DIY plasterboard suspended ceiling step by step. How to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands - step-by-step instructions and advice from experts

Step by step guide with photos and videos on how to make a suspended ceiling from plasterboard with your own hands. Nuances and subtleties of installation technology

In previous articles, we dealt with ceilings and now we will look at plasterboard suspension systems. Decorating the ceiling is a responsible task, the execution of which largely determines the overall picture of the room’s interior.

Suspended ceilings made of plasterboard allow you to create interiors in a variety of styles

Suspended ceilings help to level the level of the ceiling, while at the same time eliminating surface unevenness. In terms of design options, such suspended structures are very diverse: there are vinyl, aluminum, etc.

There is nothing difficult about making a suspended ceiling from plasterboard with your own hands. Any owner who has basic construction and construction skills can easily cope with this task. repair work. The main thing is to correctly select the necessary materials and carry out installation, adhering to a number of recommendations.

Selection of materials and tools

The key to reliability and durability of the design is right choice material. To assemble a suspended ceiling with your own hands, you should purchase the main components of the structure in advance, which include:

To attach profiles you will need:

To secure the hangers, you also need to prepare 8x10 dowels. Connect the profiles together and attach the frame to concrete base Galvanized screws 4.2x51 will help. For fixation plasterboard sheets Self-tapping screws 25 mm long will be needed.

To install the structure you will need the following tools:

A building level is needed to accurately mark the horizontal line for installing the guide profile. A two-meter level will be required when marking drywall sheets.

To execute Finishing work After installing it yourself, you should prepare materials in advance, which include:

• Serpyanka - reinforcing tape for seams;
• Sealing self-adhesive tape;
• Acrylic primer;
• Putty for seams;
• Paint brush or roller;
• Medium spatula;
• Fine-grained sandpaper;
• Sound and thermal insulation (if necessary).

Porous sealing tape on a self-adhesive basis helps ensure that the frame adheres tightly to the concrete surface.

Taping seams with serpyanka

Preparatory work

The first thing you need to do before installing a suspended ceiling with your own hands is to solve the issue of lighting the room. At this stage, it is important to choose the type of lamps that are supposed to be installed, their power, location on the ceiling surface and the total number lighting fixtures.

The height of the frame will depend on these parameters, which will ultimately affect the height of the walls of the room.

Having designed the suspended ceiling lighting, they carry out the wiring electrical wires, the ends of which are lowered down in places where lighting fixtures are installed and secured with clamps.

Diagram: lighting system installation

To determine the ceiling level and create a perfectly straight line for arranging the frame, first make marks on the walls. To simplify the task, strokes are first applied with a pencil along the walls of the room at a convenient height of 1.7 m, each time guided by a laser or water level. Then they are connected using a painting cord into a single line.

Then, using a tape measure, measure the distance from the drawn line to the base surface, determining the lowest point of the ceiling.

Tip: To calculate the height of the future frame, step back from the intended lowest point of the base surface to the height of the profile and add 5-8 mm to this value for the gap. When installing spotlights, the height of the frame should be correlated with the size of their base.

Having established the distance from the lowest point mark to the horizontal line, draw a parallel line under the ceiling. It will serve as a guide for securing the guide profile.

Installation of the suspended structure frame

A guide profile is installed along the perimeter of the room, placing it so that the lower end coincides with the horizontal line marked on the wall.

Metal frame for suspended ceiling

Having measured the required length of the profile, cut it using metal scissors. Then, pressing it tightly to the line on the wall, fix it on the dowels, drilling directly through the profile. For creating robust construction the interval between holes should be at least 30-40 cm, and at the edges and corners - 15 cm.

Where the middle of the plasterboard sheets are placed, additional fastening should be provided. A sealing tape is glued to each profile, fixing the structure to the wall with dowels.

Installation of the ceiling profile is carried out in several stages:

Sheathing the gypsum board frame

The principle of attaching plasterboard sheets to metal frame pretty simple. They are raised to the level of the frame and fixed with self-tapping screws every 10-15 cm.
When installing plasterboard sheets, it is important to follow a number of recommendations:

The sheets must be fastened parallel to the longitudinal profiles, excluding the coincidence of the joints. In places where sections and whole sheets join, in order to prevent possible cracks during subsequent puttying, it is necessary to make indentations with a knife.

Covering the frame with plasterboard

All sheet joints must be located strictly on the profiles. A gap of 1 mm is always left between adjacent sheets.

The screws begin to be screwed in from the corner of the sheet, moving towards the center. They are screwed in at right angles, “recessing” the caps into the sheet by 1 mm.

Tip: To cut a sheet lengthwise or crosswise, you need to cut the cardboard shell with a knife on one of the sides at the intended point, applying the rule. Then bend it along the cut line, cutting through the cardboard on the opposite side.

To obtain rectangular holes, it is convenient to use a hacksaw, and for round holes for lamps, an electric drill equipped with a special “crown”. If you need to make a round hole with a diameter of more than 80 mm, it is enough to drill several holes along the contour of the circle, and inner part Squeeze the resulting circle out.

