Rafter system of a hipped roof: main features of the frame. Do-it-yourself hipped roof: technology for constructing a complex roof Installation of a 4-pitched roof

The classic hipped roof, even today, remains unusual for Russian latitudes and is reminiscent of the overseas way of life. That is why it is most often built in order to give the architecture of a residential building a special effect in terms of style and perception, it is advantageous to distinguish it from monotonous, familiar buildings.

In addition, a hipped roof - built with your own hands according to all the rules - in practice has a large number of advantages, especially for harsh Russian latitudes. Let's take a closer look?

Hip roof has slopes that are made in the form of isosceles triangles and their vertices converge at one point. If the hipped roof is square in plan when viewed from above, then it is called a hip roof.

If it doesn’t turn out square, but turns out to be a rectangle, it’s a hip roof. Such interesting name she received it thanks to stingrays, which have the appearance of a gable hip.

Dutch roof: classic four slopes

The Dutch or hip roof is considered a classic option, which is particularly resistant to wind and snow.

The surface of a standard hip roof forms two trapezoidal slopes on the long sides and the same number of triangular ones on the short sides. Unlike a hipped roof, this form, according to modern architects, is considered more aesthetically pleasing.

It involves the installation of four rafters - diagonal support beams that run from the two tops of the slopes to the upper corners of the building.

But the half-hip roof, in turn, comes in two types: when the side slopes cut off only part of the end at the top, or already at the bottom, that is, the half-hip itself can be a triangle or a trapezoid, and is called Danish or half-hip Dutch.

Half-hip Dutch roof: particularly stable

The half-hip Dutch roof is both a variant of both a gable structure and a hip roof. It differs from the classic version by the presence of truncated hips - triangular end slopes. According to the rules, the length of the hip of a Dutch roof should be 1.5-3 times less than the length of the side trapezoidal slopes.

The advantage of such a roof is that it is possible to install a vertical dormer window, and at the same time there is no sharp projection, like a gable roof, which, in turn, increases the roof’s ability to withstand extreme wind loads.

Half-hip Danish roof: European traditions

But the Danish half-hip roof is a type of purely hip roof. In this case, only the lower part of the end slope is mounted, and a small vertical pediment is left under the ridge.

The advantage of this design is that it allows you to eliminate roof windows that are problematic in terms of waterproofing and provide daylight attics due to the installation of full vertical glazing, which is especially fashionable now.

Hip roof: ideal proportions

A hip roof is usually installed on buildings that have the same length of walls, which form a square perimeter. This one has four pitched roof All the slopes are shaped like identical isosceles triangles, a roofer’s dream, in a word, and a builder’s nightmare.

The fact is that the construction of a classic hip roof is even more difficult than that of a hip roof, because here the rafters must all converge at one point:

Construction of a roof truss system with four slopes

Here is the simplest example of building a standard hip roof for a small country house:

Stage I. Planning and design

Before making a hipped roof, be sure to think through all its details, down to the smallest detail. Be sure to build even the simplest hip roof structure according to a ready-made drawing. The fact is that the finished gable roof defects and distortions are almost noticeable, but if you make a mistake somewhere in the construction of the same hip or hip roof, then the diagonal rafters simply will not meet at the ridge and it will be extremely difficult to correct this.

Therefore, if you know special programs, create a 3D model of the future roof directly in them, and if not, then just prepare a detailed drawing and it’s good if a professional helps you with this. All the details of such a roof must be calculated - down to the smallest detail!

By the way, today it is quite fashionable to make not only the roof hipped, but also its individual functional elements:

Stage II. Preparation of structural elements

So, if you have taken a ready-made roof drawing or sketched it yourself and are confident in the future quality, it’s time to prepare the necessary elements of the rafter system. And to do this, first let’s figure out how they are called correctly.

So, the first thing you have to take care of before building a hip roof is Mauerlat. This is a square or rectangular beam that you will lay on the top of the walls around the entire perimeter of the house. It will become a support for the rafters, which will transfer the load to it, and it is this board that will evenly distribute the weight of the entire roof onto the walls of the house and the foundation. The ideal option is to use a beam with a section of 15 by 10 cm as a mauerlat.

Next you will build rafter legs - this is the main element that will create the roof slope. Standard rafters are made from boards 50 by 150 mm, and diagonal ones - 100 by 150 mm.

You will also need puffs, the main task of which is to prevent the rafter legs from moving to the sides. You will fix the puffs themselves and connect them with the lower ends, and for this, stock up on boards measuring 50 by 150 meters.

But from above, both the diagonal rafter legs and the standard rafters will converge and be secured to each other in skate. To do this, take a beam 150 by 100 mm.

Next, in the center of the two opposite sides there should be a transverse beam - sill, which serves as a support for the racks, and they, in turn, support the ridge girder. A timber with a cross section of 100 by 100 mm or 100 by 150 mm is suitable for this purpose.

Slopes will become a support for the rafters, which prevents them from moving. You should install them at an angle to the stand; to do this, take the same material as for the bench.

Don't forget also about wind board- this is a horizontal element that connects all the lower ends of the rafters. You will need to nail it to the rafters along the inner perimeter of the roof and in this way emphasize the line of the slope. A 100 by 50 mm board is suitable for this purpose.

But for the outside you will need another board - filly, from the same material. This board received such a strange name from the times when it was carved in the form of horse faces.

But the most unusual and complex element of a hipped roof is truss, which gives rigidity to the entire structure. Its main task is to connect all horizontal and vertical elements. It is also mounted at an angle, and is made of 100 by 100 mm timber:

And finally, if we are talking specifically about a hip roof, then the only element that is present exclusively in hip roofs is narozhniki. They are shortened rafters that rest on a diagonal rafter leg. You can make them from a 50 by 150 mm board.

