Level the floor with your own hands step by step. Rules and recommendations for leveling the floor

A level floor is the basis quality repairs and will allow the owner to fully experience the comfort of a house or apartment. This reduces the risk of unevenness and any injury. Therefore, in order for all further repairs to go perfectly, you need to know how to level a concrete floor. This task is quite difficult, but if everything is done correctly, it is quite realistic.

Preparatory work

Before leveling a cement floor, you need to properly prepare for the work and carry out several important activities. They will help to significantly reduce time costs and save the master from additional difficulties.

Before leveling concrete floors, it is necessary to correctly select the required materials and tools. The attractiveness and comfort of the floor will depend on their quality. Another important factor for the success of the leveling process is strict adherence to all stages of work and taking into account the advice of professionals. They will help beginners not only avoid most mistakes, but also complete the job in a timely manner. as soon as possible.

Professionals advise the following:

Selection of materials and tools

As a rule, to level a concrete screed, a tool is used that can easily be found in the household. You can also borrow it from neighbors, friends, or rent it from special services.

To quickly and efficiently complete the task you will need:

• building level;
• putty knife;
• perforated corners (will be used as beacons);
• a bucket or deep basin for mixing cement mortar;
• construction mixer or electric drill.

If the surface is not new, then it is necessary to clean it and remove dust. In the latter case, you will need a construction vacuum cleaner. It will help remove the smallest dust and better prepare the surface.

One of the most important stages of preparation is choosing a mixture for leveling the floor or making it yourself. The second option is less preferable, since during the mixing process you can miss one of the components or use it in more. This will dramatically change the properties of the mixture, which can lead to poor quality of the work performed.

To level floors in ordinary apartments, you need to use cement-based mixtures. If the room being repaired is constantly high level humidity, it is best to apply the solution on gypsum base. It is moisture resistant and is not afraid of sudden changes.

Alignment methods

Before leveling the concrete screed, you need to choose the most suitable method for the room. This depends on many factors such as temperature, humidity and type of room.

There are three main methods of leveling the floor, which are often used when renovating premises. Among them are:

1. Using a cement-sand composition.
2. Using dry compositions.
3. Use of self-leveling mixtures.

Cement-sand composition

This screed option is considered universal and the most commonly used. It gained its popularity due to the low cost and availability of the materials used, which can easily be found in any hardware store. Leveling using a cement-sand composition is a rather labor-intensive and time-consuming task. However, to carry out such work, you can not invite specialists, but do it on your own.

This method allows you to achieve high strength and reliability of the coating. It should be taken into account that the mixture can be laid out in a layer at least 3 cm thick. Otherwise, the screed will not be reliable and may collapse.

Work order:

Dry screed

This method of leveling the floor is done using mixtures consisting of quartz sand, granulate, expanded polystyrene, and expanded clay. Any moisture-resistant material, plywood, chipboard, fiberboard, can be used as the main material. The finished screed not only levels the floor, but also additionally insulates and soundproofs the room. Because of these properties, it is often used to renovate apartments in multi-storey buildings.

This work is quite simple and even a beginner can handle it without difficulty. Among positive points dry screeds worth noting are:

1. Little time spent on work.
2. Possibility of laying the coating immediately after finishing the leveling process.
3. If necessary, you can lay wiring or pipes inside the screed.
4. There is no need to use liquid to prepare the solution.
5. Ability to do work alone.

A large number of advantages make this method of floor leveling one of the most popular. Professionals advise dividing the entire surface into separate squares and doing the work gradually.

The process of performing such an alignment is simple and consists of the following steps:

During operation, some unexpected problems may arise. The most common situation is when a craftsman needs to move a sheet of material to another location. However, such actions are not recommended, since you can disrupt the uniformity of the leveling layer and get a crooked floor. In such cases, the situation can only be corrected by returning to initial stage work.

Self-leveling mixture

IN modern construction To level the floor, special solutions are used that independently spread over the surface and are evenly distributed over it. Such mixtures are made on the basis of cement with the addition of modifiers, which help obtain a more liquid consistency.

After such leveling, it is necessary to lay linoleum, carpet or tiles on the floor. If this is not done, the surface of the mixture will absorb various liquids, which will lead to rapid destruction of the coating.

Leveling the floor is done as follows:

Leveling a concrete floor is a rather difficult and energy-consuming task. In some cases, it may take more than one week. At the right approach to the point and following all the recommendations of professionals, you can significantly simplify the entire process and complete it in the shortest possible time. Each owner can complete the task independently.

Carrying out overhaul often forces owners to resort to leveling existing surfaces, and this applies not only to vertical, but also to horizontal areas. Proper preparation of the base has a direct impact on durability and attractiveness finishing materials, therefore to this issue you need to approach it with full responsibility. Today we will talk about how to properly level the floor and what means are best suited for this.

Peculiarities

If you want your home to look aesthetically pleasing and not be embarrassing to show it to guests, then you need to think through and finalize all the details. This applies not only to the color of the finish or furniture design, but also to the neat and smooth appearance of the surfaces. It's no secret that “wavy” ceilings or floors most often catch the eye. Such defects can spoil even the most stylish and original interior by its unpresentability.