Other secrets of mastery when working with drywall video:

Having sheathed the frame with sheets, the mounted ceiling is allowed to “settle” for one to two days. After this, they move on to surface finishing. First, coat it with a primer. Then all joints are carefully sealed with putty, and the seams are reinforced with reinforcing tape. In addition to the joints, the “recessed” screw heads are puttied.
The plastered ceiling is left for a day. After the finishing material has completely dried, the joints are “sanded” with fine-grained sandpaper. The cleaned surface is covered with finishing putty. After drying, the joints are “sanded” again, carefully inspected under the light of a lamp, and if irregularities and scratches are detected, they are again covered with a finish. Final sanding is performed when the material is completely dry, i.e. in 7-8 hours. Ideas for finishing options can be taken from photos on the Internet.

Having mastered the technology of installing a single-level suspended ceiling, it will be possible to move on to more complex designs, using interesting combined options instead of standard solutions.

Suspended plasterboard ceiling: photo

Traditional material for hanging ceiling structures– drywall. This ceiling can hide all communications in the interceiling space. You can make a regular, single-level ceiling, or complicate its design by making the ceiling a room zonator.

The first step in great job You will need to draw up a plan that includes consumables; a drawing is required (especially if the ceiling is complex); in the case of a shaped ceiling, you may have to make templates.

The work itself will proceed according to the following plan:

• Preparation;
• Installation of metal frame;
• Ceiling finishing;
• Putty of the ceiling surface;
• Finishing;
• Installation of lighting fixtures.

Each of the stages can be done independently. Making such a ceiling is not the easiest undertaking, but it will not only allow you to properly level the surface, but also create a ceiling decor that is original and aesthetic.

Construction of a frame for the ceiling

First you must mark the ceiling horizontal plane. Usually a laser or water level is used. It is difficult to do this alone; it is better to enlist the help of a partner.

What should be done:

• Using a level, place marks around the perimeter of the wall. The minimum by which you can lower the ceiling is 3 cm, and if you are going to make recessed lamps, then their size will be a guideline for the height of the ceiling lowering.
• Connect the marks together. Do this simply with painting thread. Mark ceiling surface in order to install direct hangers and load-bearing CD-60 profiles.
• After marking is completed, the guide profile is attached. It needs to be installed on the walls around the perimeter of the room, oriented towards the markings. The profile must be secured with dowels, the interval is from 300 to 450 mm.
• Along the ceiling markings, straight hangers must be attached at intervals of 600 mm using self-tapping screws and dowels. At an angle of 90 degrees, lower their ends in the form of the letter U. Using 12 mm self-tapping screws with a drill, the supporting profiles are fixed to the U-shaped hangers.

If necessary, the profiles are joined with a direct connector; by the way, it can be made from a supporting profile. Crabs are attached to the supporting profile at intervals of 600 mm. To do this, use profile sections UD-27. Connect them between the crabs and the guides with 12mm self-tapping screws.

Do-it-yourself plasterboard ceiling covering: step-by-step instructions

The frame is ready, but this does not mean that the gypsum board can already be attached.

The work goes like this:

• Lay the wiring in corrugated plastic pipes and secure it to the floor slabs with clamps. According to the plan for placing the lamps, release loops of wires at the places where the lighting equipment is connected.
• Then you can sheathe the frame. Start attaching with a single sheet. The pitch of the screws is 200 mm. Lay the first row correctly, the second is mounted on offset ceilings. Be sure that the joints of the first row will be covered with slabs of the second row by at least one transverse profile.
• Install the gypsum boards so that there is a five-millimeter gap at the walls. It serves as a kind of compensation for moisture and temperature expansion of the material. If you do not do this, the gypsum ceiling runs the risk of cracking.

Installation of a single-level plasterboard ceiling (video)

The final stage of installing a plasterboard ceiling

The work is not yet completed, but perhaps the simplest and most enjoyable stage lies ahead. You need to putty the ceiling and seal the seams. To do this, thoroughly treat the seams with a primer and wait until the primer dries. Do not tear the cardboard off the sheets!

Ordinary putty is not used for sealing seams; you need a very strong one; the Knauf line has such.

• Apply the putty according to the instructions, first of all, seal all the seams near the wall, then take hold of the joints. Don't forget about the screw caps.
• To seal a factory seam, first fill it with compound, and then use a wide putty knife to align the indentation with the edge of the sheet.
• After the putty has dried, glue the sickle tape onto the seams. At intersections it must be glued with an overlap. Dilute the putty a little more and cover the serpyanka, as well as any minor defects that remain. It is easier to putty with an angled spatula.
• The effect of protection against cracks is enhanced by fiberglass spider webs. Even if some protrusions remain after sealing the seams, further finishing will correct them.
• After this, the joint treated with putty is rubbed down (the fine grout method is used). You will get a smooth, even surface.
• After grouting, let the drywall dry, and then prime the seams again. Then a finishing putty layer with a fine-grained structure is applied, usually using white putty.

Do not forget that the work is carried out with the windows and vents closed; there should be no drafts. Otherwise, the finishing may suffer, and cracks, too, cannot be avoided in such a disrupted operating mode.

Finishing putty is not carried out if you are going to cover the ceiling with wallpaper or other decorative options(glossy finish). You just need to putty the joints and level the surface after the seams.

Puttying drywall seams (video)

Such a “sandwich” made of cardboard and plaster like gypsum board in almost any home can become a future beautiful and original ceiling. Look for ideas in a photo gallery, make sketches, outline a plan, and do it yourself installed ceiling will become your pride.

September 28, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works(laying a foundation, erecting walls, constructing a roof, etc.). Internal construction work (laying internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communications, high technology, computer equipment, programming.

