What should be the power in the gas water heater? How to choose a gas water heater: characteristics of water heaters for an apartment

EVERYTHING, WE'VE PERVISED

Clearly, without an amplifier there is no life. We begin to choose and, naturally, the first thing we look at is the maximum (we already know what it is) power, what are we fighting for? How to choose it will be a separate and unexpectedly short conversation. But first, let's determine where this power comes from. What makes a separate amplifier such a qualitatively different device compared to the inherited amplification channels built into the head unit? From the previous issue of “V.V.” It became clear: it’s all about nutrition. The amplifier creates an alternating voltage at the output with a swing, from top to bottom, no greater than the supply voltage of the output stages. For the radio amplifier, this is the voltage on board, 12 V when the car is turned off, about 14 V when running. Home component external amplifier - power supply. It receives a constant voltage from the on-board network, turns it into an alternating voltage of a fairly high frequency (tens of kilohertz), the alternating voltage can already be increased using a transformer, which is what the amplifier’s power supply does, and then, already increased, it is rectified again and supplied to the amplifier itself. To how many volts the voltage was inflated during this activity, at such a height the ceiling of the output voltage swing will pass. What follows is simple arithmetic. Let’s assume that out of 12 V on-board the power supply has created 50. In reality it will be two voltages of different polarities, 25 V each, it’s more convenient. This means that the output voltage swing (in each direction) will be no more than 25 V minus some pennies lost in the transistors. Maximum output power it turns out to be 25 squared divided by the load resistance. This is according to Ohm's law, it is inexorable. It comes out to a little more than 150 watts. Only this is the peak value, on the RMS scale - exactly half as much, about 75 W. The numbers are quite real, there are plenty of such amplifiers. Can you get more out of this amp? The first stage of “afterburner” in many models will occur by itself, as soon as you start the engine. For many amplifiers, the output voltage of the power supply is not stabilized and is in proportion to the input. And when, with the engine running and the generator running, the voltage on board becomes not 12, but, on a well-regulated machine, 14.4 V, the voltage at the output of the power source will increase from 50 to 60 V, and the “ceiling” for the output voltage of the amplifier will also rise , and the maximum power will increase to 108 W. Wow, that's a raise, right? Just don’t rejoice too much just yet. Will this make the amplifier play louder? Why is this, exactly? The overall gain, from the signal source to the output, remained the same, it does not depend on the power supply (and if it suddenly did, the component responsible for this would urgently request permanent registration in the trash can), which means it will be as it played. Another thing is that if previously distortion appeared at some volume, when at the peaks of the signal the output voltage tried to jump over the bar set by the power source, now this moment will move to the area of ​​​​higher volume. How far will it move? Let's figure it out. One and a half decibels. One click of the volume, or even not a single one, it depends on the step of the control.

What have we gained compared to " past life"When there was no amplifier at all? There seems to be a lot of watts. And in decibels of the maximum undistorted volume, again, it seems, not very much: 5.4 dB. But this is only “seemingly”, as we will see later, happiness is not just in clicks of the volume control. It is still necessary to organize some kind of harmony between the powers. Look, for example, at what power the acoustics have, and select an amplifier based on that, right?

I did this on purpose, for the purpose of provocation. We talked about how you can ruin acoustics with insufficient power in the last issue, now let's try to do it with too much power. It will be much more difficult, I warn you.

Let's return once again to the phrase that I have said (and written) many times on various occasions, the last time in the last issue. Here it is: “And when we talk about the power of an amplifier, we are talking about what IT GIVES. And when we talk about the power of the speaker, it’s about what HE TAKES.” The maximum power of an amplifier is the one it cannot provide more than, because it begins to distort the signal, and that is not what we bought it for. The maximum power of the acoustics, therefore, is the one it cannot take more than, because WHAT? Does the signal also begin to distort? And it begins to do this at once and little by little, not at all like an amplifier; acoustics do not have a hard limit. In ancient times, there was a Soviet standard by which the so-called rated power of speakers was standardized. Special conditions, frequency bands, and so on were stipulated there; in general, the power was considered such that nonlinear distortion did not exceed 10%. The best bass speaker of that time was called 6GD2, the first number is just the rated power. There were 4 more gas engines, 3 gas engines, and so on, and then they adopted the definition of rated power, which no longer depended on distortion, but on survivability, and all these gas engines at once grew fat to 10, 20, 75, and the like. These GOSTs ordered us all to live a long time, and now power is determined differently, and it is very important to understand this in order to treat this indicator with the attitude it deserves.

I’ll ask you to type this in red, if I forget, you can use a pencil yourself, okay?

The power indicated on the acoustics is not the one at which it should work, but the one that destroys it.

Of course, there must be a relationship between the capabilities of acoustics and the resources of the source of this probable destruction, but this is a relationship, not an identity. Imagine: you bought a car with a maximum speed of 200 km/h. And you got tires with a speed rating of T (190 km/h). What, you can't drive? At 191 km/h all four wheels are in tatters? Or, on the contrary, the tires have a Z speed index (240 or more), and you are knocked off your feet when choosing the right car for such tires. Unreal.

Nevertheless, one often hears (and even reads) how acoustics are selected for an amplifier (and vice versa), looking first at the power, and then at everything else.

