Insulation of a house made of timber from the outside. Options for insulating a house made of timber Insulating a wooden house made of timber from the outside

According to statistics, humanity spends over 40% of energy resources on heating and cooling. These data confirm that the role of thermal insulation materials in construction is very high.

The use of high-quality insulation allows you to create comfortable conditions indoors, protect the building from temperature changes, extend its service life and reduce heating costs. Therefore, it is very important to understand how to insulate a house made of timber. This is an easy job that you can do yourself.

What insulation is best to use?

Mineral wool has low thermal conductivity and is not susceptible to rot and mold.

Houses made of timber have many advantages. A natural atmosphere reigns in such a house. It is comfortable and warm to be in. However, this does not mean that houses made of timber do not need additional insulation.

Mineral wool is considered the best thermal insulation material for a house made of timber. This material is characterized by low thermal conductivity, very high thermal insulation properties and extremely low hygroscopicity. The insulation is made of basalt.

Mineral wool thermal insulation materials are considered one of the best for insulating a house made of timber. This insulation does not support combustion, it is not afraid of fungi, mold and insects, it does not contain toxic substances and it releases vapors well into the external environment.

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Step-by-step instructions for external insulation

Insulation of a house made of timber is carried out in several stages. First, a vapor barrier material is attached, then a frame is constructed, thermal insulation is laid, another layer of frame is created, and finally the sheathing is installed. To do all this, you will need the following tools:

• building level;
• saw;
• construction stapler;
• roulette;
• hammer;
• screwdriver;
• marker;
• nails and screws;
• drill;
• dowels

The right thing starts with installing a vapor barrier. Typically polyethylene is used for this.

Suitable aluminium foil. Vapor barrier performs the most important task. It provides ventilation to the façade timber house under the film covering. Therefore, proper insulation without a vapor barrier device is impossible.

If the house is built from a round frame, then there is no need for a vapor barrier. If the walls are smooth, then vertical narrow slats about 25 mm thick are placed on them in increments of 100 cm. After this, the surface is covered with a layer of vapor barrier material. You need to make holes 2 cm in diameter at the bottom and top between the slats. Thanks to the ventilated layer between the wall surface and the vapor barrier material, moisture will not collect under the film. This will prevent the building material from rotting. The staples or nails with which the vapor barrier was attached must be sealed with tape.

Proper insulation of a house involves installing insulation into a pre-prepared frame. To make the frame, boards 10 cm wide and 5 cm thick are used. They must be fixed to the surface vertically and on an edge. The boards are packed in increments of 2 cm less than the width of the insulation boards used.

Lay the slabs mineral wool between fixed boards. Make sure that there is no gap between them. If thermal insulation with a thickness of 5 cm is used, then it must be laid in 2 layers. Each layer is laid so that the joints of the first layer of insulation fall on the middle of the slabs of the top layer.

Mineral wool mats are laid in a pre-prepared frame.

Mineral insulation is quite elastic and rigid. Its density reaches 100-120 kg/m³. This is enough for the slabs to be held without additional fasteners between the boards and not to slip.

Waterproofing must be laid on top of the insulation. The film should be such that it does not retain water, but allows steam to pass freely. Lay the film over the insulation and attach it to the frame using staples or nails. The waterproofing is laid with an overlap of 10 cm. The joints are sealed with tape.

Place wooden slats 5 cm wide and 3 cm thick onto the frame boards. Thanks to these slats, free air circulation will be ensured between the vapor barrier material and the outer cladding. It will also prevent the formation of condensation. From below, the resulting space is covered with a fairly thick metal mesh. It will protect the structure from rodents and insects.

And the external insulation of the house is completed by installing the sheathing. You can use wood or plastic sheathing. Choose the material to your taste.

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Guide to internal wall insulation

The work does not end with the external insulation of the house. To minimize heat loss and ensure a comfortable microclimate in the house, you need to perform proper internal insulation.

Before doing the main work, you need to treat the walls of the house with antifungal and antiseptic compounds. Inspect the surface carefully. Seal any existing cracks. This can be done using jute fiber and a thin chisel. Large cracks are sealed with twisted tape tow. Cover the surface with waterproofing.

First you need to make racks. Measure the height of the room and cut a beam of the same length with a section of 50x100 mm. Prepare a block of the same length, but with a cross-section of 50x50 mm. Place it along the edge of the beam and secure it with self-tapping screws. The result should be an L-shaped stand.

Make stands like this for everyone internal corner. Secure them with self-tapping screws. Check the vertical installation using a level. When all such racks are installed, vertical bars with a cross-section of 50x50 mm should be secured between them in increments of 60 cm.

After completing the installation of the sheathing, proceed to the installation of insulation. The width of the mineral wool slab should be 1-2 cm wider than the distance between the bars. The insulation is attached to the surface using anchors with round caps. To further improve thermal insulation, attach over laid mineral wool additional layer films.

After that, proceed to execution finishing works. Pre-attach the film to the bars using a construction stapler. This will allow you to later attach bars with a cross-section of 30x40 mm to the vapor barrier over the staples.

Finally, the walls are covered wooden clapboard or other suitable material. Lining is most preferable, because it helps preserve the naturalness of a log house.

