DIY decorative stone has proven its practicality and durability. It is much lighter than natural stone, which eliminates the need to create additional reinforcement for the surface on which it is laid.

Artificial stone is used both for finishing the house inside and outside (for example, the base, corners of the house, etc.)

This finishing material is very convenient for creating facade cladding: it has, on the one hand, a flat edge, and on the other, a surface similar to natural stone.

• Strength - repeated tests have shown that in terms of most mechanical qualities, artificial gypsum stone is very strong.
• Integrity and structure - the material looks like an original piece of stone. The properties of artificial analogues remain unchanged anywhere in the material.
• Moisture resistance - products do not absorb water and do not change their properties when humidity changes. The formation of mold or mildew is excluded.
• Durability - artificial material, unlike the original stone, is not subject to erosion, so its service life is unlimited.
• Chemical resistance - this type of finishing is used even for the basement floors and facades of city buildings, which most often come into contact with aggressive heavy chemicals.
• Fire safety - has poor thermal conductivity and does not burn, which allows you to bring any creative ideas to life. In addition to walls, you can also cover stoves, fireplaces and other fire hazardous areas.
• Beauty - such products are incredibly attractive and beautiful. The use of natural analogues will not allow achieving such effectiveness, because artificial material can be combined in any way.
• Maintainability - even a broken artificial gypsum stone can be returned to its original appearance with your own hands.
• Here I would also include the fact that making decorative stones with your own hands is not so difficult and anyone can do it.

Types and composition of artificial stone

Agglomerates are stones of the first type, used to create interior items and various furniture. Bar counters, sinks, kitchen countertops and window sills are made from agglomerates.

Other groups are intended for internal and external cladding of architectural elements and various surfaces.

Types of artificial stone:

1. Decorative stone made of gypsum - imitation of ancient or aged ceramic brick.
2. Wild stone - has standard dimensions and the correct parallelepiped shape. It has only one side that imitates natural chipping.
3. Imitation of naturally formed chips, boulders, pebbles, cobblestones.

Different types of artificial brick have different compositions. For production can be used:

• white cement;
• gray cement;
• stone chips;
• natural gravel;
• sand.

The wear-resistant and strength characteristics of the material can be increased by adding special additives and strengthening components.

The external resemblance to natural rock is ensured by the addition of mineral coloring pigments to the composition.

Synthetic gypsum stone

These are a few examples of the appearance of artificial gypsum stone, but in reality there can be many of them.

Thanks to its aesthetic appearance and interesting structure, it can be used for the interior of any facade. Ease of processing and light dispersion make it possible to create a wide variety of shapes consisting of unusual elements.

Artificial brick, its properties:

• fire resistance;
• excellent warmth and;
• ease of processing;
• environmental friendliness;
• high strength;
• low specific gravity.

Tools and materials

The most important thing is to decide on the choice of the shape of the decorative stone.

Only by following technology and using high-quality materials can you make a truly high-quality stone yourself without large investments.

• filler: granite, marble, any screenings, sea or river sand;
• model plaster or gypsum general construction material;
• water;
• lemon acid;
• iron oxide pigment of red, brown or yellow color;
• putty knife;
• construction mixer or powerful drill with an attachment;
• special polyurethane form;
• sprayer for flowers.

How to make artificial stone

Without a prepared form, production will simply be impossible. The easiest way to make artificial stone with your own hands is from, since it has an unlimited service life. In addition to gypsum, they can be used for casting concrete products. Such forms do not react to alkali, which is part of concrete. Silicone molds are not durable and are used only for plaster.

If you mix only gypsum with water, the material will become too brittle and you will not be able to use it for installation. To avoid this, do the following: gypsum is mixed with lime and carefully mixed with a construction mixer. The resulting mixture is poured into a mold and left to harden. Please note that there should be no cold air with drafts in the room. Beginners often encounter this problem - they mix the solution for a long time, which makes the product brittle. Gypsum resembles a thick porridge as it does not harden completely.

Another important point is the removal of bubbles, which give the product a weak base and an unpresentable appearance. They get rid of them by installing a vibrating table.

Model making

The manufacturing procedure always begins with the selection of the source material - a facing stone of suitable size and shape is selected. Silicone is used for the mold. Next, a box of the most suitable size is made or selected, which should be larger than the source stone; it will be used as formwork.

It, together with the stone, is lubricated with a thick layer of any lubricant. The stone is placed at the bottom of the box. You will need a large number of these forms with formwork, this will increase productivity.

Now you can pour silicone into the prepared formwork. To seal it, use an ordinary oil brush moistened with a soap solution (even Fairy will do). After filling the mold with silicone, its surface is leveled with a spatula lubricated with Fairy.

The poured mold dries for about 3 weeks, after which the structure is disassembled and forms are obtained for creating artificial stone products. Small surface defects are sealed with silicone.

Pouring technology

The forms are laid out level on a flat surface. This is necessary to ensure that the tiles are uniform in thickness and even. The work must be carried out at an air temperature of at least 18 degrees, which will reduce the time of gypsum crystallization. The proportion of water and gypsum is determined independently. To increase the strength of the material, 10% sand is added.

After pouring, the molds are covered with corrugated glass and compacted by vibration. The procedure takes about 2 minutes. The plaster will harden within 15 minutes, after which it is removed from the molds and dried in the open air.

Painting artificial tiles to look like stone

You can add solution dyes to the gypsum mixture - this is the easiest way. However, you can move away from this technology, since there is also external painting. For this method you will need special paint and a very ordinary brush.

The picture shows the treatment of artificial stone with a water repellent.

You can start painting after the stone has completely dried. The surface is well wiped and cleaned of dusty deposits, after which paint is applied to the front of the stone. You may need several coats of paint to get the best effect.

Do-it-yourself façade finishing

Before you start decorating your house facade, you need to learn about some methods, features and rules for laying artificial bricks. Concrete and brick facades do not require pre-treatment. Decorative elements are simply attached with glue. Glass, plastic, metal and wood require additional coating before laying decorative elements. Thus, the surface becomes resistant to moisture. For a more durable connection, a plaster mesh with a plaster solution can be applied to the facade.

To glue synthetic bricks, a special glue is used, which is based on cement. The glue must be applied to the surface to be finished. It can also be applied to the front surface of the stone, but you must not allow the glue to get into the front surface as this will damage the lining.

The construction market offers a variety of products manufactured using the latest technologies. It contains interesting combinations of materials that produce striking visual results.

