Paving slabs when arranging paths in the country. High-quality laying of paving slabs with your own hands How to lay tiles on the street with your own hands

Paving slabs are a universal coating that is ideal for both garden paths, and for large areas for parking a car. Despite the need to adhere to the technology for laying this material, independent landscaping local area can be carried out by a person who has no experience working with building materials.

Following simple rules, which will be discussed in detail in this article, will allow you to avoid common mistakes when laying paving slabs, but before you start mastering them, you should familiarize yourself with the recommendations for choosing this material.

On the market building materials You can purchase the following types of paving slabs:

1. Rectangular bricks are the most common type. The area laid with such material resembles paving stones. Higher aesthetic qualities can be achieved by loosely laying such a coating.
2. "Gzhelka" - has a very attractive appearance. Typically, this type of paving slab has a rugged side surface that fits perfectly with adjacent tiles during installation. The tile has 2 elements that differ in size, which, when combined, form decorative coating. This material is ideal for sidewalks and areas in pedestrian areas.
3. “Clover” - resembles “Gzhelka” in its design, but this type of material has products of the same size.
4. "Maple leaf" - has high decorative qualities. It can be used with a single-color design, but a greater effect can be achieved if you use a two-color option for laying sidewalks and garden paths.
5. “Parquet” has a ribbed surface, so it is ideal as an anti-slip coating for paths and sidewalks.
6. “Wave” - has a wavy side surface, thanks to which a perfectly monolithic coating is obtained. Can be used both for arranging narrow paths and for laying on a large area.

All of the listed types of tiles can have different sizes. If the surface of the path or platform has a rectangular shape, then in this case you can use tiles large sizes. To design rounded areas and paths, it is better to choose small tiles.

The small-sized material allows you to create a very complex pattern, which is absolutely impossible to do when using large tiles.

Having a basic understanding of the types of this material, you can still do right choice material can be difficult. To make it as easy as possible this process, it is recommended to adhere to the following rules:

1. If you need to lay it down quickly paving slabs, then you should purchase products of the same size and rectangular shape. Material with patterned edges and different-sized products significantly increases the installation time.
2. When using tiles in conditions where moisture on the surface is subject to frequent cycles of freezing and thawing, it is recommended to use only frost-resistant material.
3. The color of the tile is of no small importance, but if the material is too bright, a lot of dye is added, the presence of which affects not only the price of the product, but also not in the best possible way affects its mechanical strength.
4. If you need to lay paving slabs in places where significant pressure will be exerted on the surface, then you should purchase products that are made by vibration pressing.

Materials required for installation

To properly lay paving slabs, you cannot do without using the following materials:

• border;
• cement;
• sand;
• crushed stone;
• geotextiles.

The amount of materials depends on the size of the area to be covered with tiles. In some cases, you can do without the use of curbs and geotextiles, but only on the condition that atmospheric moisture does not wash away the edges of the sidewalk or path too much. Cement for laying tiles is used grade M400, and crushed stone should not be larger than 40 mm. It is better to use river or washed sand.

Marking future paths

Before you begin laying tiles, it is recommended to draw a plan of the area where the path or platform will be located. The plan should indicate objects, trees or buildings in relation to which the distance will be measured for applying the main markings. Then you should draw the object itself, which will be built on the site. Only after such preparation can you begin the main work.

To mark a future path or site, you will need the following materials and tools:

• roulette;
• wooden pegs;
• hammer;
• nylon cord.

The marking process will not take much time; it is enough to drive pegs along the future path on both sides and stretch the cord between them to lay this material perfectly evenly. The width of the path usually does not exceed 1.2 m, but if using a curb you will need to add to given value 20 cm. The size of the paving slab area can be arbitrary.

How to lay paving slabs with your own hands

All work on laying paving slabs can be completed in several stages:

1. First of all, you should prepare the base for laying the material; for this, 30 cm of soil must be removed along the entire marked perimeter.
2. Then a thin layer of sand is placed on the bottom, which must be leveled and mixed with the soil remaining in the recess.
3. A layer of geotextile is laid, which will protect the base from grass germination and erosion groundwater.
4. A layer of crushed stone about 15 cm thick is poured onto the geotextile. Such drainage will remove atmospheric moisture, which winter time may cause heaving of the soil. The crushed stone layer is carefully compacted, leveled and sprinkled with a small amount of sand.
5. Another layer of geotextile is laid on top of the drainage soil.
6. The curb is being installed. If a path is being laid, then for this purpose it is better to use a pieced curb made of concrete, but if desired, the edge of the sidewalk can be made independently from sand-cement mortar.
7. Laying the base under the tiles.

