Astrology will tell you! Pepper, planting seedlings according to the lunar calendar: favorable days for sowing. How to plant bell peppers? Planting peppers according to the lunar calendar in a greenhouse and open ground Temperature conditions for growing peppers


Whatever line of work you are involved in, it is important for everyone to achieve maximum success in it. In recent years, we have often come across in various fields, including gardening, the concept of favorable or unfavorable lunar days. It was introduced into our everyday life by astrologers, who claim that an enterprise started on a favorable day will be successful, and vice versa, if you start some process on an unfavorable day, the result will most likely be negative.

Recently, more and more people are turning to astrological predictions, and the point here is not in superstition, but in a scientific approach, because the influence of the phases of the Moon on all life on Earth has long been known. This also explains the reasons for such popularity of lunar sowing calendars among gardeners.

When to plant pepper seedlings in 2019

Thanks to the sowing calendar, you will become aware of the changes in the lunar phases, which determine the size and quality of your harvest. An experienced vegetable grower or summer resident will never plant plants on a full or new moon, since during these periods all the juices collect either at the top or, respectively, in the roots or tubers, and this interferes with the normal development of plants. But if the pepper, the cultivation of seedlings of which will be discussed in our article, is planted during the waxing Moon, its growth activity will be much higher than when planting pepper during the waning Moon. So, when to sow pepper seedlings?

Favorable dates for sowing pepper seedlings in 2019 are:

  • January: 9-15, 20, 24, 28, 29;
  • February: 6, 7, 20-22, 25, 26;
  • March: 5, 6, 10, 11, 20, 21, 24, 25;
  • April: 20, 21, 27-29;
  • May: 4-6, 18, 19, 27, 28.

When to plant pepper seedlings in open ground?
In June, favorable days for this: 15, 21-24; in July: 20-22, 25, 26th.

Peppers ripen 100-150 days after germination, but you can accurately calculate the timing of sowing pepper seedlings only if you know the characteristics of the variety. For example, early-ripening pepper is sown 65 days before planting seedlings in a permanent place, mid-ripening - 70 days, late - 75 days.

Planting pepper seedlings at home

Soil for pepper seedlings

The soil for seedlings of peppers must be loose, nutritious, neutral or slightly acidic (pH 6-6.5) and sterile. You can purchase ready-made soil at garden stores or prepare the necessary soil mixture yourself.

Here are some recipes for suitable soil for pepper seedlings:

  • leaf soil, sand and high peat in equal parts. The acidity level of such soil is adjusted by applying lime fertilizers;
  • turf soil, compost and river sand in a ratio of 2:1:1;
  • two parts of humus are mixed with two parts of peat and one part of well-washed sand, after which the soil is sifted through a sieve;
  • humus, sandy loam meadow soil and turf soil in a 1:2:2 ratio with the addition of a matchbox of potassium sulfate and two matchboxes of superphosphate per 10 liters of the finished soil mixture.

Any soil mixture must be disinfected before adding fertilizers.

Preparing pepper seeds for sowing

Dried seeds enclosed in a capsule containing a growth stimulant and various fertilizers, preparation for sowing is unnecessary and even harmful, because soaking the seeds damages their capsule.

Ordinary seeds are first kept in a solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection: dilute one gram of the drug in 100 ml of water and dip the seeds in the solution for 20 minutes.


After disinfecting the seeds, to increase productivity, they are placed in a solution of a growth stimulant, for example, Epin, prepared in accordance with the instructions, or placed in a solution of mineral fertilizers for 4-5 hours. After this treatment, the seed is washed in clean water and sown wet.

Some gardeners prefer to bubble the seeds by placing them in a gauze bag and lowering them into water through which air is blown with a compressor. The duration of this procedure is 4-5 hours.

But most often they resort to germinating seeds. They are wrapped in wet gauze or cloth, placed in a warm place and made sure that the cloth does not dry out. To do this, it is better to place the wrapped seeds on a saucer and place it under plastic. Do not soak the seeds with water– for germination, in addition to water, they also need oxygen. Germination occurs best at a temperature of 20-23 ºC. However, sprouted seeds have a significant drawback - the tender sprouts easily break off when sowing, so we recommend that you disinfect the seeds in potassium permanganate with their further treatment in a growth stimulator.

Sowing pepper seedlings at home

Since pepper takes a very long time to recover after picking, sowing pepper seedlings is carried out in separate pots or cups with a diameter of 10 cm and a depth of 10-12 cm. But if you do not have this opportunity, take a spacious container for sowing, so that in the future it will be easier for you to replant the seedlings in pots with a large lump of earth. The depth of such a box should be at least 5-6 cm, and the soil level should not reach the edge of the container by 2 cm. Do not forget to rinse the dishes in a solution of potassium permanganate before sowing.


Pepper seeds are laid out with tweezers on the surface of the soil at a distance of 1.5-2 cm from each other, pressed to the substrate, moistened through a sieve or by bottom watering, after which they are sprinkled with a 1 cm thick layer of soil on top, which is then slightly compacted. Cover the crops with plastic film or glass.

How to grow pepper seedlings in tablets

Good pepper seedlings are obtained when grown in peat tablets, since this crop does not tolerate picking very well - after transplantation, the seedlings do not begin to grow for a long time.