In this article we will talk about such a finishing material as decorative gypsum stone and its use for interior and exterior decoration.

Gypsum facing stone and its properties

Even in ancient times, craftsmen from India, China, and Egypt used gypsum for exterior and interior decoration. Plaster was used to cover walls, floors and ceilings in various rooms.

Such widespread use is explained by its uniqueness: the mineral stone had the ability to regulate the microclimate of rooms due to good air conductivity.

Currently, facing decorative artificial stone is a composite material, which includes high-strength gypsum. Due to its qualities, it received the name “gypsum polymer stone”.

Properties of decorative gypsum stone:

• low specific gravity;
• material strength;
• environmental friendliness;
• ease of processing;
• high level of sound and heat insulation;
• maintains the required level of humidity;
• fire resistance.

Thanks to its interesting texture and aesthetic appearance, decorative stone is suitable for the interior of any room.

The stone is used to cover the internal and external surfaces of walls, both in children's rooms. It looks great when finished with design elements and is absolutely safe.

The fine dispersion of gypsum and the ease of its processing make it possible to create a variety of architectural forms consisting of interesting elements.

The low specific gravity facilitates the use of decorative stone even in the cladding of thin partitions between rooms.

Walls lined with artificial gypsum stone are easy to clean and practically do not become dirty. The only drawback of this material is its hygroscopicity.

Making artificial stone from gypsum with your own hands

As a rule, professional production of artificial stone from gypsum occurs in a factory. However, it is quite possible to make it yourself.

Some craftsmen have turned the interesting and exciting activity of making decorative stone into a quite profitable business. Moreover, without large investments and with minimal effort, its production pays off in a short time.

If certain rules are followed and high-quality raw materials are used, such activities are promising and quite profitable.

The use of natural gypsum in its pure form is not advisable, since the products have low strength and are short-lived. Modern technologies offer the production of compositions from modified gypsum that have high strength and retain the qualities of the natural material.

Technology for manufacturing decorative artificial stone from gypsum

Not everyone can afford natural stone cladding, as it has a high cost. Therefore, it is more rational to use artificial stone made of gypsum or cement, which contains various color pigments, as well as polymer materials.

Required material and tools

• Plaster is white;
• A container, preferably made of plastic, for mixing components;
• Pallet;
• Table and polyethylene roll;
• Forms (matrices);
• Electric drill;
• Fluted glass;
• Any water-based dyes.

Preparation of the workplace

To produce stone, large working areas are not required. Two square meters is enough.

We will provide the workplace with a table in advance. There should be racks with shelves at hand where all the necessary elements and equipment will be placed.

Preparing forms

Attention should be paid to the forms themselves (matrices). The most optimal are silicone molds. They are quite flexible and plastic. But forms made of metal, wood, and plastic are also allowed, although they do not so thoroughly convey the texture of plaster, which reflects the smallest details of the relief and its bends.

Preparation of materials

After preparing the workplace and equipment, we prepare the material. For the gypsum test we need mineral gypsum, anhydride, and clean water. This will form the basis of the plaster test. Sand or similar filler is also prepared.

The process of making stone from gypsum

Preparing gypsum dough

In order to save money, the volume of the solution should correspond to the number of forms.

Since gypsum dough hardens very quickly, you cannot leave the mixed solution for the next time.

We independently determine the proportion of gypsum and water. Having poured water into the container, gradually add gypsum and stir continuously until the gypsum dough reaches normal thickness.

The consistency of the solution should be thick, since segments made from a liquid solution are less durable and take a long time to dry. To make the material stronger, add about 10% sand.

Processing forms (matrices)

We lubricate the working surface of the molds with a surfactant (a mixture of wax and turpentine 3:7), this is done so that the finished (frozen) stone can then be easily removed.

This mixture can be made using a water bath, which promotes uniform and complete dissolution of the wax. The mixture is applied in a thin layer to the inner surface of the mold.

Next, to protect the stone from the formation of shells, we apply liquid gypsum to the working surface of the molds.

Place the prepared forms in a tray.

Creating Color

Mix the desired dyes with plaster. We use separate containers for this.

We pour the resulting shades into molds. As a result, we get a rather heterogeneous color.

Pouring plaster

After this, we pour the bulk of the gypsum.

Using a spatula, carefully level the plaster. We cover the molds with pre-prepared corrugated glass, and then subject it to vibration for even laying. This procedure will take approximately 2 minutes. The hardening time of the gypsum is approximately 15-20 minutes. When the glass freely separates from the molds, remove the products and dry them in the open air.

How to lay decorative gypsum stone

When fixing such gypsum tiles to the base (for example, a wall), the contacting surfaces are primed.

After this, glue the gypsum stone. Suitable glues include mastic, assembly glue, water-acrylic glue, a mixture of gypsum and PVA, sealant, and cement-adhesive mortar.

You can change the geometric parameters of such a workpiece using an ordinary hacksaw.

One of the articles has already discussed the process of how it is performed, which, in fact, can be found.

In fact, making decorative stone from gypsum is not difficult. Of course, “the first pancake is lumpy” cannot be ruled out, but nevertheless, the result is worth it.

A rich imagination and flight of fancy will help you find original color solutions and textures (you can even make artificial marble from gypsum). Thanks to this decoration, your home will be filled with a unique flavor, and elements decorated with its help will add extraordinary comfort and beauty to the interior.

Making artificial stone from gypsum - video

Decorative stone made of gypsum - photo in the interior

In terms of mechanical resistance, color range and variety of surface textures, artificial stone is in no way inferior to natural stone, surpassing it in ease of processing and ease of finishing.

Key advantages of artificial stone:

• unlike natural material, artificial stone can be made into thin tiles, which reduces the weight and cost of products while maintaining the necessary strength;
• even at home, such a stone can be produced in the desired shape for a specific application site without additional adjustment;
• artificial stones can be immediately made perfectly smooth without such expensive procedures as sawing, grinding and polishing;
• there is no need to transport the material, since it can be produced directly at the site of use.

Types of artificial stone

One of the main advantages of this material is the ability to produce it with a surface and texture that imitates any natural stone.

The shapes of artificial stones are:

• chipped - with an uneven surface and edges;
• sawn - with smooth, even edges;
• rubble, similar to ordinary boulders;
• arbitrary, embodying any fantasies of the master;
• decorative.