To avoid such troubles, It is worth leveling the surfaces that need it. It is necessary to carry out such work before you decide on the finish of the floor. It could be good old linoleum, laminate, parquet board, expensive solid board, soft carpet or tile. All of the above coatings require a perfectly level subfloor. If you lay them on an uneven rough base, they will look sloppy and will not last very long.

You can level the floor yourself. In this case, you need to be as careful as possible. Under no circumstances begin work without reading the instructions for the selected material. Incorrect actions can lead to noticeable deformations of the base, which will not be so easy to get rid of.

It is worth noting that floor leveling must be addressed not only in the process of renovating a city apartment, but also in a private house. Modern manufacturers produce many types of leveling mixtures, which do not have to wait too long to dry.

In addition, thanks to the wide range, there are different ways to lay the leveler on the subfloor, so every consumer can choose the best option for themselves.

Materials

Do not think that only dry mixtures that need to be diluted with water are sold to level the floor. In fact, other practical materials that are easy and convenient to work with are also perfect for such purposes. Let's take a closer look at them.

Plywood

This material is the most practical in matters of dry leveling. Floor screed using such parts is less expensive, especially when compared with the use of special expensive mixtures.

If you are going to renovate a room with high humidity, then It is worth turning to moisture-resistant raw materials. In addition to good old plywood, you can use GVLV, MDF, OSB, chipboard or chipboard.

The choice of plywood base should be approached quite seriously. Depending on the height of the floor differences, sheets of appropriate thickness should be selected. The type of finish you choose and the method of installation will also influence the purchase of leveling plywood. So, for soft carpet or elastic linoleum, it is permissible to install sheets of plywood of small thickness. This choice is due to the fact that these finishing products do not require a perfectly flat base.

If we are talking about such popular coatings as laminate or parquet boards, then it is worth purchasing plywood, the thickness of which is at least 12 mm. It should be thicker, since the above floor coverings require the most flat surface for installation.

There are no phenols or other similar compounds in the composition of FC sheets. Such materials are absolutely safe for human health even in high temperatures. In addition, FC specimens have average moisture resistance and resistance to mechanical damage.

If there is high humidity in the space, then you should contact to FSF brand plywood. This material is more durable and wear-resistant. He is not afraid of temperature changes. However, FSF plywood acquires such good performance characteristics due to the use of harmful formaldehyde resins in the production process. These substances are toxic and hazardous to human health.

In accordance with GOST, the following grades of plywood sheets are produced:

• 1st grade. These are products of the highest quality. There is not the slightest defect on their surface. However, GOST allows for small cracks (no more than 20 cm), as well as the presence of minimal warping of the material.
• 2nd grade. For this grade, materials are manufactured in which minimal glue leakage and wood inserts are acceptable. On the surface of such sheets you can notice scratches and dents, which occupy about 5% of the total area existing surface.
• 3rd grade. Material in this category may have noticeable traces of wormholes on the surface, as well as fused and fallen knots.
• 4th grade. Such materials are of the lowest quality. They have many different defects that appear during their production. But despite the major shortcomings, veneer, as a rule, is glued efficiently and reliably.

Majority experienced craftsmen advises using grade 2 plywood.

Among other things, this leveling material can be sanded or unpolished. This parameter is designated by the letter “Ш”:

• The designation “Ш1” means that the plywood is produced with one-sided sanding;
• “Sh-2” – double-sided;
• “NS” – unpolished material.

On sanded plywood sheets you can find designations for the emission class of free formaldehyde (as is the case with laminated chipboard):

• "E-1" means 10 milligrams for every 10 grams of plywood;
• “E-2” – 10-30 mgm per 100 g of dry weight.

Expanded clay

Currently there are many different materials, which are most often used in leveling the floor base before finishing. However, there are times when there is nothing better than preparing the base with expanded clay. This old and well-known material is indispensable in the following cases:

• If the difference in height of the base is more than 10 cm. If you install a classic concrete screed on such a surface, then its weight can form a serious load on the floors. Expanded clay is recognized as one of the lightest and most undemanding materials. It does not overload the floor structure at all.
• If the base is a reinforced concrete slab. This material is cold. This is noticeably noticeable in the conditions of the lower floors. Using expanded clay you can correct this problem, as it can make the floor a little warmer.
• If there are various additional communications or electric heating systems under the floor level.
• If the repair budget is significantly limited. It is worth noting here that leveling the floor with expanded clay will cost the owners much less than heavy concrete screed.

The main advantages of expanded clay include the following distinctive characteristics:

• Environmental friendliness. Expanded clay does not emit even under temperature changes harmful substances and does not contain hazardous compounds.
• Durability. It lasts a very long time and does not create any problems during operation.
• Thermal insulation characteristics.
• Soundproofing properties.
• Fire safety. Expanded clay is not a flammable material.
• Resistant to temperature changes.
• Low cost.

Experts confidently say that such material is considered an excellent solution for leveling hopeless foundations. It is often used to tidy up foundations with holes and a slope exceeding 10 cm.

In addition, with the help of expanded clay you will not only make the floor smooth, but also provide it with additional noise and heat insulation.