Today I will talk about how to make a suspended ceiling from plasterboard. In my opinion, this is one of the pretty simple ways its arrangement. The instructions presented below are understandable even for the most inexperienced novice builders.

Using it, you can do all the work yourself, saving on construction labor costs. And since the price of the material itself is not that high, the cost of the entire project will be quite affordable.

Ceiling installation and necessary materials

Structurally, a plasterboard ceiling is a frame that is attached to the walls and ceiling of the room, and then sheathed with plasterboard, after which it is decorated decorative materials. The frame can be single-level or multi-level.

If you have not made suspended ceilings from plasterboard with your own hands before, I advise you to go with the first option. This is what we will talk about next.

To construct a single-level frame, you need galvanized ceiling profiles PP (CD) 60 by 27 mm and PPN (UD) 28 by 27 mm. To connect them together, metal screws and single-level connectors (“crabs”) are used.

I will hang the profiles from the ceiling using U-shaped brackets (“pawns”). You can replace them with spring hangers. Brackets and profiles will be attached to the walls with screws and plastic dowels.

I recommend using plasterboard 9.5 mm thick, 1200 mm wide and 2500 mm long. If you are going to sheathe a room with increased level humidity (bathroom, toilet), you need to buy moisture-resistant green plasterboard. In all other cases, standard brown (grayish) will do.

If you follow the tips listed above, you will achieve the optimal combination of strength characteristics and weight. The normal value is 13 kg per 1 square meter of ceiling.

As for tools, you will need:

• perforator for making holes in the floor slab and enclosing walls;
• screwdriver for tightening screws;
• metal scissors for cutting profiles;
• laser or water level for marking;
• tools for puttying drywall.

The process of installing gypsum boards on the ceiling consists of only three stages:

Beginning of work

So, before you make a suspended ceiling from plasterboard with your own hands, you need to properly prepare the ceiling and develop a project for the future structure.

Surface preparation

I want to say right away that the suspended ceiling perfectly hides all the defects of the floor slab. Therefore, the preparation work will not be extensive. Their main task is to ensure reliable fastening of the frame to the floor slab and walls.

To do this I usually do the following:

1. I am dismantling the old finish. You need to strip off the old wallpaper or paint down to the layer of putty or plaster. By the way, if the paint on the ceiling does not fall off, but is held very firmly, it is also not necessary to scrape it all off. It is enough to remove damaged areas that may crumble.

1. I am repairing a floor slab. Before installing gypsum boards, it is necessary to repair defects in the reinforced concrete ceiling slab. To do this, using a repair cement mortar or polyurethane foam, large gaps and cracks need to be sealed.

If you find areas with exposed reinforcement, then before sealing you need to clean the metal from rust, coat it with a rust converter, and after the latter has dried, seal the cracks.

1. Ground surface. This operation allows you to remove dust from the ceiling slab. If you are going to make a ceiling in a room with high humidity, it is better to take a primer with antiseptic properties, designed for working on a mineral base.

1. I install engineering communications. Before installing the ceiling, you need to take care of installing engineering systems. Usually we are talking about ventilation ducts and electrical cables. I recommend making the first ones from plastic pipes. And the wires should be placed in protective corrugations, which will protect them from fire in the event of a short circuit.

There is no need to bring the ceiling to perfection and level it strictly according to level. After all, this will be done using a frame and plasterboard sheets.

Project development

Now let's get down to creating a project for the future ceiling. Again, if you are going to design a complex multi-level ceiling, I recommend using specialized computer applications for this. They will also calculate the amount necessary materials.

In the case I am describing, the ceiling will be single-level, without complex zigzags and steps. Therefore, you can calculate it yourself. I will give an approximate calculation scheme for a room measuring 3 by 6 meters:

1. First you need to determine the perimeter of the room - ours will be 3+3+6+6=18 meters. This is exactly how much UD ceiling guide profile is needed. Naturally, take with a small reserve, in case something goes bad. In addition, they will need to be nested within each other, which also needs to be taken into account.
   When measuring a room, measure all walls. There are times when opposite walls are not equal to each other. Then take a higher value.
2. Next you need to calculate the number of load-bearing ceiling profile CD. In my case, it will be mounted at a distance of 50 cm from each other across the room. Accordingly, 600 / 50 cm = 12 pieces. This is for the case when the gypsum board will be attached along the room. The length of the sheet is 2500 mm, that is, its edges will fall directly on the supporting parts.
   If you lay gypsum board sheets across the room, the distance between the supporting profiles should be 60 cm (since the sheet width is 120 cm). Then 600 / 60 = 10 pieces.
3. At the next stage, the number of U-shaped suspensions is calculated. They are attached to the supporting profile at a distance of 60 cm. The length of the profile in our case is 3 meters. That is, 300 / 60 = 5 suspensions. We have 12 profiles. That means 12 * 5 = 60 hangers.
   Remember that the first and last hangers need to be mounted at a distance of 30 cm from the wall, and the rest - at a distance of 60 cm from each other.
4. You also need to calculate the number of crabs. You will need 24 of them, that is, twice as many as CD carrier profiles.

The number of screws and dowels can also be counted, but I do not advise you to stop there. Buy a box of self-tapping screws for fastening profiles, for screwing drywall, and screws with dowels for mounting the frame on the walls.

