Do I need to free the heads of garlic from the ground? Why do you need to rake away the soil from garlic heads before harvesting?

Frustrated gardeners often do not understand the reason why garlic rots in their properly planted beds and in clean storage areas. How to early stage to recognize and correctly eradicate the reasons that provoke the heads to rot in the beds and in storage - that is the question.

Causes and symptoms

The first warning sign is early yellowing of the tops. Unfortunately, few people connect this with the fact that the garlic in the ground has begun to rot and the use of agrotechnical preparations to prevent further development of the process in the garden occurs late.

Remember! Prematurely yellowing tops are not always a sign of potassium or nitrogen deficiency. This may be a plant’s “signal” about a disease or pest infestation.

To understand why garlic rots in the garden or during storage, it is important to carefully study the causes of the problem and the external signs of disease. Then it will be much easier to prevent or identify them in the garden.

Other reasons why garlic may rot in the ground:

• Diseased or spoiled seed material.
• Poorly selected site for a garden bed.
• Proximity of groundwater.
• High soil acidity.
• Incorrect planting in the garden bed and/or violation of its timing.
• Formation of a crust on the surface of the earth.
• Inappropriate plants in neighboring beds.

Knowing the causes of the disease and its symptoms, you can understand how to save garlic from rot.

The main provocateurs of rot are a decrease in temperature values ​​and dampness. A number of diseases are noticed during storage, but their causes are always “laid in” during growth in the garden.

Prevention

If you carry out all the preventive and therapeutic “measures” while growing a crop in the garden, there will be no unnecessary cause for concern in the storage areas. What to do if garlic rots in the ground on ridges or anywhere planted in the garden? Much depends on the reason for starting the process and the capabilities of the amateur vegetable grower.

Compliance with planting and harvesting deadlines

Winter cloves in the southern regions are planted in the garden by November, in the central part of the country - from late September to mid-October, in Siberia, due to the special climate, the dates can be moved closer to mid-September. Garlic in the garden should not rot, but autumn growth of the plant is also not desirable.

“Summer” varieties are planted in the second half of April and early May. Changing the vegetative season of a vegetable in 4.5-5 months upward or downward is equally undesirable. If the harvest is late, the garlic heads scatter over the garden due to overripeness and the garlic actively rots during storage.

Shooting varieties are removed when the shell of the first balloons of the air bulbs begins to burst, although this sign is not the only criterion. Varieties without arrows are collected from the garden during the period of complete lodging of the tops with yellowness lower leaves landing The plant may begin to rot due to a delay in harvesting.

Selection of planting material

To prevent garlic affected by rot from appearing in the garden beds, it is necessary to select clean “seeds”.

• The closest searches for them can be carried out no closer than one and a half kilometers from the diseased bushes, otherwise the bulbs will rot.
• It is better to choose varietal zoned garlic for the garden, for which there is no climatic reason for death in a certain area.
• Definitely without damage, with rudiments of roots.
• To prevent garlic from rotting immediately, plant it in scales.

A great option is to grow it yourself in the garden. planting material from bulbs that are not infected. Such a variety update is required once every 4-5 years due to the gradual accumulation of “ bad heredity"in planting material.

Correct choice of planting site taking into account crop rotation

So that after the bulbs appear, you don’t have to wonder why the garlic in the garden began to rot, plant it “with all the comforts.” To do this you will need:

• Good illumination of the area.
• Clean fertile soil in the garden with neutral acidity.
• Deep groundwater.
• Absence of onions or potatoes in the predecessors.

The best crops from the previous year of planting in the garden are legumes or pumpkins.

Improving soil fertility

In fertile soil, garlic rots less often, so the garden bed is fertilized before planting. High performance soil acidity is the reason for the scattering of “fluff” or dolomite flour. Use the following anti-rot products for fall application:

• Superphosphate.
• Compost.
• Urea.

Well-loosened soil prevents the heads in the garden from rotting and increases productivity.

Disinfection of seeds and soil

A healthy harvest in the garden and the absence of garlic rot during storage can be achieved by disinfecting the cloves before planting. Common mixtures:

Treatment saves garlic from the spread of rot, which could be caused by infected planting material.

The bed is disinfected after the autumn “filling” with fertilizers.