Drywall

Drywall sheets can also be used to level the floor surface. It is laid on the subfloor only after it has been completely cleaned of the previous finish and debris/dust. In addition, to finish the base with drywall, it must be sprinkled with sand. It should completely cover all cracks and irregularities that are visible in the base.

The sand on the floor needs to be properly loosened and leveled thoroughly so that its layer becomes as even as possible and spreads over the entire area of ​​the room. It is worth considering that the sand layer should not be thicker than 2-3 cm.

If there are small depressions in the base, they must be eliminated using a cement-sand composition.

Only after this can the drywall be laid on the floor. Small gaps of 5 mm should be left between its plates. During this period it will be necessary to pour sealant with special protective properties. The ideal option would be a special composition designed for ceramic slabs. It can be found in almost any hardware store.

Immediately after the sheets of drywall are laid out on the sand layer of the base, you need to treat the resulting coating with a special primer. It must be different deep penetration. After all the steps have been completed, you can proceed to installing the finishing floor material. For example, beautiful self-leveling floors are very popular today, under which a plasterboard leveling base is often installed. On top they can be supplemented with laminate or parquet boards.

Fiberboard

This is another common material used in floor leveling. Today, many consumers turn to fiberboard, since it is inexpensive and its installation is quite simple. To make such coatings, wood production residues (shavings, sawdust) are used. Characteristics and properties particle board largely depend on the level of its density, which, as a rule, varies from 150 to 950 kg/sq. m.

It is worth noting that high-quality fiberboard has good thermal insulation properties , therefore it is often chosen as a leveling coating. Often such sheets are laid on top of a cement screed. Also, many consumers choose fiberboard sheets due to environmental friendliness. They mostly contain natural wood waste.

Such coverings are installed quite easily and quickly. Even a person who is far from repair work can easily cope with this work.

If you install fiberboard boards correctly and carefully, they will last for many years and will not cause any trouble to your household.

Mixtures

To level the floor, not only various hard and dry bases are used, but also appropriate building mixtures. They differ from each other in composition, drying speed and other performance characteristics. Let's take a closer look at the most common products that are popular among modern buyers.

Cement and cement-sand

These mixtures are among the most popular. They are classified as universal because there are many modifications of them. Thanks to a wide range of cement and cement-sand compositions, you can choose for any room and any operating conditions.

Currently, in stores you can find high-quality options for leveling the base, having different structures, different number sagging and notches. Most high-quality cement compositions do not shrink.

You can increase the strength characteristics of this leveler using regular PVA glue. There shouldn't be too much of it.

But it is worth considering that hardening of the composition with an adhesive substance will take a little less time, which means that all work will have to be completed even faster. To do this, you can pour it in small portions onto different areas of the available space in the room. It is also worth noting that stripping putty with PVA glue is more labor-intensive. Some people turn to stronger tile adhesives. It will be even more difficult to work with him.

Plaster

Gypsum levelers are recommended for use only in rooms with a low percentage of humidity. They are also not recommended to be installed in rooms subject to regular temperature fluctuations. These recommendations are explained by the fact that gypsum mixtures are able to absorb moisture. This can lead to swelling of the base and loss of its useful characteristics. Such defects are unlikely to have a positive effect on finishing floor coverings.

A distinctive characteristic of gypsum bases is their vapor permeability and no shrinkage. Often, such a mixture is used in the case of a less than reliable sexual foundation. In addition, all factory mixtures are divided according to their main purpose and application technology.

Leveling

Such compositions are necessary for the primary finishing of a rough surface that has many defects and irregularities. Using such means, very strong and reliable bases up to 50 mm are created. As a rule, these types of levelers are applied manually. The material is used exclusively as a special layer. This is explained by the fact that the leveling agents contain large sand particles, which prevent the formation of perfectly smooth and regular coatings.

Self-leveling

Similar mixtures are used for finishing coating. Its thickness can range from 2 to 10 mm. As a rule, such a self-leveler has a viscous consistency. It contains small, finely dispersed particles that spread evenly over the required area by self-spreading.

There are special self-leveling quick-drying mixtures. To fill such a product, one filling material is sufficient. Often, a small work team, in which each of the workers is assigned one or another function, copes with the application of quick-hardening products. For example, this could be direct preparation required quantity mixtures, pouring the solution onto the base of the floor, spreading it over the surface of the base using a special tool, as well as the necessary elimination of air bubbles using a roller.

Some work teams use a rotband to level the floor. However, according to user reviews, this composition does not differ in durability and strength, therefore, its use is usually abandoned in favor of more reliable formulations.

Level determination

The floor level can be determined in different ways. To do this, you can use the following tools:

• Slatted bubble level. The standard line of this device is usually 1 m, but in stores you can find two- and three-meter products. These items are inexpensive, easy to use, and very convenient to use. In addition, bubble levels do not rely on electricity, which makes them self-contained and more practical. True, they cannot measure very large spaces.
• Hydraulic level. Bubble levels allow you to determine the condition of the floor only in small or medium-sized rooms. For larger rooms, it is worth purchasing a high-quality hydraulic level. It consists of special tubular vessels. In the inner part of this device there is tinted water, with the help of which the surface level is determined.