Sow the seeds into tablets with a diameter of 3 cm: the required number of tablets are placed in a transparent tray and filled with warm boiled water to swell. As soon as the tablets stop absorbing water, pour out the excess water from the tray, make holes 1-1.5 cm deep in the upper part of the tablets, carefully place the seeds prepared in the described way into the holes and cover them with nutritious soil on top. Cover the tray with a transparent lid, glass or plastic wrap. Germinate seeds at a temperature of 25 ºC.

The first shoots appear within a week, and then the covering is removed from the crops, the tray is transferred to a bright place and kept at a temperature of 25-27 ºC during the day and 11-13 ºC at night. When the seedlings develop 2-4 leaves and the roots begin to grow through the mesh, the seedlings are planted directly in tablets in separate pots filled with one of the soil mixtures described above.

Growing pepper seedlings in cassettes

Now on sale there is a large selection of plastic cassettes in which it is very convenient to grow pepper seedlings - there are cassettes measuring 18x13.5x6 cm for four seedlings with cells 8x6 cm and a volume of 240 ml each. There are cassettes of the same size, but with six, nine and twelve cells. And there are cassettes in a box with a lid that allows light to pass through well, but does not allow moisture to evaporate - they can be used as mini-greenhouses.


A soil mixture or peat tablets suitable for peppers are placed in the cells, the seeds are sown, then the crops are covered with transparent material, the cassette is placed on a plastic tray and kept at a temperature of about 25 ºC. Humidification is carried out using the bottom watering method - water is poured into a tray.

Is it worth it to buy pepper seedlings?

If you do not want or cannot grow seedlings, you will have to purchase them, and it is better to buy planting material in nurseries, specialized stores or garden pavilions - there you have a better chance than on the market to buy exactly what you want and get answers to questions about seedlings. But, unfortunately, it is not always possible to purchase seedlings from well-established sellers and you have to go to the market to buy them.

What do you need to know when buying seedlings? The leaves of the seedlings should be developed, green and evenly colored - without white spots or plaque. Seedlings should be strong and strong, and not elongated and drooping.

Unfortunately, unscrupulous sellers use various tricks to sell their goods, and as a result, you may end up with seedlings overfed with nitrogen fertilizers or, conversely, inhibitors that slow down growth. Such seedlings then bloom poorly, develop poorly and bear fruit poorly, but you are unlikely to be able to recognize this catch in the market. That is why it is better to buy good seeds from a trusted manufacturer and grow seedlings yourself.

Caring for pepper seedlings at home

Conditions for growing pepper seedlings

Maintaining the temperature regime necessary for the development of pepper seedlings in an apartment is not so easy, but you should know that under the ceiling the air temperature is a couple of degrees higher than at the average height, and near the baseboard it is two to three degrees lower. The brightest place in the apartment is the window sill, but it is also the coldest, and seedlings need warmth.

If you can provide artificial lighting for the seedlings, you can grow them where they will be warmer.


At a temperature of 26-28 ºC, pepper seeds germinate on the eighth to twelfth day, at a temperature of 20-26 ºC, shoots can appear after 13-17 days, at 18-20 ºC - after 18-20 days, and at 14-15 ºC you can wait for the emergence of seedlings no earlier than in a month.

As soon as the seedlings appear, the crops are moved as close to the light as possible, the temperature is lowered for a week to 15-17 ºC, and subsequently the seedlings are kept at 22-25 ºC during the day and at 20 ºC at night.

Do not forget to regularly ventilate the room, but keep in mind that seedlings are afraid of drafts and cold air.

Watering pepper seedlings

For the first two or three days, the emerging seedlings are not watered, but if the soil requires moisture, it is carefully sprayed with a sprayer. As soon as the cotyledon leaves open, the seedlings are watered with thirty-degree water. Subsequently, the seedlings are moistened with rain or tap water at room temperature that has been left standing for 24 hours.

The soil of the seedlings should not dry out - pepper does not tolerate drought, but excess moisture in the roots should not be allowed.

Please note that soil in a shallow container loses moisture faster than in a large container. Air humidity in the room is maintained at 60-70%.

Feeding pepper seedlings

To develop the root system of seedlings, they are fed with potassium humate, diluting 5 ml of the drug in two liters of water. Before the formation of flower buds, pepper seedlings develop very slowly, then their growth becomes more intense, and during the flowering period, pepper seedlings are fertilized with the following composition containing microelements: 1 g of manganese sulfate and iron sulfate or citrate are dissolved in 10 liters of water, 0. 2 g of zinc sulfate and copper sulfate and 1.7 g of boric acid.


Pinching pepper seedlings

Homemade pepper seedlings require pinching, that is, removal of the growing point of the seedlings. This is done in order to stimulate the development of the root system in peppers and the growth of stepsons from dormant buds in the internodes in which flowers are formed.

Pinching is done when the bell pepper seedlings begin to develop intensively - the part of the plant located above 4-6 internodes is removed with scissors. When, over time, the seedlings begin to grow stepchildren, the load on the bush is regulated, leaving 4-6 of the most developed stepchildren, and the rest are removed. There is no need to remove stepsons in the lower internodes.

Illumination of pepper seedlings

Since peppers have a longer growing season compared to other vegetable crops, seedlings of this crop begin to be grown earlier than other plants, when daylight hours are still short. But due to the fact that pepper seedlings require lighting for 12-14 hours every day, it is necessary to organize artificial lighting for it, otherwise the seedlings will be thin and elongated, with sparse leaves due to too long internodes.