Solution composition: per bucket of water 40 g of copper sulfate.

Consumption: about 4 liters per square meter.

Then the bed is covered with film for a day or a little more. This is done to prevent fungal diseases, which often cause garlic to rot.

Fertilizing

Garlic beds love fertilizing. For planting you can use:

• Garden compost or well-rotted manure - a bucket per square meter. Do not take fresh manure, as it will cause plant rot.
• A mixture of superphosphate and nitrophoska – 40 g each.
• Wood ash: 3 cups per meter of area. It will reduce acidity and prevent rotting of planted garlic from infection.

When the bulbs are ripening, you can use complex mineral fertilizers, urea, and a daily infusion of weeds with ash. The leaf cover is irrigated with potassium sulfate to prevent rot. Stores sell specialized formulations for garlic - during planting and during the growing period.

To prevent garlic heads from becoming affected by rot, feed the plants in dry, preferably calm, weather.

Treatment against pests and diseases

Existing treatment products are “targeted” to a specific type of pest, as can be read on the packaging. In fact, only infection caused by stem nematodes cannot be treated. The remaining worms and insects, through whose fault the garlic in the garden begins to rot, can be destroyed. From folk remedies, spraying solutions help a lot:

• 200 g of salt per bucket of water.
• For a three-liter jar hot water 250 g of pure tobacco, 2 teaspoons of any finely ground pepper. Store in a warm place for 3 days, then filter, add to a bucket, pour in 2 tablespoons of soap.

Planting carrots will prevent the heads and cloves from rotting due to the introduction of onion flies if they are planted between the garlic rows.

Preventing the spread of nematodes

• Before planting, keep the cloves in hot (45 degrees) water for 2 hours or dip them in a 3% solution of table salt at a temperature slightly below room temperature for half an hour.
• Deoxidize the contaminated soil with lime or dolomite flour.

Only planting marigolds or calendula can truly save garlic from rot caused by nematodes. The root juice of these flowers kills the pest.

Disease prevention:

• Pickling the cloves in a container with a 50% Fundazol solution for 3 minutes. It is possible to soak in a solution of “Fitosporin” (5 liter bottle) – 5 minutes.
• To prevent garlic from rotting in the beds, they are disinfected with Hom or copper sulfate before planting.
• Fitosporin M will help to avoid the causes of fungal infections.

Working ahead of crop diseases is the main task of a gardener.

Signs and causes of garlic rotting during storage

Having stored apparently healthy heads for storage after 3 months, you can wonder in horror why garlic rots during storage? The pulp acquires brown, the affected areas become covered with mold, often green.

Or the cloves fade during storage and, for some unknown reason, become filled with black “dust.” First, a few lobes begin to rot, then the infection spreads to the entire head and neighboring specimens. The reason for this is fungi.

Bacterial infections cause garlic to rot only during storage. Signs of damage:

• Glassiness of the lobules.
• Donets rot.
• Individual bacterial rots under the husk.

During storage, each external manifestation of disease has its own reasons. Most problems are caused by heat and dampness or damage to the heads.

There is no reason why healthy, ripe, well-dried garlic with whole heads, if properly stored, will rot in the cellar or kitchen.

How to save

Although the main work to preserve vegetable health is carried out in the garden, something can also be done in winter areas to eliminate the damage. The main thing is not to delay taking measures to preserve the remaining heads of the valuable crop. Vegetable lovers need to know what to do if garlic begins to rot during storage. First of all, cloves that are damaged due to rotting are thrown away, healthy ones are cleaned. Further storage options are available.

• Pour in vegetable oil.
• Place in the freezer, cut up, for frozen storage.
• Sprinkle with salt for fresh storage.
• Dry in the oven until crisp or in a dehydrator.
• Turn garlic that rots during storage into garlic salt: grind it in a blender with sea ​​salt in a ratio of 1:4. Stir separately first, then together for 1-2 minutes.
• Pour dry wine or light wine vinegar to store in the cold.

Storage in filling and freezing can be no more than 5 months and only in the refrigerator. The dry product will not spoil until spring.