Depending on the purpose of use, artificial stone can be made from several types of materials. For interior decoration, plaster and acrylic are used. For exterior work, the most suitable material is cement, which is resistant to moisture and temperature changes.

In terms of cost, the most expensive is acrylic stone, followed by gypsum products, and the most economical material is cement. To make the stone more durable and save the main raw materials, sand, small crushed stone, marble chips or fiber are added to the pouring mixture, which prevents cracking of the finished products.

Plasticizers help improve the physical characteristics of stone. These substances reduce the volume of water in the mixture and increase its density.

Depending on the source material and methods of its processing, the following types of artificial stone can be made at home:

• molded gypsum - due to low frost resistance, it is suitable only for interior work, and the temperature in the room during its production must be at least +18°C;
• concrete (cement-sand) molded - frost-resistant, during production the temperature in the room can be +12 ° C and higher;
• reinforced concrete of any shape - usually made piece by piece directly at the site of use (artificial boulders, cobblestones or slabs).

Molds for making stone

To produce artificial stone at home, you will need a mold and a casting mixture. You can either buy a ready-made form or make it yourself.

Ready-made matrices are made of polyurethane and silicone. They usually already come with plasticizers, pigments and fiberglass. Such forms are produced for the production of decorative material of various sizes and thicknesses with imitation of any natural or artificial stone - slate, brick, cobblestone, sandstone or rock.

The choice of shape depends on the area of ​​the object and the available budget. Polyurethane matrices are expensive and are designed to produce several hundred high-quality impressions. The silicone mold is more budget-friendly, but with its help you can make no more than 20-30 products.

Making your own mold

First of all, you need formwork. This structure is best made from boards or plywood. The frame must be connected so that there is not a single gap left. The formwork should be 3 cm higher and 1 cm wider than the original stone sample.

Any lubricant, for example, grease, is generously applied to the bottom and walls of the frame. After this, a sample stone is placed in the formwork, which is also generously coated with lubricant. This procedure is necessary so that the finished form can easily move away from the original stone and frame.

At home, the mold is made from silicone sealant. In this case, you can use the cheapest silicone. Squeeze it inside the formwork in a spiral, starting from the center and moving towards the walls until it is filled.

To avoid bubbles, the silicone must be carefully smoothed with a wide paint brush. The brush is first dipped in a solution of dishwashing detergent. An ordinary soap solution will not work, since due to the alkaline environment it can change the properties of acidic silicone.

After filling the formwork with silicone, it is recommended to smooth the surface of the future form with a spatula soaked in the same detergent.

Dry the mold at room temperature in a well-ventilated area. Drying time - 15 days. After this time has expired, the structure can be disassembled and a stone sample can be removed from it.

The output is convenient silicone molds, which are ideal for making artificial stone at home. If there are cracks or other irregularities on the surface of the mold, carefully fill them with silicone.

How to paint artificial stone

To give the stone the desired color, add a coloring pigment to the solution when mixing it. For these purposes, it is the pigment (iron oxide inorganic dye) that is needed, and not the color for paints.

The pigment colors can be mixed with each other to create the desired shade. The amount of pigment is determined in practice. It will be possible to find out exactly what color the final product will be only after the stone has completely dried.

The dye can be applied directly to the silicone mold before pouring the mixture. It is better to paint over the form not entirely, but in fragments. This will give the casts an individual design and help create a better imitation of natural stone.

Creation of artificial stone from gypsum

Most often, artificial stones are made from gypsum at home. For this technology you will need the following materials:

• white plaster;
• river sand;
• warm water;
• large plastic container;
• pallet;
• ready-made form;
• corrugated glass;
• water-based dyes.

In addition, you need to prepare your workplace. To make artificial stone from gypsum, you do not need a large area. Just a few square meters will be enough. It is important that all the necessary racks and shelves are at hand.

Instructions:

1. Prepare the required volume of solution equal to the number of molds. The gypsum hardens quickly, so it cannot be left until the next pouring procedure.
2. Add water to a plastic container and pour plaster into it. The solution should be thick. To increase the density of the material, you can add sand to the mixture in a ratio of 1 to 10.
3. Grease the bottom and sides of the mold with wax and turpentine. This measure will make it easier to remove the frozen stone from the mold.
4. Pour the gypsum solution into the mold. Using a spatula, carefully level the surface of the future stone.
5. For maximum uniform installation, it is recommended to cover the molds with long corrugated glass and subject the workpieces to light vibration for two minutes.
6. The plaster hardens in about 20 minutes. After this, the glass can be removed and the casts can be removed from the molds. The resulting products are dried in the open air.
7. When the stones are completely dry, they need to be painted. Don't forget to remove dust and other debris from the surface first. After this, use a brush to evenly distribute the dye over the surface of the stones.

Artificial stone made of cement

Artificial stones for external use are usually made from cement. This material is much cheaper than gypsum, but the strength of products made from it is an order of magnitude higher.

To make cement stones at home, you will need the following materials and tools:

• cement;
• warm water;
• putty knife;
• container for mixing the solution;
• fine sifted sand;
• separation composition;
• ready-made forms;
• reinforcing mesh;
• coloring pigments and brushes.

Manufacturing technology:

1. Mix cement and sand in a ratio of 3 to 1. Add to them the coloring pigment necessary to create the desired shade.
2. Slowly pour water into the resulting mixture until the solution acquires the consistency of thick sour cream.
3. Fill the molds halfway with the mixture, then shake them thoroughly to compact the cement.
4. To increase the strength of future products, place a reinforcing mesh on top and fill the molds with mortar to the very top.
5. After completing the filling procedure, draw several lines on top with a stack or nail to create shallow grooves. This measure will help improve the adhesion of future stones to the application surface.
6. The stones are removed from the molds 12 hours after pouring and dried for two weeks. After removing the impressions, do not forget to thoroughly rinse the molds to remove cement residues.

If the coloring components were not added to the mixture before pouring it into the molds, the stones can be painted after they have completely dried. Before painting, be sure to clean the surface of the casts from dust and debris. Apply paint evenly to the surface of the stones, creating the desired pattern, and let the product dry.

For several thousand years, natural stones have been used to decorate buildings and structures. Today this is a fairly expensive material, but it has an alternative - making artificial stone with your own hands at home. If all actions are performed correctly, it will look attractive, and its cost will be significantly lower.

Using stone in interior decoration can achieve unexpected results. It is perfect for decorating the entire room or its individual elements, such as a fireplace and columns. Making artificial stone with your own hands is not difficult, but you need to correctly follow the entire sequence of procedures.