Natural light from February to March is only about 5,000 lux, but normal seedling development requires a light level of 20,000 lux. The process of photosynthesis requires not just light, but a certain spectrum of rays: red rays stimulate the process of seed germination and flowering of seedlings, violet and blue rays participate in the formation of cells, while yellow and green rays do not affect the development of plants. Namely, yellow light is emitted by ordinary incandescent lamps, and therefore it makes no sense to use them to illuminate seedlings. In addition, such lamps emit infrared rays, which cause the seedlings to stretch and overheat.

It is best to use phyto- or fluorescent lamps for artificial illumination of pepper seedlings, as well as LED lamps, which are created specifically for such purposes. The seedlings are illuminated with 200 W lamps per 1 m² of crop area. The lighting is placed at a distance of 20 cm from the tops of the plants, and when the seedlings grow, the light source is raised.


In the development phase of cotyledon leaves, to stimulate rapid growth of seedlings, lamps should be operated for three days in a row. As soon as the seedlings have true leaves, the daylight hours should be 14-16 hours. In February, artificial lighting should work from morning until 19-20 hours without interruption. In April, the lights are turned on only in the mornings from 6 to 12 o'clock and in the evenings from 16 to 19 o'clock.

Picking pepper seedlings

If the pepper grows in a common container, at the stage of development of the seedlings with two true leaves, the seedlings are picked, although some reference books recommend picking already in the cotyledon phase. The soil with seedlings is well moistened, after which excess water is allowed to drain. Seedlings are planted in separate pots with a capacity of 100-150 ml - the seedlings, together with a lump of earth, are transferred into holes made in the soil, which should accommodate the root system of the seedling with soil. The roots are placed freely in the soil, without bends. The hole is sprinkled with soil and lightly compacted.

When picking, the root collar of the seedlings is buried no more than 5 mm. After transplanting, the seedlings are watered and, if necessary, soil is added to the pots. At first, the seedlings are protected from direct sunlight, and the temperature should not be lower than 15 ºC - at 13 ºC, seedling growth stops.

Pepper seedling diseases and treatment

Sometimes, in the phase of cotyledon leaves, seedlings of sweet peppers begin to turn yellow, the subcotyledonous stem at the soil level darkens, then turns black, a constriction forms in this place, and the seedlings lie down. The cause of seedling death in this case is the fungal disease blackleg. Usually the causative agent of the disease is in the soil that you have not disinfected before sowing, but it happens that infection occurs through seeds or unsterile containers - this is why pre-sowing preparation and disinfection are so important. Blackleg progresses against the background of excessive or insufficient watering, dense sowing, too high or, conversely, too low temperature. Treatment of seedlings with copper-containing preparations and good lighting will help you fight the disease. Affected plants must be removed.


If your seedlings with two pairs of leaves suddenly begin to wither, without changing the color of the leaf blades, and lag behind in growth, most likely the seedlings are sick with the fungal disease fusarium. With fusarium wilt, the leaves begin to turn yellow from bottom to top, and in the section of the stem you can see a browned vascular ring.

The means to combat fusarium are the same as for blackleg, but it is better to prevent the disease from manifesting itself - sterilizing the soil and utensils for sowing seedlings, as well as disinfecting the seeds, will help you with this.

When gray fluff appears on the soil, the inner walls of the box and the base of the seedling stems, oppressing the seedlings, we can say that the crops have been affected by gray rot. For preventive purposes, once every 10 days, seedlings are sprayed with a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate, and treatment is carried out with bacterial fungicides or copper-containing preparations, having previously removed the affected specimens.

Already adult seedlings can be affected by late blight: dark stripes appear on the stems, and light spots appear on the lower leaves, which gradually darken. The source of infection is usually soil. At an early stage of development of late blight, seedlings are sprayed with a solution of 5 ml of iodine in a liter of water; at a later stage, you will have to resort to fungicides, first culling the diseased plants.

White spots and plaque on the leaves and stems, from which the growth of seedlings slows down and the leaves turn yellow, are signs of powdery mildew, which affects not only adult plants, but also seedlings. The disease will have to be combated with bacterial fungicides or an iodine solution, as when seedlings are affected by late blight.


And sometimes there is a hurricane withering of seedlings: in the evening the seedlings were healthy, but in the morning they all lie as if they were scalded with boiling water. This disease is more common in the southern regions and affects sunflower and nightshade crops. This disease cannot be treated, so you will have to replant the peppers.

When to plant pepper seedlings in the ground

With the development of 7-8 leaves in the seedlings and the formation of large buds, if at this moment the seedlings reach a height of 20-25 cm, you can begin to harden them. First, the seedlings are placed at a temperature of 16-18 ºC for 7-10 days, and then the temperature is lowered to 12-14 ºC. To do this, open the vents and windows in the room or take the plants out onto the balcony, loggia or veranda, exposing them to direct sunlight. The duration of such sessions is increased every day, and two or three days before planting in open ground, the seedlings are left in the open air overnight, protected from too cold air. Hardening lasts approximately two weeks.

At the time of planting seedlings in the ground, the seedlings should already have 8-9 leaves and several formed buds, and the average daily temperature in the garden should not fall below 15-17 ºC. Before planting the seedlings, the area should be prepared: dug up with a shovel and leveled. Humus and peat are added to clay soil. The holes are placed at a distance of 50 cm from one another, keeping row spacing 60 cm wide. A tablespoon of complete mineral fertilizer is placed in each hole and mixed well with the soil. The depth of the hole should accommodate the roots of the seedling without bending, and the root collar after embedding should be flush with the surface of the area. The seedlings are transferred into the holes along with a lump of earth, the hole is filled halfway so that the bulk of the roots are covered with soil, then about a third of a bucket of water is poured into the hole, and when it is absorbed, the hole is filled to the top with soil.

