Installation of a doorway from a profile. How to make a plasterboard partition with a door, with your own hands (step-by-step instructions)

October 22, 2016
Specialization: master in construction plasterboard structures, finishing works and laying floor coverings. Installation of door and window units, finishing of facades, installation of electrical, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.

In this review I will tell you how to make a doorway from plasterboard with your own hands. Moreover, we will not consider any separate option, as is done in most reviews, but we will deal with all the most popular types of designs; you must decide in advance which technology is best suited for your situation. Right choice will provide not only best result, but will also simplify the work process and reduce the costs of project implementation.

Types of openings

The conditions for constructing structures may be different, so you don’t need to listen to anyone’s advice about the advantages of this or that option. You should familiarize yourself with all the technologies for carrying out work and, based on the information received, make an informed and informed decision.

Option 1 – partition with opening

If you need to make a wall with a doorway, then this section will help you understand the technology and carry out the work quickly and efficiently. This method is very popular in new buildings, where you get a room in which there are no partitions, and you determine the layout yourself; you can also redevelop the existing space, of course, if you have agreed on everything in advance.

This option must be considered as a whole - from the beginning of planning the partition to its assembly, since it is impossible to first make a wall and then build an opening in the right place, everything is thought out in advance. It doesn’t matter whether it’s a plasterboard wall with a door or an arch, it’s important to make a durable partition that will serve you for many years.

The workflow consists of several stages, each of which is important. Therefore, all the recommendations outlined below must be followed. Let's start with the planning stage:

• To begin with, you need to clearly determine the place where the future wall will be located; here you should think everything over carefully so that later it does not turn out that you missed some important nuances. Those who do the work themselves, due to lack of experience and haste, often make mistakes and miscalculations, so you shouldn’t determine everything by eye, it’s better to estimate everything using a tape measure;
• Once you clearly know the location of the wall, you can begin to determine the exact location of the opening. It all depends on the layout of your premises, its configuration and future. It is important that the end result is not only attractive, but also comfortable; think about where the location of the opening or door will be most rational;

• If you clearly know the location of the wall and opening, then making a drawing will not be difficult. For the example above, an option is shown indicating the structural elements so that you can plan their position. The guide profile sets the position of the wall, the posts create a plane, and the lintels increase strength; naturally, a frame is made around the perimeter of the opening;
• The stage cannot be considered complete until you mark the position of the structure in the room. This will simplify your further work and allow you to see errors, for example, too small a space or interference in the form of communications. The markings are made along the ceiling, after which the lines are transferred to the floor using a plumb line - this option allows you to make an ideal vertical and eliminate errors that are necessarily present when working with a level.

You can use more modern solution for marking - with a laser level. This is what specialists most often use. If you have the opportunity to borrow such equipment, then you can work with it, the main thing is to ask for advice on the operation of the level, the opinion that anyone can use it is wrong.

You cannot carry out work without a certain set of materials, the list looks like this:

Materials	Description
Drywall	Use a wall option with a thickness of 12.5 mm; you should not use ceiling sheets, their strength is low and even a child can break through such walls. Naturally, if the design is made for a room with high humidity, then it is necessary to purchase moisture-resistant drywall, which is easy to distinguish by the green color of the outer covering
Metal profile	I strongly recommend not saving and purchasing a good-quality rack profile measuring 50x100 mm and guide elements 50x50 mm. Adapting a regular profile is not the best idea, its strength is low, and a wall thickness of 6 cm will not allow you to achieve good sound insulation and structural rigidity
Mineral wool	We will use it to fill the cavities for sound and heat insulation of the partition. Regular ones will do roll materials, they are cheaper than specialized options, but, as practice shows, this option is sufficient for effective noise absorption
Fasteners	This includes dowels quick installation and self-tapping screws different types, with their help the structure is assembled into a single whole. The most commonly used dowels are 6x40, screws 3.5x11 mm and 3.5x25 mm

As for the tools, you will need the following set for work:

• A hammer drill for drilling holes for dowels. If your walls and floor are wooden, then there is no need for this tool;
• A screwdriver - you definitely can’t do without this device; screwing a huge number of screws by hand is a bad idea.
• To cut the profile, use ordinary metal scissors, the main thing is that they are sharp;
• To control the position of each element, you need a level, and to take measurements and markings, you should have a tape measure and a construction pencil on hand;
• Drywall cutting is done using the usual construction knife, to simplify the work, you can additionally use a metal ruler, then the cutting line will be perfectly straight.

