Metal frame for drywall: advantages, disadvantages, basic principles of installation. Do-it-yourself repairs - how to make a frame from a profile How to mount a frame under drywall

When answering the question of how to make a frame for drywall, it is necessary to clarify on what surface this material will be laid. Everyone knows that plasterboard sheets can be used to decorate both the ceiling and walls. In this article we will consider laying drywall on the wall, or rather, we will consider installing a frame for the walls.

I would like to draw your attention to the material from which this design can be manufactured. This is a metal profile or wooden beam. The second, although it has been used for a long time, has already lost its position in many respects. So, when choosing a material, you must give preference to the first.

General rules and regulations of the installation process

Like any construction and repair process, the installation of a frame for drywall is divided into several stages, which, according to all canons, must be strictly observed. Experts believe that even a slight deviation from the sequence of the process can affect the quality of the finished wall.

Stage No. 1 – preparatory

First of all, you need to prepare all the tools and materials. This is important so that during the installation process you do not get distracted by the lack of one or the other.

Therefore, we prepare the tools:

• perforator;
• screwdriver;
• plumb line;
• level;
• roulette;
• metal scissors.

Now let's prepare the materials:

• profiles PS 50/50 and PP 60/27;
• direct suspension;
• self-tapping screws;
• drywall, at least twelve millimeters thick.

Attention!
Not everyone believes that the base surface of the wall must be brought to a certain state of quality (strength).
But it needs to be done. Therefore, it is best to repair detected defects with a putty solution and treat the entire surface with a primer.

Related articles:

Stage No. 2 - marking

So, the question of how to properly make a frame for drywall has been raised. And the second stage in this process occupies one of the important places. Properly done marking is fifty percent of the successful completion of installation work.

Where does this stage begin? First of all, it is necessary to determine the difference in the wall surface. It is this indicator that will determine at what distance from the surface the structure will be mounted. Experts believe that this distance should not exceed ten centimeters.

How to make a frame for a plasterboard wall - markings

Now markings are being made on the floor for installation rack profile. To do this, you will need a level with which this element needs to be aligned in the horizontal plane.

It should be noted that sexual base must be already prepared, that is, leveled with a screed. Fastening to the floor is done with self-tapping screws every 30-40 centimeters.

And now it's very important point. It is necessary to hang a plumb line from the ceiling to the floor along the edges of the profile laid on the floor. And make two marks on the ceiling surface, and ideally, make exactly the same mark in the center.

These are three points that should be in one line. They determine the location of the profile on the ceiling. We fasten it with the same self-tapping screws, the distance between which is determined by the range of 30-40 centimeters. All that remains is to install the vertical posts and attach them to the adjacent walls.

Stage No. 3 – marking on the wall and installing the PP

The marking is based on the dimensions of the plasterboard sheet - 120x300 cm. Usually it is installed vertically, so the profiles under it are also placed in a vertical plane.

For each sheet you need to install three profiles:

• two will be located under the edges of the sheet;
• one is in the middle.

If the material is thick, then for structural strength, intermediate elements can be installed every 40 cm.

For ease of work, markings using a plumb line are made on the wall itself, along which direct hangers are installed every 40-50 cm. They are attached to the surface with self-tapping screws.

Now installing the profiles themselves will not be difficult. As you can see, the question of how to properly make a drywall frame with your own hands is not so complicated.

Advice!
It will be difficult for beginners to immediately, without preparation, install PP profiles in one plane. Experience is needed here.
Therefore, we recommend stretching three or four threads horizontally between two vertically standing PS elements. This will be a guide.

You can see how to make a frame for drywall on this page of the site, where we specifically placed a video. Let it be for you as instructions for use. Happy renovation!

Frame for the corner of the room

The process described above is simple, that's obvious. But in any room there are difficult places where you have to take into account useful tips from specialists.

For example, the question is how to properly frame corners for drywall.

• First, we note that there are internal and external angles.
• Secondly, the assembly technology is different for each type of angle.

Frame for inner corner

If the metal frame for drywall for one wall is already ready, then install the PS on adjacent wall does not seem possible. Therefore, the basis for the new design is a PS profile installed on the wall.