In terms of mechanical resistance or other qualities, artificial stone is in no way inferior to natural stone. In addition, it has several important advantages:

There is a similar article on this topic - Bath stones: which ones are better to choose?

• At home, artificial products can be made in thin tiles. This will reduce the weight of objects, but at the same time maintain strength;
• When working independently, it becomes possible to make a stone of the required shape for a specific place;
• Its production can occur at the point of use, so transportation waste is eliminated;
• It is possible to obtain a smooth stone. This eliminates polishing costs;
• Artificial stone at home can be created in irregular shapes. This allows you to imitate the household stone variety.

Molds for making artificial stone can be purchased at a specialized store, but it is recommended to make them yourself. You need to start by choosing one of the samples. A stone is selected that matches not only its size, but also its shape.

Silicone is used for the main material. To make the mold you will need to take a box of suitable dimensions. It should be larger in shape than the stone taken as a sample. The box will act as formwork.

Afterwards, you need to apply a thick layer of grease to both the box and the selected sample. Then carefully place the stone at the bottom of the formwork. To increase productivity, it is recommended to create several boxes at once along with forms.

The next step is to pour silicone into the formwork. For subsequent compaction, you need to use a simple paint brush, previously soaked in a soap solution. After the final filling of the form, it is recommended to carefully level the entire surface using a spatula. It is also best to soak it in a soap solution.

The poured mold will dry for 15 days, and only after this period can the box be disassembled and the sample stone removed.

The result is ready-made silicone molds necessary for making artificial stone yourself. If small cracks or defects are found on the surface, it is recommended to additionally fill them with silicone.

Tip: Instead of soap, you can use a few drops of Fairy detergent to create a solution.

Making a mold, video:

Creation of artificial stone from gypsum

Materials

The technology for making artificial stone from gypsum is the most popular. At the preliminary stage, to create it, you need to prepare the following materials with tools:

• plaster in white;
• anhydride;
• warm water;
• river sand;
• a plastic container necessary for mixing all the elements together;
• pallet;
• matrix;
• electric drill;
• corrugated glass;
• water-based dyes.

To produce artificial stone from gypsum you do not need a large area. A few squares will be considered quite sufficient. To begin with, you should carefully consider the arrangement of your workplace; all racks and necessary shelves should be at hand. The next step of the work is preparing the gypsum solution.

Manufacturing technology

After preparing the workplace and creating silicone molds, you can begin creating it. To do this, below are instructions:

DIY polystyrene concrete. - there is more useful information here.

• To save money, you need to prepare an amount of solution that is equal to the number of forms. The gypsum dough cannot be left for use next time, as it quickly hardens and becomes unusable.
• You need to determine the proportions of water with gypsum yourself.
• After adding water, you need to pour plaster into a container specially prepared for this. You need to add it in small portions. This will allow you to obtain gypsum dough with normal thickness. The consistency of the solution should be thick. The liquid mixture takes longer to dry and has low strength.
• You can get a harder material by adding 10% sand to the mixture.
• The next step is to lubricate the working forms and their surfaces. In this case, wax and turpentine are used. This procedure is necessary; without it, it is difficult to remove the frozen stone from the mold.
• The preparation of this mixture is carried out in a water bath. This allows the wax to dissolve. Afterwards the substance is applied in a thin layer to the surface of the mold.
• When drying, shells may form on the stone. To protect against them, it is recommended to apply liquid plaster to the workplace. It is best to place stones on a pallet.
• To obtain a stone of a certain color, you need to mix paint with gypsum. This is recommended to be done at the stage of mixing the gypsum dough. To achieve this goal, it is best to use separate containers.
• Afterwards, you need to fill the main part of the stone into a special form. Using a spatula, carefully smooth out the mixture.
• The forms are covered with long corrugated glass, then vibration is carried out. This is a necessary stage of work for uniform installation. This process will take about two minutes.
• Hardening of the plaster takes about twenty minutes. The glass is easily separated from the mold, so there will be no difficulties with this activity. We take out the resulting product and let it dry completely in the open air. Heat treatment is not recommended, as it greatly spoils the performance of decorative stone made from gypsum.
• Upon completion of the process, the stone must be painted. It is necessary to prepare a brush along with special paint. To paint, you need to remove dust and similar dirt from the surface of the stone, then evenly distribute the coloring composition. After final drying, it is recommended to apply several more layers, this will allow you to obtain the desired shade.

Artificial stone made of cement

Required materials and tools

The production of artificial stone at home can be made not only from gypsum, but also from cement. This process will require the following tools and materials:

• Cement. It can be replaced with Portland cement;
• Warm purified water;
• Putty knife;
• Capacity in which the cement mortar will be prepared;
• Sand with small fractions, pre-sifted;
• Special composition, necessary for separation;
• Brushes and paints in a variety of shades and shapes;
• Molds for production and mesh, making the stone more durable.

All tools along with materials must be prepared in advance. This will save time, as well as quickly and efficiently complete the process associated with the production of stone for the facade.

You will be interested in this article - Pros and cons of aerated concrete blocks.

Artificial stone made from cement, video:

Manufacturing process

After completing the preparation of the form, the following several stages of work are carried out.

• The first step is to mix sand and cement.. This is necessary for the first layer. It must be applied to a silicone mold. The ratio of cement to sand will look like this: 1:3.
• Next you need to add a certain amount of water. The mass should be similar to the consistency of thick sour cream.
• If you intend to paint a ready-made artificial stone, you will not need to add any components. If it is already necessary to give a shade to the future product, then it is recommended to add dyes at this stage in an amount of 2.5% of the total volume of the solution. The amount of dye should vary depending on the desired color and its brightness.
• As a result, the resulting mixture should be laid out in the finished form, but only up to half.
• Next, the mesh is cut out from the outer mold. It is necessary to harden the stone. The mesh needs to be placed on the mixture, then topped with silicone.
• At the end of the pouring process, you need to draw a sharp element on the top layer to form a groove.. This will allow you to get excellent grip on the surface.

Apparently, the technology is simple and does not require the use of additional equipment. It is recommended to remove the stone from the mold only after 12 hours, and then leave it to dry again for two weeks. During this period, the material will finally gain the necessary strength. After completion of work, the mold must be thoroughly rinsed.

If no coloring components were added to the composition during the manufacturing process, then coloring can be completed during the manufacture of the stone.