Step-by-step guide for installing gypsum boards

Sequencing:

1. I'm marking up. First you need to arm yourself with a laser or bubble level and mark a line on the enclosing walls of the room that will be located strictly horizontally. In my case, the floor slab has protrusions-ribs, so I drew the line a little lower. You can draw a straight line or mark it with a dotted line as shown in the photo below.

These marks will subsequently serve as a guide for fixing the UD ceiling guide profiles.

1. Next, I take an ordinary metal drill with a diameter of 7 mm and drill holes in the guide parts, which will later be necessary for installing screws with dowels.

Holes must be drilled in the profile at a distance of 50 cm from each other. The extreme ones should be 10 cm away from the profile cut. I make holes in the profile in advance so that later I do not have to drill the part with a drill with a Pobedit tip (which is intended for concrete walls).

1. Installing guide profiles on walls. To do this, I attach the profile to the drawings (lines) made on the wall, after which, after drilled holes I use a hammer drill to drill holes in the walls. The drill diameter in this case is 6 mm.

After this, I insert a dowel-nail into the hole made in the wall (with the attached profile, of course). He is plastic part with a thickening at the end where a metal core is driven in.

The dowel size is 6 by 50 mm. The dowel is simply driven in with a hammer. If you make any mistake during installation, you can later unscrew it with a screwdriver or screwdriver.

At the corners of the room, the guide profiles are inserted into each other, after which the connection point is strengthened with a small self-tapping screw. If you need to join two elements (if its length is not enough for the entire room), you will simply need to insert two guides into one another. In this place, you must drill a through hole and drive another dowel-nail into the wall.

1. I install load-bearing galvanized profiles. As I already mentioned, in my case the gypsum boards will be laid along the room. Accordingly, the distance between adjacent parts will be 50 cm. You need to take a tape measure and mark the walls, placing marks at a distance of 50 cm from each other.

Then you need to adjust the profiles to the width of the room (if they are narrower). To do this, I recommend measuring the profile of the required length (5 mm less than the distance between the walls), then using scissors to make cuts along the side shelves, and then simply break it off by bending and unbending the part. Then the top ones need to be trimmed a little diagonally, as shown in the photo.

If the width of the room is such that the length of one profile part is not enough, you need to use two products, joining them together with a connector, which can be bought in a store. If you don’t have one at hand, you can make it yourself. The scheme is like this:

• I cut a piece 20 cm long from the CD part (a little less is possible);
• after that I cut off two short shelves that are located along the sides of the profile;
• then this part is bent exactly in the middle along the central groove so that the profile takes on the appearance of the Latin letter W. This is clearly visible in the illustration below.

Then you need to insert the trimmed profiles into the guides. To do this, you need to place one end, then move the part diagonally and insert it into the opposite guide. In this case, the products must be positioned so that their center (visible on the profile) is exactly aligned with the mark on the wall.

If your distance between the last load-bearing plank or the wall of the room is more than 50 cm, you need to divide the remaining distance in half and install an additional profile in this place for strength.

But keep in mind that the CD parts must be positioned so that the edges of the gypsum board must be placed on them.

1. After you have placed all the profiles on the guides according to the markings, they need to be secured with self-tapping screws. I use one screw for each profile on each side. You can tighten the screws using a screwdriver. I install the transverse elements of the supporting profiles.

Here I’ll also start with markup. Considering that I will place the sheet of drywall lengthwise, I need to measure a distance of 1200 mm from one of the walls and make the corresponding marks on each load-bearing profile. For this, it is better to use a marker, since a pencil does not draw well and is difficult to see on galvanized surfaces. You will get this markup.

To connect two frame elements at the same level, a special part is required, which is popularly called a “crab”. It looks like this. It has special latches, thanks to which it is securely fixed to the CD profile. These crabs need to be inserted into already installed parts

, guided by pre-marked marks. To avoid longitudinal sliding of the bracket, it is advisable to secure it to the carrier with a self-tapping screw. For this purpose, the part has the necessary holes. One screw is enough. Then the crossbars are attached to the crabs. To do this you need to cut required quantity

If the width of the room is more than 2.6 meters, you will need as many rows of transverse elements as there will be plasterboard joints. In my case it's two rows. Everything will depend on the perimeter of the room. But the installation principle will remain the same.

It happens that you incorrectly calculated the number of crabs, and there were not enough brackets for installation. Then you can fasten several parts without them. To do this, you need to correctly cut the guide profile:

• first you need to measure a profile, the length of which will be 40 mm greater than the distance between the guides;
• then the side flanges should be cut so that tongues are formed from the wide edge (their edges should also be cut at a slight angle).

Then this part can simply be screwed onto the CD profile using one self-tapping screw. You need to orientate along the central stiffening rib. In principle, using this advice, you can completely stop using crabs. This will not affect the strength in any way.

1. I fix the frame on the concrete floor. Without it plasterboard construction will not hold securely, since its length is quite large. For fixation, U-shaped perforated hangers are used, which craftsmen call “pawns”.

Suspensions should hold long supporting profiles at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. Therefore, you must first make marks on the parts with a marker at the same distance from each other.

Above the marked places you need to make two holes to secure the bracket. To avoid mistakes, you can attach a bracket and then make holes. In the end it will look like this:

To secure the suspensions themselves, you can use dowel nails or anchor bolts. In my case, I use screws that I screw into dry birch tips. This is due to the fact that the thickness of the floor slab in this room is not enough to reliably drive the dowels into it. But this is only a feature of this particular installation.

