How to putty the wall behind the radiator without removing it. How to seal under the battery

When an unsightly heating radiator spoils the interior, there are several ways to solve the problem: replace it with a designer or in-floor model, or simply cover it with a screen/box. The latter method provides several advantages:

• A screen or box not only hides a bulky structure, but often decorates the room.
• The screen/box can be used to build an additional console, a shelf for decoration, a bench, a rack, or a desktop.
• A closed battery is safer for children - there is no risk of burns or accidental impacts. However, one can argue with this argument, because it is in the children's room that heat loss is least needed.

In a children's room, the radiator should be covered with a nice grille with big amount holes, for example, carved as in this photo

• If the house is too hot and dry, then closing the radiator will help create a comfortable microclimate for household members, their pets and plants.
• The screen prevents dust from settling in the inside of the radiator and thus simplifies cleaning.

There are also disadvantages:

• The heat transfer of a closed battery decreases on average by 10-15% or more (depending on the degree of closure);
• Screens and boxes often make it difficult to service radiators, and sometimes even block access to them.
• Often, improperly closed batteries lead to fogging of windows, and then to the appearance of harmful mold on slopes and walls.
• The screen or box, at least a little, “eats up” the space around the radiator. After all, any elements should be installed at a distance of 5-10 cm from the battery.
• Battery fencing requires additional expense and hassle.

How to cover radiators - 11 ways from a plasterboard box to a fabric screen

1. Decorative screen/box made of HDF

This option is one of the most popular due to its average price and beautiful appearance.

What is the difference between a box and a screen? The screen is designed for a battery located in a niche or under a window sill (pictured above), therefore, it covers only its front part. The box completely covers the radiator on the wall from all sides.

The screen, like the box panel, is made of perforated HDF sheet (high-density fiberboard 3 mm thick), but the box profiles are made of MDF. Both materials are quite strong, durable and non-toxic when heated.

Advantages:

• Due to the original perforation, HDF screens/boxes look beautiful and fit into any interior, especially to classic .
• Heat resistance (the structure does not dry out like natural wood and does not turn yellow like plastic).
• Easy to assemble and install without the help of specialists.
• Ready-made HDF screens/boxes can be white or imitate wood (wenge, beech, oak), and custom-made ones can be painted in any color, laminated, veneered natural wood. True, the complexity of the design always affects the price of the screen.

Flaws:

• MDF and HDF do not tolerate prolonged contact with water. If the battery leaks or a pipe breaks, the elements of the box/screen may swell. Therefore, any emergency situations must be resolved immediately.
• Perforated panels, despite their thinness, are quite durable due to the high density of fiberboard. However, they must be protected from impacts and sharp objects.
• Perforation sections in factory screens are not painted and are therefore visible.

Price: from 1500 rubles for a finished model and from 2300 rubles for an individual order.

Selection tips:

• The size of the radiator niche must correspond to the size of the inside of the screen.
• Screens and boxes for batteries can be either ready-made (assembled like a kit), or made to individual sizes and designs (you can choose a perforation pattern).

Here is a small selection of photos of closed batteries.

Closed battery in the interior of a small kitchen in Khrushchev

2. A plasterboard box

How to cover a battery with drywall? Using this material, you can cover the radiator with a box or create a niche for it in a false wall.

Advantages:

• Environmental friendliness;
• Can be used in damp areas;
• Material available;
• With a false wall you can cover the pipes and expand the window sill;
• You can close the battery with a plasterboard box with your own hands without special skills in a few hours of work;
• You can think through the configuration of the box and false wall yourself, if you wish, equip it with shelves and niches, and additionally cover the pipes connected to the battery. Next, you can look at a photo of a closed battery in a plasterboard false wall with an enlarged window sill-bench and a built-in niche for books.

Flaws:

• The main disadvantage of a plasterboard box is that this material is afraid of shocks and leaks. If something goes wrong, you will have to completely change the battery casing along with the finishing.
• A false plasterboard wall for the battery and pipes “eats up” the space, as it is placed 30-35 mm forward from the extreme point of the radiator.

• As a rule, a frame made of HA must be made at the renovation stage, because its finishing must coincide with the finishing of the walls.

In the following photos you can see finished interior kitchens with closed battery and a plasterboard box in the process of renovation.

Design and Manufacturing Tips:

• Before closing the radiator with a plasterboard box, be sure to put it in order: blow it out, rinse it (this is done at the end heating season) and paint. In the future, doing this without dismantling the box will be difficult or even impossible.
• The box can be installed on the floor or “hang” on the wall.
• When designing the box, keep in mind that the window sill canopy must protrude above the front of the box by at least 30 mm. If necessary, the old window sill should be replaced with a wider one.

Visual instructions on how to cover the battery and pipes with a false plasterboard wall are presented in the video below.

And here is a video tutorial on how to cover a radiator with a box.

3. Furniture

In the kitchen, the battery along with the window sill can be built into a set or bar counter, and in the living room, bedroom and hallway - into a bench, console or shelving unit.

This slider presents a selection of photos of closed radiators under the bench.

• The main condition: in the window sill/lid above the battery you need to provide enough holes for air circulation, and the facade (if there is one) covering the battery must be equipped with a grille (see photo below). Otherwise, there is a risk of windows fogging up and cold in the room.

Sometimes, to hide a heating radiator, it is enough to rearrange the furniture and cover the device, say, with a sofa, armchair or console. In order not to disturb the air circulation, it is better to place the piece of furniture away from the radiator (at least 10 cm), it is also advisable that it stands on legs - this way convective flows will not be blocked.

4. Fabric curtain

This method of disguise is good for rented housing or when the problem of unsightly batteries needs to be solved at minimal cost. The advantages of the curtain are obvious: a piece of fabric is inexpensive, and the choice of colors is very large (you can change the “screens” according to your mood), while the battery always remains available for repair and inspection.

5. Natural wood screen

Advantages:

• Beautiful and expensive appearance even in the simplest design;
• Environmental friendliness;
• Good heat dissipation and ability to accumulate heat.

Flaws:

• Wood is capricious - poorly prepared wood can swell from a leak or warp from heat;
• A wooden screen requires special care;
• High price.

Prices: from 3,000 rubles for the simplest models and from 10 thousand rubles for premium wooden screens.

Here are some photos of beautifully sealed batteries.

6. Glass screen

A glass screen is an excellent decorative solution, but from a thermal engineering point of view it is very controversial.

Advantages:

• Design for every taste - the glass panel can be transparent and colored, matte and shiny, with or without a sandblasted pattern, with beveled or polished edges;
• Glass can look neutral or very bright;
• Glass visually looks light and adds airiness to the interior;
• Ease of care;
• Strength;
• Durability;
• Heat resistance;
• Moisture resistance;
• Absolutely environmentally friendly.

Flaws:

• More suitable for modern rather than classic interiors;
• “Eats” up to 40-50% of heat (infrared radiation);
• High price;
• Fingerprints may remain on the glass;
• The panel does not cover the ends of the battery;
• Screen installation most often requires the help of a specialist.