• Laser. It is very easy and simple to use. Most models are highly efficient. To determine the required parameters, it is enough to fix the tool in the desired position (to do this, you should read the instructions). The level will perform all other actions independently.
• Rotary. Using this device, you can not only determine the level of curvature of the floor, but also set and design the obtained values. As a rule, such high-tech items are used by professionals, which is why it is quite expensive.
• Optic. Such devices are more common for measuring territorial areas of the exterior of a room. However, this does not prevent them from being used in determining the curvature of the floor. Optical levels are in many ways similar to rotary levels, but their use in spacious rooms will give more accurate results.

Surface preparation

Before directly leveling the floor surface, it is necessary to properly prepare it. You should not neglect this process if you want the floor covering to serve you for a long time and without problems.

First you need to carefully measure the room in which you plan to level the floor. Then you can move on to choosing suitable materials and methods of laying them. During preparatory work Various problems associated with flooring are often identified. At the same stage, the level of the existing foundation should be examined. For this purpose they are used different levels, both liquid and laser (their list is given above).

Maximum leveling efficiency is achieved by using a material that matches the unevenness on the base surface. For floors that are in almost perfect condition, it is recommended to use high-quality leveling agents or self-leveling agents from well-known brands.

If there are noticeable differences on the base, then it is better to turn to sheet levelers or use cement-sand screeds.

Wooden covering

Absolutely any gender can lose its attractiveness over time appearance and unnoticeably deform. This problem has not spared high-quality wooden coverings either. Over time, old and dry floors can warp and sag, irreversibly losing their ideal flatness. Unsightly gaps often appear between individual boards. On such bases it will not be possible to correctly and accurately lay out finishing materials. decorative materials, That's why In this case, it is impossible to do without leveling the existing system.

You can give the board base a flat surface with your own hands using the following methods:

• scraping;
• leveling using flat wood-based materials (plywood, fiberboard or MDF);
• leveling using a homemade mixture consisting of putty for sawdust And natural wood;
• pouring special self-leveling compounds.

Most often, people choose to level such structures with plywood, since the differences between the boards of a wooden floor often become quite impressive. For such work, it is recommended to use a sheet of plywood of standard dimensions. It is cut into 4 parts. The cutting should be done very carefully so that delamination does not appear on the edges of the sheets.

After these steps, you can proceed to laying the levelers on the base. The joints between laid coverings must be above the joists. In areas where communications are located and in other necessary places, the plywood must be trimmed (also carefully to prevent delamination). After this, the sheets are attached to the base using self-tapping screws with hidden heads. This leveling method is not the most aesthetically pleasing, but for the finishing layer it is great solution, which will perfectly hide all the unevenness of the wooden base.

Concrete base

Quite often it is necessary to carry out leveling in rooms with a concrete floor base. In this case, there are simple step-by-step instructions that will help you carry out all the steps to update the surface quickly and correctly.

If the concrete base does not have too sharp and noticeable changes, then it is best to use modern self-leveling mixtures, which are sold in every hardware store. As a rule, the main component in them is cement. To perform work with such a tool you need:

• fill the dry composition with water;
• Stir well so that there are no lumps or dry particles left in it;
• gradually (in portions) lay it out on the concrete (for this you can call an assistant to the rescue).

The self-leveling solution must fill absolutely all the cracks and cavities present in the concrete base, forming a neat and smooth surface. Such mixtures dry out quite quickly. You can walk on them after 3-4 hours, and after a day you can start laying them decorative covering eg tiles.

If the unevenness on the concrete floor is more impressive and noticeable, then It is worth turning to a high-quality and reliable concrete screed. This leveling method is one of the cheapest and most popular. The technology for installing concrete screed is primarily based on the installation of special beacons. They are installed on the floor (the distance between the beacons should be 500-800 mm), aligned in the same plane using a level.

After this, you need to knead the solution to the required consistency and add special plasticizers to it. Then you can begin laying the resulting mixture on the concrete base of the floor. When the screed “sets”, all the guides will have to be removed, and the remaining grooves will have to be filled with mortar. The surface of the concrete screed must be grouted, however You can start this work only after 4 weeks.

It will also need to be strengthened by treating it with a high-quality primer.

Before you start leveling the floor yourself, you should familiarize yourself with some simple tips to avoid serious mistakes during the work process:

• Avoid drafts entering the room in which you are leveling the floor. And if everything is quite simple with a bathroom or toilet, then in other rooms (living room, bedroom, corridor, kitchen and on the balcony) you need to close all the windows and close the doors (as is the case with wallpapering the walls).
• Never use ventilation devices.
• Be sure to adhere to the drying time of the solution indicated on its packaging/box. They can only be broken if the composition is applied in a thin layer. Two-layer coatings should not be “disturbed” until they have completely hardened.
• Before pouring the existing base, it is recommended to treat the entire area of ​​the room using a special primer. It is necessary to ensure improved adhesion.