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Greetings, friends!

I am starting a new section for gardeners and summer residents. Extremely useful information will be published here on how to care for your garden, grow a rich harvest, improve your garden and summer cottage plots, and much more on this topic.

Pepper opens our section. It is not for nothing that he is given such a role. We all love this vegetable for its unique taste. Because it is indispensable in many dishes: lecho, just pickled peppers for the winter and many other dishes where you can’t do without allspice.

And what a delicious pepper it is when you grow it yourself! It feels like the most fragrant and delicious pepper picked from its bush. That’s why I really want to grow it and reap a rich harvest myself.

In fact, bell pepper is a rather unpretentious plant. You can grow a good harvest of peppers. To do this, you just need to follow some rules for planting, feeding and caring for it.

Planting bell peppers based on the lunar calendar 2018

Already from ancient times, we learned that in order to reap a good harvest, we need to understand the lunar calendar. People have long noticed how much our satellite influences the Earth. The moon causes ebbs and flows and generally affects water.

That is why it has such an effect on seed germination. The general rules of the sowing calendar are quite simple: what does not grow in the ground should be planted on the waxing moon, and what grows directly in the ground should be planted on the waning moon.

Seedlings for bell peppers need to be started at the end of January - February. From these months we begin to prepare seeds. We buy them or take out our own set aside from last year’s vegetables. We sort through and throw out the bad seeds.

We select the day for seedlings from the very first stage of contact of seeds with water. Therefore, it is important to choose a good day for sowing. It is known that the most favorable days for pepper are when our satellite is in the signs of Pisces, Cancer or Scorpio. That is, in the signs of the element of water.

We take ready-made lunar calendars and look at the most favorable days.

With this calculation, one should take into account different climatic zones, whether we plant peppers in a greenhouse or in open ground, and the variety of the vegetable itself.

We plant bell pepper seeds and plant seedlings strictly during the waxing phase of the moon. And the closer to the full moon, the better for germination. At the same time, we remember that it is not recommended to plant on the days of the full moon and new moon, as well as on the waning moon.

We take into account the regions - northern and southern. In the south, seedlings are grown in February and March, and closer to the northern regions in March-April, so that they can then be planted in a greenhouse.

It is better to sow seedlings in January and February in order to check the germination of seeds. If something goes wrong, then you have time to grow the seedlings again from new seeds.

According to the lunar calendar above, the most favorable days are:

  • in January - from January 19 to 29;
  • in February - from the 17th to the 28th;
  • in March - from the 19th to the 29th.

It is on these dates that the moon gradually grows, which has a good effect on the germination and growth of plants.

Video on how to properly plant pepper seeds

Here I suggest you see how to properly grow bell pepper seedlings. The girl explains in great detail how to properly grow sweet pepper seeds using her example.

Planting a plant in open ground

Bell pepper is a heat-loving plant and therefore grows well in southern latitudes. But such areas must be protected from the winds.

Good soil for this plant will be the soil where cabbage, pumpkin and legumes previously grew. If tomatoes, eggplants and potatoes grew in the beds before, then it is better not to plant peppers there.

Tomatoes, potatoes, physalis and eggplants can get sick. And these diseases are transmitted through the ground to bell peppers.

The beds for the plant are prepared in the fall. To do this, the soil is dug up and rotten remains of the previous harvest are removed. Fertilizers are prepared. For approximately 1 square meter, 60 grams of ash, 5 to 10 kg of rotted manure and 40 grams of superphosphates are used.

Fresh manure causes excess nitrogen, which is bad for sweet peppers.

In the spring, the plots are dug up again and 30 grams of nitrogen substances and 40 grams of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are added.

In addition, we take into account that the soil must have good fertile properties and be well drained, which is excellent at retaining moisture.

Seedlings are planted when all the frosts have subsided - usually at the end of May in the northern regions. In the south, landing occurs as early as April. In this case, the earth should warm up to +14 degrees.

Seedlings are planted on a cloudy day or in the evening. At the same time, it should be watered abundantly. This way the sprouts will take root better.

We make the distances between the bushes 20-30 cm. We also water the holes themselves well and plant the plants deeply in peat pots.

At the initial stage, water the pepper generously at the root so that the sprouts take root. At the same time, do not forget to loosen the soil to saturate it with oxygen. After all, our pepper needs it so much. But for the first couple of weeks it is better not to loosen, otherwise the roots may be damaged. And they really need to gain a foothold in a new place!

We make sure not to over-water and at the same time under-water the plants. If the bushes grow slowly or lose flowers with ovaries, this indicates that you are not giving enough water.

Excessively abundant watering causes fungal diseases. Therefore, we monitor our plants and, if something happens, reduce watering or, conversely, water the pepper more generously.

Fertilizing is very necessary for bell peppers. For good fertilizer we use herbs: nettle, dandelion, plantain, mullein or bird droppings, as well as ash.

To do this, grind the grass and pour it into a 100-liter barrel. Place a bucket of cow manure or bird droppings there and add 12 tablespoons of ash. We insist on everything for 10 days. When finished, pour about a liter of this fertilizer at the root of each bush.

Now let's look at planting peppers in a greenhouse.

