How to make an ice hockey stick. Making a hockey stick with your own hands

At the request of readers

HOCKEY STICK

Making a stick is a difficult and painstaking process. It’s not for nothing that athletes say that a hockey stick should be as strong as steel and flexible as a walnut branch. Making a stick strong and flexible at the same time is not an easy task. Here you will need, in addition to necessary materials and tools, even greater precision and accuracy when gluing the stick.

A hockey stick should not have metal parts: all its parts are made only of wood.

The stick handle and boss (see drawing) can be made of birch or beech, the hook can be made of hardwood: beech or ash. Options for selecting wood in a hook are shown in the drawing.

The boss is glued in to give the stick elasticity and flexibility.

To glue individual parts of the stick, you can use BF-2 glue or ■ Super Cement. It is not advisable to use carpenter's or casein glue, because both of these glues are susceptible to dampness.

Brewed HTDI WOOD COMPOSITION) B

Having made the components of the ilyushka: handle, boss and hook, proceed to gluing these parts.

First glue the boss to the handle as shown in the drawing. Then use a jigsaw to cut out a groove for the hook. This is a very important operation, and it must be performed very carefully. Any unevenness left by the file can later lead to breakage of the club.

The part of the hook that connects to the handle and boss is sharpened to a cone. Lubricate the parts of the hook and handle to be glued together with glue and insert the hook into the groove of the handle. Clamp the club into a press or clamp and let the glue dry.

After gluing, use a plane to smooth the side surfaces of the hook, bosses and handle so that they do not have protrusions or roughness.

Clean the stick with sandpaper and varnish the hook and handle to a height of 30-40 cm. Do not varnish the handle in the grip area.

The stick will look more impressive if there is an inscription on its handle.

The drawing shows the numbers of clubs from 1 to 3. In general, there are only nine of them.

The stick number depends on the individual characteristics of the hockey players (skating style, height, manner of dribbling the puck, etc.).

For those who hold the club not far from themselves, you need a club with a small number.

The length of a stick is considered normal if its handle reaches the chin of a hockey player standing on skates.

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PAPER SPHERE

To make a ball segment, take a hoop whose diameter corresponds to the diameter of the future sphere. Pull a piece of chintz over it evenly, like a hoop. In the center of the circle, the fabric will sag by 5 - 7 mm from its own weight. Place stands under the hoop and stick several layers of newspaper (3 - 5 mm thick) on top of the circle. To avoid wrinkles, use warm paste. Do not touch the circle until the paper

will dry out. Under the weight of the wet paper, the fabric will stretch and the workpiece will take on a spherical shape. Remove the dried sphere from the hoop and prime it. Seal the unevenness with a paste that is prepared from a mixture of one part by weight of sifted chalk and one part of paper dust, prepared from newsprint soaked for 24 hours, wrung out, dried and ground into powder. Mix the mixture well and fill it with a paste made from one fifth by weight of potato flour and a tenth of ready-made wood glue. Paint the sphere with nitro enamel.

COPPER WIRE

Openwork hardware(candlesticks, lamps, flower pendants) are firmly part of our everyday life. Light and elegant, they fit well into the interior of a modern apartment.

Annealed copper wire 0 3-5 mm, a simple device (rollers, pyramids and a cone), a soldering iron and, of course, artistic taste and rich imagination you will need in order to create a cozy home environment in the room.

Lamps and candlesticks are best made from annealed copper wire. To do this, the wire is rolled in rollers (see figure on page 16).

A through hole and groove are drilled in the steel or duralumin base of the rollers (Fig. 1) for fixed and movable fixation of the rollers (and the hole is a bearing mounted on the axle). The non-moving roller is secured to the base with a nut, and the movable roller is secured with a bolt and a locking screw (Fig. 4). The roll axes (Fig. 3) are machined from bronze, and the locking screw is made from steel. Roll the wire like this: clamp the cracker (Fig. 2) in a vice, install the bearings at the required distance. Then take the wire by one end with pliers and pull it between the bearings. The operation is repeated until a flat plastic tape of the required thickness is obtained (the thickness of the tape is determined by the distance between the bearings).

If the wire does not roll well, it is annealed a second time. You can bend the wire into rings of various diameters on a pyramid (Fig. 5).

To extrude various spherical surfaces (for example, plates for candlesticks), another device is needed, consisting of a matrix of an arbitrary truss and a pressing punch (Fig. 6).

Cut a circle of the required diameter from soft metal 0.5-1 mm thick. Place the workpiece circle coaxially on the one clamped in the chuck lathe matrix. Then use the lathe tailstock taper to press the punch against the die. To give the workpiece a plate shape, use a flat file with a bevel on the end. Clamp a thick stop plate in the tool holder of the lathe. Hold the file handle with one hand and the working part with the other. Moving the file along the stop, carefully press on the rotating workpiece until a plate of the desired shape is formed from the round plate (workpiece).

From rolled wire you can make not only candlesticks and lamps, but also animal figurines, contour models of cars and even small scenes from fairy tales.

N. SHCHERBAKOV, Moscow

Currently, all the equipment for this glorious game can be selected at https://ultrasport.ru/konki/, however, we will tell you how you can do it yourself from quite simple materials make a hockey stick that will serve faithfully for more than one season.

Prepare for work wooden beam, it is best if it is oak. The width of the workpiece should be 60 mm, length - approximately 1 m, thickness - 30 mm.

First of all, measure 50 cm from one of the ends and make a mark. Boil water in a large saucepan (about 50 liters) and immerse the marked part of the timber. Your task is to steam the wood, a kind of “cooking”, so that later this part of the timber can be bent.