So let's do this one last time so as not to return to the question. The numbers on the speaker, accompanied by the words Power, without indicating what is meant by this, do not mean anything, it is part of a modern but deep-rooted tradition. If the speaker manufacturer is at least relatively correct in the figures he gives, then he can indicate the long-term power, and this is the maximum non-destructive (or minimally destructive, don’t forget about this) power supplied to the speaker for half an hour according to the scheme: a minute works - two resting. At the same time, a noise signal is supplied, passed through a filter that cuts off everything below 40 Hz and everything above 4 kHz, so this has almost nothing to do with the tweeter. Now, if the acoustics survived these most difficult half an hour in its life, the used power value is recorded. If it died, it is taken from previous experience with less power. Short-term power is one that will not destroy the speaker (or will destroy it, but at the last moment) after 60 cycles of “yelling for a second - resting for a minute.” All the described procedures imply bringing the acoustic sample under test as close as possible to the edge of the grave, so use them as a guide standard indicator for someone who paid for the acoustics out of his own pocket, it’s somehow not very reasonable. The only type of indicator that even slightly resembles the possible real use of its legal property is rated noise power according to the IEC 268-5 standard, when the acoustics must remain alive after 8 hours of continuous operation on the already mentioned noise signal. It is almost never indicated.

The landmarks here should be different; you shouldn’t look for them on boxes with acoustics.

LINKS, WHERE ARE YOU?

Our in-house experts in acoustics tests have repeatedly recommended (when manufacturers were completely losing their shame and it was unthinkable to remain silent) to measure up to indicators that at least roughly indicate the area possible values. For 6-inch component acoustics, the limits of reasonable risk lie somewhere at 40 and 90 W (this is wide, you already need to look at the design features inside), for 5-inch ones - naturally lower, 30 - 70 W. These are the rated noise power values ​​we consider. You may disagree, but refuting experiments - at your own expense, please.

The numbers, in principle, resemble the common values ​​of the maximum output power of widely used amplifiers, so the simplest, bordering on primitivism, answer to the question of matching the power of the amplifier with the power of the acoustics is already ready: a typical amplifier is suitable for working with typical acoustics. Anyone - with anyone. In principle, if you don’t want to worry, you can use it. But the answer is too simple to in any way claim to be exhaustive, that’s clear.

A slightly more common answer can be found in the experience of the superbisons of the acoustics world. The undoubted superbuffalo is the JBL company, which has equally succeeded in acoustics for home, stage, car and intended for sounding rooms and open spaces. The company's technical circular contains the following recommendation: in the case where the volume level is under control (it explains: this means a home or studio, but not a word about a car), the maximum amplifier power (RMS) can be twice the rated noise power. In cases where control is not perfect (this is about sound systems), parity must be maintained.

Then you need to look at the realities of life. In life, as I have reason to believe, both the amplifier and the acoustics will be used to reproduce music, and not test signals that are only very roughly similar to music. A music signal is not a sine wave or even noise, it is a signal with a large difference between the average value and the peak value. Short-term signal peaks, with rare exceptions, do not threaten the health of the acoustics, which mainly have to resist thermal load, and the heat generated at the voice coil is a function of the average level of the input signal. I had to see in the documentation of the most serious acoustics manufacturers how, next to the very real (and with all regulatory data) long-term power figures, the values ​​of withstand power at short-term (say,

10 ms) peaks. The numbers sometimes reached hundreds of watts, and this is no longer marketing, this is a fact, even a very powerful one, but a very short burst of signal will not destroy the speaker. But the amplifier has a fundamentally different view of level peaks. If the signal level exceeds the maximum power level even for a millisecond, it will be mercilessly decapitated, that is, it will go further along the wires to the acoustics in a distorted form, compared to the original source. This cannot be allowed. And here it makes sense to look at your musical tastes.

TASTES DO NOT MEASURE

Why so? You can also try. I ran a number of musical fragments through the computer and chose ones that were quite indicative in terms of the ratio of average (dangerous for acoustics) and peak (which should be feasible for the amplifier) ​​power. The signal level was measured in decibels relative to the maximum recorded on the disk, but for clarity, I recalculated everything as a percentage of the maximum power. The first picture is 60 seconds of “Procession of the Dwarves” (6th track “Let’s Test!”). If the system is configured so that the largest peaks of the signal do not exceed the amplifier's output power, then in general the speakers will receive about one and a half percent of this power during this minute. Even in those 12 seconds, when the orchestra is completely relaxed, the thermal load will be no more than half the power.

A minute of activity of the Yamato drummers (remember when they came to Moscow?). The signal level is chosen to easily miss the peak of activity at 21 seconds. As a result, the average power of the entire fragment is less than a percent of the maximum, and its most intense part is one tenth of the maximum.

Third example: “In the Pocket” (Kai Eckhardt, “NAIM Sampler”, track images/smiley_icons/icon_cool.gif. The average power is 13% of the maximum, and turning up the volume in a sincere attempt to ruin the acoustics will mean cutting off the numerous peaks caused by skillful drummer's job.

Don't listen to audiophile delights? We won't force you. Here is a fragment of the soundtrack of the punk rock band Kurban (Turkish and, by the way, quite interesting). Here already - yes, the guys on stage do not rest, and the average power for a long time is about 40, or even more percent of the maximum. But the guidelines, in principle, remain the same as those proposed by the bright heads from JBL, God bless them. It’s just that rock music falls into the category of “flawed control,” which is logical.