To do this, you need to clean its surface from dust and dirt. Apply paint evenly using a brush. To create shades, it is recommended to use paint with a darker base.

Supplement the article with your comments, photos and video :

Artificial stone imitates natural stone, its color, texture, shape, and is made from gypsum or a cement-sand mixture with the addition of dye. You can make artificial stone at home; the technology is quite simple.

Artificial stone made from gypsum is used for cladding interiors, since gypsum is not a moisture-resistant material, products made from it are used for interior wall cladding. If you need to make stone for facade work, then sand-cement mortar is used instead of gypsum. In any case, the manufacturing technology is identical, the only difference is the composition of the solution.

Artificial stone is usually made in the form of rectangular tiles, which makes it easier to lay on walls and other surfaces.

Production of artificial stone from gypsum.

To produce stone, the casting method is used; for this you will need matrix forms, which can be rubber, polyurethane or silicone.

Forms, of course, are on sale, but it will be cheaper to make them yourself. To do this, you need to purchase liquid silicone and several samples of artificial stone, all of which are sold in construction supermarkets.

We make molds for making artificial stone with our own hands.

Molds can be made from polyurethane or silicone; let’s take a closer look at the mold making process.

First, we need to make a formwork box for pouring the mold. The box can be made from used chipboard and wooden planks. The box must have a side height of more than 2 cm higher than the thickness of the stones. The boards can be screwed to the chipboard with self-tapping screws; the joints between the panel and the boards must be sealed with silicone sealant. If even one gap remains, the liquid silicone will then simply flow out of the box.

Samples of stones are placed at the bottom of the box with the textured surface facing up; there should be a gap of at least 1 cm between the stones. The stones must not only be laid, but fixed and glued to the bottom of the box. This can be done using silicone sealant or glue.

Then we open the surface of the stones and the entire surface of the box with a release agent, preferably using a wax-based lubricant. Leave to dry for 1 hour.

We mix two-component polyurethane or silicone with a hardener and pour it into the formwork with stones; the stones should be completely covered with a layer about 2 cm thick above the stones. In the photo, the mold is filled with polyurethane.

After the mass hardens, the formwork is dismantled and the stones are removed.

As a result, we received a reusable matrix for casting artificial stone.

In this way, it is possible to produce both a polyurethane matrix and a silicone one.

Technology for manufacturing artificial stone from gypsum.

Let's start making stones from gypsum. We cover the mold matrix with a release agent, it is possible without lubricant, but with lubricant the form will last much longer.

Then we take the dye and use a brush to randomly tint the shapes of the matrix to give the future stones a natural look.

Place the mold on a flat horizontal surface.

Mix the solution to the consistency of liquid sour cream. It is important to mix the solution correctly; if you mix it too liquid, the stones will crumble when removed from the matrix; if it is too thick, it will not be able to fill all the cavities and the stones will end up with air pores.

Composition of the mixture for artificial stone.

To make stone from gypsum, you can use the following composition:

• Plaster - 2 parts.
• Water – 1 part.

Another solution option:

• Gypsum – 5 parts.
• Water - 2 parts.
• Coarse sand (sifted) – 1.5 parts.

Composition of cement mixture for facade stone:

Coarse sand (sifted) – 6 parts.

• Cement M 400 – 3 parts.
• Water – 1 part.

Plasticizer (dosage according to instructions).

The dye is first mixed in water, and then added to the solution with water during mixing. You can additionally apply dye to the mold or then tint the finished stone.

Instead of plaster, you can use alabaster, you can try casting from plaster and from alabaster, then compare the result. Stones made from alabaster will be smoother, while stones made from gypsum will be rougher.

We gradually fill the mold with the solution, we need to try to ensure that the solution fills all the cavities in the mold.

The forms with the solution are left to harden; the hardening time of the gypsum solution is 20 - 30 minutes.

Stripping. Turn the form over and place it on a flat surface. We carefully lift the form by the edge and remove it, the stones are removed and remain on the table.

Manufactured artificial stone from gypsum can be used for decorative cladding of interior walls, and concrete for exterior use. If you make a stone yourself, it will cost several times less than buying a ready-made one.

Recently, many people increasingly want to decorate the walls with decorative stone in their apartment, but for some this is too expensive (from 800 to 1200 rubles per square meter), especially if a large volume is needed. But you can make the stone yourself at home and save a lot of money. Today I will tell you in detail about how to make a decorative stone with your own hands from plaster at home or in the garage with step-by-step photos.

From this article you will learn:

What is needed to cast stone?

What gypsum to use How to prepare for pouring How to calculate the amount of gypsum per form How to strip formwork How to dry stone A few tips from the author

High quality stone molds

Form "Leon"

Shape Leon, 0.25 m2

Palace stone

Palace stone

Americano form

Americano brick shape 0.1 m2

Leo Heraldic

Lion shape (panel)

German brick

German brick shape

Templar Cross

Templar Cross Shape

Sword Flamberge

Shape Sword Flamberge

Wood brick

Wood Brick Shape

VIEW ENTIRE CATALOG

Tools and materials

To produce decorative stone you will need:

1. Forms of the required type. High-quality and inexpensive forms can be purchased on our website formodeloff.ru;
2. Gypsum;
3. Drill or screwdriver with mixer attachment;
4. Scales;
5. Bucket;
6. Wide (40 cm) and narrow spatula (10 cm);
7. Scoop or ladle;
8. Water;
9. Spray;
10. Laundry soap;
11. Beaker.

You can make molds for decorative stone yourself or order them. At the beginning of my activity, I made the molds myself, using silicone compound, then I bought polyurethane molds, because... they are stronger.

It is better to use a rubber bucket for mixing - it will be easier to clean. If this is not available, then an ordinary plastic one with a flat bottom will do, it is advisable that it be as narrow as possible, otherwise the plaster will not mix well when mixed. Instead of a bucket, you can use any other container; some make the mixture in cut-off plastic bottles with a volume of 5-6 liters, others cut off a canister.

What kind of plaster is needed?

You can use any brand of building gypsum. There are expensive brands of gypsum, and there are cheap ones - what's the difference?

Gypsum Magma G6 B3

On a bag of plaster it is usually written, for example, “gypsum g-16” or “gypsum g-6”. The number means the hardness of the gypsum after drying, g-16 is a very strong gypsum, products made from it are more difficult to break than, for example, from g-6. If you are planning to make a stone for yourself (not for sale), then use the cheapest gypsum, yes, products made from it will not be so strong, but the gypsum is cheap and by gluing the stone to the wall you will not break it.