In life, all these elements look like this:

Also think about insulation, waterproofing film and additional roofing elements:

Stage III. Installation of attic floor

Often the headstocks of hanging rafters or hangers, which work in tension in a hip roof, must be made of steel. To do this, special wooden purlins are suspended perpendicularly to the clamps of the wooden rafters.

And they are already suspended perpendicular to the purlins wooden beams, after which beamless lightweight fillings are laid between them. Therefore, if you want to reduce the roof load on the hanging rafters or roof truss, you need to choose suspended floor structures.

For steel trusses, the suspended ceiling must be made fireproof, using steel beams. Prefabricated reinforced concrete slabs should be laid between such beams, and light insulation should be placed on them. To increase the fire resistance and durability of such load-bearing structures, they must be made of reinforced concrete. Moreover, the most reinforced concrete bearing structures It is better to make it from large-sized factory-made panels so as not to take risks.

Stage IV. Installation of ridge girder

When calculating the ridge run, take into account the following nuances:

1. If the building has permanent longitudinal walls, or at least two rows of internal pillars, then two purlins are made. At the same time, many rafter structures can be composite along their length, and crossbars are used to increase rigidity.
2. If the building does not have internal supports, then it will not be possible to make inclined rafters here. Therefore, special construction trusses are used, to which the attic floor is simply suspended. In this case, the rods, which are located along the upper contour of the trusses, form the upper chord of the construction truss, and along the lower contour - the lower chord. The truss lattice itself now forms vertical rods and braces - inclined rods that are located between the upper and lower chords. Moreover, such trusses are not necessarily made only of wood; on the contrary, steel reinforced concrete ones are quite popular today. During the construction process, the trusses are installed at a distance of 4-6 meters from each other. The simplest version of such trusses are truss trusses, which consist of rafter legs, a vertical suspension, headstock and tie rods.
3. If the width of the building is large enough, construction trusses or truss supports are used during installation. But then the attic floor cannot be covered with beams that will rest on the walls alone. Such a structure must be suspended on steel clamps to the lower chord of the truss, or to a tie, in order to thus form suspended ceilings.

This photo illustration clearly shows exactly how the rafters need to be attached to the ridge and ridges:

Stage V. Installation of standard and diagonal rafters

So, the diagonal rafter legs rest directly on the ridge, depending on the following conditions:

1. If there is only one ridge girder in the middle of the roof, then the diagonal leg must be placed on the girder console. They are specially produced for this purpose 15 centimeters behind the fake frame, and then the excess is sawed off.
2. If there are two purlins, then you need to install a truss structure of a horizontal beam and a rack on them, and then secure the slanted rafters themselves.
3. If the beam is strong, made of timber, and not of boards, then it makes sense to make a break - a short board at least 5 centimeters thick. And the slanted rafters of the hip roof should be supported on it.

Additionally, for reliability, the slanted rafters are secured with metal wire twisted several times.

On the ribs, the installation of ridge elements must be done in the same sequence as on a regular roof ridge. Those. install the rib element with a closed end, place the ridge elements in the lock and secure them mechanically. But at the intersection of the ribs and the ridge of a hip roof, it is customary to install Y-shaped ridge elements, although starting and ending ridge elements can also be used instead.

But only cut them along the contour when they are secured to the edge, and mechanically secure the joints. Be sure to treat with primer and mineral coating from the standard repair kit. Also, when installing ridge elements, do not forget to leave a gap on the ribs or ridges of a hipped roof to allow air to escape from the under-roof space.

All the same principles must be observed when building a hipped roof of complex shape:

You can do it! Please ask your questions in the comments.

Construction of a frame for a roof with four slopes is a complex process with characteristic technological features. During construction, our own structural components are used, the sequence of work is different. But the result will amaze with its spectacular shape and durability when repelling atmospheric attacks. And the home master will be able to be proud of his personal achievements in the field of roofing.

However, before deciding to install such a design, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the algorithm according to which the rafter system of a hipped roof is constructed and with the specifics of its design.

The class of hipped roofs combines two types of structures that resemble a square and rectangular envelope in plan. The first variety is called tent, the second - hip. Compared to their pitched counterparts, they are distinguished by the absence of pediments, called gables in the roofing industry. In the construction of both versions of hipped structures, layered and hanging rafters are used, the installation of which is carried out in accordance with standard technologies for the construction of pitched rafter systems.

Characteristic differences within the four-slope class:

• In a hip roof, all four slopes have the shape of isosceles triangles, the vertices of which converge at one highest point. There is no ridge as such in a tent structure; its function is performed by the central support in layered systems or the top of a hanging truss.
• For a hip roof, a pair of main slopes has a trapezoidal configuration, and the second pair has a triangular configuration. The hip structure differs from its tent-type counterpart in the obligatory presence of a ridge, to which the trapezoids are adjacent at the upper bases. Triangular slopes, also known as hips, are adjacent to the ridge at the top, and their sides are connected to the inclined sides of the trapezoids.

Based on the configuration of the roofs in plan, it is clear that hip structures are usually erected over square buildings, and hip structures over rectangular houses. Both soft and . Characteristic square or rectangular shape repeat the drawings of the rafter system of a hipped roof with a clearly marked arrangement of elements in the plan and vertical projections of the slopes.

Often, hip and hip systems are used together in the construction of one building or effectively complement gable, lean-to, sloping and other roofs.

Structures with four slopes can rest directly on the upper crown wooden house or on a mauerlat, which serves as the top frame of brick or concrete walls. If upper and lower supports can be found for each rafter, the roof frame is constructed using layered technology.