Now let’s figure out how to build the frame of the structure; the instructions for carrying out the work look like this:

• A guide profile is laid out along the previously made markings; if necessary, individual elements are cut using metal scissors. Moreover, it is not necessary to cut the element completely at the corners; you can make cuts on the side shelves and simply bend it, so the structure will be more rigid;
• Next, you need to mark the surface of the walls, floor and ceiling for drilling holes for dowels. The dowel spacing is 50-60 cm; the work is not difficult, but it requires a certain amount of time. The hammer drill is very noisy, so do not use it in the morning or evening;
• The guide profile is fixed with dowels; to do this, they are first inserted into the hole, and then impact screws are driven into them, everything is very simple and quick;

• IN finished design Stands are inserted around the perimeter of the partition and secured with self-tapping screws at a distance of 60 cm from each other. For work, so-called “bugs” are used; they allow you to reliably connect the frame elements.

Now let’s figure out how to make an opening, because this is the main goal of our review, everything is simple:

• Two partition profiles are placed at the edges; if you are thinking of placing a door in the structure, then the width of the opening should be 5 cm larger than the door frame. If you have an arch, then keep in mind that drywall will be fixed to the surface, which needs to be finished decorative coating and putty, this also takes up some space;
• It is advisable to strengthen the opening; there are two main options: either insert the profile into the profile so that you get a square post, or insert a wooden block of a suitable size into the groove and secure it with self-tapping screws. Both solutions have worked well, strengthening has never harmed anyone, even if you make an arch, you can later hang a door, a reinforced opening will allow this;

• The entire structure can be reinforced with transverse jumpers, their number depends on the size of the structure and its rigidity, sometimes reinforcement is not required at all.

If there will be wiring inside the structure, then it must be laid at this stage in special corrugations. Then the following work is performed:

• First, you need to line one of the walls with plasterboard, after which you can begin laying soundproofing material, it is positioned so that there are as few cracks and voids in the cavity as possible, this will ensure the best result;

• After laying the material, the structure is completely sheathed; if there is a door inside the opening, then there is no need to sheath it along the inner perimeter; if there is an arch, then strips of plasterboard are attached to the surface.

Finishing works do not differ from ordinary ones, so we will not consider them. The corners of the opening must be reinforced with putty corners; they both level the joint and improve appearance designs.

Option 2 – leveling the opening with plasterboard

This is a simpler solution, which is used in cases where you need to quickly and efficiently align the contours of the opening. There is much less work here than in the option described above, but you still need to carefully understand all the nuances of the technology.

To work we need the following:

• Drywall - its quantity is determined in advance, most often one sheet is enough;
• The adhesive composition for drywall is a special mixture based on gypsum base, which dries very quickly and firmly fixes the material on various substrates;
• The tools you need are a knife for cutting drywall, a tape measure and a pencil for marking, a level to control the position of the elements, and a container for preparing the adhesive.

The workflow consists of several stages:

• First of all, you need to prepare the surface of the opening: clean it of dirt, build-up of solution and other elements that interfere with work. If there is significant damage to the base, it is easier to repair it cement mortar, there is no need to draw the planes perfectly, it is important to strengthen them and make them more or less even;
• Then the opening is measured to determine the size of the plasterboard elements. First of all, I advise cutting out only the top element and only after fixing it, cutting the sidewalls; the width should be equal to the thickness of the wall, the length should allow the material to be positioned freely in the opening;

Before attaching drywall, I recommend treating the surfaces with a strengthening agent. primer composition, this will improve the adhesion of the adhesive composition and reduce the absorption of the bases.