An attentive reader may be puzzled here: “Wait a minute, it turns out that we listen to music on one or two, many - ten watts, connected to the acoustics? Why then does it play loudly? You heard it yourself: it’s loud.” I’ll answer: why shouldn’t she play loudly? After all, you can easily manage decibels (even those who couldn’t before). We take any acoustics from any of our past tests and look at the sensitivity indicator. Well, let's say 87 dB, this is the average typical value. This sound pressure will be created by this acoustics at a distance of 1 m with a power of 1 (one and only) Watt supplied to it. This, by the way, is no longer quiet. In order for this acoustics to create a sound pressure level of 90 dB, standard for control listening in a sound recording, it only needs 2 W. Apply 10 W and get 97 dB. It's quite loud. Moreover, keep in mind that we have at least two such speakers, and they sound not in a quiet room, but in the cabin, where there are much fewer losses, and the reflected sounds come to us. What then, you ask, will the speaker do when those same hundred peak, say, watts come to it? Exactly what it should: briefly, within a fraction of a second, it will scream at 107 dB. Give him these 100 watts continuously, in the form of noise or, worse, a tone, and this scream will be his death cry. And so - everything is under control, don’t worry.

In acoustics, everything is measured differently than in the ordinary world. There are several reasons for this, some explanations can take you to the paradise of science, we will not touch them. Others are amenable to simple interpretations. Or they can simply be taken on faith, whichever is more convenient for you.

Human hearing cannot add and subtract. Just multiply and divide. Evolution (or the Creator, take your pick) arranged it this way, as it seems to me, guided by technical expediency. Hearing operates over a huge range of volumes. The sound pressure (measurable, as is known) corresponding to the pain threshold exceeds the sound pressure of the hearing threshold by ten million times (in words, so as not to count zeros). Hearing adapted to this by becoming (by the will of evolution or the Creator) logarithmic. People came up with logarithms later, but they sit in our heads by nature. The logarithmic nature of hearing is that it evaluates the difference in loudness not by how much greater the sound pressure is, but by how many times greater it has become. So (if we now remove all the intermediate chapters of history) a unit of measurement was invented on which absolutely everything in acoustics and electroacoustics is based - the decibel. Who knows everything about this, do not read further, however, I asked about this when I opened this series of publications.

I give the rest, no matter how many there are, the opportunity to master operations with decibels in five minutes and subsequently do it easily and gracefully. So: a decibel is a unit that, if added, means “multiply”, and if subtracted, means “divide”. For example: sound pressure is 3 dB higher. This means double. Another 3 dB? Twice more. More by 1 dB is approximately 1.25 times. 10 dB more - ten times. And vice versa: subtract 3 dB from the sound pressure, and this will mean that it has been halved.

It is enough to remember a few important values ​​so that from them, like bricks, you can form an idea of ​​what this or that value indicated in decibels means.

Here you are:

	Power or sound pressure differ in	Voltage varies in
1 dB	1.25 times	1.13 times, just a penny
3 dB	2 times	about one and a half times
6 dB	4 times	2 times
10 dB	10 times	about 3 times
12 dB	16 times	4 times
20 dB	100 times	10 times

That's all: you meet, for example, somewhere around 18 dB, you estimate that it is 12 + 6, take the “times” for these two terms and multiply. You multiply, that’s the whole trick. In our example, 16 by 4 gives 64. Just pay attention: when comparing sound pressures and powers, you need to take “times” from the left column, and when comparing voltages, say, from the right one, this is a trick due to the fact that an increase in voltage, to for example, at the output of the amplifier, doubling the power leads to a fourfold increase in power (the voltage is squared there), and the decibels are the same, there are 6 of them. However, in the future we will mainly operate with powers and sound pressures, so the right column will remain in reserve for now .

What does decibel mean to the ear? A difference in volume of 1 dB (this is for most head units - one click of an encoder or volume button) is heard only by immediately comparing how it was and how it is now. Conduct an experiment: listen to the sound at a volume of, say, 15 on the display, and then 16, get out of the car for half a minute, and let your friend (or even a friend) cover the display with his palm (or palm), and you determine: it’s 15 or 16 ? If at the same time you pass by the cash register less often than five times out of ten (even on the same fragment), it means that your head unit has a volume step of 2 dB, this also occurs. Although there are, of course, talents.

3 dB is perceived as a noticeable change in volume. Not “big”, but simply noticeable. And here comes some bad news that you might have already guessed. The sound pressure created by the acoustics and the power supplied to the acoustics in order to create it live in the same column of our cheat sheet. Consequently, in order to obtain a noticeable change in volume, the supplied power must be doubled. This is what causes all the problems with power. Mainly because of this...

An important characteristic of a geyser is its power. This indicator is considered decisive in terms of whether the selected model can provide you with the necessary volume hot water. If the power is not enough, then when two taps are turned on at the same time, the column will not be able to maintain the required temperature. Excessive productivity will lead to excessive gas consumption.

When choosing a geyser, you should pay attention that all models are divided into the following types according to power:

1. Low power - from 17 to 20 kW. Suitable for 1-2 water intake points, for example, a washbasin and a kitchen sink. Such models are capable of producing hot water 9-10 l/min.
2. Average power - from 21 to 26 kW. Capable of providing water to 2-3 water consumption points, for example, a sink, washbasin and shower. Medium power models produce hot water at a rate of 11-13 l/min.
3. High power - from 27 to 29 kW. They are suitable for providing 3 or more water intake points: kitchen, washbasin, shower, bathroom. High power geysers are capable of producing 14-17 l/min.