Features of the Russian climate - strong wind, heat and frost, rain - one way or another, require home insulation. Let's consider how to insulate a house made of timber in accordance with regulations and heat saving standards.

In general, insulation should begin during the manufacture of the log house, laying the inter-crown seal after each row of logs. Wood is a natural material that dries out and shrinks over time. Therefore, a year later, after the walls of the log house have dried and settled, repeated work on window sealing and thermal insulation is carried out.

Materials

Only natural plant fibers are used, which are not based on any artificial additives. They provide an environmentally friendly atmosphere and do not emit harmful substances And unpleasant odors, isolate sounds well.

All cracks and corners of the building are caulked with sealants made from natural plant fibers.

Auxiliary materials

Experts do not recommend finishing the insulation of a timber house with plaster. The reason is that it gets worse as a result natural ventilation walls on the outside, which makes the wood more susceptible to rot and decay. You need to prepare the following materials for work:

• hydrobarrier;
• bars for the frame with a width corresponding to the heat insulator;
• the insulation itself is mineral wool, polystyrene foam, glass wool in rolls or slabs;
• finishing - siding or lining.

It is possible to insulate a house from the inside or outside only after the natural shrinkage of the tree has been completed. This usually occurs within a year of operation.

Classification

The timber can be made from the following materials: swamp moss, jute, made from the shoots of this plant and resistant to rotting; tow made of flax fiber and inter-crown felt. Expanded polystyrene products are best used last, since long-term use of the structure may result in destruction of the layer and the appearance of fumes containing harmful phenolic compounds.

Inter-crown felt is produced in three types: jute inter-crown felt - 90% made of jute, 10% - flax, flax felt (flax batting) made from highly purified flax fiber and flax-jute inter-crown seal - half made of flax fiber, half of jute fiber.

About interior decoration

The insulation for the interior finishing of timber can be almost any kind. The most widely used are mineral wool materials from the manufacturers ROCKWOOL, URSA, ISOVER. It is believed that they have better sound insulation, low thermal conductivity, and low hygroscopicity.

Properties of mineral wool

The fibers of the material are made from basalt, a particularly strong rock. The big advantages of mineral wool are its resistance to mold, fungi, insects, and the ability to withstand temperatures above 1000°C.

In addition, mineral wool fibers have good vapor permeability, which allows vapors to evaporate rather than accumulate in the walls. An important quality mineral wool is also considered to be free of toxic substances.

The thickness of the applied insulation slabs depends on the width of the walls of the house itself. For example, for a 150 mm beam it would be correct to use only 5 cm of mineral wool. Thinner slabs are mounted in two continuous layers. The joints must be covered to enhance the heat-saving effect.

Types of mineral wool

URSA mineral wool is a mixture of dolomite (mineral) with quartz sand. Its main advantages are high elasticity and flexibility (facilitate installation) and excellent thermal insulation characteristics (the thermal conductivity coefficient of such insulation is 0.032 W/mK).

For the walls of ventilated facades, the Ursa FACADE material is used in the form of semi-rigid fiberglass slabs, covered with black high-density fiberglass. Additionally, the boards are treated with water-repellent agents. Thanks to all these qualities, there is no need to install windproof films.

ROCKWOOL mineral wool is made from basalt rocks impregnated with a hydrophobic mixture - the chaotic arrangement of mineral fibers ensures high strength. Such material contains a minimal amount of binders. ROCKWOOL is not subject to deformation during operation. It is produced in a variety of forms - rolls, slabs, mats of various thicknesses and areas, which also differ in the degree of rigidity.

ISOVER mineral wool is made from glass fiber and is characterized by excellent heat saving properties, dimensional stability and durability. The upper surface of such plates is covered with fiberglass, so they do not require the use of diffuse membranes. When carrying out two-layer insulation, such material acts as the top layer.

Preparation for use

The thickness of the insulation used depends on what wood the house is built from and what technology is used:

• for chopped logs, at least 15 mm of insulator is laid;
• for laminated veneer lumber, a layer of 5 to 10 mm is sufficient.

All work on sealing the walls must be carried out simultaneously along the entire crown to avoid distortion of the frame. All cracks must be sealed both inside and outside. Before carrying out work, the log house is carefully inspected, all cracks are identified and caulked. Particular attention is paid to processing the corners of the log house. Window caulking alone is clearly not enough.

Insulation from the inside

After sealing the walls, work is carried out on the internal thermal insulation of the home. They consist of laying a layer between the walls and the material for interior decoration. The latter is often used gypsum fiber or drywall. For internal insulation, insulation with a vapor barrier is used, which prevents fumes from permeating it.

Insulating a house made of timber from the inside has the following risks:

• wood cracking and condensation may form;
• rotting of the log house;
• reduction of usable area of ​​the room and deterioration of the interior.

Insulation from outside

The optimal insulation option wooden house will create a ventilated facade system with an air gap - the rising currents themselves will remove unnecessary moisture. This system has high heat-protective qualities and ensures dry walls.

It is necessary to pay attention to the sealing of windows and doors, floors, installation of interfloor ceilings and attics. Floor insulation is carried out by laying a layer of waterproofing and heat insulation, on top of which a layer of vapor barrier is placed.