The best storage conditions for garlic, under which the appearance of rot is almost impossible:

• Cold storage. Dry room, temperature 3-5 degrees Celsius. The winter heads left over from planting will not rot until the New Year. Storage of spring varieties is possible until spring.
• Warm storage. Humidity up to 80% at temperatures up to 20 degrees. “Spring” varieties will not rot until winter, and winter varieties will last for 4 months.

Rotting garlic in the garden or during storage brings a lot of frustration to the owners, and yet there is no need to despair. Compliance with the rules of agricultural technology of the crop and its storage conditions always gives positive results. Garlic just loves when it is given enough attention and then it certainly gives you healthy, juicy fruits, the storage of which does not require special care.

Garlic is divided into winter and spring. Each has pros and cons. Winter yields big harvest, but poorly stored. Spring yields a smaller harvest, but lasts until next year.

Plant species

How to distinguish spring from winter by appearance? A hard rod sticks out from the middle of the winter crop bulb - the remnant of the arrow. The spring one does not have such a rod, so it does not shoot. The teeth of the winter onion are large and form one layer. The denticles of the spring onion are small and can be arranged in two or more layers. And the main difference is different terms landings. Spring crops are planted in spring, and winter crops in autumn. And now about the main thing – the landing rules.

Video about growing garlic

The technology for growing garlic is constantly being improved. This is how several planting methods appeared, which we will now tell you about.

Method No. 1 - traditional

A place is allocated for the crop from under early harvested plants: cucumbers, early cabbage, radishes, legumes. The site should not be located in a low-lying area and should not be flooded melt water in the spring, the teeth will rot and die. The soil is fertilized: humus or rotted manure is added, dug up with a shovel and furrows are made every 25 cm. Unpeeled cloves are planted every 10-12 cm. The plantings are covered, watered and mulched.

Landing photo winter garlic

Method number 2 - double landing

Double planting of garlic is relevant for small areas. The main secret is that garlic is planted in 2 levels (tiers). This is done in the fall or at the end of August. The first row is located below, the second - above. We dig a groove deeper and lay out the first level of cloves at a depth of 11-12 cm. Some will say deep. Don't worry. They will feel great there.

We fill it with earth and lay out the second row at a depth of 6-7 cm. Make a distance of 10-15 cm between the cloves, and 25 cm between the grooves. Sprinkle with earth. It turns out one clove on top of the other. No one bothers anyone, there is enough for everyone.

Method No. 3 - sowing

You can also not stick the cloves into the ground, but sow them, that is, lay them out on a side or simply throw them in rows. The only thing that might confuse you is the garlic head lying on its side and the crooked neck. But this does not affect the quality of the product, taste and size of the onion.

The photo shows garlic sowing

The teeth were planted and mulched. In the spring they immediately begin to grow. The tooth that turned out to be lower is more favorable conditions. He's deeper and he's warmer there. It has developed a better root system. And the one that is higher warms up faster in the spring.

When to harvest garlic? The bulbs are removed when the arrow bursts. Why then break out the arrows? If you leave them, the garlic heads will grow less. The arrow takes up the food, as bulbs form on it, but it’s worth leaving a few. Garlic arrows will show you when it is ready to harvest. The arrows are broken off not when they have just emerged from the stem, but when they have made a circle.

When to plant garlic?

Every autumn this question arises among all gardeners. And here, as they say, how many people, so many opinions. Some people prefer to plant the bulb 2-3 weeks before the soil freezes. The tooth has time to take root and readily begins to grow in the spring. But early August and September planting is considered incorrect, since the tips of the plant’s feathers begin to turn yellow early. We will not convince you of right or wrong specific method. We will tell you about the interesting experience we have done.

We planted garlic on three dates: August 20, September 20 and October 20. Most best harvest the August landing gave. He overwintered best. If you think about it, it immediately becomes clear why this is so. We planted it early, it managed to take root well, gained strength and immediately began to grow in the spring. And the worst harvest was from the October planting. It didn’t really take root, didn’t overwinter well and grew little.

If the plant managed to sprout from the August and September planting, then nothing bad happened. That's how it should be. To check whether August planting is effective, plant some of the cloves early, and some when it seems more appropriate to you, and then compare the results.

You may ask why sprouted garlic does not freeze? When it produced roots, the composition of the cell sap changed and it contained more sugar. Try freezing the syrup. The syrup won't freeze, but the water will. That is, after germination it goes into another state, simply “falls asleep” for the winter.