Installation of layered rafter legs is simpler and more accessible for an inexperienced home roofer, who needs to take into account that:

• With rigid fastening of the upper and lower heels of the rafters metal corners or using a supporting wooden plate, reinforced fastening of the Mauerlat will be required, because the thrust will be transferred to it.
• If the upper heel is rigidly fixed and the bottom of the rafter is hinged, there is no need to strengthen the fastening of the Mauerlate, because if the load on the roof is exceeded, a hinged fastening, for example on sliders, will allow the rafter to move slightly without creating pressure on the mauerlat.
• When the top of the rafters is hinged and the bottom is rigidly fixed, expansion and pressure on the Mauerlat are also eliminated.

Issues of fastening the Mauerlat and the closely related method of installing rafter legs according to the rules are resolved at the stage of designing a house. If the building does not have an internal load-bearing wall or it is not possible to build reliable supports for the central part of the roof; nothing will work except for a hanging rafter system assembly diagram. True, in most cases the layered construction method is used, for the implementation of which it is necessary to provide in advance a load-bearing support inside the structure.

In the construction of rafter systems for hipped and hipped roofs, specific structural elements, This:

• Diagonal rafter legs forming the spinal connections of the slopes. In hip structures, diagonals, also known as slanted rafters, connect the ridge girder consoles to the corners of the roof. In tent systems, sloping legs connect the top to the corners.
• Spreaders, or rafter half-legs, installed perpendicular to the eaves. They rest on diagonal rafters and are located parallel to each other, therefore they differ in different lengths. Narozhniki form the planes of tent and hip slopes.

Diagonal rafters and flanges are also used for the construction of valleys, only then concave corners of the roof are arranged, and not convex ones like hip ones.

The whole difficulty of constructing frames for roofs with four slopes lies in the installation of diagonal rafters, which determine the result of the formation of the structure. In addition, the slopes must withstand a load one and a half times greater than ordinary rafters of pitched roofs. Because they also work as a hobbyhorse, i.e. support for the upper heel of the runners.

If we briefly describe the procedure for constructing a layered frame for a hipped roof, then it can be done in several stages:

• Construction of a mauerlat on brick or concrete walls. The process of installing a mauerlat on walls made of logs or timber can be eliminated, because it can be successfully replaced by the upper crown.
• Installation of the central support for the hip structure or the supporting frame of the main part of the hip roof.
• Installation of conventional layered rafters: a pair for a hip roof and a row determined by the design solution for a hip structure.
• Installation of diagonal rafter legs connecting the corners of the systems with the top of the support or the extreme points of the ridge.
• Manufacturing to size and fastening of spigots.

In the case of using a hanging frame scheme, the start of the construction of the tent frame will be the installation of a triangular truss in the center. The installation of a four-slope hip rafter system will begin with the installation of a number of roof trusses.

Construction of a hip rafter system

Let's look at one of the common examples of a hip roof with layered rafter legs. They will have to rely on floor beams laid on top of the mauerlat. Rigid fastening with a notch will be used only to fix the top of the rafter legs on the ridge girder, so there is no need to strengthen the Mauerlat fasteners. The dimensions of the box of the house shown in the example are 8.4 × 10.8 m. The actual dimensions of the roof in plan will increase on each side by the amount of the eaves overhang, by 40-50 cm.

Installation of the base according to the Mauerlat

Mauerlat is a purely individual element; the method of its installation depends on the material of the walls and the architectural features of the building. The method of laying the Mauerlat is planned according to the rules during the design period, because for reliable fixation Mauerlat recommended:

• Lightweight foam concrete, gas silicate and similar walls should be equipped with a reinforced reinforced concrete belt, poured around the perimeter, with anchors installed during the pouring period to secure the Mauerlat.
• Edge the brick walls with a side of one or two bricks along the outer edge so that a ledge is formed along the inner edge for laying wooden frame. During laying, wooden plugs are placed between the bricks to secure the Mauerlat with staples to the wall.

The mauerlat is made from timber measuring 150×150 or 100×150mm. If you intend to use the under-roof space, it is advisable to take thicker beams. The timber is connected into a single frame with oblique cuts. Then the connection areas are reinforced with self-tapping screws, ordinary nails or wood grouse, and the corners are reinforced with staples.

Floor beams are laid on top of the horizontally leveled mauerlat, constructed in the optimal way for a particular building. A beam with a cross section of 100×200mm is used. The first step is to lay a beam running exactly along the central axis of the building. In the example, the length of the timber is not enough to construct solid beams, so they are assembled from two beams. The docking point must be located above a reliable support. In the example, the support is an internal load-bearing wall.

The pitch between the floor beams is 60 cm. If the box being equipped does not have ideal parameters, as is the case in most situations, the distance between the beams can be changed slightly. Such an adjustment allows you to slightly “smooth out” the flaws in construction. Between the outer beams on both sides and the walls of the house there should be a gap of 90 cm wide, necessary for installing the outriggers.

Because the floor beams can independently form only two eaves overhangs; short half-beams of the floor - extensions - are attached to their ends. They are first installed only in the area of ​​the main part of the hip roof, exactly where the rafter legs are to be installed. The extension is nailed to the mauerlat, fastened to the beam with screws, large-caliber nails, dowels, and the fasteners are reinforced with corners.

Construction of the ridge part

The central part of the hip roof is an ordinary gable structure. The rafter system for it is arranged according to the rules dictated by. In the example there are some deviations from the classical interpretation of the pitched principle: the bed on which supports for the ridge run are traditionally installed is not used. The work of the beam will have to be done by the central floor beam.

In order to build the ridge part of the hip roof rafter system you need to:

• Build a support frame for the rafter legs, the top of which will rest on the ridge girder. The purlin will rest on three supports, the central one of which is installed directly on the central floor beam. To install the two outer supports, first two cross beams are laid, covering at least five floor beams. Stability is increased with the help of two struts. For the manufacture of horizontal and vertical parts of the supporting frame, a block with a cross-section of 100x150mm was used, the struts were made of boards 50x150mm.
• Make rafter legs, for which you first need to make a template. A board of suitable size is applied to the installation site, and lines for future cuts are drawn on it. This will be the template for the continuous production of rafters.
• Install the rafter legs, resting them with the notch on the ridge girder, and with the lower heel on the stem located opposite.