It is to this that the PS stand is attached with self-tapping screws. For the strength and rigidity of the structure, experts recommend using self-tapping screws 9.5 mm long, which should be installed every 30 cm.

How to properly make a frame corner for drywall - an internal corner

Please note that the two profiles should only be fixed in a straight plane. Here it is necessary to take into account the fact that both elements are connected to each other on one side by the front part, on the other by the side.

Frame for external corner

This design is simpler; there is no need to connect two profiles. Simply, PSs are installed on each side of the corner, which are attached to the wall, as well as to profiles installed on the floor and ceiling. The design turns out to be quite durable.

Semicircular frame

The semicircular design is usually used:

• during the construction of an arch;
• when rounding the corners of a room;
• when creating multi-level ceilings;
• when creating design elements (openings, wall edges, niches, etc.).

Therefore, the question of how to make a frame for drywall with a semicircle is quite relevant today.

For any of these designs, you can use ready-made elements or make them with my own hands, from PN profile.

• In the first case, you just need to choose the exact length and fold the element along the required circumference.
• In the second case, the profile must be prepared. That is, use metal scissors to cut it along the side walls, cutting out wedges at the corners of which it will bend well. It is already easy to give the necessary shape from such an element.

Conclusion on the topic

How to make a drywall frame for a wall? We tried to answer this question in detail by posting a video and photos. Of course, the quality of the result will depend on your experience and the correct implementation of all stages of the work. But the price this issue will largely depend on what materials you used. Experts advise - buy quality ones.

Without right assembled frame drywall will not last long. The strength and reliability of walls, ceilings, arches, shelves and other structures made of gypsum plasterboard, so beloved by professional builders and amateurs, depends on the frame.

To ensure that the repair does not turn out to be a trivial waste of money, competent implementation of the recommendations and advice of the experts on installing the frame is required.

Today, two methods of installing drywall using a frame are used - on a wooden beam and a metal profile. Each of them has advantages and disadvantages, but the right approach Using both methods, the desired end result is achieved.

Repair using gypsum plasterboard

Timber is selected for work when there is excess wood good quality. Although it is believed that a frame made from it is cheaper, in reality this is not entirely true - wood becomes more expensive every year.

Timber as a material for a frame under plasterboard is used in rooms with moderate humidity and normal temperature conditions. It is dried well, and installation begins after treatment with an antiseptic. In this regard, the profile is more advantageous: it does not rot, it will not be beaten by shashel, it is not afraid of temperature changes, it will not get wet, crack or dry out.

A sheet of plasterboard on a frame made of timber holds tighter, since the screws cling to the wood with all the threads and fit more tightly. The profile version loses a little in this regard, but the issue can be resolved by installing self-tapping screws more often.

A timber frame is environmentally friendly, but a metal profile frame is durable, easier to install, and the material for it can be purchased at any store. At the same time, elements of frame structures are offered in an assortment. You don’t have to invent your own - everything is standard.

Tools for constructing frames

When planning a frame made of wooden slats, prepare the following tools:

• Saw.
• Jigsaw.
• Hammer.
• Screws and nails.
• Reiki - timber.
• Metal corner.

If the frame is made of a profile, then find scissors or a hacksaw. In any case, you cannot do without a level, plumb line, or rules. In addition, you will need:

• Screwdriver;
• Dowels;
• Drill or hammer drill;
• Self-tapping screws for metal;
• Sealing tape;
• Pencil or marker;
• Connectors of different types;
• Suspensions;
• Profiles.

Installation of a wooden frame under gypsum boards

The cross-section of the beam must be no less than 40 by 70 mm for vertical and support slats and 30 by 50 mm for horizontal ones. Wood moisture content does not exceed 15%. The preferred choice of material is coniferous wood.

Work begins with a sketch of a diagram indicating the location of door and window openings. Then count required amount sheets of plasterboard, after which they begin to install the support beams of the sheathing to the floor and ceiling.

Installation begins from the floor using dowels or nails if the house is wooden. The next stage is the installation of vertical struts, between which horizontal ones are then mounted. Vertical posts are installed in increments of 60 cm.

Horizontal ones are nailed on top of the vertical posts, then vertical ones again, and so on. Horizontal ones are also placed in increments of 60 cm. Each row of sheathing is checked for verticality and plane with a level. Level the position of the lower beam on the floor by placing pieces of wood. Also regulated correct position wall plane.