• Use only reliable and quality tools, as well as materials and mixtures. Otherwise, the floor may not turn out the way you planned.
• Don't look for overly cheap and affordable leveling products. Too low a price may hide the poor quality of the product.
• Do not forget that the old floor must be completely cleared of the previous coating. Otherwise, the leveling layer may not fit perfectly, which will affect the decorative floor finish.
• If noticeable seams and large gaps are visible on the base (for example, between boards), then they must be covered with putty or the same leveling mixture. For such work, it is worth mixing thicker and more viscous compositions.

• Never neglect preparing the base. This stage is one of the most important in this work, so experts recommend taking it as seriously as possible.
• Always wait until the dust has completely settled while working. You can clean the room with a vacuum cleaner. Do not leave even the smallest debris on the base.
• Leveling the floor in a living room can be done with your own hands, but this process is not the easiest or fastest.

When starting to treat the sexual base, you need to stock up on everything necessary tools, materials and, of course, patience.

Floor finishing often requires the presence of a flat plane that can withstand significant loads. But not all rough foundations have similar characteristics.

To remove these defects, the surfaces are leveled before installing the finishing coating. special compounds and materials.

This process can occur in different ways, its features will be discussed in our article.

Peculiarities

Leveling the floors in an apartment or private house is the main stage in preparing the rough foundation for decorative finishing. Such procedures involve applying a small layer of leveling materials over the main surface.

This technology has several advantages:

• Possibility of obtaining a perfectly horizontal surface. In some cases, it is also used as a finished floor.
• Additional strengthening of the structure. This is especially important for rooms where many people are constantly present. The additional layer absorbs the load and does not allow the base to quickly collapse.

Floor leveling is an operation, the technology of which depends on several factors:

• Surface curvature. If the differences in the base are quite significant (from 2 to 8 cm), then it is advisable to correct such a defect. This phenomenon can often occur in concrete floors, where rough filling was not given much importance.
• Finishing material. The most demanding floors are laminate and parquet, which require a perfectly flat surface. If the surface is leveled under linoleum, then the differences are not so important. Such products only eliminate large irregularities that will stick out after installation of the sheet.

What is the best way to level?

The process of leveling the floor involves the formation of an additional top layer, which is laid strictly in a horizontal plane. To get perfectly level bases, many experts use levels.

To solve such problems, several types of materials are used. Some of the most popular products are wet and dry mixes.

Depending on their composition, they can be divided into several subspecies:

• Cement. The main components here are cement and sand, which form strong structures when hardened. Today, a similar solution can be obtained by simply mixing these products in a certain proportion. But you should understand that factory-made analogues are much better than the home-made version.
• Plaster. This type of leveler consists of gypsum and filler. The disadvantage of such products is that they quickly absorb moisture.

Therefore, it is not advisable to use them in damp areas.

• Tile adhesive. This substance also consists of cement, but it also contains polymer plasticizers. As a full-fledged means for leveling floors, it is used only for minor differences with simultaneous installation ceramic tiles. It is not recommended to use tile adhesive as a stand-alone product, as it is quite expensive.
• PVA with sawdust. A mixture of glue and wood is mainly used for leveling wooden structures. The advantage of the product is its simplicity and low weight. You can even prepare such a solution with your own hands.

Putty can also be used as an aid. But it is also not the main remedy, since it is used to eliminate defects on the basis of floors.

• Polymer compositions. One of the modern products for leveling floors are self-leveling solutions. They are made on the basis of both cement and various polymers. Using these substances, polyurethane screed is made.

In residential premises it is used quite rarely. With its help, so-called 3D floors are obtained. But some types of such liquid floors are not always safe for human health.

Some types of floors are leveled using sheet materials, among which are:

• Drywall. The method of leveling with plasterboard is used for rooms where minimal load is created on the base. Special types of gypsum boards are used today to form dry floors. They are located on an expanded clay substrate, which is carefully compacted.
• Plywood. A universal material that consists of several thin sheets wood The material absorbs loads well and can also withstand moisture. For floors, moisture-resistant modifications of plywood are often used.
• OSB. These products are also available in the form of sheets, which are obtained from sawdust. The material is similar to plywood in many ways. But it is rarely used to level floors, since it can release external environment toxic components. At the same time, the slabs tolerate moisture well, which makes them indispensable products for arranging floors.

When installing such surfaces, special tools, various mastics, and sometimes a metal profile are also used.

Regardless of the technology chosen, experts recommend using only high-quality materials that will not harm human health.

Methods

Leveling floors is a fairly simple operation that can be performed even without any experience. But the technology for arranging the finishing base depends largely on the rough coating on which the finishing layer will be mounted.

Type of flooring

The floor surface can be made of concrete or wood, which previously served as a finishing base. All these coatings can be leveled with your own hands. It is only important to choose the optimal method for solving a specific problem.

Let's start with concrete floors, which can be leveled in several ways:

Arrangement of cement-sand screeds

This option is the simplest. It involves filling the surface cement mortar, which after hardening forms a flat plane. To properly level it, beacons are installed along the entire perimeter of the room at the same level. In some cases, the mixture is compacted using special vibrating slats. But these tools are found only in industrial production.

Dry screed

This type of leveling is also called a bulk floor. Place on the surface of the rough base waterproofing film. After this, filler is poured onto it.