Gas water heaters low power are very popular among summer residents. They will provide hot water basic needs: washing hands and feet, dishes.

The temperature of the hot water you want is also important. The instructions only indicate the amount of liquid that the column can heat to 25°C in a minute. If you plan to use hotter water, you should be aware that performance will decrease. For example, if the column states that it can produce 10 l/min, then at a temperature of 40°C its power will decrease to 6-7 l/min, and at maximum heating up to 60°C the device will be able to produce 4 l/min.

The following table will help you determine the required power of the column.

When choosing the power of a gas water heater, it is important to pay attention to the value of the coefficient useful action. It shows how efficiently the device's performance will be used. Models with an open combustion chamber usually have lower efficiency than their turbocharged counterparts. For the former, the value usually ranges between 84-89%, and for models with a closed firebox – within 89-92%.

How to calculate the required power?

There is a more accurate method for determining the required performance - using the formula:

V = 14.3 x (W / (T2 – T1)),

where W – power, kW;

T2 - temperature of heated water;

T1 is the water temperature at the water heater inlet.

For example, the power of the column is 22 kW, the temperature cold water at the inlet - 15°C, expected at the outlet - 45°C.

V = 14.3 x (22/ (45-15) = 10.48. Round up and get 10.5 l/min.

If you need to find the performance in kW, you can use the following calculation:

W = V x (T2 – T1) / 14.3,

where V is the required water flow, l/min.

With values ​​of V=10 l/min, T1=15°C, and T2=35°C W = 10 x (40-15)/ 14.3=17.48. It turns out that you need to purchase a 17.5 kW speaker.

During operation, the power of the geyser can be adjusted using a special handle located on the front panel. However, the most modern devices are capable of automatically changing power - the user only needs to set the desired heating temperature. The modulating burner smoothly changes output, maintaining the set temperature. A gas water heater with power modulation can save a lot of fuel and provide high ease of use. A burner with several power levels smoothly changes the combustion intensity, delivering from 40 to 100% productivity.

Probably everyone knows common Since ancient times, the expression: “my home is my fortress.” You can, of course, put a variety of meanings into it. But if you look from an everyday point of view, from the position of a caring and economical owner, then this can be perceived as a desire for the greatest possible autonomy, for independence from public utilities with their unpredictable quirks in the form of changes in the conditions for the provision of services, tariff increases, supply failures, preventive maintenance, accidents and the like.

It is no secret that not only the owners of private houses, but also the owners of apartments in high-rise buildings in Lately Increasingly, people are installing their own independent home heating and hot water supply systems. About - in a separate publication, and this article will be devoted to questions of how to choose geyser so as not to have problems providing your household with hot water.

But even before the speech will do about the problems, in fact, of choosing these devices, you need to, at least briefly, familiarize yourself with their basic structure. This is necessary, first of all, in order to try to dispel a number of fairly common prejudices that were formed in the collective consciousness regarding speakers quite a long time ago are firmly entrenched there and are very difficult to “neutralize.”

The design of a geyser and its advantages

In order not to make mistakes when choosing such a heating device, it is necessary to at least approximately understand its structure. Although The range of modern geysers is quite large; their operation uses the same principles of both internal structure and functionality.

The diagram shows the approximate structure of a typical modern flow-through gas heater. Of course, specific models from different manufacturers may have their own characteristics, but only in matters of layout or ease of use.

1 – fume hood, closed with metal walls, a volume from which gas combustion products are removed in one way or another. It can be completely sealed or connected to the atmosphere (in conventional, chimney or chimneyless columns).

2 – copper heat exchanger. A pipe system with a “jacket” that receives the direct impact of the flame of gas burners. This is where the heating of running water takes place.

3 – ignition sensor. Provides a control signal to open the common gas solenoid valve only if the ignition wick is operating.

4 – ignition wick. May be different principles actions - this will be discussed below.

5 — gas-burner, more precisely, several lines of gas burners, providing their uniform heating of water in the heat exchanger.

6 – water unit, which includes, among other things, a fitting for connecting a cold water main (pos. 9), a screw water flow regulator (pos. 9, not for all models), and a drain valve (pos. 10, also optional, not on all speakers).

Water valve - “frog”

The main element of a water node is always so-called "frog".

In essence, it is a working cylinder, the volume of which is divided into two parts using an elastic membrane.

Both halves of the “frog” are connected to each other by a fitting of a certain diameter. The point is that when water is opened through the column, due to the pressure difference in the two parts of this “frog”, the membrane bends upward and pushes the rod, which is connected to the spring-loaded gas valve, opening it. As soon as the water flow is stopped (the water tap is closed), the pressure under the membrane drops, the valve returns to its original position, and the gas burner, accordingly, immediately goes out.

11 - in this diagram - a unit with microswitches (optional).

12 – gas block with gas hose connection fitting (pos. 13). This is where the spring-loaded gas valve is located, connected by a rod (rod) to the water unit.

14 – in this column – the electronics unit that controls the operation of the water heater. In inexpensive simple speakers it may simply be absent. Pos. 8 – compartment for batteries (batteries) necessary to generate an ignition pulse on the igniter.