It’s easier to immediately assemble the frame directly on the floor of the room, if its size allows. In this case, its width should be 1 cm less than the actual width of the wall.

Metal frame elements

The basis is profiles - guides (UD) and carriers (CD). The first ones are needed to create the outline of the frame for drywall. They play the role of a “foundation” into which the supporting profile is inserted and fastened, into which the gypsum board is already placed.

The guide profile is standard with a width of 2.5 cm and a length of 3 meters. It is important to pay attention to its thickness - the strength of the frame depends on it. The thicker one is suitable for walls, and the thinner one is suitable for ceilings. The supporting profile has a wide shelf (6 cm), a depth of 2.5 cm and a length of 3 or 4 meters. Issued from sheet metal of different thicknesses, which also affects the strength of the structures being constructed.

The rack profile is used only for the wall frame. Ceiling, corner and arched profiles are used in the construction of corresponding plasterboard structures. Arched with cutouts for easy bending. The width of these profiles varies from 5 to 15 cm.

The main types of self-tapping screws used in assembling frame structures are fasteners with a length of 9.5 mm (“fleas” - with sharp tips), 25 and 35 mm. It is recommended to take galvanized steel, that is, white.

Suspensions are used straight - U-shaped. They are also chosen with galvanization. There is also a so-called quick suspension. The design of this element allows you to adjust the height of the ceiling plane. Used exclusively when installing ceiling frames.

The connecting element is a “crab” or cross-shaped connector. It is used to connect transversely located profiles (crosswise). A straight connector is used to extend the rail.

Installation of a metal frame under gypsum boards

They start with markings. First, the position lines of the supporting profile on the floor and ceiling are determined and drawn. For this it is better to use a laser level. The lines are spaced from the load-bearing surfaces by approximately 10 cm. The value depends on the thickness of the profile, sheet of drywall, communications, thermal insulation and curvature of the walls.

Now install the guide profiles. They are fastened with dowels in increments of no more than a meter. Next, mark the position of the supporting profiles on the wall. They are located every 60 cm.

If increased rigidity is needed, then the installation step should be reduced to 40 cm.

After this, hangers are installed. They start from the floor at a height of 15 cm and then upward in increments of no more than 1 m. Masters advise placing them every 60 cm. A standard wall 2.5 m high will require three or four hangers. They are also fastened with dowels, preferably with a size of 6x60 mm. Next, insert the vertical posts into the guides and secure them with small self-tapping screws (9.5 mm).

In the video you can see the option of assembling the frame for gypsum boards:

The next step is to tighten the thread, which will show how much each rack profile is extended or recessed into the plane. The threads are stretched between the outer posts at the level of the suspensions. It is necessary to adjust the position of the vertical profiles relative to the thread and screw them to the hangers. After this, the plane is checked using the two-meter rule.

The installation is completed by installing horizontal jumpers. They can be made from a rack profile. Start installation from the bottom. The first one should be 25 cm from the floor, the subsequent ones should be every 40-60 cm. During the installation process, the ears of the connecting “crabs” are immediately bent and screwed to the profile.

The frame is ready. Now they begin to install the slabs, then prepare them for finishing and cladding. The process is simple, but requires attention to detail and meticulousness. Only then will design ideas not be wasted. Whichever option you choose: or metal, the main thing is to perform the installation carefully and slowly to set it level.

In contact with

Assembling the frame for ceiling structure from plasterboard boards is a responsible process, which requires special care, since the strength of the created coating and its appearance.

What is a frame and its purpose

One of the popular finishing materials Drywall sheets are considered to be used to decorate the ceiling surface. How attractive the appearance of the structure is and its durability depends on the correct design and assembly of the gypsum plasterboard ceiling frame under a concrete or wood floor.

If errors and miscalculations are made during its arrangement due to ignorance or inattention, the entire work has to be redone completely. Therefore, it is so important to know how to assemble a frame, which is a load-bearing structure assembled from linear elements such as a steel profile or a wooden beam.

It is designed to hold plasterboard sheets under the ceiling base, since there is no other way to secure them. In addition, the frame serves to level ceilings, the surface of which is usually far from flat in apartments. This drawback can be corrected by installing a suspension system made of profiles and gypsum boards.