• The battery screen must be made of tempered glass only. This is the only way it will be absolutely safe and shockproof.
• Glass screens are good for use in rooms with excess heat.

7. Metal box

Advantages:

• Practically do not interfere with heat transfer;
• Low price;
• Easy care;
• Absolute moisture and heat resistance.

Flaws:

• “Office” appearance that will not fit into every interior.

Selection tips:

• A metal screen for a battery can look very nice if you order its production from a company specializing in laser cutting metal or forging.

8. A rattan box or screen

Most often, rattan fabric refers to an artificial rattan mesh woven from cellulose-based fibers reinforced with nylon thread. Artificial rattan is very similar to natural rattan, but unlike it, it is more practical and can be painted in any color. Screens made from natural rattan have natural beauty and durability, but they cost twice as much and are much more difficult to find on sale.

Advantages of a rattan screen:

• Environmental friendliness;
• Beautiful view;
• Strength;
• Elasticity;
• Good heat dissipation.

Flaws:

• The weaving of artificial rattan is quite dense, which can affect heat transfer;
• The screen must be protected from water.

Prices: from 1,700 rubles (artificial rattan screen).

Rattan fabric (both artificial and natural) can be used to make a battery screen with your own hands. To do this, you need to assemble the box with the frame at the corners, attach the mesh to the inside of the frame, then install the box on the radiator using brackets.

9. Hinged metal screen

The metal structure consists of a cover and a screen and is hung on top of the battery without fixation.

Advantages:

• Easy installation;
• Simple dismantling, which facilitates radiator maintenance;
• Profitable price;
• Durability;
• Does not reduce battery efficiency.

Flaws:

• The ends of the battery remain visible;
• Almost always, suspended screens are grilles without any decorative elements.

• There must be high-quality enamel that does not scratch;
• It should hold tightly and be easily removed;
• The screen metal must not be subject to corrosion.

10. Curtains to the floor

Masking the radiator with curtains – great idea, approved by both heating engineers and decorators. The only problem is that it won’t be possible to hide the battery under the window behind a curtain without shading the room. Unless you hang very light tulle like in this photo.

Ability to independently change the panel size;

Suitable for kitchens, bathrooms and toilets, that is, rooms with high humidity;

Affordable price.

Flaws:

• It looks simple, no frills;
• Over time, the plastic may turn yellow;
• When heated, low-quality plastic can emit toxic substances eg formaldehyde.

Prices: from 300 rubles.

Selection tips:

• Plastic battery screens are available in basic colors: white, gray, brown, beige. If desired, the screen can be painted in the desired color with alkyd spray paint for plastic;
• When choosing a plastic screen for a battery, make sure it is heat-resistant and non-toxic.

How to close batteries correctly - technical rules and tips

Before closing the radiator, you need to take into account several technical nuances:

• Keep in mind that the heat transfer of a closed radiator is reduced in any case, no matter what masking method you choose. The main thing is that the change is not significant. Ideally, the decrease in air temperature in the room should be about 1-1.5 degrees.
• Before closing the battery, put it in order: blow it out, wash it (this is done at the end of the heating season) and paint it.
• Keep in mind that the denser the grille weave, the better it masks the radiator, but the worse it conducts heat. Therefore, when choosing a screen for a battery, try to look for a middle ground or rely on heat saving.
• To minimize heat loss, the screen can be placed on legs and a groove can be cut in the center.

• When closing the battery, it is very important not to block convective air flows, otherwise it will blow in the room and the windows will begin to fog up, which will ultimately lead to the appearance of mold on the walls. Ideally, the window sill visor should protrude no more than 30 mm above the radiator; the top and bottom of the radiator should be as open as possible.
• There should be a distance of at least 35-50 mm between the battery and the screen. There should be a gap of about 60-70 mm from the radiator to the floor and to the window sill.
• To resolve emergency situations, it is necessary to provide free access to the radiator. For example, the box grille can be removable, folding (see photo), opening on hinges or sliding out on profiles.

At a minimum, for trouble-free maintenance, the following must remain in good accessibility: pipe connections, valves, thermal head and threaded connections.

• You can increase heat transfer by 20-25% by placing a heat-reflecting screen, for example, fumisol, on the wall behind the radiator. Often this is quite enough to completely compensate for the heat loss of a closed battery.

The point of pasting the wall on the battery side with foil material is an inexpensive way to increase the temperature in the apartment by 2-5 degrees and does not require special knowledge. The radiators heat the brick or concrete of the external wall in the same way as they stand under the windows. In order for all the heat from the battery to be used to heat the room, a special heat-reflecting material must be placed between the radiators and the walls: foil, which is glued to the heat insulator. What does foil do for walls with a radiator? Foil (heat-reflecting screen) behind the radiator will keep the house warm and save on heating costs.

To install the heat shield we will need:

• any aluminum foil on soft foam (rolled) mainly with a thickness of 2-7 mm (for example, Aluf) in the required quantity;
• wallpaper glue or liquid nails.

Instructions for installing the foil screen behind the battery:

1. We measure the width and height of the battery (we get the amount of heat-reflecting material required). Everyone says the screen should be a little bigger than the battery. But I think that the battery area is sufficient (the aesthetic appearance is also important).
2. We buy the required amount of heat-reflecting material. As a rule, 3-5 mm is enough for any walls. Foil propylene foam in rolls is the cheapest and most reliable material for a heat shield.
3. Next, we need to cut heat-reflecting screens for each radiator from the purchased material.
4. We fix the heat-reflecting screen behind the radiator with glue or liquid nails. The desired distance between the wall and the battery is at least 3 cm; in any case, the radiator fins should not touch the foil. You can mount it on the wall, or you can use it on special grilles, that is, provide a distance of several cm between the wall and the screen. This will also increase the energy efficiency of the screen, but, of course, such a distance between the wall and the battery may simply technically not exist.

Foil insulating screen (heat reflector from battery)

Installing a foil screen allows you to raise the room temperature by 2-5 degrees. How to glue the heat reflector behind the batteries?

Pasting nuances:

1. The surface of the wall on which you are going to glue the heat reflector for batteries must be flat.
2. Do not confuse foil with other metalized materials. The material made of lavsan base with aluminum coating reflects heat worse. To check whether it is foil or not, try setting it on fire: the foil will not melt.
3. If the battery is installed in a so-called “niche” and the wall behind it is thin, then installing a heat shield can lead to severe freezing in cold weather and, accordingly, slow destruction.

Watch the video: an example of installing a heat shield under a battery

Video: how to mount a reflector under the battery

Does the thickness of the heat reflector behind the battery matter?

A thickness of 5 mm is enough for any walls. Heat reflection is provided by the mirror surface of the heat reflector from the battery itself.

What glue should I use to glue heat-reflecting foil to the wall?

The heat-reflecting screen under the battery can be glued using liquid nails or glue for heavy wallpaper.