If mass production for sale is planned, then it is better to use gypsum of a higher strength to make the stone stronger. The fact is that a stone can break during transportation, and imagine a situation where you made a delivery, the buyer checks the goods, and there are a lot of broken tiles.

For sale, some stone makers use cheap gypsum, adding various plasticizers and additives, such as SVV-500, to increase its strength. You can read about this here.

Join our group vk.com/kamnedelofff - There you can always ask a question and get an answer. Or just exchange experiences.

I also want to say about the color of the plaster. At first I used Samara gypsum g-16, the tiles turned out gray after drying. Now I use Magma G6 B3 (molding), after drying the color of the tiles is white. I like working with Magma, it is finely ground gypsum, hardens a little slower and costs 3 times less than Samara g-16.

Pouring stone

Preparation of the workplace

Before pouring the stone, the molds need to be wetted so that the stone is easier to remove. It is best to moisten with water diluted with laundry soap. Take the soap, grind it a little and pour it into warm water. Wait a little, shake and pour the solution into a spray bottle.

The table on which you will be pouring must be level, otherwise the tiles may turn out uneven. Place the mold on the table, spray it with a spray bottle so that it is well wetted, but not too much water.

Wetting the mold with soapy water

How to calculate the amount of plaster per mold?

If you have purchased molds, you can ask the seller how much plaster and water you need. But it also happens that, following the advice of the seller, you end up with a lot of mixture or the solution turns out to be too liquid or thick. A lot depends on what kind of water you have and the gypsum itself.

Ask a stone maker!

If you have any questions about plaster, molds or decorative stone, you can ask me a question in the comments.Ask a question

For example, I work, as I said above, with Magma G6, diluting it with water 1 to 1, i.e. I add 1 liter of water to 1 kilogram of gypsum, the mixture is perfect. A very good friend of mine also works with this gypsum, but he lives not in Russia, but in Kazakhstan and adds 0.8 liters of water to this amount of gypsum. Everyone's water is different and that's a fact.

Now I’ll tell you how I empirically determine the amount of ingredients for new forms. I take dry plaster, fill the mold with it, cutting off the rest with a spatula on top. Then I pour it into a bucket and weigh it. I remove about 30% from this amount. I dilute it with water 1 to 1 and fill it. If there is a lot of solution, then approximately “by eye” I remove the plaster and water in equal proportions and fill it again. If there is not enough mixture to completely fill the mold, then I add more, etc. In this way you can find out the required amount, the main thing is not to forget everything and write it down in a notebook.

By the way, I noticed this pattern: if for 1 mold, for example, you need 1 kg of gypsum and 1 liter of water, then it is not a fact that for 2 molds you will need 2 kg of gypsum and 2 liters of water. As practice shows, 2 forms require a little less of each ingredient.

Mixing and pouring process

Once you have determined the amount of plaster and water needed, take a flat bottom bucket and fill it with water.

Weighing gypsum

Then take a screwdriver with an attachment, lower it into the water and turn it on so that the speed is not too high. Then start pouring plaster from the second container. You should not immediately pour out the entire mass of plaster, as it will be impossible to stir it without lumps. Pour in the plaster slowly while stirring. The solution should be fluid and without lumps.

You shouldn’t stir the solution for too long, the plaster sets very quickly and you simply won’t have time to level it on the mold.

After this, take a bucket and pour the mixture into molds, first filling the bottom of all the tiles while the solution is thin. Add the rest on top and level it with a wide spatula. Do not press too hard on the trowel as the back of the tiles will be oval when dry.

After 1-2 minutes, go through the spatula again, because... the plaster begins to swell and the back side may turn out uneven.

Pouring decorative stone

Stripping

After 15-20 minutes you can do the unmolding. To do this, pull the form onto the edge of the table so that part of it hangs in the air. Pull it down until it separates from the stone and remove the tiles. Some specialists turn the mold over on the table and, as it were, remove not the stone from the mold, but the mold from the stone.

Finished stone after casting

How to dry stone?

If it’s summer outside and you have your own home, then the tiles can be laid out on the street or in a greenhouse (ideal), as in the photo.

This is the best way to lay the stone when drying

This way the stone will be well ventilated and dry quickly.

If you do not have such conditions, then you need to make a dryer. But again, if you are making a stone for yourself, then you can dry it by any available means, because... The process of creating a dryer is financially expensive. If you are planning production, then you cannot do without a good dryer.

You can make a dryer from metal profiles and cellophane, as we did here. On the sides there were 2 heaters of 2 kilowatts each. The disadvantage of such a dryer is that the stone was poorly ventilated and did not dry well. We soon remade it, but that's another story.

Our old dryer

Let's sum it up

So, you now know how to make decorative stone at home. For 1 square meter, you will need from 4 to 10 kg of gypsum. For example, some types of brick require 45 rubles worth of gypsum per square. Agree, this is very profitable than buying in a store. From a bag of Magma I get 7 square meters of thin brick.

Multi-mold casting

• Make or buy larger molds so you can produce more stone in less time. The coolest forms with an area of ​​0.25 square meters. By filling 4 forms you will receive 1 sq. meter of finished product. Don't buy molds that are too thick; it's not profitable. For bricks, the maximum thickness should be in the range of 0.5 - 1 cm, for slates from 1 to 2.5 cm, depending on the type.
• Buy a scale. With scales you will have almost no waste, because... all proportions will be the same. I initially used a 700 gram scoop as a measuring stick. But it turned out that there were a lot of residues or, on the contrary, there was not enough solution.
• Use respirators when preparing the solution. You get a very unpleasant sensation when you inhale dust from plaster while mixing. And the lungs become clogged.
• Do not use high speed drills. Knead at low speed to avoid bubbles appearing on the surface of the tiles.
• Using a vibrating table is not necessary for making gypsum tiles, so don't worry about it.

Many of us consider artificial stone to be a new material, however, it has been known to people since time immemorial. Ordinary clay brick, cement, gypsum and lime mortar are varieties of artificial stone.

The popularity of this material began to grow after new polymer compositions and forms appeared that made it possible to use it for interior decoration and landscape design.

In particular, artificial stone can be used to make tiles for cladding walls and floors, steps and other elements of stairs.