Another task of installing a frame under plasterboard on the ceiling is to create space for laying electrical wiring for lamps built into the covering material.

Types of frames for drywall

The classification of drywall frames is influenced by several criteria:

• material used;
• number of tiers;

Depending on the materials used to construct the frame for plasterboard on the ceiling, it can be:

1. Wooden. To make it, timber is used. Such a structure is built infrequently, since it turns out to be expensive and at the same time does not have sufficient strength and durability, and is also susceptible to high humidity. In addition, wooden beams should be subjected to mandatory treatment with antiseptics - protection against rotting and bacteria, and with a fire retardant - a means of preventing fire. The main advantage of this design is its environmental friendliness.
2. Metal. To assemble it, you will need several types of profiles. Metal elements are cheaper, stronger and more durable. Today, the technology for installing a frame made of a metal profile on the ceiling has been fully developed; this process is simple and not too labor-intensive. If assembly is planned in a room with high level humidity, then it is preferable to use galvanized products.

At the same time, frames made of metal profiles are divided into:

1. Cellular. They consist of linearly arranged elements and jumpers, which are installed between them perpendicularly and at equal intervals. The frames received this name because the profiles and lintels form cells of the same size in them, rectangular or square.
2. Transverse. In this case, the frame is assembled from transversely installed metal profiles, which are fixed in guides. On transverse system Less materials are needed than for a cellular structure. At the same time, the process of creating such a frame at the design and marking stage requires more accuracy.

The frame, depending on the number of tiers, is:

1. Single-level. During its construction wooden beams or the profiles are placed in a single horizontal plane, resulting in the formation of an even plasterboard ceiling, which has the same height throughout.
2. Multi-level. This plasterboard ceiling frame is assembled when arranging several tiers and to create smooth contours and complex shapes. It is also used to assemble a multi-level ceiling structure, where the cladding material is attached around the perimeter of the walls, and placed in the center stretch fabric made of fabric or polyvinyl chloride.

A variety of profiles for assembling frames on the ceiling

To build a frame for a gypsum board ceiling you will need:

• profiles;
• suspensions and connecting elements;
• fasteners.

When creating a suspended structure, metal profiles of different sizes are used. If the design of the ceiling surface will be carried out in rooms with constant increased level humidity, this is usually the bathroom, toilet and kitchen, then you need to use galvanized products, since they are more resistant to corrosive processes. A similar profile ceiling frame will last much longer and its higher price will be justified.

A profile is a long product made from a sheet of metal coated with zinc. Its dimensions and cross-sectional size depend on the tasks it needs to perform in the frame design.

The components used are divided into several categories:

1. Ceiling profile (PP or CD). It has a U-shape in cross-section, a width of 60 and a height of 27 millimeters. There are grooves on the profile flange, giving it increased strength and the required rigidity. It is the main element of a plasterboard frame ceiling, since sheets of finishing material are attached to it.
2. Ceiling guide profile ( letter designation PNP or UD). It has a similar cross-section, but different parameters - its height is 28 and width is 27 millimeters. A profile of this type is attached along the perimeter of the room under the ceiling. Performs a guiding function for PP profiles. It has ready-made holes for fasteners.
3. The arched profile is abbreviated as PA. It is used to assemble frames of a curvilinear shape, for example, wavy. PA is usually used when it is necessary to create a multi-tiered plasterboard structure. The height of the product is 60 millimeters and the width is 27 millimeters. This profile does not have longitudinal stiffeners.
4. Corner profile (PU). This is an element small size with numerous holes. It is used to give corners additional strength and ensure precise compliance with their dimensions.

It is important to distinguish between PNP and a conventional guide profile (PN). The latest products are used for assembling frames for furnishing plasterboard partitions and wall decoration using this material.

Suspensions and connecting elements

The profiles act as beams; they must not only be attached to the ceiling, but also connected to each other, otherwise they are useless. Suspensions and connectors ensure the assembly of a frame for plasterboard from a metal profile on the ceiling.

Next in importance after profiles is the U-shaped suspension; it is a bracket made of rolled steel, the width of which is 27 and the height is 60 millimeters. Its width is similar to the width of the PP profile.