Feeding

Feeding garlic in the summer closer to harvest is already useless. If you are going to feed him, then you need to do this in May - June. Then, from the feather, it gains the weight of the bulb itself. When he wakes up, he needs it. An infusion of vermicompost or horse manure is used as a top dressing. It is advisable to mulch the plantings with humus or straw cut into pieces.

The row spacing is sprinkled with ash to prevent pests. Mulching helps retain soil moisture and protects the bulbs from overheating. You don't have to mulch the garlic. Cultivation and care then consist of fertilizing, regular loosening, weed removal and watering.

Another rule: choose the largest cloves for planting. Let's plant small - small bulbs and get it. If the tops turn yellow, this indicates damage to the root system. Causes: root gnawing by pests or the action of soil rot.

If the plantings are mulched, there is no need to water them. Under normal weather conditions, rain moisture is sufficient. After all, the clove has already grown roots, will draw moisture from the soil itself, and form a good bulb.

Also prefers fertile land. If necessary, humus or rotted manure is added to the soil in an amount of 3-5 kg/m2. The teeth are planted in rows at a distance of 6-7 cm from each other. A distance of 25-28 cm is maintained between the rows. The approximate depth of planting garlic cloves is 3 cm. We will describe two methods.

Method No. 1 - traditional

Spring crops are planted early spring April 15-25. Before planting, the heads are divided into cloves and sorted by size. It is advisable to plant slices of each size in separate grooves. Care consists of regularly loosening the rows, watering and removing weeds. If the plantings are mulched, as mentioned above, there is no need for watering.

Method No. 2 – with sprouted teeth

Garlic heads are stored all winter at a temperature of 20 0 C. At the end of March, the bulbs are disassembled into slices and soaked for 3 hours in water room temperature, taken to the cellar, where they are laid out in one layer and covered with rags or film. When the roots grow 2-5 cm long, the cloves are planted in moist soil.

Photo of planting garlic

Spring plants are fed in the same way as winter plants, with an infusion of mullein, vermicompost or horse manure. Of the inorganic fertilizers, urea is used at the rate of 1 matchbox per bucket of water when seedlings appear, then after 10 days and a third time at the end of June. To prevent pests, ash is scattered between the rows.

Spring bulbs are harvested when the feathers of the lower tier of the plant dry out massively in the third ten days of August - the first ten days of September. The bulbs selected from the soil are laid out in one row to dry under a canopy. The tops must be completely dry. Do not rush to cut off the green shoots of garlic, as the bulb receives nutrition from them and continues to grow during drying. Dry tops are cut off, leaving 5 cm.

Garlic tends to degenerate, just like potatoes. When propagating by cloves, diseases gradually accumulate in the crop and the yield decreases. To prevent this from happening, from time to time the garlic is renewed from bulbs (balloons). In the first year, the balloons produce one-toothed ones. In the second year, full-fledged bulbs grow from them. The garlic turns out healthy and there is no need to run around looking for planting material, especially since it is quite expensive.

Garlic in the photo

Bulbs are taken from plants from which the shoot was left. When the inflorescence bursts and the bulbs turn the color characteristic of this variety, the inflorescences are broken off and placed in a dry place to ripen. For planting, take bulbs with a diameter of 4-5 mm.

Method No. 1 - traditional

Bulbs are sown in the first days of October. Humus of 3-4 kg per 1 m2 is added to the soil and dug up. Make rows up to 4 cm deep at a distance of 10 cm from each other. The rows are watered, air balloons are laid out every 3 cm and sprinkled with earth. In spring and summer, caring for crops is the same as for regular garlic. By the beginning of August, one-toothed bulbs grow from the bulbs, which are dug up when the tops turn yellow. They are dried and used for autumn planting for a full bulb.

Method No. 2 - direct

In the first year, one-toothed ones are grown from air plants using the traditional method. In August, the one-toothed ones are not dug up, but are left in the soil for the winter. Next spring, the plants are carefully thinned out, thus increasing the distance between the remaining bulbs. By the end of May, the distance between the rows should be 25 cm, and between single-toothed plants in a row - 10-12 cm.