15 – connection fitting to the hot water distribution line.

16 – mechanical regulator that switches operating modes, controls the levels of water flow and gas supply. IN modern speakers can be completely replaced with an electronics unit, with control signals transmitted through push-button or touch control panels.

17 and 18 – cascade of column operation sensors. The specific “filling” may be different - this will be mentioned later in the article.

As already mentioned, any model may have its own distinctive features , but the basic principle of the structure still remains the same.

The diagram for connecting the column to the water supply pipes, regardless of its model, is the same for everyone - it is shown in the figure.

So, when you open the water at the hot water tap, water from the cold main begins to flow through the column. The pressure of the water flow opens the gas supply valve, which causes the burners to ignite (more on the ignition mechanism below). The energy of the combustion gas is converted into heating water - and water flows at the required temperature from the “hot” taps on the mixers.

This is one of the main advantages of a geyser - it works exclusively at the moment when hot water is required, the rest of the time being in “standby mode” or in the off state. The owners of the house (apartment) use hot water only when needed, and at the same time do not depend on work in any way.

The second main advantage is, of course, operating costs. So far, at a cost of natural gas no other energy carriers can compare.

The speaker, of course, also has disadvantages, and considerable ones.

• It will not be possible to install it on your own - coordination with the relevant organizations, drawing up and approval of projects is required (unless, of course, the house was previously equipped with such water heaters).
• The operation of the dispenser, even in its most modern version, still requires all residents to comply with certain safety rules.
• A stock of heated water is not created, unlike an electric or gas boiler.
• The initial installation of the column may involve very large-scale work to ensure the removal of combustion products or to create forced ventilation.

It should be noted that the designers of geysers managed to solve most of the “old problems” of gas water heaters. instantaneous water heaters. Nevertheless, a certain number of people still have some kind of bias towards them. Therefore, in the next section of the article we will try to take a closer look at modern ones precisely in the light of persistent myths about their danger or inconvenience.

Video: general structure of a typical gas water heater

Modern geysers – should we be afraid?

An interesting feature of geysers is that, willingly or unwillingly, they can even change demand, and therefore prices, in the secondary housing market. Realtors won’t let you lie - very often one of the main issues during the initial consideration of proposals is connecting the house to a centralized hot water supply and, accordingly, the presence or absence of gas water heating systems.

It is characteristic that there is no unity of views on this issue. Of course, people, exhausted since childhood by the old Soviet ones, with their whims, noise, unsightly appearance, with constant “pressure” from elders about strict rules of use and the danger of violating them, they don’t want to hear about purchasing an apartment with gas water heaters.

However, there is also the opposite category - people who are already familiar with the fickleness of public utilities, with inflated tariffs and payment by meters for hot water (moreover, in order to wait for the first drops of hot water, it is often necessary to pour at least 3 ÷ 5 minutes of cold water, since the circuits circulation in many multi-storey houses are simply cut off). And such experienced clients, on the contrary, will be more satisfied with housing with a speaker. However, many people prefer to combine both possibilities - this is the most reasonable approach.

What are the main “myths” about geysers that continue to live, scaring away potential buyers of such equipment?

1. The column is very difficult to operate; it requires independent ignition with matches and constant monitoring.

Let's figure it out.

Well, firstly, any technique requires control, regardless of complexity. No one blames the gas stove for this open flame, or a faucet in the bathroom, which also needs to be monitored so that it does not leak over time.

Secondly, lighting with matches can only be found on those very “rarities” of the Soviet installation. Perhaps they are still produced somewhere, however, all, without exception, modern models worthy of mention are fired up differently.

— The simplest, “imperfect” modern speakers are equipped with piezo ignition. Before use, it is necessary to light the igniter wick by pressing the corresponding button, while turning the control handle to the appropriate position. Even this scheme is considered “outdated”, is used less and less and is giving way to other principles of ignition.

— Electric ignition is popular. At the moment the water starts, a sensor is triggered, which gives a signal to the electric igniter. At the same time, a channel for limited gas supply to the torch opens and a spark is generated to ignite it. The energy for sparking comes either from installed batteries (usually 1.5 or 3 volts) or from the power supply.

- One more modern method is the "HidroPower" system. A hydraulic turbine is built into the cold water supply pipe into the column. At a certain liquid pressure (usually about 0.3 - 0. 5 bar) the turbine induces an electrical charge sufficient to produce a spark for ignition of the igniter torch, which then it will transfer the fire to a common gas burner.

All this takes a long time to read - but in fact, the process of automatically igniting the flame when water is turned on occurs within just a few seconds.

So, in modern water heaters, no special human intervention is required (except for first opening the gas tap): turn on the hot water and use it.

By the way, you can immediately give an answer to a possible problem - why do you need an ignition burner (torch) at all? Surely it’s impossible to immediately ignite the main one?

It is forbidden! Until the torch warms up the sensor, the gas start solenoid valve will not operate. The very small amount that is taken at the moment of starting on the wick does not pose any danger to people - it will easily escape into the ventilation. But if suddenly the column accidentally goes out, the sensor has cooled down, then the gas supply will be blocked - the solenoid valve will close the line completely.

2. It is a very common belief that the column is a very explosive device.

What could explode there? If we are talking about gas, then it is no more dangerous in this regard than a regular gas stove. In the same way, provided that there is no leak, ventilation is normal, there is no place for an explosive concentration of gas to come from.