Along the entire length of the “legs” of the suspension there is a large number of paired holes located at equal intervals. On the base of this element there are mounting holes for fixing anchor bolts on concrete floors and self-tapping screws on a wooden base.

It is the hangers for the metal profile frame on the ceiling that bear the greatest load, so experts do not recommend saving money on their use.

The function that connectors must perform is clear from their name. They are used to connect profiles in a certain position to each other.

Manufacturers produce many different connectors:

1. Longitudinal. Intended for connecting PCBs to each other. Using this type of connector, you can create structures of greater length than this parameter for one profile, if it is not enough.
2. Angular. It is a section of a profile that has a cut in the center and a bend in the same place. Such an element is used to connect PP at different angles - acute, obtuse, straight, which depends on the structural features of the ceiling frame made of a plasterboard profile.
3. T-shaped. This product is necessary for joining adjacent profiles. It is permissible not only for the perpendicular arrangement of the PP and the T-shaped connecting product, but also at an angle of different sizes, since this element has bends.
4. Crab type element. It provides the connection of three to four ceiling profiles with each other at the same level or crosswise.
5. Two-level connector. It is intended to perform the same task as for the “crab”, but the profiles in it are located one above the other.

When calculating the required amount of materials, you should remember that profiles, hangers and connecting elements must be purchased with a margin of 10 - 20%. Having a reserve allows you to immediately replace a damaged or defective product.

Fasteners for metal profile frames

To assemble a frame from a profile for plasterboard on the ceiling, all its elements must be fastened together. When constructing a suspended ceiling structure from fasteners, self-tapping screws, also called self-tapping screws, are mainly used.

To connect profiles to each other, use:

• self-tapping piercing screws – brands LN9, LN9.5, LN12, etc.;
• drilling screws – brands LB9, LB11, LB16, etc.

The number after literal meaning, indicates the length of the screws in millimeters. The diameter of fasteners for metal profiles is usually 3.5 millimeters.

On sale there is a variety of such elements with a thin cap. Such fasteners are intended for use when you need to screw in a self-tapping screw in a place to which gypsum boards will subsequently be attached.

Suspensions and a frame made of metal profiles are attached to the ceiling using dowels or screws, depending on the material from which the rough base is made. If the suspended structure is installed in wooden house, then they use self-tapping screws, which are much larger than the “bugs” connecting its elements.

Design and calculations

The initial stage of creating a ceiling from a metal profile consists of designing it and carrying out the appropriate calculations. To do this, you need to prepare several sheets of paper, a square, a ruler, a pencil and a pen.

To take measurements indoors, you will need a ruler and a laser or hydraulic level. To divide the ceiling surface into sections and mark it, you need a marker and a special tapping thread.

The work is performed in a certain sequence:

1. Measure the length of each wall of the room. Even in rectangular rooms opposite sides have different sizes. Visually this may not be noticeable, but for marking a suspended ceiling structure this circumstance is of no small importance.
2. Distances are measured from floor to ceiling in each corner, in the middle of each wall and in the center of the room.
3. Find the angle with the smallest height based on the data that was obtained earlier. At this point, the distance from the ceiling to the plane of the suspended plasterboard structure is then measured. When calculating this parameter, you need to take into account two important nuances– the height of the room and the type of communications and objects that are planned to be placed in the gap between the plasterboard and the rough base. The optimal distance is considered to be 50 - 65 millimeters. It will be enough for electrical wiring and fastening point lighting fixtures.
4. Draw the lines suspended ceiling. Using a level, a pencil and a special thread, mark the future ceiling structure around the perimeter of the room, according to which the frame will be mounted using wooden beam or metal profiles.
5. On a piece of paper, draw a plan of the room to scale indicating all dimensions and a diagram of the frame for the plasterboard ceiling.
6. Mark on paper the mounting locations of the guide profile and fasteners, which are placed at intervals of 25 to 40 centimeters.
7. The diagram shows the lines where the ceiling profiles are located. For a cellular structure, the distance between them is made equal to 60 centimeters - this value is half the length of a sheet of drywall. When installing transversely, this gap should not exceed 30 - 40 centimeters. It should be remembered that the edges of two adjacent slabs will need to be attached to the same profile, and on the plan the lines are drawn in the middle of the PP.
8. The diagram is supplemented with marks for the placement of suspensions every 40 - 60 centimeters and installation points for lighting fixtures and electrical wiring elements.
9. The drawing is transferred from a sheet of paper to a previously prepared ceiling using a tape measure and a special thread. The horizontalness of the plane is checked using a level.
10. Based on the diagram for installing the frame on a profile ceiling, the quantity of all components, including fasteners and connectors, is calculated.