If the floor beams were laid across the frame, then the rafters of the main part of the roof would rest on the floor beams, which is much more reliable. However, in the example they rest on the stem, so it is necessary to arrange additional mini-supports for them. These supports should be positioned so that the load from them and the rafters located above is transferred to the walls.

Then three rows of outriggers are installed on each of the four sides. For the convenience of further actions, the roof contour is formed with a cornice board. It must be nailed to the floor beams and extensions strictly horizontally.

Installation of corner extensions

In the space limited by the eaves board, there were corner areas left unfilled with parts of the rafter system. Here you will need corner offsets, for installation of which is carried out as follows:

• To indicate the direction of installation, pull the string. We stretch from the point of conditional intersection of the outer support of the frame with the floor beam to the corner.
• On top of the lace we place the block in its proper place. Holding the block, we draw cut lines from below where the block intersects the floor beam and the corner connection of the eaves boards.
• We attach the finished stem with sawn off excess to the mauerlat and to the floor beam with corners.

The remaining three corner extensions are manufactured and installed in the same way.

Installation of diagonal rafters

Diagonal, or also slanted, rafter legs are made from two boards sewn together with a cross-section equal to the size of ordinary rafters. In the example, one of the boards will be located slightly higher than the second due to the difference in the angles of inclination of the hips and trapezoidal slopes.

Sequence of work for the manufacture and installation of slopes:

• From the highest point of the skate, we stretch the lace to the corners and to the central point of the slope. These are auxiliary lines along which we will mark upcoming cuts.
• Using a carpenter's goniometer, we measure the angle between the lace and the upper side of the corner stem. This is how the angle of the bottom cut is determined. Let's assume it is equal to α. The angle of the upper cut is calculated using the formula β = 90º – α.
• At an angle β we cut off one edge of a random piece of board. We apply it to the place of the upper fastening, aligning the edge of this workpiece with the lace. We outline the excesses that interfere with a tight installation. You need to cut again along the marked lines.
• At an angle α we saw off the lower heel on another piece of board.
• We make the first half of the diagonal rafter using templates for the upper and lower support. If a solid board is not long enough, you can join two pieces together. They can be spliced ​​using a meter-long piece of inch mounted on self-tapping screws; it should be placed on the outside of the bevel leg being constructed. We install the finished first part.
• We make the second part of the sloped rafter in the same way, but keep in mind that it should be slightly lower than its first half. The area where the boards are joined into one element should not coincide with the area where the boards are joined in the first half of the slope.
• We sew two boards with nails at intervals of 40-50 cm.
• Along the cord stretched to the center of the slope, we draw a line along which it will be necessary to adjust the cut to connect it with the adjacent rafter.

Following the described algorithm, you need to install three more diagonal legs. Supports should be installed under each of them at the point where the corner extensions are connected to the beams. If the span is more than 7.5 m, another support is installed diagonally closer to the ridge.

Manufacturing and installation of hip rafters

The lace between the top of the skate and the center of the slope is already stretched. It served as an axis for outlining the cuts, and now you need to measure the angle γ using it and calculate the angle δ = 90º – γ. Without deviating from the proven path, we prepare templates for the upper and lower supports. We apply the top trim to the place intended for it and mark the cut lines on it for a tight fit between the diagonal rafters. Using the blanks, we make the central leg of the hip and fix it where it should be.

We install short extensions in the space between the corner extensions and the cornice board to add rigidity to the structure and to ensure strong fixation of the outermost, shortest extensions. Next, you should start making templates for the makers themselves:

• We cut the piece of board at an angle δ and attach it to the place of attachment to the diagonal rafter.
• We outline the excess that needs to be cut down again. The resulting template is used in the manufacture of all flaps, for example the right side of the hip. For the left part, the upper template will be filed from the opposite side.
• As a template for the lower heel of the splices, we use a piece of board sawn off at an angle γ. If all previous steps were performed correctly, then this template is used to make the lower attachment points for all other springs.

In accordance with the actual length and “indications” of the templates, the splices are made, which are necessary for forming the planes of the hips and the parts of the main slopes that are not filled with ordinary rafter legs. They are installed so that the upper fastening points of the spigots to the diagonal rafters are spaced apart, i.e. the upper connecting nodes of adjacent slopes should not converge in one place. The splices are attached to the slanted rafter leg with corners, to the floor beams and outriggers in the way that is more reasonable and convenient: with corners or metal toothed plates.

The technology for installing a hip roof is based on the already familiar hip principles. True, there is no ridge part of the rafter system in their design. The construction begins with the installation of a central support, to which the rafters are attached, and then the frames. If hanging technology is used in the construction of an envelope roof, then the finished truss is installed first.

We invite you to take advantage of our free online calculator for calculations of building materials when installing a hip roof - and follow the instructions.

Useful video instructions

The video will briefly introduce the sequence and rules for installing the rafter system of a hipped roof of the hip and hip categories:

Having become familiar with the specifics of the device and having mastered the intricacies of installing roofs with four slopes, you can safely begin to implement plans for its construction.

The labor intensity of the work when building a hipped roof is not much higher than a regular gable roof, but this does not mean that a hipped roof can be built with your own hands as simply as a regular one, with two symmetrical slopes. The main difficulty is that a hip roof requires very precise engineering calculations and knowledge of technology, especially if you do not have good practice in building this kind of roof.

Why is a house with a hipped roof better than a gable roof?