They either covered it with wallpaper or painted it as far as they could reach or crawl under the radiator. Today, finishing the wall behind the radiator is an integral part of the repair, and no matter how you are convinced that this place will be covered with a curtain, you should not neglect this operation.

In most cases finishing the wall behind the battery cannot be carried out through the installed battery. For this reason, it is necessary to carry out this either before installing new radiators, or to remove the radiators during the work, making marks on the location of the battery, this will help determine the size of the surface to be finished.

Painting and gluing behind the radiator are all just temporary finishing options; due to the inaccessibility of cleaning in these places, sections of walls finished in this way quickly become unusable. We would advise laying tiles behind the radiator, which are practically eternal and undemanding to clean.

If at the top it is possible to finish both directly to the level of installation of the radiator and to the window sill, then at the bottom it is necessary to take into account the level and height of the plinth that will be installed on the floor, because if a tile gets in its way, the baseboard will have to be cut into pieces, plugs installed, etc., which may negatively affect appearance finishing carried out.

We begin work from the bottom. We beat off the level of the tile and attach a block of the required length to the wall with dowels. Its length should be slightly larger than the area to be finished and have a margin on the right and left sides. After this, you can begin finishing, of course, having previously primed the walls. We apply the solution to the first one and mount it on the wall, placing it on a block and orienting it along the side mark. Next, the surface is leveled; if necessary, it must be tamped down in protruding places, or the solution must be added where it is lacking. After this, the tiles are aligned horizontally; if necessary, special plastic wedges for tiles are inserted between the block and the bar. The next tile is oriented relative to the previous one using mounting crosses for the tile. It is also set on the block using a level and wedges.

Finishing the wall behind the radiator continues in this way right up to the window sill; on the last row, the tiles, if necessary, are cut to the required size using a tile cutter. After the solution has dried, the tiles are grouted. And when it dries, you can begin to install the radiator in place.

Arranging the space behind the heating radiators. - blogs - poremontu.ru

I have a fairly old panel house. Almost twenty years have passed since its construction. Naturally, during this time, I, to one degree or another, remodeled almost the entire apartment.

Boxes for heating radiators

Boxes that hide batteries are best installed when repairing or installing a heating system. The following materials are suitable for making the box:

• Drywall. One of the most common materials. It is low cost, lightweight and easy to process. There are many ways to complete finishing using drywall. This material can be puttied and painted, covered with wallpaper and film, and decorated with stucco.
• MDF panels. Another budget option for decorative cladding. MDF is not afraid of sudden temperature changes and is not subject to drying out. Typically, the design of MDF panels imitates exotic or rare wood, which makes it easy to fit into the interior of the room.
• Plywood. This material is very light and easy to process. With its help you can quickly make a durable and lightweight screen for the radiator. Plywood is easy to cut and also decorated. Varnishing, painting, gluing film or wallpaper, or decorative plaster can be selected as finishing treatments.
• Laminated chipboard sheets. This material is more difficult to work with, although there are never any problems with fixing it.
• Wood. This material is supported by its environmental friendliness and naturalness. Using wooden blocks and slats, you can make a wonderful box without any work skills or special tools, which will help to perfectly cover not only the radiator, but also the heating pipes. At the same time, it is much easier to work with slats, especially when working in hard-to-reach places.

The box can become not just a decoration and disguise for a heating radiator, but also carry a functional or aesthetic load. If we consider the option with functionality, then you can, for example, use chipboard sheets and guides to make a cabinet the entire width of the room. The optimal height of such a cabinet should correspond to the height of the window sill if the radiator is located under the window.

The central part of the box cabinet effectively masks the heating radiator, while the rest of the box is used as a bookcase

The aesthetic load of the box is more difficult to implement, but quite doable. A radiator located near the wall can be decorated as a fireplace. In this case, it is not necessary to use brickwork and install a forged lattice. You can do it much simpler and make a box from a cut sheet of plywood or fiberboard.

Maintaining proportions and not deviating from the scheme, in just a few hours you can make a frame for a decorative fireplace from wooden slats and plywood and design it

After securing the wooden slatted frame and installing the cut plywood sheets, all that remains is to cover the fireplace with film. You can go further and stick a painted flame or smoldering coals inside the fireplace; here everything depends on the flight of your imagination.

Image gallery

Installation of batteries in walls

One of the most labor-intensive methods of masking radiators and heating pipes is implemented at the construction stage or carrying out major repairs. This method involves placing pipes and radiators not on the wall, but inside it. Of course, this will inevitably lead to a reduction in the usable area of ​​the room and an increase in heat loss, but there is no need to rack your brains over how to decorate radiators and heating pipes.

You can go even further and completely abandon radiators and pipes, replacing them with warm floors. If the heating efficiency is insufficient, then you can supplement the heating system with invisible convectors mounted in furniture, window sills, plinth, floor, etc.

Invisible convectors can compete with standard heating systems with pipes and radiators

Masking batteries in the bathroom and kitchen

In the bathroom, it is best to hide radiators in some pieces of furniture. Wall cabinets are best suited for this. If for some reason it is not possible to hide the radiator in a cabinet, then it is better not to resort to making hanging boxes. They will look awkward on the wall. In this case, it is better to simply paint the radiator to match the walls.

As for placing the radiator on the floor, you can limit yourself to installing a screen. MDF and plastic are suitable for making the screen, it can also be glass and chromed metal - these materials combine well with the sterile cleanliness and shine of ceramic tiles.

In the kitchen, radiators are most often hidden under the window sill-countertop. This technique allows you not only to hide the radiator, but also to significantly increase the working surface. If we are talking about a small apartment, then this technique can be considered a significant bonus. Here it is already difficult to argue which aspect is more important - functional or aesthetic.

The functionality of the kitchen is increased by installing an additional work surface in the form of a countertop and cabinet

There is also the option of installing a folding table. In this case, the color of the countertop and the color of the walls should be the same. The disadvantage of this design is the impossibility of making the tabletop structure perforated. Having a gap between the countertop and the floor, as well as between the countertop and the window sill, will help ensure normal convection.

Video examples of work on masking radiators

Assembly and installation of a finished screen for a heating radiator:

Heating radiator painting:

Overview of heating radiator grilles made of decorative glass:

When performing masking using any of the proposed methods, do not forget about the main functional task of the heating battery - heating and heat distribution. Incorrectly chosen material, installation and decoration scheme can increase heat loss several times.

When performing repairs, there will always be several bottlenecks that cause certain difficulties. The space between the radiator and the wall, which also needs to be decorated, will be narrow in the literal sense of the word. Next, we’ll look at how to decorate the walls behind heating radiators with your own hands using improvised means.

Complex option

At the same time, the simplest solution in terms of finishing work, and the most difficult in terms of preparation, will be the solution of removing the heater. Preparation will consist mainly of removing the battery completely. Not every home craftsman will be able to cope with this, and in winter, in the absence of a tap that shuts off the water, this simply becomes impossible. If removing the radiator is not a problem for you, then the repair itself is not difficult - the technology for performing all the work will not differ from the rest of the room.