• The adhesive composition is applied to the material in massive dots or, as builders call them, slaps. The element is carefully pressed against the top of the slope, after which you need to use a level to set it to a perfectly level position. If you are concerned about the reliability of the fixation, you can use 1-2 spacers, they can be removed after half an hour, the glue sets very quickly;

• Next, measurements are taken of the side elements, pieces of drywall are cut out and glued in the same way as on the top part. It’s easier to work with side slopes; the most important thing is to remember to level them using a level; it’s unlikely that you’ll be able to correct the curvature later;
• When the composition dries, and this only takes a couple of hours, you can begin finishing the structure; the gaps between the wall and the ends of the drywall can be filled with the same adhesive composition. Corners are placed on the corners to strengthen and level this part of the structure. Lastly, the surface is puttied and painted or covered with decorative paint.

The price of this option for finishing openings is low, but this solution has one significant drawback: the door cannot be fastened to such a surface, or you will have to drill a deep hole so that the anchor can reach the brick or concrete.

Option 3 – opening on a metal frame

If it is necessary to reduce the size of the opening or it is severely damaged, then the easiest way is to build a frame that will create structural rigidity and allow any base to be leveled. This option combines the two previous ones, since we will be working with concrete or other walls, and the plasterboard will be attached to a metal frame.

Let's look at the technology for carrying out the work:

• First of all, the plaster is removed from one or both sides of the opening at a distance of 15-20 cm to the edge, this will allow the material to be aligned with the main surface and thereby significantly simplify the leveling process. Do not worry that you are removing a layer greater than the thickness of the drywall - this difference is compensated by the adhesive composition;
• Then you need to use a level, tape measure and pencil to mark the position of the future structure; you need to make its outlines on the floor and the top of the opening so that when carrying out work you have clear guidelines and do not confuse anything. The markings will also help you decide how to strengthen the structure and where to place the frame elements;

• The next stage is attaching the starting profile in the required places. Most often you need to cut small elements and fasten them with dowels or self-tapping screws. The markings made earlier serve as a guide; everything is very simple and convenient;

• If you need to reduce the opening in height, then the frame is made in the upper part, its dimensions depend on the thickness of the walls, but remember that plasterboard will be attached on both sides, which means that there must be at least 13 mm from the frame to the plane of the wall. That is, after sheathing the structure, the surface should be leveled;

• If doorways are made of plasterboard, then on the side of hanging the canvas it is advisable to strengthen the structure as I described above. It is important to ensure the rigidity of the system, so it is better to play it safe and strengthen it so that it can withstand even the heaviest door;
• When the frame is ready, you can begin measuring the dimensions of the drywall, cutting and attaching them.. Moreover, the material is not attached in the usual way: if it comes to the surface of the wall, then there it is placed on a gypsum adhesive composition, and in places where there is a frame, drywall is attached to it. In the end it turns out very reliable design, the main thing is to monitor the location of the sheets using a level;
• The last step is to putty the structure, there are several simple recommendations: corners must be used; at the joints the plane can be strengthened using a sickle mesh of the required width. It is important to make the plane level so that the joint between the plaster and the plaster is not visible at all.

Option 4 – construction of an arch

All three options described above differed in implementation technology and design, but all of them were a straight-sided opening the right size. But if you decide to make an arch, then this section will help you get the job done. This technology is suitable for all the above cases.

I will not talk about the entire working process, but will dwell in detail only on the curved part. This is the most difficult element that you should understand as best as possible.

The workflow consists of the following steps:

• First of all, you need to figure out what your arch will look like; the dimensions of the frame and the installation of the structure depend on what shape you choose. When you decide, you can start attaching the base for the structure; it is made from a wall profile and is located on the top and side so as not to interfere with the curved elements that will be installed later;
• Then you need to make a blank for the curved element; for this, take a guide profile and make even cuts on it opposite each other at a distance of 3-4 cm along the entire length. The profile prepared in this way can be given the required shape later;

• Next, the element is bent the way we need it; here it is important to try on the finished product against the opening in order to control the dimensions and, if necessary, cut off the excess part. To simplify the work and improve the final result, be sure to make the second arched element in the shape of the first, and do not bend it separately, so you can get two identical parts;

