outside, and the window sill is installed from the inside;
• parts located on the side of the frame are finished with slopes.

Is it possible to install the window yourself?

There is an opinion that installing windows in a house or apartment is a rather complicated procedure. It must be said that this is not so. What do you need to know during installation? To perform these works you do not need special professional tools and equipment, Huge experience. The procedure includes two main points:

• dismantling the old window unit;
• installation of a new window.

Removing an old window takes an average of 1.5 hours

If we talk about the time required to complete the work, the first stage will require approximately an hour and a half. Installing windows yourself will take less than three hours. It must be said that if you nevertheless decide to opt for the services of specialists, then you should demand certain guarantees from them.

If you installed the tilt and turn windows yourself, this will void your warranty. In this case, it is necessary to purchase structures directly from the manufacturer, who for a long time works in the market, has good feedback from clients. If you decide to buy single-chamber or double-chamber windows in winter, you can always count on a significant discount.

When a window is purchased from a company that carries out installation work, then the customer has a warranty on the fittings for about 5 years. If you install it yourself, you can get a warranty directly from the manufacturer, that is, at the place of purchase.

In order to install windows in a brick house, cinder block house, gas block house or apartment, you must first order a tilt-and-turn or blind structure from the manufacturer, and this requires accurate measurements.

Step-by-step instructions for correct measurements

When you place an order, you will be asked to indicate the following dimensions: the width and height of the structure, the width and length of the slope and window sill.

Before ordering a window, you must take correct measurements of the structure.

Before you start measuring, don't miss important point– what type of opening do you have: with or without a quarter. Look carefully at the window opening: if the outer part is narrower, it means there is a quarter-sized opening in front of you. The measurement is carried out as follows: you need to measure the narrowest part, you will need to measure in several places, find the smallest value, add 3 cm to it. The height is indicated as it is. If your opening is even, then the measurements are done as follows: after measuring the width, subtract 3 cm; measuring the height, minus 5 cm. Read a detailed article about.

Before taking measurements, you need to determine the type of window: with or without a quarter

To determine the size of the window sill, you need to add about 10 cm to the width of the opening inside the window. For low tide, the same is done, only along the outer part of the window. Everyone chooses the width for the window sill for themselves: it is better if it protrudes slightly beyond the radiator.

In addition, when placing an order, you need to decide which components your design will be made: what options for two-, three- or single-leaf windows do you need, how they will open, on which side the capercaillie is located. Don’t forget to decide on the type of fittings (handles, locks, ventilation mechanisms).

If you order several designs at the same time, then the width of all openings may be different, but the height should be the same, you need to choose the most small size. Please note that window openings can be located at different distances from the floor. In apartments, the distance from the floor to the window is approximately 80 cm, while on the balcony the windows can be from the floor. Accommodation in a private house can generally be anything at the discretion of the owners.

Features of measurements for glazing balconies

To determine the width of the glass structure, it is necessary to measure the length of the part of the balcony on which the balcony window will be installed, minus 7 cm on each side. This distance will be required for the installation of the corner profile to which the structures of the side elements of the balcony are attached. The height is calculated as the distance from the support to the roof on the balcony or loggia, and a tolerance of 3 cm must be subtracted for the gap.

How to take correct measurements of windows in a country house

To correctly measure the dimensions of a structure in a private house, knock out part of the slopes on both sides. Very often it turns out that the window opening is much larger than the window that is installed in it. This means that when the structure is dismantled, some of the materials with which the space was filled will also be removed.

Preparing to install a window structure

After you remove the old window, you will need to inspect the resulting opening, remove all parts that may fall off or collapse; if there are protruding elements, they should be knocked down. Then clean the opening from construction debris and dust. If there are large depressions, it is better to cover them with cement. You can also treat everything with primer.

The base will need to be cleaned before installation.