Therefore, there are only two ways to prepare everything here: remove the heating device yourself or call a technician who will first remove it and then, after some time, install it back. You will need to call it twice - for removal and installation, and this will require additional costs. In this regard, finishing the wall with a battery and removing it is one of the most expensive and difficult ways to repair the surface. It is much easier to make repairs without removing anything.

A simpler approach

The complexity of the work in this case depends on what kind of material needs to be used to decorate the surface. If it is paint, then everything will be very simple - you just need to purchase a special brush with a curved handle or make something like a thin roller yourself by attaching a foam coat to a wire. With other materials it is more difficult, and there are several finishing options:

• Plaster
• Foam
• Tile

The most difficult thing will be with the tiles - they do not bend, it is difficult to push them into the narrow space behind the radiator, and it is even more difficult to align the tiles relative to each other. In addition, you will have to cut grooves in some of the tiles into which the brackets on which the heater hangs will fit. That is why finishing the walls behind the radiator with tiles is usually done with the removal of the heating device.

It is not so difficult to deal with wallpaper and the most important point will be to press the panel tightly to the surface. The cut canvas is smeared with glue, inserted behind the radiator and leveled there using a long brush with a curved handle or other suitable device. It will not be possible to completely remove the bubbles, but in this place they are practically invisible and this moment will not be the most critical. The main thing is to glue the piece of wallpaper well so that it does not come off later.

The panels are also easy to install. They can be fixed with glue or with lathing. In the first case, the work is simple and there is no need to consider it separately. The second case is not so simple. You will have to arm yourself with a screwdriver with a very long blade in order to be able to screw the panels through the heater sections. In addition, finishing the walls behind the heating radiators with panels on the sheathing is possible without removing them only if the panels are arranged vertically. Otherwise, it is almost impossible to install the sheathing. The most difficult case with plaster and it is worth talking about separately.

In addition to all the above methods for decorating the surface behind the radiator, there is another universal option that is not suitable in all cases - decorating the walls behind the radiator with ceiling tiles. It is simply glued to the desired surface, easily inserted into a narrow space. However, this method is not always suitable, since the designed surface will differ from the rest of the space.

Plaster

It is very difficult to apply the solution onto a plane. For the work you will need a thin metal strip, 3 - 5 centimeters wide and 10 - 15 centimeters longer than the radiator. The plaster or putty is diluted a little thicker than usual so that it does not flow off the narrow strip of metal. The solution is applied to the edge of the strip along its entire length, and the strip itself with the applied mixture is passed through the space behind the battery, at an angle of forty-five degrees. The process is very similar to working with the rule - plastering must be done according to the same principle.

When the solution is applied to the entire area behind the heating device, the mixture must be given time to dry, and then, using the same metal strip, sand the surface by attaching sandpaper to it.

Not all surfaces are equally easy to paint - this depends on the location and type of surface. However, difficulties can be overcome by choosing the appropriate method. There are many different devices (such as a combination ladder) that make it easier to access hard-to-reach places and therefore save time.

Not all surfaces are equally easy to paint - this depends on the location and type of surface. However, difficulties can be overcome by choosing the appropriate method. There are many different devices (such as a combination ladder) that make it easier to access hard-to-reach places and therefore save time. For example, you can shield areas that should not be exposed to paint. Try to plan everything in advance and have all the necessary equipment at your disposal.

Painting hard to reach places ( finishing the wall behind the battery)
To paint the wall behind the radiator, it is best, of course, to remove it. But, firstly, only a specialist can do this, and secondly, this is very labor-intensive work. In such cases, use a special radiator roller. Before painting the radiator, make sure it is turned off. It is convenient to paint radiators with spray paint, just do not forget to wear a respiratory mask and protect the wall by inserting it between it and the radiator large leaf cardboard

Some tricks

IN Soviet time, during the construction and decoration of new houses, radiators were hung on the walls without any aesthetic preparation of the latter; in the future, these sections of the walls were either covered with wallpaper or painted as far as could be reached or crawled under the radiator. Today, finishing the wall behind the radiator is an integral part of the repair, and no matter how you are convinced that this place will be covered with a curtain, you should not neglect this operation.

In most cases, finishing the wall behind the battery cannot be done through the installed battery. For this reason, it is necessary to carry out this either before installing new radiators, or to remove the radiators for the duration of the work, having first made marks about the location of the battery, this will help determine the size of the surface to be finished.

Painting and wallpapering behind the radiator are all just temporary finishing options; due to the inaccessibility of cleaning work in these places, sections of walls finished in this way quickly become unusable. We would advise you to pay for the battery tiles, which is practically eternal and undemanding in cleaning.

Finishing the wall behind the battery with tiles
If at the top it is possible to finish both directly to the level of the radiator installation and to the window sill, then at the bottom it is necessary to take into account the floor level and the height of the plinth that will be installed on the floor, because if a tile gets in its way, the baseboard will have to be cut into pieces, plugs installed, etc., which may negatively affect the appearance of the finishing being carried out.
We begin work from the bottom. We beat off the level of the tile and attach a block of the required length to the wall with dowels. Its length should be slightly larger than the area to be finished and have a margin on the right and left sides. After this, you can begin finishing, of course, having previously primed the walls. We apply the solution to the first tile and mount it on the wall, placing it on a block and orienting it along the side mark. Next, the surface of the tile is leveled; if necessary, it must be tamped down in protruding places, or mortar must be added where it is missing. After this, the tile is aligned horizontally; if necessary, special plastic wedges for tiles are inserted between the tile and the block. The next tile is oriented relative to the previous one using mounting crosses for the tile. It is also set on the block using a level and wedges.

Finishing the wall behind the radiator continues in this way right up to the window sill; on the last row, the tiles, if necessary, are cut using a tile cutter in required size. After the tile mortar has dried, the tile joints are grouted. And when it dries, you can begin to install the radiator in place.

Arrangement of space behind heating radiators
I'm old enough panel house. Almost twenty years have passed since its construction. Naturally, during this time, I, to one degree or another, remodeled almost the entire apartment.
The newest ones that have appeared Construction Materials and technology has allowed us to significantly expand the content of the very concept of repair. If earlier we were content with whitewashing and changing wallpaper, today it can only be called a renovation with some stretch.

Take any element of an apartment: floor, walls, ceiling - today the renovation of any of these elements can include a very diverse range of activities. For example, the ceiling, instead of traditional whitewash, came stretch ceiling, two or even three - level. I'm not even talking about ceiling tiles, they have already become so firmly established in our everyday life that they are considered to some extent an outdated solution.

I found another use for ceiling tiles.

The space behind the heating radiators is traditionally the bottleneck of any repair. Even just whitewashing it is quite difficult, gluing wallpaper is also quite inconvenient, and besides, very often the pasted wallpaper flies off. So the battery “shows off” against the background of a poorly furnished wall.