Beginning of work

To begin with, the entire surface of the walls is well treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. After processing, gaps and cracks are eliminated at all joints and between the timber. Gaps are eliminated with polyurethane foam or sealants, which are used when laying a log house. More often it is flax batting, jute fiber or tape tow.

After sealing all the gaps, vertical load-bearing slats are placed on the walls. The distance between them is left slightly smaller than the width of the future insulation material. This is done for easier and tighter entry into the structure.

Laying

Between the supporting rails, starting from the underside of the wall, sealing plates are laid. The slabs are secured using anchor fasteners, with the joints located close to each other and to the edges of the sheathing.

The second frame row of beams is attached in a horizontal direction. Mineral wool slabs are installed in the gaps between them. In this case, the upper slabs must overlap the joints of the underlying layer. The second layer of heat insulation is also strengthened with anchors. In addition, the densely elastic structure of the fiber boards itself contributes to a fairly reliable installation of the material between the sheathing beams.

A diffusion membrane is fixed to the surface of the insulation, permeable from inside for steam and air, but completely closed from the outside to wind and external moisture. This layer will perfectly protect the insulator and the wood underneath from adverse weather conditions.

Thermal insulation in regions with high humidity would be properly supplemented with a vapor barrier film. In this case, the vapor barrier is installed directly on the surface of the wooden beams of the wall.

Ventilation layer and finishing

Frame for exterior finishing must be fixed so that there is an air gap between the finishing layer and the heat insulator for ventilation of water vapor. After all, external moisture will inevitably condense on the surface of the insulation, which should be able to evaporate.

External facade finishing is mounted on the frame. This can be lining, siding or panels made of polymers. You can decorate the building with a block house - a polymer that imitates wood with its texture and pattern. It is important to prevent heat loss through other areas - roof, floor, foundation, windows, doors.

Attic, doors and windows

The technology for insulating the attic of a wooden house is as follows:

• on false ceiling a vapor barrier layer is laid in the attic;
• insulation is laid on top - mineral wool or expanded polystyrene;
• A layer of waterproofing is laid on the insulator and a sheathing of boards is installed.

The ideal option for installing doors and windows is the use of two-chamber metal-plastic or wooden double glazed windows and double doors, as well as the mandatory presence of an entrance vestibule. Finally, before choosing a method of thermal insulation for a log house, it would be correct to make sure that such a procedure is necessary in principle.

Houses made of timber are warm, comfortable and energy efficient. They quickly heat up and retain heat, however, despite this, effective thermal insulation is an important issue that faces the home owner. Why do you need to insulate a house made of 150x150 timber and how to do it? Let's consider all the options for thermal insulation of a timber cottage outside and inside.

Why insulate a house made of timber?

Construction timber houses in Russia has centuries-old history. These buildings were rightfully considered the warmest and most comfortable. For another 30-40 years, such houses were built only from natural timber in the form of round or semicircular logs. The thickness of the timber reached 30 cm, and given that dry wood has excellent thermal insulation parameters, it becomes clear why timber buildings were not insulated.

The main heat losses of a house made of timber

Today, 150x150 material is used to build a house from timber. Such houses are environmentally friendly and comfortable, but their heat-retaining properties leave much to be desired. Proper insulation inside and out will help correct the situation and make the house warm.

Thermal insulation of a timber house from the inside

In central Russia and southern regions a house made of 150x150 timber, which has not been insulated, as a rule, does not freeze. But living in such a house is uncomfortable. It is also worth noting that over time the structure shrinks, cracks and cracks appear in the structure, as a result of which heat loss increases many times over. Internal insulation of a house made of timber can be carried out using various materials, which can simultaneously serve as finishing. Such heat insulating materials include cork insulation, “ warm plaster"etc.

Internal insulation has some disadvantages:

• loss of usable area due to the installation of insulation;
• a layer of thermal insulation hides the wooden walls;
• formation of condensation in the house due to changes in dew point;
• mold formation and wood rotting.

Internal wall insulation with mineral wool

For these reasons, owners prefer to insulate houses from 150x150 timber on the outside. Thermal insulation can be provided for by the project and carried out immediately after the construction of the house. You can also insulate a cottage or country house that has been in use for a long time.

Inter-crown thermal insulation

Insulation of a house made of timber begins during the construction process, when inter-crown insulation is laid between the wood. 1-3 years after the structure shrinks, the walls of the cottage need caulking. Natural eco-friendly materials are used as interventional thermal insulation:

Moss. It has a thermal conductivity coefficient of up to 0.045 W/(m C), has aseptic properties, allows walls to “breathe” and protects wood from moisture and rot.

Hemp and flax tow. Thermal conductivity parameter up to 0.049 W/(m C). The material is resistant to moisture and provides reliable caulking of cracks and cracks.

Jute. Jute insulation is available in the form of strips. It is convenient to use, but the cost of jute is much more expensive than other materials for inter-crown insulation.

Jute - interventional insulation

Thermal insulation between the rims is installed using a special technology using thin blades and spatulas. This is a labor-intensive process, but without high-quality caulking of the walls, you cannot begin external insulation.

Selection of external insulation

Insulating a house made of 150x150 timber from the outside has the following advantages:

• creating a comfortable microclimate in the cottage;
• no accumulation of moisture and condensation;
• does not decrease effective area;
• the walls are ventilated, the house “breathes.”