This activity can be carried out in several ways:

1. The concrete mixture is used under significant loads. It is poured using reinforcing mesh, which must be installed in such a way that its plane is raised above the surface of the base by 3-5 cm.
2. Sand-cement mixture is used most often. Paving slabs laid on such a base can withstand medium loads. The sand-cement mixture is prepared in a ratio of 5 to 1 and laid on geotextiles in a layer of 12-15 cm.
3. A sand cushion is used only when there is a slight load on the decorative coating. After filling the sand, it is poured clean water and compacted thoroughly.

When the base is prepared, the tiles are inspected and if defects are found, they are set aside for laying in inconspicuous areas or completely eliminated. Immediately before laying the material, it is recommended to treat it with a hydrophobic substance, which will significantly increase frost resistance and mechanical strength.

Laying tiles on concrete is carried out using a small amount of cement-sand mixture, which is laid on horizontal base. Leveling the tiles is done using a rubber mallet and level. Upon completion of installation, additional mixture is sprinkled on the cracks between the tiles until the shrinkage of the mixture stops.

The material is laid in a similar way on sand-cement and pure sand mixtures.

Laying tiles with your own hands is not difficult at all. If you follow the advice outlined in this article, this process will not take much time, and the quality of the work performed will be at the highest level.

In contact with

Paving slabs in the courtyard of a private house or in a country house perform two functions - aesthetic and utilitarian. The key to high-quality implementation of both is the correct laying of paving slabs.

Many people trust this to professionals, trusting that they know their job. Is this so? Will a hired worker always perform the installation better than the owner himself?

The main thing is to know how to lay paving slabs with your own hands.

A good help will be step-by-step instructions, which, in addition to the order of work, will reveal all the nuances of this rather simple and fascinating process. Where the result appears with the first tile laid.

Preparing to lay paving slabs

Planning is the key to ensuring that your homemade path will not fail for a long time.

• Site layout. Few people decide to cover the entire space on the site with tiles, and it is also difficult to do without paths, at least from the gate to the cottage and outbuildings. Perfect option- think over the paths to the house and from it to the main buildings on the site. This way the lawn is preserved, and there is no need to knead the dirt when it rains. In addition, you will not have to uproot trees and other perennial plantings.

• Material selection. Paving slabs are gradually gaining ground from other types road surface. The main advantages: ease of operation, the ability to dismantle the coating, does not “float” like asphalt when heated, does not burst from the cold (frost-resistant), and does not require maintenance. A path lined with paving slabs allows moisture to pass through, thereby not harming the soil (environmentally friendly).

• Tile. When choosing a tile, you need to know that according to the manufacturing method, it can be vibrocast (possibly self-production) and vibration-pressed (made in industrial conditions). Varies in color, thickness and shape. Requires a base of different composition. All these factors determine the technology for laying paving slabs.

Tile covering of paths and platforms - parameters

A comparative analysis of tiled paving is provided in the table

The type of soil also influences the choice of base for paving slabs. Movable soil requires the construction of a concrete foundation even for a pedestrian path, while dense soil allows you to get by with a sand-cement cushion even under a car.

Laying paving slabs with your own hands - step-by-step instructions

General tips and rules on how to lay paving slabs correctly:

• provide drains for water drainage. If paving slabs are laid on sand, then water will go into the gaps between the tiles, and if on concrete base, then a transverse, longitudinal or transverse-longitudinal slope is required. Thus, water, rain or melt, will not collect between the concrete and the tiles. Consequently, the possibility of swelling of sections of the track is eliminated. Optimal slope paving slabs 1 cm by 1 meter. Please note: the gap for water drainage should be located between the curb and the tile surface;

• correlate the size of the tiles with the dimensions allocated for the path. The wider the path, the larger the tiled elements should be (subjective opinion), or vice versa, from small tiles. It would seem that large tiles will make the layout quicker and simpler, but in reality, it may turn out differently. The large dimensions of the tiles are directly reflected in the weight; the weight of paving slabs 40x40 cm is 15-16 kg (depending on thickness). As a result, such slabs are difficult to lift, move, or level. While you adjust the height, you will have to lift the weight several times to add sand;

• lay (bring up) communications before laying paving slabs. Otherwise, it will need to be dismantled and reassembled. If there is no need for communications yet, then conditions can be created for their installation later. To do this, it is recommended to lay under the path in the most likely places where future communications will pass. plastic pipes diameter 50 mm;