And I covered this space with ordinary ceiling tiles. It turned out to be quite simple to do this - ceiling tiles very well tailored to any configuration of supports for heating radiators. In addition, measuring the location of these supports before gluing the tiles is also very simple - after all, all the tiles have the same dimensions.

The sticker started with ceiling plinth, with which I framed the lower part of the window sill. And I started gluing the tiles from below, in the direction from the balcony door. Thus, the bottom, most clearly visible row turned out to consist of whole tiles. The same applies to the first vertical row from the balcony. I got two rows in total, and the top row even had to be trimmed a little.

I glued the tiles with PVA glue, spreading it over the entire surface. Before applying the sticker, I also coated the walls with glue. The adhesion of the tiles to the wall was good. Quality is time-tested. For more than a year now, the tiles have held up perfectly and have not fallen off.

The space behind the heating radiators arranged in this way began to look very good. From a somewhat whitewashed corner, it turned into a completely ennobled niche. Everyone who saw my innovation rated it positively. This is, of course, just a small touch in the overall decoration of the room, but the touch is quite noticeable. Now in all my rooms the heating niches are arranged in a similar way.

Finishing the wall behind the radiator
It is better to first make a lathing for the lining, then mark the brackets (install the timber) under the battery with the expectation that the lining will take 1 cm of the distance from the radiator to the wall.
In general, for convenient marking, I take a sheet (roll) of thin plastic 1500x600 with me to objects drilled holes coinciding with the mounting locations of the brackets (for aluminum batteries 350-500... up to 20 sections). It takes less than a minute to mark. All you need is a pencil and a level, I recommend it.

Wall cladding in hard-to-reach places

Modern renovation work involves full wall cladding. However, unfortunately, in any apartment, in any house there are places that are difficult to finishing works. This is especially true for the joints of adjacent walls, as well as window niches.

You need to start working with the choice of facing material. It should be remembered that not every finish will look beautiful in the room if there are so-called difficult places. So, the wallpaper in these areas may swell or crack, the tiles may create some unevenness and even sharp corners, and the plaster may delaminate. However, the more knowledgeable a person takes on a job in this matter, the less likely it is to observe all these flaws as a result.

So, finishing adjacent walls. Unfortunately, in modern buildings the corners, as a rule, are not perfectly straight. This makes it very difficult to work towards achieving good looking and quality finishing. However, there are a couple of secrets. The process of tiling is considered the most difficult, since the most problems can arise with this material. The main nuance that should be taken into account is the laying of tiles both externally and externally. inside corner.

To achieve a high-quality result, it is best to work along horizontal guide bars that will be located at the same level. This is necessary in order to avoid discrepancies in both horizontal and vertical tile levels.

When working with window openings, you should first tackle the facing walls. Typically this work is done using solid tiles. Only after this process is completed can you begin finishing the side walls and window sills. In this case, so-called edged tiles are most often used, that is, not solid ones. It is also worth noting that it is advisable to start cladding from the side of the window, and not from the top.

It is also important to remember that in some situations it becomes necessary to make holes or cutouts in the tile itself. Therefore, it is advisable to have on hand necessary tools, such as a tile cutter or file.

When working with tiles good option preliminary calculation work will be performed. Of course, this is very painstaking work, which can take quite a while. a large number of time. However, when making such a calculation, you can save a lot on materials, as well as reduce the duration of the working process with tiles.

So, difficult places in the house are not uncommon, but rather a pattern. Therefore, you should not be afraid of them. You just need to choose the right material, and, if possible, consult with a specialist who will tell you a few secrets. Only then, not even related to construction and repair work the person will cope with this difficult work.

Adviсe

Did you know that?

We bring to your attention several tricks for self-repair

It is easier to hammer a nail into wood if it is rubbed with soap or sunflower oil.
If the screw turns when screwed in, insert glue-covered matches into the hole.
If it is difficult to remove an old and rusty screw, then you need to heat its head with a soldering iron.
Cutting bad smell oil paint can be neutralized by placing several cans of salt water in the room where painting is taking place.
If you insert a magnet into a plastic bathroom stopper, you can attach it in any convenient place.
To avoid moisture condensation on water pipes With cold water and associated leaks in the apartment, you need to wrap the “fogging” sections of the pipes with two or three layers of bandage.
The light bulb “has the habit” of sticking to the socket, and therefore, when unscrewing it, you constantly risk breaking the bulb from the base. Before screwing the light bulb into the socket, rub the thread of the base with the graphite of a soft pencil: the light bulb will come out effortlessly and will get rid of its bad “habit” forever.
A dried glue brush can be easily restored. Unclench the metal clip with a knife, release the hair and insert it with the stuck side back into the clip. Crimp it with pliers, trim the protruding hairs - and the brush will still serve you until you buy a new one.
Don't waste your time gluing wallpaper to walls that have been puttied on alabaster. The wallpaper will come off and the putty will collapse. Before pasting, lightly oil the walls and let them dry.
It will be much easier and faster to coat a parquet floor with varnish if, instead of a brush, you use two rubber sponges clamped in a rag holder. Sponges do not leave streaks, like brushes, and allow you to work while standing, away from the fresh varnish layer, WHERE the concentration of solvent vapor is maximum.
When painting or wallpapering a room, do not open any windows or doors. Draft, moving warm or wet air will inevitably disrupt the uniform drying of the paint and ruin your work.
The ceiling is painted first. Moreover, the last layer of paint or whitewash must be applied with a brush in the direction of the light (towards the window). And the previous one, therefore, is across. Otherwise, no matter how carefully you do the work, brush marks will be visible on the ceiling.
The paint should be applied in a thin layer. Of course, you won’t be able to cover the surface in one go. Paint it a second time (after the first layer has naturally dried). Remember that two or three thin layers of paint are always stronger than one thick one.
Even dried water-based white stains can be easily washed off the floor with vinegar.
Trying to get rid of the persistent smell of kerosene or oil paint that stains your hands with water and soap will not lead to success. But if you add a little dry mustard to the water, your hands will quickly wash and the unpleasant smell will disappear without a trace.
You can remove old whitewash from the ceiling using a metal brush connected to a vacuum cleaner.
A wax-like coating can be obtained by painting the surface with diluted PVA glue. To get the desired color, dilute the glue with water tinted with watercolors.
It is much easier to cut a product of the desired shape from foam rubber if you wet it first.
If stains appear on the wallpaper, don’t worry! Lubricate them with tooth powder soaked in gasoline, and when the powder dries, brush it off the wall; After doing this operation several times, you will be convinced that there is no point in covering the room with new wallpaper.
Aluminium foil, pasted on the wall behind the central heating radiator, will improve the heating of the room by reflecting the thermal radiation of the radiator.
The drill will last longer if, when drilling holes in brick or concrete, it is periodically moistened with water.
Before painting metal furniture, slats, pipes, etc., wipe them with a rag soaked in vinegar and let them dry. After this, the paint will adhere better and will not peel off.
If you keep knives in a weak solution of table salt for half an hour, they sharpen easily and quickly.
When sawing plywood, its surface chips. To get smooth edges, you need to moisten the sheet along the cut line with hot water.
If the tile has lost its shine, wipe it with newsprint soaked in a solution of ammonia.
To make it easier to remove the whitewash layer from the ceiling, you need to thoroughly moisten the ceiling with water and cover it with old newspapers. After drying, the whitewash will come off much easier with the newspapers.
You can drill a hole in the glass (if you don’t have a special drill) with an ordinary unsharpened pencil clamped into a drill. Sprinkle some dry sand on the glass, press the pencil firmly and turn on the drill. This results in a smooth hole.
Dark spots often appear on the bathroom mirror. This can be easily avoided if you lubricate reverse side mirrors with regular window putty. Just remember to remove the mirror from the frame first.
Plaster mixture It will lay down and stay on better if you dilute it not with water, but with wallpaper glue.