When choosing a material for external thermal insulation of a timber structure, it is necessary to give preference to insulation with good heat-retaining properties, durable, moisture-resistant, and with a long service life.

The most popular insulation materials for timber houses are:

Mineral (stone) wool

Thermal insulators based on mineral wool and basalt fraction have excellent heat saving characteristics and an affordable price. The advantages of mineral wool also include:

• environmentally friendly, the material does not contain resins and toxins;
• fire safety, mineral wool does not support combustion;
• breathability, the walls of the house “breathe”, condensation does not form;
• a wide range of insulation materials, mineral wool is produced in slabs and rolls of different thicknesses.

Insulation of walls with mineral wool

A significant disadvantage of mineral wool is its high water absorption. Insulation absorbs moisture and loses its thermal insulation properties over time. Mineral wool can be used for thermal insulation of the roof and walls of a house made of 150x150 timber when creating an effective water barrier.

Polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam

Polymer-based synthetic materials with excellent heat-saving characteristics and minimal hygroscopicity. Foam plastics and EPS have the following advantages:

• light weight, insulation does not load the structure;
• minimal water absorption;
• low cost.

Numerous disadvantages of synthetic insulation do not allow their use for thermal insulation of the walls of log cottages:

• low environmental friendliness;
• flammability and release of toxins during combustion;
• Some types of insulation are a habitat for rodents.

Thermal insulation of the foundation and blind area

Foam and extruded polystyrene foam slabs for timber houses 150x150 are used for thermal insulation of the floors of the first floor, basement and foundation. When insulating these structures, environmental parameters are unimportant, but low hygroscopicity (less than 0.05%) is very important.

Sprayed polyurethane foam (PPU)

Liquid polyurethane foam insulation is sprayed onto the heat-insulated surface using special generators. The insulation forms a dense porous shell without seams or joints, which does not absorb moisture and allows air to pass through well. The thermal insulation qualities of polyurethane foam are superior the best insulation materials- mineral wool and polystyrene foam. In this case, the polyurethane foam layer does not exceed 3-5 cm. Sprayed thermal insulation can be used for all structures: foundation, walls, basement, roofing, floors. Polyurethane foam is used for insulation outside and inside the house.

Advantages of PPU thermal insulation for a house made of timber:

• absence of harmful toxins, chemical neutrality;
• do not change the basic properties of wood;
• low flammability and fire safety;
• reliable insulation of inter-crown seams and sealing of cracks;
• excellent adhesion to wood and other materials;
• protection of timber from rotting.

The disadvantage of polyurethane foam is its high cost, so they prefer to combine it with other types of thermal insulation.

How is a house made of timber insulated?

Regardless of the chosen thermal insulation material, a house made of 150x150 timber and buildings made of wood of other sizes must be prepared for insulation. Preparation consists of eliminating cracks and treating the timber with an antiseptic, fire and bioprotection. For older houses, additional fastening and strengthening of windows and doorways is carried out.

Insulation of a house made of timber from the outside

Installation of the heat insulator on the walls is carried out as follows:

The sheathing is attached to the prepared and treated wall - bars 20x20 or 15x15 mm. The sheathing is fastened using self-tapping screws or nails. The pitch of the sheathing is 0.5-0.7 m. A vapor barrier, for example isospan, is laid under the sheathing. The film is laid overlapping and secured with lathing.

Installation of thermal insulation is carried out on the finished sheathing. The insulation is placed between the studs of the second tier and attached to the wall using self-tapping screws. Additionally, it is recommended to use glue for exterior work, which is used to coat the insulation board.

Installation of wind protection. The windproof film is laid on the thermal insulation and secured with wooden battens, which replace the reinforcing mesh used to insulate stone houses.

Installation of cladding. As finishing timber houses can be used various materials: block house, lining, facade slabs, thermal panels, etc. The choice of materials for external cladding depends on the preferences and financial capabilities of the owner.

Features of insulation of individual elements of timber houses

Thermal insulation of floors is performed with PSB-35 foam plastic. Pre-lined on the joists waterproofing film. A cement-sand screed is placed on top of the insulation and the selected floor covering is laid. When installing a “warm floor” system, PE pipes are installed in the screed according to the selected scheme.

1st floor floor insulation EPPS

The roof of a house made of 150x150 timber is insulated with mineral wool slabs, which are attached between the rafters. On the roof side, the thermal insulation is covered with a membrane, and on the inside - with a waterproofing film.

If the house has 2 floors or a heated attic, then it is necessary to insulate interfloor ceilings. For this, vapor barrier films are used, on which bulk insulation is poured into the interfloor space or rolled mineral wool is laid.

Insulation of the 2nd floor floor with mineral wool

The foundation, basement and plinth are insulated with foam plastic by gluing and fastening the slabs to vertical surfaces. It is best to insulate the base immediately after laying it and waterproofing it.

Heat saving in a timber house

In addition to internal and external insulation, a house made of timber must meet the principles of energy efficiency. Energy efficiency elements are incorporated into the structure of a log house at the design stage. The most popular and inexpensive energy-efficient solutions:

1. Solar pipes. Pipes with a diameter of 30-50 cm are located on the roof and receive solar heat, which is directed inside the house using a set of mirrors. Sunlight is scattered inside the room, illuminating and heating.
2. Energy saving windows. The most heat-retaining ones are low-emission double-glazed windows, which allow short periods of time to pass into the room. Sun rays and not releasing long-wave radiation emitted by heating devices.
3. Recuperation ventilation. Built into a natural or supply ventilation heat exchanger that stops the leakage of warm air.