Video about growing garlic and caring for it

Method No. 3 - growing through winter

In the first half of June, bulblets are sown. Before this, they are stored unthreshed in the refrigerator. By the second ten days of September, the plants already have 4-5 leaves, a good root system and a thick stem as thick as a pencil. In October, winter plants harden and winter well. The next year, full-fledged bulbs develop from them.

We shared with you all the secrets that we used ourselves. Now you know how to grow garlic. It's up to you. Choose the method you like, or better yet several, so you can compare the results later and grow a huge harvest, to your delight and to the envy of your neighbors.

I don’t plant garlic or make beds for garlic. I’ll dig up as much garlic as I need. I need a bucket of garlic, I’ll dig up that much, or rather, I don’t dig it up, but simply pull out the arrow of the garlic. If whole heads remain, a family grows from them. The garlic heads are large, even though they were all sitting together. Many gardeners already use my method, but what happens is: I dug up a bucket of garlic, then buried half of it, and I still have to plant it later. We once planted garlic under the snow; it snowed early. And how much garlic took up a good area! I really didn’t like this work, and the garlic became small and I had to buy another garlic. Now my largest garlic grows 140 grams.

When the garlic begins to release an arrow, and bulbs grow at the end of the arrow, you leave the largest arrows, a few of them, and cut off the rest when the arrow begins to curl on the second turn. If you do not cut off the head on the arrow, the head of garlic will be smaller. When the bulbs that you specifically left grow, and the film on the head bursts and the bulbs are clearly visible, you dig them up along with the garlic.

The bulbs should separate well. We don’t take all the bulbs, but only the largest ones. At the end of August I scatter the bulbs throughout the garden. Very good garlic grows along the raspberries, near the path. You can’t go into raspberries, otherwise you’ll be pulling the garlic out of the ground and you might spoil the raspberry roots. You feed the raspberries, and the garlic also gets nutrition. The sun does not fry the garlic too much, and it grows longer, the head becomes larger. Very good neighborhood. Garlic grows well along the fence if the soil there is good.

You cannot plant garlic and onions in strawberries; you lose 30% of the berry harvest. The first year you scattered the bulbs. The next year your annual grows, it is one large head without teeth. There is no need to dig it up, it does not give an arrow. Some gardeners dig, it seems to me that this is wasted work. I don't dig up annuals. I dug up some of the annuals, there was no difference. So why do the extra work?
And my motto is “WORK LESS, EARN MORE,” of course, if you do everything right. A week later I sprinkle raspberries and the whole garden horse manure or a puff pastry, a thin layer, mulch. You can use humus. If you have fresh mullein, then you need to scatter it on the frozen ground. In the spring, when the snow melts, your garden will receive its first fertilizing. Bulbs, like garlic, have a very strong root system. During the fall, the root system pulls the bulb into the ground. If the winter is very cold, the bulbs and garlic will go deep into the ground. You've probably noticed: after a cold winter, when it was time to dig, the garlic was deep in the ground, although you didn't plant it deep.
You can watch the bulbs. Place them somewhere and you will see how the roots begin to pull the bulbs into the ground. The soil should be loose, not like stone.

If you follow my recommendations, the soil in your garden will be loose. I remind you once again that in the fall I sprinkle them so that in the spring they will receive the first feeding when the snow begins to melt. To get a full harvest without planting garlic, you will need three years. In the meantime, you will need to plant garlic and scatter large bulbs. The first year you scattered the bulbs. In the second year, annuals will grow; you don’t dig them up. The third year you dig real garlic. Through the bulbs you will always renew the garlic, and you will have it large and healthy. Along the raspberries you can plant tines and bulbs, every 30 - 40cm. When your garlic starts to grow everywhere like a weed, then you don’t have to plant garlic, but just scatter large bulbs every year. Please note: garlic is not large everywhere. If he is small in one place, then the soil there is bad or he doesn’t like this place. Then there is no need to scatter the bulbs in this place. If you dig up the garlic in time, it will lie well until the next harvest. You should dig the garlic when the top thin layer on the head of garlic is covered, but has NOT burst. If the top layer on the garlic has burst, then the garlic is not suitable for storage. It should be used immediately or for planting if the slices are large. The arrow must be cut off immediately, leaving a stump of 2-3 cm. If you do not trim immediately, the arrow will begin to draw juice from the garlic, and the head of garlic will become smaller in size. If you plant garlic in beds, then the distance between the garlic should be at least 15cm. and planting depth 2-3cm; mulch with humus to prevent the soil from drying out. There is no need to water after planting. Be sure to feed 2-3 times during the season. When the garlic sprouts in the spring, sprinkle the ground with ash.