Why regular gable roof They are installed mainly on simple outbuildings, and for residential premises they choose a hipped roof:

• The appearance of the hipped roof option looks much nicer and more elegant than the double structure;
• Even a simple hipped roof can withstand the elements much better due to smoother contours and aerodynamics. Even in the strongest winds, the rafters of the frame remain almost equally loaded, due to the correct balancing of the diagonal rafters;
• Two additional slopes shed water better, dry under the influence of the wind and thereby protect the roof of the house from flowing, as happens with straight gables. Thus, significantly higher thermal insulation and frost resistance are achieved for a hipped roof.

Important! The four-slope roof structure, unlike the “kopeck piece”, has high degree adaptation.

For climates with big amount precipitation, the Danish version with steep main slopes and two hips is perfect for steppe zone with strong winds, a low tent frame with large overhangs and an average angle of inclination.

It will be most convenient to use a hipped roof in houses where attic space is not allocated as a residential area, but is used for economic purposes. Due to the appearance of two additional slopes, space and effective area the attic is reduced by approximately 25%. But if desired and the size of the attic space is sufficient, you can equip a small room instead of an attic, even with windows and a balcony, as in the photo.

But in this case, instead of a simple system of vertical posts on which the ridge girder rests, additional horizontal beams - crossbars - will need to be installed in the structure of the hipped roof, which will play the role of a ceiling for the attic space.

How to make a hip roof

First of all, it’s worth understanding how a 4-slope roof differs in detail from the double-slope version.

The main difference between a 4-slope rafter system and a double symmetrical roof

The differences in design will be most obvious in the diagram with a simple rectangular version of the hipped roof shown in the photo:

Important! Most elements of additional slopes require very careful adjustment, so often diagonal rafters and frames are assembled with a preliminary “grab” using self-tapping screws, and only after final adjustment they are replaced with a bolted connection or knocked down with nails.

Do-it-yourself hipped roof, sequence of work

The most difficult part in building a rafter system for a hipped roof is the stage of hanging the diagonal rafters. Firstly, the angle of inclination of the diagonal rafters and the pressure with which they rest on the ridge girder must be equal to the parameters of the pair of rafters on the other side. The areas of the slopes and the angles of inclination in a hipped roof must be absolutely equal.

Secondly, an imaginary line drawn between the joining points or vertices of the triangles formed by the diagonal rafters on both sides must run exactly along the axis of the ridge beam, both horizontally and vertically. The main difficulty in assembling a hipped roof is to correctly align and adjust the position of the diagonal rafters.

At the preparation stage for assembling a hipped roof, a board or mauerlat beam is laid, and it is important to carefully level the plane of the board horizontally. Preliminary markings of places for installation of side rafters, truss supports and tightening are applied to the Mauerlat. Installation of a hipped roof is greatly simplified if a reinforced concrete slab is used as the ceiling.

After laying out and fastening the tightening, the ridge frame or “bench” is assembled. Essentially, this is a ridge beam installed on vertical posts. Longitudinal and transverse struts are sewn to the posts, ensuring the stability of the frame until the hip rafters are assembled.

Before laying out the diagonal rafters, the ridge frame must be supported with a pair of temporary beams, which are attached to the mauerlat and to the outer post of the “bench”. This will prevent the ridge frame from tipping over under the pressure of the diagonal rafters on the other side.

Next comes the most difficult part. First, the actual length of each of the sloped beams is determined; for this, a nail is hammered into the fulcrum at the end of the ridge beam and the length from the nail to the fulcrum on the mauerlat is measured with a cord. Before installing the diagonals, each of the slanted rafters is measured and cut according to its cord length.

Having installed the bevel elements on the Mauerlat, determine the line of contact and the cut of the contact surface. Having trimmed the support plane of the slope beams, they are laid on the end of the ridge girder.

The lower ends of the diagonal beams are installed in the corner joint of the mauerlat beam with an undercut of the supporting surface of the beam according to the diagram shown. Sometimes the shape of the cut is made according to a template, but it is safer to mark the cut line manually.

Ideally, an imaginary vertical plane drawn through any sloping rafter should be parallel to the plane of the sloping beam located on the opposite side of the hipped roof.

If everything is done correctly, the two diagonal rafters of the hipped roof will be exactly along the axis of the ridge beam. To avoid deflection, long enough braces need to be installed with struts and truss supports with the installation of temporary fasteners made of self-tapping screws. Similarly, install the rafters from the opposite slope and align the elements with maximum accuracy. To increase the rigidity of the hip slopes, several flanges are cut out and installed at the edges of the diagonal beams.

Then they move on to laying ordinary rafter beams. Fastening to the Mauerlat is carried out using a standard bolt-nut connection or using steel angles. In the upper part, the rafter board is usually sawed down according to a template and laid on the ridge beam.

Usually, after hanging the rows on the ridge girder and the mauerlat, additional crossbars are installed in the upper part, which reduce the bursting effect of the frame of the hipped roof. After installing all the rafter beams and aligning the main strength elements hipped frame proceed to the capital fastening of all rafters on the mauerlat and ridge girder.

At the next stage, struts are installed and fastened under the ordinary rafters, and the triangular slopes are “filled” with external beams. Each of the splices is cut to its own length according to the diagram below and installed in a checkerboard pattern, this allows you to avoid weakening of the beam due to the coincidence of the cuts on opposite sides.

All elements are secured with nails, self-tapping screws and bolted connections with overhead steel plates and angles.

Final operations

After assembling the main frame of the hipped roof, fillets are stuffed onto the ends of the rafters - short boards that form a row of roof overhangs along the wall. The cut line is measured along the ends of the fillies, trimmed so that the ends are in the same plane, and the cornice board is sewn on. The lower part of the fillies is lined with clapboard or regular board.