Energy saving in a house made of timber 150x150

Competent and effective insulation and the introduction of energy-saving technologies will make a house made of 150x150 timber not only comfortable for year-round living, but will also reduce heating costs. Trust the development of insulation projects and installation of thermal insulation better for professionals who will conduct a thermal calculation and determine the required thickness of the insulation, install it and provide a guarantee for thermal insulation work.

Content

The construction of private houses from profiled timber, regular or glued, is popular due to the affordable cost of the material and the ability to install the log house yourself. But the question of thermal insulation of the building arises if you are going to live in the house all year round. If the thickness of the timber is less than 200 mm, heating a house without insulation will require increased costs in regions with cold winters, since the walls will freeze. Let's figure out how to insulate a house made of timber from the outside by choosing a heat insulator with suitable properties.

Internal or external insulation?

Home for winter accommodation, assembled from timber, it is recommended to insulate it regardless of the thickness of the walls. This is due to the installation technology - the corners are mounted “without residue”, and this design is prone to increased heat loss. The freezing corners of the house become damp, the wood begins to rot and over time the wooden frame collapses.

You can separately decide how to insulate the corners of the building from the outside, using a heat insulator and installing sheathing from wide boards. But such partial insulation is not effective enough and does not decorate the house.

Thermal insulation of a house made of timber from the outside

When figuring out how to insulate a house made of timber, you should pay attention to the key advantages of external insulation over internal insulation:

1. Installation of internal insulation leads to a shift in the dew point inside the wall structures. This means that condensation occurs at the border between heat and cold and this occurs in a wooden wall. The result is gradual destruction of wood due to constant high humidity.
2. Thermal insulator, fixed to the walls indoors, is either vapor-tight (slab or roll material made of foamed polymer, including foil), or absorbs moisture, losing thermal insulation properties, and therefore requires high-quality vapor barrier ( basalt wool, glass wool). In both cases, the internal insulation system completely deprives the home of all the advantages of building from natural wood and requires the installation of high-quality ventilation to remove steam.

So, to the question of which side is it better to insulate walls, the answer is simple. Wooden beams are a breathable material, which is detrimental to constant humidity, so installing a heat insulator from the inside is impractical, not to mention the fact that this will noticeably reduce the area of ​​the premises.

The advantages of installing a thermal insulation layer on the facade of a wooden house made of timber include::

• formation of a dew point outside the walls made of timber - they will be protected from freezing and dampness during the cold season;
• carrying out work without interference interior decoration(you can leave the walls in the rooms wooden, without attaching additional cladding);
• opportunity to provide natural circulation air through the walls, which contributes to a favorable microclimate in a wooden house (but provided that a suitable method of installing the heat insulator is chosen);
• reliable protection of walls from atmospheric influences.

Insulating a timber house from the outside is not without some disadvantages, which include::

• linking the work to the season and weather conditions (preparing walls and installing thermal insulation in warm, dry weather);
• the difficulty of carrying out work at height outside with your own hands, the need to erect reliable scaffolding;
• the need to equip the external cladding of the house (cladding with siding, block house, etc.).

Thermal insulation of external walls of a house with mineral wool

Preparing the walls

Before insulating a log house, you need to properly prepare wooden structures. To do this, carefully inspect the walls of the building from the outside to identify possible areas of rot, gaps between the beams, and deep cracks in the cracked timber.

Note! Insulation of a house made of timber from the outside must be done only a year and a half after the construction of a log house made of solid timber, since such a structure is prone to shrinkage. At the same time, insulation of a house made of laminated veneer lumber can be done immediately after construction, since the material, consisting of lamellas made of dried wood glued together, practically does not change its geometric dimensions.

At the stage of preparing the walls, it is necessary to carefully treat the wooden structures - soak them with antiseptic agents. This will help protect the wood from rotting, damage by insects and microorganisms, and will extend the life of the house. It is recommended to carry out treatment with impregnating compounds in two passes, with intermediate drying.

If, upon inspection of the facade, serious cracks and gaps between the crowns are revealed, they must be caulked. You can use the same type of insulation as when assembling the log house, or another natural material - jute, tow, flax wool.

Installation features

The insulation technology primarily depends on the selected heat insulator. If a rolled or slab material is chosen, then the ventilated facade for a house made of timber in the form of a multilayer system is equipped with ventilation gaps. In the case of using sprayed materials, the technology is simplified.

Spray insulation

Sprayed polyurethane foam and ecowool are applied directly to the walls, which does not allow ventilation gap between the wooden structure and the heat insulator. In the case of ecowool, this is not important - such insulation is vapor permeable. But if the outside of the house is covered with a layer of polyurethane foam under the siding, the walls stop “breathing”, and you need to be very careful about arranging ventilation in order to avoid dampness in the rooms and the appearance of mold.

Thermal insulation of external walls with sprayed polyurethane foam

Before spraying the material, the walls are cleaned and vertical lathing is stuffed onto them, forming cells for filling with heat insulator. The size of the slats is selected in accordance with the calculated thickness of the thermal insulation layer.