If you come across rotten garlic, then spill the soil with “Fitosporin” before planting, as well as if you have been planting in one place for several years. In the spring, water it too. Watering should be done if it is hot and the soil is dry; it is better if your garlic is mulched.
Garlic should be stored at home in a box or stocking in a cool place. Before storing, you need to dry it at home for two weeks. I put newspapers on the floor and let it dry for two weeks. Then I put it in a stocking and hang it behind the pipe in the toilet, separate from the bathtub. Stores well until the next harvest.

You can dry garlic. Thinly slice the garlic and place on paper. Dries in 3-4 days. When dry, grind in a coffee grinder. I specifically keep an old coffee grinder for grinding garlic and pepper. Very convenient. When you need garlic, you can dilute it with boiled water or broth. Very tasty with dumplings. Take half a teaspoon of dry garlic, grind black pepper there and dilute with dumpling broth, 1-2 tablespoons of broth. Dry garlic is sold in the store. Our dry garlic tastes better.
I'll add more. This year my garlic has already grown to 224 grams, a record weight. A lot of garlic, 200-210 grams each.

Garlic varieties that shoot out shoots are always winter varieties. But those that have no trace of arrows are not all spring. Among them there are also winter crops. Considering that we plant in our gardens not varietal material, but re-sorted material (planting material is not sold in seed stores, we grow what we bought at the market), it is quite possible to make a mistake and plant winter garlic in the spring, along with spring garlic.

No. 2. Plant immediately

You cannot plant the cloves immediately after digging the bed. Yes, these are not small seeds, and they cannot remain in a “non-germinating” state. The earth will still subside, and the teeth will go deeper into the soil. That is, they will all be at different depths. As a result, some plants in the spring will begin to outstrip the others and suppress them. The yield per unit area will immediately drop sharply. To ensure even seedlings, prepare the bed in advance, at least a week in advance, so that the soil settles a little due to rain.

Planting garlic is very simple - on average at a depth of 5-8 cm, and at the same distance from each other in the row. The larger the teeth, the greater the distance and the deeper the fit. Row spacing is made from 20 to 40 cm. Bulbs are also planted in approximately the same way, only smaller and denser - leave 2-3 cm in depth and between plants in a row. The row spacing should be at least 20-21.5 cm.

No. 3. Too early

When dealing with garlic, the principle is better late than never. This is a very plastic culture. If you plant it in August, the plantings will not die. Of course, the growing feathers will disappear during the warm period, and the plant will be weaker in the spring. The harvest will be small, but the garlic will survive. How should you plant it?

Calculating the right moment is very difficult. You need to monitor the weather and plant the cloves in the soil 2-3 weeks before frost. In such a way that roots will develop and the feather will not come out. If you miscalculate - the garlic will sprout unproductive, having spent a significant part of the stored nutrients, the crop shortage will be significant.

No. 4. Or it's too late

If frost occurs immediately after planting, this is not as bad as planting early. The roots may well grow during prolonged autumn or spring thaws. What if they don't exist? Then there will be a crop shortage, but not as serious as if there is too much early boarding. Plants will begin to develop later, not having time to fully use winter moisture reserves.

No. 5. Plant the bulbs at the same time as the cloves

When planting garlic there is general rule- airy bulbs are planted a little earlier than cloves. The teeth can begin to take root almost immediately, but the bulbs take longer to germinate, and they will need 3-4 weeks to awaken and develop roots.

No. 6. Plant everything

The teeth must be sorted. For planting, you need to choose those that are larger, but of the same size. Otherwise, the result will be the same as with planting immediately after digging. It is better not to use the largest teeth. You can allocate a separate bed-hole for them, where they will not harass their neighbors.