• Installation of paving slabs is not carried out during rain or immediately after precipitation. The soil and the laid cushion must dry out. Optimal humidity the base is the guarantee that the tile will not spread over time;

• the base for laying paving slabs must be perfectly level. The sand used for backfilling should not contain clay or other impurities;

• choose optimal size tracks. It is reasonable to select the width of the path based on the size of the paving slabs, plus a value equal to the sum of the gaps between them. In this way, it will be possible to avoid labor-intensive and not always beautiful cutting of tiles. The same applies to patterned layout. However, this approach is only possible when laying tiles with the correct geometry. The use of imitation natural stone, a circular pattern, and complex geometry does not always make it possible to do without cutting. In this case, you need to think about the exact location of individual whole and trimmed elements.

Stage 1 - Layout of paving slabs - diagrams, patterns, drawings

To create a beautiful tile path, you need to make the right sketch. A drawing or diagram of laying paving slabs will help not only to visualize the project, but also to calculate the required amount of material.

The choice of laying scheme is influenced by the shape (geometry) of the tiles (see photo) and the planned layout design.

Considerable room for maneuver is created by the use of rectangular paving slabs, with standard sizes 100x200 mm, “paving stones” or “brick” type. They give greatest number styling options.

Traditional options for laying paving slabs:

1. Geometric styling. Can be represented by colored canvases or illusions.

By playing with colors and tiling, you can create a unique design for garden paths. Examples in the photo (rhombus, square, circle, new and old city, parquet, checkerboard, fan, coil, butterfly, wedge leaf, hexagon or honeycomb).

2. 3D illusions - paving slabs with a 3D effect. Laying tiles with a pattern that creates a three-dimensional stereoscopic (three-dimensional) image is a clever technology for deceiving the eye.

An example of which is provided below, does not have a diagram in the classical sense. Involves laying out tiles in artistic disorder. If the tiles are monochromatic, then the size of the tiles varies during laying; if they are multi-colored, the colors vary.

4. Artistic laying of paving slabs, the photo of which is provided below, gives an idea of ​​the diversity various options styling The complexity of the design is determined by the skill or perseverance of the artist.

Stage 2 - Preparation of material and tools for laying paving slabs

For work you will need: sand, cement, tiles, curb. The following tools will be useful: nylon thread, pegs, rubber hammer, long rule, level, tamper, trowel, broom. In case of trimming, you need a grinder with a disc for cutting concrete. Knee pads are a handy thing, because work takes a lot of time focusing on these parts of the body.

Stage 3 - Marking for laying paving slabs

Marking the site consists of determining the contour of the future path. The area around the entire perimeter is marked with pegs, between which a nylon thread is stretched. Due to the fact that it serves as a guide for laying out the tiles, it must be pulled strictly according to the level.

Stage 4 - preparing the base for paving slabs

To install the base, you need to remove the top layer of turf, level the bed, pour water and compact it using a tamper. Dense soil does not require such work. There are stones, roots of trees and shrubs in the soil - all this should be removed.

Note. You can leave the soil, but then the path will be much higher than the rest of the cover on the site, which can lead to it being washed away by melt or rain water.

The resulting bed is covered with a drainage bearing layer, for example, crushed stone or gravel 150-200 mm high. For a car path (platform), the layer thickness increases to 400 mm. Many people place geotextiles under the gravel and on it to eliminate the possibility of the cushion being washed away by groundwater. 20 mm is poured on top of crushed stone. sand to level the base.

Stage 5 - Technology for laying paving slabs

Step-by-step instruction

1. Installing a curb for paving slabs or curbs

The purpose of the curb stone is to mark the path and protect the tiles from spreading. But there are examples of laying paving slabs without a border.

The curb is installed on a leveled base. For greater reliability, it is laid on a concrete base (concrete castle).

You can install a plastic border for tiles

The border can be installed flush with the tiles or protrude a few cm. It is recommended to lay the tiles just above the curb (curb) by 5 mm, this is a gap for shrinkage.

There are three types of base:

Laying paving slabs on sand.

In this case, the distance between the curbs (or the tensioned thread if they are absent) is filled with sand. The height of the sand layer is 50-60 mm. Before work, the sand is watered with water using a spray bottle and left to dry a little. Next, it is leveled and compacted. The laying is done on moist, but not wet sand.

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On the base prepared at the fifth stage, a second layer of sand (30-40 mm) is laid, on which the reinforcing mesh is laid. The mesh is covered on top with a mixture of sand and cement in a ratio of 1:4.

Laying paving slabs on a concrete base.