Often expanded clay, sand, slag and other similar products are used for this. They act as a kind of substrate that is well compacted. At the very end, sheets of chipboard, plywood and other material are placed on the prepared surface. They are fastened together with glue or self-tapping screws. This system retains heat very well and lasts for decades.

Self-leveling floor

Installation of such systems is carried out according to simple step by step instructions. Initially, the subfloor is thoroughly cleaned of dust and grease. If there are large holes or cracks, it is advisable to fill them with cement-based mortar.

After this, the level is marked around the perimeter of all walls. When everything is ready, the mixed polymer solution is simply poured onto the surface. A needle roller is used to remove air and provide additional leveling. Please note that this method can also be used for plank floors.

The main thing is to ensure high-quality waterproofing of the base.

Laying plank floors

To do this, logs are laid on the surface of the concrete, between which insulation is placed. After this, boards are nailed to them, which form a flat plane. It should be understood that this option is not universal, since the wood will begin to warp over time and this will lead to its curvature.

Recovery wooden surfaces can be done using the following options:

Looping

This technology involves sanding boards. It is advisable to repair old slats before this procedure. If the wood was fixed with nails, they need to be driven deep. Otherwise, the car will simply break down when it hits metal.

Laying plywood

To do this, you need several sheets of this product, which it is advisable to cut into small squares (1x1 m, 2x2 m). The leveling algorithm involves creating a special substrate under the plywood on which it will rest. This can be done using small pieces of boards or thin logs. The main thing here is to position the support in such a way that after attaching the sheets it forms a horizontal plane.

Supporting elements are placed under the plywood at the corners and several pieces in the middle. This is necessary to distribute the pressure over the entire surface and reduce the risk of breaking. The process is quite complex and requires care and precision. But this type of flooring is well suited for laying parquet and other similar materials.

Putty mixture

It is prepared from PVA glue and sawdust. The result should be a kind of putty. Before applying the solution, it is advisable to thoroughly clean the floor and secure the leveling beacons.

Apply the mixture in thin layers around the entire perimeter. If the height difference is significant, then you need to lay several layers. The thickness of each of them should not exceed 2-3 cm.

It should be understood that some of the methods discussed can be used for any type of base. It is important to analyze whether the material can withstand high humidity.

Room

When leveling floors, it is important to pay attention to the room where this procedure is planned. Each individual room makes its own adjustments to the performance of such operations:

Bathroom

This will allow you to get not only a strong and durable foundation, but also save money in some way.

Balcony

These areas of the house are in a suspended state, so they cannot always withstand heavy loads. The best option for leveling the floor on the balcony may be plywood or wooden logs. If you need to make a cement screed, it is advisable to first assess whether the balcony can withstand the large weight of the mixture.

Kitchen

A room where several are combined functional zones. Theoretically, any type of leveling can be performed here, which depends on the rough foundation. But the best option After all, there will be a concrete screed, which will then fit both under the tiles and under high-quality parquet.

Floor layer

Leveling floors is done in order to get rid of small differences on the surface. Therefore, the thickness of the top layer is not large, since it is not the base. If the screed requires significant thickness, then these floors are constructed for specific purposes. The dimensions of the leveling layer often do not exceed 5-100 mm.

The thinnest floors are those made from self-leveling self-leveling mixtures. They can spread over the surface in a layer of no more than 4-5 mm.

If the floor is formed on the ground, then it is leveled using expanded clay bedding. Here its thickness can already reach 20-30 cm, depending on climatic conditions. It should be understood that installing an additional layer increases the dimensions of the main floor.

One of the primary tasks when carrying out major renovations in an apartment is leveling the floors. This is especially true for housing in old buildings that were purchased on the secondary real estate market. A typical situation is when floor slabs not only have differences within one room, but are also located at different levels in adjacent rooms. To level the floors throughout the entire apartment in one horizontal plane under the flooring of linoleum, laminate and other modern flooring materials, there are several technologies, most of which, after studying the nuances, are quite doable with your own hands. Which floor leveling method to choose in a particular case, based on the complexity of the process, and how much it costs, you will understand by reading the article.

How to measure the floor level?

The method of leveling the floor surface directly depends on the degree of its unevenness. It is impossible to notice unevenness with the naked eye, much less clearly mark the level of the future coating; for this you need to use special measuring tools:

• Water linear level. This is an ordinary bubble level of not long length in the form of a ruler. In order to measure unevenness over large areas, it is used building code or an even strip of the required length on which the level is placed. This measurement method has large errors over large areas; it is used to measure irregularities over an area of ​​up to 2 square meters.
• Hydraulic level. This device is in the form of a transparent hose filled with water and having two flasks with plugs at the ends. This device allows you to accurately mark the horizon around the perimeter of the room and make marks on the walls. It cannot measure irregularities on a plane.
• Laser level. This is a modern and accurate tool, as easy as possible to use. The device gives laser beams in several planes. It is enough to install it in the center of the room, and it will mark the level along the perimeter with a maximum error of 1 mm.
• Level. This is a high-precision optical instrument that allows you to calculate the difference between two given points on a conventional plane. Such levels are used in large-scale construction to work with huge areas.