• The arched parts are fastened to a previously installed base; for rigidity, spacers can be installed at any angle in any place. The arched elements are connected to each other through lintels. You can also use hangers if you need to additionally secure part of the profile somewhere, it all depends on your design, it is important that in the end it turns out strong;

• When the structure is secured, you can begin covering the front sides, that is, the sections of the wall at the top of the opening. Here it is very important to accurately cut out the oval side, since it will be very difficult to remove it with putty later. You must transfer the exact curve to the material and cut it out, after which the sheet is fastened with self-tapping screws, you need everything to match as best as possible;

• First you need to cut a strip of drywall to the required length, everything is simple: we measure the width and length of the curved part using a tape measure and transfer these indicators to the material;
• Using a special needle roller, you need to make holes in back side drywall, it is easy to identify it by the inscriptions. You just need to go through this device, pressing it well, you shouldn’t be too zealous, otherwise you may ruin the piece and have to cut off another one;

• The punched surface is moistened with water and left for a couple of minutes, after which the material can be bent. This should be done carefully, it is important not to damage the drywall;
• Fastening is done with an assistant - one person holds the bent material, and the second fixes it with self-tapping screws. After drying, the structure will become rigid;

• I recommend attaching a special arched corner to the outer corners of the curved areas, and it is advisable to first cover the entire surface with fiberglass for strength.

After this, you need to carry out putty work, the end result will be durable and reliable if you follow all the recommendations described above.

People sometimes ask me, is it possible to make a door out of plasterboard? In fact, this is possible, but the reliability of such a product will not be very high; it is much more reasonable to buy a ready-made design.

Conclusion

It is much easier to build an opening from plasterboard than from any other material, so almost anyone who has the desire to carry out the work themselves can handle the job. The video in this article will help you understand some of the nuances even better, and if you still have questions, write them in the comments under this review. A plasterboard doorway will allow you to quickly and economically straighten curved walls Drywall is a durable and affordable material that absolutely anyone can learn to work with, even without construction experience. Today they make it from plasterboard decorative elements

, all kinds of shelves and niches. It is used to level walls and create multi-level floors and ceilings. Therefore, it is not surprising that plasterboard began to be used for the construction of interior partitions. How to make a gypsum plasterboard partition with a doorway yourself - read below.

How to make an opening for a plasterboard door: preparatory stage Making an interior partition with a doorway may be necessary if uneven walls in room. In addition, a plasterboard frame with an opening allows you to make it quite inexpensively and efficiently from one large room two are small. Using a plasterboard structure, you can easily change the dimensions (for example, make it narrower) and the location of the doorway in panel house

Before construction work, without fail, you should make a drawing of the future design, taking into account GOSTs and SNiP.

This will allow you to correctly calculate the volume of material and outline the scope of the upcoming work. When drawing up a drawing plan, you should take into account standard sizes plasterboard sheets and metal profiles. Thus, standard gypsum boards are made with dimensions of 250x120 cm, and a standard metal profile has a length of 300-400 cm.

Before carrying out construction work, a drawing of the future structure should be made

If you plan to make any changes to load-bearing walls, you need to contact the relevant authorities (BTI, Ministry of Emergency Situations, SES, architecture department, housing inspection, operating organizations), and obtain permission for redevelopment.

If this is your first time working with drywall, then you should study the types and purposes of metal profiles. The durability of the structure depends on them.

Making a doorway from plasterboard with your own hands

In order to assemble a frame with an opening based on interior wall and cover it with plasterboard, you will need: metal profiles(guide and rack partition), cladding material, basalt mineral wool, scissors or a circular saw for metal, a hammer drill and a screwdriver, a jigsaw, an edge plane, 8 mm dowels, 25-35 mm metal screws and self-tapping screws with a press washer.