Having finished working with the opening, you need to prepare the PVC window, which is to be installed. To do this, you need to remove the window sashes; if it is solid, double-glazed windows. If your frame has small dimensions, then you can install it without removing the double-glazed windows and sashes. The outer part of the frame should be freed from the film that protects it.

Installation Technology Guide

The finished plastic window is brought into the opening, placed on support blocks and leveled horizontally. After this, using a level, the window is aligned vertically and secured in this position with spacer blocks.

Installation of both fixed windows and opening sashes is the same. There are two options for installing windows: with and without expansion of the structure. When using the first option, holes are drilled through the frame through which anchor bolts are driven into the wall. This method is more complex and more reliable.

When installing a window using the unpacking method, holes are drilled in the frame and wall, into which anchors are then driven in.
Places for attaching anchors and support blocks

If the installation is carried out without unpacking the frame, the window is fastened using special ones, which are attached to the profile and then to the wall. This option is faster. However, it must be taken into account that under significant wind loads, the frame structure may warp or it may sag. If you decide to mount it on a plate, you should choose thick, wide options. Please note that if the region in which you live has a strong wind load or you have to install windows at a height, then you should use the option of unsealing the frame.

Mounting on anchor plates

There are nuances to placing a window in the opening. If the walls are made of foam blocks, brick, cinder block, gas silicate or concrete, then the frame is placed 2/3 deep from the internal thickness of the opening. If the walls are insulated with foam plastic, then the fastening must be done before the insulating layer. When insulating and facing with bricks, the window is installed in the insulation zone.

It is very important to choose the correct installation depth

The installation sequence must be followed:

• Having inserted the frame, level it using support and spacer blocks;
• then attached to the wall;
• after installing the structure, it is necessary to assemble the window;
• then you need to check normal work sashes and all mechanisms, to do this, open and close the window;
• after everything has been checked, the doors must be tightly closed and the gap around the structure must be sealed. For this purpose they use .

However, it must be remembered that in direct contact with sunlight and external environment the material loses its properties and collapses. To protect it, you need to create, this can be a special film that needs to be glued to the outside and inside of the window. After the foam has dried, it is necessary to finish the slopes on both sides (external, internal) of the structure. You can open the window a day after blowing the gap with foam.

To ensure proper installation on both windows and windows, follow these simple rules:

• we install the ebb from the outside in a special slot in the frame or attach it to it with self-tapping screws;
• the window sill is installed as follows: it is necessary to trim it from the edges so that it fits the width of the window opening and rests against the end of the stand profile;
• the level is leveled using special pads, after which the space under the window sill is blown with foam or filled with mortar.

According to the principle described above, windows are installed on a balcony or loggia, in brick or concrete walls. However, keep in mind that the entire weight window design will carry the parapet, so it needs to be strengthened.

Mistakes you can make when installing windows

There are a number of points that you should pay attention to when installing the structure so that it has a long service life:

• you cannot install the window with the glazing beads facing outward, as this reduces the structure’s burglary resistance, since the glazing bead can easily be pulled out and the glass unit removed;
• you need to be careful about leveling the structures when installing the window, otherwise opening and closing the sashes will be difficult;
• It is imperative to protect the polyurethane foam from direct contact sun rays to avoid its destruction;
• It would be wrong to choose to fix the frame structure only with foam: it is absolutely necessary to attach it to the wall, otherwise it may simply fall out.

By following all the installation rules, you can successfully install the window structure yourself, and if you seek the services of professionals, you will be able to monitor their work at any stage.

When planning to replace old windows with new ones, many wonder how difficult it is to install them yourself. The answer is a job of medium complexity. In terms of time, replacing a medium-sized window with dismantling the old one takes about 3.5-4.5 hours. This is for a person with no experience. Company employees who do this all the time spend less than an hour on it. But the installation of plastic windows by the owner of the premises cannot be compared with the hasty work of “professionals”. They simplify the process to the point of indecency, arguing that prices have not been raised for 6 years and they have no time to waste time on trifles. If you are lucky to find truly masters, then you can entrust the installation to them. If not, take a weekend and install it yourself.