Growing and caring for peppers in a greenhouse

Crops are grown in greenhouses in the northern regions. Where the summer is usually short, there is little warmth, and you really want your own vegetables from the garden.

At the same time, there are now heated greenhouses where crops can be grown all year round and in winter too. In addition to the heating system, they must be equipped with daylight lighting. But we will talk about this in the following articles.

Greenhouses are made of glass or polycarbonate. These materials have both their pros and cons. The most important thing in greenhouses is their strength. So that they can withstand weight up to 100 kg.

If the greenhouse has already been used to grow other crops, then it is better to treat it with special sprayers. Such solutions can be purchased at any garden store.

In any greenhouse we make beds for peppers. To do this, we dig up the ground and fertilize it with manure. For example, you can use settled chicken manure.

The pepper itself is usually planted according to the following scheme: 20-30 cm between the bushes and 60 cm between the beds themselves. It should be taken into account that we will still be tying up the peppers.

For seedlings, make holes about 20 cm deep; water them with water and plant each bush vertically in a peat pot. Carefully dig in the roots. By the way, there are good varieties of bell peppers especially for greenhouses. I will describe them in the very last part of the article.

Important advice. Mix the soil with sawdust. Sawdust retains moisture well and promotes better oxygen penetration to the roots of the plant.

The first feeding is carried out when the ovary appears on the bushes. Basically, feeding and watering the plants occurs the same way as for peppers planted in open ground.

The most important thing is to remember to ventilate the greenhouse every day. For this purpose, each greenhouse has vents.

It is also important to plant sweet and capsicum peppers in different beds. Otherwise, insects can transfer pollen from hot to sweet peppers or vice versa through pollination. As a result, you may end up with a hot-tasting sweet pepper, but the spicy one will not be spicy at all.

To grow a rich harvest you need:

  • Pruning bushes;
  • Tie up the plant;
  • Hill up and mulch;
  • Attract pollinating insects by spraying peppers with a sugar solution.

Now let's look at the best varieties.

Choosing the best varieties of sweet peppers

Let's consider the best varieties for greenhouses and open ground. These varieties were bred by breeders who took into account the characteristics of growing pepper in different conditions.

Here are the best varieties for greenhouses.

Apricot favorite

  • Fruit weight - 100-120 grams
  • Ripening - 100-120 days

This is an early ripening type of pepper. It has a yellow-orange apricot color when ripe, which is why it received the same name. Wall thickness 7 mm. It has very tasty, juicy fruits.

Bogatyr

  • Fruit weight - 150-180 grams
  • Ripening - 125-135 days
  • Fruit yield - from 10 to 20 kg per 1 m2
  • Application: fresh and pickled.

The mid-season variety has good cold resistance and high yield. Wall thickness is from 5-7 mm. The peppers themselves have a rich, bright red color when ripe.

Star of the East Chocolate F1

  • Fruit weight - 260-350 grams
  • Ripening - 90-105 days
  • Application: fresh and pickled.

A very early ripening variety. When fully ripe it has a brown chocolate color. The fruits are very large, weighing up to 350 grams. The species was bred with good immunity to diseases.

Now let’s look at varieties for planting in open ground.

  • Fruit weight - 140-180 grams
  • Ripening - 100-120 days
  • Fruit yield - from 10 kg per 1 m2
  • Application: fresh and pickled.

Unripe fruits, which can also be eaten, are dark green. When they ripen, they acquire a red-orange color. Wall thickness 5 mm. The variety is very resistant to many diseases, including blossom end rot.

Barguzin

  • Fruit weight - 170-200 grams
  • Ripening - 95-110 days
  • Fruit yield - up to 15 kg per 1 m2
  • Application: fresh.

An early ripening variety with good fertility. This type of pepper is well protected from tobacco mosaic disease. The ripe fruits are elongated, with green veins. Wall thickness up to 6 mm. It takes root well in different soils. Barguzin is good to eat fresh.

Tomboy

  • Fruit weight - 80-160 grams
  • Ripening - 105-110 days
  • Fruit yield - up to 9 kg per 1 m2
  • Application: fresh.

The fruits of this early-ripening variety are elongated, with a rounded tip. Although they are not very large, they are incredibly sweet. These peppers are eaten fresh. Color ranges from greenish to orange-red when fully ripe. The species is famous for the fact that it can be stored for quite a long time.

That's all I have for today. If you know the best varieties of bell pepper, write below in the comments.

And I wish you a rich and good harvest!

Capsicum is a herbaceous annual that is a permanent resident of the greenhouses of many gardeners. In some regions, it can be grown in a greenhouse or even in open ground, but for this, both the plants themselves and the seeds from which they will be obtained must be hardened and accustomed to natural, not “greenhouse” weather conditions.

In order for the seedlings to be strong and healthy, according to the advice of experienced people, they must be planted in accordance with the phases of the night star and its passage through the constellations of the Zodiac. For these purposes, you should refer to the lunar landing calendar. However, before turning to favorable and unfavorable days for sowing, let’s pay attention to the peculiarities of the climatic conditions of the country’s regions.

Favorable days for sowing pepper seeds in 2019

  • in January - 10, 11, 18, 31;
  • in February - 1, 2, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 15, 24;
  • in March - 3, 4, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 17, 26;
  • in April – 2, 3, 4, 9, 13, 16, 25.