To work within one room, it is enough to use a laser level. If it is necessary to establish a single floor level in several rooms, then use a hydraulic level with the required hose length.

Updated: 12/25/2018

Replacing floor coverings is impossible without high-quality leveling of the rough base. This can be done in different ways: using wet and dry screed, installing raised plywood floors, or pouring leveling mixtures. In most cases, leveling the floor can be done independently, because there is nothing complicated here.

A plank floor can be a reliable basis for any floor covering if it does not have serious defects. If there are strong deflections, creaking when walking, rotten boards or joists, there is no point in repairing the floor; but if the unevenness does not exceed 10 mm, the paint has peeled off a little or small cracks have appeared, it will not be difficult to correct the defects.

During the work you will need:

• hammer;
• self-tapping screws;
• electric plane;
• drill;
• primer;
• wood putty;
• putty knife;
• brush or roller;
• level;
• waterproof plywood.

Step 1. Elimination of irregularities

All protruding areas on the floor must be removed with a plane; if the elevations are no more than 5 mm, you can use a grinding attachment and a grinder. The nail heads in these areas should be recessed into the boards a few millimeters. After processing the boards, the surface is checked with a building level to make sure there are no irregularities.

Step 2. Putty

Depressions, small cracks and gaps between the boards are sealed with acrylic or PVA-based putty, having previously treated the problem areas with a primer. The putty mixture is well leveled with a spatula, and after drying it is sanded with sandpaper.

Table. Putty mixtures

Name and packaging	Application base	Consumption kg/m2	Maximum layer thickness	Drying time	Price RUR/pack
PVA-based putty, 4 kg	Plaster, concrete	0,450	3 mm	5 minutes	154
putty stone Flower, 25 kg	Concrete, wood, plaster, drywall	1,4	10 mm	24 hours	138
Ready putty Sheetrock, 3.5 l	Any	0,67	2 mm	5 o'clock	350

Step 3: Prime the floor

The puttyed and sanded surface is cleaned of dust and a primer is applied with a roller or brush. Use a small brush in the corners and along the walls so that there are no dry areas left. Since wood is a fairly porous material, it is recommended to prime the floor twice.

Step 4: Lay down the plywood

Plywood sheets are laid out on the floor so that there is a gap of 15-20 mm around the perimeter of the room, and about 8 mm between the sheets themselves. These gaps are necessary to compensate for deformations that occur due to changes in temperature and humidity. The plywood is fastened with self-tapping screws in increments of 15-20 cm, with each row being laid with the seams offset by ½ sheet.

Instead of plywood, you can use gypsum fiber sheets or chipboard with a thickness of 8 to 14 mm. It is not recommended to use fiberboard for these purposes: under the influence of loads, this material takes the shape of the subfloor, revealing the slightest defects. After laying, the plywood is sanded, its horizontalness is checked and it is cleaned of dust. This completes the floor leveling process.

Concrete floors are leveled in several ways - wet and dry screed, dry screed on joists, grinding and pouring self-leveling mixtures. Floor sanding is used on surfaces with minimal unevenness; This method is the fastest and cheapest; the coating can be laid immediately after the primer has dried. Filling with mixtures is suitable for floors with differences of up to 5 mm; wet and dry screeds are designed for the most uneven concrete bases.

Floor sanding

Step 1. The floor is cleared of debris and the surface is treated with a grinder or grinder with an attachment.

Step 2. The horizontalness of the base is checked, all detected cracks and peelings are cleaned, dusted, primed and sealed with thick cement mortar. Instead of a solution, you can use polymer putty.

Step 3. When the putty dries, these areas are sanded again.

Step 4. Carefully remove dust and prime the surface.

Manufacturer	Description	Consumption	Volume and price
PrimeGround	Deep penetration primer with antiseptic	0.08 -0.2 kg per 1 m2 depending on absorbency and surface treated	10 l, 600 rub.
CT 17, Ceresit	Deep penetration primer	0.1-0.2 l/m2 with a single application depending from absorbent foundation abilities	10 l, 500 rub.
OSNOVIT UNKONT T-51	Universal primer	100-200 mg. per 1m2	10 l, 450 rub.
OSNOVIT DIPCONT T-53	Deep penetration soil	50-100 mg per m2	10 l, 500 rub.
Knauf-Tiefengrund	Universal primer	0.07 - 0.1 kg/m2	10 l, 650 rub.

Pouring self-leveling mixture

• primer;
• wide brush;
• squeegee;
• roller with spikes;
• construction mixer;
• dry mix for floors;
• level;
• waterproofing material.

Step 1. Cracks in concrete are expanded along their length, peeled areas are cleaned, and all defects are sealed with mortar or putty.

Step 2. Determine the highest point of the floor and use a level gauge to mark the fill line on the walls.

Step 3. The base is dusted and primed, the primer is applied in two layers.

Step 4. A waterproofing film is spread on the floor, leveled, the edges are placed on the walls, and adjacent strips are overlapped and secured with construction tape.

Step 5. In the proportions indicated on the package, the dry mixture is diluted with water and stirred with a construction mixer. The mixture begins to harden 15 minutes after preparation, so calculate the amount correctly.