If we talk about the likelihood of an explosion of an overheated volume of water, then a boiler in this regard is probably even more dangerous. In the column, with its flow principle of operation, there are much fewer such conditions for an explosion. Moreover, in any (even the oldest and most imperfect) there are always at least two lines of “defense”, about which at same mentioned: an electromagnetic valve, which will not allow the burner to ignite independently, and a “frog” water valve, which shuts off the gas in the absence of water flow.

3. The fear is somewhat similar to the second point: there may not be an explosion, but a gas leak will lead to poisoning and a sad outcome.

You can refute it by citing all the same arguments that were presented two paragraphs above. And we can only add once again: the degrees of protection of a conventional gas stove are much lower, and the likelihood of a gas leak from the stove or oven into the living space is much higher. Nevertheless, for some reason, they are more afraid of gas water heaters in this regard, although this is completely illogical.

4. Another very persistent, but completely incomprehensible prejudice is that a gas water heater will completely ruin the interior of the kitchen.

Probably, only someone who can’t get the image of an old, rust-covered ancient pump with metal pipes leading to it in his imagination, can say this only.

Blaming modern geysers for being unsightly is the same as making similar complaints about refrigerators, microwaves, hoods, ovens, etc. Gas water heaters fit perfectly into the kitchen decor, take up very little space, and sometimes stand out against the general interior background just by the presence of a chimney pipe. (and even then - not always).

Prices for the range of heating boilers

Heating boilers

What Another thing to consider when choosing a column

So, we come to a common opinion: there is no need to be afraid of geysers, they should become reliable and safe helpers in the household. This means that we should take a closer look at the criteria that should be taken into account when choosing this device in a store.

Gas water heater power

Under this parameter lies the ability of the geyser to heat a certain amount of water per unit of time to the required temperature. In general, the entire variety of these devices can be divided into three classes:

Low power geysers. The rating does not exceed 19 kW, and such a water heater is capable of serving only one point of consumption at a time.

Medium power speakers include devices rated from 20 to 28 kW. Usually they are already enough to simultaneously draw heated water in two places.

The most powerful are geysers that produce 29 kW or more. Their performance is even enough to take a bath in one place with simultaneous, for example, washing dishes in the kitchen, or with simultaneous using hot water in three places is quite enough for any “everyday” situation, even in a large country mansion.

It may be objected that kilowatts, although they are indicated in the product passport and on the information plate on the case, still mean little to the average user. It’s difficult to argue with this, so we’ll try to explain this meaning more clearly.

The main purpose of the column is to raise the water temperature from the initial value ( TVx) to what is necessary for domestic use ( TN). The difference between these two values ​​(delta) will show what our water heater is capable of.

ΔТ = Тн - Твх

The “delta” itself is not interesting - you need to know how much water the column can heat for such a difference per unit of time. (usually measured in liters per minute).

How to determine the required power?

It can be taken as a statement that for the normal functioning of a kitchen sink, about 4 liters of heated water per minute are required. For taking a shower, 6 liters is usually enough. (These values ​​have been tested in practice, and, by the way, they are what are used to guide the development of special economizer devices in the form of aerators or special fittings, which, even if desired, do not allow the use of larger volumes, thereby helping to save water).

The power of the required water heater can be calculated using the formula:

M = ΔT × Σv/14.3

M – required power,

ΔT– heating value (see above)

Σ v– total volume of simultaneous consumption;

14,3 – coefficient taking into account the heat capacity of water.

Let's assume that a column is selected that allows simultaneous use of a shower and sink in the kitchen. The total volume will be Σ v= 4 + 6 = 10 l/min.

Magnitude ΔT– depends, of course, on the inlet water temperature. If we assume that water comes from a water supply with a temperature of about 10 - 15 ° WITH, then a rise of 25 degrees should be quite acceptable - the output will be about 40 ° WITH, which is enough for both taking a shower and washing dishes.

In total we get:

M = 25 × 10 / 14.3 = 17.4 kW

It is clear that this value is the lower permissible limit. It is recommended to add another 15 - 20% reserve to it, and then round up to whole numbers. We get 21 kW. The speaker you purchase must have this power. Of course, all models of water heaters have their own gradations and capacities, but you need to buy one so that the value is not lower.

Perhaps this may seem too complicated. In addition, the initial temperature value may be different, for example, in winter time the water may have about 5 degrees at the inlet. In order not to force readers to “suffer” with formulas, it is better to provide a table in which the power of the column will be linked to the inlet temperature and the overall performance of the device, provided that it supplies water to the mixer at 40 ° WITH:

Usually both power and ΔT are the basic values ​​of the water heater and must be indicated in the technical documentation.

And the most accurate calculation using the same formula will be possible with the proposed online calculator.

Using it is easy.

• First, the temperature that is planned to be obtained at the output of their column is indicated. At the discretion of the future owner - for some, 40 degrees is enough, but maybe someone wants it cooler or, conversely, hotter.
• The next step is to indicate the temperature of the water supplied to the column. Here you can proceed either from existing circumstances. For example, from some sources - wells, boreholes, storage tanks, water is supplied, regardless of the time of year, always at approximately the same temperature. And you can calculate for the most unfavorable conditions, when the water is so cold in winter that it is close to the freezing line.
• Next, you need to indicate (check the boxes) those hot water collection points that, according to the owners, can be used simultaneously without interfering with one another. Of course, if you supply water to all plumbing fixtures at once, then you probably won’t find such a powerful device.