Construction of plastic windows

To properly understand the installation process, you need to have an understanding of window design. Let's start with materials and names. Plastic windows are made of polyvinyl chloride, which is abbreviated as PVC. Hence the second name - PVC windows.

The main element of any window is the frame. For plastic windows, the frame is made from a special multi-chamber profile. It is divided by partitions into a number of cells - chambers. The more of these cells, the warmer the window will be. When they talk about how many cameras there will be in a plastic window, they have the number of cells in the profile.

In the middle of the structure, in the largest chamber, an insert is visible of blue color. This is a reinforcing element of increased rigidity. It gives the profile the required strength. In plastic windows this insert is made of plastic, in metal-plastic windows it is made of metal (usually aluminum). That's the whole difference between them.

There is also a division of profiles into classes: economy, standard and premium. Optimal choice, if you need normal windows, use the standard class. In economy class, the partitions are too thin and they begin to freeze almost from the moment they are installed. Premium has a high price due to options that, in fact, are not needed.

If you want to have the best profile for plastic windows, take the standard class of any factory. There is no particular difference between products from different companies. They have long been standardized and all managers’ stories about the advantages are fairy tales. If they are made on factory equipment, there is no difference between them: all factory profiles have long been standardized.

Window profiles as standard have White color, but they can also be brown - to match the color of any tree, and even pink - to order. Windows made from colored profiles are more expensive than similar white ones.

Window structure

To understand what is being discussed in the description of the installation process, you need to know the name of each component of the structure.

It consists of:

• Frames. This is the base of the window.
• If the window consists of several parts, the frame is divided into parts by an impost - a vertical component. If the window is made of two parts, there is one impost; If there are three parts, there are two, etc.
• The opening part of the window is called the sash, the stationary part is called the capercaillie. A double-glazed window is inserted into them - two, three or more glasses, hermetically sealed together. A foil tape is laid between the glasses to ensure tightness. There are double-glazed windows with special properties: with reinforced glass, tinted and energy efficient, which, according to manufacturers, reduces heat loss through the windows. There are also double-glazed windows with inert gas pumped between the glass panes. It also reduces heat loss.
• Double-glazed windows are pressed to the frame with a cap - a thin plastic strip. The tightness of the connection is ensured rubber seal(it is usually black).
• Locking fittings are installed on the sashes. This is a specific set of mechanisms that provide opening and locking. They can be different, as they provide different functionality: opening, opening with ventilation, opening + ventilation + micro-ventilation.
• To ensure tightness, rubber seals are installed on all parts - frame, impost and sashes.

At the bottom of the outer side of the frame (the one facing the street) there are drainage holes that are closed with special caps. Through them, condensation that forms inside due to the difference in temperature outside and indoors is discharged outside.

The window also has a sill - a board on the outside that removes precipitation and a window sill on the inside. Side and top parts from the street and indoors. They can also be made of plastic or made using a different technology.

How to measure a plastic window

When ordering windows, you will be asked for six sizes: the height and width of the window, the length and width of the window sill and slope. To measure everything correctly, you need to determine whether your window opening is made with a quarter or without.

Inspect the opening. If the outer part of the window is narrower, the opening is a quarter. In this case, measurements are taken at the narrowest point: openings rarely have ideal geometry, so you will have to measure at several points. Find the smallest value, add 3 cm to it. Transmit the height as it is.

If the opening is smooth, the calculation proceeds differently. Measure the width and height. Subtract 3 cm from the measured width and 5 cm from the height. This will be the height and width of your window. We remove 3 cm in width, since a gap of at least 1.5 cm is required on both sides under the mounting foam. We subtract 5 cm in height, since the same 1.5 cm is needed on top, and 3.5 cm on the bottom will be used to install the window sill.