Characteristics

Types of wallpaper and their features

Currently, a huge number of wallpapers are produced different types. Let's look at some of the most commonly used in DIY repairs.

1. Paper wallpaper.

The main advantage of this type is its low cost. In addition, walls decorated with breathable paper wallpaper look aesthetically beautiful. The downside is that paper wallpaper gets dirty easily and quickly, and of course you can’t wash it.

2. Vinyl wallpapers

Nowadays this is practically the most used type of wallpaper. Vinyl wallpaper consists of three-layer paper - vinyl. They imitate well such types of finishing as painting, textiles, plaster, etc. They are easy to wash. Another advantage is the inconspicuousness of the joints between the canvases. Vinyl wallpaper hides wall defects quite well. Modern vinyl wallpapers allow air to pass through well, thanks to a special layer. But they are, of course, more expensive than paper ones.

3. Velor wallpaper

Velor wallpaper is made using paper based, onto which tequila fibers are glued. These wallpapers are very beautiful, as they have a pleasant velvety appearance. The disadvantage is that they wear out quickly and that they cannot be used for wet cleaning.

So you have chosen the type of wallpaper and its color, and decided on the number of rolls. Now you can start the actual gluing.

Pasting the walls

It is first necessary to prepare the walls for gluing. There should be no greasy stains, loose plaster, large depressions or protrusions on the walls. All this needs to be cleaned, the depressions should be plastered. The walls must be dry.

Now we close all the windows and doors. When pasting, drafts are not allowed.

After rolling out the roll on the floor, cut off the first panel. Immediately, after matching the pattern, cut off the second one. Remember that you need to leave a margin of about 5 cm (calculation for shrinkage and unevenness of the wall)

Apply glue to the wall and panel using a brush or roller. The glue you use depends on the type of wallpaper. When purchasing wallpaper, it is better to consult the seller about the choice of glue for it.

Wait about five minutes. Now you can glue the strip to the wall.

Gluing the first sheet is the most important moment when wallpapering. You need to glue it strictly vertically. To do this, use a plumb line.

They begin gluing from the top, smoothing the “wallpaper” from top to bottom in the center. Then smooth the panel from the center to the edges. All this is done with a soft brush or clean rag.

Now, according to the drawing, cut the third panel. Stick the second one on the wall. Etc.

The bottom edge of the strips is cut so that only the edge of the baseboard is covered.

After the room is pasted around the perimeter, the upper edge of the wallpaper is covered with a special edge, matched to the color of the wallpaper or with a ceiling plinth.

Some tips

Do not wallpaper behind radiators. In this place it is better to finish the wall by painting, since a lot of dust accumulates behind the batteries, and removing it from there is quite problematic.

Sockets are a rather difficult place to paste. Glue the strip as usual, then make two diagonal cuts in the area of ​​the rosette, peel back the wallpaper and cut it to the shape of the rosette. Same with switches.

Near door and window openings, wallpaper is glued with a margin of 5 cm. Then it is cut at an angle of 45 degrees and glued to the edge of the opening. The excess is cut off.

How to get rid of mold?

Among modern construction and finishing materials, there are practically none that cannot be affected by mold. Microscopic spores are present everywhere, and as soon as they find themselves in a favorable environment (humidity more than 70% and temperature not lower than 15 degrees), they immediately begin to grow. Mold can cause any disease, from allergies to cancer.

Reasons for appearance

Conventional physical mold removal can only provide temporary results. In order to get rid of mold on the walls once and for all, you first need to determine the reasons for its appearance.

Most often, the occurrence of fungus is observed in rooms with high humidity - in corner rooms, in bathrooms, in basements, when the roof leaks. For a long time now, black mold has taken a liking to panels with leaky interpanel joints.

Mold control

If mold stains have already appeared, you can remove mold from the walls using special antiseptic agents, which are present in great abundance on the shelves of building materials stores. Any product for removing mold on walls is, first of all, poison. Therefore, you need to be extremely careful when working with such products. Before starting, it is advisable to carefully study the instructions for use.

Plastic windows

In autumn and winter, windows cry because they are exposed to cold from the outside and heat from the room. At the same time, any increase in temperature and humidity in the room causes a “tearful” reaction of the windows.

Thanks to the good insulation of modern plastic windows Air exchange between the apartment and the street becomes almost impossible. But such insulation is effective in combating cold, noise and insects. However, without air exchange, the humidity in the apartment increases and the air stagnates. Therefore, it is necessary to ventilate the room to eliminate excess humidity, which can lead to fogging of the glass unit and the appearance of damp spots. And to create favorable climate The house should be regularly ventilated.

* ventilate the rooms at least once a day (opening the window for 10-15 minutes)

* if the humidity is high, it is necessary to ventilate the room more intensively. Room humidity should not exceed 30%

* rooms should be well heated. And the window sills should cover the batteries no more than 2/3. Or be equipped with openings for access of warm air to the windows

Step-by-step instruction

* dismantle wallpaper from affected areas

* use a special spatula to remove the layer of putty and plaster where it has become soft and loose due to mold

* thoroughly clean the affected area of ​​the wall

* we treat the affected areas, as well as the entire surface of the wall, with a special solution (to prevent the appearance of mold)

* it is necessary to re-treat the solution after 4-5 hours

* we prime the wall with an antiseptic solution

With your own hands

WALL FINISHING WITH FABRIC.

decorating walls with fabric with your own hands Decorating walls with fabric is bringing back unfairly lost popularity. In fact, our great-great-grandmothers knew a lot about organizing an interior, which became significantly more comfortable after decorating the walls with fabrics. Damasks, tapestries, jacquard fabrics - everything served one purpose - to create a cozy and harmonious composition.

It's hard to argue because everything is true, until last word. The fabric really makes the room feel homely and comfortable, and at the same time, somehow especially solemn. Let's say a few words about whether it is possible to decorate walls with fabric yourself.
Quite possible! However, to implement daring plans you will need to make some efforts.

Important:
1 - choose the right fabric. In principle, any one will suit you, but natural ones, with high-quality prints (or without them), a small pattern step and not overly stretched are preferable.