Step 6. The mixture is poured onto the floor in the corner farthest from the doors, take a wide spatula and level the polymer along the wall in a wide strip.

Step 7 As soon as the solution is evenly distributed and forms a layer of the required thickness, its surface is rolled with a needle roller, removing air bubbles.

Each subsequent section of the floor is poured in exactly the same way, but no later than ten minutes after pouring the previous one. The boundaries of adjacent strips must be leveled especially carefully to avoid the formation of thickenings. The completely filled floor is covered with film and left to dry; all this time there should be no drafts, changes in temperature and humidity in the room.

Leveling with cement screed

What you need for work:

• water and construction levels;
• large capacity;
• trowel;
• rule;
• dry gypsum;
• guides;
• waterproofing film;
• reinforcing mesh;
• cement and sand;
• primer.

Step 1. Marks are placed on the walls using a water level to indicate the floor line.

Step 2. The surface is cleaned and treated with a primer.

Step 3. A film for waterproofing is laid, with a reinforcing mesh on top. Pieces of plastic are placed under the mesh in several places to raise it by 5-10 mm. There should be a distance of about 1-2 cm between the mesh and the wall.

Step 4. The guides are laid out on the floor so that there is a distance of 20 cm from the side walls, at least 1.5 m between the beacons, and the beacons themselves lie in parallel rows.

Step 5. Mix the gypsum solution and secure the beacons with it. Using a level, check the horizontality of the guides, add a solution if necessary, or vice versa, recess the slats into the plaster. The upper edges of all guides must be in the same plane and coincide with the marking line around the perimeter of the room.

Step 6. Take 1 part of cement M400 or M500, 3 parts of sifted sand, mix and dilute with water until sour cream thick. Stir very vigorously so that no lumps remain in the solution. Poured out cement mixture between two rows of guides, and then stretched with a rule, removing excess solution from the surface of the beacons. If voids have formed, you need to add more solution and apply the rule again.

Cement consumption table

The screed must be completed in one day, then the coating will be as monolithic and durable as possible. After a day, the guides should be removed from the screed, the grooves should be sealed with a fresh solution of the same consistency, and the surface should be covered with polyethylene. Drying will take at least 28 days, during which time the concrete must be regularly moistened, protected from direct rays, drafts, and eliminated from any loads and vibrations.

Dry screed

Required tools and materials:

• level;
• primer;
• roller;
• lighthouses;
• waterproofing film;
• rule;
• damper tape;
• sheets of chipboard or gypsum fiber board;
• expanded clay;
• self-tapping screws

Step 1. The concrete surface is cleaned, cracks are sealed, and two layers of primer are applied.

Step 2. Along the perimeter of the room, the level of the finished floor is marked on the walls.

Step 3. The base is closed plastic film or roofing felt, bringing the edges of the material to the walls.

Step 4. Install guide rails and secure them with plaster mortar. Cement can be used instead of gypsum, but this solution takes longer to set. The level controls the location of the beacons relative to the horizontal, adjusting their height by pressing them into the solution. The distance between the slats is approximately 1.8 m, the distances from the side walls are at least 20 cm.

Step 5. A damper tape is glued along the marking line. The space between the beacons is filled with expanded clay or other loose filler, using the rule it is leveled and slightly compacted.

Step 6. Placed on top of expanded clay sheet material, starting laying from the doorway. Each new row is laid with the obligatory displacement of the seams by half a sheet. It is recommended to install the rough coating in two layers, fastening them together with glue and self-tapping screws. The top sheets must be positioned so that the bottom seams are completely covered. Matching bottom and top seams is not allowed!

Step 7 The recesses from the heads of the screws are covered with wood putty, the horizontalness and evenness of the rough coating are checked, and all roughness is sanded. Finally, the floor is cleaned of dust and primed.

Waterproofing material laid on the floor

Step 3. The beams, pre-treated with an antiseptic primer, are laid out on the floor in parallel rows at a distance of 60 cm. Holes for dowels are drilled in the base and logs are installed. Then, using a level, adjust the horizontal position of the beam, if necessary, placing wedges or removing excess with a plane. It is convenient to attach the logs to special adjustable support bolts with external threads, the use of which significantly speeds up the installation process.

Logs for prefabricated screed

Step 4. A damper tape is secured along the marking line and the laying of the sheet covering begins. Plywood, chipboard, gypsum fiber board or cement-bonded particle boards are suitable for this. The material is attached to the joists with self-tapping screws; The sheets are laid with offset joints in each row. The number of coating layers depends on the thickness of the sheets and the expected loads. If 2 layers are made, the plates are fastened together with self-tapping screws.

The joints between the slabs should be puttied

Step 5. Finally, the rough edges are polished, the joints are rubbed with a putty mixture, and the ground surface is also dust-free.

The described methods do not require special skills or extensive construction experience. Here it is important to follow the technology and adhere to the recommended proportions when preparing working mixtures. A properly executed screed will provide a perfectly flat and durable surface, ready for the finishing coat.

Video - Leveling the floor with Vetonit mixture

Video - Leveling the floor with a leveling mixture