Using special equipment, polyurethane foam is sprayed into open cells, and in the case of using ecowool, the technology depends on the thickness of the layer. If the size exceeds 70 mm, a vapor-permeable windproof membrane is attached to the sheathing. Holes are made in it (one per cell), through which the gaps between the slats are filled. The holes are sealed hermetically.

A windproof film is installed on top of the polyurethane foam layer, as well as ecowool applied using the open method, a counter-lattice is filled and secured external finishing. If it is made of wood, the counter-lattice will provide a ventilation gap to prevent rotting of the material.

Arrangement of a traditional ventilated façade

If there is a task to preserve the unique microclimate of a wooden building, it is important to figure out how to properly insulate a house made of timber from the outside. When thermally insulating external walls, the provision of a ventilation gap between the wooden wall structure and the insulation is often neglected. This leads to wooden house it does not remove excess moisture through the walls and the wood accumulates moisture. The result is the development of mold, rotting of the walls of the house.

To avoid negative consequences, you cannot install polymer insulation materials or a vapor barrier membrane for a mineral wool heat insulator directly on the wall.

Thermal insulation diagram of a timber house from the outside

First stage. For proper insulation houses made of timber, first of all, vertical sheathing of edged boards 40–50 mm thick. A vapor barrier is attached to it. The resulting gap allows air to circulate, removing excess moisture. It is necessary to leave a ventilation gap at the top, covering it with a canopy made of wooden slats to prevent the penetration of precipitation.

It is recommended to level the sheathing to a strictly vertical plane to make it easier to insulate a log house from the outside. All lumber used in the “pie” is pre-treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant.

Second phase. During the insulation of a log house, sheathing slats are attached to the boards of the installed sheathing. slab insulation. The width of the slats must correspond to the thickness of the heat insulator. The end posts should be at the corner of the wall. The installation step depends on what material it was decided to insulate the house with:

• if it is polystyrene foam or sheet extruded polystyrene foam, then the gap between the slats should be equal to the width of the sheet;
• if the building is thermally insulated from the outside with mineral wool, then the gap should be 10–15 mm less than the width of the slab material.

Third stage. Thermal insulation of walls from the outside requires proper installation of insulation:

• polymer boards are inserted into the cells, all joints are filled with polyurethane foam;
• slabs from stone wool mounted by surprise.

Additional insulation of corners is usually not done, but when installing heat insulation along the edges of the walls, it is necessary to ensure that cold bridges do not arise.

Fourth stage. A windproof film is attached over the sheathing. If the heat insulator is polymer material, you can use regular film, but it is better if it is a material that protects from UV rays. When insulating the walls of a log house with a fibrous heat insulator (mineral wool), it is recommended to use membranes that allow steam to escape but do not allow moisture to enter.

Fifth stage. The facade finishing can be done using siding, lining, block house and other materials that are relatively light in weight. The walls should be sheathed using 40mm thick counter battens on top of the wind barrier. This will provide ventilation to the system.

Choosing a heat insulator

To know how to insulate a house made of timber from the outside, you need to decide on the type of insulation. The functional properties of heat insulators, their cost and installation complexity are assessed.

Mineral wool

Insulating a house with mineral wool from the outside has a number of advantages: high thermal insulation and sound insulation properties, non-flammability, environmental safety, simple installation. The material is gas-permeable if used to insulate a house made of timber, complete with membranes - vapor barrier and windproof. This allows the walls to “breathe”.

The disadvantage of mineral wool is its hygroscopicity. When moisture accumulates, the thermal insulation properties decrease sharply. It should be noted that the cost of the material and membranes is quite high. An attempt to reduce the cost of insulating a façade with mineral wool by using conventional film will reduce the service life of the house and worsen the indoor microclimate.

Thermal insulation of the house facade with mineral wool

Styrofoam

The advantages include affordable cost and high thermal insulation qualities (with a density of at least 35 kg/m3), simple installation, low weight, and hydrophobicity.

Disadvantages: flammability, destruction by ultraviolet radiation and damage by rodents. The material is gas-tight and if the cheapest material is installed incorrectly, the walls of a wooden building will not “breathe”.

Thermal insulation of a log house with foam plastic

Extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex)

Insulating the walls from the outside with polystyrene foam will reliably protect structures from freezing. At the same time, the material has a low tendency to fire and is not damaged by rodents.

Thermal insulation from the outside with penoplex will cost more than when using polystyrene foam, but the problems remain the same - impaired air exchange in insulated structures if the material is glued directly to the walls.

Thermal insulation of the facade with penoplex

Foamed polyethylene

Polyethylene, foamed under high or low pressure, may have a foil surface on one or both sides. Thin rolled material is characterized by high thermal insulation properties.

Using it for external insulation, you can save on vapor barrier and wind protection - foamed polyethylene does not need them. The rolled material is mounted as a continuous sheet on top of the sheathing, stuffed to create a ventilation gap. The joints of the strips are taped with aluminum tape. Then a counter-lattice is attached to cover the walls with siding or decorative panels.

Thermal insulation of the external walls of the house with polyethylene

Sprayed polyurethane foam

The main advantage of sprayed polyurethane foam is the ability to create a seamless thermal insulation layer on surfaces of any configuration. The material is durable and environmentally friendly.