A plasterboard doorway is made in several stages

Manufacturing a frame with a doorway includes the following steps:

• Removal interior door and dismantling the door frame;
• Expansion of the opening (if necessary);
• Marking the wall;
• Installation of the lower and upper guide profiles using 6x40 dowels with a distance of 40 cm;
• Installation of wall profiles along the entire length of the wall with a distance of 60 cm;
• Installation of vertical rack profiles;
• Installation of the horizontal lintel of the opening;
• Installation of vertical guides opposite wall profiles;
• Filling the frame with insulation (for example, mineral wool);
• Covering the frame with plasterboard; To increase the strength of the structure, you can sheathe the frame in several layers, in a checkerboard pattern;
• Applying putty to the joints of sheets and places where gypsum boards are attached to the frame;
• Grouting putty, priming sheets for further finishing.

If design standards and rules are followed, a plasterboard doorway will last for many years. A correctly assembled structure will be able to withstand a fairly large load: the opening can even be decorated with decorative artificial stone, brick.

Assembling a plasterboard door frame correctly: advice from builders

In addition to following the doorway installation technology, you should also take into account some nuances that will help extend the service life of the structure.

When assembling a door frame from plasterboard, you must adhere to the installation technology

So that the structure is strong and even, Experienced drywallers advise:

1. Use wooden blocks to strengthen the vertical posts. The bars are laid directly into the profile.
2. Mount the support posts using the insertion method, in which the shelves of one of the profiles are inserted inside the second. The ends of the double profiles can be attached to the guides using self-tapping screws or notches.
3. Position the plasterboard sheets so that their joint lies on the profile.
4. Mount the sheets so that the screws go deeper into the material by 1-2 mm, and into the rack by at least 1 cm. In this case, the fasteners must enter at a right angle.
5. Always install a minimum of four rack profiles. At the same time, their height should correspond to the height of the future door.
6. Minus half a cm when cutting the profile in order to be influenced high temperatures he didn't run into walls.
7. Reinforce external corners structures with a special profile in order to reduce their fragility.
8. Increase the thickness of the partition in proportion to the increase in its length: load bearing capacity plasterboard construction depends on the size of the section.

To bend a sheet of drywall for an arch, go over it with a needle roller and lightly moisten it with water. After the fox becomes pliable, you can fix it in the desired position. The main thing is to make sure that the sheet does not soften, otherwise in the future it will crumble and crumble.

How to align a doorway in a panel house

Alignment of the doorway may be necessary if it is moved or expanded. In addition, doorways are often located at the junction of two panels, and can be skewed due to the mismatch between the two lengths of the vertical sides. The choice of finishing method for the opening is influenced by the degree of its curvature and the repair budget.

You can level a doorway without the involvement of professional builders with your own hands using plaster.

You can level the doorway yourself

Today, openings can be finished with either wet or dry plaster. In the first option, the opening is finished with gypsum, cement and polymer mixtures. In the second - with civil code sheets.

The easiest way to apply a moisture-resistant polymer mixture, which has high performance characteristics.

Drywall can be mounted either without profiles or with a frame. The first case should be chosen if the differences in relief in the opening are insignificant. In addition, you can combine methods to achieve a better decorative effect.

DIY plasterboard doorway (video)

The scope of application of drywall is extremely wide. One of the options for using the material is to create artificial interior partitions and decorate doorways. Making and leveling a doorway using gypsum plasterboard yourself is quite simple. To do this, you just need to make the markings correctly, perform the work in the right sequence, and follow building regulations, and take into account the recommendations of experienced builders. And then you will have a durable and beautiful design!

The ease of processing of plasterboard boards allows them to be used for a variety of purposes, including for the design of window and door openings. Moreover, it is possible both decorative finishing doorways with plasterboard, when this material only covers the planes of capital partitions, as well as the construction of doors in partitions made of gypsum plasterboard.

Decorating a door with gypsum board is quite simple, but some nuances are still worth taking into account. That is why in this article we will consider in detail all the stages of this operation to change the interior of your home.

Doors in plasterboard partitions

How to reduce the size of the passage

When remodeling an apartment, we quite often encounter a situation where the width of the doorway is excessive and needs to be reduced. This operation can be performed using drywall, and below are instructions that allow you to do it yourself and with minimal costs time, effort and money.

Note!
It is very important that on the wall next to the entrance there is a layer of plaster, the thickness of which is equal to or greater than the thickness of the gypsum board sheet. In this case, the new opening will be as smooth as possible!