Sowing time

Pepper is a heat-loving plant, and its ripening time can be very long - from 150 to 200 days. That is why they begin to grow it from seedlings, and not from the usual sowing of seeds in the ground. Growing any vegetables is not an easy process, because it involves step-by-step and complex work for at least six months, or even longer. In many ways, the quality and growth rate of plants depend on the quality of the seeds: on how they (the seeds) were collected and how they were stored. The chances of good germination and, in the future, good endurance and growth rate can be increased by pre-sowing seed preparation.

Preparing pepper seeds for sowing

proper processing of planting material often becomes the main factor influencing the success of the entire gardening campaign. This is especially true for various capricious crops, for which provide the best conditions and be sure to provide pre-sowing preparation. Otherwise, germination will be very low. Preparing pepper seeds for sowing as seedlings includes a certain series of events, which we will talk about in the article.

Pre-sowing preparation includes several procedures, combined in different ways depending on climatic conditions, seed quality, and the wishes of the gardener. It could be:

  • bubbling;
  • soak;
  • disinfection;
  • calibration;
  • hardening and other procedures.

All these stages of preparation will be discussed today. You should not neglect at least part of these procedures if you want to get a high-quality harvest. Some stages of preparation are especially important for seeds prepared independently, because seed purchased in a store has most likely already gone through some stages and may well not need these procedures.

Selecting and calibrating seeds

The preparation of seed material for growing peppers begins, one might say, in the store - at the stage of purchasing seeds. Try to choose products from companies that have positive reviews. Inspect the bags carefully - they should be well packed, without holes. Also pay attention to each variety's characteristics and growing requirements. If you are getting into peppers for the first time, try to buy those varieties that are least capricious in relation to growing conditions.

Selection of pepper seeds for seedlings

The next step after purchasing seeds is their calibration. To begin, pour the purchased planting material onto a sheet of paper, then remove the too small and excessively large seeds. The next step will be soaking to determine the viability of the seeds. Dilute about 40 g of ordinary salt in a liter of water and, after stirring well, dip all the planting material into the resulting solution. Leave it there for 7-10 minutes and see what happens in the bank. Those seeds that sink to the bottom are “living”, while those that are hollow and incapable of germinating will certainly float to the top - collect them and throw them away. Catch the seed that has settled to the bottom and place it on a sheet of paper to dry.

Sizing Pepper Seeds in Salt Water

Pay attention! Self-collected pepper seeds also need calibration. If you intend to plant these, then carry out the procedure for them too. The technique is applied immediately before sowing.

Etching

Seeds - both from the store and collected with your own hands - can be a source of various plant diseases. If the seeds are infected with pathogenic microorganisms, they themselves will become sick and infect other crops. Fortunately, this happens quite rarely, especially with purchased planting material, but to be sure that the seeds are healthy, so-called dressing or disinfection should be carried out. Dilute a weak solution of potassium permanganate (about 2% in concentration), dip the seeds previously selected as a result of calibration into it for about 15-20 minutes. After this “bathing”, rinse the seed with clean water, place it in a small strainer, and dry it on paper. By the way, for the convenience of the procedure, you can immediately wrap the pepper seeds in a piece of gauze.

Disinfection of seeds with potassium permanganate

You can also treat pepper seeds using preparations sold in stores. This could be Fitosporin-M, which is purchased in liquid form and is diluted very simply: stir 4 drops of the substance in a glass of water. It is this drug that most pathogens of bacterial and fungal diseases are afraid of. At the same time, the product does not pose a great threat to humans or pets. "Fitosporin-M" Attention! Carry out disinfection procedures only before planting - seeds cannot be stored for more than 24 hours after these measures.

Soaking and bubbling

The soaking procedure is usually carried out in order to obtain pepper sprouts as early as possible. So to speak, they are rushing nature, because due to this process the natural dense shell of the seeds softens and it is easier for the sprouts to hatch through it. Place the disinfected seeds on gauze or foam rubber moistened with water, cover with a cloth on top and place the container with them in a warm place, for example, under a radiator. Carefully monitor the humidity - it is important that the “substrate” does not dry out.

Plant the seeds after a few days, when you notice their swelling (about 5-7 days). You can also wait a little longer until the sprouts hatch. Soaking pepper seeds The so-called bubbling or treatment with air bubbles can replace the soaking procedure. It is much more effective in terms of accelerating the germination process (accelerates enzymatic processes), and it is also carried out approximately two weeks before the expected sowing date.

Also, bubbling allows you to clean the seed material from representatives of pathogenic microflora. To carry out the procedure, you will need a regular aquarium compressor. Prepare a tall container, pour warm water into it (about 2/3 of the height of the container), lower the tube from the compressor into it and turn it on. Pour the seeds into the water and leave them to “tumble” in the bubbles for about 1-1.5 days. After the procedure, do not forget to dry the seeds by spreading them on a napkin. Usually, bubbling is combined with another method of seed preparation - treatment with microelements.

How to sow

Soil for seedlings

The soil for growing pepper seedlings must be loose, breathable, with a sufficient amount of nutrients, have a neutral reaction (pH) and at the same time remain moisture-absorbing.

The soil and containers should be free of pests and pathogens.

Sift the ingredients for the substrate through a sieve to obtain a homogeneous mixture.

The simplest and most popular recipe for soil for seedlings can be prepared as follows: take 2 parts of garden soil, 1 part of humus or rotted manure, add a large handful of wood ash to 1 bucket of humus or manure. Then add 1 part peat and 1 part sawdust (or coarse sand).

Take garden soil where nightshade crops have not been grown over the past 3-4 years: tomato, pepper, eggplant, potato.