The length of the window sill and ebb is taken with a margin - 5-10 cm more than the width of the window opening. During installation, both the ebb and the window sill are “recessed” a little into the adjacent walls, and the excess will go there. The width of the tides is standard, so the nearest larger one is selected. On window sills the situation is different. Its width is chosen arbitrarily - at the request of the owner. Some people like them wide so they can put something, others prefer them flush with the wall. So there are no rules here.

When ordering, you will need to indicate how many and what parts will be in your window: whether there is a capercaillie or not, where it is located, how many sashes, which side they are on, how they should open. You will need to indicate the type of fittings (ventilation, micro-ventilation).

Preparation

If you are replacing windows, installing plastic windows yourself begins with dismantling the old one. Problems usually do not arise: breaking does not build. After dismantling, it is necessary to inspect the opening: remove everything that can fall off. If there are any protruding parts, they must be removed - using a hammer, chisel or power tool. When the plane is leveled, all construction debris must be removed. Ideally, sweep away everything, even the dust, otherwise the foam will not “grab” well with the wall during installation.

If there are too large potholes or cavities, it is better to cover them up cement mortar. The smoother the opening, the easier the installation will be. If the wall material is loose, they can be treated with binding compounds: penetrating adhesive primers.

How to install correctly: choosing an installation method

There are two different techniques: with and without unpacking (disassembling) the window. When unpacking, holes are drilled through the frame and anchors are driven through them into the wall. This method is more complicated, but the fastening is more reliable.

This is an anchor bolt installation. There are three of them on each side.

When installing without unpacking, metal plates are attached to the outside of the frame, and then they are attached to the walls. This is naturally faster, but the fastening is very unreliable: under significant wind loads, the frame will warp or it will sag.

If you really don’t want to disassemble the window, you can mount it on a plate, but use not narrow and thin ones, but thick and wide ones, which are often used when installing a rafter system.

In principle, no big windows, installed on mounting plates, provided there are no significant wind loads, can stand normally. If you live in an area with strong winds, and they blow mainly through your windows, if the apartment is located in a high-rise building - in these cases, installation with unpacking is necessary.

Below, watch an emotional and intelligible video that explains why it is better to use anchors.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows: step-by-step instructions

Let's describe both methods: suddenly you need a method with mounting on plates. It is used in buildings made of foam blocks, load bearing capacity which are small and the load from the windows has to be distributed over a large surface. This method of installing plastic windows is also necessary if the building is built using “layered” technology. For example, there is concrete in front and behind, and a layer of insulation between them. If the window must stand in the soft layer, then it will need to be secured with plates. Installation of PVC windows in brick, cinder block, panel, etc. the house is desirable on the anchor.

Installation and unpacking

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows begins with measurements. Measure the frame and window opening to make sure they are compatible. Afterwards you can start working. The process begins with disassembling (unpacking) the PVC window. Here are the steps:

1. 1. 1. 1. Removing the window sash:
            • Close the window (the handle is turned down).
            • Remove the plastic covers on both hinges. They are pryed off with a screwdriver.
            • There is a pin on the top hinge that provides a movable connection. It is located in the center and protrudes slightly. They press on it until it sinks (you can take a metal plate, rest it against the pin and lightly tap the plate). The pin will slide out from below. Now you can grab it with side cutters or pliers and pull it down and pull it out.
            • Hold the door up and open the lock. To do this, place the handle in a horizontal position. Having tilted the upper part towards you slightly, lift the sash, removing it from the lower pin.

            The entire sash has been removed. To make it clearer, watch the video. It describes in detail how to remove and install the sash on a plastic window.
            