It is used for the manufacture of countertops, decorative stucco and sculptural compositions, borders and paving slabs.

In terms of strength and durability, some types of artificial stone are not inferior to natural stone, surpassing it in ease of processing and ease of finishing. This material can be made into very thin tiles, which reduces its weight and reduces cost. For natural stone, such a thickness is unattainable due to its high fragility.

Not inferior to natural material in terms of color and variety of surface textures, artificial stone is more profitable to use for several reasons:

• it can be immediately made perfectly smooth, which eliminates expensive sawing, grinding and polishing operations;
• there is no need to transport it, since this material can be made with your own hands at the place of use;
• the amount of waste is minimal, since there are no losses for transportation and processing;
• In addition to a rectangular shape, it can be made figured or shaped, which allows you to finish surfaces exactly in place without additional adjustment.

Types of artificial stone

When considering the question of what artificial stone is made from, it is not difficult to choose a technology acceptable for use at home.

Depending on the raw materials and methods of processing, artificial stone is divided into the following types:

- Ceramic (tiles)– the manufacturing process requires the creation of high temperatures to roast raw materials and transform them into a monolithic conglomerate.

- Plaster (cast). It can be done at home. The costs of raw materials and production are minimal, however, such stone is suitable only for interior decoration, since it is not resistant to frost.

- Concrete molded. The cost of production is more expensive than gypsum, since the resource of molds for casting concrete is less. Suitable for self-production. Frost-resistant.

- Free-formed reinforced concrete. This artificial stone is made piece by piece, usually at the site of use (artificial cobblestones, boulders, slabs).

- Hot-curing polyester. In terms of its mechanical and decorative characteristics, it is superior to some types of natural stone, but the synthetic compound hardens only in a vacuum at elevated temperatures. It is not suitable for home production.

- Cold-hardening cast acrylic stone. Suitable for home production. In the temperature range from +175 to 210 it is thermoplastic, therefore it allows additional molding after casting.

How to make artificial stone with your own hands?

This requires two basic components: mold and casting mixture. The home technology for producing artificial stone can be implemented both in a factory-made polyurethane mold and in a home-made silicone mold. It all depends on the total footage of the finishing and the budget allocated for this work.

The polyurethane matrix is ​​quite expensive, but it allows you to make several hundred high-quality impressions. Silicone mold is more suitable for small-piece stone production and home sculpture crafts. Its resource usually does not exceed 20-30 castings.

For making your own silicone molds a set of natural stone or tiles is laid out on a horizontal, stable and flat surface, having previously covered it with polyethylene. After this, a frame made of wooden slats or plastic is placed on it. The height of its sides should be 1-2 centimeters higher than the height of the copied material.

The surface of the tile and the inside of the sides are coated with solid oil or cyatim. You can take the cheapest silicone - acidic. It is squeezed out of the tube into the mold in a spiral, starting from the center to the sides until it is filled.

To prevent the formation of bubbles, the silicone is smoothed with a wide fluted brush. It needs to be dipped in a solution of dishwashing detergent. Soap solution is not suitable here because it is alkaline and can ruin the acidic silicone. After filling, the surface of the future form is smoothed with a spatula, also moistened with detergent.

Dry molds for making artificial stone at room temperature in a ventilated area. The drying rate of the silicone composition is approximately 2 mm per day.

Molding mixtures

Gypsum artificial stone

The mixture for gypsum stone is prepared from gypsum grades G5 - G7. It is made in small portions, counting on simultaneous filling of no more than two forms, since the setting time of this binder does not exceed 10 minutes.

Composition of the mixture: gypsum, citric acid to slow down hardening (0.3% of the weight of gypsum), water - 60-70% of the volume of gypsum. The pigment is taken at the rate of 2 to 6% of the weight of the gypsum. The dosage of the coloring substance is selected on test samples of castings.

concrete stone

You can make artificial stone inexpensively and with high quality with your own hands from concrete. Unlike construction, here the initial composition of the components is slightly different: take 3 parts of cement for 1 part sand. The proportions of the pigment (you need to use an alkaline resistant one!) are the same as for gypsum stone.

The addition of polymer additives reduces the brittleness of this material and increases its abrasion resistance.

Cold hardening acrylic stone

This material is made on the basis of acrylic resin and hardener. The recommended volume of mineral filler to acrylic is 3:1. The amount of pigment is taken depending on the total weight of the filler (on average from 2 to 6%).

As an inexpensive filler, you can take gravel, stone chips or granite screenings. Before preparing the mixture, the filler is washed with dish gel, then calcined over a fire and rinsed with clean water.

The preparation process consists of three stages: first, the pigment is mixed with the filler. Then the acrylic resin is mixed with a hardener and a filler with pigment is added to it.

The time during which the acrylic mixture must be poured into the mold (from the moment the hardener is introduced into the resin) is no more than 20 minutes. The setting time of the mixture lasts from 30 to 40 minutes. The product requires 24 hours to completely harden.

If you are interested in countertops made of artificial stone, then the best materials for their manufacture are concrete or acrylic. The concrete product is heavier and does not allow you to create surfaces as varied in pattern as when using acrylic resin. However, the low cost of raw materials and the simplicity of the casting process partially compensate for this disadvantage.

Release agents

For different types of artificial stone, different compositions are used to separate the form from the product.

For gypsum stone, the optimal solution is one consisting of artificial or natural wax in turpentine in a ratio of 1:7. To do this, add wax shavings in small portions, stirring, to turpentine heated in a water bath to +50 - +60 C.

For concrete stone, conventional lubricants are used (litol, emulsol, cyatim). Before pouring the acrylic composition, the mold is lubricated with a solution of stearin in styrene (proportion 1 to 10) or cyatim.

When using a homemade silicone matrix, it must be protected from deformation that occurs when the hardening gypsum stone and acrylic resin are heated. To do this, before pouring the working mixture, it must be placed in a tray with fine dry sand so that the thickness of its layer is from 2/3 to 3/4 of the height of the mold.

4341 0 0

How to make artificial stone with your own hands

Have you decided to cladding your façade beautifully, quickly and inexpensively? In this case, artificial stone is exactly what you need. By the way, the result of finishing work can be made even more affordable, because you don’t have to buy artificial stone, but make it yourself at home. In this article I will talk about what artificial stone is, how and what to make it from, so that it does not differ in appearance from purchased products.