Pepper is very sensitive to the level of acidity and excess salts in the soil. The optimal pH level is 6-6.5. If the acidity level exceeds this value, add 15-17 g of dolomite flour or lime per 1 kg of soil.

You can add hydrogel to the soil. Soak small granules the size of a match head in water at the rate of 10 g per 1 liter. Once they have swelled, transfer them to the pepper pits. Consumption - approximately a small mayonnaise jar of swollen gel granules per hole. They absorb water and hold it until the earth dries out. Then the plant begins to slowly “drink” the water from the granules and therefore does not dry out.

The hydrogel helps the pepper wait until the next heavy watering. It also successfully copes with the opposite situation - if you overdo it with watering, the granules will retain excess moisture “in reserve.” The optimal frequency of watering seedlings on hydrogel is once every 10-20 days.

If you purchased soil from a store, you can improve it yourself. To do this, add 1.5 kg of sand, 1-2 tbsp. to 5 liters of purchased soil. ash, 1-2 tbsp. dolomite flour and 1 tbsp. complex fertilizers.

Unfavorable days for planting pepper seedlings in 2019

  • in February – 3, 4, 20;
  • in March – 5, 31;
  • in April - 5th.

Landing

Fill the containers almost to the top with nutrient soil. For final disinfection, water the soil with a weak solution (pinkish tint) of potassium permanganate. At a distance of 3 cm in a pot or box, make mini-holes the size of the phalanx of your index finger.

Don't water the soil anymore. Place the sprouted seeds in a hole to a depth of 1.5 cm, sprinkle with dry soil and place in trays with water in a bright and warm place. Place a label with the name of the variety next to each variety.

There is a week left before friendly shoots appear. The air temperature should be between +24 °C - +26 °C. It is in this temperature range with moderate humidity that the first seedlings of pepper will hatch most quickly.

Preparatory work for landing

Any plant in the garden requires nutritious soil; it must contain a sufficient amount of humus. How do you know if homemade soil is suitable for your garden and where to plant? You need to take the soil from the garden in your hand. If it is loose and crumbly, it means the plant will be comfortable. Preparatory work includes the following steps:

  • It is necessary to loosen the soil well, rake, remove grass and debris.
  • Mark the location of the future garden bed.
  • Measure the required distance between rows.
  • Water the trays of seedlings thoroughly the night before planting, this will make it easier for them to separate from the containers.

Caring for pepper seedlings

Lighting

March seedlings must be illuminated. LED lamps, phytolamps, daylight sources - use any lighting that does not harm plants.

Only emerging shoots are illuminated around the clock. Weekly sprouts - three times a day. After another week, leave the backlight on only for 6 hours every day, 4 hours in the morning and 2 hours in the evening.

Watering

The first week the sprouts do not need watering. If the soil dries out, it is enough to sprinkle only the top layer with water. Then watering is carried out every 3 days with warm, settled water.

Picking

Peppers are afraid of picking, so this is not recommended. Let them grow quietly in a cup or box, forming a strong root ball until planting in a greenhouse.

Top dressing

Every second watering is carried out with water with ash dissolved in it. It is advisable to feed the seedlings with liquid mineral fertilizer, bird droppings or mullein. Dilute bird droppings in hot water in a ratio of 1:20, mullein in a ratio of 1:10. Mineral complex fertilizer (1 teaspoon of dry granules or powder) is diluted in 5 liters of water.

Hardening

2 weeks before planting in greenhouse soil, the seedlings are hardened off. For this purpose, first open the window in the room for 2-3 hours during the day, then gradually increase the intervals for receiving air baths until the boxes are taken out into the air.

Timing for planting pepper seedlings in open ground

Pepper seedlings are a fastidious crop, so it is very important not to lose sight of important points. By the time of planting in the garden, the seedlings should have 8–10 leaves. Allowed with formed buds; when the pepper blooms, it cannot be replanted. This is due to the fact that during the flowering period it will be difficult for the plant to take root in a new place.

Pepper seedlings are planted in open ground, usually at the end of May, when there are night frosts.
Pepper seedlings are planted in open ground, usually at the end of May, when there are night frosts.
The flowers may fall off, but the seedlings will not be accepted. There are also time periods when you need to start planting and when it is too late. Depending on the region, these times may vary. For planting in open beds, the average temperature should be 15-18 °C.

You need to wait until the threat of spring frosts has passed, otherwise the plant will develop poorly due to low soil temperatures. The likelihood of developing diseases will increase. Seedlings of bell and bitter peppers are planted at the end of May. In order not to be afraid of night frosts, be sure to cover with film or diaper.

It is better to be late than to hurry; night frosts can destroy the entire future harvest.

Is it possible to plant two hot and sweet peppers per hole?
Gardeners often ask the question, how many peppers to plant in a hole? It is profitable to plant 2-3 pieces; this technique is practiced by many gardeners. Having tried this method once, they usually stop there. The paired method gives good yields. The method of planting in pairs in one hole has many advantages:

  1. of two bushes, it is more likely that one will take root if the second one is damaged by a mole cricket;
  2. paired seedlings hold on tighter, connecting with each other during the growth process, and do not require garter;
  3. thus, plants are better pollinated; people used to say “pepper likes to whisper”;

Planting two or three peppers per hole is a great way to grow a rich harvest of fruit, especially in hot climates.