But this is all decided at home, so to speak, by administrative methods. And it’s difficult to imagine a situation where one family member, for example, is washing dishes in the kitchen, while a second one is standing in the shower stall, a third one is taking a bath, etc. And the calculator, by the way, will help you fully imagine what can be used at the same time.

• All other values ​​- the average statistical consumption at points of consumption and the heat capacity of water - have already been entered into the calculation program.
• All that remains is to press the “CALCULATE…” button - and the answer will be given, expressed in kilowatts of the required thermal power of the column. In addition to the calculated value, another one will be shown - taking into account the 15% power reserve, since “driving” the water heater to the limit of its operating capabilities is far from the best solution.

The first geysers appeared in 1895 in Germany, and in Russia they began to be actively used only in the middle of the last century. At that time, the country was experiencing a housing boom, and hot water supply and a private bath became mandatory attributes city ​​apartment, just connect to common system Not everything worked out at home. It was then that in Khrushchev and early Brezhnevkas they began to install columns – instantaneous gas water heaters. There was little choice, and in terms of ease of use, the first units left much to be desired. Today, such devices have become more technologically advanced, functional and safe, and their range has grown significantly. Let's try to figure out how to choose a geyser for an apartment or a house, and we'll figure out what parameters you should definitely pay attention to.

No. 1. Types of gas water heaters: instantaneous and storage

Depending on the device, gas water heaters are divided into two types:

• flow-through;
• cumulative.

Wall-mounted instantaneous water heaters are popularly called geysers. They are the most widespread. Storage-type devices are practically not used in domestic spaces.

Instantaneous gas water heaters

The geyser does not have a storage tank and is intended for instant water heating. Inside the unit there is a heat exchanger through which a water tube passes. There is a gas burner under the heat exchanger. As a result of gas combustion, heat is generated, which heats the water passing through the heat exchanger. Exhaust gases are collected in a collector and discharged to the street. This circuit diagram operation of the column, but the operating features of some components may differ from model to model.

In the simplest columns light the burner you will have to manually, more expensive models provide automatic ignition: as soon as someone turns on the hot water tap, the column will start working, and will turn off when the tap is closed. The water temperature can be regulated either by a simple gearbox or by sophisticated modern electronics.

From your school chemistry course, you must remember that to burn gas, you need oxygen, which is contained in the air. Simple household speakers equipped with open combustion chamber and receive air from the room. Combustion products are removed either through normal chimney(option for private houses), or through a horizontal pipe with a fan providing forced draft. The latter option is used in apartment buildings.

Gas water heaters are equipped multi-stage security system, therefore they cannot cause any harm, unless, of course, the installation was carried out correctly and you do not violate safety precautions.

Advantages of geysers:

Some manage to install the speaker even in rooms not connected to a gas pipeline, since there are models that allow powered by gas cylinder.

Gas water heaters also have disadvantages.:

Storage gas water heaters

Similar devices in design resemble electric boilers. The only difference lies in the source of heat: instead of electricity, gas is used here. The basis of such a unit is storage tank where the hot water supply is stored. A tube passes through the tank - this is a heat exchanger, inside which hot gas combustion products move. A burner is installed at the bottom of the tube, where the combustion process takes place. So that the gases, moving upward, have time to give up all their heat, the heat exchanger receives a complex design with dividers.

Tank volume ranges from 50-500 liters, but the most widespread models are 100 and 200 liters. For a family of 2-3 people, a unit with a volume of 80-150 liters is suitable. The tank receives reliable thermal insulation, so a once heated supply of water can be stored for a relatively long time - there is no need to turn on the device every time.

To the main advantages cumulative gas water heaters can be attributed:

• efficiency;
• availability of a constant supply of hot water;
• possibility of installation where the gas supply line is weak;
• opportunity to work with big amount water intake points.

Similar units take up a lot of space, but this is not their main drawback. They are standing quite expensive, have not become widespread in our area, so their range is extremely modest. Most people opt for flow-through heaters or. Due to the low popularity of this type of unit, we will focus our attention on how to choose a geyser - a device with a flow-through type of heating.

No. 2. Gas water heater power

The power of the geyser is indicated in kW. It is directly related to productivity equipment and indicates how many liters of water per minute the column can heat. It is worth noting that the best geyser is not necessarily the most powerful device. It all depends on how many people live in the apartment, and how many of them can use hot water at the same time (or how much is installed). It is believed that one mixer is capable of flowing 6-7 l/min. It is enough to multiply this parameter by the number of taps, add a small margin and get the result. The power is indicated either on the column itself or in the technical documentation for it. For example, a column with a power of 23-24 kW allows you to heat about 14 liters of water per minute to a temperature of about 25 degrees.

Based on power, speakers are divided into several types:

• 17-20 kW – minimum power sufficient to supply one water intake point, i.e. you can either take it comfortably or wash the dishes - it will be difficult to do both at the same time. Their productivity is 9-10 l/min, no more. Option for a small family or one person;
• 20-26 kW - medium power columns, heat 15-20 l/min and are suitable for heating water up to comfortable temperature for 2-3 points of water consumption. The most popular option;
• more than 26 kW - powerful units for large families and private homes.