         2. On the wood grouse, remove the glass unit. It is held in place by glazing beads. They need to be removed, then the glass unit itself will be removed without any problems. Remove the glazing beads like this:
            • Something narrow and strong is inserted into the gap between the bead and the frame. If you don't have a special tool, it's best to use a small spatula. Disassembly begins from one of the long sides.
            • The spatula is carefully pushed into the crack with a corner and the glazing bead is gradually moved away from the frame.
            • Without removing the tool, move along a little, again pushing the glazing bead to the side.
            • This goes along the entire length. As a result, the glazing bead is almost separated; it is simply removed.
            • With the short side, everything is simpler: you pry up the free edge and, by turning the spatula, remove it from the groove. Grab the free edge with your hand and pull up.

            Now you can try to remove the glass unit. Just be careful: it's heavy. If that doesn't work, remove another one of the beads. Just make sure that the window is tilted and the glass unit does not fall out. Now, if necessary, you can replace the double-glazed window yourself. Watch a video on how to remove glazing beads from PVC windows.

      1. The freed frame is covered with a special self-adhesive tape along the outer perimeter. Its installation is recommended by GOST. With it the window doesn't get so cold.

         

      2. Remove the protective tape with the campaign logo. If you leave it, it will fuse too much with the frame under the influence of the sun and it will be problematic to remove it.
      3. The prepared frame is inserted into the window opening. Mounting wedges are used to position it. They must be installed in the corners and under the impost. The rest are arranged as needed. By placing them, the window is set strictly level in three planes. The position of the window is pre-fixed. This is what you can use mounting plates for.

         

      4. Take a drill and a drill bit that matches the diameter of the anchors. Make holes for fasteners. 150-180 mm retreat from the top edge. This is the first hole. The bottom one is approximately the same distance from the bottom corner. Another anchor is installed between them in a standard window: maximum distance There should not be more than 700 mm between two fastenings.
      5. Having made a hole, check whether the frame has moved (level in all three planes), then hammer in the anchor and tighten it. You cannot overtighten: the profile should not sag. Repeat this operation required amount once.

         

      6. Install ebb tides outside. To do this, first a vapor-permeable waterproofing is glued to the outer part of the frame (it is self-adhesive). Small grooves are made on the sides of the window opening, into which the edges of the tides are then inserted.

         

      7. A layer of foam is applied to the part of the window opening from the outside, where the ebb will rest on the wall. Sometimes, if the height difference is large, a lining profile is installed here. and then an olive is attached to it. The ebb, cut to size, is placed under the projection of the frame and there it is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws.

         

      8. Along the lower edge the ebb also foams.

         

      9. Next, foam the opening. When installing plastic windows in the summer, the gap between the frame and the window opening is sprayed with water from a spray bottle. This is necessary for better polymerization of the foam.
      10. A vapor-permeable heat-insulating strip is glued along the contour of the frame - it is also recommended by GOST.
      11. Take a balloon with foam and fill the existing gaps to 2/3 of the volume. If the gap is large - more than 2-3 cm - foam is applied in several stages. A time interval of 10-15 minutes is required between two layers. When the first layer is partially dry, it is also sprinkled with water and the second is applied. This is repeated until the volume is 2/3 filled.

          

          When installing PVC windows with your own hands, foaming can be done in several stages - depending on the size of the gap

      12. Without waiting for complete polymerization, the free edge of the heat-insulating tape is glued to the window opening. Just note that when using tape, the slopes will need to be made of plastic: the plaster and mortar will not “stick” to it.
      13. Assemble all parts of the window. There are only Finishing work, and they are not a hindrance.
      14. A vapor barrier tape is also installed under the window sill in the lower part (also GOST recommendations). The window sill rests on support blocks made of hard wood treated with impregnation. The distance between them is 40-50 cm. They are made in such a way that the window sill is slightly inclined towards the room (about 5°).

          

Watch the video to learn how to correctly install a window sill when installing a plastic window. There are many secrets.

The last to be installed or sealed are the slopes. One more video on this matter.

Installation without unpacking

The main details are described above, so this chapter is short. Installation for this option begins with the installation of mounting plates. They are of two types: U-shaped and linear. It is important to choose the most reliable ones from thick metal.