The gypsum boards and the suspended structure for their fastening are placed perpendicular to the window frames and the plane of the glass with the long side.

Preparing the ceiling surface

Before making a frame for plasterboard on the ceiling, you should prepare the floor for installation of the suspension system:

1. The rough base is cleaned of remnants of old finishing materials.
2. First, remove the chandelier and other hanging items.
3. The surface is cleaned of various contaminants. Existing cracks and cracks are sealed with putty. The base is primed and then treated with an antiseptic composition.

Assembling the cellular frame

To install a profile under plasterboard on the ceiling, in addition to a stepladder, you will need the following tools:

• level;
• marker and thread;
• hammer;
• screwdriver;
• hammer drill

After the ceiling has already been laid out and divided into cells measuring 60x60 centimeters, proceed to the installation of profiles and hangers:

1. A guide profile is attached in accordance with the line marked on the wall. Before this, sealing tape is glued to the side adjacent to the wall and holes are made for dowels at intervals of 30–40 centimeters. The guides need to be installed around the entire perimeter of the room and fastened to each other with corner connectors.
2. The frame hangers are fixed 30 centimeters from the wall. In this case, they are guided by the lines of location of the main profiles. Then the hangers are fixed with dowels at intervals of 60 centimeters so that each of them is in the center between the jumper profiles. The “legs” on the hangers are bent down.
3. Start preparing the ceiling profiles. The value indicated in the diagram is reduced by 5 - 10 millimeters so that the plasterboard ceiling in conditions of elevated temperature is not subject to deformation due to the expansion of the profiles.
4. The PP is inserted into the guides and connected to the hangers with self-tapping screws. To align the structure relative to the horizontal plane, a level and the participation of assistants will be required.
5. After completing the installation of the main PCBs, jumpers made of metal profiles, cut into sections of 590-595 millimeters, are placed between them. Fastening is carried out crosswise using crab connectors and self-tapping screws.

On reverse side frame, which faces the ceiling, it is necessary to stick a sealing tape. It is better to do this before attaching the profile to the hangers. The sealing tape is a 30mm wide porous material with a self-adhesive base. It is used when fastening the structure to ensure a tight fit of the frame for the plasterboard sheet to the concrete and to reduce the level of sound transmission.

Installation of the cross frame

For ceiling mounting metal frame cross type will be required less material. The fact is that to assemble it there is no need to use jumpers and crab connectors. But at the same time, you should reduce the distance between the transverse profiles and, instead of 60 centimeters, maintain an interval of 40 - 50 centimeters.

There is a certain sequence for arranging the transverse frame:

1. Markings for the guides are applied to the surface of the ceiling base, using thread, and the locations of the profiles are marked. It is also necessary to determine the angle as close as possible to 90 degrees.
2. Holes are drilled in the wall to install the guide profile at intervals of 30 - 40 centimeters.
3. Cover the guide profile with sealing tape and fix it to the wall with screws and dowels, which are chosen depending on the characteristics of the surface - they can be driven in or screwed in.
4. The hangers are placed 30 centimeters from the wall and at a distance of 60 centimeters from one another. The ends of the products are directed downwards.
5. For installation of transverse ceiling profile cut the elements to the required length. To prevent the drywall from being damaged or warped in the event of thermal expansion, about 5 millimeters must be cut off from the metal profile.
6. A sealing tape is glued to the bottom side of the profile, it is inserted into the guides and attached to the hangers with small self-tapping screws.

Creating a multi-level frame

There are many options for constructing a multi-level suspended ceiling structure, which can have different shapes.