We reduce the size as follows:

• First, on one side of the doorway, remove the plaster 10-15 cm from the edge.
• Then we apply markings to the walls and floor of the room, outlining the contours of our future drywall frame.
• We attach fragments of the starting profile to the floor and ceiling according to the markings.
• We insert rack profiles into the starting profile and connect them with self-tapping screws or pliers for galvanized metal.

Advice!
To provide the frame with greater rigidity, wooden beams can be placed in the profile - the so-called “mortgages”. The length of the beams must be equal to the length of the profiles.

• When the frame is ready, we cut out the pieces of drywall we need.
• Having applied drywall glue to the areas of the wall that have been cleared of plaster, we attach the resulting sheets to the base, and after polymerization of the glue, we fix the edges of the sheets to the frame using self-tapping screws.

• We sew up the slope of the new opening with a gypsum board strip, after which we putty all the joints and prepare the surfaces for finishing.

This technology is the simplest. It is much more difficult to figure out how to make a door in a wall made of plasterboard, i.e. in a hollow gypsum wall.

Related articles:

Door in frame partition

Doors in a partition made of gypsum plasterboards should be designed at the stage of construction of the partition itself.

So that the doorway has enough for effective operation mechanical characteristics, you must adhere to the following recommendations:

• At the stage of marking, in the lower part we mark the planned location of the future doorway. Its dimensions should be slightly larger than we need, since part of the width will inevitably be “eaten up” by the finishing.
• According to the markings, we attach two sections of the starting profile to the floor, which will act as the basis for the vertical posts.
• We insert the vertical rack profiles into the starting profile and securely fasten them, after which we attach them to the same profile on the ceiling.
• As in the case of changing the dimensions of the passage, we place wooden beams in the rack profile. To ensure sufficient rigidity, we attach the beams to the profile with self-tapping screws in increments of 30-40 cm. Price wooden beam on the market is small, so the increase in the cost of the structure will be insignificant - but the mechanical properties of the frame will seriously improve!
• We continue to assemble the door frame, connecting the vertical posts with horizontal profiles. The sequence of assembling the frame for plasterboard structures is shown in the video instructions posted on the portal.

The finished frame must be covered with plasterboard. When sawing gypsum plasterboard, try to ensure that the junction of the two sheets is located above the doorway - this way there is less risk of cracks.

Covering the frame with gypsum plaster sheets and subsequent finishing is carried out in the same way as in the previous case.

Advice!
If the door leaf planned for installation in this partition has a significant mass, then before sheathing the doorway with plasterboard inside, you can install additional wooden spacers.
Covering the frame with plasterboard in two layers also gives a good result.

Design of a plasterboard arch

Yet the most common plasterboard doorways are arched structures, placed in place of the removed doors. Most often, arches are made either at the entrance to the kitchen, or at the junction of the hallway or living room.

The gypsum plasterboard arch is mounted as follows:

• First we remove the door and remove the old one door frame. If necessary, we increase the dimensions of the passage between rooms to make it more spacious.
• At the top of the opening we attach the base for the frame of the future arch, using starting profile elements made of galvanized metal.
• We attach the arc part of the crayfish, made from a cut profile (as shown in the photo), to the base.

• Next, you need to cover the arched part. At the first stage, we attach flat elements to the sheathing, forming the front surfaces of our future door.
  Here it is important to cut out the arc parts very accurately, since it will be difficult to level them with drywall putty.

The final part of the cladding is the most difficult. We need to sheathe the inner curved surface of the arched passage.

For this:

• Cut a strip of material of the appropriate size.
• Having laid the drywall on a flat surface, we roll it using a special needle roller, after which we lightly moisten it with water.
• We carefully bend the strip processed in this way, and, attaching it to the frame, fasten it with self-tapping screws.

At this point, the installation of the plasterboard doorway itself is completed - all we have to do is glue all the seams with reinforcing tape, attach a protective pad at the corners and fill in all the irregularities. After completing all these operations, the new arched opening is ready for finishing!