Then I screw on the hangers. In my case, the distance between the ceiling and the frame is such that I have to use two hangers, placing them on both sides of the supporting profile. But, as a rule, one suspension will do. Then you just need to bend its petals at an angle of 90 degrees relative to the floor slab.

Mounting is done as shown in the photo:

Remember that you first need to secure all the suspensions to the ceiling, without attaching them to the supporting profiles. Before screwing the brackets directly to the frame, the latter must be leveled relative to the horizontal, since now the profiles sag a little under their own weight.

Now I’ll tell you how you can easily align this entire structure:

• First, you should raise the entire frame in the center so that it is obviously higher than the required level, and secure it in this state to the hangers using self-tapping screws in two or three places. This will be a temporary mount that will be removed later.
• Then you need to secure the cord. A screw with a string attached to it is screwed into the guide at one wall, then it is pulled across the entire room and screwed to the screw on the opposite guide profile. If you raised the ceiling (as described in the previous paragraph), then a small gap will form between the rope and the frame.

• If you do not want to raise the ceiling, you can fasten the thread from the top of the guide profile. Then the ceiling will sag and a gap will still form, which is necessary for leveling.
• After all the threads are tensioned, you can align the profile with a reference point and secure it to the hangers. Be sure to leave a gap of about 1 mm so that the already aligned parts do not disturb the plane formed by the stretched ropes.

This surface leveling process takes most time required to install the ceiling. But it must be done carefully and without haste, otherwise you will end up with a crooked surface.

One more thing. If after fastening you still have protruding parts of the brackets, you just need to bend them back. No need to cut.

1. I am insulating the ceiling surface. You can also omit this step if insulation of the ceiling is not required. But in my case, the floor slab is too thin and requires thermal insulation. In addition, the material used will act as a soundproofing layer.

As thermal insulation, I will use foil penofol 4 mm thick. An additional reflective heat shield will be effective enough to thermal energy was not wasted through the ceiling.

The difficulty in my case is securing the penofol, since I will not attach it to the profile with a stapler or screws. The solution for me was shoe glue.

By the way, you can replace it with liquid nails. Well, another alternative option is to use double-sided tape.

I coated the bottom surface of the profiles with glue, and then those areas of penofol that will be glued. After this, I installed the insulation. Remember that you need to glue it so that the foil side is located towards the living room. All this is clearly visible in the photo.

1. I attach the sheets of drywall to the profile. It is better to do this with a partner who will hold the sheets while securing. But I’ll tell you further how you can still get by only on your own.

In this case, to work you will need two supports shaped like the letters T (or mops). Their length should be such that in a vertical position it practically rests on the surface of the ceiling frame (even without taking into account the thickness of the plasterboard). A support of the simplest design is shown in the photo.

I'll tell you how to use this mop:

• First you need to install the mop against the wall so that there is a gap between it and the ceiling, where you can place a plasterboard sheet of thickness.
• Then you need to take a sheet of drywall and lean it on this support.
• After this, you should grab the sheet by the opposite (bottom) edge and lift it to the ceiling. In this case, the opposite edge should touch the wall tightly and be fixed between the frame and the short part of the mop.
• Having lifted it from the floor, you need to slip a second mop under the bottom and bring the sheet to the level of the previously made frame.
• As a result, the plasterboard sheet will be pressed against the ceiling in the manner shown in the photograph.

Then you can take a stepladder and fix the sheet to the frame using drywall screws. They need to be screwed along the edge of the sheet and into those areas where profiles pass under the sheet. The distance between adjacent screws should be 30-40 cm.

When screwing in the self-tapping screw, be sure to hold the gypsum board with your hand. Because when screwing a self-tapping screw into a profile, the sheet may move slightly away from the surface. There is a danger that it will fall from your supports.

The screw head after screwing should not rise above the level of the sheet. It needs to be sunk a little deeper, but not completely destroy the sheet of cardboard that protects the plaster from destruction.

All other sheets are installed in the same way.

1. Execute finishing ceiling. To do this, it is necessary to putty the places where the heads of the screws are visible, as well as the joints of the plasterboard sheets (fiberglass mesh is usually laid along the seams).

5.00/5 (1 ratings)

A major renovation of an apartment or house involves the complete replacement of all finishing materials, flooring and ceiling. According to experts and ordinary people, the most difficult process is repairing the ceiling. Bringing an old ceiling into proper shape is a long and labor-intensive process. This is due to the unevenness of the tiled floors and their different levels. In order to eliminate such defects it is necessary to resort to modern technologies, as an option you can use the system suspended ceilings. But such a ceiling is quite an expensive option.

In order to save money and time, you can make a suspended ceiling from plasterboard. Its advantages include relatively simple installation and not very high price. How to make a suspended ceiling from plasterboard with your own hands will be discussed in this article.

Required tools for installation

In order to make a suspended ceiling from plasterboard yourself, you must first prepare all the necessary materials and tools. So that during the work process there are no problems with the lack of one or another tool. Because it will delay work. To get started you need the following tools:

• A water or laser level is necessary for the most accurate marking along which the guide profile will be installed. A water level is not expensive, but it is highly accurate. It requires two people to operate it. If your budget is not limited, you can purchase a more expensive option - a laser level.