No. 7. Nitrates are evil

Good garlic difficult to grow without mineral fertilizers. The thing is that it begins to grow immediately after the soil thaws. And even in the most fertile, manured areas, nitrogen is not available to the plant at this time. Gardeners are surprised to see yellowing and drying leaves on garlic that otherwise looks quite healthy. Replenishes temporary nitrogen deficiency ammonium nitrate(urea will not work - it does not start working right away). It is scattered over the “shard” (frozen top layer of soil), or the beds are watered aqueous solution from a watering can (matchbox for 10 liters of water).

No. 8. Possible without scales

Garlic, like fish, cannot live without scales. If the cloves have damaged scales, they may begin to rot. Some gardeners, on the contrary, believe that scales prevent teeth from growing. This is a big mistake. It is not the scales that prevent the teeth from growing, but the remains of the old bottom from below. They need to be carefully cleaned, but the scales should not be damaged in any way.

No. 9. Don't break the arrows

The size of the garlic cloves is directly proportional to the resulting bulbs and inversely proportional to the number of airy bulbs formed. Therefore, arrows are always removed - immediately when they appear. If the arrows manage to grow more than 10-11 cm, the garlic head will no longer be large.

No. 10. Wait for degeneration

You can’t wait for the garlic to chop. Every year, plant a couple of the largest cloves to produce airy bulbs, through which you can improve the health of the planting material.

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Garlic ripens at the end of July - beginning of August. And this is extreme crucial moment. Garlic is an unpretentious, even indestructible crop, but you can easily lose the entire harvest if you miss the harvesting lines.

Sometimes it happens like this: the garlic was always successful, there was no trouble with it, and suddenly it began to rot. And whatever you do: you change the planting location, completely renew the planting material, apply fertilizers, stop applying fertilizers - still nothing works. The solution is this: carefully monitor the garlic, and it will tell you when to plant it and when to harvest it.

Arrows and harvest

For several years now, FORUMHOUSE has been discussing the topic: does cutting off the shoots affect the quality of the garlic harvest or not? It happens that by leaving the arrows on half of the bed for an experiment, gardeners get the same yield from it. And there is a temptation not to remove the arrows, especially when planting material is tight.

This is wrong, the arrows must be cut off, only left on 3-4 plants for bulbs and “beacons”. By the way, in one inflorescence there are 100-200 bulbs - enough for the eyes.

Untorn arrows really affect the yield. The fact is that first garlic grows arrows (this takes 3-4 weeks) and only then throws all its energy into growing cloves. It turns out that those gardeners who leave garlic to stand longer give the garlic with arrows the opportunity to catch up with the garlic without arrows. But this is not always possible, and besides, it is impossible to keep garlic in the garden for too long. Therefore, the arrows must be removed.

If the arrows are not used for preparations, preparation of garlic salt and the favorite dish of many summer residents, “fried arrows,” then they must be cut off or plucked out immediately as they appear. Otherwise, shooters are allowed to grow to 20 centimeters. Please note: winter garlic shoots unevenly, at different times, so you need to inspect the beds more often and pick off flower stalks.

After cutting off the arrows, you can add them to the garden bed. potash fertilizer, garlic respects him very much. It can be a complex - with a predominance of potassium or MPA, or ash. The advantage of ash is that it does not acidify the soil.

Arrow tongue, spine signals

Several arrows left on the garlic bed serve as beacons. You need to watch them all the time: if they twist into a ring, the garlic continues to grow, if they straighten up, triple your vigilance, the harvest will soon be harvested. As soon as the peel on the box bursts, harvest. Anyway, do it in the next two days.

Don't be confused if the stems are still green! You don't need stems, but bulbs. And from the very moment when the skin on the inflorescence bursts, they do not grow and begin to crack. Moisture and rot spores, which are everywhere, even on space station, and it begins to rot.

In general, it is better not to keep garlic in the ground than to overexpose it, then it will be stored better. The harvested garlic is sent to the shade to ripen, and then the stems are cut and the roots are removed from the head.

Very important point, which few people know about: after harvesting the garlic, several heads are placed on the garden bed, left there and the roots are checked from time to time. It doesn’t matter whether they are wet or dry, clean or with clods of earth - after about two to three months, depending on the weather this year, you will see that the roots have pressed firmly to the ground and have begun to grow into it. This is a sign: it’s time to plant garlic before winter. So you definitely can't go wrong.