After treating the wood of the beams with an antiseptic composition, they proceed to stuffing the sheathing boards. The thickness of the boards, the amount of material and the nailing points are chosen based on what kind of roofing they plan to lay on a given hipped roof.

Conclusion

The hipped roof is deservedly considered one of the most convenient and practical roof structures. If you are planning to build a hipped version with your own hands, in addition to correctly calculating the structure, you will need experience in leveling and adjusting the position of each of the beams. Therefore, it would be right to get the necessary experience and skill in working with hipped roofs from more experienced craftsmen.

Many people like houses with hipped roofs. Even though they require the most materials, and therefore the most money, they are popular. Firstly, because they give even a simple “box” more interesting view. Secondly, because they are durable and reliable. And even though the rafter system of a hipped roof is one of the most complex, it can be developed and made with your own hands.

Types of hipped roofs

Hip roofs are the most expensive and difficult to install. But despite this, they were and remain popular. And all because they look more attractive than all other types of roofing, they have a high mechanical strength, resist wind and snow loads well. A house with a hipped roof or even a gazebo looks “more solid” than any other.

Even a simple “box” under a 4-pitch roof looks impressive

There are two main types of 4-pitch roofs: hip and hip. The hip roof is suitable for square buildings, the hip one - for rectangular ones. In a hip roof, all four slopes look like triangles and they all converge at one point - in the center of the square.

The classic hip roof has two slopes in the form of trapezoids that converge at the ridge. These slopes are located along the long side of the rectangle. The other two slopes are triangles that are adjacent to the extreme points of the ridge beam.

Despite the fact that there are four slopes in any case, the design and calculation of these roofs are different. The assembly order is also different.

Half-hip

Hip roofing is much more common - after all, there are much more rectangular buildings than square ones. There are several more varieties of it. For example, half-hip ones - Danish and Dutch.

Half-hip roofs - Danish and Dutch

They are good because they make it possible to install full-fledged windows in the vertical part of the side slopes. This allows you to use the under-roof space as a living space. Of course, compared to a full second floor, there is less living space, but construction costs are also not so high.

Slope angle and roof height

The angle of inclination of a hipped roof is determined based on snow and wind loads in your region. The higher the snow load, the higher the ridge must be raised so that the slope is steeper and the snow does not linger in large volumes. In strong winds, on the contrary, the ridge is lowered lower to reduce the area of ​​the slopes and, consequently, the wind load.

Even when choosing the angle of inclination of the roof slopes, they are guided by aesthetic and practical considerations. With aesthetics, everything is more or less clear - the building should look proportional. And it looks better with fairly high roofs - 0.5-0.8 of the height of the first (or only) floor.

Practical considerations come in two directions. First, if the under-roof space is planned to be used as a living space, pay attention to the area that will be comfortable for use. It is more or less comfortable to be in a room with a ceiling height of 1.9 m. And even then, this is for people of average height. If your height is higher than 175 cm, you will have to raise the bar.

On the other hand, the greater the height of the roof, the more materials will be required for its manufacture. And this is the second one practical aspect, which needs to be taken into account.

There is one more point that should be taken into account: roofing materials have a minimum and maximum slope angle with which this coating can “work”. If you have a specific preference for the type roofing material, take this factor into account. This determines the height to which the rafter system of a hipped roof should be raised (relative to the walls).

Hip type hip roof rafter system

If they make a hipped roof, most often it is hip roof. Let's talk about it first. The central part of the rafter system repeats the system one to one. The system can also be with layered or hanging rafters. Hanging rafters are installed “in place” - on the roof; two people are enough for such work. Layered roof trusses, in the form of triangles, can be assembled on the ground, and then, ready, lifted and installed. In this case, there is less work at height, but to lift and install ready-made trusses, you need either equipment (a crane) or a team of four or more people.

The main differences between the rafter system of a hip roof are in those places where the rafters are shortened (rafter half-legs) and a hip is formed - triangular slopes. Here diagonal rafters are installed, which are also called rafters. They rely on external or internal corners buildings are longer than ordinary rafter legs. Particular attention should be paid to diagonal rafters, since they carry one and a half loads (when compared with neighboring rafters). Therefore, the corner rafter legs are made reinforced - they are assembled from two boards, joining them in width using nails. Also, to support the diagonal rafter legs, additional racks and slopes are installed, which are called a truss block.

Another rafter system for a hip-type hipped roof is distinguished by the fact that the Mauerlat is laid around the perimeter of the building, and not just along the long sides of the box. This is understandable - the rafters are located along the perimeter, and not just on two sides, as in a gable roof.

Mauerlat- element of the roofing system of a building. It is a beam or log laid on top along the perimeter outer wall. Serves as the extreme lower support for the rafters.

Diagonal rafters

As already mentioned, slanted (corner) rafters carry an increased load: from the shortened rafters of the side slopes and from the hips. In addition, the length of the diagonal rafters of a hip roof usually exceeds the standard length of lumber - it is more than 6 meters, so they are made spliced ​​and doubled (paired). This solves two problems at once: we obtain a beam of the required length and increase its load-bearing capacity. Two paired boards can withstand greater loads than a solid beam of the same section. And one more point: spliced ​​beams for slanted rafters are made of the same material as ordinary rafter legs. It's cheaper, and you don't need to look for special material.

If spliced ​​beams are used, diagonal rafters are usually secured by installing struts and/or trusses (racks).

• If the length of the beam is up to 7.5 m, one strut is sufficient, which rests on the upper part of the beam.
• For lengths from 7.5 m to 9 m, an additional stand or truss is installed. These supports are placed at the bottom, 1/4 of the length of the rafters.
• When the length of the inclined rafter is more than 9 meters, a third, intermediate support is needed - a stand that supports the middle of the purlin.