• Level. The length must be at least 2 meters, which will allow you to determine the evenness of the fixed drywall.
• A hammer drill is required during installation of the profile frame.
• Screwdriver, you can also use a drill. They are necessary for securing the profile and drywall.
• Smaller tools, but no less important, include: a tape measure, at least 5 meters, a mechanic's knife, with spare blades, a pencil, metal scissors. Also, if possible, you can use a grinder with a metal cutting wheel or a hacksaw.

Suspended ceiling materials

After all the necessary tools have been prepared, you need to purchase the materials from which the suspended ceiling will be installed.

Profile for suspended ceiling

In order to properly make a metal profile frame, you need to purchase two types of profiles: guide and ceiling. To obtain a high-quality design, it is recommended to use profiles from the same manufacturer. In order to calculate the number of guide profiles, it is necessary to measure the perimeter of the room. For example, for a room measuring 5x4, you need to purchase 7 pieces (and one spare) of three-meter profiles. If you buy profiles 4 meters long, you will need 5 of them. If you plan to install a multi-level ceiling, you need to calculate the length of the additional structure. The ceiling, C-shaped profile is calculated according to a different scheme. The plasterboard sheet has a width of 1250 mm, its fastening must be done in increments of 600 mm. For this example of a room, it is better to use a profile 4 meters long, this will reduce the amount of waste. For marking, a five-meter wall must be divided into equal parts of 60 cm, as a result, 8 ceiling profiles are needed. This calculation serves as the basis for calculating the required number of profiles. If the design is more complex or has several levels, they are calculated separately and added to the main part.

Plasterboard for suspended ceiling

This material is available in 3 types: regular, fireproof and moisture resistant. For a room where there is no high humidity, you can use the usual type of drywall. You should not take plasterboard for a suspended ceiling with a thickness of more than 8-10 mm. Large thickness will only increase the weight of the entire structure, but will not bring any benefit. Also, installing a suspended ceiling made from thick plasterboard will be more difficult due to its heavy weight. Calculation of a suspended ceiling, namely the required number of sheets, can be done using the formula. For this total area the ceiling must be divided by the area of ​​one plasterboard sheet, the result will be required amount sheets. As an example, we use the previous dimensions of the room. Square standard sheet drywall is approximately 3 square meters. For a room of 20 square meters you will need 7 sheets. To be on the safe side, it is better to take 1 sheet more.

Suspended ceiling mount

For a room with an area of ​​20 square meters, and a ceiling structure of one level, you need to purchase 40-50 pieces of direct suspension. This fastener is relatively inexpensive, so you don’t have to calculate the exact quantity. If the suspended ceiling involves several levels, and the plasterboard sheets are very thick, it is better to buy more hangers, this will ensure greater reliability. If the design involves several shaped levels, then the suspensions can be calculated independently, taking into account the step between them of 600-700 mm. You may also need connecting elements - crabs, or replace them with a connection of direct hangers. To attach the guide profile to the wall, you must use 8x10 dowels. Self-tapping screws are used to connect the profiles to each other. A sufficient number of them will be required. To secure plasterboard sheets to the profile frame, you need to use self-tapping screws 25 mm long; you also need a lot of them.

Installation of a suspended ceiling made of plasterboard

After preparing and acquiring all the necessary materials and tools, you can begin to work. The first thing you need to start working on is marking. In order to correctly mark the location of the guide profile, it is necessary to use a water level. In order to install in a suspended ceiling Spotlights, or fix a layer of thermal insulation, you must retreat at least 10 cm from the ceiling. After this, use a hydraulic level to opposite walls ah, they achieve the same water level, and set marks. This procedure is carried out on all walls and corners.

Installation of a frame for a suspended ceiling begins with a guide profile. After the basting is ready, you need to use a puncher to make holes for the dowels. Attach the guide profile to the wall with dowels at intervals of 30-40 cm; in the corners, reduce the interval to 10-15 cm.

When the guide profile is installed along the entire perimeter of the room, using a tape measure it is necessary to make markings at intervals of 60 cm. This marking is necessary for the exact location of the ceiling profile. If the ceiling is one level, the ceiling profile is mounted in one direction, so markings are needed on two opposite walls. If the ceiling design is more complex, and it is necessary to make a grid from the ceiling profile, then markings must be made on each wall.

When all the markings have been applied, you can begin attaching the direct suspension to the ceiling. The interval between the hangers should be 60-70 cm. A deviation of a couple of centimeters does not play any role. When all the hangers are installed, you can begin installing the frame for the suspended ceiling. To do this, the main part is installed - the ceiling profile. It is fixed along the entire length with direct hangers and at the junction with the guide profile.

In our example, a ceiling profile 4 meters long is used, with the same width of the room. This allowed the use of one profile. If the length of the metal profile is not enough, you can use two profiles. For such a case, the joints must be reinforced with additional fasteners from direct hangers. All other fastening must be done as in the case of a solid profile.

It is very important to control the level of the ceiling profile. It must be checked using a two meter level throughout the entire process of connecting to straight hangers. If this indicator is not controlled after finishing the work and installing the plasterboard sheets, the surface will have a wavy nature. The frame for a suspended ceiling must be checked with a level of different directions, and in different places. If any irregularities occur, they must be corrected immediately. When the metal profile frame is ready, it is necessary to carry out electrical wiring for future lamps; if it is necessary to insulate the ceiling, insulation is fixed between the profiles. And so the frame is ready to begin the next stage, which is fixing the plasterboard sheets.