The composition of the “pie” is shown in the diagram.

Note. Laying tiles on concrete is not the best option. This is due to the fact that the concrete base does not allow moisture to pass through. Water gets trapped between concrete and tiles and at sub-zero temperatures leads to deformation of the path.

3. Laying tiles

Simple rules for high-quality and efficient work.

How to lay paving slabs correctly:

• the tiles are laid from the lowest point upward;

• The masonry is carried out using the manual method. That is, when performing work, the master moves along an already laid path so as not to damage the compacted and leveled base;

• Installation of tiles in a circular manner begins from the center of the pattern.

• the beginning of installation occurs at the optically visible boundary, i.e. to the place where the eye first falls: Entrance door, porch, veranda, gazebo, etc.

• The tiles are not laid out in even rows, but diagonally. This makes it easier to align horizontally.

When starting to lay, the first thing to do is pull the cord across the width of the path, and level the first row of tiles along it. The horizontal line should be checked with a level every 2-3 rows.

"Planting" paving slabs The tiles are placed in the intended place and installed accurately by lightly tapping them with a rubber hammer. If the tile falls under it, add sand or a mixture.

The gap between paving slabs is usually 2-3 mm (enough for water to escape). Exact gaps are maintained using crosses (but this is a theory, it does not occur in practice).

Some manufacturers have provided limiters (distance locks) on the tiles, allowing them to be laid at the same distance from each other without the use of additional devices.

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Appeared new technology- paving slabs that glow in the dark. Installing such tiles will mark the boundaries and make it safer to move along the path at night. Glowing paint is applied over the tiles and is absolutely safe for users and the soil.

Another option for decorative path lighting is LED paving slabs. In this case, during the laying process, brick blocks are installed - LED lights powered by electricity or solar panels.

Stage 6 - Grouting the joints of paving slabs

In addition to understanding how to lay paving slabs, you need to know how to seal the seams. Filling the seams between paving slabs is done in two approaches. To begin with, pour a thin layer of clean, sifted, dry sand onto the laid tiles. Using a broom or brush, the backfill is swept between the seams. Then a layer of sand (if the base is sandy) or a sand-cement mixture in a 1:1 ratio (for a cement-sand or concrete base) is poured onto the path and the seams are also filled (spilled) using a broom.

You can purchase a ready-made dry mixture for filling the seams of paving slabs: M150 (120 rubles/25 kg) and Quick-mix PFN (1650 rubles/25 kg).

At the end of the work, the path is watered with water using a sprayer. Watering is carried out until puddles form on the path.

Important. The distance between the curb and the tiles is not concreted, and is also filled with dry mixture.

Note. Professionals advise vibrating the seams with a special board, but users argue that in private construction this is unnecessary.

Caring for paving slabs

It is not enough to know how to lay paving slabs; you also need to provide them with constant care so that they last the estimated period. Simple maintenance consists of periodically sweeping and washing the paving slab path (to ensure that the colored tiles remain as beautiful). In winter, you should not use metal shovels to clear snow, and do not use crowbars or ice axes to remove ice, and also sprinkle the path with anti-ice compounds containing salt.

Water repellent for paving slabs

The porous structure of concrete acts like a sponge - it absorbs water. Hygroscopicity plays its detrimental role precisely in winter, when water penetrates the pores of concrete, freezes, expands and destroys the structure of the concrete base. As a result, the appearance of microcracks, dents, cavities, and color changes.

To prevent this, use protective impregnations - water repellents for paving slabs

Water-repellent compounds (materials, additives, liquids) do not protect the tiles from fading in the sun and abrasion, but only saturate the surface of the concrete and thereby prevent “saturation” with water (provide water-repellent properties).

Content

A permanent element used in landscaping the local area is paving slabs. It is perfect for a driveway, garden paths, courtyard, and recreation area. Many people do not know how to properly lay paving slabs with their own hands, but if you know the technology, even novice builders will find the process easy.

Methods for laying paving slabs

This coating, used in landscaping, such as paving slabs, is very popular and is often used by many owners of dachas, cottages and country houses. The material is relatively inexpensive and the installation process is easy. The tiles are distinguished by high quality characteristics - stability and withstand loads during long-term use, so they can be found not only on the streets/private houses, but also on playgrounds, cemeteries, and other places.

Many people wonder: what to lay paving slabs on? Construction specialists distinguish three types of installation:

• place on a concrete pad;
• lay on the sand;
• put on the ground (ground).