Sprengel- a special system that consists of a beam resting on two adjacent external walls. A stand rests on this beam, supported on both sides by slopes (the slopes are installed if necessary).

A truss truss is usually not considered, but is made from the same materials as the truss system. For the beam itself 150*100 mm, for the racks - 100*100 mm, for the slopes - 50*100 mm. This can be a beam of a suitable cross-section or spliced ​​beams.

Supporting the rafter leg

The upper end of the diagonal rafter legs rests on the ridge beam. The exact execution of this assembly depends on the type of system and the number of runs.

If there is only one purlin, the consoles are made 10-15 cm longer than the rafter frame. If such an outlet is too large, it is then trimmed. But it’s not worth making it shorter - growing it is much more difficult and expensive. The slanted diagonal legs will rest at this point.

The rafters are cut at the desired angle and joined on the console. Fastened with nails. The connection can be strengthened using metal overlay plates.

If there are two ridge spans (done if residential premises are planned mansard type), the connection method depends on the material from which the rafters are made:

• If spliced ​​boards are used, a truss is required, which rests on the outriggers of the ridge girders. Diagonal rafters are trimmed and supported on a truss post.
• If timber is used, a crimp is installed at the point of support - a piece of board at least 50 mm thick. The board is attached with nails to two purlins, and to this board there are already rafter legs that will form a hip.

The lower part of the slanted rafter legs is trimmed horizontally and attached to the mauerlat or trim board. For greater reliability of the unit, you can install an additional oblique beam and fix the corner beam to it (in the figure below).

Fastening - with nails on both sides; if necessary, it can be additionally secured with wire twists or clamps.

How to attach sprigs and half-legs

Shortened rafters of the side slopes (also called half-legs) are attached to the installed diagonal rafter legs on one side, and on the other side - rafters that form a hip. They must be placed in such a way that the joints do not coincide. Sometimes for this you have to change the distance between the external rafters (preferably in the direction of decreasing the pitch).

Typically, shortened rafters are trimmed and secured with 2-3 nails on both sides. This type of fastening is sufficient in most cases. But, if you want to do it “correctly”, under each rafter you need to make a “notch” - a notch no more than half the thickness of the beam. The rafters are trimmed, installed in the desired position, and the desired contour is drawn on the beam (an uneven trapezoid is obtained due to different connection angles). A recess is cut out along the resulting contour, into which the half-leg is inserted, after which it is secured with nails on both sides. This is a complex knot, and it takes a long time to do. But load bearing capacity such a connection is much higher. There is another option, which is much simpler in execution, but differs little in reliability.

The optimal way to attach the splints and half-legs to the mowing beam is to fasten them on nails with the additional installation of cranial bars (see figure above). For this, a beam with a cross section of 50*50 mm is used, which is nailed along the lower edge of the beam between the fixed rafters. In this version, the beam becomes an I-beam, which greatly increases its elasticity and increases its load-bearing capacity.

How to fasten the lower ends of the rafters

The method of fastening the lower ends of the rafters depends on what type of rafter system of the hipped roof is chosen - with hanging or layered rafters, and what kind of scheme is used. A system with sliding rafters (usually used for buildings for which thrust loads are contraindicated - wooden, frame, lightweight concrete) is implemented using special metal fasteners. They consist of two parts. One is installed on the embedded board, the second - on the rafters. They are connected to each other movably - using a long slot or plate.

With this device, when the load changes, the roof “plays back” - the rafters move relative to the walls. There are no thrust loads; the entire mass of the roof and precipitation is transferred vertically downwards to the walls. This fastening allows you to compensate for uneven loads that arise when complex device roofs (with junctions in the form of the letter G or T).

Rigid fastening can be done in different ways - with a cutout for the Mauerlat/tying board or with a hemmed support bar. Fastening is usually done with nails; it can be reinforced with metal plates and corners.

The connection with the cutout is made if the roof has a hipped roof with an outlet - overhangs. Usually the overhangs are quite large and, in order not to buy long beams, they are extended by adding boards that are nailed right through to the bottom of the beams. This allows you to make the overhangs as long as you want without overspending on materials.

Danish half hip roof

The rafter system of a Danish-type hipped roof differs from the classic hip roof. The difference is in the design of the hip - here, at some distance from the ridge, it is stuffed support board at least 5 cm thick. Diagonal double rafters are attached to this board. How low to lower the support board is your choice. But the lower the board is lowered, the smaller the angle this slope will have, and the worse the precipitation will be. If the half-hip area is large, you will have to calculate the load and select the thickness of the rafters.

But the low-lowered support board allows you to place horizontal window sufficient area. This is beneficial if there is a living space under a hipped hip roof.

To prevent the crimp (a board connecting two opposite rafter legs) from bending from downward loads, a short piece is installed - a piece of the same board that is nailed to the post supporting the ridge beam. The same stops are made on the edges of the grooves, securing the short ones well with nails (installation step is staggered every 5-10 cm).

With such a device, it is necessary to strengthen the attachment points of the layered rafters, since the load from them is transferred to the outer pair of rafter legs. Two methods of amplification are used:

• The outer rafters are made double.
• Install struts from double boards. The lower part of the strut rests on the bench or stand. They are fastened with nails, and the joints are reinforced by installing cuttings of boards.

If the house is rectangular in shape and the hips are not too wide, you can either install braces or make the outer rafters from double beams. Otherwise, the rafter system of a half-hip Danish type hip roof is assembled in exactly the same way as described above.

Construction of a 4 pitched hipped roof using the example of a gazebo

For a square gazebo 4.5*4.5 meters, we made a hip roof covered soft tiles. The slope angle chosen was “floor material”, taking into account snow and wind loads - 30°. Since the structure is small, it was decided to make a simple system (in the figure below). The distance between the rafter legs is 2.25 m. For rafter lengths up to 3.5 m, a board of 40 * 200 mm is needed. A 90*140 mm beam was used for the strapping.