After steaming, remove the piece of wood from the water and saw it lengthwise, going 35 cm deep. Then this section of the block will need to be quickly bent in the required direction, and then quickly secured using supports prepared in advance. You can use a variety of devices for fixing, the most important thing is to think through everything in advance, because after you take the piece of wood out of boiling water, it will immediately begin to cool and then bending it will be problematic.

Then wait for the wood to dry - this will take some time. The future club should be dried in a dry room, where there are no sudden temperature changes or drafts.

Remove the workpiece from the clamps and begin modifying it. The end of the bow that you sawed will need to be drilled and riveted. For this purpose, use metal washers and soft wire. Plane both sides of the curved bow with a plane until its thickness is 15 mm. Take note: if you are not lucky enough to use durable oak raw materials, then leave the shackle thicker, then it will last longer.

If you are on vacation and decide to play hockey, then you can use the materials at hand. Take a tree branch - not too thin, but at the same time not too thick. It is best to use a willow branch. Cut out a hook approximately 30 cm long; the handle can be any length. Carefully chop the hook with an ax and then plan it with a knife to get a playing surface.

The young man came to the stadium. Today he is participating in a hockey match. You can immediately notice this: he has skates in one hand and a stick in the other. And he made it himself, with his own hands.
Young hockey players surround their friend and meticulously examine his “creation.” The stick is very good, it will be handy to play with!

Each of you, young hockey fans, can make such a stick for yourself. You will need little material for this: wood, glue, insulating tape and a leather strap.

ice hockey stick / bandy stick

Make a hockey stick from dry ash, beech or birch wood. Before processing the blank, carefully inspect the wood. It must be healthy, straight-layered, without rot, cracks or other defects. You can also use wood with small, fused knots, but in such a way that when cutting the material they do not extend to the edge of the hook or handle. The selected workpiece must correspond in length, width and thickness to this size - 1500 X X 100 X 15 mm.

Now it's time to start processing the board. It is usually finished with a plane or on a woodworking machine. Bring the blank to the required dimensions (1250 X 70 X 12 mm), and then steam one end of it for one to two hours in hot water (90-100°). When the wood has steamed well, immediately remove it from the water and begin bending the hook. Perform bending on a wooden or metal block, working part which is made in the shape of the curved part of the hook. When the club takes the shape of a dummy, secure it in this position with clamps (metal clamps) and leave it until completely dry. Then remove the stick, glue on pads if necessary and finalize it to the dimensions shown in Fig. 1.

To ensure that the parts of the club stick together well, use waterproof resin glue. If you can’t get it, you can glue the clubs with casein glue. Thoroughly sand the surface of the stick with sandpaper and cover with hot drying oil.

Wrap the hook with insulating tape in two layers in the places shown in Fig. 2. A leather strap, 8-10 mm wide and 1.5-2 mm thick, should tightly cover the body of the hook. It must be woven as shown in Fig. 2. Secure the end of the belt with a nail in the middle part inner edge hook A properly made stick should weigh no more than 450 grams.

There are three types of ice hockey sticks - for a player, a goalie and a children's one. The stick consists of a handle and a blade, which are cut separately and glued together, as shown in Fig. 3. For gluing strength, the surfaces of the hook wedge and the wedge slot in the handle must be well adjusted to each other.

The wood and glue used are the same as in the manufacture of ball hockey sticks. Since the hook is made separately from the handle, there is no need to bend the wood.

The player's clubs come in four different numbers. They differ in the angle at which the hook is set. The angle is chosen depending on the player’s place in the team and his individual data (128°, 130°, 132° and 135°). The goalie stick blade can also be positioned at different angles (122°, 125° and 128°). The kids' stick has a blade angle of 130° to 140°.

The final finish on ice hockey sticks is the same as on bandy sticks.

Remember - the strength of the stick largely depends on the quality of gluing of the parts. They need to be pulled tightly together and held in this position throughout the drying period. When using resin glue, strictly follow the gluing technology ( temperature regime, time, etc.).

Hockey is played by many children and adults around the world, and everyone knows that it is impossible to play hockey without a stick - be it ice hockey or bandy. To make your own stick for bandy, basic woodworking skills will be enough for you. In this article, you will learn the steps involved in creating a simple wooden hockey stick.

Instructions

1. You will need a wooden beam made of oak or ash, 60 mm wide and 30 mm thick. The length of the beam should be about 1000-1200 mm.
2. Measure 50 cm from the end of the beam and place this piece of wood in hot water– the end must be thoroughly steamed so that the beam bends well. Remove the tree from the water and cut the end of the beam lengthwise to 30-40 cm.
3. After this, place the end in a pre-prepared template and bend the beam without waiting for it to cool after steaming. Bend the workpiece to desired angle and secure with wedges and clamps in a bent position.
4. Wait for the wood to dry. Dry the club blank in a warm and dry place without changes in temperature and humidity throughout the day. After 24 hours, remove the blank from the mounts and template and begin processing it, giving the club a finished look.
5. Drill the sawn end of the bow with a drill and rivet it with soft copper wire and metal washers. Plan both sides of the curved bow with a plane until it reaches a thickness of one and a half millimeters.
6. After forming the bow, begin to form the handle - plan it with a plane, making the handle with a round or faceted section, as desired. Excess wood at the top of the handle can be sawed off.
7. Finish the club with a final sanding and polishing - use sandpaper and fine skin. Coat the surface of the stick with a protective varnish. Wait for the polish to dry and then wrap the bow with a tight, knotted strap. For convenience, wrap the stick handle with a rubber band in a spiral.