But with such external thermal insulation, wooden structures are susceptible to rotting, since the insulation does not allow steam to pass through, and it is impossible to create a ventilation gap.

Thermal insulation of the house facade with polyurethane foam

Ecowool

A good option for insulating the facade. The material is fire resistant, environmentally friendly, and vapor permeable. Such thermal insulation does not disturb the microclimate in a wooden house.

There are only two disadvantages to note: high cost and the need to use professional equipment for proper installation.

Thermal insulation of the walls of a log house with ecowool

Conclusion

In order for the building to last for a long time, it is important to choose the right way to insulate the house and follow the installation technology. Without insulation, a timber building has high heat loss and is difficult to heat well. When considering the best way to insulate a house made of timber from the outside, opt for an insulation scheme that will allow the wooden house to “breathe.”

Houses made of timber, due to their environmental friendliness, are a popular option for private construction. But although they heat up quickly enough and have good thermal insulation properties, insulating a log house is an urgent need for most households.

Installation of insulation on the walls of a house made of timber Source nd-prime.by

Differences between old and new technologies

Wooden construction in Rus' is a centuries-old tradition. For centuries, houses were built exclusively from log houses, from massive round and semicircular logs, the thickness of which was sufficient for good thermal insulation. Just like today, the tree dried out over time, and cracks appeared between the logs. But earlier there were other ideas about the beauty of the facade, so ordinary wood moss was used to caulk cracks. It landed in the cracks between the logs and over time reliably filled the entire space between them.

IN modern construction issues of economy come to the fore and force the use of timber, the thickness of which does not always meet the requirements of the developed standards. If the cross-section is insufficient, complete freezing occurs in winter, which means that the walls of the house are not able to retain heat. In addition, over time, the wood begins to dry out, causing heat loss to increase even more.

This is what a timber wall looks like after the wood has dried Source bredmozga.ru

Advantages and disadvantages of wall insulation in a log house

Thrifty owners are looking for ways to properly insulate a house made of timber so that they can spend less funds for heating. This can be done in two main ways: from the inside and from the outside, and external insulation is preferable for a number of reasons.

Features of insulation from the inside

With internal insulation, the positive effect of heat saving is offset by the disadvantages:

• Part of the usable area is inevitably lost due to the installation of a frame under the insulation.
• The thermal insulation layer hides the “living” wooden walls and the rooms lose their unique charm.
• Due to external winter cooling, unprotected wooden wall the dew point shifts into the internal insulation. Condensation occurs, mold appears, and it is difficult to control the condition of the wood.

Video description

What happens to the wall if the insulation is not properly insulated from the inside - in the video:

Insulation of walls from the outside: advantages and disadvantages of the method

Most often they resort to it, meaning obvious advantages compared to internal insulation:

• The usable area of ​​the internal space is preserved;
• External works do not change the family's daily routine.
• The facade of the house is reliably protected from sudden temperature changes, which extends the life of the building.
• Correct selection materials do not disturb the microclimate of the rooms (the house “breathes”).

• You can design the façade to your liking or improve it appearance if the wood has darkened over time.
• If the technology is followed, the wood will be additionally protected from damage.
• Ease of monitoring the work of the construction team.

Main disadvantage external insulation - the need to carry it out in good weather - in cold and damp weather there is no point in doing this.

Three main insulation methods

Any insulation of walls involves attaching a layer of insulation and structures holding it to it. Several methods have been developed for this purpose and each of them has its own advantages and implementation features.

The principle of wall insulation is the creation of an additional protective “pie” Source lestorg32.ru

Hinged ventilated facade

This technology itself was developed as a decoration for the facade of a house, but since the installation procedure involves attaching a layer of mineral wool or a similar material to the wall, this method can be considered as insulation.

Advantages of using ventilated facades:

• Long service life (up to 50 years), excellent heat and sound insulation.
• Easy to install.
• Wide selection of facing materials in various colors.
• The dew point moves outward.

Installation technology:

• Pre-treatment of lumber is carried out with compounds that prevent rotting and make the tree unattractive to insects.
• A sheathing is attached to the outside of the house, onto which a sheet of hydro- and wind protection is placed. Air circulates freely in the space between the sheathing slats, due to which condensation or moisture that appears in other ways will be removed from the insulation.
• The sheathing is leveled with a plumb level.
• Next, slats are placed on the sheathing, the distance between which should correspond to the width of the heat insulator. The height of the slats is selected accordingly - for middle zone In Russia it is recommended to use insulation with a thickness of at least 70 mm.

A feature of the ventilated façade is that a gap is left between the insulation and the cladding Source builderclub.com

• Insulation mats are placed between the slats, secured with dowels.
• Then bars with a thickness of at least 5 cm are additionally stuffed onto the slats so that there is always a gap between the insulation and the cladding.
• Cladding (siding) is installed.

Laying insulation under siding.

There are practically no fundamental differences from the previous technology - insulation is also used here and is also used outside decorative coating. But if the very name of the ventilated facade indicates the place of its use, then in any case the entire house is covered with siding.