They are installed at the same distance as the anchors: 150-250 mm from the edge and no more than 700 mm between the middle ones. They are simply screwed to the profile with self-tapping screws.

Then installing plastic windows with your own hands with mounting plates is identical to that described above, starting from the moment the window is leveled in the opening. Only they attach not the frame, but the plates, and not to anchors, but to dowel-nails. Drill a hole, bend the plate, insert a dowel, put the plate in place and tighten the dowel. Further all actions are identical.

Now it’s clear why installers prefer them: a decent amount of work is spent on disassembly, anchoring, etc.: screws are much easier to tighten. True, if you take powerful plates, they will hold tightly. No worse than an anchor. For example, like in the video.

There are several ways to install plastic windows. Anchor plates for PVC windows are used quite often; they can be attached in different ways. Each method has certain positive sides, but is not without its drawbacks. We will illustrate them, leaving the reader to choose the most acceptable option for him, since we suggest universal solution impossible.

Difficulties associated with installation

Anchoring a frame, although it may seem like a simple task, can actually cause a lot of problems. negative consequences, especially if the installation will be carried out by a non-professional. Before deciding whether you need such a mount, you should carefully study possible consequences errors during work.

• In this case, the frame is secured using anchor bolts. In order to make such a mount, you will need to drill the frame. The disadvantage of this action can immediately be called the depressurization of the glass unit chambers.
• Another problem may be freezing of the structure, since drilling disrupts the reinforcement of the system. If the double-glazed window freezes, you will encounter excess moisture in the room, and mold may appear on the slopes over time.
• Installation must be carried out experienced master, since if not handled carefully, the plastic structure can stretch. If the frame geometry is disrupted, it will be difficult or even impossible to return it to its normal position.

However, despite all the disadvantages, this fastening method has an important advantage: the window will be securely fastened, and it can only be dismantled by thoroughly disassembling it from the inside. Installation takes little time, does not require leveling, as happens with foam, and after installation is completed, the structure is immediately ready for use. The connection is considered to be as reliable and durable as possible. The bolts and plates themselves are inexpensive and are sold in all hardware stores.

Types of window fastening

How to attach to plates?

Anchor plates help make the installation process quick and easy. One of the important advantages is that there is no need to remove the glass unit from the frame. The profile system will not be drilled, which means it will be possible to avoid problems that arise when drilling through the frame. The double-glazed windows will not depressurize, the structure will not lose rigidity, and will not begin to freeze. There is absolutely no risk of frame distortion. However, the method cannot be called perfect either: one of the important drawbacks is that it is not attractive appearance, since part of the fastening will be visible after installation.

Advice: the anchor plate can be hidden under the slopes if you install them correctly and disguise it with overhead elements.

The second significant drawback is the increased load on the structure when the doors are opened frequently. A window can quickly fail, which is why experts recommend fixing only solid structures in this way.

Other methods of attaching a plastic window

There is a method that combines several methods of fastening the frame, in which case some of the disadvantages of both of the above methods can be avoided. With the combined method, the upper part of the frame is attached to anchor plates for windows, and the lower part is secured with anchors. This allows you to avoid impacts on the frame when opening, and also to adjust its height.

Fastening plates with windows using self-tapping screws

How are windows installed on an anchor plate?

Mounting plates for PVC windows are produced in different ways, so before installation you need to choose the right one. There are only two types of designs: universal, suitable for any window frames, and special, which are made for windows of non-standard shape. Such elements have special ears, with which they can be fixed with self-tapping screws, placing them in the groove of the window profile. The universal plate does not have ears and is secured with bolts.

Advice: for installation you need to choose 4.5x25 mm bolts. Pay attention to the tip, it must have a metal drill, otherwise it will be difficult to drill through the structure.