If you can’t lay paving stones yourself, you can always use the help of professionals, but such work will not be cheap. Prices for square meter Each master is different, but the average price is approximately:

• turnkey for concrete – from 2000 rubles;
• turnkey for sand/crushed stone – from 1500 rubles;
• laying on a finished base - from 500 rubles.

Considering the high cost of the work, it is best to learn this business yourself, because the installation process is not so complicated. You can find a lot on the Internet/construction magazines useful information(photo, video, step by step instructions, diagrams) for laying tiles. The main requirements are endurance, perseverance, and attentiveness. Possessing these qualities, you can easily make beautiful path at your dacha or lay the floor for a gazebo.

The technique of paving tiles on concrete has both positive and negative nuances. This type of paving is mainly used for the driveway in front of the garage, as it can withstand heavy loads. The thickness of the tile also plays a big role. A concrete screed is poured when the crossbar of the stone blocks is more than six centimeters. The advantages include:

• greater strength of the coating, in contrast to the sand-cement cushion;
• smooth laying of paving stones due to the rigidity of the concrete base;
• absence of shrinkage and failures at the moment of hardening;
• Possibility of installation with special glue.

Before laying paving slabs on a concrete pad, you need to think about an important negative aspect - drainage. When installing paving stones on a sand-cement base, moisture escapes through the hygroscopic layer into the deep soil. If you use concrete without taking care of drainage, the liquid will have nowhere to go, and it will begin to push the tiles upward. To prevent this from happening, it will be necessary to take care of the additional construction of storm drains or moisture inlets, and the installation of geotextile layers.

Laying paving slabs on sand

The most popular method of installing paving stones, which is often used in dachas and country houses for decorating paths, courtyards, and floors in gazebos - this is laying on a sand cushion. When thinking about how to lay paving slabs, many people decide on this economical, fast and simple option. When creating a sand-cement substrate, you should adhere to a number of certain rules:

1. Create a mixture of dry sand (be sure to sift before doing this) and cement powder, calculating the components six to one (best using a concrete mixer).
2. Add water and stir well.
3. Before laying tiles, be sure to add gravel, pieces of clinker bricks or construction waste to the solution to compact the future substrate.

On such a mixture you can lay paving stones from a variety of materials: hard rocks (granite, basalt), less dense stone (slate, limestone), brick or ceramics. The choice depends on the desire of the buyer, price and intensity of use. For your driveway, it is best to choose a material that is stronger and wider, one that can support the weight of your car every day without deteriorating over time. Paths, playgrounds and gazebos can be paved with any of the existing bars, the main thing is that you are satisfied with the price and appearance.

On earthen soil

Another simple installation method is directly on earth soil. In order to make a path near the dacha or country house, it is necessary to use large tiles that imitate a natural stone. These decorative elements are inexpensive, but they look very attractive. Paving is done in pre-prepared holes, and then compaction occurs using a special tool - a hammer with rubber tips (mallet). To know how to lay paving slabs on the ground, you don’t need to be a master or professional - this method is very easy and quick to use.

How to lay paving slabs with your own hands

So, how to lay paving slabs with your own hands? First you need to prepare the tools:

• Master OK;
• mallet (rubber);
• tamping (either manual or a purchased device);
• wooden pegs;
• lace-order;
• level;
• pipe of any diameter;
• watering can;
• rake;
• broom;
• mortar of cement, sand and stones.

How to lay paving slabs correctly:

1. Prepare the area for work: clear away debris, dig up soil in the required area, place marks (pegs) in the corners.
2. Pull the order cord to calculate the amount of work to be done and stick to it exactly.
3. Plan water flow and drainage system.
4. Install the borders in the required order around the perimeter on the liquid solution, thereby determining the installation height.
5. Fill the work area with the sand-cement mixture and distribute it evenly with a rake (you can run a thin pipe over the entire area).
6. Pack the sand firmly.
7. Start laying the first row of tiles away from you, placing them strictly along the cord.
8. Place the “bricks” tightly to avoid enlarging the seams.
9. Use special crosses, inserting them between the plates to accurately set the same intervals.
10. During the laying process, monitor the level of sand under the paving stones - excess must be removed, missing must be added.
11. Level the paving stones using a level and a mallet.
12. At the end of the work, fill the seams with a sand-cement mixture and pour plenty of water.

It is impossible to imagine the city's infrastructure without road surfaces. Until recently, asphalt was considered the most common surface. But it cracks from temperature changes, from exposure sun rays melts. With the advent of new technologies, paving squares, pavements, and roads with paving slabs has become popular.