Covering the frame with plasterboard and puttying work

Once the frame is ready, you can begin installing the plasterboard sheets. The process itself is quite simple, you need to lift the sheets and secure them with self-tapping screws. The interval between fastenings should be 10-15 cm. It is worth paying attention to whole sheet drywall, they have beveled edges, this is necessary for the puttying process. Thus, there will be more putty at the joints, and this will prevent the appearance of cracks. If pieces are used during puttying, the edges must be cut off a little. Cover the entire ceiling with plasterboard sheets.

When installing drywall, you should pay attention to the screw heads. During the fastening process, they must be deepened into the drywall by 1 mm. If the screws protrude above the surface, this will interfere with puttying. After securing all the drywall, you need to cut holes for the lamps. To do this, it is better to use a special attachment for a drill or hammer drill.

Ways to decorate a suspended ceiling

Today there are many ways that will allow. The very first way is to use different colors, this looks especially advantageous on ceilings with different levels. The ceiling can also be decorated using polyurethane or foam baguettes. How and with what to decorate the ceiling depends only on personal preferences and tastes, since it is you who will live under this ceiling. Therefore, the ceiling must meet all the requirements of the residents of this house or apartment.

So, the conclusion of this article: you can make a suspended ceiling from plasterboard yourself. The main thing is to carefully mark and check the level of all planes. And the result will be a smooth ceiling with a good finish.

Video: DIY plasterboard ceiling

In the category | with tags |

Finishing the ceiling in most cases is associated with many doubts. Wide range of materials and colors, diversity design solutions– all this does not in any way contribute to making it easy to choose something specific.

Type of drywall (brand)	Application area	Leaf color	Marking color
Regular (gypsum plasterboard)	Finishing walls and ceilings; construction of non-load-bearing partitions	Grey	Blue
Moisture resistant (GKLV)	Finishing walls and ceilings of kitchens, bathrooms; construction of partitions in rooms with high humidity	Green	Blue
Fire resistant (GKLO)	Finishing of air ducts and communication shafts; finishing metal structures in civil buildings	Grey	Red
Moisture-resistant (GKLVO)	Finishing of structures to achieve the required degree of fire resistance in wet areas(kitchens, bathrooms, bathrooms, baths, saunas, etc.)	Green	Red

Among the variety of finishing materials, experts advise choosing plasterboard. This is one of the most popular materials in our country, which, thanks to the latest developments found in Lately qualities such as moisture resistance and high temperatures. In this regard, drywall can be:

The popularity of the material is due to numerous advantages, including:

• no need for complex preparatory procedures - material processing is as simple as possible;
• low cost;
• ease of processing and installation;
• wide range of applications;
• low maintenance (you need to wipe the ceiling with a damp cloth every few months).

But there are also disadvantages:

• lack of elasticity (in which plasterboard is inferior to PVC film);
• susceptibility to moisture (if the material is not moisture resistant);
• flammability (if not fire-resistant, respectively).

Prices for drywall and sheet materials

Drywall and sheet materials

Stage 1. Drafting

To work you will need a project. To create it, you can use one of the special architectural programs that allow you to get ready-made diagram and required volumes Supplies. If you do everything the old fashioned way, you will have to spend much more time and effort.

Step 1. Using a special formula, the perimeter is determined. It looks like this (if the room dimensions are, for example, 5x4 m):

(5 + 4) x 2 = 18 m (P)

It turns out that the length of the guide profiles will be 18 m. Then the obtained data is displayed on graph paper.

Note! If the lengths of opposite walls are different (this happens quite often), then a larger figure is taken for calculations.

Step 2. After this you need to start calculating the frame profile. The work will use 6x2.7 cm profiles - they will be fixed in increments of 0.6 m. It is important that the length of each profile is equal to the width of the room. To calculate the number of slats, the width of the room (400 cm) must be divided by the pitch (60 cm). As a result of simple calculations, we get: 6.66 (the amount is rounded to 7.0).

The first and last slats are attached 10 cm from the surface of the walls, and all the rest - according to the above step.

Note! The step of 60 cm was not chosen by chance. The fact is that the standard width of plasterboard sheets is 0.6 or 1.2 m.

The mounting locations for the slats are transferred to the project.

400/60 x 7 = 47 pieces.

The first and last suspension is attached 30 cm from the surface of the walls. The attachment points are indicated in the diagram by crosses. We also note that it is preferable to use spring hangers, while straight ones are acceptable only in two cases:

• with a completely flat ceiling surface;
• with a structure height of more than 12 cm.

Step 4. After this, you need to determine the number of jumpers that will add rigidity to the structure.

((400/60) – 1) x 7 = 40 pieces.

Step 5. All that remains is to determine the required number of screws and plasterboard sheets. Given the known area of ​​the room (20 m²) and the sheet (3 m²), this is quite easy to do - you will need almost five sheets of material.

There shouldn’t be any difficulties with self-tapping screws either:

• “thirtieth” self-tapping screws will be used to fix the drywall (step length – 25 cm);
• 60x6 products will be used for walls (step length - 30 cm) and ceiling (60 cm);
• LN11 screws will be used for fittings: 4 pcs for “crabs” and profiles, 2 pcs for hangers and profiles.

You also need to note the number of lighting devices and determine the length of the electrical wiring.