Anchor mount

Sequence of work when installing a window on anchor plates

If you are using standard windows, you will need about 5 anchor plates. One of them will be located in the center of the frame, the rest are placed at a distance of about 20 cm from the corner. During installation, you will not need to remove double-glazed windows or remove glazing beads: the plates will be attached to the outside of the window opening, in this case the fasteners are made through.

Places for installing anchor plates on the window

Advice: if the structure is large, for example, exceeds 4 square meters. m, then it should not be mounted on plates, since the window will have a large mass. You can use a dowel connection, which can be combined with anchor plates.

The position of the plates on the wall is marked in advance so that the fastening is better; a bed for the plate is knocked out in the wall with a chisel. Lie down in the notch fastener should be tight, without protruding beyond its limits. After installing the structure, it is recommended to fill the gaps with mounting foam: this will help avoid drafts and also secure the window more securely.

Conclusion: mounting plates for PVC windows – fast and convenient way fastenings, although not without shortcomings. With the right approach, it will become an affordable and quick solution for reliable installation of window structures.

The fact that plastic windows are much more reliable, durable and economical than their wooden counterparts has been proven in practice. But the main problem faced by people who want to replace old frames is the high cost of transport and installation of new structures. Even a novice master can carry out installation on his own. You just need to know the nuances and tricks of the upcoming work. It makes more sense to install a new frame on anchor plates.

Figure 1. Scheme of formation of anchor fasteners.

Installation Basics

Now there are 2 methods of installing windows, which differ in the type of fastening unit and the method of fixing the frame to the window opening. This is installation with and without unpacking. To install a window yourself, it is wiser to choose the 2nd option, since it is simpler, does not require special skills, and the work does not take much time. In addition, it helps to avoid errors during installation and makes it quite easy to configure all the fittings.

Installation without unpacking does not imply removing the bead and dismantling the glass unit from the frame. The structure itself is attached to anchor plates. The principle of forming such fasteners is shown in Fig. 1.

Before installing a new window, you must select the correct plates themselves. They come in two types: universal and designed for a specific model. That is, they take into account the requirements of a specific profile system. As a rule, such anchor plates come complete with complex, non-standard structures.

Figure 2. Layout of anchor plates during installation.

Specialized fasteners differ from universal ones in that they are equipped with ears. These elements are installed in the groove of the frame profile and fixed with self-tapping screws. Universal plates do not have special ears. They are simply secured with bolts.

For installation of window structures, experts recommend choosing bolts of the 4.5*25 type. Their body must be equipped with a metal drill. Since the self-tapping screw is attached to a reinforced structure, another type of fastening may not fit or will not fix the plate very securely.

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Window installation rules

The central plate is fixed exactly in the middle of the frame, and the side plates are fixed approximately at a distance of 20-25 cm from the edge of the structure.

As mentioned above, the method of installing a plastic window without unpacking does not require removing the glazing bead and the glass unit itself. This becomes possible due to the fact that the frame is fixed using anchor plates on outside window opening. Otherwise, you have to form through fasteners.

Figure 3. Low tide installation diagram.

But you need to remember that large structures (with an area of ​​more than 4 m2) should not be installed using plates. After all, such a mount may not withstand the weight of the window. In this case, it is wiser to use anchor dowels. For plastic double glazed windows small or medium-sized plates will be the most rational way of fastening.

Not only large windows, but also doors are secured with dowels. Professionals believe that this installation method is the most reliable. But it has a number of significant disadvantages:

1. Installation with unpacking is difficult even for specialists. Often, with this installation method, the glass unit breaks or cracks form on it.
2. Installation on anchor bolts is almost impossible to do alone.
3. Working with such fasteners requires experience and special skills.
4. The work requires more effort and time.

If you prefer this installation option, then you need to purchase dowels measuring 10*132 mm. In addition, installing anchors requires a powerful hammer drill. Some modern stores that sell equipment for construction and repair provide rental services. Therefore, it is not necessary to buy an expensive device. But it’s easier to install the window on plates.