2 - Decide on the method of attaching the fabric to the wall. If you have perfectly smooth walls sewn into plasterboard, then you can easily nail the fabric without first creating complex structures. (Please note that the distance between the nails should not exceed 25 cm, otherwise the fabric will look bad and sag over time). If your walls leave much to be desired, then you can, without much processing, stretch the fabric onto a specially created frame, leaving the door and window openings uncovered.

3 - If you chose the second option in the previous paragraph, then consider several important points. Firstly, there is no need to try to form frames for the entire wall, since the fabric can sag, not stretch enough, deform the frame and be difficult to attach to the wall. Secondly, when choosing slats for the frame, avoid those that have rounded corners.

By itself, such a frame looks normal, but when joined to adjacent canvases it will form a too noticeable joint. Thirdly, if your plans include upholstering the walls with leather, then the frames need to be created smaller than for upholstering the walls with fabric. This is not only more practical, but also much more aesthetically pleasing.

4 - Find out if additional processing of the fabric is necessary. The latter is carried out to strengthen the material, prevent its premature fading, facilitate care and even enhance the brightness of the design. Today, most often we find already processed materials, which makes covering walls with fabric much easier and faster.

Prices / Order

Name of works	Unit.	Price rub
Construction of openings for doors, arches, etc.: in brick (1/2 brick)	m²	2300
Construction of an opening in 14 cm thick reinforced concrete	m²	4000
Construction of an opening in 18 cm thick reinforced concrete	m²	5000
Brickwork in 1/4 brick	m²	580
Brickwork in 1/2 brick	m²	740
Brickwork in 1 brick	m²	1100
Display of beacons	m/n	35
Installation of plaster mesh on the wall	m²	50
Plastering brickwork up to 3 cm	m²	530
Plastering brickwork over 3 cm in several stages	m²	690
Plastering wooden walls with pre-upholstery with shingles or mesh	m²	620
Plaster concrete walls up to 3 cm	m²	530
Plastering concrete walls from 3 to 6 cm	m²	690
Plastering concrete walls from 6 cm to 8 cm	m²	750
Plastering walls of non-flat shapes (semicircular, elliptical and other shapes)	m²	900
Plastering door slopes up to 30 cm	m/n	400
Plastering door slopes from 30 to 60 cm	m/n	450
Plastering window slopes up to 30 cm wide	m/n	380
Plastering window slopes from 30 to 60 cm wide	m/n	450
Plastering arched slopes	m/n	600
Gluing rusts and joints of slabs with serpyanka	m/n	80
Gluing walls with reinforcing mesh	m²	100
Prime the walls after each cycle of work	m²	50
Sealing seams on drywall	m²	200
Putty for painting	m²	550
Wall putty for wallpaper (vinyl)	m²	350
Gluing walls with cork soundproofing material for painting work	m²	280
Gluing walls with decorative cork soundproofing material for concrete	m²	340
Pasting with glass wallpaper	m²	300
Pasting regular wallpaper (vinyl, paper)	m²	280
Pasting with embossed wallpaper	m²	320
Pasting with textile wallpaper	m²	380
Wallpapering in two levels	m²	300
Wallpapering border	m/n	80
Spray painting	m²	280
Wall covering with wall panels	m²	460
Wall covering with polystyrene panels	m²	440
Wall cladding with brick or stone tiles (on a prepared surface)	m²	950
Facing arches with corner tiles	m/n	950
Cladding with ceramic wall tiles: one pattern, with “decors” (on the prepared surface)	m²	1300
Installing a curb	m/n	250
Tiling over 38*28 cm	m²	1200
Tiling size 10*10	m²	1000
Tiling (mosaic)	m²	1500
Washed down the ends of ceramic tiles (porcelain tiles) at 45 degrees	m/n	350
Cutting ceramic tiles (porcelain tiles) according to patterns (cutting on one side)	m/n	400
Cladding with reinforced tile panels	m²	1400
Cutting holes in tiles	PC	150
Grouting joints	m²	80
Installing a protective paint corner	m/n	60
Installation of decorative (protective) plastic corners	m/n	80
Installation of decorative (protective) wooden corners, sanding and varnishing	m/n	260
Laying glass block partitions and windows	PC	340
Installation of plasterboard partitions with preliminary production of the frame in one layer	m²	from 650
Installation of plasterboard partitions with preliminary production of the frame in two layers	m²	from 950
Installation of drywall on a wall with pre-sheathing of the wall	m²	from 600
Installation of drywall on the wall in two layers	m²	from 700
Insulation with mineral wool	m²	100

Firms

How to choose materials for interior decoration of a house

After the construction of the house, the final step is always the interior decoration. Upon completion, the home is finally...

In this article we will not consider issues related to design - this is a separate big topic, but we will analyze the most common materials used for interior decoration walls, and installation technologies for these materials.

Lining
It can be wooden or plastic. The advantage of wooden lining is that it is environmentally friendly, vapor permeable and easy to install. Sheathed wooden clapboard the room looks warm and cozy. Disadvantages - it requires painting or impregnation and is relatively expensive.

Wooden lining comes in several grades (highest, 1st and 2nd) and, accordingly, has different price. When purchasing, check the boards for curl, the presence of black fallen knots, evenness, and integrity of the tenon and groove. Typically, lining is produced in the form of boards of standard length - 2, 3 or 6 m, the so-called modules. If the length of the wall is more than 6 m, then most likely you will have to make a gap, which can then be closed with a strip.

Also, when choosing a lining, you need to make sure that it is well dried. This is a mandatory condition, otherwise, over time, as a result of shrinkage, the boards at the joints may separate, up to the appearance of through cracks.

Plastic lining (PVC) is more durable and cheaper than wooden lining and does not require additional processing, but, alas, it is less environmentally friendly (it is plastic after all) and, accordingly, is less suitable for interior decoration.

Any lining is fastened to a special sheathing frame, which can be part of the wall or attached to the surface of the finished wall.

For example, if the lining board is in panel house is mounted horizontally, then you only need to “strengthen” our main frame by adding additional vertical posts made of boards 100✕50 mm or 150✕25 mm, in order to ensure a step between them of no more than 70 cm. For a brick, log or timber house, it is enough will fix vertical bars of 50✕50 mm on the walls (set by level) with the same step of 70 cm and, using pads, place them in the same plane. If the span between the elements of the fastening frame is made larger, then deformation of the installed lining is possible - deflection of the boards and their twisting.

If the lining is sewn vertically, then it is necessary to install additional horizontal sheathing, for example, from a 150✕25 board - in the case of a panel house, or the same board or beam 50x50 horizontally along the walls with a step of 70 cm - in the case of a log house, timber and stone house.

When positioned horizontally, we start sheathing from the bottom. The bottom board is installed on the frame with the tenon facing up, adjusted strictly to the level and secured. The next board is placed with a groove on the tenon of the previous board. The tenon does not always fit into the groove easily. This may be hampered by manufacturing defects or deformations from improper drying. Typically, the longer the board, the more difficult it is to “put” it evenly and tightly onto the one below. Therefore, the lining is usually “settled” - finished off through a wooden spacer in those places where a gap occurs.