Even number of teeth

Winter garlic is planted using the so-called “miner’s” method: deep, three times the height of the bulb. This type of garlic does not sprout in the fall; it safely survives the spring frosts in the ground and only then begins to grow. The soil should be fertile and non-acidic, the place should be as sunny as possible, the planting material should be good and, preferably, from your region.

Another trick that few people know: for planting, select heads with a small number of cloves (ideally 4, no more). Then the heads will grow large.

Smolyanka

A neighbor taught me to choose garlic with an even number of cloves for planting. The smaller the number of teeth, the larger and stronger they are, and that’s what I choose. I also noticed that from one clove a medium-sized garlic is obtained, and from its cloves a large one grows.

The garlic bed should be located north-south in length - then the bulbs will be denser and larger. At the beginning of July, it will be necessary to rake the soil from each plant, freeing the upper third of the head. This will help produce larger garlic bulbs and speed up their ripening. This is a rather tedious task, but the result will exceed your expectations. And it will be convenient to pull out the garlic.

Darling

I shovel the soil not so that the garlic will grow larger, but so that the shirt gets stronger. And most importantly, in my garden there are such small worms that, if I don’t open the garlic in time, they will definitely make holes in it.

Nodule on leaves

Soon after the shoots break, about 20 days before ripening, they stop watering the garlic and remove the mulch. If the garlic stalks grow tall and fat, this is not a reason to worry.

The larger the leaf apparatus, the more nutrients the plant will store, and the larger the head will grow. And to organize the flow of nutrients into the bulbs, tie the leaves in a knot.

Quail

About tying the leaves into a knot: then there is an outflow of nutrients from the leaves to the heads. If you decide to tie garlic, you need to tie it a month before harvesting.

When leaves turn yellow, many people use fertilizers containing copper oxychloride. But in the soil it does not disintegrate, does not dissolve and is prone to accumulation. It is often enough to fertilize the garden bed with chicken droppings, and within a week the plants will be transformed.

Massive yellowing of leaves earlier than normal ripening times can be caused not only by a lack or excess of microelements, moisture, etc., but also by more serious reasons: white rot or onion fly. Both of these scourges develop most often in dry and hot summers.

How to cook arrows and heads

The arrows can be fried - you will get a very tasty addition to a side dish (potatoes), and they themselves are quite good. You can grind it through a meat grinder, freeze it and add it to soups or stews in winter. Can be mixed with butter. Can be marinated. You can freeze the whole thing: the upper flower-bearing part will go into cabbage soup, and the ends will go into pilaf and sauces.

Try putting young heads of garlic in the pilaf - it will turn out perfect. The flaps, which have already begun to form, will become soft in the pilaf, and the heads will become sweet, without a garlicky smell.

Young garlic is marinated with beets and red currants or according to a simple scheme: the heads are dipped in boiling water for 2 minutes, then immediately in ice water (preferably with ice), then poured with cold marinade. Marinade: water, grape or apple cider vinegar, salt, sugar, spices - everything to taste. After 3-4 days, put it in the refrigerator and you are ready to eat.

To preserve garlic until a new harvest in an apartment, dry it well and put it in boxes or three-liter jars, sprinkling it with salt. More good way: storage in paraffin. Melt a paraffin candle in a water bath, carefully, holding the stem, dip the head of garlic into this paraffin. The trick here is that the garlic will “breathe” through the stem. If you need garlic, peel off the paraffin shell, and that’s it.

Here old way, published in the magazine “Peasant Woman”: dry the garlic, trim off the leaves and roots, place in an enamel pan in layers, sprinkling each layer with flour. Cover the pan with a lid and place in a dry place. Until spring, the garlic will look as if it had just been picked from the garden.

Garlic is sweeter than beets and is therefore prohibited for diabetics.

Brown cloves in garlic heads should not be scary. This is not rot or mite. This is - and this is another little-known fact about garlic - how the caramelized juice appears. The fact is that garlic is extremely rich in sugars, it is sweeter than beets and therefore, by the way, is prohibited for diabetics. Winter garlic contains more sugars than spring garlic; when exposed to air, it dries out and the juice caramelizes. The appearance of brown cloves is explained simply by a violation of the integrity of the garlic skin. That’s why you need to remove garlic and store it without damaging the bulbs.

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