Not a single dacha personal plot It cannot do without paving stone paths; the parking lot is paved with it. Post sidewalk path It’s not so difficult at the dacha yourself. The main thing is to know the laying rules and the technology of its installation. Today we will tell you how to lay paving slabs.

Before describing the technology for installing sidewalks, let's dwell on the advantages of paving stones.

Advantages and disadvantages of finishing material

Paving slabs have a number of advantages:

Disadvantages of the sidewalk

• During frosts it becomes covered with a layer of ice.
• If laid incorrectly, it may sag.

Types of paving stones

By manufacturing method

Depending on the methods of making paving stones the following varieties are found:

• Vibrocast
• Vibropressed
• Granite

Let's look at the characteristics of each separately.

Clay more expensive, resembles tiles.

It is durable due to the addition of granite chips or other binding material.

Before we begin the process of laying paving stones, we will check its quality to see if there are any chips or cracks. Lay it on the mixture tightly to each other.

We tap on the paving stones with a rubber mallet, achieving it better connection. You need to lay the tiles yourself.

To saw off paving slabs, use an angle grinder, or an angle grinder with a power of at least 2 kW.

Having laid out the sidewalk, we pour cement-sand mortar on top.

Let's fill it with water.

Now we'll install the curb. Digging grooves for the curb. They should be slightly wider than the curb itself. The curb is placed in order to hold the paving stones on the soft ground and prevent it from moving off it. In addition, the curb stone aligns the edge of the laid tiles. It can be laid both before laying paving stones and after.

The border should be level with the tiles, maybe a little higher. First, put a 5cm sand cushion, wet the sand, and compact it. Pour into the bottom of the groove concrete mortar and place the curb stone very quickly, before the solution hardens. Fill the gaps between the laid tiles and the curb with mortar.

How to lay paving slabs on a concrete base

Concrete serves as a more durable base for paving stones. A huge amount of heavy equipment can pass through it. This will not cause it to sag or crack.

The cement-sand cushion is a movable base, and concrete is a solid base. Therefore, it is much better to level the paving stones over the concrete base. It does not need to be compacted like parts of pillows.

The concrete screed hardens to form a level base. But concrete blocks the way for water, preventing it from seeping into the ground.

The sand and gravel cushion allows water to pass down through the pores. The soil absorbs it.

Concrete screed does not let through rainwater. It accumulates in the seams between the tiles. When frost hits, the water under the paving stones and between the seams turns to ice. The ice block presses with all its force on the coating, lifting it. The pavement may develop cracks along the edges. Therefore, before you pour concrete screed, do drainage. You can create rulers, point moisture inlets, or make a slope.

To properly lay paving slabs on a concrete base, you need to pour a screed.

We mark the area for concrete. We place pegs and pull the threads at an angle of 5 degrees. We remove the turf to a depth of 25cm. In the resulting groove, cleared of seeds and leaves of plants, we fill the crushed stone with a layer of 10-15 cm, making a slope. Let's ram it.

We make drainage holes for water drainage through every square meter 15-20cm high. After the concrete hardens, we fill them with crushed stone (crushed stone allows water to pass through).

We lay the formwork from boards 40 mm thick. To strengthen it, we put pegs. To fill the base, use a concrete mixture: cement (1 part), sand (3 parts), crushed stone (1 part). A concrete mixture 3-5 cm thick is poured onto a crushed stone cushion.

When the concrete has hardened, place reinforcing mesh, and concrete is again poured on top with a height of 5-10 cm. After 2-3 days you can lay paving stones.

We'll tell you how to properly lay paving slabs on a concrete base with your own hands.

Digging a groove for the curb. We take into account the slope of the paving. Mix the cement-sand mixture 1:3. Place a layer of 3-5 cm. We place a curb stone on it, driving it into the solution using a mallet. When the mixture dries, fill the cracks with sand and soak with water.

Before laying the paving stones, we fill it with a cement-sand mixture 1:6, level it using the rule, and tamp it with a vibrating plate. Pour a 10 cm layer of the mixture, place beacons, and level it using the rule. We lay the tiles, leaving a gap of 5 cm between them for expansion. Sprinkle the cracks with sand and fine gravel and pour water.

How to lay paving slabs on a blind area

From the house we measure the distance to the curb. We mark the paths using pegs and cord. We remove the soil to a depth equal to the height of the curb stone, adding 2-4 cm. Pour concrete mortar for the curb. Let's put it on. Let's ram it.