We hope that thanks to the recommendations given in the article, you have understood how to make an opening from plasterboard. And now, if such a need arises, you will definitely approach the task “fully armed”!

A do-it-yourself plasterboard partition with a door built indoors is great solution for zoning space. The design may contain built-in shelves or recesses. They house various items: books, decorative figurines, photographs. The configuration of the partition may be different. Curved lines and non-standard shapes are very popular. However, many novice craftsmen believe that building such a structure is quite difficult. Next, we'll figure out if this is true.

General information

Plasterboard partition with door: organization of the doorway

The work begins with installing the racks. They will form They are attached to guides laid on the floor and ceiling. Next, intermediate racks are installed from each wall in increments of about 60 cm. Then a small section of the profile will be needed. Its length should correspond to the width of the future opening plus 2 racks of 10 cm each. The letter “P” is formed from this segment and attached to the place where the top crossbar of the future box is fixed upside down. To give greater strength, install 1-2 small racks, the size of which is equal to the distance from the crossbar to the upper (ceiling) guide profile. This creates a kind of frame over the future box.

Plasterboard partition with door: installation features

The frame for the future box must be assembled in such a way that the sheets can then be correctly placed and secured. If there are errors in the assembly, subsequently, when opening or closing the door, cracks may appear on the partition at the joints of the gypsum plasterboard directly near the opening. To avoid these problems, reinforcements should be placed on both sides of the box. To do this, a beam (40x40 or 50x40) is inserted inside the racks. Such reinforcement will not only add strength to the structure, but will also facilitate its installation. If there is no timber or there is no desire to use it as additional elements rigidity, you can install another rack profile in close proximity or close to the outer rack. All parts are fastened with self-tapping screws. As an option, you can immediately install a reinforced profile with additional ones. The more there are, the higher the load that the wall with a plasterboard door in the apartment will withstand. This completes the assembly of the frame. If necessary, wiring should be installed before covering the gypsum plasterboard (if you are installing lighting for a plasterboard partition yourself). How to make an original design design? Can be used as a backlight Spotlights or LED strips.

GVL fastening

Sheathing of the frame begins with solid sheets from the wall. Fastening gypsum fiber boards is carried out in the same way as when finishing walls and ceilings. During the work you need to ensure that:

• The distance from the edge of the sheet to the place where the self-tapping screw is screwed in was in the region of 1.0-0.5 cm.
• A spacing of 10-15 cm was maintained between fasteners.
• The joining of adjacent sheets was carried out on one profile.
• The self-tapping screw head was recessed into the gypsum fiber sheet by 0.5-0.8 mm.

When constructing a wall with a single-layer plasterboard sheathing, the length of the fastening element should be no more than 2.5 cm. When finishing with two layers of gypsum plasterboard, the self-tapping screw should be no less than 4.0 cm.

Using jumpers

Often, a single sheet is not enough to cover any area. In this regard, it is necessary to increase the GVL. In this case, it is necessary to install additional jumpers at the transverse joints of the sheets. Sections of guides or CD-60 profile are used as additional racks. When installing the jumper, do not apply strong pressure to it. The sheet must be fixed in short increments, using at least 5-6 screws for each side.

Final stage

After the GVL is fixed on one side, proceed to covering the other part of the frame. You can first lay insulating material inside - insulation (mineral wool or polystyrene foam). Its width should be slightly larger than the interprofile space. Then the material will be installed end-to-end between the racks, which, in turn, will eliminate the formation of gaps. After this, the second side is covered with sheets of drywall. After completing the fastening, the joints are glued with reinforced mesh and puttied. The screw caps are also masked.

Finally

In general, even an inexperienced, novice master can cope with the installation. All the work can be done independently, without involving anyone for help. The most important thing is to maintain verticality and horizontality when installing frame elements. The position is controlled by the building level. The advantage of plasterboard is that when it is laid, it creates a perfect Smooth surface. Can be used as a finishing coat various materials. Wallpapering and painting are very popular. The surface is also often covered decorative plaster. You can use heavier materials - stone, wooden panels. But in this case, a reinforced profile is needed for the frame, and thick plasterboard is needed for the cladding. Otherwise, the structure may not withstand the load and collapse.