In pursuit of power, do not lose common sense and do not forget to take into account the water pressure indicator. There is no point in buying a column designed to heat 25 liters of water per minute if the water supply network is not capable of providing such pressure.

No. 3. Gas water heater ignition type

The type of ignition is one of the most important parameters columns. It determines how often you will approach the device, as well as how safe and economical the process of generating a flame will be. So, one of the following can be used in geysers: ignition types:

Columns with electric ignition can be divided into two types: volatile and non-volatile. In volatile ones, the ignition system is connected to the household electrical network. If you live in a city apartment and do not experience any special problems with the supply of electricity, then this is quite a good option. Ignition in non-volatile electric speakers can be implemented in several ways:

No. 4. Combustion chamber type

To choose a gas water heater, you need to pay attention to a lot of technical details, and the type of combustion chamber is one of the most important moments. There are only two options here:

• open combustion chamber;
• closed combustion chamber.

Open chamber speakers- the simplest and cheapest. They use air from the room in which the device hangs to burn gas. The intake is carried out through the holes at the bottom of the column. Such units are installed in kitchens or in separate utility rooms ( great option for owners of private houses). Combustion products are removed through the chimney due to natural draft. These types of devices are characterized by minimal noise during operation, but are more suitable for private homes, as they require connection to a chimney. In addition, in the room where the device will be installed, it is necessary to provide sufficient.

Columns with a closed combustion chamber get air from the street. The chimney in such units is horizontal, goes out through the wall and is represented by a coaxial pipe (pipe in a pipe). Through the inner part of the pipe, combustion products are removed to the street using a fan, and air is supplied to the column through the outer pipe. You can install such a unit in any room, it is safer, but you will have to pay more for such a speaker, and the operation of the fan depends on the availability of electricity and is accompanied by slight noise.

No. 5. Removal of combustion products

We have already partially discussed this issue above, but now we will dwell in a little more detail. Depending on the type of carbon monoxide removal, there are:

• classic, with chimney. Great for homes that already have a chimney. Otherwise, it will have to be built separately. For residents apartment buildings In most cases, such an option cannot be implemented;
• chimneyless or turbine. Combustion products are discharged through a pipe, a hole for which is made in the wall. Combustion products are drawn out due to the operation of the fan.

The room in which the speaker is located must be well ventilated. If they were installed, you will have to equip them with a ventilation valve.

No. 6. Column heat exchanger type

The durability and wear resistance of the column is directly related to the material used to make the heat exchanger:

It turns out that the preferred options would be stainless steel and refined copper.

No. 7. Water and gas pressure

For each column, the data sheet specifies two main water pressure parameters: the minimum at which the unit will turn on, and the maximum - the pressure that the heat exchanger can withstand without losing its integrity. It is advisable to clarify all the parameters of your water supply network before choosing a gas water heater. For city apartments where speakers are used (and these are mostly Stalinist, i.e. old housing stock with worn-out communications) it is better to choose a unit that can work with minimal water pressure. Therefore, pay attention to those devices that can heat water at a pressure of as low as 0.15 bar.

High pressure can be destructive to the column, and water hammer, alas, is not uncommon. Buy units that can withstand a short-term increase in network pressure up to 11-12 bar.

Also, do not forget to specify with which gas pressure the column can work. In domestic gas pipelines, the gas pressure is lower than in European ones (13 mbar versus 20 mbar), so when buying a dispenser from a European manufacturer, you need to inquire for which market it was produced and whether it has gas reducer in order to maintain constant pressure.

No. 8. Burner type and power modulation

Burners in geysers can be of two types:

• with constant power. The simplest option, the main advantage of which is its low cost. When changing the water pressure, you will have to manually change the temperature on the column, and you can get tortured. If you do not change the temperature, the water can flow at a scalding temperature. Let's say your neighbor turned on the water or someone flushed the water. The water pressure has decreased, but the flame strength has remained the same, so the reduced amount of water that will flow through the heat exchanger will heat up to uncomfortably high temperatures;
• with modulated power. Everything here is much more modern. You just need to enter the desired water temperature, and the flame power will be adjusted depending on the water pressure. This is the preferred option. Of course, control of water temperature is present on all water dispensers, but conventional devices cannot adapt to changes in gas pressure and pressure, and units with modulated power will produce water with a clearly defined necessary parameters. Such speakers are more expensive, but they are not only more comfortable to use, but also more economical.

Of course, the preferred option would be a burner with modulating power.

No. 9. Gas water heater security system

Many people are still afraid to use geysers. Data on real estate sales show that apartments with similar equipment are 15% cheaper than similar ones, but without gas water heaters, and 70% of buyers do not even consider buying such housing. If you approach the selection and operation of a gas water heater wisely, then all risks can be minimized. It is important that the column automatically turns off when there is no supply of water, gas or the necessary draft, and does not allow poisoning carbon monoxide. For this purpose, modern units are literally stuffed with all kinds of security systems:

No. 10. The best manufacturers of geysers

It is difficult to argue with the well-known fact that they produce high-quality, reliable and durable equipment. When safety and comfort are at stake, it’s better to overpay a little, but sleep peacefully, so we recommend pay attention to gas water heaters from such manufacturers:

Finally, we note that there is no need to be afraid of geysers - you just need to learn how to choose them correctly and ensure compliance with the operating rules.