We pour crushed stone on a slope. We lay marking boards 3-6 meters thick, 20-40mm thick. Reinforced mesh on top. If the site is small, you can do without reinforcement and boards. Fill it up concrete mixture. When it hardens, we make a dry cement-sand mixture 1:6 and fill the base. We lay tiles on it. We pour water from a watering can. Pour the same mixture on top and sweep it into the cracks. Water it with water. Where water drains through the pipe, a concrete drain can be laid.

Laying polymer paving slabs.

Plastic tiles are the same as polymer tiles. The rules for laying polymer tiles are the same as for laying conventional paving slabs.

The features of its installation are:

How much does it cost to lay paving slabs and their price on the market

Laying paving slabs costs from 450 rubles per square meter. For the preparation of a concrete base - 750 rubles, a sand and gravel cushion - 570 rubles per square meter.

Today we told you and showed you a video on how to lay paving slabs. We will be glad to see a photo of your laid path or area at the dacha .

Do you want to know how to lay paving slabs with your own hands and be satisfied with the result? The simplicity of the technology, wide selection and low cost of the starting material will allow you to perform this work quickly and efficiently - this requires minimal repair skills and simple tools.

How to lay paving slabs - choose the material yourself

Sidewalk tiles look great both on the site and as a finishing material for paths, courtyards and areas in private homes. The obvious requirement for starting such work is a sufficient area of ​​street surface for cladding, small areas and it’s hard to lay out, and the design effect leaves much to be desired. Bad weather will complicate our installation, so it is advisable to work without wind or rain. The range of paving slabs is huge - both in the size of the elements and in their color, texture and complexity of articulation. When choosing, you should take into account the strength of the future path; it directly depends on the thickness of the elements:

• Up to 40 mm inclusive allows walking and cycling;
• Tiles up to 50 mm thick can withstand a passenger car;
• Bars from 60 mm can easily “cope” with the weight of the truck.

To master the intricacies of laying, it is wise to choose simple, rectangular or square tiles. It is better to start such work when tiling the path - on a narrow “front” it is much easier to understand how to lay paving slabs with your own hands correctly and consistently. Vast surfaces of carved multi-colored concrete are often laid intact construction teams, and without experience, and especially alone, it is not recommended to pave your own yard.

It is easy to calculate the number of rectangular tiles for a straight path, making a reserve of 10-15% for possible defects during delivery and installation. Borders will definitely be required - they will become natural boundaries during installation, strong side surfaces to prevent the “creeping” of our prefabricated mosaic. The height of the borders should be several times greater than the thickness of the selected tile; this is necessary for proper installation of the multi-layer base. It is better to leave round and shaped blocks for the next stages of landscaping. Diagonal or circular laying is not only associated with high material consumption, but also with the difficulty of cutting and installing curved elements.

The price of paving slabs depends on their abrasion resistance, impact strength and the cost of color pigments. In general, the material is inexpensive; it is quite possible to choose high-quality samples for installation “testing”.

How to lay paving slabs - we prepare the base with our own hands

How to correctly lay paving slabs without prior experience in such work largely depends on the quality of the base. Preparing many types of repairs is much longer and more difficult than the work itself - the same kitchen panels or laminate flooring on a flat base can be installed quickly and easily. The picture is similar with paving slabs. Every preparatory stage must be done responsibly and without haste; thoroughness is more important than speed records.

How to prepare the base for paving slabs - step-by-step diagram

Step 1: Marking

We drive in pegs and visually outline the route of the future path with twine or cord tied to them. You should walk along the marked area, assess its width and the presence of problem areas. It is much easier to move a few pegs with string than to heroically uproot a century-old stump at the site of future installation. Do not consider the markup to be something monolithic - it is quite susceptible to adjustment, and more than once.

Step 2: Drainage – is it ours or not?

Drainage work when laying paving slabs yourself is divided into two types. Internal drainage is necessary for clayey, swampy soils. It must be carried out immediately after digging a trench, laying down a slope at earthworks oh and laying down drainage drains(pipes).

External drainage is the same slope, but narrower than the tiles themselves to one of the edges of the sidewalk. If the laying width is small and the climate is dry, it can be neglected, but a long-term and smart solution is to slope the sidewalk surface towards the curb for further water drainage. The slope is sufficiently 2-3˚, ​​in addition, some of the moisture will escape through the cracks between the tiles.

Step 3: Foundation

We remove turf, soil or any other old covering to a depth of about 20 cm using a good bayonet shovel. As a result of excavation work, you should get a flat and wide ditch; we remove the soil from its bottom with a shovel. At the same time, we are engaged in the fight against remnants of vegetation. Roots or any sprouts should be removed so that later they do not justify the poetic lines “And trees grow on stones.” Because stones with a tree unexpectedly growing through them will become your man-made path! Repairing a sidewalk damaged by roots is labor-intensive and complicated; you should try to avoid it at the preparatory stage.