Then the board is secured. Usually they use nails, driving them into the base of the tenon, but not perpendicular to the surface, but with a slight slope. Then the next board will cover the head with its groove and the wall will be “clean”. It is preferable to use galvanized nails with a reduced head 50–60 mm long.

You can also fasten the lining using clamps - specially shaped steel strips. They are put on the clapboard tenon and secured to the wall with nails or self-tapping screws. The point of using clamps is the same - to get a “clean” wall.

The horizontalness is checked with a level every 2–3 boards. It is necessary to achieve the tightest possible fit, since over time, as the wood dries out, the gaps between the boards will increase noticeably.

Vertical cladding is done in the same way, with the exception that the boards should be installed perpendicular to the floor.

Plywood
For internal lining, sanded material is usually used. moisture resistant plywood thickness of at least 8 mm. It is installed on a frame similar to the frame for installing lining with a step between elements of 60 cm. The joints between the plywood sheets are covered with flashings, finished wall covered with varnish or paint. The decorative qualities of plywood are low, so this finish is used mainly for utility rooms or serves as a basis for wallpapering.

Plaster
This type of work is usually carried out on stone walls, e.g. brickwork or surfaces of wall blocks. For ease of application, as well as reliable fastening of the plaster layer, plaster meshes are often pre-installed. The optimal thickness of the plaster layer is 1–2 cm. Plastering walls is a complex job that requires a certain skill, so we recommend entrusting this work to professionals - you will save time and effort.

A separate class is plasters with a top (front) textured layer. Textured plaster contains particles of a given size, for example small stones or plastic balls up to 3 mm in size. When applying textured plaster, a certain texture and pattern is formed.

To apply such plaster, a smooth “base” is required - as a rule, this is a layer of ordinary plaster or any other Smooth surface. A special reinforcing mesh is glued onto such a base. To Work with textured plasters even more difficult than with ordinary ones - as a rule, this requires taking a special training course.

Decorative panels
Such panels are expensive finishing material, but this is a real find for the designer. They are very beautiful, environmentally friendly and easy to install. They are commercially available in elements of various shapes, lengths and widths. The market offers solid panels made from various types of wood, chipboard covered with veneer, and plastic of the most varied textures, including stone-like, granite-like, and marble-like. We can also include ceramic panels as decorative panels. wall tiles, porcelain tiles and so on.

For installation decorative panels A flat, smooth surface is required; in this embodiment, they can be installed with glue. If the walls are uneven and not covered with a leveling layer, for example, plaster, then a lathing frame is needed to attach the panels. The pitch and location of the frame elements are selected based on the size and shape of the decorative panels.

Drywall, gypsum fiber
These are panels of different sizes, 9–12 mm thick, filled with gypsum, covered on both sides with special cardboard or fiberglass. Their use allows you to get minimum costs smooth walls of light weight. In addition, gypsum fiber has an increased fire resistance.

You can install plasterboard panels yourself. The basis for installation is a frame made of light metal profiles, less often wooden blocks. The metal profile frame includes rack profile, ceiling profile, connecting profiles, etc. To connect individual elements metal frame Standard connecting parts are provided - crosses, extensions, as well as brackets for fastening to walls.

The frame is installed as follows: in the plane of the future wall, a rack profile is placed vertically in a level with a pitch of 60 cm and attached to the floor and ceiling. Horizontal profiles are “cut” into it and fixed with self-tapping screws. The pitch of the horizontal profiles is 60 cm. To further strengthen the structure, whenever possible, the frame is attached to the rough walls using brackets.

Drywall panels are mounted on a finished frame using self-tapping screws. The joints of the panels are sealed with a special tape, after which the entire surface is puttied, primed, and then painted or wallpapered.

In what cases does it make sense to use plasterboard walls?

● When it is necessary to hide defects in an existing wall with a curved or untreated surface, with which nothing can be done.

● If you need to mount a partition that does not load the structures located below, since plasterboard partitions are very light.

● If necessary, perform complex design solution with a large number of shaped elements, complex surfaces, protrusions, niches, etc.

Finishing touches on the wall
After the main surface of the wall is covered, all that remains is to install the final finishing elements. These include corners, baseboards, platbands, flashings, etc. These elements, in addition to their main function - hiding joint errors - give the room a finished look. There is a wide variety of such elements on the market, from the most different materials and for every taste. Finding something to realize any design ideas will not be difficult.

In the recent past, during the construction and decoration of new houses, radiators were hung on the walls without any aesthetic preparation of the latter; in the future, these sections of the walls were either wallpapered or painted, as far as one could reach or crawl under the radiator. Today, finishing the wall behind the battery is an integral part of the repair, and this operation should not be neglected.

In most cases, finishing the wall behind the battery cannot be done through the installed battery. For this reason, it is necessary to perform it either before installing new radiators, or to remove the radiators while the work is being carried out, having first made marks about the location of the battery, this will help determine the size of the surface to be finished.

Painting and wallpapering behind the radiator are only temporary finishing options; due to the inaccessibility of cleaning in these places, sections of walls finished in this way quickly become unusable. In any case, over time, changes are possible in this place that will not occur on other surfaces, since the temperatures here are high. Experts recommend laying ceramic tiles behind the radiator, which are durable and easy to clean.

Reasons for:
- tiles can be washed without fear of damage
- no fungus
- aesthetically pleasing and beautiful
- heat from the battery does not go into the wall, but is reflected into the room, which means savings on heating costs.

To work you will need
Materials: ceramic tiles, plaster, corner/profile, battery, battery hooks.
Tools: spatula, sandpaper, drill.

The first thing to do is prepare the surface. We get rid of old batteries, wallpaper, “breathing” parts on the wall.

If at the top it is possible to finish both directly to the level of the radiator installation and to the window sill, then at the bottom it is necessary to take into account the floor level and the height of the plinth that will be installed on the floor, because if a tile gets in its way, the baseboard will have to be cut into pieces, plugs installed, etc., which may negatively affect the appearance of the finish.

We start work from the bottom. We beat off the level of the tile and attach a block of the required length to the wall with dowels. Its length should be slightly larger than the area to be finished and have a margin on the right and left sides. After this, you can begin finishing, having previously primed the walls. We apply the solution to the first tile and mount it on the wall, placing it on a block and orienting it along the side mark.

Next, the surface of the tile is leveled; if necessary, it must be tamped down in protruding places, or mortar must be added where it is missing. After this, the tile is aligned horizontally; if necessary, special plastic wedges for tiles are inserted between the tile and the block. The next tile is oriented relative to the previous one using mounting crosses for the tile. It is also set on the block using a level and wedges.

The finishing of the wall behind the battery continues in this way all the way to the window sill. On the last row, the tiles, if necessary, are cut using a tile cutter to the desired size. After the tile mortar has dried, the tile joints are grouted with a special antifungal putty (we match the color to the tile). When it is dry, you can begin to install the radiator in place.