Planting two or three peppers per hole is a great way to grow a rich harvest of fruit, especially in hot climates.
When growing seedlings in pairs, you need to take into account the fact that growing from one root can produce small fruits. If two different varieties grow side by side and mutually pollinate, hybrids may result. Both options have their advantages. Gardeners make decisions based on personal considerations.

With any technology for growing early pepper, you must first select the optimal time for sowing seeds for seedlings, and then, at the appropriate time, plant the seedlings in the garden bed. About when to plant pepper seedlings in 2019 according to the lunar calendar, regions and varieties, our article will tell you.

Lunar calendar for planting pepper seedlings in 2019

According to the lunar calendar, favorable days for sowing pepper seedlings in 2019:

  • in January - 10, 11, 18, 31;
  • in February - 1, 2, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 15, 24;
  • in March - 3, 4, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 17, 26;
  • in April - 2, 3, 4, 9, 13, 16, 25.

Unfavorable days:

  • in February - 3, 4, 20;
  • in March - 5th, 31st;
  • in April - 5th.

The influence of the region's climate on the planting of pepper seedlings

The process of sowing seeds in the ground to obtain high-quality seedlings is responsible! Here you need to take into account even the most seemingly insignificant details. The main factor that influences the timing of sowing pepper seeds is the climate of the region.

  • Moscow and Moscow region. For seedlings in 2019 in the Moscow region, seeds begin to be sown in mid-March, and late ones are sown no later than mid-February.
  • Volga region. Early peppers are sown in late February and early March, but late varieties should already be in the ground in early February.
  • Siberia and the Urals. These regions are at risk of ground frost. Therefore, early varieties are sown in the last days of March and the first ten days of April. Late varieties are sown in early March.
  • The central and western parts of Ukraine are an excellent time for March 10-20.
  • Donbass. Ready seedlings are planted in open ground already in the third decade of May, so the seeds are sown in early March.

Preparing pepper seeds for sowing

Proper processing of planting material often becomes the main factor influencing the success of the entire gardening campaign. This is especially true for various capricious crops, for which provide the best conditions and be sure to provide pre-sowing preparation. Otherwise, germination will be very low. Preparing pepper seeds for sowing as seedlings includes a certain series of events, which we will talk about in the article.

Pre-sowing preparation includes several procedures, combined in different ways depending on climatic conditions, seed quality, and the wishes of the gardener. It could be:

  • bubbling;
  • soak;
  • disinfection;
  • calibration;
  • hardening and other procedures.

All these stages of preparation will be discussed today. You should not neglect at least part of these procedures if you want to get a high-quality harvest. Some stages of preparation are especially important for seeds prepared independently, because seed purchased in a store has most likely already gone through some stages and may well not need these procedures.

Sowing pepper seeds for seedlings

For planting, soil is prepared from a mixture of garden or turf soil and old humus. It can be replaced with peat or purchased soil mixture. For greater nutritional value, add superphosphate or wood ash to the soil. The soil is thoroughly mixed, it should be homogeneous, light and crumbly.

Containers with holes in the bottom and a tray are suitable for planting. You can plant the seeds in pieces of plastic film rolled into cups, paper or plastic containers, peat cups or tablets. When planting seeds in separate containers, subsequent picking can be eliminated. Individual containers should not be too spacious.

Most often, pepper seeds are sown in convenient plastic containers. They are densely filled with soil so that about 2 cm remains to the sides. With this filling, there will be no washout of the soil during watering. The soil must be compacted and spilled with a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection.

How to sow? After 12 hours, grooves about 1 cm deep are made on the soil surface. The seeds are sown at a distance of 2 cm from each other, the space between the grooves is 4-5 cm. The crops are sprinkled with earth on top, lightly compacted and sprayed with warm, settled water. To speed up germination, the container can be covered with film, glass or a damp cloth.

Picking pepper seedlings

This process helps to grow a large number of seedlings when there is not enough space, because while the seedlings are small, they are quite compact. And only after picking will it be necessary to allocate additional space for the future pepper.

Picking is carried out at 3-4 weeks, when the seedlings have a pair of true leaves. Before replanting, it is worth moistening the soil well, waiting for excess water to drain through the drainage, and then carefully planting the peppers in new (preferably separate) pots, pulling them out by the “ears”, trying not to damage the stem.

The hole in the pot should be made such that the root fits into it without bending, then it is sprinkled with soil and lightly compacted. The root collar can be deepened by about 0.5 cm.

Then the soil is shed again, being careful not to wet the leaves and stem of the seedlings. During the first days, seedlings should be shaded from direct sunlight; the ideal temperature for development is +15 and above.

Planting pepper seedlings in the ground

  • Pepper seedlings are planted in open ground at the age of 8-10 weeks.
  • In mid-May in a greenhouse or under film, in mid-April in a heated greenhouse.
  • Before planting seedlings in open ground, the seedlings need to be hardened off in the fresh air.

Important! Remember that pepper needs regular watering and does not tolerate drying out of the soil. To speed up the development of plants in open ground, peppers need to be fed. Do this as needed 2-4 times per season.

The first fertilizing is carried out two weeks after planting the plants in open ground (15 g of ammonium nitrate, 30 g of superphosphate and 25 g of potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water). You can also use complex fertilizer or bird droppings diluted in water (1:20).

The second feeding is carried out when ovaries form on the pepper. At the same time, the dosage is reduced (10 g of ammonium nitrate, 25 g of superphosphate and 25 g of potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water). Subsequent feeding is carried out only if necessary, if the plants’ development has slowed down.

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