One curb is installed at the bottom of the trench (yes, just one for now), and a layer of gravel or crushed stone of fractions from 10 to 20 is laid - that is, quite small. Now you should select a line for installing the second border in such a way that the entire space is filled with whole tiles (here’s another benefit of rectangular bars!). The mounting gaps should be 2-3 millimeters wide, no more. We install the second curb, strictly parallel, and firmly concrete both borders of the path. The solution is mixed using cement of at least 300 grades, the ratio of cement to sand is 1:2.

We level the layer of gravel, its thickness is approximately 10 cm. Now sand is poured onto the gravel pad - coarse and wet, do not confuse it with installation sand! The height from the curb edge to the sand base should remain approximately one and a half thickness of the tile. The poured sand is watered abundantly and after a few hours it is compacted using a hand tamper. The solid foundation is ready. The next day, you can begin laying the exclusive sidewalk, if the strength of the installed curbs allows. If not, postpone the procedure for another day.

How to lay paving slabs correctly - installation instructions

A common mistake is trying to lay paving slabs with your own hands while being on a sand base. The entire installation is carried out without leaving the already laid tiles, and always in dry weather. Its sequence:

How to lay paving slabs correctly - step by step diagram

Step 1: Prepare the mounting mixture

Ordinary fine sand, always dry, will also work as such. It can also be laid on a cement-sand mixture, in a ratio of three to four volume fractions of sand per one cement. But such installation will make our path inseparable in the future. The thickness of the dry mixture is about 3-4 centimeters.

Step 2: Set up the beacons and fill in the mounting mixture

If the path is wide, the sand is leveled along the beacons. They are installed according to the level, and one beacon should be higher than the other by an average of 1 cm per meter of path width, this is necessary for water drainage. It is best to use steel or aluminum tubes as beacons (necessarily even!) - they can be easily removed from the sandy surface after it has been leveled. The installation of beacon tubes is carried out on two sand cushions, poured onto a prepared base.

For a narrow sidewalk, it is permissible to level the installation mixture directly between the curbs; again, it is necessary to slope it to allow water to drain. A bucket or other container with sand should be at hand, as well as a trowel, mallet and the tiles themselves.

Step 3: Our first row is the most important

The accuracy, strength and aesthetic appearance of the entire tiled structure depend on the first rows. Measure and stretch the line to facilitate precision work. We take the first block and install it 3-5 millimeters from the curb. The level checks the longitudinal quality of the installation - the transverse one will have a drainage slope, it is necessary to ensure its constancy. Therefore, the fishing line is pulled precisely in the transverse direction - it does not coincide with the horizon, but follows the set slope.

Install the bars tightly and evenly one next to the other, leaving no more than 2 mm of gap; this is filled later with the same sand. Each tile is rammed with a mallet or rubber hammer in height, when there is no doubt about the accuracy of installation on the plane. And this will be clear when the entire row is laid out from one border to another. If a corner collapses, remove the block and add sand. An element sticks out - remove excess sand from under it. Don’t be afraid to redo the first rows several times; they set the quality of the entire tiled surface.

Step 4: Mortises and Seams

All non-integer elements are mounted last. It’s easier to place them at the installation site and visually mark the cutting line than to measure remotely and theoretically. Cut paving slabs with a grinder and a diamond blade. You can cut it with a regular hacksaw for metal, but the speed of such work will leave much to be desired. So it's wise to stock up on power tools, a few discs and eye protection.

Small cracks are filled when work is completed cement mortar with a lot of content liquid glass for durability in bad weather. Installation joints between tiles are covered with sand or sand-cement mixture. Then, using a hose with a narrow sprayer, you need to carefully go through all the seams, “pushing” the sand as deep as possible. A similar procedure is performed several times, each time adding a new portion of the bulk mixture. The long-term integrity of our efforts depends on the tight filling of the assembly seams.

You can walk on the new path in a couple of days; the structure should set and remain stable. Paving slabs should be swept and hosed down regularly. The brighter the paint, the more often the cleaning, the deeper the patterns, the more difficult it is to remove dirt from them. In winter, ice and snow are removed without the use of metal tools, which can damage the paint layer. Sidewalk tiles should not be sprinkled with abrasive mixtures or other chemicals - for anti-slip properties it is better to use clean sand. With proper care, a man-made path will last for several decades.