This case describes the process of how to make a frame for plasterboard on the ceiling, if it is planned to cover both tiers of the system and the sides between them:

1. First, markup is done. Drawing up a diagram and transferring it to ceiling surface should be given maximum attention.
2. Installation lines for guide profiles for both levels – lower and upper – are drawn on the wall. Then they make holes for fasteners.
3. Guide profiles are attached to the wall to arrange the upper level as previously described in the article.
4. Install direct hangers. The gaps between them can be reduced, which means it will be possible to establish large quantity these products, which is necessary due to the increased load placed on the ceiling.
5. Fasten the top-level PP in the same way as it was done for a single-level ceiling system. You can assemble both a cellular and a transverse frame structure.
6. Guides for the lower level of the frame are fixed on the wall.
7. The straight profile is cut into a large number of vertical posts, which serve as “sides” between the ceiling levels. The racks are attached to the supporting part of the upper level using T-shaped or multi-level connectors.
8. An arched profile is fixed at the bottom of the racks, which can be replaced with a guide profile, but you must first make even cuts on it and bend it in certain places.
9. Load-bearing ceiling profiles are fixed between the lower level guides and the arched profile.

The result should be the correct frame for the plasterboard ceiling, in which additional load will be applied to the upper level. When performing such work, the help of an experienced installer will not hurt.

5.00/5 (2 ratings)

The main task, or as many people think, the problem, is how to properly make a frame from a metal profile under plasterboard, so that the end result is a beautiful ceiling. In fact, everything is much simpler than you think.

Drywall, or rather its use, is considered the simplest and most in a fast way level the surface of not only walls, but also ceilings. Using drywall you can also do various partitions, arches, etc. which are not load-bearing structure. From this material you can implement any design ideas - as much as you have enough imagination.

Knauf has developed metal profile components of universal sizes and types for various options cladding. The frame for the ceiling can be made easily, remember the construction set in childhood - all according to the same principle.

Types and types of metal profiles

Since plasterboard is a wide-profile material, it can be used to cover not only ceilings, walls, facades, but also floors.
The frame system varies in typology:

• by fastening method;
• depending on the purpose.

More than eight variants of the metal profile have been developed, which are mainly divided into:

• connecting profiles;
• profile guides.

Profile guides PN 28/27 are available different sizes, however, they have identical edges, which make it possible to insert another profile and securely fasten both together.

Connecting profiles PP 60/27 have an edge whose edge is curved. This gives additional strength and rigidity in case of deformation.

If the ceiling is covered with wooden frame, then it is necessary to connect the bars together quite rigidly and you need to learn how to do this.

In addition to the guides, there are many connecting elements with which it is possible to assemble a metal profile frame on the ceiling in several levels:

• connectors;
• press washers with a drill;
• hangers with and without clamp;
• extension cords

With their help, you can get the final version of the ceiling in several levels. However, this will require not only imagination, but also some professional skills. Do not be afraid of difficulties - you need to learn to overcome them and your plasterboard ceiling will decorate your apartment and delight you for many years.

How to calculate materials for a ceiling frame

It doesn’t matter whether you are making a suspended ceiling from plasterboard or a stretch ceiling - it all starts with the first step - the ceiling design. The most important thing will be a drawing of the entire ceiling frame, where the necessary elements will be indicated: from connecting ones to the amount of metal profiles.

Know that suspended structure stretch ceiling different from plasterboard ceilings. But this does not prevent their unification at all. To do this, a frame is made of metal profiles in two levels, which should combine the structural elements of two ceilings. Thus it is possible.

Important! When creating a frame for a multi-level ceiling, be careful and remember that this ceiling will significantly reduce the height of the room. Such ceilings may look too bulky and put psychological pressure on you.

Let's start calculating the metal profile frame for the ceiling:

• Measure the perimeter of your room. This will be the length of your PPN 28/27 guide profile. We take a little more in length, since uneven walls are already a normal phenomenon even in new apartments.
• The quantity of frame profile PP 60/27 is measured according to the width and length of the room. The length of the frame profile should be equal to the width of the room and it is laid in increments of 60 cm. Here everything is simply calculated. If you plan to make a ceiling frame from plastic panels, then the metal profile is laid in increments of 50 cm.
• U-shaped hangers must hold the supporting profile. Therefore, they are mounted on floor slabs above each load-bearing metal profile. The pitch of the U-shaped suspensions is also 60 cm.
• The supporting profile and all connections to it are made using crabs. To calculate the correct number of crabs, you simply need to multiply the rows of the supporting metal profile by the number of jumpers.