General information about finishing materials and production technology

Finished masonry of stone or brick houses looks great, but, unfortunately, not everyone can afford such construction. Installation of artificial stone allows you to make an ordinary concrete wall that looks like stone or brick.

Artificial stone is a type of finishing tile, and therefore the cost of finishing with such material will be cheaper than building and using natural stone.

Cladding stone can be purchased at most hardware stores. But the same material is easy to make yourself. To do this, you will need a mold, a liquid base that can be poured into the mold, and paint and varnish materials with which you can paint the finished product.

What to make facade tiles from

To make artificial facing stone with your own hands, casting materials with a semi-liquid or viscous consistency are used. The material is poured into an elastic mold and hardens there for a certain time, gaining the necessary strength.

The problem is that not every mixture is suitable for pouring into a mold. A suitable material must be resistant to cracking, must set quickly, and must completely fill the mold without forming voids or seals.

Which mixtures meet these requirements?

Cement-sand mixture TsPS. This is a traditional mortar, the composition of which is supplemented with silicate adhesive “liquid glass” for greater strength and weather resistance.

Ingredients:

• Cement M500 -1 part of the total volume;
• Sown river sand – 3 parts;
• Water – 4 parts of the total volume;
• Liquid glass - added when mixing the solution at the rate of 0.5 liters per 10 liters of mixture.

Advantages:

• Easy to prepare solution;
• Low cost of the finished result.

Flaws:

• Long-term strength development of the mixture in the form;
• Porous structure of the finished product;
• Low strength of the finished product
• High probability of cracking.

A mixture based on gypsum, cement and plasticizers. Initially, gypsum mixtures were used only for interior decoration. But by adding plasticizers, it is possible to reduce the porosity of the structure of the finished material to the levels of cement-sand stone.

The advantage of the gypsum mixture compared to its cement counterpart is a more accurate texture of the finished product without external wear, chips and other cosmetic defects

Ingredients:

1. Gypsum G3-G5 – 1 kg;
2. Cement M500 – 50 grams;
3. Sodium oleate (sodium salt) – up to 10 grams;
4. Plasticizer “Friplast” – up to 15 grams;
5. Water – 500 grams.

Advantages:

• fast setting;
• crack resistance.

Flaws:

• porous structure;
• low weather resistance and, as a consequence, the need to apply a protective layer of varnish.

Solution preparation technology

The quality of the finished product depends not only on the selection of ingredients, but also on the uniformity of mixing the solution.

Liquid base manufacturing technology:

1. Initially, dry mix all the ingredients without covering them with water;
2. After the dry mixture of cement or gypsum is the same color and shade, mix it with water and mix thoroughly;
3. Let the solution stand for 5 minutes, then mix again. The base prepared in this way can be poured into molds.

Considering the small volumes of the solution, you can use a clean plastic bucket with a volume of 10-15 liters and an electric drill with a mixer attachment to mix and mix the ingredients.

Forms for pouring mortar

What should be the forms into which we will pour the prepared solution?

• The inner surface of the matrix should more or less accurately repeat the texture of the stone or brick finish;
• The matrix must be elastic so that when the solution hardens, the mold can be removed many times;
• The matrix should be inexpensive.

In domestic construction stores, stone matrices can be purchased at prices ranging from 1.5 to 5 thousand rubles. However, you don’t have to buy a matrix because you can make it yourself.

The cheapest forms for making gypsum tiles are pieces of basement siding that imitates brickwork. You don’t even need to do any tinkering here, just turn the purchased piece of siding upside down and pour the pre-prepared solution inside. Vinyl is moderately elastic, and therefore removing the finished tile will not be difficult.

How to make a silicone mold?

Illustrations	Manufacturing process step by step
	Preparing ingredients. We buy 2 standard tubes of silicone sealant per 0.2 m² mold and 1 kg of regular flour.
	Matrix formation. We lay out a matrix from pieces of artificial stone on a flat surface.
	Die lubrication. Lubricate the surface of the prepared matrix with cosmetic Vaseline, fat or other lubricant so that the frozen silicone can subsequently be carefully removed.
	Kneading the mass. Squeeze the silicone into the flour and knead the dough until a homogeneous plastic mass is obtained.
	Mold making. Roll out the dough on top of the prepared matrix, forming a border on the sides. As a result, the silicone mass should fill all the reliefs of the workpiece.
	Dismantling the mold. You can remove the form after a day. During this time, the silicone dough will completely harden and the likelihood of ruptures will be minimal. To make dismantling the silicone product easier, use a spatula.

How to use the form

Illustrations	Making stone in silicone mold
	Preparing the form. Lubricate the silicone mold with an aqueous solution of laundry soap. The solution is most conveniently applied from a spray bottle.
	Pouring the solution. The prepared solution is poured into the cells.
	Leveling the solution. The solution is dispersed into the cells with a wide spatula.
	Product extraction and drying. After a day, the imitation is removed from the molds and left to dry for three days, after which it can be painted.

Illustrations	Making stone in vinyl mold
	Preparing the mold and solution. We undermine vinyl siding from the inside out with lubricant, this is especially true if the matrix has already been filled. Using the ingredients selected in accordance with the technology, mix the mixture and prepare a solution.
	Pouring the solution. The solution is poured into each cell separately. To ensure that all tiles have the same thickness, the poured forms must be laid on a perfectly flat surface without horizontal distortions.
	Removal of finished products. After a day, gradually bending the edge of the vinyl mold, we remove the finished tiles. If the vinyl siding has been well lubricated, the tiles should fall out without sticking or being damaged.

How and what to paint

Illustrations	Coloring methods
	Tinting at the mixing stage. If you need a one-color and monochromatic stone, the color is mixed directly into the solution. For working with gypsum solutions, I recommend dry colors, and for cement-based mixtures, liquid acrylic dye.
	Painting the tiled surface. Oddly enough, this is the most common method, in which each individual tile is painted with a brush or spray. The method is labor-intensive and does not guarantee good coloring compared to the previous technology.

An alternative to artificial stone - decorative plaster

If you think that casting blanks for facing stone is difficult and time-consuming, there is a more affordable technology. Here the plaster solution is thrown onto the wall and leveled. A special elastic stamp is used to press a relief imitating stone onto the wet plaster.

Subsequently, the stamped concrete dries and gains the required strength. After the concrete has hardened, the surface of the stone can be primed and painted.

Let's sum it up

Now you know how to make artificial stone yourself. If you still have questions about the proposed instructions, ask them in the comments to the article.