We assembled the rafter system on the ground, secured it to support posts, then installed a continuous flooring made of, then -.

First, we assembled the harness that will be attached to the support posts. Next, we installed rafters that rest on the middle of the frame. The procedure here is as follows: in the middle we place a stand, on top of which the rafter legs will be joined. IN this option This rack is temporary, we only need it for a while - until we connect the first four rafters in the center. In other cases - for larger houses - this rack can remain.

We take a board of the required section, lean it against the rack in the place where they will connect (depending on desired angle tilt). We mark how it should be cut (at the top, at the joint and where it joins the harness). We cut off everything unnecessary, try it on again, and adjust if necessary. Next, using this blank, we make three more of the same kind.

Now you can begin to assemble the rafter system of the hipped hipped roof. The most questions arise about the junction of the rafter legs in the center. The optimal way - reliable and not too complicated - is to take a piece of timber of a suitable cross-section, make an octagon out of it - for joining eight rafter legs (four corner and four central).

The size of the edges is according to the cross-section of the rafter legs

Having fixed all four central elements of the rafter system with nails, we perform the same operations with the corner rafters: we take one, try it on, cut it out, make three copies using the template we made, and mount it.

Using the same principle, we make half-legs (shortened rafters). If desired, all connections can be further strengthened with corners or metal plates, then the rafter system of the hipped roof will be more reliable and you will not be afraid even in the heaviest snowfalls.

We install the assembled system on the gazebo posts, fasten it with nails, corners, and secure it with slopes. After this, you can install the sheathing (in this case, solid) and lay the roofing material.

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At the final stage of building construction, it is necessary to equip the roof. There are a large number of its design solutions, but among the variety, owners of private cottages often prefer the construction of a hipped roof. This type of roofing is characterized by its complexity installation work, but the result exceeds all expectations, since the design has excellent appearance, thanks to many variations, as you can see by looking at the photo. In addition, the hipped roof has a long service life.

Variety of hip roofs

When deciding how to make a hip roof of a house, you need to consider possible options. Its main varieties are: tent, hip, half-hip.

Hip roof . Its design consists of four triangles, the vertices of which converge at a single point. The base of such a roof can be a square or a rectangle, and the slopes, respectively, can be equal in size or paired (more details: " ").

Hip roof . Building a hip roof of this type with your own hands seems difficult, but if you have the skills to create a conventional roof, this task is quite doable. When the base of the house has the shape of a rectangle, it is usually used hip structure. Two triangular planes are arranged at its ends, and two facade slopes are made in the form of a trapezoid. These two triangular shaped surfaces are called hips.

Design calculations for a hipped roof

Installation of a roof of this form cannot be implemented if there is no project for its construction.

The procedure for calculating a hip roof correctly is known only to employees of specialized design organizations. The technical documentation prepared by specialists contains drawings of the truss structure, its main connection points, a diagram of the roofing “pie” and other elements for arranging the roof.

When calculating strength indicators, it is taken into account that the rafter system is subject to constant (including the weight of the roof itself) and temporary loads. The latter factors include precipitation, strong winds, the weight of people inspecting or repairing the roof. The weight of the roof is determined by multiplying specific gravity each material used per surface area of ​​the slopes. To do this you need to know.

The rafters that are the most important detail rafter system is made of rectangular timber with a cross-section from 50 to 150 millimeters. Thanks to this element, the necessary rigidity is ensured, so the lumber for it must be made from high-quality wood, without defects.

The technology for how to build a hipped roof involves the sequence of installation of the truss structure. First, you need to install the mauerlat (the lower frame of the house roof), which is a support made of timber and logs. To check the correct installation of rafter system elements, use a building level (read also: " "). During installation, the Mauerlat is positioned so that the lower frame extends beyond the outer walls of the building by at least 40 centimeters along the perimeter of the building. To prevent the walls from getting wet, two layers of roofing material are laid between them and the Mauerlat. In wooden log houses, the lower frame of the rafter structures is the upper crown.

When the Mauerlat is laid, they begin to install frame rafter legs, which are called diagonal or slanted. To give additional strength, they are secured with racks or struts, and thus the structure has greater rigidity and the load is distributed evenly. If there is a need for this, side girders are built to support the rafters. They are also installed on three supports of the central beam - on both sides and in the center. Then the main frame is assembled, for this purpose the inclined rafters are secured to the support beams and at the same time to the ridge girder. The installation step does not exceed 50 centimeters, otherwise the structure will be fragile and will not be able to withstand external loads.

Rafter system of a hipped roof, detailed video instructions:

To avoid excessive vibration in windy weather and in order to increase the strength characteristics of the roofing system, you can fasten the external rafters together at a distance of one meter from the ridge girder, for which boards with a cross-section of at least 40x120 millimeters are suitable.

Before making a hipped roof, you need to make sure that the material for the inclined rafters does not have a shorter length than the calculated value. True, an absolutely precise selection regarding size is not required, since the rafter legs will be trimmed. When building a hipped roof, experts recommend using a lot of fasteners such as nails to ensure maximum reliability of the structure.

When the frame assembly is completed, they begin laying the roofing pie: vapor barrier, insulation, waterproofing and covering material. The choice of the latter depends on the angle of inclination of the slopes, and it must be selected first. Roll coating – perfect option For flat designs(5-18 degrees), and at 30-60 degrees use asbestos cement slate, corrugated sheet or metal tiles.

The amount of roofing material that needs to be purchased is determined based on the area of ​​the roof. Before calculating the area of ​​a hipped roof, the area of ​​each slope is calculated and the resulting result is summed up.

When creating a hipped roof, a decent result can only be obtained if you have a project and drawings.