On the market building materials drywall appeared relatively recently. Just 15 years ago, partitions and walls of buildings were built from foam blocks or bricks. Today, drywall is gaining more and more popularity.

The main advantages of drywall compared to others finishing materials, should include:

• ease of installation, since any owner can handle the installation of drywall;
• the ability to make a variety of shapes;
• preservation optimal humidity in room. Due to its porous structure, the material allows steam and moisture to pass through, the costs of which it retains;
• Thanks to some types of impregnation, drywall can be used in rooms and structures with high level humidity;
• the material is very light weight, so it does not overload the structure on which it is attached;
• drywall is much cheaper than similar materials;
• The material is environmentally friendly and does not harm health.

Drywall doorways are installed using a profile with a width of 50 to 100 mm. At the same time, it is cut with your own hands to the required size.

Necessary tool

To make a doorway out of plasterboard with your own hands, you need to have the following tool:

• building level;
• screwdriver or drill with attachments;
• roulette;
• perforator;
• polyurethane foam;
• plumb line to install guide profiles;
• pencil;
• cutter.

Even with a minimal set of tools, you can quickly and efficiently make a doorway with your own hands.

Doorway installation

Before you begin installing the doorway, you need to prepare a frame for it.

Installation of the frame for the opening is carried out as follows:

• the doorway pillar is installed to the ceiling and floor profiles;
• intermediate racks are installed at a distance of about 50 cm from each other to each wall;
• a U-shaped section is formed from plasterboard, after which it is attached to the horizontal crossbar above the door;
• the structure is fastened with self-tapping screws;
• if the structure needs to be given additional rigidity, a wooden beam can be inserted into the doorway.

After the frame is ready, begin laying solid sheets of drywall. This is very easy to do if you follow these rules:

• the gap from the installation site of the screw to the edge of the sheet should be about 1 cm;
• the optimal distance from one fastener to another is 15 cm;
• sheets placed adjacent to each other must be located on the same profile;
• the fastener head is recessed into the sheet by no more than 0.8 mm;
• the length of the screws used should be within 2 cm;
• Next, you need to seal all the joints and carry out other cosmetic work.

Thus, by attaching sheets of drywall to the prepared frame, you will get an aesthetic and beautiful doorway.

How to reduce a doorway with drywall

When remodeling a home, owners sometimes face a situation where the size of the doorway requires reduction. It is very easy to do this with your own hands, but before you sew up the doorway with plasterboard, you need to apply a layer of plaster on the wall near the door corresponding to the thickness of the plasterboard sheet.

Using drywall, the doorway can be reduced in the following way:

• plaster is removed 10 cm from the edge of the doorway;
• markings are applied to the walls and floor;
• according to pre-prepared markings, the starting profile is attached to the floor and ceiling;
• Point profiles are placed on the finished starting profile, which are then connected with self-tapping screws;
• after complete installation the frame must be reduced in original dimensions and fragments cut out from plasterboard for the future structure;
• special glue is applied to areas of the wall that have previously been cleared of plaster (it is better to do this with gloves). Plasterboard sheets attached to the applied glue and after its polymerization, the edges of the sheets are fixed with self-tapping screws;
• The doorway slopes must also be reduced in size, after which they are covered with a strip of drywall, and all joints must be sealed with your own hands.

Doorway, especially if it concerns front door, can not only be reduced, but also insulated or isolated from extraneous sounds. This is done before covering with plasterboard, after the frame is installed.

It is better to choose polystyrene foam or mineral wool boards as insulation.

Installation of a door in a plasterboard opening

To install the door in plasterboard partition it is necessary to install the door frame, and then hang the leaf.

To ensure that the box, built with your own hands, holds tightly, it is secured with special wooden wedges. After final fastening, the wedges can be easily removed.

All parts of the box are checked for correct installation at a building level. If all the parameters are in order, you can use self-tapping screws to secure the door frame into the opening.

The gap between the box and the stand must be sealed with special mounting foam. In order for the shape of the opening to be completely preserved, it is necessary to insert spacers during installation.