Stage 2. Preparing equipment and consumables

Of course, the list necessary tools Each master has his own, because in this matter a lot depends on dexterity and the ability to use them. But there are those without which it is unlikely that the work will be completed successfully:

Note! Depending on the characteristics of the ceiling, the list can be supplemented, for example, with clamps for joining profiles located at different heights (if there are large stones in the concrete that interfere with normal drilling), etc.

Stage 3. Guide frame

After preparing everything you need, you can start working.

Step 1. First, use a tape measure to determine the lowest corner of the room. It is marked with:

• 5 cm from the ceiling, if you do not plan to install built-in lighting fixtures;
• 9 cm, if planned.

Step 2. Using a level, mark the same height in the remaining corners. After this, several more marks are placed along each wall at the height of the first point; all marks are connected to each other with a pencil, using a stretched cord or a long ruler. Although there is another option - to mark these lines pointwise.

Step 3. A guide profile is attached to the walls. If joining seams are planned between the corners (and in large rooms this cannot be done without it), then the structure must be additionally strengthened to prevent the elements from “moving apart” under its weight. Any dense material is suitable for this - tin, plastic or plywood - which must be placed over each seam and secured to the wall with strong dowels.

Note! A special sealing tape (“serpyanka”) is more suitable for this, but it is not sold in all hardware stores.

After this, the corner joints of the profile are strengthened.

Stage 4. Main ceiling profile

Step 1. As noted above, most often the plasterboard sheets have dimensions of 120 x 250 cm, which is why it is advisable to fasten the ceiling profiles in increments of 40 cm - this way each sheet will be fastened at the edges and twice in the middle.

The ceiling is marked with parallel lines in forty-centimeter increments.

Step 2. Every 2.5 meters (that is, at the transverse joints) jumpers from the same profile are attached. Of course, if the sheet sizes are different, then the distance is determined individually. “crabs” are installed at the joints.

Step 3. Next, you need to determine the location of the hangers. The first of them is installed 25 cm from the wall surface, all subsequent ones - in increments of 50 cm. Anchors are used to attach the suspensions (ordinary dowels will not work, because they do not have threads, and the structure can be “pulled out” from the ceiling under the influence of gravity).

Step 4. Ceiling profiles attached to hangers. You need to start from the corners of the room. That's it, the frame for the suspended ceiling is ready.

Stage 5. Thermal insulation

If desired, the suspended ceiling can be insulated using a special fastening system, which is popularly called a “fungus”.

Prices for popular types of insulation

Insulation

Stage 6. Installation of plasterboard sheets

First we need to understand a number of important nuances: drywall is extremely sensitive to high humidity, temperature, and also to deformation. Therefore, the material must be stored exclusively in a horizontal position, and a few days before the start of work, it must be moved to the room where the repairs are being carried out so that it can rest. This will allow you to adapt the structure of the material to specific conditions.

Further actions must be carried out according to the instructions.

Step 1. First, material for those places where less than a whole sheet is needed.

Step 2. The chamfer on the edge is removed using a mounting knife - this will ensure deeper penetration of the putty material into the cracks.

Step 3. Fastening the drywall begins from one of the corners, the first screw is placed 10 cm from the edge. The distance between the screws is 20 cm.

Note! The screw heads must be recessed. It is also important that the screws on “adjacent” sheets are not located opposite each other, but at random.

Step 4. The following sheets are installed. There remains a small gap around the perimeter (approximately 2 mm); the sheets are joined with a minimum shift of 1 cell. You need to make sure that each sheet is attached both in the center and at the edges.

Video - Installing a suspended ceiling

Stage 7. Final finishing of the ceiling

Particular attention is paid to seams, since the aesthetics of the future structure directly depends on the quality of their sealing.

Step 1. First, the seams are sealed with a primer - this will change the porous structure, it will become denser and, as a result, absorb the putty better. After this, you need to wait until the primer is completely absorbed and dry.

Step 2. Putty is applied to the screw heads and seams between the sheets. To do this, you need to use only a high-quality spatula, with sharp and even edges.

It must be special, intended for seams (this point needs to be clarified in hardware store or in the manufacturer's instructions).

Step 3. When the seams are completely dry, they should be taped with seam tape. It is typical that the joints are sealed with an overlap. The tape is treated with putty, and all detected cracks are sealed at the same time.

Step 4. Once dry, apply a finishing coat (such as paint, plaster, etc.).

Step 5. Installed (if they are provided for by the previously drawn up project).

Video - Installation of spotlights

Note! InstallingDIY plasterboard, do not forget about personal protective equipment. Use goggles and a respirator - they will keep you healthy.

Operating rules

1. The quality of the ceiling largely depends on the moisture resistance of the plasterboard used. The average indoor humidity is 40-75%, as a result of which regular ventilation is desirable.
2. To increase the service life of the suspended ceiling, you should clean the surface on time. This can be done with a dry or damp cloth (in the second case, you need to add a small amount of cleaning agent to the water).
3. Application abrasive materials Absolutely forbidden!
4. To ensure that the temperature inside the structure does not differ from the temperature in the room, the panels are removed immediately after installation. Next, a layer of vapor-tight material is laid (even if insulation was previously laid).
5. Pencil stains can be removed using a regular eraser.
6. The internal space of the structure must be ventilated, for which a gap of approximately 2 mm must be left around the perimeter.

As you can see, installing a suspended ceiling is quite simple, but only if you have the appropriate tools and detailed instructions.