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Installing a window using plates

To carry out the work you will need the following tools:

• electric hammer drill (or drill with impact function);
• screwdriver;
• hacksaw (it’s wiser to use a jigsaw);
• hex key for adjusting fittings;
• anchor plates (5 pcs.);
• bolts (self-tapping screws);
• polyurethane foam in cylinders;
• silicone in cylinders (and a gun for working with it).

Don't forget to have your measuring tools ready. You will need a measuring tape, a building level and a square. All required labels can be marked with a simple pencil. As a rule, traces of it can be removed from plastic with ordinary dishwashing detergent. When everything you need is prepared, you can begin installing the windows.

When installing plates, the following rules must be observed:

1. For fixation, use only mechanical fasteners (screws). Never use glue or foam.
2. When forming holes for fastenings, use the impact mechanism only if the slope is made of concrete.
3. The drill must be long enough. Make sure that the drill chuck does not damage the window frame. The edge can be protected by placing a piece of PVC next to the socket being drilled.
4. If the wall is made of brick with vertical voids, then the hole must be formed in the seam between the blocks. The solution will “hold” the fastening quite securely.
5. To install self-tapping screws, it is better to use a screwdriver with a torque limiter. This will allow you to control how the fastener fits into the frame and how deep it goes.

Following these simple principles will help you install the window without errors that will be difficult to correct.

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Installing frame mounts

First you need to secure the anchor plates themselves. At the same time, make sure that the distance from one plate to another does not exceed 1 m. If you are going to install a high window, then it is wiser to install an additional fastening unit.

In this case, the distance of the outer elements from the corner of the window structure should be 20-25 cm. There is no point in doing it anymore. Since in this case the frame may lose stability.

Remember that the self-tapping screw with which the plate is fixed to the window must be equipped with a drill.

These bolts are usually marked "for metal". This necessity is explained by the fact that the window is covered with plastic only on the outside. There is an aluminum profile inside the structure.

If you want to use regular bolts, you need to first form holes in the frame. To do this you will need a drill and a metal drill bit. Make sure that the socket is 1 mm smaller than the diameter of the screw.

If necessary, the anchor plates can be replaced with universal U-shaped brackets measuring 125 mm. Such fasteners are usually used when installing plasterboard boards. But it is wiser to use ready-made anchor plates.

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Window frame installation

The distance from the window frame to the opening in the wall should be 2-3.5 cm. If the gap is smaller, then it is necessary to form recesses in the slopes for installing fasteners. This is done as follows:

1. Install fasteners on the window.
2. Install the frame into the opening provided for it.
3. Mark the location of the plates on the wall. To do this, use a simple pencil or chalk.
4. Remove the window and use a chisel to select the bed. Its depth should not exceed 2 cm, but the plate must fit tightly into it and not protrude beyond the edges.

This technique will help in the further finishing of the window opening. Since the anchor plates do not have to be “hidden” under an additional (sufficiently thick) layer of plaster.

Next, you need to insert the frame into the opening and align its position. To do this, you will need wooden wedges, which must be prepared in advance. The thickness of the wedges should be 0.7-3 cm. The wedges must be installed only under the horizontal crossbars of the structure, while simultaneously aligning the window vertically. Constantly check the position of the frame using a building level. In order to achieve correct installation windows, if necessary, several wedges of different thicknesses can be placed in one place at once.

Then you should fix the plates on the window opening. To fix the fastening on a concrete or brick slope, 6*40 dowels are usually used. For wooden slopes, it is wiser to take self-tapping screws designed for woodworking. In this case, mounts measuring 4.2*45 will suit you.

To ensure that the frame does not warp during installation, the plates are attached sequentially. As a rule, installation begins from the lower left corner, and then fixes the lower right. In this case, you must constantly check the correct installation using a building level. While working, you may accidentally push or move the frame. And it's wrong installed frame will make it difficult to adjust the position of the sashes and install fittings. The top plates are secured last.