Installation nuances taking into account the selected material:

• The distance between the slats is set equal to the width of the mat if foam or sheet extruded polystyrene foam is selected.
• The distance between the slats is set to 10–15 mm less than the width of the mat if mineral wool is used. This must be taken into account when calculating the amount of mineral wool.
• According to the technology, wool slabs are mounted by surprise; polymer slabs are placed in cells, the joints are treated with polyurethane foam.
• When using mineral wool, a waterproofing layer (diffuse membrane) is additionally installed on top. It is not needed when using fiberglass or polystyrene.

Covering a log house with siding Source stroyfora.ru

Polyurethane foam spraying method

The principle of this technology is clear to anyone who has seen how they work with polyurethane foam. The difference here is that the volumes of material required to create a thermal insulation cushion are much larger, therefore, for processing polyurethane foam, a spray gun using compressed air from the compressor. Advantages of the technology:

• Easy to use and high speed application of thermal insulation mixture on large surfaces.
• Excellent adhesion (cohesion) with most building materials, long-term preservation of properties.
• Environmental friendliness, fire resistance and protection against rotting of the treated surface.

Spraying of insulation can be done on any prepared surface Source keeninsulation.com

Types of insulation

The choice of insulation for outdoor work is quite wide and each of them has distinctive features, which must be taken into account when choosing:

Mineral wool

Available in three varieties - stone (basalt), glass and slag. All have similar properties: fire-resistant, non-flammable, chemical and biological resistance. Other advantages of the material include vapor permeability, environmental friendliness and high sound insulation.

The downside is that cotton wool attracts rodents and does not dry completely when wet.

It all depends on the skills of the builders, but usually insulating the outside of a house with mineral wool is easier to do using mats than rolls - the latter are not always convenient to deploy on vertical walls.

Laying mineral wool slabs in lathing Source remontik.org

Slab styrenes (foam plastic, polyurethane foam)

Foam plastic is the most cheap option, lightweight and porous, with low hygroscopicity and excellent thermal insulation. The main disadvantages are considered to be flammability (releases toxins when burned), fragility and instability when exposed to ultraviolet radiation.

Video description

In this video we will take a closer look at insulating a house with polystyrene foam. How safe is polystyrene foam?:

Extruded polystyrene foam

It has a special porous structure and tolerates well low temperatures and unsuitable for microorganisms. The material is durable, easy to install (slabs), and does not absorb water. Disadvantages: Highly flammable and releases harmful toxins.

Polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam are similar in appearance Source lineyka.net

Ecological sprayed styrene (ecowool and polyurethane foam)

Such insulation materials are expensive due to the method of application; To process large surfaces, special installation and operational experience are required. For small areas of complex shape (cracks near pipes, windows, between slabs), polyurethane insulation in cylinders is offered.

"Warm" plaster

A mixture of light granules of complex composition (glass, cement and hydrophobic additives), which is not flammable, is not afraid of ultraviolet radiation, protects the facade well from moisture and is easy to repair.

Subtleties of insulating timber walls

Insulating a log house from the outside under siding cannot be started whenever you want - before this, the following conditions must be met:

• Work on installing insulation can begin only after the log frame has completely shrunk - often this period can be one and a half to two years.
• It is prohibited to carry out work if the façade has not been treated with an antiseptic. Ignoring this rule will lead to the appearance of fungus and rot.
• Before insulating a house made of timber from the outside, it is necessary to prepare the facade: seal not only wide cracks, but also small cracks. To do this, you can use putty, polyurethane foam or similar materials.
• Good thermal insulation of a timber house requires careful selection of material and calculation of its quantity. It should be taken into account how thermal insulation material will be combined with the wood of the timber itself.
• To choose the right insulation, you need to take into account the size of the building, the quality of the frame and seams.

Some insulation is installed without lathing Source obustroen.ru

Tools and materials for thermal insulation of buildings

To insulate a house without being distracted by searching for tools and materials, builders need to prepare the following:

• bubble or laser building level, you can also use a plumb line;
• tape measure, square or metal ruler;
• hammer, construction knife or hacksaw, screwdriver;
• facade dowels, tape, chalk, polyurethane foam, antiseptic;
• dry slats, insulation;
• vapor and waterproofing film;
• material for final cladding.
• sprayer for treating wood with protective compounds

Treating a wooden wall with an antiseptic Source mybesedka.ru

On our website you can find a list of companies providing home insulation services, among the houses presented at the exhibition is Low-Rise Country.

General progress of thermal insulation installation

All steps for insulating a house made of timber using any of the described methods are always schematically the same and are performed in the following sequence:

• to ventilate the first layer of insulation, a sheathing of wooden planks is mounted on the wall;
• a frame is placed on the sheathing to fix the insulating material
• installation of insulation;
• installation of additional sheathing and frame (if double insulation is used);
• laying an additional layer of heat insulation;
• fastening a diffusion membrane, which will provide water and wind protection.
• installation facade finishing(lining, siding) with an air gap.

Of course, in the end, insulation will hide the beauty natural material, but the solution here may be to decorate the house with a block house.

In general, the insulation of a house made of timber, carried out according to the rules, will make it possible to save on heating in the future. Despite the apparent simplicity of the entire process, there are quite a large number of pitfalls that will definitely come out during installation. As a result, if you do not have the proper qualifications, then it is better to order the work to be carried out by professionals, because supervising the construction site is much more pleasant than climbing the walls yourself.