Mounting methods

Each type of profile for creating a frame has, as you already understood, its own purpose and its own method of fastening. The most common ceiling frame systems are mainly mounted from two types of metal profiles: ceiling and guide.

The guide profile is always mounted around the perimeter of the wall using screws or dowels, depending on the material of your walls. If it is a block, then you can use both self-tapping screws and dowel-nails. If it is brick or concrete, then it is better to use self-tapping screws with propylene inserts.

It is with the help of this profile that you will determine the height of the future ceiling from the floor level. If there are differences in the ceiling plane, this is The best way align it. If you are planning to make a frame from a metal profile for a two-level ceiling, then, accordingly, the guide profile should be attached at two levels using various components: hangers, extensions and the like - we talked about them above.

A single-level frame made of a metal profile for plasterboard consists of the same profiles PP 60/27 or PN 28/27, which must be aligned in one plane under the level. All direct hangers or hangers with a clamp, extensions, crab joints are attached to small self-tapping screws, preferably metal. If necessary, you can make excellent sound insulation for the ceiling, which can be laid in the frame between the supporting profiles.

Important! For frames made of metal profiles, it is the ceiling plasterboard - gypsum plasterboard - that is required. The thickness of the drywall should not exceed eight millimeters.

This system of ceiling frames made of metal profiles is standard, but this does not prohibit going beyond the architectural and design solutions to create a beautiful ceiling. The use of rigid profile frames is very popular, and will continue to be used in the decoration of ceilings for quite some time. long time. Using the same principle, it is necessary to make calculations for multi-level ceilings. Remember that it is significantly different from suspended plasterboard ceilings.

These ceilings are very suitable if there is a need to hide a lot of communications: pipes, wires, and so on.

Step-by-step instruction

It is impossible to make suspended ceilings from plasterboard without creating a frame from a metal profile or a frame from wooden slats.

First, inspect the floor slabs. Seal cracks and remove large irregularities. It is advisable to level the walls in the place where the guide profile will be installed. Marking on the wall begins with setting the height of future ceilings. This is more conveniently done using a laser level.

To assemble the ceiling frame correctly, you need to know all the nuances of the work, which we will now talk about:

1. Decide on the lower limit of the ceiling. Along the entire perimeter of the room on the walls under the ceiling, markings are made for the guide profile and for the front side of the drywall. It is immediately necessary to mark on the ceiling where the suspensions will be located.
2. Using dowels or self-tapping screws, we install profile guides around the perimeter of the room. Be sure to use a level to check horizontalness. The profile is mounted along a pre-marked line.
3. Next, you need to install hangers with which you will adjust the height of the supporting profile. It is necessary to take a step of no more than 0.6 meters between loops. They are also attached to the ceiling with self-tapping screws or dowels.
4. We cut the supporting profile to the length you need, insert it into the guide profile and fasten it on one side with self-tapping screws to the guide, on the other side with plumb hooks.
5. Next, we install the transverse profile. Here it is necessary to take into account the fact that the drywall to the load-bearing metal profile should be mounted with the long side, to the transverse metal profile with the short side. Therefore, between transverse metal profiles it is necessary to take into account a step of no more than 0.6 meters. The transverse profile is also fixed using hooks.
6. You need to stretch the thread from wall to wall and use hangers to set the required plane. As soon as the required level is reached on one of the hangers, its end must be bent. Next, we proceed to the next suspension, gradually setting the horizontal line across the entire area of ​​the ceiling. Once everything is leveled, we proceed to covering the frame with plasterboard.

Using this principle, we continue to assemble the frame along the entire ceiling. If you have planned two-level ceilings, then you first need to assemble the first level and then start creating the second. But this again depends on the configuration of the ceilings and on the project itself.

After the frame for the suspended ceiling is ready, wiring for lighting and all necessary communications are laid. Subsequently, the metal profile frame is sheathed with sheets of plasterboard, puttied, painted, and your ceiling is ready. It is worth noting that suspended ceilings can be made with your own hands, and you can also make a frame for suspended ceilings yourself. The main thing for home craftsmen is to understand the essence of the whole work and the ability to handle the tool. All that remains is to wish you strong frames and beautiful ceilings!